15 Feb 2006

Hi all:

I just completed installation of new FilmTec SW30-2540 membranes ($177.00 each from
Air, Water, and Ice, Inc.) in my water maker. Not a difficult job one accomplished. Hardest
part was getting the end caps off. I have detailed the process in some Photos that I just
uploaded. My end caps were all ok, the O-rings were all ok, there was some moderate
corrosion of the stainless interconnect thimble, and a defect in the brine seal of one of the
membranes. However, I believe the failure mode was the membrane material themselves.

Output is good, my new Omega EC monitor (220 volt wired to the desalinator breaker) is
working great. The Dessalator salinity sensor does not work at all despite testing it three
ways from Sunday with various scenarios. I am still trying to get some answers from Rod
Boreham and Dessalator. I have spent a couple of hours on the phone with Rod and a
couple of calls to Dessalator plus about 20 emails back and forth. I will let you all know
more when I know more.

In the mean time, I would not run my Dessalator watermaker without backup continuous
monitoring of the TDS (Total Dissolved Solids) or EC (Electrical Conductivity). Until we
know more there is just no guarantee that the Dessalator sensor will divert bad quality
water during an operational cycle, thus filling your fresh water tank with salt water.

Regards, Gary Silver, s/v Liahona SM 2000 Hull # 335

The answer to my earlier question is that 1/2 cm of movement is entirely normal. Ian Jenkins, Pen Azen,Santos, Brazil.

thank you

amelliahona <no_reply@yahoogroups.com> wrote: --- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "pjppappas" <pjppappas@...> wrote:

The bulbs for my Foredeck Light and Cockpit Light are General Electric GE 4502 Lamps (28

vollt, 50 watt). There are also surely direct replacements (size, wattage & voltage from other
manufacturers.

Regards, Gary Silver, Amel SM Hull # 335






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Frankly I would talk to your insurance company - some will not cover rigging failure after 10 years unless it has been tested, others don't mind. For peace of mind we replaced ours after 14 years and it really looked in excellent condition. However you can have good looking stainless steel rigging which parts with no warning.

If you are in U.K. or Europe I suggest that you talk to StaLok as they gave us a really good price which was less than all other estimates, and very good service.

One word of warning. We approached AMEL for a rigging plan - lengths, thickness etc. but their figures did not match up to the real lengths of our rigging!

Our boat number is Santorin 004, a sloop.

Regards

Robin Cooter

joemac4sail <joemac4sail@yahoo.ie> wrote:
Can anyone tell me the recomended life span of the standing rigging
on a santorin. Thanks






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--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "edmund_steele" <edmundsteele@...> wrote:

Mark wrote, " 2. Another way to spot coral heads is to install sonar. The transducers

seem very large for most forward looking sonars such as EchoPilot and Interphase? What
do these transducer do to sailing performance on the Amel Super Maramu? Are the sonars
practically useful for finding one's way in coral fringed islands?"

15 Feb 2006

Mark: I had Amel install an Interphase Twin Scope on my SM 2000 Hull # 335 at the time
of purchase (July 2001). Amel would only install the display and a single transducer.
They refused to install both transducers. As they explained to me, their experience was
limited to the single transducer (vertical scanning) and felt that two transducers or the
dual combined transducer, which is physically larger, would create turbulance and
interefere with the B & G sonic speed system. At my first haul out I installed the second
transducer (horizontal scanning) for the TwinScope about 18 inches in front of the Amel
installed transducer. This places it slightly higher than the vertical scanning transducer
and therefore does not shadow the signal from it. The system works well at speeds under
3 to 4 knots, even better at 1-2 knots, does not interefere with the sonic speed in any way
that I can determine and has saved out bacon several times so far. It is NOT the
ultimate answer to avoiding coral heads etc as it can be fooled by thermoclines etc., yet I
have found it a useful tool when combined with a careful watch, good lighting, and careful
navigation. I can't detect any discernable decrement in sailing performance but it only
makes sense that it increases drag and disrupts laminar water flow. I do find the
horizontal scanning mode more difficult to interpret but as with any graphical tool,
practice makes perfect. Display readability in bright sunlight is its main weak feature.
Would I do it again? Yes!

Regards, Gary S. Silver Amel SM 2000 Hull # 335

Does anyone have performance polars for the Super maramu. You need them
to use the weather routing function of Max Sea.
Can you e-mail them to me or - better - post them to this site ?
Thanks.
Jerome

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "pjppappas" <pjppappas@...> wrote:

The bulbs for my Foredeck Light and Cockpit Light are General Electric GE 4502 Lamps (28

vollt, 50 watt). There are also surely direct replacements (size, wattage & voltage from other
manufacturers.

Regards, Gary Silver, Amel SM Hull # 335

Can anyone tell me the recomended life span of the standing rigging
on a santorin. Thanks

My wife and I will be selling our Mango this year. It is currently located
in Puerta Vallarta , Mexico. Interested parties can contact me at
_silkair@aol.com_ (mailto:silkair@aol.com) Michael

To the AMEL owners group.

For the deck lamps on the main and mizzen, I use a military
application lamp with a hardened filament. I have them on
the boat now and I believe they are General Electric part
#4502F. They are 28 volt and I have never had one fail even
at a 30 volt surge. Any good light bulb specialty shop can
get them for you. If they are not General Electric, I will
post the correct manufacturers name shortly.

I replace all the halogen bulbs with 24 volt ZENON bulbs.
G4 series in 10 and 20 watt. They are about 90% as bright
with a softer light. Their real advantage is that, on my
last two Super Maramus, once they were in place I never had
a failure, not one. They are about 10% more expensive than
halogen but worth it. Again, any specialty lighting show
can get them or order online.

We use Causeway Lighting at 777 S.E. 20th St. here in Fort
Lauderdale. You can reach them at
causewaylight442@bellsouth.net or by phone at (954)
764-0970. Speak with Debbie or Bob. They are checking to
see if they can get the #4502F bulb or something similar. .


I just finished a 1500 mile romp up from Martinique through
the Bahamas then home to Fort Lauderdale on my new AMEL 54,
hull # 14, HOLLIS. What a boat! I am biased, certainly,
but the boat is truly magnificent. We had every kind of
wind and weather including 60 knots++ at the eastern edge of
the Gulfstream during a strong Northwester full gale. Huge
seas at insane intervals and plenty of challenges. The boat
loves to fly at 10 knots plus (saw 17) under staysail and
reefed mizzen in 40 knots+++ of breeze. Balance and
manageability were superb. A worthy and entirely improved
successor to the Super Maramu.

Hope this helps.

All the best,
Joel F. Potter, AMEL 54, HOLLIS, hull # 14

Dck light reference number:04 22 20- 24V/50W at REYA's (WWW.REYA.COM).

Reya, 144 Av de la Roubine, BP 126, 06156 Cannes la Bocca CEDEX,
France
Email France: reya@reya.com
International Email: export@reya.com
Tel: + 33 493 904 700 Fax: + 33 493 904 710

While we are at it, here are the reference of the other bulbs on
board an SM 2000:

Ceiling Halogen: G4 -24V- 10 W et 20W : les 10w à 4.9€ et les 20w à
12€ (28v à 2.94)
On partitions: BA – 15D – 24V/25W : 2
Navigation lights: BAY – 15D - 10W et 25W

Hope the above hemp solving your problem.

Please keep in mind that when the engine is on (or when you are on
marina power) you have 27 volts in the light circuit: a very fast way
to detroy the bulbs you put ON under such a voltage.
Amel has no solution to this problem.

Jerome
NIRAO SM #432

Does anyone know the part number for a replacement blub for the mizzen
deck light. Thank you. Peter Pappas "Callisto" #369

Hi,

we have just acquired a SM 2000 and are looking to buy back up sails.
Has anyone out there got the sizes of the sails and groove widths
please. Our boat is the Med at present and we are unable to get out
there for a while to get the information. Also we would greatly
appreciate any advice regarding additional anchors,currently we have
the CQR s/s standard bow anchor only, thanks

John and Amanda Blyth
"Amelie"

Hello Rudi,

My sympathies regarding your situation. It happened to me after 550 hours on
my first SM and although the replacement of the bush and seals was a
straight forward job to do (once the propeller comes off!), it was
inconvenient at the time and cost over $300 for a lunch break haul out. I
was given 1 hour to complete the job whilst the boat rested in the
Travelhoist slings!

I have heard that you can improve the life of the bushing by making it out
of a different material to bronze. I have heard ceramic mentioned by one
owner, but it might prove too expensive. Last summer I met a very
knowledgeable German owner who was about to have the bush made undersize in
stainless steel then chromed to fit. The chrome will provide a much longer
lasting surface for the lip seals, and will also prevent corrosion of the
stainless due to lack of oxygen below the water line. Double lipped seals
will be used and three Alan screws used instead of two to help obtain better
alignment. He reckons the bush will last three times as long, and recommends
a Molyslip additive to the oil in view of the fact that you may not be able
to change the oil as often.

He is having one made for me also. I guess it will be several years before I
will be able to tell you if it works or not! Has anyone else tried this?

Due to a change of plans, I did not visit Rod Boreham to talk about
Dessalator water makers as planned. Has anyone heard back from him? I seem
to remember he had promised to write to this forum.

Finally, I have heard that mixing antibiotics with anti fouling greatly
increases the life of its growth repellent properties. Has anyone tried this
please? Did it work?

Regards

Ian Shepherd SM2K 414 'Crusader'

Hello All,
Just a thought...I did not have a spare wearing ring and so I had a
local machine shop make one up using the old one as a pattern
(omitting the worn bit!). New lip seals were off the shelf from a shop
selling bearings. Simple and quick and no DHL costs.

Best wishes, Anne and John, SM 319

Vito,
I understand you ran into my friends Ian and Judy Jenkins.
Where are you now?
Lucia is getting married in April.
Fair Winds,
Eric
Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

Hello

The wearing bearing that is causing your problem is a service item.
All Amel owners should take note that this item should be changed
every 800 hours. Its an easy job that any qualified mechanic can
handle. As to the amount of time that you wait, keep in mind that
salt water has entered your gear box. Obviously not a good situation.

Sincererly

Vito Ciaravino
S/V Wanderer


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Rudolf Zelenka"
<rudolf.zelenka@...> wrote:

Hi Dimitris:



Did you change the rings under water?



I suppose you are Greek. I have a house on the southern end of the

Pilion,

near Platanias. Are you sometimes in this vicinity?



Kind regards,



Rudi



_____

Von: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] Im Auftrag von

Krassopoulos

Dimitris
Gesendet: Freitag, 10. Februar 2006 09:50
An: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Betreff: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Amel drive leaking at propeller

shaft, SM

116,



I had the same problem once. The solution is to change the rings

in the

shaft by removing the propeller. The advise I got from Amel at

that time is

that as the level is not very high there is no problem but they

advised to

empty as much as possible the oil/water mix and put some fresh

oil. You can

remove the mix with a pump from the plastic bowl.







Dimitris Krassopoulos

SM 2000 Alma Libre
















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Hi Dimitris:



Did you change the rings under water?



I suppose you are Greek. I have a house on the southern end of the Pilion,
near Platanias. Are you sometimes in this vicinity?



Kind regards,



Rudi



_____

Von: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] Im Auftrag von Krassopoulos
Dimitris
Gesendet: Freitag, 10. Februar 2006 09:50
An: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Betreff: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Amel drive leaking at propeller shaft, SM
116,



I had the same problem once. The solution is to change the rings in the
shaft by removing the propeller. The advise I got from Amel at that time is
that as the level is not very high there is no problem but they advised to
empty as much as possible the oil/water mix and put some fresh oil. You can
remove the mix with a pump from the plastic bowl.







Dimitris Krassopoulos

SM 2000 Alma Libre
















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_____

Rudi, No problem! Mine did the same thing and I didn't change the bearings until 4 months later. If you visited the factory in France you would have seen the cutout of the gears in the propeller drive,they are really well built. Hell, I drove a ford with a v8 engine and a cracked block for 6 months. I had to add water to the radiator every week,and change the oil once a month because the oil-water mix would be way up on the dip stick. I would think in your case that a little water is leaking in,but not much because it hasn't risen much in the overflow so it must be very little. If you were losing oil, then the problem would be easier,just keep adding oil.

John 'Moondog' SM248

From: "rudi_zel" <rudolf.zelenka@chello.at>
Reply-To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Amel drive leaking at propeller shaft, SM 116,
Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2006 07:22:02 -0000

I get water into the Amel drive at the shaft seal near the propeller.
As I am now in a position where I can not take the boat out of the
water (Bocas del Toro, Panama)I am looking for advise. The overflow
container shows white oil (sort of mayonese), but the level did not
rise much (yet). Will the Amel drive survive another 40 hrs?
Rudi Zelenka,

_________________________________________________________________
Express yourself instantly with MSN Messenger! Download today - it's FREE! http://messenger.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200471ave/direct/01/

I had the same problem once. The solution is to change the rings in the
shaft by removing the propeller. The advise I got from Amel at that time is
that as the level is not very high there is no problem but they advised to
empty as much as possible the oil/water mix and put some fresh oil. You can
remove the mix with a pump from the plastic bowl.







Dimitris Krassopoulos

SM 2000 Alma Libre