Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] main outhaul

Stephen Davis
 

Pat,

Try this link to EBay. They seem to have 12mm vectran without the cover at $3.00/ft. 

Regards,
Steve SM72. "Aloha"


On Sep 28, 2014, at 6:01, "Richard03801 richard03801@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Pat if you find it still slipping or are concerned about it keep a can of anti belt slip around. Cover the boom before you spray or get a belt dressing stick from and industrial supply. 

Fair Winds Smooth Sailing To All
Capt Richard 
RP Yacht Brokerage
Newport RI 
We list sell and service fine yachts including Amel's
Cell 603 767 5330

On Sep 28, 2014, at 08:14, sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

It seems 12 mm Vetran line is what is recommended for the outhaul. I found 11 and 12 mm vetran , but it has a polyester cover, I know slipping is a problem . Is a polyester cover acceptable ? Thanks ,Pat


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] main outhaul

Richard03801 <richard03801@...>
 

Pat if you find it still slipping or are concerned about it keep a can of anti belt slip around. Cover the boom before you spray or get a belt dressing stick from and industrial supply. 

Fair Winds Smooth Sailing To All
Capt Richard 
RP Yacht Brokerage
Newport RI 
We list sell and service fine yachts including Amel's
Cell 603 767 5330

On Sep 28, 2014, at 08:14, sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

It seems 12 mm Vetran line is what is recommended for the outhaul. I found 11 and 12 mm vetran , but it has a polyester cover, I know slipping is a problem . Is a polyester cover acceptable ? Thanks ,Pat


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Stopping problem

Patrick McAneny
 

Don, I am not sure what the engine switch panel is , but I will have a look and see what wires lead to the bottom of the black box . Thanks , Pat


-----Original Message-----
From: svharmonie@... [amelyachtowners]
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Sun, Sep 28, 2014 8:52 am
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Stopping problem

 
Check the connection of the wiring from the engine switch panel at the top of the engine near the raw water pump.  It goes into the bottom of the black box with relays in it.  If this is loose or has any corrosion on the connections it will result in this problem.

Don Myers

SM160, Harmonie


Re: Stopping problem

myersdon1
 

Check the connection of the wiring from the engine switch panel at the top of the engine near the raw water pump.  It goes into the bottom of the black box with relays in it.  If this is loose or has any corrosion on the connections it will result in this problem.

Don Myers

SM160, Harmonie


Stopping problem

Patrick McAneny
 

I know this has been discussed before, but I have a Volvo TMD 22A , which often will not stop without turning the key to off a dozen times or more, then sometimes turns right off. I have a new ignition switch , so its not that. I was going to replace the fuel shut off selonoid  so to eliminate that as a source of problem. However , that little switch cost $465.00 ( can you believe it, I can't ) . So my question is , what else could cause an intermittent stopping problem other than the ignition switch or fuel shut off ? I want to fix this before I head south. Thanks, Pat SM123


main outhaul

Patrick McAneny
 

It seems 12 mm Vetran line is what is recommended for the outhaul. I found 11 and 12 mm vetran , but it has a polyester cover, I know slipping is a problem . Is a polyester cover acceptable ? Thanks ,Pat


Re: Propshaft wearing ring

Herbert Lackner
 

Drew and Lili,

we had 200 engine hours since the last seal change (seals have been changed at last haul-out when we purchased the boat - but for sure not the WOB). I think the WOB is has not been changed for many years. From now on we will change it together with the seals, was an expensive and time consuming experience.

yes, there was some seawater in the oil, ugly milkshake.

costs for the extra haul-out + work + oil  ~ 550 eur.
price for the original WOB (bronze) from amel was ~150 eur, original seals from amel have been 8 eur per piece.

fair winds

tadeja & herbert
KALI MERA, SN120


Re: Rust on keel

Herbert Lackner
 

Hi Jean-Pierre and Curt,

thank you for your answers! Curt, would great if you could upload some photos!

Tadeja and Herbert
KALI MERA, SN120


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Anchor and chain

Patrick McAneny
 

Bill, Thanks for your time and explanation. To be safe ,I think I need to replace the chain with 3/8 HT and determine which gypsy is correct for that chain. Whats your thought on swivels ? Pat


-----Original Message-----
From: 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners]
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Sat, Sep 27, 2014 9:51 am
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Anchor and chain

 
Pat,

I will try to answer your questions the best that I know how to.

The only things that I know about all of this were self-taught through research and hands-on experience when I was considering replacing the chain. The issue for me was that there was a very good chain manufacturer in Istanbul, but they only made DIN, not ISO (Amel delivered BeBe #387 with ISO). So, if I were to buy Istanbul chain, I had to consider the cost of a new gypsy.

Is your gypsy stamped with anything else other than 3/8? Mine was stamped with:
Ø 10  3/8 HT  
P .30
The first line is the diameter of the stock which is 10mm or 3/8" (same-same)
The second line is the "PITCH" or length of the link which is 30mm. These markings told me that the chain was made to the ISO4565 standard.

If the gypsy was stamped with:
Ø 10  3/8 HT
P .28
The gypsy would be designed for chain made to the DIN766 standard.

I am fairly sure that Lofrans marks all gypsies this way, because my original and my new gypsy are marked this way. I am also sure that other companies make gypsies to fit the Lofranz windlass, and I have no idea how they are marked.

Regarding your question about using 5/16 in a 10mm (3/8") gypsy, I do not see how that could work without damage to the gypsy and the chain because the dimensions of the chain are  different.

Maybe this will help you: If your gypsy is marked Ø 10  3/8 HT, it is ISO4565 and you should stick with chain that is manufactured to ISO4565 standards. Of course, this is assuming that your gypsy is not worn out, especially considering the possibility that the wrong size chain has been running through that gypsy for some time.

DIN766 and ISO4565 have different lengths of links (PITCH)...they will run in one or the other gypsy, but will hop out of the gypsy every 3rd or 4th rotation...and running the wrong chain will wear out the gypsy and ruin the zinc on the chain. I am sure that you should not run different chain size or link lengths in a gypsy because the gypsy will scrape the zinc off the chain and the chain will wear out the gypsy.

I think you should bring your gypsy to a knowledgeable chain re-seller along with a 1 meter cut of your old chain and discuss this with him. 

Best,

Bill
BeBe 387


On Sat, Sep 27, 2014 at 11:46 AM, Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 
Bill, So you are saying DIN 766 refers to link length and lofran is saying it means proof coil, do you suppose it may mean both. The odd thing is that the gypsy is stamped 3/8 , yet I have 5/16 chain, however if the links are the same length ,than I guess 5/16 would work on a 3/8 gypsy, correct? So if I want to upgrade to ht 3/8 , I just need to get the right link length din766. I wonder if 3/8 HT comes in two different links. I would think the longer links would be preferable . How about swivels between chain and anchor, what do you use. I hardly trust the S.S. ones that depend on a pin screwed in with lock tight to ensure it to stay in.  Thanks , Pat


-----Original Message-----
From: yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Fri, Sep 26, 2014 1:39 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Anchor and chain

 
Pat,

Whoever you spoke to at Lofrans is wrong, very wrong.  Did you download the Anchor Chain, Galvanized dimensions and calibration.pdf.

Please read it and you will see that 10mm chain is made from 10mm (3/8") stock which is manufactured in what most people refer to as two different "pitches" (pitch is referring to the dimension of the link, not the stock). The DIN766 has links that are 2 mm different than the ISO4565 standard. DIN766 is 28mm long and ISO4565 is 30mm long. These chains will NOT work properly in the same Gypsy...different Gypsies are required for each.

I have found that most people do not get their heads around the difference between ISO4565 and DIN766, m ostly because there is not a common and accepted way to explain the difference...let me try...

ISO4565 and DIN766 each are made with 10mm stock. The difference is that the size of the links are different. Now to really confuse you, if you compare any other size stock, like 8mm, or 12mm, the links are identical sizes with ISO4565 and DIN766.

Your 10mm chain needs a different Gypsy for ISO than DIN...but only if 10mm (3/8").

I really hope this solves your issue and helps you get what you need.

Bill
BeBe 387




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Propshaft wearing ring

Richard03801 <richard03801@...>
 

Kent you are correct 2 to keep water out one to keep oil in. We also pack seals with wheel bearing for longer life. 

Fair Winds Smooth Sailing To All
Capt Richard 
RP Yacht Brokerage
Newport RI 
We list sell and service fine yachts including Amel's
Cell 603 767 5330

On Sep 26, 2014, at 22:21, "Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Drew,
On KRISTY, the first two times I changed the seals I put them in per the drawings from Amel...two keeping oil in and one keeping water out.  Both times I got water in the oil before it was time to repaint the bottom.  The last two times I oriented them with the forward one keeping oil in and the two aft ones keeping water out.  I haven't had water in the oil or lost oil since making the change.
Kent
SM243


On Sep 26, 2014, at 4:32 PM, drew.gaffney@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

The grooves on the WOB with steel sleeve on Kali Mera seem much deeper than I've seen.  I wonder there was a seal-size mismatch?

How many engine hours since the last seal change?
Was there enough seawater in the oil to have decreased its lubricity?
In South Africa, I had stainless steel WOB's made using new, Amel-supplied bronze WOB's as a "pattern"..  The machinist commented that these bronze WOB's  were considerably "out of round".  
The cost of the new S/S WOB's was less than 1/3rd the price of the bronze WOB's.
I would be curious to know whether owners are putting 2 of 3 seals inward to keep the oil in (per Amel) or outward to keep sea water out?

Drew and Lili
SY Revelation SM#390
Chaguaramas, Trinidad


Re: Rust on keel

curtepp
 

Herbert:

We had this rusty keel problem last year with our Maramu.  Some rust along the joint of the steel keel. 

We had work done at Nanny Cay on Tortola while we were not present. I It looked great when they were done but I found out later they just blasted the entire area, removing the epoxy to bare metal.  They let it sit overnight.  They applied Micron 66 onto the metal.  A truly shoddy job.  We had pervasive rust showing within two days of launch.  Lesson:  Either do the work yourself or supervise closely.

After 3 weeks in the Virgin Islands we sailed to Fajardo and hauled out at Puerto del Rey.  We let it dry for 5 months, then traveled to PR from Washington State and moved the boat from land storage to Island Marine Inc. boatyard.  (They were highly recommended by another Amel owner.)  I discussed the work with the manager (Ken) and told him to fix it right while we stayed in a condo nearby.  I trusted Ken but I supervised daily to prevent a repeat of the Tortola experience.  I had some directions and advice from Dave Benjamin (who helped us find and buy the boat) from his experience with his 1979 Maramu.  He was kind enough to send me a copy of his log entries from when he had similar work done.

The keel was blasted with low pressure, high volume water and sand to remove all previous coatings on the steel.  That took most of one day.  That was allowed to dry and the steel was sanded, and polished and immediately (within minutes) coated with rust lock.  That was allowed to dry overnight and then sanded and polished again and three more coats of Rust Lock applied.  That was allowed to dry overnight, then three coats of Interlux 2000 epoxy were applied.  Then more sanding and all the various pits were filled.  That was allowed to dry and then three more coats of Rust Lock.  That was allowed to dry then three more coats of Interlux.  After drying, two coats of Micron 66.  Basically, six coats of rust lock, six coats of epoxy, and two coats of Micron.

The bottom of the keel was mostly accessible during the process so the same procedure applied there.  At the end, we put the boat in the crawler and finished doing the spots on the bottom that were inaccessible.  She sat in the crawler for about 7 hours while multilple coats of Rust  Lock and Epoxy were applied.  That was the only part of the process that I wonder about but the two areas on the bottom of the keel that were inaccessible were very small.

The most important part of the process is to expose the bare metal and IMMEDIATELY    (WITHIN MINUTES) apply the first barrier coat.  The oxidation starts right away.  Its best to have two people working so the first barrier coat goes on right away.  If the metal sits exposed it should be sanded and polished clean before the first rust lock is applied.

This whole thing cost us just less than $1,500 and 1/3rd of that was for materials.  I believe we will not see rust again for a long time.  Plus, the keel surface looks great.  Much smoother and the pits are mostly gone.

I think this is a job worth doing right.  Between Ken and I, the job was supervised constantly.  If possible, this is a job you can do yourself but I am glad we paid Island Marine to do the work.

The good news regarding Nanny Cay is that we discovered the crappy, defective work done there before I paid their invoice.

I will try and upload some photos of the work we had done.

Curt Epperson
S/V Languedoc


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Anchor and chain

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Pat,

I will try to answer your questions the best that I know how to.

The only things that I know about all of this were self-taught through research and hands-on experience when I was considering replacing the chain. The issue for me was that there was a very good chain manufacturer in Istanbul, but they only made DIN, not ISO (Amel delivered BeBe #387 with ISO). So, if I were to buy Istanbul chain, I had to consider the cost of a new gypsy.

Is your gypsy stamped with anything else other than 3/8? Mine was stamped with:
Ø 10  3/8 HT  
P .30
The first line is the diameter of the stock which is 10mm or 3/8" (same-same)
The second line is the "PITCH" or length of the link which is 30mm. These markings told me that the chain was made to the ISO4565 standard.

If the gypsy was stamped with:
Ø 10  3/8 HT
P .28
The gypsy would be designed for chain made to the DIN766 standard.

I am fairly sure that Lofrans marks all gypsies this way, because my original and my new gypsy are marked this way. I am also sure that other companies make gypsies to fit the Lofranz windlass, and I have no idea how they are marked.

Regarding your question about using 5/16 in a 10mm (3/8") gypsy, I do not see how that could work without damage to the gypsy and the chain because the dimensions of the chain are  different.

Maybe this will help you: If your gypsy is marked Ø 10  3/8 HT, it is ISO4565 and you should stick with chain that is manufactured to ISO4565 standards. Of course, this is assuming that your gypsy is not worn out, especially considering the possibility that the wrong size chain has been running through that gypsy for some time.

DIN766 and ISO4565 have different lengths of links (PITCH)...they will run in one or the other gypsy, but will hop out of the gypsy every 3rd or 4th rotation...and running the wrong chain will wear out the gypsy and ruin the zinc on the chain. I am sure that you should not run different chain size or link lengths in a gypsy because the gypsy will scrape the zinc off the chain and the chain will wear out the gypsy.

I think you should bring your gypsy to a knowledgeable chain re-seller along with a 1 meter cut of your old chain and discuss this with him. 

Best,

Bill
BeBe 387


On Sat, Sep 27, 2014 at 11:46 AM, Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Bill, So you are saying DIN 766 refers to link length and lofran is saying it means proof coil, do you suppose it may mean both. The odd thing is that the gypsy is stamped 3/8 , yet I have 5/16 chain, however if the links are the same length ,than I guess 5/16 would work on a 3/8 gypsy, correct? So if I want to upgrade to ht 3/8 , I just need to get the right link length din766. I wonder if 3/8 HT comes in two different links. I would think the longer links would be preferable . How about swivels between chain and anchor, what do you use. I hardly trust the S.S. ones that depend on a pin screwed in with lock tight to ensure it to stay in.  Thanks , Pat


-----Original Message-----
From: yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Fri, Sep 26, 2014 1:39 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Anchor and chain

 
Pat,

Whoever you spoke to at Lofrans is wrong, very wrong.  Did you download the Anchor Chain, Galvanized dimensions and calibration.pdf.

Please read it and you will see that 10mm chain is made from 10mm (3/8") stock which is manufactured in what most people refer to as two different "pitches" (pitch is referring to the dimension of the link, not the stock). The DIN766 has links that are 2 mm different than the ISO4565 standard. DIN766 is 28mm long and ISO4565 is 30mm long. These chains will NOT work properly in the same Gypsy...different Gypsies are required for each.

I have found that most people do not get their heads around the difference between ISO4565 and DIN766, m ostly because there is not a common and accepted way to explain the difference...let me try...

ISO4565 and DIN766 each are made with 10mm stock. The difference is that the size of the links are different. Now to really confuse you, if you compare any other size stock, like 8mm, or 12mm, the links are identical sizes with ISO4565 and DIN766.

Your 10mm chain needs a different Gypsy for ISO than DIN...but only if 10mm (3/8").

I really hope this solves your issue and helps you get what you need.

Bill
BeBe 387




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Anchor and chain

Shenanigans <svshenanigans@...>
 

Hi Bill.  We tried the second link on our windows PC and iPad and an error occurs. 

Diane
Shenanigans SM123


On Sep 25, 2014, at 3:16 PM, "yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 


Regarding the question about the anchor, there are at least 3 Super Maramu Bow rollers. I think that you should make a cardboard cutout of the anchor you want and see if it will fit. It may fit on your SM, but not fit on others.

There are two things that you should look at, and these two things will likely answer all of your chain questions. 


And download this file which is "Anchor Chain, Galvanized dimensions and calibration.pdf" Clicking on the following will automatically download the file:

I have seen 10mm chain measure 9mm+/- because the zinc is totally gone. Once the metal starts rusting I am sure that 10mm will get close to 8mm in some places.

< div>I am sure that most of you know that a few months ago a Super Maramu was lost at a Pacific Atoll when his chain broke. It went on a reef and was a total loss. I do not know if the chain was defective, old, or possibly was cut by sharp coral. New chain is not that expensive when you consider what it does for you.

Bill
BeBe 387
 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Anchor and chain

Patrick McAneny
 

Bill, So you are saying DIN 766 refers to link length and lofran is saying it means proof coil, do you suppose it may mean both. The odd thing is that the gypsy is stamped 3/8 , yet I have 5/16 chain, however if the links are the same length ,than I guess 5/16 would work on a 3/8 gypsy, correct? So if I want to upgrade to ht 3/8 , I just need to get the right link length din766. I wonder if 3/8 HT comes in two different links. I would think the longer links would be preferable . How about swivels between chain and anchor, what do you use. I hardly trust the S.S. ones that depend on a pin screwed in with lock tight to ensure it to stay in.  Thanks , Pat


-----Original Message-----
From: yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners]
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Fri, Sep 26, 2014 1:39 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Anchor and chain

 
Pat,

Whoever you spoke to at Lofrans is wrong, very wrong.  Did you download the Anchor Chain, Galvanized dimensions and calibration.pdf.

Please read it and you will see that 10mm chain is made from 10mm (3/8") stock which is manufactured in what most people refer to as two different "pitches" (pitch is referring to the dimension of the link, not the stock). The DIN766 has links that are 2 mm different than the ISO4565 standard. DIN766 is 28mm long and ISO4565 is 30mm long. These chains will NOT work properly in the same Gypsy...different Gypsies are required for each.

I have found that most people do not get their heads around the difference between ISO4565 and DIN766, m ostly because there is not a common and accepted way to explain the difference...let me try...

ISO4565 and DIN766 each are made with 10mm stock. The difference is that the size of the links are different. Now to really confuse you, if you compare any other size stock, like 8mm, or 12mm, the links are identical sizes with ISO4565 and DIN766.

Your 10mm chain needs a different Gypsy for ISO than DIN...but only if 10mm (3/8").

I really hope this solves your issue and helps you get what you need.

Bill
BeBe 387



Re: Anchor and chain

Ian Park
 

My Santorin had 8mm chain and gypsy when I bought it. I changed both for 100m of 10mm and matching gypsy. I brought my Spade anchor from my last boat, but the shank bent slightly in use (the shank on the Spade is hollow). I have contacted Spade twice about this, including photos and have had no response at all. In Las Palmas, Gran Canaria, I bought a new Rocna 25, €495, and have been absolutely delighted with it. It does not fit on the bow of the Santorin as well as the Spade, it needs assistance in orientation itself and jams well in the bow roller. But I will need to modify the fibreglass housing with a s/s bracket to prevent wear and damage.
The 8mm set up with the Spade did hold well in a 36hour f9 in Sardinia last year, but there was no significant fetch. I just felt that 10mm was better suited to the weight of the boat.

Ian

SN Ocean Hobo


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Maramu Halyard leads

amel46met
 

Hi Andrew
I put main and jib inside with a stopper on the jib , to be able to use the winchs  for spin., staysail and pole topping lifts.
Also added ridged vang, self tailing main halyard winch, self tailing reefing winch. jack lines for main sail,and permanent preventers on main boom. Aphrodite is a 1983 Maramu from Santa Cruz, Ca. USA. now in Fiji. I have lived aboard for 14 years with lots of blue water miles. What ever you do you will love your AMEL .
Tom Deasy   S/V Aphrodite



To: amelyachtowners@...
From: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2014 11:44:31 +0000
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Maramu Halyard leads

 

Thank you, yes all cables are being replaced and the wire halyard is being replaced with Dyneema - which means we also have to replace the original winch - all the best andy


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] A couple questions seasickness and remedies

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Drew,

Too bad...In my "clinical trial" the performance of Scopace was very good. A person could could get relief from nausea by taking one tablet even after initial symptoms of nausea had begun.

Of course, all of my subjects had the benefit of a placebo effect which was enhanced because I told them it worked 100% of the time. Several years ago I met two Canadian women. One was a compounding pharmacist, and her partner a MD. The MD suffered from sea sickness. I gave them several tablets. They emailed me and told me how great it was. They also said that they could not get it in Canada, but were going to try other places. I did not hear back. 

That is an interesting story about NASA, because I think it was a Baylor MD, who part-timed at NASA, that first prescribed Scopace for Judy. It worked for Judy better than the scopolamine patch. Interestingly, Judy once had a side effect with the patch, which was inability to focus and dilated eyes. She mentioned this to the Baylor MD and she prescribed the Scopase tablet. After several years, Judy's body has come accustomed to motion and she does not need medication, even with dramatic motion.

How is our friend Jessie James?

Bill
BeBe 387

On Sat, Sep 27, 2014 at 4:01 AM, drew.gaffney@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Bill,
Scopace tablets (hyoscamime 0.4mg) are no longer available in the US.  The pills were manufactured in the US only and I am not aware of any other source.  The injectable form is sold in the UK, but not pills, as far as I can tell.  
The scopolamine patch is available.  When NASA tested it in normal subjects during KC-135 0-g flights, they found almost 10-fold variations in plasma levels of the active drug.  It works well as an anti-nausea medicine for many people, but causes a number of side-effects; inability to focus, inability to initiate unination, and hallucinations.  There is at least a theoretical argument that it interferes with adaptation and actually prolongs motion sickness symptoms.
At one point, NASA used it in combination with dextroamphetamine, due to the former's causing drowsiness and the latter's improving alertness.  In general, "ScopDex" as it was called, has been supplan ted by promethazine (Pherergan), an old, but more potent anti-nausea drug.  It does cause significant drowsiness, but works very well.  
Odansetron (Zofran) is another widely used anti-nausea medication.  It, like promethazine, requires a prescription, but is available generically at very low cost.
Stugeron is widely used outside the US, but not available here, nor in a number of European countries. It is used by many cruisers with benefit, but published clinical data are minimal.

Drew
SY Revelation SM#390
Chaguaramas, Trinidad



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] A couple questions

drew.gaffney@...
 

Bill,
Scopace tablets (hyoscamime 0.4mg) are no longer available in the US.  The pills were manufactured in the US only and I am not aware of any other source.  The injectable form is sold in the UK, but not pills, as far as I can tell.  
The scopolamine patch is available.  When NASA tested it in normal subjects during KC-135 0-g flights, they found almost 10-fold variations in plasma levels of the active drug.  It works well as an anti-nausea medicine for many people, but causes a number of side-effects; inability to focus, inability to initiate unination, and hallucinations.  There is at least a theoretical argument that it interferes with adaptation and actually prolongs motion sickness symptoms.
At one point, NASA used it in combination with dextroamphetamine, due to the former's causing drowsiness and the latter's improving alertness.  In general, "ScopDex" as it was called, has been supplanted by promethazine (Pherergan), an old, but more potent anti-nausea drug.  It does cause significant drowsiness, but works very well.  
Odansetron (Zofran) is another widely used anti-nausea medication.  It, like promethazine, requires a prescription, but is available generically at very low cost.
Stugeron is widely used outside the US, but not available here, nor in a number of European countries. It is used by many cruisers with benefit, but published clinical data are minimal.

Drew
SY Revelation SM#390
Chaguaramas, Trinidad


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Propshaft wearing ring

karkauai
 

Hi Drew,
On KRISTY, the first two times I changed the seals I put them in per the drawings from Amel...two keeping oil in and one keeping water out.  Both times I got water in the oil before it was time to repaint the bottom.  The last two times I oriented them with the forward one keeping oil in and the two aft ones keeping water out.  I haven't had water in the oil or lost oil since making the change.
Kent
SM243


On Sep 26, 2014, at 4:32 PM, drew.gaffney@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

The grooves on the WOB with steel sleeve on Kali Mera seem much deeper than I've seen.  I wonder there was a seal-size mismatch?

How many engine hours since the last seal change?
Was there enough seawater in the oil to have decreased its lubricity?
In South Africa, I had stainless steel WOB's made using new, Amel-supplied bronze WOB's as a "pattern"..  The machinist commented that these bronze WOB's  were considerably "out of round".  
The cost of the new S/S WOB's was less than 1/3rd the price of the bronze WOB's.
I would be curious to know whether owners are putting 2 of 3 seals inward to keep the oil in (per Amel) or outward to keep sea water out?

Drew and Lili
SY Revelation SM#390
Chaguaramas, Trinidad


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Propshaft wearing ring

sailormon <kimberlite@...>
 

Hi do you have a link ?

I could not fiend it.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite SM 376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Thursday, September 25, 2014 1:34 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Propshaft wearing ring

 

 

I was able to find the LRT 455030 in stock at Capital Area Technology, an Austin TX based company with an on-line store.  They show the part for USD 10.00, which compared to buying a new wearing-out sleeve from Amel is the bargain of the year (or, perhaps, the bargain of the haul out).  

 

Stephan

S/V Hanalei (nee Delos), an SMM2K