Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] chain size

Germain Jean-Pierre <jgermain@...>
 

Hello Gang,

I know the gent who publishes this site..  loads of anchor/chain info.


Cheers,


Jean-Pierre Germain
SY Eleuthera, SM 007… still in refit…!



On 17 Apr 2015, at 20:35, amelliahona <no_reply@...> wrote:

 

Hi Bill:


I have just been re-reading the various posts on the forum on anchor chain.  I appreciate your insights.  It would appear that Liahona (hull #335) was originally outfitted by Amel with 10mm HT (high test)  ISO 4565 chain.  This is a G40 (Group 40) chain that gives a working load of 7,200 lbs (as best as I can determine).

The only marine chain that I can find in the USA is ACCO chain (now owned by Peerless).  It is listed as 3/8 inch ISO chain with and inside link length of 1.220 inches that converts to 30.988 mm.  In fact Budget Marine St. Martin list this chain as 3/8 in ISO P31, whereas our gypsy (as originally supplied by Amel) is a P30.  

Any thoughts on the 0.988 mm difference in pitch making a difference.  I know the DIN 28 mm Pitch doesn't fit the P30 gypsy. 

Anybody else out there purchased and used ACCO 3/8 inch ISO HT P31 chain with the original Amel Lofrenz gypsy?

Gary Silver
s/v Liahona
Amel SM 2000  Hull # 335
Lying St. Thomas


Jean-Pierre Germain,
Chief Pilot, Cozuro Limited,
+44 7551 211 511
jp.germain@...
jp.germain@...


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] chain size

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Gary, in about 2006, we added about 25 meters of this Budget Marine chain with a P31 pitch to our original chain to give us 100 meters for Pacific anchorages. It ran fine with our P30 original gypsy, although we rarely put out more than about 74 meters.

When we were in Turkey we replaced the chain and the gypsy with 10mm DIN.

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+39 333 121 8115 Italy Mobile
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail

On Apr 17, 2015 7:36 PM, "amelliahona" <no_reply@...> wrote:
 

Hi Bill:


I have just been re-reading the various posts on the forum on anchor chain.  I appreciate your insights.  It would appear that Liahona (hull #335) was originally outfitted by Amel with 10mm HT (high test)  ISO 4565 chain.  This is a G40 (Group 40) chain that gives a working load of 7,200 lbs (as best as I can determine).

The only marine chain that I can find in the USA is ACCO chain (now owned by Peerless).  It is listed as 3/8 inch ISO chain with and inside link length of 1.220 inches that converts to 30.988 mm.  In fact Budget Marine St. Martin list this chain as 3/8 in ISO P31, whereas our gypsy (as originally supplied by Amel) is a P30.  

Any thoughts on the 0.988 mm difference in pitch making a difference.  I know the DIN 28 mm Pitch doesn't fit the P30 gypsy. 

Anybody else out there purchased and used ACCO 3/8 inch ISO HT P31 chain with the original Amel Lofrenz gypsy?

Gary Silver
s/v Liahona
Amel SM 2000  Hull # 335
Lying St. Thomas


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] chain size

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Hi Bill:

I have just been re-reading the various posts on the forum on anchor chain.  I appreciate your insights.  It would appear that Liahona (hull #335) was originally outfitted by Amel with 10mm HT (high test)  ISO 4565 chain.  This is a G40 (Group 40) chain that gives a working load of 7,200 lbs (as best as I can determine).

The only marine chain that I can find in the USA is ACCO chain (now owned by Peerless).  It is listed as 3/8 inch ISO chain with and inside link length of 1.220 inches that converts to 30.988 mm.  In fact Budget Marine St. Martin list this chain as 3/8 in ISO P31, whereas our gypsy (as originally supplied by Amel) is a P30.  

Any thoughts on the 0.988 mm difference in pitch making a difference.  I know the DIN 28 mm Pitch doesn't fit the P30 gypsy. 

Anybody else out there purchased and used ACCO 3/8 inch ISO HT P31 chain with the original Amel Lofrenz gypsy?

Gary Silver
s/v Liahona
Amel SM 2000  Hull # 335
Lying St. Thomas


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] chain size

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

The most important issue with 3/8" and/or 10mm chain is the "pitch" which is the length of the link. 3/8 chain comes in two different pitches and if you do not match the gypsy correctly, you will have to buy a new windlass gypsy.

Most gypsies are marked. Go the the photos section of the Amel Owner's Group and search on chain, you will see a photo of a Lofranz gypsy marked 3/8 10 HD P 30.This is most likely what you have. But, you could have DIN standard which is a different pitch. Do some internet searches for DIN and ISO 3/8" chain and you will see what I am talking about.

The difference in pitch between DIN and ISO is small. If you cannot identify what your gypsy is, take it off and with you to shop for chain. When shopping, manually lay at least two feet through the gypsy to see if it lays properly. Remember, I said the difference is slight. When you are doing your research write down the different pitches so that you are prepared and maybe bring a micrometer to measure.

I hope this helps you.

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+39 333 121 8115 Italy Mobile
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail

On Apr 17, 2015 3:00 PM, "n33077@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Just a quick question.....I removed and inspected my 300' of anchor chain. I have some suspect links (it appears the chain was never flipped end for end). Anyway on my sharki / lofrens tigres, the chain gypsy has 6 link wells and my measured chain is 3/8".


I spoke with Imtra, and now the question is the chain HT, BBB, or PC?  My guess is HT, but I need to confirm before I order new chain....Any thoughts?


BTW> if anyone wants to buy my old chain, $2 per foot for 275' of good chain.  I'll whackin off the about 30' off one end.  I'm in Annapolis area and can drop off.


Thanks,


Aras

Sharki #183


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Sonic Speed transducer repair/replacement - how?

pepinoamel <no_reply@...>
 

Thanks Olivier and Bill.  I think I've located the forward transducer pipe, it is in the saloon settee where the second fridge/freezer is located, on the bulkhead just behind the mast support.  Is that correct?  I still don't know how I get to the actual cable?  I'm having trouble sourcing the straight transducers.  So far from B&G and Tinley in the UK, they only have the angled ones.  Does anybody know a supplier for these straight ones?


Many thanks.


Gerhard Hoffmann

Pepino SM381

Greece


Re: broken bolts off the flexible coupling

Craig Briggs
 

Hi Phil,
This is a common problem - see several old posts by searching Vetus Coupling.  

Basic issue is the bolts will not come out unless you slide the engine back 2 or 3 inches and remove the coupling from the shaft going into the C drive. Moving the engine takes about an hour or two and is not difficult to do: take the nuts off the unbroken coupling bolts,  remove the 4 engine mounting bolts then take the weight off the engine with line run through the mainsheet block on the mizzen from the engine lifting rings to a primary winch - belay that line forward with a snatch block so it doesn't load up against the engine room hatch cover. 

The next step is you've got to remove the Vetus coupling from the C drive shaft. This can be easy or nearly impossible.  I've done it on a couple of Santorins and actually broken a very beefy wheel puller - finally fabricated one of 1/2 inch plate steel and it worked. Got another one off with a hand sledge hammer and several different chisels and steel wedges and about 5 hours of frustration.

I'd say give it a try but if the coupling is really stuck, give up early and go to Plan B, which is to cut off the heads of the broken bolts with a hacksaw and get them out - then replace with threaded studs with nuts on both ends. Or just go with Plan B only.

By the way, Amel had welded a little angled rod onto the bolt heads that goes into the Vetus coupling and keeps the bolt from turning when you tighten the bolts - that nice but not needed as you can easily get an open end wrench (spanner) on both the bolt head and the nut.  Do use Nyloc nuts and do not overtighten the bolts which is likely the reason they failed in the first place as the Vetus Flex coupling is by definition going to flex.

Good luck with it,
Craig Briggs, 1992 SN#68 Sangaris


---In amelyachtowners@..., <no_reply@...> wrote :

Hello everybody,


I discovered a few weeks ago a broken (off) locknut under the engine ... i discovered it was one off the 4 locknut/bolts off the flexible coupling/ generator .

I tigthened the three remaining locknut bolts and continued sailing motoring in the bocas del toro area panama.

It was mostly motoring and no heavy seas i useally motor my MD22 L at 2400 revs and do more or less 5 to 5.5 knots depending on the seastate.

Yesterday i motored out off an anchoridge and noticed more fibrations and tougth i had something in the propeller... took a dive and checked it... nothing .I went in the engineoom and discovered two more bolts and lock nuts from the flexible coupling had broken off . i motored backslowly and i am  now in a safe anchoridge.

All my plans to go north are gone... 

Does anyone have any experiance with this problem? All the advice, suggestions  are wellcome


Chased murphy off the boat and hope he stays away.


Thank you in advance


Phil


Miles ahead


Santorin 1994 nr 101

 



chain size

n33077@...
 

Just a quick question.....I removed and inspected my 300' of anchor chain. I have some suspect links (it appears the chain was never flipped end for end). Anyway on my sharki / lofrens tigres, the chain gypsy has 6 link wells and my measured chain is 3/8".


I spoke with Imtra, and now the question is the chain HT, BBB, or PC?  My guess is HT, but I need to confirm before I order new chain....Any thoughts?


BTW> if anyone wants to buy my old chain, $2 per foot for 275' of good chain.  I'll whackin off the about 30' off one end.  I'm in Annapolis area and can drop off.


Thanks,


Aras

Sharki #183


Re: broken bolts off the flexible coupling

phil.berghmans <no_reply@...>
 

thank you allen, could be wrigth what you say about checking them on a regular basis would prevent the problem, i will certainly do so in the future..
 thank you
phil


Re: broken bolts off the flexible coupling

Alan Leslie
 

Yes !...
I heard of a Maramu that had broken bolts.
The engineer that repaired it advised me to check the bolts....I did, and found they were a little loose.
I tightened them and now check them every month or so...and so far they are still tight.
I believe the problem is that they vibrate loose and after some hours of being driven in the loose state they break.
Also the way Amel assembled that coupling they are almost impossible to get out.
There are other older posts on the forum about this....and how to replace them.
Good luck
Alan 
Elyse SM437


broken bolts off the flexible coupling

phil.berghmans <no_reply@...>
 

Hello everybody,


I discovered a few weeks ago a broken (off) locknut under the engine ... i discovered it was one off the 4 locknut/bolts off the flexible coupling/ generator .

I tigthened the three remaining locknut bolts and continued sailing motoring in the bocas del toro area panama.

It was mostly motoring and no heavy seas i useally motor my MD22 L at 2400 revs and do more or less 5 to 5.5 knots depending on the seastate.

Yesterday i motored out off an anchoridge and noticed more fibrations and tougth i had something in the propeller... took a dive and checked it... nothing .I went in the engineroom and discovered two more bolts and lock nuts from the flexible coupling had broken off . i motored backslowly and i am  now in a safe anchoridge.

All my plans to go north are gone... 

Does anyone have any experiance with this problem? All the advice, suggestions  are wellcome


Chased murphy off the boat and hope he stays away.


Thank you in advance


Phil


Miles ahead


Santorin 1994 nr 101

 



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: headsail furler

JEFFREY KRAUS
 


Maramu prop size

jjjk12s@...
 

Would anyone happen to know if a 22" diameter propeller can be fitted on a Maramu?


I have re-engined with a Yanmar 75HP (3200 RPM) with a 1:2.75 ratio transmission. The theoretical optimum propeller is 22" diameter by 14" pitch.


I think the original propeller was 20" diameter. If that is the maximum then the recommended prop is 20" by 18" pitch which would not be as efficient as a 22x14. I have a previous prop that was 19" diameter but that was put on with a Perkins M60 which is very high revving to achieve the 60HP and I think the previous owner replaced it with a larger one (20x14 I think) which I have not had the chance to check the stamp on.


The boat is in a marina with murky water, box jellyfish and possible crocodiles (!) so I don't fancy diving under to measure it. The prop tip clearance should be a minimum of 15% of prop diameter.


Thanks for any help.


John 


FW: Ground Behind Nav Station

Mark Erdos
 

Bill, Alan, Gary and Kent,

 

Thanks for the help. I have started to dig into this and will post my findings (or more likely, additional questions).

 

Bill,

 

I purchased the 12 fuse block. The nest of wires is horrible and has been on the list to clean up. It just moved up in priority after finding this ground issue. The previous owner has in-line fuses all over the place. I was actually thinking about installing the fuse block in the cabinet below the nav desk. It would be more accessible there as my arms don’t seem to be long enough to work on the wiring at the nav desk. Also, we slept on our new mattress last night. Awesome. Thanks for the recommendations.

 

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Super Maramu 2000

Hull #275

www.creampuff.us

 

From: Mark Erdos [mailto:mcerdos@...]
Sent: Sunday, April 12, 2015 8:48 PM
To: 'amelyachtowners@...'
Subject: Ground Behind Nav Station

 

Hi all,

 

I need a little help please from the electrical minded people please. I’ll be the first to admit most of what was posted regarding Ground and bond circuits on this forum is over my head (for now).

 

After reading Kent’s issue’s I am concerned since Cream Puff was also repowered with a Yanmar 4JH4-HTE and also has an 220v inverter installed. I am not sure if the inverter was factory installed or after market. While I hope the previous owner hired a mechanic/electrician that was schooled on Amel, I do not know for sure this was the case. Kent’s phrase “It is almost certain that my problem was caused by a combination of very poorly installed charger/inverter by a marine electrician and improperly bonded CDrive by the people who installed my new Yanmar.” has made me worry a little.

 

https://www.dropbox.com/s/pkpzhtr8y7riyvb/DSCN1123.JPG?dl=0

 

I recently found a circuit that doesn’t seem quite right. Behind the nav desk are the terminals controlled by the VHF/instrument breaker in the hanging locker. See picture by clicking above link. When I test for voltage between the pos(+) and neg(-), I get 24 vdc as expected. But, when I test voltage between the middle ground terminal and pos(+), I still get 24vdc. On the ground terminal is a green wire that goes to a Gnd on a 30 battery charger (exit bottom of pic), a green wire that goes to the Gnd on the Furuno heading sensor (exit top of pc) and 2 green/yellow wires (not sure where these go yet) connected to the terminal.

 

I was under the understanding the green/yellow wires were all part of the bonding system and not connected to the boat ground or neg(-) system. I removed the solid green wires and tested everything individually.

 

Terminal (+) and both green/yellow wires = 24 vdc

Terminal (+) green wire coming from battery charger (disconnected from terminal) = 24 vdc

Terminal (+) green wire coming from Furuno heading sensor (disconnected from terminal) = 24 vdc

 

Since my understanding that I stated above regarding green/yellow wires, I am seriously confused why I have a connection somewhere between the 24vdc neg(-) and these green/yellow wires. Any enlightenment would be greatly appreciated.

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Super Maramu 2000

Hull #275

www.creampuff.us

 


Re: headsail furler

Bob Hodgins <bobh@...>
 

Jeffery,
Our boats are very close in number, so I though I would share my experience. I also had my head sail furler stop working about eighteen months ago. I did open the motor and found all is well. I just cleaned it and re-greased it. I determined it was a failure of the Bamar control box. On my boat, #31, the control boxes for both the head sail and the stay sail are mounted in the bow locker with the bow thruster. There was enough length in the wires going to the head sail Bamar controller box to reach the controller box for the stay sail. I simply connected the wires for the head sail into the stay sail controller, which verified the failure of the box, and then I used the stay sail switch to control the head sail while I got the replacement controller. ( I don't use the stay sail often).
I will echo another responders comments, that the Bamar controllers are poor quality. The rep for Bamar USA (who is in Canada) admitted that they knew the original boxes were poor quality and they have had endless trouble with them. They have designed a new version of the controller. They did not have a rebuilt unit available, so he sold me a "updated version" controller. When I took it to the boat to install, I found a loose capacitor rattling around in the box. It had come off the circuit board in shipping. I brought it back home and had it repaired. On the next trip to the boat I found the the control switch wire connections are different. I am confident I can sort it out, but have not yet done that. I did not launch my boat this year, so I am delayed in getting that project completed.
Bob
Gallivant 54 #31
on the hard in Puerto Rico


Re: Painting vinyl ceiling

Dominique Guenot
 

Thank you John, this is very helpful
S/V Viva  SM2002
Nice, France


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] 230VAC EARTH is connected to Amel Bonding system in SM2k

Beaute Olivier
 

Good morning everybody,

I confirm AC ground and equipotential bonding are connected.
When in a marina, if your vessel is not equipped with a galvanic isolator, don't keep your shore power cord connected permanently (for instance, when you're not aboard for a few days/weeks).
If you want to keep your shore power cord connected, you should install a galvanic isolator.
None of the Santorins, SM, SM 2K, AMEL 54 were originally equipped with a galvanic isolator.


Have a good day.

Olivier



On Tuesday, April 14, 2015 6:21 PM, "Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners]" wrote:


 
Just another reason to have one of those silver electrodes to check hull potential.
Kent
SM243
Kristy


On Apr 14, 2015, at 10:19 AM, Andrew Lamb andrew.lamb@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 
I think there was a message about this from Olivier a few weeks ago – stating that if you have the climma system installed the bonding was connected to AC earth (at the boat side of the generator / shorepower switch) via the climma system and that this was ok. I think my conclusion from this was therefore that probably the safest approach is to accept a connection between AC earth and the bonding exists and therefore have an isolation transformer on the shorepower feed, then we don’t have to be concerned as to whether the shorepower earth is wire correctly in the marina.
 
Andrew
 
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Tuesday, April 14, 2015 3:57 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] 230VAC EARTH is connected to Amel Bonding system in SM2k
 
 
Maybe, not everything is cut and dry.
 
The 230VAC EARTH (yellow/green shore power/generator) is connected to the Amel Bonding System (yellow/green wire) at the Climma A/C salt water pump. The 230VAC EARTH (yellow/green shore power/generator) is connected to the pump housing and the Amel Bonding system (yellow/green wire) is connected to the pump housing via a connection to the one-way valve on the top of the pump.
 
I am not sure, but this may be the case with the 230VAC pumps with the Dessalator water maker.

The following is a link to the photo showing the 230VAC wires inside the junction box on the Calpeda BCM20E pump. 
 https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/amelyachtowners/photos/albums/324976668/lightbox/58456993?orderBy=ordinal&sortOrder=asc&photoFilter=ALL#zax/58456993
 
I wish that I knew more about this.
 
Bill
BeBe #387



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Sonic Speed transducer repair/replacement - how?

Beaute Olivier
 

Good morning,

the front one is located on the front bulkhead in the saloon, centered, below the front settee, Inside a PVC duct.
The aft one is located under the saloon table, in a duct too.
These cables are black and if you follow them, you come to the SONIC SPEED box, located on the front bulkhead too, or in the small bottom cabinet (front starboardside).

Have a good day.



On Tuesday, April 14, 2015 10:03 PM, "'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners]" wrote:


 
Gerhard,
I have not looked for the forward mounted sensor and do not know. When you open the aft floor locker under the dining table and see the hose, you are actually looking at a hose used as conduit for the keel mounted sonic speed transducer.
I will look tomorrow and try to find the wire for the bow mounted transducer.
Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+39 333 121 8115 Italy Mobile
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail
On Apr 14, 2015 7:11 PM, "pepinoamel" <no_reply@...> wrote:
 
Hi Bill,

No, in that case I have not found the forward one.  I don't know which is which at the moment.  If you can tell me where the other one is, then it will be clearer.

Many thanks.

Gerhard Hoffmann
Pepino SM381
Greece



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] headsail furler

JEFFREY KRAUS
 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] headsail furler

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Jeff,
I think you are on to it with the motor brushes. Had it often on my SM. The SM has easy access to the brushes with the motor in place. Remove the plastic cover then there are two screw caps that hold the brushes. Undo them, remove the brushes. You may need to replace them if worn.
Danny
SM 299 Ocean Pearl 
 


From: "jmkraus@... [amelyachtowners]"
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Thursday, 16 April 2015 12:22 AM
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] headsail furler

 
Hello group,
On my recent trip, my headsail furler stopped working.
The breaker switch was not thrown. My initial thought was that the toggle switch was bad. Having the staysail, and knowing that it's furler was working fine, I switched the toggles for the two, hoping to use the staysail furler toggle if that was the problem. It wasn't. (BTW, I tested the headsail furler toggle switch with the staysail, and it worked fine).
Checking the headsail electronic brain box , I noticed that the green indicator light that is on the outside of the box was not lit. The same lite on the staysail furler brain box was lit.
Opening the box, the circuit board has a small green indicator light. That was lit. I thought that perhaps there was a fuse in the circuit somewhere (similar to the b&g brain circuit board...which has a small 5a fuse), but I didn't find one.
Since we were encountering lite winds, I just manually furled the few times I needed to, which, btw, led me to put a drill winch bit (www.WinchBit.com) on my buy it now list.
Considering that these furling motors are just glorified starter motors, with brushes that create a dust environment within the motor over time, I'm wondering if the motor itself has found a dead spot. That is a regular occurance (every few years) for the autopilot on my F/V. That said, I'm wondering if, regardless of whether or not that is my problem, that the furler motors should be removed (if possible) and have the motors cleaned out and new brushes installed by a starter/alternator shop.
I am hauling out, so I've got some time to get to the bottom of this issue. Anyone with insight into these issues....initial furler not working, and motor removal/brush replacement, your feedback is greatly appreciated.
Good day to all.
Jeff 54 #14 Spirit



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] headsail furler

karkauai
 

Do you have power to the furler motor when the toggle switch is in either "run" position?  If you have power and nothing happens, it is the motor.  If no power, it is in the power supply lines.  You can take the motor cover off without removing it from the fore stay and check the power at the terminals on the motor.
Kent
SM243
Kristy


On Apr 15, 2015, at 8:22 AM, jmkraus@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hello group,

On my recent trip, my headsail furler stopped working.

The breaker switch was not thrown. My initial thought was that the toggle switch was bad. Having the staysail, and knowing that it's furler was working fine, I switched the toggles for the two, hoping to use the staysail furler toggle if that was the problem. It wasn't. (BTW, I tested the headsail furler toggle switch with the staysail, and it worked fine).

Checking the headsail electronic brain box , I noticed that the green indicator light that is on the outside of the box was not lit. The same lite on the staysail furler brain box was lit.

Opening the box, the circuit board has a small green indicator light. That was lit. I thought that perhaps there was a fuse in the circuit somewhere (similar to the b&g brain circuit board...which has a small 5a fuse), but I didn't find one.

Since we were encountering lite winds, I just manually furled the few times I needed to, which, btw, led me to put a drill winch bit (www.WinchBit.com) on my buy it now list.

Considering that these furling motors are just glorified starter motors, with brushes that create a dust environment within the motor over time, I'm wondering if the motor itself has found a dead spot. That is a regular occurance (every few years) for the autopilot on my F/V. That said, I'm wondering if, regardless of whether or not that is my problem, that the furler motors should be removed (if possible) and have the motors cleaned out and new brushes installed by a starter/alternator shop.

I am hauling out, so I've got some time to get to the bottom of this issue. Anyone with insight into these issues....initial furler not working, and motor removal/brush replacement, your feedback is greatly appreciated.

Good day to all.

Jeff 54 #14 Spirit