Hello all,
The photo section only has 30 Mb of storage and was full up. On
checking the SM 319 album I found that we had uploaded five pics
without reducing them to Email or low quality size. Thus each one was
taking up between one and two megabytes of storage instead of between
thirty to 80 kilobytes. We have now reduced them and so there is now a
lot of vacant storage.
From a quick scan through the albums it appears that the only other
"offender" is Eric with his recent additions.

Happy Christmas to all, Anne and John SM319

I have posted a pix of a toolbox i made in the hanging locker and a
electricam monitor panel that i installed in Kimberlite.Look in
Kimberlite photo album
due to the size limit of the photo album i can not post any other
interesting photos.
fair winds,
eric

dimitris,
thank you for the photos.
do you have any more photos of this setup?
how does the staysail stay get tightened?
how does the halyard work?
fair winds,
eric



--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Dimitris" <dkra@o...> wrote:

Dear All,

As I see a lot of messages regarding staysail attachment etc. I
uploaded today two files showing the stay sail attachment to the

boat

and to the mast. Gateff is offering a complete solution without
hurting the mast. The total price should be around 10.000 Us Dollars
FOB France.

Best Regards

Dimitris
S/Y Alma Libre
www.Almalibre.gr

Hi Patrick

My fridge needed new seals. Very cheap and easy. Also the compressor
was flashing a red lamp which indicated that voltage was below 10.8V,
which caused the fridge to cut out intermittently, causing lots of
dripping and rot in the sub-floor. A meter indicated that there was
plenty of voltage available so I put it down to voltage drop and
renewed the cabling (which needs to include the whole circuit from
and right back to the batteries. Also quite easy, but cutting out and
replacing rotten wood! Multi-cause problems are always a bit harder
to figure.

Regards, Roger, Mango 28, Zorba

22 Dec 2005

Hi Patrick:

I had a similar problem (hull #335) since the boat was new in 2001.
I had Amel trouble shoot it in La Rochelle and Guadaloupe without
success. We periodically had water in the bilge area under the
companionway. I originally thought it was from condensation on the
coils at the bottom of the fridge because there was always a lot of
frost on those coils when we were in the Caribbean. I had a
refrigeration expert wrap them with insulation to solve that problem
yet the water continued. There is a drain in the bottom of the
fridge (a small white plastic plug centered in the bottom stainless
tray of the fridge that connects to a drain that runs out the back of
the fridge) but also the bottom stainless pan in the fridge isn't
sealed around the edges. Water came from either of those two
sources. The drain hole in the bottom of the fridge went to a small
nipple on the back of the fridge (similar to the once from the
freezer compartment hose that you already checked) but my nipple had
no hose on it and just emptied onto the floor behind the fridge
whereupon it ran into the bilge area beneath the steps to the
cockpit. We finally traced this due to an odor problem. I used 3M
5200 and layed a bead of sealant along all seams in the panels in the
bottom of the fridge as well as sealing the drain plug shut. No
problems since then. Use some masking tape to mask straight lines
along the parting seams in the corners where you lay the bead of 5200
as it will run and be a cosmetic nightmare otherwise. I believe the
main source was the drain without a hose attached. Why Amel didn't T
that drain into the drain line from the freezer compartment area is a
mystery to me. I chalked it up to a production error.

Regards, Gary Amel SM2000 s/v Liahona

I had the same problem with fridge, and it has be resolved by AMEL cleaning the small pipe blowing in it.

JOSE SM 426 SYLVIA IV

thanks for the advice on the gen set, I will start checking
connections again. On a different tack, my fridge is somehow
generating water/condensation? which in turn is flowing into the
bilge. I am presently in the caribbean so ambient temp may be an
issue. Has any else had a similar problem, I checked the small pipe
which collects water from under the ice box tray and it seems fine
Thanks in advance Patrick sm 385

Dear All,

As I see a lot of messages regarding staysail attachment etc. I
uploaded today two files showing the stay sail attachment to the boat
and to the mast. Gateff is offering a complete solution without
hurting the mast. The total price should be around 10.000 Us Dollars
FOB France.

Best Regards

Dimitris
S/Y Alma Libre
www.Almalibre.gr

John,
I was looking to add an inner forestay lower than the top of the mast, thus
the need for runners. I thank you for the info about the front section of
the mast. I have a drawing of the extrusion from amel. My problem is the
runners.
Attached please find a fitting that I used on my previous boat and plan on
using on Kimberlite for the mast attachment of the stay. It allows for the
stay and an external block for the halyard.
Fair Winds, Eric
Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

Hi Eric,
I think you are wrong about the mast. The section consists of two
parallel sides with half circles joining them at the front and back.
The back one is in fact a complete circle with a slot for the main
sail to use. This means that there is a space in front of the furling
circle into which halyard boxes are fitted and the halyards run.
When fitting a new halyard box it should be secured using machine
screws of the minimum length to avoid the ends chafing the halyards
which will be passing it.
I do not under stand the reference to runners as these are not
necessary if the head of the inner forestay is only two feet or so
from the top of the mast.

Regards, John SM 319

Judy,
I have fitted an inner forestay to my previous boat. The problem I am having
is that any fasteners that would be added to the mast for runners or the
forestay mast fitting would penetrate the mast and tear up the main sail.
Fair Winds,

Eric
Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

John,

Please do post your experiences of South Pacific.

FYI to others researching the removable inner forestay, you might find info
Googling under term "solent stay."

Judy
SM #387

Hi Eric,
No I have not fitted an inner forestay but I probably would have done
so if I was going blue water cruising again. Unfortunately I am now
too old to sail back to the South Pacific.
If the fixing point for the top of the forestay is close, say two or
three feet down from the truck, then runners are not needed. This is
what Oyster called a slutter rig. I made the bottom of the inner stay
removable so that could be brought back to the mast where it was not
in the way when tacking. Obviously we rigged the stay for long
passages.
Am I right in thinking that you are about to cross the Pacific because
if you are and you would like a few tips I will be happy to post some
of my experiences.

Regards, John SM 319

John,
Have you added a inner forestay to your amel?
I read your post and it seems to be about your previous boat. I have added
an inner forestay to my previous boat also. My problem is with the roller
furling main I do not know how to affix the running backstays or the fitting
on the mast for a stay. Adding a knee and bracing for the tack of the stay
is easy.
Fair winds,
Eric

In a message dated 19/12/2005 14:26:16 GMT Standard Time,
pjn.mccallin@jerseymail.co.uk writes:

can anyone assist please, after only 450 hours use, the gen set is
becoming difficult to start. On pressing the start button there are
lots of clicks from the various relays and the fuel pump but nothing
happens, no cranking,nada. Repeat the process and it will start up
after say four or five presses of the button. Have checked all battery
leads starter connections am now stumped and wonder if a similar
problem has been encountered. Thanks in advance Patrick CARAMELLE.




duff water pump impellor?

regards

David

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "caramel02uk"
<pjn.mccallin@j...> wrote:

can anyone assist please, after only 450 hours use, the gen set is
becoming difficult to start. On pressing the start button there

are

lots of clicks from the various relays and the fuel pump but

nothing

happens, no cranking,nada. Repeat the process and it will start up
after say four or five presses of the button. Have checked all

battery

leads starter connections am now stumped and wonder if a similar
problem has been encountered. Thanks in advance Patrick CARAMELLE.

Amel has taken the prevention on galvanic action one step beyond any
other boat mfg. They not only have an interrupt solenoid in the
positive circuit for the motor but they also have one on the
negative circuit. When the start button is pushed both of these
solenoids must engage at the same time for the motor to start. The
cause of your problem is almost assuredly because the negative
solenoid is sticking. The good news is, it's easy to get to and
short stop around. It is in plain sight on the port side of the
engine, a cylinder shape about 1.25" dia. X 6" long, with a rubber
push button on either the top or the bottom depending on how it was
mounted. It has been mounted in various positions in an attempt to
lessen this probability of it's sticking. The next time this
happens, have one person hold down the rubber push button on the
solenoid while a second person pushes the start button. That's it.
You obviously could short across the terminals as a permanent fix
but I would not recommend this, I think the second interrupt is a
good idea when it works. I found that the sticking problem occurred
when the engine was fairly hot after an extended run and not given
enough idle time to cool down before shutting it off..

Hope this helps.

Ken Burnap
s/v Notre Vie

19 Dec 2005

Dessalator's quote to me for retrofit of the automatic fresh water system for the watermaker
is for 978.43 Euros (excluding shipping etc). Date of Quote was 29 Nov 2005.

From Dessalator, the auto flush, "..... for an automated rinsing that functions thanks to a
pressure captor and new genergation of electronic controller. This flush works automatically
as soon as you reduce the pressure to 30 bars and stops after two minutes." "We can do this
installation for you: we need your control panel, your doble (sic) prefilter, and your electornic
controller bak in our workshop to mount this sytem. Whit this new flushing syste you gain by
the pressure captor which asl looks after the lack of water, which will prevent the o'rings of
the pump, pre pump and high pressure pumpf from burning".

I confirmed with Rod Boreham that this system only works as the pressure falls when shutting
down the system following a session of water making. There are no provisions for
automating a fresh water flush every so many days etc., while the boat is layed up or un-
occupied.

Gary Silver Amel SM2000 Hull # 335 s/v Liahona

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "caramel02uk"
<pjn.mccallin@j...> wrote:

can anyone assist please, after only 450 hours use, the gen set is
becoming difficult to start. On pressing the start button there are
lots of clicks from the various relays and the fuel pump but nothing
happens, no cranking,nada. Repeat the process and it will start up
after say four or five presses of the button. Have checked all

battery

leads starter connections am now stumped and wonder if a similar
problem has been encountered. Thanks in advance Patrick CARAMELLE.

I had trouble starting and found that one of the push on connections
was loose giving intermittent starting. So far as I remember it was
one of the leads in the area of the fuel pump. The symptom was that
the fuel cut off soleniod was not being energised and therefore the
red painted rod was not moving when the starter button was
pushed.Perhaps if you pull on each lead in turn you might find a loose
one.

Good luck, John,Bali Hai SM319