Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Dessalator Water Maker Issues & New Photos

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, eric <kimberlite@...> wrote:
24 Feb 2006
Eric:

I purchased 3/8 inch quick connect fittings at Home Depot (white plastic, push together
fitting that are good to 100 psi) and cut the blue 10 mm product water line. There is
virtually no pressure on this line . The sensor for the EC system that I mentioned
previously plumbs into a 1/2 in pipe thread fitting. I bought a 1/2 inch PVC pipe "T"
fitting, and plumbed it with the quick connects. So the sensor is just immersed in the
product water as it flows by. I'll post photos after my next trip. I took 220 volt 50 Hertz
Power from the circuit breaker for the water maker.

I have noticed that upon startup the EC briefly goes to somewhere above 2000
microsiemens but then within 30 seconds it comes down to about 350. If you run the
watermaker below green range pressure the EC is actually higher than if run in the normal
operating range. I don't quite understand that but it is consistent. I inquired of the Wafer
Fire and Ice people that I bought my membranes from and they tell me that this is normal.
They call it TDS creep. Evidently when the system is shut down the high TDS on the sea
water side draws the product water back across the membrane by osmotic pressure. This
then concentrates the solulte in the product water side as more and more water is drawn
back across the membranes. The longer the system sits idle the more TDS creep there is.
So the initial minute or two of product water will be high in TDS (EC). Perhaps that is why
the Dessalator system had a timer. I have spent hours corresponding with Dessalator and
they will not provide me with schematics or a logic diagram for the system. I plan to take
detail digital photos of the circuit boards next month when I get on the boat and reverse
engineer the electronics. It doesn't appear to be that complicated. Dessalator says that
they do have spare logic circuit boards for sale and will install one if I ship my system to
them but they at the same time make no guarantees that the system will behave as
advertised even with a new board installed. This is about the goofiest company policy that
I have ever run across.

Regards, Gary


Gary,
How did you hook the salinity sensor into the watermaker output?
Fair Winds,
Eric
Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite


Follow up to 28 volt replacement lamp

amelforme
 

AMEL Owners Group:

Further to my last posting regarding the 28 volt replacement
lamp for the foredeck light and the mizzen mounted cockpit
light, G. E. makes both a spot lamp (clear, non-fluted lens,
more like a driving lamp on high beam) which is #4505 and a
fluted/diffused lens type (spreads the light out more than a
spot lamp) which is #4593.

Additionally, WAGNER makes (more likely sells a lamp from
another manufacturer) a 28 volt fluted lamp that is,
confusingly, a #4505 in their catalog.

I use the spot type on the main mast (more light to the
actual deck area) and the diffused lamp for the cockpit.
Seems to work well. Hope this helps.

All the best,
Joel F. Potter, AMEL 54 - HOLLIS, Hull #14


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Dessalator Water Maker Issues & New Photos

eric freedman
 

Gary,
How did you hook the salinity sensor into the watermaker output?
Fair Winds,
Eric
Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

-----Original Message-----
From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of amelliahona
Sent: Wednesday, February 15, 2006 6:20 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Dessalator Water Maker Issues & New Photos

15 Feb 2006

Hi all:

I just completed installation of new FilmTec SW30-2540 membranes ($177.00
each from
Air, Water, and Ice, Inc.) in my water maker. Not a difficult job one
accomplished. Hardest
part was getting the end caps off. I have detailed the process in some
Photos that I just
uploaded. My end caps were all ok, the O-rings were all ok, there was some
moderate
corrosion of the stainless interconnect thimble, and a defect in the brine
seal of one of the
membranes. However, I believe the failure mode was the membrane material
themselves.

Output is good, my new Omega EC monitor (220 volt wired to the desalinator
breaker) is
working great. The Dessalator salinity sensor does not work at all despite
testing it three
ways from Sunday with various scenarios. I am still trying to get some
answers from Rod
Boreham and Dessalator. I have spent a couple of hours on the phone with
Rod and a
couple of calls to Dessalator plus about 20 emails back and forth. I will
let you all know
more when I know more.

In the mean time, I would not run my Dessalator watermaker without backup
continuous
monitoring of the TDS (Total Dissolved Solids) or EC (Electrical
Conductivity). Until we
know more there is just no guarantee that the Dessalator sensor will divert
bad quality
water during an operational cycle, thus filling your fresh water tank with
salt water.

Regards, Gary Silver, s/v Liahona SM 2000 Hull # 335






Yahoo! Groups Links


Fuel filter question

PFM53 <pfm53@...>
 

Hi all

I know many of you have added Racor fuel filter systems to your Super Maramus,
and I am wondering which models you have found to be a good fit for the Amel.
Our SM is a 95, with the Perkins engine.

Thanks for any input you may have.

Jerry
PFM (#133)


Re: Kirk for Sale

Jose_Luis Isasi <jose.luis.isasi@...>
 

Hello,

Can you please send some photos and info?
My mail address is jose.luis.isasi@motorola.com
Thanks.
JL

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "syhanaleism"
<syhanaleism@...> wrote:

Amel Kirk, Year 1978, No. 229, one Swiss owner, sailed on Lake of
Constance, Teak deck, many extras, EU 35'000.--; please ask for the
documentation.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Kirk for Sale

syhanaleism <syhanaleism@...>
 

Amel Kirk, Year 1978, No. 229, one Swiss owner, sailed on Lake of
Constance, Teak deck, many extras, EU 35'000.--; please ask for the
documentation.


Re: Sea Water Valve / Stop Cock Replacement

John and Anne on Bali Hai <hollamby@...>
 

I had to replace the stop cock on the forward holding tank as the
old one seized up. The local chandlery sold replacements..in bronze
as the original for about US$10 or in stainless for $50.
It was difficult to cut the fibreglass around the bottom until I
bought a couple of long Abrafiles from the local toolshop. These are
made to be used in a hacksaw and are about three sixteenths of an
inch in diameter and 10 inches long. Although not designed for this
job they do bend enough to file through the fibreglass.I held the
ends with bits of rag. I also replaced the plastic tubing with a new
piece of Sanitary tubing.
Good luck John SM 319

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "john martin"
<symoondog@...> wrote:

Bob, I ordered new valves myself because the old ones are a little
hard to
turn off and on. The fiberglass around the valves on the holding
tanks seem
to be more decorative then anything. Its above the water line so
i'll just
cut around the valve and take it out and put the new one in. If my
wife says
it looks ugly I'll wrap some wide white tape around it. If the
fiberglass
turns out to be structual and needs to be re- wraped I'll let you
know.
John "Moondog" SM 248

From: "rossirossix4" <equinoxsolstice@...>
Reply-To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Sea Water Valve / Stop Cock
Replacement
Date: Sun, 19 Feb 2006 19:15:40 -0000

Amel recommends replacing or rebuilding the "sea water valves" in
their maintenance schedule. In their owners manual they refer
to
these as "stop cocks".

I obtained replacement stop cock valves for the engine sea water
intake, fwd and aft head intake, and holding tank discharge from
Amel and they sent the correct replacements which are 1 1/4" and 1
1/2" ball
valves.

However, I received no instructions for replacements and don't see
this addressed anywhere. The engine and head intakes look fairly
straight forward, but the holding tank discharge valve appears to
be
glassed in or on the bottom part of the valve. Almost looks like
it
must
be cut or removed to replace the valve/ stop cock.

These are for my 1993 Santorin, but should be similar or identical
for
the SMs during this period. Has anyone had experience with
replacement of these valves? I would appreciate any advice you
could
give me. Also, is teflon tape or grease advisable in the
replacement?


Bob Rossi, "Brittany de la Mer" #86.


Maint schedule is posted at
http://f4.grp.yahoofs.com/v1/EKT4QzUYDn-
WiJLZppAxC9lqQ1hYSIwyk1hCYdOdB4hdjZEm2CkUB-
_xcSDjtbz7RnSpGlGbYND4eH6VGCFc1SBwPg578N3Xnbg/maintenence%
20schedule.pdf



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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Sea Water Valve / Stop Cock Replacement

john martin <symoondog@...>
 

Bob, I ordered new valves myself because the old ones are a little hard to turn off and on. The fiberglass around the valves on the holding tanks seem to be more decorative then anything. Its above the water line so i'll just cut around the valve and take it out and put the new one in. If my wife says it looks ugly I'll wrap some wide white tape around it. If the fiberglass turns out to be structual and needs to be re- wraped I'll let you know.
John "Moondog" SM 248

From: "rossirossix4" <equinoxsolstice@hotmail.com>
Reply-To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Sea Water Valve / Stop Cock Replacement
Date: Sun, 19 Feb 2006 19:15:40 -0000

Amel recommends replacing or rebuilding the "sea water valves" in
their maintenance schedule. In their owners manual they refer
to
these as "stop cocks".

I obtained replacement stop cock valves for the engine sea water
intake, fwd and aft head intake, and holding tank discharge from
Amel and they sent the correct replacements which are 1 1/4" and 1
1/2" ball
valves.

However, I received no instructions for replacements and don't see
this addressed anywhere. The engine and head intakes look fairly
straight forward, but the holding tank discharge valve appears to be
glassed in or on the bottom part of the valve. Almost looks like it
must
be cut or removed to replace the valve/ stop cock.

These are for my 1993 Santorin, but should be similar or identical
for
the SMs during this period. Has anyone had experience with
replacement of these valves? I would appreciate any advice you
could
give me. Also, is teflon tape or grease advisable in the
replacement?


Bob Rossi, "Brittany de la Mer" #86.


Maint schedule is posted at
http://f4.grp.yahoofs.com/v1/EKT4QzUYDn-
WiJLZppAxC9lqQ1hYSIwyk1hCYdOdB4hdjZEm2CkUB-
_xcSDjtbz7RnSpGlGbYND4eH6VGCFc1SBwPg578N3Xnbg/maintenence%
20schedule.pdf



_________________________________________________________________
Express yourself instantly with MSN Messenger! Download today - it's FREE! http://messenger.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200471ave/direct/01/


New Super Maramu Ballooner for sale

Zanareva
 

I have a spare brand new (hoisted a couple of times but not used)
Super Maramu Ballooner for sale. I'll sell for $1,200 plus actual UPS
or Fedex shipping cost (only to US or Canada address, please).
Condition 9.75 out of 10 scale. Check out close-up photo at: <a
href="http://img52.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf10893lo.jpg"
target="_blank"><img
src="http://img52.imageshack.us/img52/9840/dscf10893lo.th.jpg"
border="0" alt="Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us" /></a>
or send me an email and I'll forward this high resolution photo to
you, plus a couple more.
Richard
closereach@yahoo.com


Sea Water Valve / Stop Cock Replacement

rossirossix4 <equinoxsolstice@...>
 

Amel recommends replacing or rebuilding the "sea water valves" in
their maintenance schedule. In their owners manual they refer
to
these as "stop cocks".

I obtained replacement stop cock valves for the engine sea water
intake, fwd and aft head intake, and holding tank discharge from
Amel and they sent the correct replacements which are 1 1/4" and 1
1/2" ball
valves.

However, I received no instructions for replacements and don't see
this addressed anywhere. The engine and head intakes look fairly
straight forward, but the holding tank discharge valve appears to be
glassed in or on the bottom part of the valve. Almost looks like it
must
be cut or removed to replace the valve/ stop cock.

These are for my 1993 Santorin, but should be similar or identical
for
the SMs during this period. Has anyone had experience with
replacement of these valves? I would appreciate any advice you
could
give me. Also, is teflon tape or grease advisable in the
replacement?


Bob Rossi, "Brittany de la Mer" #86.


Maint schedule is posted at
http://f4.grp.yahoofs.com/v1/EKT4QzUYDn-
WiJLZppAxC9lqQ1hYSIwyk1hCYdOdB4hdjZEm2CkUB-
_xcSDjtbz7RnSpGlGbYND4eH6VGCFc1SBwPg578N3Xnbg/maintenence%
20schedule.pdf


Re: Water maker power draw

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "edmund_steele" <edmundsteele@...> wrote:
Ed and others:
I had similar trouble with my 160 l/hr watermater on SM # 335. This behavior
began about 6 months after it was new (about the time we set off across the Atlantic).
The 20 amp breaker would trip intermittently and periodically just as yours did.

This problem continued intermittently until recently when it became more
frequent. So I checked the current draw at the 220 volt breaker panel
in the galley by using a clamp type AC ammeter and with the high pressure
pump running under load. The draw was only 13.5 amps. The breaker is a
20 amp breaker. Normally inductive motor start up loads are high and
you would expect the trip to occur with HP pump motor start, but this has
not been my experience. The trip would happen seemingly randomly and
unrelated to load or start. I didn't have a replacement breaker so I adjusted
the existing breaker. This is done by turning the red painted "set" screw on
the back of the breaker slightly. I turned mine each 1/8th turn. This tensions
a spring inside the breaker and raises the tension that must be developed on
the bi-metallic conductive strip in the breaker that causes a trip when load
exceeds the "breaker size" limit. Of course I no longer know what the actual
trip value of this breaker is. I intend to replace it with a 25 amp breaker as
soon as possible.

Note that 13.5 amps is probably not the total current draw for the desalinator.
The circuit box on the back of the watermaker control panel has a 25 amp
breaker labeled "HP" presumably for the HP pump, and also a 6 amp breaker
labeled "BP" which I presume is the "Brine Pump" or low pressure feed pump.
I will take some more measurements next time I am on the boat to verify this.
I am trying to get a copy of the schematic and logic diagrams for the water
maker from Dessalator. So far they have only offered to supplly an
installation wiring diagram. I am prepared to reverse engineer this system
to get to the bottom of these questions.

Regards, Gary Silver s/v Liahona

I had a problem with the 160 l / hour watermaker on SM#331 which
tripped the breaker when it was first put into service. There had
been a seal failure problem with the pre-feed pump and I replaced
this with no change in the breaker tripping behavior. Sometimes the
unit would operate for 30 minutes or so before the breaker tripped. I
tried simply replacing the Amel supplied 20 ampere breaker, assuming
that it was faulty but the problem persisted. After several e-mails
to Amel, they agreed that I should replace the breaker with one rated
for 25 amperes. I did this and the unit has operated perfectly for
the past 12 months. I have since discovered that at least one other
Super Maramu owner has had to make the same modification. I have
assumed that the unit must be drawing around 22 amperes in normal
operation – around 4.8 kW but I have not metered this.

Ed Steele
#331 `DoodleBug'


Battery Charger

Ag Av8ter
 

Hello fellow members,
We are the new owners of SM266. Question, I run the generator (we are
on the hook in the BVI) and the green light comes on, on the 220V
panel. I deperess the breaker to turn on the battery charger, but the
charger does not charge the batteries. Is the another breaker that I
am not finding? On the charger a Nemo 50 amp. the yellow light stays
on and the green light flickers on and off. I have a multimeter, but
am not very familar with electricity or trouble shooting.... so I am
not sure where to "read" to see the chargers output. Any Ideas??
Thank you.


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Rigging on an Amel Santorin

David Wallace
 

Joe,

Craig's advice is spot on, we follow the same approach. I use a relatively inexpensive (~$80) magnifying loupe to inspect the fittings -- you need somehting like that to be able to see a very small crack that might form, but don't need anything else. Last year I found one lower swage fitting with that type of crack and replaced that piece of rigging, but the rest was fine. Our rigging is 18 years old so I will probably replace the rest before we take off cruising again, but the rigger who inspected our boat two years ago did not advocate replacing the rigging just based on a timeline.

Dave Wallace
s/v Air Ops -- Maramu -- 1982

From: "Craig & Katherine" <sangaris@aol.com>
Reply-To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Rigging on an Amel Santorin
Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2006 02:59:54 -0000

Joe,
Robin's repy points out quite clearly the "mysticism" of rigging
lifespan. Too many factors impinge - many years in the tropics - bad;
many heavy weather sails - bad; a berth with a "jerky" chop - bad; and
so on. So the insurance companies, as Robin suggests, sometimes step in
with their own arbitrary criteria - no doubt very conservative. Or,
for "peace of mind", as Robin says, we replace it anyway.

My take is to inspect your rigging yourself every year - you'll spot
any swage cracks or other problems quite easily and can take the
appropriate action. You're always vulernable to what the product
reliability folks call "infant mortality", where the brand new fitting
fails, but that's quite unlikely (I used to calculate that stuff!).

Before our transatlantic in 2004 I inspected our 1992 rigging and found
it to be perfect. The "admiral" (my wife, Katherine) wanted a "second
opinion" so we hired a well respected rigger to take a second look - a
reasonably priced safety check - and he agreed it was fine. So 14 years
works for us - I suspect we'll easily go 20.

BUT - you're on your own on this one - there's no "magic" number.

Best regards,
Craig and Katherine Briggs
s/v Sangaris - Santorin #68 - 1992

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Robin Cooter <robincooter@...>
wrote:

Frankly I would talk to your insurance company - some will not cover
rigging failure after 10 years unless it has been tested, others don't
mind. For peace of mind we replaced ours after 14 years and it really
looked in excellent condition. However you can have good looking
stainless steel rigging which parts with no warning....
Robin Cooter

joemac4sail <joemac4sail@...> wrote:
Can anyone tell me the recomended life span of the standing
rigging
on a santorin. Thanks



[Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Rigging on an Amel Santorin

Craig Briggs
 

Joe,
Robin's repy points out quite clearly the "mysticism" of rigging
lifespan. Too many factors impinge - many years in the tropics - bad;
many heavy weather sails - bad; a berth with a "jerky" chop - bad; and
so on. So the insurance companies, as Robin suggests, sometimes step in
with their own arbitrary criteria - no doubt very conservative. Or,
for "peace of mind", as Robin says, we replace it anyway.

My take is to inspect your rigging yourself every year - you'll spot
any swage cracks or other problems quite easily and can take the
appropriate action. You're always vulernable to what the product
reliability folks call "infant mortality", where the brand new fitting
fails, but that's quite unlikely (I used to calculate that stuff!).

Before our transatlantic in 2004 I inspected our 1992 rigging and found
it to be perfect. The "admiral" (my wife, Katherine) wanted a "second
opinion" so we hired a well respected rigger to take a second look - a
reasonably priced safety check - and he agreed it was fine. So 14 years
works for us - I suspect we'll easily go 20.

BUT - you're on your own on this one - there's no "magic" number.

Best regards,
Craig and Katherine Briggs
s/v Sangaris - Santorin #68 - 1992

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Robin Cooter <robincooter@...>
wrote:

Frankly I would talk to your insurance company - some will not cover
rigging failure after 10 years unless it has been tested, others don't
mind. For peace of mind we replaced ours after 14 years and it really
looked in excellent condition. However you can have good looking
stainless steel rigging which parts with no warning....
Robin Cooter

joemac4sail <joemac4sail@...> wrote:
Can anyone tell me the recomended life span of the standing
rigging
on a santorin. Thanks


Dessalator Water Maker Issues & New Photos

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

15 Feb 2006

Hi all:

I just completed installation of new FilmTec SW30-2540 membranes ($177.00 each from
Air, Water, and Ice, Inc.) in my water maker. Not a difficult job one accomplished. Hardest
part was getting the end caps off. I have detailed the process in some Photos that I just
uploaded. My end caps were all ok, the O-rings were all ok, there was some moderate
corrosion of the stainless interconnect thimble, and a defect in the brine seal of one of the
membranes. However, I believe the failure mode was the membrane material themselves.

Output is good, my new Omega EC monitor (220 volt wired to the desalinator breaker) is
working great. The Dessalator salinity sensor does not work at all despite testing it three
ways from Sunday with various scenarios. I am still trying to get some answers from Rod
Boreham and Dessalator. I have spent a couple of hours on the phone with Rod and a
couple of calls to Dessalator plus about 20 emails back and forth. I will let you all know
more when I know more.

In the mean time, I would not run my Dessalator watermaker without backup continuous
monitoring of the TDS (Total Dissolved Solids) or EC (Electrical Conductivity). Until we
know more there is just no guarantee that the Dessalator sensor will divert bad quality
water during an operational cycle, thus filling your fresh water tank with salt water.

Regards, Gary Silver, s/v Liahona SM 2000 Hull # 335


Volvo gear box

ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 

The answer to my earlier question is that 1/2 cm of movement is entirely normal. Ian Jenkins, Pen Azen,Santos, Brazil.


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: REPLACEMENT BULB FOR MIZZEN DECK LIGHT SM 2000

peter pappas <pjppappas@...>
 

thank you

amelliahona <no_reply@yahoogroups.com> wrote: --- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "pjppappas" <pjppappas@...> wrote:
The bulbs for my Foredeck Light and Cockpit Light are General Electric GE 4502 Lamps (28
vollt, 50 watt). There are also surely direct replacements (size, wattage & voltage from other
manufacturers.

Regards, Gary Silver, Amel SM Hull # 335






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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Rigging on an Amel Santorin

Robin Cooter <robincooter@...>
 

Frankly I would talk to your insurance company - some will not cover rigging failure after 10 years unless it has been tested, others don't mind. For peace of mind we replaced ours after 14 years and it really looked in excellent condition. However you can have good looking stainless steel rigging which parts with no warning.

If you are in U.K. or Europe I suggest that you talk to StaLok as they gave us a really good price which was less than all other estimates, and very good service.

One word of warning. We approached AMEL for a rigging plan - lengths, thickness etc. but their figures did not match up to the real lengths of our rigging!

Our boat number is Santorin 004, a sloop.

Regards

Robin Cooter

joemac4sail <joemac4sail@yahoo.ie> wrote:
Can anyone tell me the recomended life span of the standing rigging
on a santorin. Thanks






SPONSORED LINKS
Sailing Sailing yacht Amel Boating sailing

---------------------------------
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Visit your group "amelyachtowners" on the web.

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Re: some questions

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "edmund_steele" <edmundsteele@...> wrote:

Mark wrote, " 2. Another way to spot coral heads is to install sonar. The transducers
seem very large for most forward looking sonars such as EchoPilot and Interphase? What
do these transducer do to sailing performance on the Amel Super Maramu? Are the sonars
practically useful for finding one's way in coral fringed islands?"

15 Feb 2006

Mark: I had Amel install an Interphase Twin Scope on my SM 2000 Hull # 335 at the time
of purchase (July 2001). Amel would only install the display and a single transducer.
They refused to install both transducers. As they explained to me, their experience was
limited to the single transducer (vertical scanning) and felt that two transducers or the
dual combined transducer, which is physically larger, would create turbulance and
interefere with the B & G sonic speed system. At my first haul out I installed the second
transducer (horizontal scanning) for the TwinScope about 18 inches in front of the Amel
installed transducer. This places it slightly higher than the vertical scanning transducer
and therefore does not shadow the signal from it. The system works well at speeds under
3 to 4 knots, even better at 1-2 knots, does not interefere with the sonic speed in any way
that I can determine and has saved out bacon several times so far. It is NOT the
ultimate answer to avoiding coral heads etc as it can be fooled by thermoclines etc., yet I
have found it a useful tool when combined with a careful watch, good lighting, and careful
navigation. I can't detect any discernable decrement in sailing performance but it only
makes sense that it increases drag and disrupts laminar water flow. I do find the
horizontal scanning mode more difficult to interpret but as with any graphical tool,
practice makes perfect. Display readability in bright sunlight is its main weak feature.
Would I do it again? Yes!

Regards, Gary S. Silver Amel SM 2000 Hull # 335


Performance polars

jlcmcg <JLC@...>
 

Does anyone have performance polars for the Super maramu. You need them
to use the weather routing function of Max Sea.
Can you e-mail them to me or - better - post them to this site ?
Thanks.
Jerome