Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Jordan Drogue

sailormon <kimberlite@...>
 

I meant to say the bridles are a problem but I would not shorten them.

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Thursday, March 05, 2015 11:34 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Jordan Drogue

 

 

The backstays are a problem but I would not shorten them. They really soften the stretch of the drogue and with sufficient chafe gear it will not be a problem.

The shock load on the  drogue is surprisingly small as the cones take most of the load. It is amazing to watch it work.  I am just finishing a monster snatch block that will pull the bridle away from whatever backstay is being rubbed by the bridle-Speak to dave about the length.

 

As chafe gear I use leather Velcro lined turnbuckle covers which were made by Edson. I further attach them with “zip” cable ties.

They have to be inspected and moved every hour.

 

You should also fashion some device to fit over the chock when retrieving the drogue. This will prevent you from ripping the cones while they pass over the chock.

 

Be careful with the horn of the primary winch as it will also tear the cones.

Finally you will need to give the primary winch a break every minute or so as the thermal overload built into the winch will cut out and stop the winch. The winch will have to be hand tailed as the drogue is too big to  fit into the winch jaws.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of pepinoamel
Sent: Thursday, March 05, 2015 11:45 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Jordan Drogue

 

 

Hi Bill, Jeff & Eric,

 

I've read Eric's posts and what I'd like to know is the exact length of the bridle leg, as it appears to me that the 2.5 times width of the attachment points, ie. 1.83m width of the attachment points by 2.5m is 4.5m.   Standing on the pontoon behind the boat at that 4.5m point, it appears that I'm pretty much colliding with the backstays.  So, what I would like to know is if I should request those bridle legs to be shorter and if so, at what length.  Of course Eric's response and suggestions would be most appreciated.

 

Thanks.

 

Gerhard Hoffmann

SM381, Pepino

Greece


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Jordan Drogue

sailormon <kimberlite@...>
 

The backstays are a problem but I would not shorten them. They really soften the stretch of the drogue and with sufficient chafe gear it will not be a problem.

The shock load on the  drogue is surprisingly small as the cones take most of the load. It is amazing to watch it work.  I am just finishing a monster snatch block that will pull the bridle away from whatever backstay is being rubbed by the bridle-Speak to dave about the length.

 

As chafe gear I use leather Velcro lined turnbuckle covers which were made by Edson. I further attach them with “zip” cable ties.

They have to be inspected and moved every hour.

 

You should also fashion some device to fit over the chock when retrieving the drogue. This will prevent you from ripping the cones while they pass over the chock.

 

Be careful with the horn of the primary winch as it will also tear the cones.

Finally you will need to give the primary winch a break every minute or so as the thermal overload built into the winch will cut out and stop the winch. The winch will have to be hand tailed as the drogue is too big to  fit into the winch jaws.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of pepinoamel
Sent: Thursday, March 05, 2015 11:45 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Jordan Drogue

 

 

Hi Bill, Jeff & Eric,

 

I've read Eric's posts and what I'd like to know is the exact length of the bridle leg, as it appears to me that the 2.5 times width of the attachment points, ie. 1.83m width of the attachment points by 2.5m is 4.5m.   Standing on the pontoon behind the boat at that 4.5m point, it appears that I'm pretty much colliding with the backstays.  So, what I would like to know is if I should request those bridle legs to be shorter and if so, at what length.  Of course Eric's response and suggestions would be most appreciated.

 

Thanks.

 

Gerhard Hoffmann

SM381, Pepino

Greece


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Jordan Drogue

sailormon <kimberlite@...>
 

Gerhard,

As Jeff mentioned if the drogue is out you will be in severe conditions. The boat will be frequently under water by breaking waves with only the masts sticking out of the sea. Not a problem as the cockpit drains in 45 seconds.

One crewmember over 6 feet tall was up to his armpits in water while standing in the cockpit. I don’t think your dink would hold up to this repeated onslaught.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Thursday, March 05, 2015 10:38 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Jordan Drogue

 

 

Gerhard,

I'm curious what kind of dinghy you have that you're carrying on the back deck.

Hopefully it's a dinghy that can be stowed in the stern locker once deflated.

I personally would not consider any dinghy secured on the back deck to be a safe scenario in any conditions that would warrant the use of a Jordan series drogue.

Jeff 54 #14

----- Original Message -----
From: pepinoamel
Date: Thursday, March 5, 2015 1:48 am
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Jordan Drogue
To: amelyachtowners@...

> I am looking into buying a drogue from Ocean Brake UK. Roddy
> recommends 147 cones. I am still uncertain about the bridle
> arrangement. In my case I have the Amel supplied boomerang
> davits that fold back onto the stern. I presume the bridle has
> to go on the inside of the backstays and to the outside of the
> folded back davits. I keep the dinghy on top of the back deck
> when travelling any distance. I intend to attach the bridles
> with a soft eye on the back cleat and run them through the
> fairlead. Ocean Brake recommends for the length of the bridles,
> 2.5 times the width of the attachment points. I know some of
> you have a Jordan Drogue. Could anybody tell me what the length
> of their bridle legs is to the back cleat and how do you protect
> the legs from chafing? I'm worried about putting too much
> strain on the backstays when the boat yaws. Any comments or
> suggestions would be appreciated.
>
>
> Many thanks.
>
>
> Gerhard Hoffmann
> SM381, Pepino
> Greece
>


Jordan Drogue

sailormon <kimberlite@...>
 

Dear Gerard,

I am not familiar with the cleats you are speaking about. Possibly you could send me a few photos of the stern of your boat and the cleats . I might be able to give you some firsthand advice about this drogue.

We were in Hurricane for 36 hours on the drogue.

You might find this article helpful. If you have any further questions do not hesitate to ask.

I used the next larger drogue than you are considering,

 

Very important—Make sure that the British sail maker is making each cone with a hem on both ends of the cones – otherwise they will fray after being dragged through the water for hours on end.

 

With respect to the length of the bridle, I would speak to Dave Pelissier at ace sailmakers in the USA. He worked very closely with Mr. Jordan and he is familiar with the correct bridle length. I am not on the boat and cannot measure them for you. I would also have them splice eyes in the end of each bridle.

 

I had another occasion to speak to Mr. Jordan when I was in hurricane force wind on a smaller boat ,on the satellite phone. My other boat was rolling from beam to beam. In 65 knots of wind, I will always remember his answer to the problem “ Not enough wind”.

My email for the photos is Kimberlite@...

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

http://www.oceannavigator.com/March-April-2011/Prepare-for-survival-conditions/

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of pepinoamel
Sent: Thursday, March 05, 2015 1:49 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Jordan Drogue

 

 

I am looking into buying a drogue from Ocean Brake UK.  Roddy recommends 147 cones.  I am still uncertain about the bridle arrangement.  In my case I have the Amel supplied boomerang davits that fold back onto the stern.  I presume the bridle has to go on the inside of the backstays and to the outside of the folded back davits.  I keep the dinghy on top of the back deck when travelling any distance.   I intend to attach the bridles with a soft eye on the back cleat and run them through the fairlead.  Ocean Brake recommends for the length of the bridles, 2.5 times the width of the attachment points.  I know some of you have a Jordan Drogue.  Could anybody tell me what the length of their bridle legs is to the back cleat and how do you protect the legs from chafing?  I'm worried about putting too much strain on the backstays when the boat yaws.  Any comments or suggestions would be appreciated.

 

Many thanks.

 

Gerhard Hoffmann

SM381, Pepino

Greece


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bilge Running Continuously

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Derick,

I checked out a Red Line SM for an interested buyer.  There was so much mystery wiring all over that boat that I estimated it would take me 3 weeks to check it all and make things right again.

I hope that you do not find any more mystery wiring, but be suspicious of anything that was added and/or changed. Mystery wiring, if it exists, usually is obvious.

When adding something electric I always ensure the correct size and type wire, correct size fuse, wired correctly and clearly labeled at each termination.

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
sent from my tablet

On Mar 5, 2015 4:33 PM, "derickgates@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

I found out that the reason the bilge pump was running continuously was that another circuit breaker ( originally wired to the compass light) now wired to a set of LED lights under the arch also turns on the bilge pump as if it were in manual mode.  I am looking into how that can be happening.


Thanks for the feedback.

Derick


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bilge Running Continuously

Derick Gates SM2K #400 Brava
 

I found out that the reason the bilge pump was running continuously was that another circuit breaker ( originally wired to the compass light) now wired to a set of LED lights under the arch also turns on the bilge pump as if it were in manual mode.  I am looking into how that can be happening.

Thanks for the feedback.

Derick


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Jordan Drogue

pepinoamel <no_reply@...>
 

Hi Bill, Jeff & Eric,


I've read Eric's posts and what I'd like to know is the exact length of the bridle leg, as it appears to me that the 2.5 times width of the attachment points, ie. 1.83m width of the attachment points by 2.5m is 4.5m.   Standing on the pontoon behind the boat at that 4.5m point, it appears that I'm pretty much colliding with the backstays.  So, what I would like to know is if I should request those bridle legs to be shorter and if so, at what length.  Of course Eric's response and suggestions would be most appreciated.


Thanks.


Gerhard Hoffmann

SM381, Pepino

Greece


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Jordan Drogue

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Gerhard,

If Eric on SM KIMBERLITE does not answer, search "Conversations" for posts containing "Jordan Eric"

Eric has explained this in detail.

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
sent from my tablet

On Mar 5, 2015 12:48 AM, "pepinoamel" <no_reply@...> wrote:

 

I am looking into buying a drogue from Ocean Brake UK.  Roddy recommends 147 cones.  I am still uncertain about the bridle arrangement.  In my case I have the Amel supplied boomerang davits that fold back onto the stern.  I presume the bridle has to go on the inside of the backstays and to the outside of the folded back davits.  I keep the dinghy on top of the back deck when travelling any distance.   I intend to attach the bridles with a soft eye on the back cleat and run them through the fairlead.  Ocean Brake recommends for the length of the bridles, 2.5 times the width of the attachment points.  I know some of you have a Jordan Drogue.  Could anybody tell me what the length of their bridle legs is to the back cleat and how do you protect the legs from chafing?  I'm worried about putting too much strain on the backstays when the boat yaws.  Any comments or suggestions would be appreciated.


Many thanks.


Gerhard Hoffmann

SM381, Pepino

Greece


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Jordan Drogue

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

This does not make it right, but we have a 3.2m AB aluminum bottom dinghy which has been on the back deck for our circumnavigation. We are 75% complete and have been in a small typhoon for days. It was not necessary to deploy a drogue in the typhoon (45-50kts & 6-7m seas).

I believe the decision to stow our dinghy on the back deck was the best decision of the three choices: back deck, davits, or foredeck. We would have probably lost it on the foredeck as the bow was submerged hundreds of times. And, I would rather have the dinghy we have with a chance off losing it than a dinghy which folds and stores.

This is one of those situations where we each will support what we have done. I hate to comment in these situations, but thought that an opposing view was necessary for those that might not have experienced bad conditions.

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
sent from my tablet

On Mar 5, 2015 9:38 AM, "jmkraus@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Gerhard,

I'm curious what kind of dinghy you have that you're carrying on the back deck.
Hopefully it's a dinghy that can be stowed in the stern locker once deflated.
I personally would not consider any dinghy secured on the back deck to be a safe scenario in any conditions that would warrant the use of a Jordan series drogue.
Jeff 54 #14

----- Original Message -----
From: pepinoamel
Date: Thursday, March 5, 2015 1:48 am
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Jordan Drogue
To: amelyachtowners@...

> I am looking into buying a drogue from Ocean Brake UK. Roddy
> recommends 147 cones. I am still uncertain about the bridle
> arrangement. In my case I have the Amel supplied boomerang
> davits that fold back onto the stern. I presume the bridle has
> to go on the inside of the backstays and to the outside of the
> folded back davits. I keep the dinghy on top of the back de ck
> when travelling any distance. I intend to attach the bridles
> with a soft eye on the back cleat and run them through the
> fairlead. Ocean Brake recommends for the length of the bridles,
> 2.5 times the width of the attachment points. I know some of
> you have a Jordan Drogue. Could anybody tell me what the length
> of their bridle legs is to the back cleat and how do you protect
> the legs from chafing? I'm worried about putting too much
> strain on the backstays when the boat yaws. Any comments or
> suggestions would be appreciated.
>
>
> Many thanks.
>
>
> Gerhard Hoffmann
> SM381, Pepino
> Greece
>


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Jordan Drogue

JEFFREY KRAUS
 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bilge Running Continuously

Craig Briggs
 

Derick,
If I read your post correctly, the bilge float switch checks out with an ohm-meter, that is, shows open and closed when you throw the switch manually, but does not shut off the pump.  I would assume you've manually pulled the string up and down, simulating the bilge being pumped out, but the pump still does not go off (that is, this is not just a matter of the string or tube having slipped and gotten longer). Thus, your pump is operating in manual mode, right? 

If so, it's not a matter of the pump having lost it's prime, or some debris in the check valve, per Haldun's reply. It's possible it is the Auto/Manual switch having failed, as you suggested, and you can check that switch out with your multimeter as you did the float switch.  A third place to look is the wiring to the engine room light. On my boat that is wired through the bilge pump circuit - it goes off when the pump is running. I don't know the exact details on the 54, but it's worth a look.

Will be interested in what you find.

(By the way, regarding Haldun's technique for re-establishing a prime, an easier method, rather than taking off the inlet hose, is to take off the outlet hose, put your hand over the outlet and flip the pump on for a couple of seconds - that will re-prime the pump and you can simply slip the outlet hose back on. Be careful because the pressure comes up quickly and will spray all over the place if you don't turn off the pump right away.)

Cheers,
Craig Briggs, SN#68 Sangaris  


---In amelyachtowners@..., <halidunk@...> wrote :

Hi Derick, 
Same thing happened to me. It happens when there is air trapped in the hose. Remedy : stop the bilge pump from the circuit breaker in the engine room. Take out the hose from the bilge sump, and turn it upside down  (Orifice of the hose facing the sky ). Fill the hose with water, and put it back into the sump without draining the hose (sump supposidly full). Open the circuit breaker. 
Hope this helps. 
Cheers 
Haldun 
SV AMANIN A54 no 164 
Marmaris 



-------- Orjinal mesaj --------
Kimden: "derickgates@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...>
Tarih:05/03/2015 14:23 (GMT+02:00)
Alıcı: amelyachtowners@...
Konu: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bilge Running Continuously

 

Hi all,


I was working in the engine room when I noticed that the bilge pump had Ben on for a long time, and was sucking air, not water.  That is when I noticed for the first time that there was no circuit breaker on the 24 V panel for the bilge pump, only the toggle switch between automatIc and manual.  I shut off the bilge pump by disconnecting one of the wires at the pump, and then examined the float switch.  I noticed tht if I disconnect the float switch, one wire or both wires, the pump still runs on and on and on, by which I deduced that the float switch must close when the pump when the water has dropped sufficiently. 


However, on checking out the float switch with an ohmmeter this morning, I find that the float switch works fine and opposite to what I had deduced.  When the float rises the switch closes, and when the water has lowered, the switch opens.  So there is nothing wrong with my float switch.  The bilge pump seems to be ignoring the signal from the float switch.


Is there a control circuit in the bilge pump itself, or someplace else?  Can the manual/auto switch on the 24V panel short out and be on full-time manual?


Anyone experience this before?



Derick

SM2K 400 BrAva

Currently in St. Thomas





Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Galley Stove/camping gaz

Richard Piller <richard03801@...>
 

Hi Will, there are a few things going on here.  One you say you filled the "blue" tanks with propane, normally "blue" tanks are butane, butane has a different regulator, and it is generally smaller than a propane regulator. 
Two if you've got a relay solenoid switch it is not on the 24-volt panel; it will most likely be on the bulkhead in the galley. The electric valve itself will be in the gas locker.  Do you have a gas locker big enough for 10-pound propane tanks?
 
if the system has not been used for a long time it may be that it will take some time to come to the stove.  If the stove is jetted for Butane you may also have some issues once the gas gets there..  Be sure to hold in the valves when trying to light the stove then hold it in until the burn heats the safety element.

Good luck
 
Fair Winds and Smooth Sailing to ALL
Capt. Richard Piller
RP Yacht Brokerage
Newport RI
603 767 5330


From: "tango708@... [amelyachtowners]"
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Wednesday, March 4, 2015 10:09 AM
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Galley Stove/camping gaz

 
I have recently purchased SM hull 180 (1996) and am having trouble getting gas to the stove to light.  I have filled the blue bottles with  propane, there is a switch by the watermaker pannel that says GAZ with two options "0" or "F".  I have tried both positions but assume that F=flow.  The GAZ regulator in turned on at the tank but I am still not getting any fuel at the stove.  Does anyone have a earlier SM that can offer some advice?  Is there an electronic switch somewhere in the system i.e. solenoid switch.  I do not see one on the panel and can't find one in the port cockpit or gas locker.

Any help would be appreciated.

Regards,
Will Stout
SM180
Anni Bea True
Currently in Puerto Rico




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bilge Running Continuously

Halidun Karagoz
 

Hi Derick, 
Same thing happened to me. It happens when there is air trapped in the hose. Remedy : stop the bilge pump from the circuit breaker in the engine room. Take out the hose from the bilge sump, and turn it upside down  (Orifice of the hose facing the sky ). Fill the hose with water, and put it back into the sump without draining the hose (sump supposidly full). Open the circuit breaker. 
Hope this helps. 
Cheers 
Haldun 
SV AMANIN A54 no 164 
Marmaris 



-------- Orjinal mesaj --------
Kimden: "derickgates@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...>
Tarih:05/03/2015 14:23 (GMT+02:00)
Alıcı: amelyachtowners@...
Konu: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bilge Running Continuously

 

Hi all,


I was working in the engine room when I noticed that the bilge pump had Ben on for a long time, and was sucking air, not water.  That is when I noticed for the first time that there was no circuit breaker on the 24 V panel for the bilge pump, only the toggle switch between automatIc and manual.  I shut off the bilge pump by disconnecting one of the wires at the pump, and then examined the float switch.  I noticed tht if I disconnect the float switch, one wire or both wires, the pump still runs on and on and on, by which I deduced that the float switch must close when the pump when the water has dropped sufficiently. 


However, on checking out the float switch with an ohmmeter this morning, I find that the float switch works fine and opposite to what I had deduced.  When the float rises the switch closes, and when the water has lowered, the switch opens.  So there is nothing wrong with my float switch.  The bilge pump seems to be ignoring the signal from the float switch.


Is there a control circuit in the bilge pump itself, or someplace else?  Can the manual/auto switch on the 24V panel short out and be on full-time manual?


Anyone experience this before?



Derick

SM2K 400 BrAva

Currently in St. Thomas





Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bilge Running Continuously

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Good morning Derick,

On mine, there is breaker box in the engine room.
One of the Diruptor (breaker switch) is called “Puisard”.
It is the for the bilge pump.

Does your bilge pump still remove water when it is on?
Mine failed not too long ago and I changed the valve and now it is working again.

Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
In repair in Fort Lauderdale





--------------------------------------------

On Thu, 3/5/15, derickgates@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bilge Running Continuously
To: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Thursday, March 5, 2015, 6:23 AM


 









Hi all,
I was working in the engine
room when I noticed that the bilge pump had Ben on for a
long time, and was sucking air, not water.  That is when I
noticed for the first time that there was no circuit breaker
on the 24 V panel for the bilge pump, only the toggle switch
between automatIc and manual.  I shut off the bilge pump by
disconnecting one of the wires at the pump, and then
examined the float switch.  I noticed tht if I disconnect
the float switch, one wire or both wires, the pump still
runs on and on and on, by which I deduced that the float
switch must close when the pump when the water has dropped
sufficiently. 
However, on checking out
the float switch with an ohmmeter this morning, I find that
the float switch works fine and opposite to what I had
deduced.  When the float rises the switch closes, and when
the water has lowered, the switch opens.  So there is
nothing wrong with my float switch.  The bilge pump seems
to be ignoring the signal from the float
switch.
Is there a control circuit
in the bilge pump itself, or someplace else?  Can the
manual/auto switch on the 24V panel short out and be on
full-time manual?
Anyone experience this
before?

DerickSM2K
400 BrAvaCurrently in St.
Thomas












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Bilge Running Continuously

Derick Gates SM2K #400 Brava
 

Hi all,


I was working in the engine room when I noticed that the bilge pump had Ben on for a long time, and was sucking air, not water.  That is when I noticed for the first time that there was no circuit breaker on the 24 V panel for the bilge pump, only the toggle switch between automatIc and manual.  I shut off the bilge pump by disconnecting one of the wires at the pump, and then examined the float switch.  I noticed tht if I disconnect the float switch, one wire or both wires, the pump still runs on and on and on, by which I deduced that the float switch must close when the pump when the water has dropped sufficiently. 


However, on checking out the float switch with an ohmmeter this morning, I find that the float switch works fine and opposite to what I had deduced.  When the float rises the switch closes, and when the water has lowered, the switch opens.  So there is nothing wrong with my float switch.  The bilge pump seems to be ignoring the signal from the float switch.


Is there a control circuit in the bilge pump itself, or someplace else?  Can the manual/auto switch on the 24V panel short out and be on full-time manual?


Anyone experience this before?



Derick

SM2K 400 BrAva

Currently in St. Thomas





Jordan Drogue

pepinoamel <no_reply@...>
 

I am looking into buying a drogue from Ocean Brake UK.  Roddy recommends 147 cones.  I am still uncertain about the bridle arrangement.  In my case I have the Amel supplied boomerang davits that fold back onto the stern.  I presume the bridle has to go on the inside of the backstays and to the outside of the folded back davits.  I keep the dinghy on top of the back deck when travelling any distance.   I intend to attach the bridles with a soft eye on the back cleat and run them through the fairlead.  Ocean Brake recommends for the length of the bridles, 2.5 times the width of the attachment points.  I know some of you have a Jordan Drogue.  Could anybody tell me what the length of their bridle legs is to the back cleat and how do you protect the legs from chafing?  I'm worried about putting too much strain on the backstays when the boat yaws.  Any comments or suggestions would be appreciated.


Many thanks.


Gerhard Hoffmann

SM381, Pepino

Greece


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Galley Stove/camping gaz

Chris Smither <yachtakwaaba@...>
 

Hi
On our stove we had the "proper gas connectors".....whilst crossing from The ABC islands to Panama we had rough weather.  The stove was gimbling free and the metal tube parted from the back of the stove..very dangerous.
We replaced with the original tubing and clips and learnt to always lock the stove when not in use. We crossed the Pacific, to Australia (1999) and up to Phuket with this connection.
Fair winds 
Chris Smither
 Santorin  sloop 27 Akwaaba


On 5 Mar 2015, at 11:18, Bob Parry ra.parry2@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

We have #33, built in 1990. We still have the original Electrux stove. We always just needed to turn the switch to "ouvert" and light the stove. Could there be a blockage somewhere? When we imported the boat into Australia and registered it in Queensland, we needed a gas certificate. That involved getting a galvanized tank with a proper valve and also replacing the soft hose that connects the copper pipe to the stove with a proper gas tube encased in metal webbing. There was also a second tap installed between the copper pipe and this tubing. The old tubing was past its "Use by" date so I would suggest that you check this out as it can rub against the stove when it swings. There was a post a few years ago by somebody who found this tubing well worn to the point of being dangerous.

PS  There is fail-safe fitted to the stove so you need to keep the switch pushed in until the burner warms up or it will go out.

Ann and Bob Parry
"Nowornot"
At home in Brisbane

On Thu, Mar 5, 2015 at 4:46 AM, Stephen Davis flyboyscd@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi Will,

We own hull 72 (1992), and the gas system should be the same as yours. Our boats were not equipped with a propane solenoid, but only the manual gas valve you described. The O position is on, and the F position is off. In our case the previous owner installed a solenoid in the propane locker as required by an insurance survey he had done. If you have the manual valve on, and you are sure there is no solenoid, it should light. When we purchased our boat last year, the burners would light, but there was so much corrosion in the oven burner, it would not stay lit. We had the original Electrolux oven, and have now replaced it with a new Dickenson Caribbean model. The Dickenson was a good fit, very high quality, and has a larger oven. 

Good luck getting the system figured out. 

Steve Davis
S/V Aloha SM72
Currently in St Augustine, Fl


On Mar 4, 2015, at 09:09, tango708@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

I have recently purchased SM hull 180 (1996) and am having trouble getting gas to the stove to light.  I have filled the blue bottles with  propane, there is a switch by the watermaker pannel that says GAZ with two options "0" or "F".  I have tried both positions but assume that F=flow.  The GAZ regulator in turned on at the tank but I am still not getting any fuel at the stove.  Does anyone have a earlier SM that can offer some advice?  Is there an electronic switch somewhere in the system i.e. solenoid switch.  I do not see one on the panel and can't find one in the port cockpit or gas locker.

Any help would be appreciated.

Regards,
Will Stout
SM180
Anni Bea True
Currently in Puerto Rico




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Galley Stove/camping gaz

bobparry1947
 

We have #33, built in 1990. We still have the original Electrux stove. We always just needed to turn the switch to "ouvert" and light the stove. Could there be a blockage somewhere? When we imported the boat into Australia and registered it in Queensland, we needed a gas certificate. That involved getting a galvanized tank with a proper valve and also replacing the soft hose that connects the copper pipe to the stove with a proper gas tube encased in metal webbing. There was also a second tap installed between the copper pipe and this tubing. The old tubing was past its "Use by" date so I would suggest that you check this out as it can rub against the stove when it swings. There was a post a few years ago by somebody who found this tubing well worn to the point of being dangerous.

PS  There is fail-safe fitted to the stove so you need to keep the switch pushed in until the burner warms up or it will go out.

Ann and Bob Parry
"Nowornot"
At home in Brisbane

On Thu, Mar 5, 2015 at 4:46 AM, Stephen Davis flyboyscd@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi Will,

We own hull 72 (1992), and the gas system should be the same as yours. Our boats were not equipped with a propane solenoid, but only the manual gas valve you described. The O position is on, and the F position is off. In our case the previous owner installed a solenoid in the propane locker as required by an insurance survey he had done. If you have the manual valve on, and you are sure there is no solenoid, it should light. When we purchased our boat last year, the burners would light, but there was so much corrosion in the oven burner, it would not stay lit. We had the original Electrolux oven, and have now replaced it with a new Dickenson Caribbean model. The Dickenson was a good fit, very high quality, and has a larger oven. 

Good luck getting the system figured out. 

Steve Davis
S/V Aloha SM72
Currently in St Augustine, Fl


On Mar 4, 2015, at 09:09, tango708@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

I have recently purchased SM hull 180 (1996) and am having trouble getting gas to the stove to light.  I have filled the blue bottles with  propane, there is a switch by the watermaker pannel that says GAZ with two options "0" or "F".  I have tried both positions but assume that F=flow.  The GAZ regulator in turned on at the tank but I am still not getting any fuel at the stove.  Does anyone have a earlier SM that can offer some advice?  Is there an electronic switch somewhere in the system i.e. solenoid switch.  I do not see one on the panel and can't find one in the port cockpit or gas locker.

Any help would be appreciated.

Regards,
Will Stout
SM180
Anni Bea True
Currently in Puerto Rico




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Dessalator

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Sorry Will, I look at the info I have and it is all in french.
So if you read french let me know as it is a lots of pages.

Sincerely Alexandre
Sm2K #289 NIKIMAT
repairs in Florida




--------------------------------------------

On Tue, 3/3/15, tango708@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Dessalator
To: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Tuesday, March 3, 2015, 12:39 PM


 









Does anyone have a watermaker manual for a hull
number around SM hull# 180.  I believe it is a 50 liter/hr
version and is identical to the 60 liter/hr version.  What
I am looking for is a wiring diagram and operating
instructions.

Regards,
Will











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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Galley Stove/camping gaz

Stephen Davis
 

Hi Will,

We own hull 72 (1992), and the gas system should be the same as yours. Our boats were not equipped with a propane solenoid, but only the manual gas valve you described. The O position is on, and the F position is off. In our case the previous owner installed a solenoid in the propane locker as required by an insurance survey he had done. If you have the manual valve on, and you are sure there is no solenoid, it should light. When we purchased our boat last year, the burners would light, but there was so much corrosion in the oven burner, it would not stay lit. We had the original Electrolux oven, and have now replaced it with a new Dickenson Caribbean model. The Dickenson was a good fit, very high quality, and has a larger oven. 

Good luck getting the system figured out. 

Steve Davis
S/V Aloha SM72
Currently in St Augustine, Fl


On Mar 4, 2015, at 09:09, tango708@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

I have recently purchased SM hull 180 (1996) and am having trouble getting gas to the stove to light.  I have filled the blue bottles with  propane, there is a switch by the watermaker pannel that says GAZ with two options "0" or "F".  I have tried both positions but assume that F=flow.  The GAZ regulator in turned on at the tank but I am still not getting any fuel at the stove.  Does anyone have a earlier SM that can offer some advice?  Is there an electronic switch somewhere in the system i.e. solenoid switch.  I do not see one on the panel and can't find one in the port cockpit or gas locker.

Any help would be appreciated.

Regards,
Will Stout
SM180
Anni Bea True
Currently in Puerto Rico