Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Day tank/extra fuel tank in the life-raft locker

Paul Osterberg
 

Hello Hans-Peter!

The extra tank serve more than one issue, if you use it as a day tank and “manually” pump from the main tank to the day tank, you have good control of the quality in the day tank and run much less risk of blocked fuel line, which usually happens at the most inconvenient time, and/or water in the fuel which can give severe problems with your fuel nozzles.

It gives you a longer range especially important on remote locations, and further more I’m a lazy person and do not like to drag fuel from in worst case an inland fuel stations down to your dinghy and then to the boat, usually it’s very hot at those occasions or raining or.... . So by fueling up when convenient I can hopefully minimize such events


Paul on S/Y Kerpa SM#259



Re: Day tank/extra fuel tank in the life-raft locker

jjjk12s@...
 

There's a lot to be said for carrying plenty of Jerry cans rather than filling storage space with a fixed tank, especially in third world countries where cleaner fuel can be got by going to a service station rather than using port supplies. 

John, Maramu #91, Popeye


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Day tank/extra fuel tank in the life-raft locker

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

I believe that for a circumnavigation in a SM or 54 the boat should have 800 to 900 liters to be on the "safe side."

Amel apparently thought the same and made the 54 with 900 liter capacity.

We carried 190 liters in Jerry Cans placed in the "life raft" locker while crossing oceans. We never needed it and the most that we used was 375 liters, but I think it is better to be safe than sorry.

Bill
BeBe 387

On Thu, Mar 12, 2015 at 2:01 PM, 'hanspeter.baettig@...' hanspeter.baettig@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Don
One little question . Why do you want to have an additional tank?
You own a SM with 600 l of fuel.
Why do you think this is not enough.
Do you consider a World tour, even then with your SM and maybe 3 jerries you are on the save side !
Hanspeter SM#16, Fethiye , Turkey

Von meinem iPhone gesendet

Am 11.03.2015 um 16:15 schrieb "svharmonie@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...>:

 

I would be comfortable with a roto-molded tank from a company that makes tanks for fuel.  The gasoline tanks in my helicopter are made this way and tested to withstand very high impact.  I would not be satisfied with a tank welded from sheet.  One of the holding tanks on Harmonie was replaced with a roto-molded tank with the fittings welded in.  This has worked well in that application for over ten years.  I do not have experience with this approach for fuel, however I suspect it would be satisfactory as some outboard gasoline containers are made this way.


Regards,

Don Myers

Harmonie SM160



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Day tank/extra fuel tank in the life-raft locker

hanspeter baettig
 

Hi Don
One little question . Why do you want to have an additional tank?
You own a SM with 600 l of fuel.
Why do you think this is not enough.
Do you consider a World tour, even then with your SM and maybe 3 jerries you are on the save side !
Hanspeter SM#16, Fethiye , Turkey

Von meinem iPhone gesendet

Am 11.03.2015 um 16:15 schrieb "svharmonie@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...>:

 

I would be comfortable with a roto-molded tank from a company that makes tanks for fuel.  The gasoline tanks in my helicopter are made this way and tested to withstand very high impact.  I would not be satisfied with a tank welded from sheet.  One of the holding tanks on Harmonie was replaced with a roto-molded tank with the fittings welded in.  This has worked well in that application for over ten years.  I do not have experience with this approach for fuel, however I suspect it would be satisfactory as some outboard gasoline containers are made this way.


Regards,

Don Myers

Harmonie SM160


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Calpeda A/C pump

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Eric,

I think that it is:
Part Number: 9281K121
Pump Shaft Seal, 304 Stainless Steel, 3/8" ID, 0.917" Seal OD, Industry Number 511 $20.70 each


Bill

On Wed, Mar 11, 2015 at 8:10 PM, sailormon kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Bill,

Any idea which McMaster pump shaft seal is the correct one?

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mai lto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Tuesday, March 10, 2015 8:38 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Calpeda A/C pump

 

 

Mark,

 

Alex gave you the answer that I gave him a while ago.

Veco-na.com

Courtney Brown

Coastal Climate Control, Inc.

PO Box 4535

Annapolis MD 21403

info"at"CoastalClimateControl.com 

 

I bought an impeller and O ring from them. The mechanical seal is a standard size stainless steel 10mm or 3/8" mechanical seal that looks like this one: https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/amelyachtowners/photos/albums/324976668/lightbox/1427728349?orderBy=ordinal&sortOrder=asc&photoFilter=ALL#zax/1427728349

 

This same mechanical seal is used in the Dessalator Low Pressure Feed Pump, the Climma Calpeda BCM20E water pump for A/C, and the AFMA 66B fresh water Pump. AND, I think it is the same seal used inside the Onan salt water pump...but I am not sure about that. I found some of these while in Malaysia and bou ght 6 of them for about $30 total...and yes they are stainless steel.

 

Alex, thanks for the part numbers...I did not have those.

 

Bill

BeBe 387

 

 

On Tue, Mar 10, 2015 at 6:07 PM, 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Bill,

 

Does this take the impeller from the old blue pump or did you have to modify it? I rebuilt my blue pump a couple of years ago and would like to get some more replacement parts for the impeller assembly (I used existing inventory when I rebuilt it). Do you have a source for this piece?

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Super Maramu 2000

Hull #275

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Monday, March 09, 2015 9:51 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Calpeda A/C pump

 

 

And, if you want a real deal on a 230 volt March pump, check this out:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/March-pump-AC-5C-MD-230v-1ph-1-8hp-3090rpm-NOS-free-shipping-/251866184098

I have one of these as a spare. I t hink it also might work for the Dessalator 160 liter low pressure pump.

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
sent from my tablet

On Mar 9, 2015 7:59 AM, "Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

You're right Bill. AC-5C-MD

Sorry, can't even blame that one on the iPhone keypad. Glad you caught it.

Kent

< br>On Mar 9, 2015, at 8:07 AM, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Kent,

 

Could you check that number again because March does not sho w AC-5P-MD.

 

I think it might be AC-5C-MD

 

Bill

BeBe 387

 

On Mon, Mar 9, 2015 at 6:58 AM, Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Eric.

On SM243 the original was replaced in St Maarten 5 yrs ago with a pump recommended by the Frigoboat dealer there.

March Mfg Co

Grenville, IL

Model AC-5C-MD

It's been going strong for 5 years now.

Kent

SM243

Kristy 


On Mar 9, 2015, at 12:32 AM, sailormon kimberlite@... [amelyacht owners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Can anyone please send me the serial number of the calpeda A/C&n bsp; raw water pump Greenish blue color on a hull close to my hull number?

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

 



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Maybe a stupid question, but I am concerned abt it.

smnefeli
 

Hi Peter,
when we bought Nefeli, three years ago, we observed the same unusualness… we have moved everything possible from the port side to reduce the tilt as much as possible. 
A full water tank helps and diesel tank helps even further, but we have give up, as stove, generator and batteries (in our model, and we assume also in yours) are on the port side.
We assume that one of the reasons to put the batteries under the starboard bunk in newer models was to try and partially solve the issue. Anyway, after that, we look all the SM we meet around the world and we understand that this is "normal" on all of them (included the SM 2000). That is the only problem of a SM, maybe Mark solved it in the best way!

Be happy of your vessel She is a great Lady.

Daniela 
s/y Nefeli SM 38
actually in Saint Lucia

On 12 Mar 2015, at 18:18, 'hanspeter.baettig@...' hanspeter.baettig@... [amelyachtowners] wrote:

 

Hi Peter
I do not understand, your engine is on the port side ?
Hanspeter
SM16
Turkey, Fethiye 

Von meinem iPhone gesendet

Am 11.03.2015 um 23:30 schrieb "'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...>:

 

Hi Peter,

Congratulations on your SM.

Mine also list about 2 degrees with an empty diesel tank and about 1 degree with a full tank. I also find the vessel is a little more upright with a full water tanks. With both full water and diesel, I am almost upright. I don’t think it has anything to do with the fact most of our crap is stored on the port side of the boat.

We have also found our butt sags just a little (no, this is not a personal thing). We adjusted the water line on our first haul out. It was cheaper than the other option of adding more chain in the chain locker.

With best regards,

Mark

Super Maramu 2000

Hull #275

www.creampuff.us

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Wednesday, March 11, 2015 4:28 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Maybe a stupid question, but I am concerned abt it.

Hi all,

I bought the SM (1992) recently and I am refitting piece by piece since a couple of weeks.
I always had the subjective impression that the vessel is not horizontal (no list). Today I checked and I saw that I have a list of 2 degrees to the port side.

The engine and the generator are on the port side, that could give a bit more weight at that side but i think its strange.

Is this normal on a SM? Or do I have to explore why this happens?

Thanks in advance,
Peter

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Maybe a stupid question, but I am concerned abt it.

hanspeter baettig
 

Hi Peter
I do not understand, your engine is on the port side ?
Hanspeter
SM16
Turkey, Fethiye 

Von meinem iPhone gesendet

Am 11.03.2015 um 23:30 schrieb "'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...>:

 

Hi Peter,

Congratulations on your SM.

Mine also list about 2 degrees with an empty diesel tank and about 1 degree with a full tank. I also find the vessel is a little more upright with a full water tanks. With both full water and diesel, I am almost upright. I don’t think it has anything to do with the fact most of our crap is stored on the port side of the boat.

We have also found our butt sags just a little (no, this is not a personal thing). We adjusted the water line on our first haul out. It was cheaper than the other option of adding more chain in the chain locker.

With best regards,

Mark

Super Maramu 2000

Hull #275

www.creampuff.us

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Wednesday, March 11, 2015 4:28 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Maybe a stupid question, but I am concerned abt it.

Hi all,

I bought the SM (1992) recently and I am refitting piece by piece since a couple of weeks.
I always had the subjective impression that the vessel is not horizontal (no list). Today I checked and I saw that I have a list of 2 degrees to the port side.

The engine and the generator are on the port side, that could give a bit more weight at that side but i think its strange.

Is this normal on a SM? Or do I have to explore why this happens?

Thanks in advance,
Peter




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] SM Washboard Removal

Ian Shepherd
 

Hi Eric,

thanks for the info. I am wondering two things:

When you screwed the temporary rails to both sides of the panel, how did you hide the holes on the inside?

With the washboard still in position, how did you apply pressure to the Formica when gluing it in place?

Thanks for the permateak tip. That is a definite for the ladder. I guess I will have to order it from the States, but always pleased to boost your economy in return for you protecting me from Mr Putin!

My router is a long way away so I am still leaning towards removing the dodger, but I will discuss your way with my pet shipwright girl who says she can get the teak laminate.

Regards

Ian Shepherd SM2K 414 Crusader (2003) Cyprus
 

On 10/03/2015 23:54, sailormon kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] wrote:

 

Ian,

I believe I posted a few photos of what I did a few years ago  to replace the companionway washboard surface.

 

I decided I did not want to remove the dodger so this is what I did.

I first removed the screws holding the washboard from going too high. This allowed the washboard to go as high as the dodger.

I blocked the washboard from underneath to hold it up.

 

I then fashioned 2 rails exactly the height as the side rails of the companionway. I screwed these into the face of the washboard on either side leaving about 5 cm of space between the washboard and the new rails.

This gave me a level platform to rout the space between the rails to the thickness of a sheet of Formica.

After routing this area I removed the temporary  rails and routed the rest of the washboard.

Of course I could not get under the edges of the permeant rails as this would entail removing the dodger.

 

Being that the washboard was against the dodger I was routing the lower part of the door that never gets seen.

 

Once everything was routed and sanded smooth I applied a lovely piece of Formica that  really looks like the original teak.  It has been 5 years now and it looks like new.

 

Just as a PS I also replaced the steps on the ladder with a product called permateak- a plastic board , cut with grooves like the original steps and the same color. No one has ever noticed the difference on either project.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

 

 

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Tuesday, March 10, 2015 8:01 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] SM Washboard Removal

 

 

Hi Ian.

Someone posted here a couple (few?) years ago about doing just that. I can't find it right now, but I know it's there somewhere.

Kent

SM243

Kristy


On Mar 10, 2015, at 6:12 AM, Ian Shepherd sv_freespirit@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

My companionway washboard had become grubby due to rubber deposits from
the bottom seal so I decided to sand it down not realizing that the
outer surface was a wafer thin teak veneer. The inevitable happened and
I sanded through to the marine ply underneath. Teak veneer is not
available in Cyprus so my best interim option will be to paint the
washboard pending being able to resurface the panel.

Has anyone removed the washboard without removing the dodger, and if so,
how? There are 4 screws on the outside of the frame. If these are
removed, will the out frame come out without damaging the gelcoat? If
anyone has successfully done this, I would be grateful for any information.

Regards

Ian Shepherd SM 414 Crusader (2003) Larnaca Cyprus



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Anchor Swivel - trusted or not

Ian Shepherd
 

My Bugel anchor came fitted with a German made swivel when I purchased Crusader from Amel. Several years ago the pin that rotates in the swivel got bent, maybe after the anchor hooked around a rock. I thought I should replace it but the price of close to €400 made me wonder if there was an alternative way. I decided to use two galvanised shackles, one attached to the anchor and the other the chain. I took precautions to isolate the anchor electrically from the chain for the anchor is made of a dissimilar metal to the chain. Without isolation the zinc disappears off the chain in a season.

I have experienced no problems without the swivel and in fact there is an improvement in that the chain always untwists when clear of the bottom, so the anchor always arrives the correct way up when it reaches the bow roller. This was definitely not the case when the swivel was attached. I do change the shackles annually as they do lose their zinc being closest to the anchor. But they cost no more than €2 each.

My first Amel had a stainless CQR. It was nowhere as good as the Bugel which has only once let me down after anchoring at Mykonos in 40 knot winds on a weedy bottom. The CQR was prone to be difficult to set and easily pulled out when subject to a sideways pull.

Ian Shepherd SM2K 414 Crusader (2003) Larnaca Cyprus.


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Anchor Swivel - trusted or not

Colin - ex SV Island Pearl
 

Thanks for such an interesting insight to what many of you are using out there. Great advice, and this has been most helpful to our decision making. We will go with a large tested D shackle to align on the shank and then an oversize tested straight shackle to connect that to the chain as per John, Ian and Alain Poireau's recommended systems since there was never a swivel on our previous anchor anyway, and this did not ever yet present us with any twisted chain problems.

If twisting becomes problematic later, then it is comforting to hear how strong and reliable some of the swivels are, and so it is possible to go to a swivel system later if necessary and still sleep well at night.

In terms of S/Y Kerpa's question about Amel supplied s/s CQR we had never had any problems with this anchor at all. Also we see many Amels out there with that same anchor with no apparent problems. This good performance by the Amel supplied s/s CQR surprised us. Not sure why the Amel CQR is so good compared to our past onces, but possibly it has a weighted tip (unsure?), so there should be no urgent need for you to change away from the CQR if it is working well for you. 

Our only reason for changing was based on problems with both the CQR and Bruce anchors on our two past cruising boats. On both those occasions we had changed to the Rocna 33's and were absolutely amazed at how the Rocna set immediately, every time, and never dragged in the same grounds where the other two anchors often took a number of attempts to set correctly. After switching to the Rocna we always slept very well so now want that same piece of mind again on the larger Amel.

Colin & Lauren Streeter
Island Pearl II, 2001 SM # 332. 
Brisbane, Australia 


On Thu, Mar 12, 2015 at 10:09 PM, jjjk12s@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Colin,


Yachting Monthly in May 2006 did a destructive test of anchor chain, shackles and swivels. I just happen to still have a copy (yikes). Generally the stainless steel chain was very slightly weaker than the galvanized (I think maybe because the stainless welds are weaker?) The stainless shackles were stronger than the equivalent galvanized. Galvanized shackles tested for lifting obviously better than non-tested. The shackle should be a size up to better match the breaking strain of the chain. No significant difference between bow and straight shackles. All pretty common sense really.

The strongest swivels were the ones where the two halves clamp together with a separate screw such as made by Kong. I think by the nature of galvanizing it's a rough surface so may not actually swivel properly under load so they're better off stainless and they're best not connected directly to the anchor.

I use over-sized tested galvanized shackle and no swivel. I swapped my CQR for a Manson Supreme and am happy with it. It's probably one size bigger than absolutely necessary being 60lb on my Maramu. As the Manson (like the Rocna) is quite thin I use a large tested D shackle to align on the shank and then an oversize tested straight shackle to connect that to the chain. 

Like others I've used CQR's and don't have total faith in them. One was a genuine one that regularly dragged. Eventually I worked out it was probably wear on the moving pivot that meant the angle of attack at the blade had changed. The non genuine CQR's I've had were ok but would sometimes be hard to set. Also too damn pointy! - one time dragging dangerously in Zanzibar - turned out the point had pierced a plastic drinking cup, another time in Levkas - the anchor landed right in a car tyre, both times I'd reversed to set the anchor (or so I thought) but squalls hit and I only found the problem when I lifted the anchor and found the offending item. 

If you believe anchor tests then things have moved on since plough anchors and the concave ones like Spade, Manson Supreme and Rocna all hold considerably better in most conditions. That seems logical to me but it's still important not be overconfident in the new technology and always make sure it's set properly. 

John, Maramu #91 1981, Popeye




--
Colin Streeter
0411 016 445


Re: Anchor Swivel - trusted or not

jjjk12s@...
 

Colin,

Yachting Monthly in May 2006 did a destructive test of anchor chain, shackles and swivels. I just happen to still have a copy (yikes). Generally the stainless steel chain was very slightly weaker than the galvanized (I think maybe because the stainless welds are weaker?) The stainless shackles were stronger than the equivalent galvanized. Galvanized shackles tested for lifting obviously better than non-tested. The shackle should be a size up to better match the breaking strain of the chain. No significant difference between bow and straight shackles. All pretty common sense really.

The strongest swivels were the ones where the two halves clamp together with a separate screw such as made by Kong. I think by the nature of galvanizing it's a rough surface so may not actually swivel properly under load so they're better off stainless and they're best not connected directly to the anchor.

I use over-sized tested galvanized shackle and no swivel. I swapped my CQR for a Manson Supreme and am happy with it. It's probably one size bigger than absolutely necessary being 60lb on my Maramu. As the Manson (like the Rocna) is quite thin I use a large tested D shackle to align on the shank and then an oversize tested straight shackle to connect that to the chain. 

Like others I've used CQR's and don't have total faith in them. One was a genuine one that regularly dragged. Eventually I worked out it was probably wear on the moving pivot that meant the angle of attack at the blade had changed. The non genuine CQR's I've had were ok but would sometimes be hard to set. Also too damn pointy! - one time dragging dangerously in Zanzibar - turned out the point had pierced a plastic drinking cup, another time in Levkas - the anchor landed right in a car tyre, both times I'd reversed to set the anchor (or so I thought) but squalls hit and I only found the problem when I lifted the anchor and found the offending item. 

If you believe anchor tests then things have moved on since plough anchors and the concave ones like Spade, Manson Supreme and Rocna all hold considerably better in most conditions. That seems logical to me but it's still important not be overconfident in the new technology and always make sure it's set properly. 

John, Maramu #91 1981, Popeye


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Anchor Swivel - trusted or not

Ian Park
 

I have used the 'Kong' swivel shackle for a number if years ( with shirt chain joining to anchor ). Only issue is to periodically check the hex bolt joint to ensure it is still tight.

I trust it more than the two part joint that connects my two 50 m lengths of 10 mm chain.

Used a CQR for several years. Great when set, but can take a bit if dragging to do so. Disconcerting on a change of tide or weedy bottom.

My Spade was brilliant until the hollow shaft bent, so now equally pleased with holding if Rocna 25.

Ian & Linda SN 96 'Ocean Hobo'
St Lucia


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Anchor Swivel - trusted or not

JEFFREY KRAUS
 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Anchor Swivel - trusted or not

JEFFREY KRAUS
 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Anchor Swivel - trusted or not

ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 

Hi Paul,
                      We spent a couple of seasons ( 2003 and 2005) cruising around the Beagle Channel where there were about  ten   charter boats skippered by their owners taking fee paying passengers around the Chilean canales, Cape Horn, Antarctic peninsula etc. These included Skip Novak's two boats, a British boat, Argentinian, Australian , Dutch and the rest were French.  Predominantly steel or aluminium, most were in great condition, one or two I would hesitate to go to sea in. What they had in common was that they all had to anchor in difficult conditions . What was interesting to me was their wide choice of anchors, including CQRs and Bruces which in the last few years have generally lost ground to Rocnas, Spades etc.  
 It's worth remembering that in that part of the world you rarely lie to anchor alone-- ideally you find an east facing bay , drop your anchor and then take lines ashore to trees or rocks. If you have to rely only on your anchor you put out a lot of chain. We spent a many days at anchor in  strong winds occasionally exceeding  50 knots in Ushuaia with all 80m of chain out in about 7 m depth. Those conditions don't do a lot for your sleep, but the anchor stayed put. With enough chain out the choice of anchor may not matter so much. Personally, I am not a fan of the CQR but we have two friends with much more experience than we whose boats wouldn't be without them.
  On your point about swivels and tidal waters, I would not have thought that a swivel would achieve anything that a shackle might not.
 Ian and Judy Pen Azen SM 302 Corfu
 


To: amelyachtowners@...
From: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Thu, 12 Mar 2015 02:12:30 -0700
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Anchor Swivel - trusted or not



Hello!

I have previous experience with an old galvanized CQR and at that time I found it rather poor in performance. Now on my “new” SM I have a stainless steel CQR, which I have considered to change to a Rocna 40 kg, so I’m pleased to see it fits well. BUT I was very surprised to see that Skip Novak use a Stainless steel CQR on his boat sailing in the southern ocean, where the condition are to put it mildly very demanding. Have you found that your CQR perform unsatisfactory and therefore changing to a Rocna?


Concerning the swivel, we have cruised in Greece and Turkey holiday only so no live aboard but still during + 10 years holiday we have never seen the need for a Swivel, the anchor usually come up in the correct position.

I have only limited experience of sailing in tidal waters, and then it might be necessary to have a swivel if you stay long at anchor, else the chain might get twisted, anyone have a view on that?


S/YKerpa SM#259 




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Anchor Swivel - trusted or not

Paul Osterberg
 

Hello!

I have previous experience with an old galvanized CQR and at that time I found it rather poor in performance. Now on my “new” SM I have a stainless steel CQR, which I have considered to change to a Rocna 40 kg, so I’m pleased to see it fits well. BUT I was very surprised to see that Skip Novak use a Stainless steel CQR on his boat sailing in the southern ocean, where the condition are to put it mildly very demanding. Have you found that your CQR perform unsatisfactory and therefore changing to a Rocna?


Concerning the swivel, we have cruised in Greece and Turkey holiday only so no live aboard but still during + 10 years holiday we have never seen the need for a Swivel, the anchor usually come up in the correct position.

I have only limited experience of sailing in tidal waters, and then it might be necessary to have a swivel if you stay long at anchor, else the chain might get twisted, anyone have a view on that?


S/YKerpa SM#259 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Calpeda A/C pump

sailormon <kimberlite@...>
 

Bill,

Any idea which McMaster pump shaft seal is the correct one?

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Tuesday, March 10, 2015 8:38 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Calpeda A/C pump

 

 

Mark,

 

Alex gave you the answer that I gave him a while ago.

Veco-na.com

Courtney Brown

Coastal Climate Control, Inc.

PO Box 4535

Annapolis MD 21403

info"at"CoastalClimateControl.com 

301-352-6962

 

I bought an impeller and O ring from them. The mechanical seal is a standard size stainless steel 10mm or 3/8" mechanical seal that looks like this one: https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/amelyachtowners/photos/albums/324976668/lightbox/1427728349?orderBy=ordinal&sortOrder=asc&photoFilter=ALL#zax/1427728349

 

This same mechanical seal is used in the Dessalator Low Pressure Feed Pump, the Climma Calpeda BCM20E water pump for A/C, and the AFMA 66B fresh water Pump. AND, I think it is the same seal used inside the Onan salt water pump...but I am not sure about that. I found some of these while in Malaysia and bought 6 of them for about $30 total...and yes they are stainless steel.

 

Alex, thanks for the part numbers...I did not have those.

 

Bill

BeBe 387

 

 

On Tue, Mar 10, 2015 at 6:07 PM, 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Bill,

 

Does this take the impeller from the old blue pump or did you have to modify it? I rebuilt my blue pump a couple of years ago and would like to get some more replacement parts for the impeller assembly (I used existing inventory when I rebuilt it). Do you have a source for this piece?

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Super Maramu 2000

Hull #275

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Monday, March 09, 2015 9:51 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Calpeda A/C pump

 

 

And, if you want a real deal on a 230 volt March pump, check this out:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/March-pump-AC-5C-MD-230v-1ph-1-8hp-3090rpm-NOS-free-shipping-/251866184098

I have one of these as a spare. I think it also might work for the Dessalator 160 liter low pressure pump.

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
sent from my tablet

On Mar 9, 2015 7:59 AM, "Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

You're right Bill. AC-5C-MD

Sorry, can't even blame that one on the iPhone keypad. Glad you caught it.

Kent


On Mar 9, 2015, at 8:07 AM, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Kent,

 

Could you check that number again because March does not sho w AC-5P-MD.

 

I think it might be AC-5C-MD

 

Bill

BeBe 387

 

On Mon, Mar 9, 2015 at 6:58 AM, Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Eric.

On SM243 the original was replaced in St Maarten 5 yrs ago with a pump recommended by the Frigoboat dealer there.

March Mfg Co

Grenville, IL

Model AC-5C-MD

It's been going strong for 5 years now.

Kent

SM243

Kristy 


On Mar 9, 2015, at 12:32 AM, sailormon kimberlite@... [amelyacht owners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Can anyone please send me the serial number of the calpeda A/C  raw water pump Greenish blue color on a hull close to my hull number?

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Calpeda A/C pump

Mark Erdos
 

Bill,

 

Thanks. Good information. I think I can buy the mechanical seals from McMaster Carr. It looks to be much cheaper. I will measure the one I have to get the specs. I will definitely want to carry a spare impeller.

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Super Maramu 2000

Hull #275

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Tuesday, March 10, 2015 8:38 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Calpeda A/C pump

 

 

Mark,

 

Alex gave you the answer that I gave him a while ago.

Veco-na.com

Courtney Brown

Coastal Climate Control, Inc.

PO Box 4535

Annapolis MD 21403

info"at"CoastalClimateControl.com 

301-352-6962

 

I bought an impeller and O ring from them. The mechanical seal is a standard size stainless steel 10mm or 3/8" mechanical seal that looks like this one: https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/amelyachtowners/photos/albums/324976668/lightbox/1427728349?orderBy=ordinal&sortOrder=asc&photoFilter=ALL#zax/1427728349

 

This same mechanical seal is used in the Dessalator Low Pressure Feed Pump, the Climma Calpeda BCM20E water pump for A/C, and the AFMA 66B fresh water Pump. AND, I think it is the same seal used inside the Onan salt water pump...but I am not sure about that. I found some of these while in Malaysia and bought 6 of them for about $30 total...and yes they are stainless steel.

 

Alex, thanks for the part numbers...I did not have those.

 

Bill

BeBe 387

 

 

On Tue, Mar 10, 2015 at 6:07 PM, 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Bill,

 

Does this take the impeller from the old blue pump or did you have to modify it? I rebuilt my blue pump a couple of years ago and would like to get some more replacement parts for the impeller assembly (I used existing inventory when I rebuilt it). Do you have a source for this piece?

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Super Maramu 2000

Hull #275

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Monday, March 09, 2015 9:51 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Calpeda A/C pump

 

 

And, if you want a real deal on a 230 volt March pump, check this out:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/March-pump-AC-5C-MD-230v-1ph-1-8hp-3090rpm-NOS-free-shipping-/251866184098

I have one of these as a spare. I think it also might work for the Dessalator 160 liter low pressure pump.

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
sent from my tablet

On Mar 9, 2015 7:59 AM, "Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

You're right Bill. AC-5C-MD

Sorry, can't even blame that one on the iPhone keypad. Glad you caught it.

Kent


On Mar 9, 2015, at 8:07 AM, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Kent,

 

Could you check that number again because March does not sho w AC-5P-MD.

 

I think it might be AC-5C-MD

 

Bill

BeBe 387

 

On Mon, Mar 9, 2015 at 6:58 AM, Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Eric.

On SM243 the original was replaced in St Maarten 5 yrs ago with a pump recommended by the Frigoboat dealer there.

March Mfg Co

Grenville, IL

Model AC-5C-MD

It's been going strong for 5 years now.

Kent

SM243

Kristy 


On Mar 9, 2015, at 12:32 AM, sailormon kimberlite@... [amelyacht owners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Can anyone please send me the serial number of the calpeda A/C  raw water pump Greenish blue color on a hull close to my hull number?

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

 


Re: Aftermarket Deck fitting recommendations

jwdernehl@...
 

Thanks for the advice guys. I will check them out!

Jason 


Re: Aftermarket Deck fitting recommendations

jwdernehl@...
 

I am in the upper Chesapeake(C&D canal), in Delaware. 

Thank you