Date   

Re: desalanator D50

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Hi Will:

I am a bit unfamiliar with the D50 but have some experience with the 220 VAC 50 Hz 120 liter/hr Dessalator water maker.  

Is the D50 a 220 VAC water maker?

How many liters/hr does it make?

When you say it, "shuts itself off"  exactly what is happening?  For instance on my water maker there is control circuitry that is 24 VDC and operational voltage for the feed low pressure pump and the high pressure pump.  I found that my Diruptor circuit breaker would trip randomly and I replaced it with a slightly higher amperage breaker and have had no further problems (these CBs are thermal devices and I operate in the Caribbean where there are higher than France ambient temperatures. 

Happy to help any way I can if you can be a bit more specific about your system and your symptoms.

All the best, 

Gary Silver
s/v Liahona   SM # 335
Sapphire Bay Marina, St. Thomas


desalanator D50

tango708@...
 

Hi, I recently had my membranes replaced on my desalanator D50 (1996) the unit worked fine for a few days and then started turning itself off.

Any ideas out there as to what I might look at a the problem.  Anyone know a good water maker person in Ft. Lauderdale?

Regards,

Will Stout
Anni Bea True
presently in PR in route to Key West and Ft. Lauderdale



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Eumenia Mini 5500 Dishwasher Parts

svsummerlove@...
 

Hi Leo,

I can't thank you enough for going to all this trouble for me.  I'll try spraying the timer.

Do you have the name and email address of the person you talked to at Schabauer in case I decide to look into buying the used one?  Does he speak English or would I need to have it translated before sending it?

Again, many thanks Leo,

Steve Constantine
s/v Summer Love
SMM #340


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Amel's Bonding System

Beaute Olivier
 

Hi James,

yes your ballast should be bonded. Probably in the eighties, AMEL did not put a copper strap but a copper braid with a terminal connected (bolted on one of the keel bolts inside the grey water bilge.

You could first try to check the electric relation between the engine and the ballast outside (measure the resistance with an ohm-meter).

Olivier



On Monday, May 11, 2015 1:56 PM, "j.lochhead@... [amelyachtowners]" wrote:


 
Hi Olivier,

Still looking at the bonding and came across the below.  Do you know should there be a bilge strap on a Maramu 46.  The keel is bolted so I presume it should be bonded.  As far as I can determine there is not copper strap in the deep bilge.

Thanks again

James
Mahiti #147


---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote :

Hi gary,

the cast iron ballast, on a Sharki, is dropped Inside the GRP keel, glued with polyester, and isn't held with bolts. It should never touch the water and isn't bonded.
The bonding point that Dieter searches can be the engine body, or the top of the rudder shaft in the aft cabin.
There aren't so many items to bond in a Sharki, but, for instance, the through hull and seacock for the WC must be bonded (a wire connecting the seacock to the engine body or to the rudder shaft).

Al the best.


On Sunday, February 1, 2015 9:16 PM, amelliahona wrote:


 
Hi Dieter:

I know nothing about Sharki construction, but just wanted to verify that the copper bar that connects the keel bolt of a SM (iron keel encased in epoxy paint envelope and hopefully with minimal salt water exposure), is part of the bonding system, not part of the AC grounding system.  I would guess that the Sharki keel is connected to the bonding somewhere.  Olivier, what say you?

Gary Silver
s/v Liahona
Amel SM #335





Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] B&G Hydra 330 - processor

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Peter,

Tinley Electronics (http://www.tinleyelectronics.com/) in the UK is
the authorized repair depot. They will repair or rebuild aything.

Email "Sarah Pidgley" <sarah@tinley.net>

Best,

Bill
BeBe 387
Just completed a haul out at MIYY, Malta


On 5/11/15, Steve Davis flyboyscd@gmail.com [amelyachtowners]
<amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
Hi Peter,

My SM is also a 1992, and for now the B&G instruments are working.
Recently,
both of my multi function displays were difficult to read, and the
buttons
were not working well. I took them out, and sent them to Myles
Electronics
in Deland, Florida for repair. www.myleselectronics.com/

Myles is British gentleman, and has been repairing B&G equipment for
more
than 20 years in his one man shop. He is very knowledgable, and has a lot
of
old spares which no one else has. Just about everyone in the USA,
including
dealers, send old B&G equipment to Myles for repair. He was able to
replace
both LCDs and get the buttons working in mine for about $200.00 U.S. Also,
I
have seen our B&G processors or EBay several times in the last year.

With that said, our B&G instruments are very old, and I assume they will
fail sometime during our planned 10 year circumnavigation. We purchased a
Raymarine I70 multifunction display system pack for about $1200.00. It
consist of a thru-hull combination speed/temp/depth transducer, mast head
wind, and the display. At our haul out recently, we installed the hull
transducer, and I installed the wind transducer at the top of mizzen. The
I70 has a very nice display, and it integrates everything you need into
one
display. Also the new Ray equipment is NEMA 2000 compatible, it
integrated
easily with my newer Raymarine autopilot, and with my new Vesper Marine
AIS.
It is also easy to add other Ray instruments with one cable off the NEMA
2000 backbone.

I'm keeping my B&G equipment, but now have a complete backup should it
decide to expire of old age. Should you decide to go this route, you will
be
amazed by how functional these new displays are.

Regards
Steve and Liz
Aloha SM72
St Augustine, FL for a few more weeks



On May 11, 2015, at 08:21, mausi@gonex.de [amelyachtowners]
<amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Hello,

I got the B&G instruments, transducers and sensors and the Hydra 330
installed on my SM (build 1992). The processor does no longer work and
after calling into B&G UK, I learned that there is no replacement or
spare
availlable.

Did someone in this group found a solution which keeps the sounders and
sensors and the instruments (or parts of it) or is it mandantory to
throw
them all away and just install something new?

Thanks for your help,
Peter




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Iridium Sat. Phone

Gary Wells
 

Hi Kent,


Did you get the Iridium :Go" setup?  If so, then the WiFi data is autonomous from the phone.  Thew ay I understand this Axcess Point setup is that the router has to actually dial the phone and establish a data connection, then devices can use that connection via WiFi.  It's ~supposed~ to be automatic, but it just isn't cooperating :)


Gary W

S/V Adagio, SM 209




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] B&G Hydra 330 - processor

Stephen Davis
 

Hi Peter,

My SM is also a 1992, and for now the B&G instruments are working. Recently, both of my multi function displays were difficult to read, and the buttons were not working well. I took them out, and sent them to Myles Electronics in Deland, Florida for repair. www.myleselectronics.com/

Myles is  British gentleman, and has been repairing B&G equipment for more than 20 years in his one man shop. He is very knowledgable, and has a lot of old spares which no one else has. Just about everyone in the USA, including dealers, send old B&G equipment to Myles for repair. He was able to replace both LCDs and get the buttons working in mine for about $200.00 U.S. Also, I have seen our B&G processors or EBay several times in the last year. 

With that said, our B&G instruments are very old, and I assume they will fail sometime during our planned 10 year circumnavigation. We purchased a Raymarine I70 multifunction display system pack for about $1200.00. It consist of a thru-hull combination speed/temp/depth transducer, mast head wind, and the display. At our haul out recently, we installed the hull transducer, and I installed the wind transducer at the top of mizzen. The I70 has a very nice display, and it integrates everything you need into one display. Also the new Ray equipment is NEMA 2000 compatible, it integrated easily with my newer Raymarine autopilot, and with my new Vesper Marine AIS. It is also easy to add other Ray instruments with one cable off the NEMA 2000 backbone. 

I'm keeping my B&G equipment, but now have a complete backup should it decide to expire of old age. Should you decide to go this route, you will be amazed by how functional these new displays are. 

Regards
Steve and Liz 
Aloha SM72
St Augustine, FL for a few more weeks



On May 11, 2015, at 08:21, mausi@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hello,

I got the B&G instruments, transducers and sensors and the Hydra 330 installed on my SM (build 1992). The processor does no longer work and after calling into B&G UK, I learned that there is no replacement or spare availlable.

Did someone in this group found a solution which keeps the sounders and sensors and the instruments (or parts of it) or is it mandantory to throw them all away and just install something new?

Thanks for your help,
Peter



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Iridium Sat. Phone

Peter Forbes
 

Gary,

Good question - I would like to know the answer if you get it as I have a similar set upon my 54.

Peter
Peter Forbes
0044 7836 209730
Carango  Sailing Ketch
Amel 54 #035
Travelling West in Mediterranean

On 11 May 2015, at 12:40, Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


Hi Gary,
I just received the same equipment as you have.  I have sent emails via the wifi access point, and made calls with the phone, not using the access point.  I haven't tried using the phone plugged into the access point by USB.
What are you trying to do with it plugged in rather than using the wifi hotspot for email or web weather?

I'll give it a try and get back to you tomorrow.
Kent
SM243
Kristy
En Route to Charleston SC


On May 10, 2015, at 9:45 PM, gary@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hello,  I know this is off topic of our boats, but I am working with an Iridium 9575 (Extreme) and an Iridium Axcess Point router ((WiPipe) and they are giving me geek-fits tonight.

Wondering if anyone is using or has used this combo to put WiFi aboard and if I might spell out the challenge I'm looking at for further review.  The devices are current firmware, properly registered, fully charged and both work independently; I can make/take calls, send texts on the phone and I can access the Router via local WiFi for setup options.  The stumper is when the router is connected to the phone by USB; the phone registers "USB Cable Connected" for about 3 seconds, then says "USB Cable Disconnected" and there is no way to dial out to establish a data connection.  The weirdest part isthat the phone indicates it is now having its battery charged from the Axcess Point router.  I'm pretty sure that's not quite right :)  I have used multiple cables, and have started from 'scratch' in configuring the phone but the symptoms are unchanged.  
If anyone has run this path before, I'd certainly appreciate any coaching or troubleshooting ideas.  

Thanks,

Gary W.

S/V Adagio

SM 209







B&G Hydra 330 - processor

Peter
 

Hello,

I got the B&G instruments, transducers and sensors and the Hydra 330 installed on my SM (build 1992). The processor does no longer work and after calling into B&G UK, I learned that there is no replacement or spare availlable.

Did someone in this group found a solution which keeps the sounders and sensors and the instruments (or parts of it) or is it mandantory to throw them all away and just install something new?

Thanks for your help,
Peter



Re: Amel's Bonding System

j.lochhead@...
 

Hi Olivier,

Still looking at the bonding and came across the below.  Do you know should there be a bilge strap on a Maramu 46.  The keel is bolted so I presume it should be bonded.  As far as I can determine there is not copper strap in the deep bilge.

Thanks again

James
Mahiti #147


---In amelyachtowners@..., <atlanticyachtsurvey@...> wrote :

Hi gary,

the cast iron ballast, on a Sharki, is dropped Inside the GRP keel, glued with polyester, and isn't held with bolts. It should never touch the water and isn't bonded.
The bonding point that Dieter searches can be the engine body, or the top of the rudder shaft in the aft cabin.
There aren't so many items to bond in a Sharki, but, for instance, the through hull and seacock for the WC must be bonded (a wire connecting the seacock to the engine body or to the rudder shaft).

Al the best.


On Sunday, February 1, 2015 9:16 PM, amelliahona <no_reply@...> wrote:


 
Hi Dieter:

I know nothing about Sharki construction, but just wanted to verify that the copper bar that connects the keel bolt of a SM (iron keel encased in epoxy paint envelope and hopefully with minimal salt water exposure), is part of the bonding system, not part of the AC grounding system.  I would guess that the Sharki keel is connected to the bonding somewhere.  Olivier, what say you?

Gary Silver
s/v Liahona
Amel SM #335



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Iridium Sat. Phone

karkauai
 

Hi Gary,
I just received the same equipment as you have.  I have sent emails via the wifi access point, and made calls with the phone, not using the access point.  I haven't tried using the phone plugged into the access point by USB.
What are you trying to do with it plugged in rather than using the wifi hotspot for email or web weather?

I'll give it a try and get back to you tomorrow.
Kent
SM243
Kristy
En Route to Charleston SC


On May 10, 2015, at 9:45 PM, gary@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hello,  I know this is off topic of our boats, but I am working with an Iridium 9575 (Extreme) and an Iridium Axcess Point router ((WiPipe) and they are giving me geek-fits tonight.

Wondering if anyone is using or has used this combo to put WiFi aboard and if I might spell out the challenge I'm looking at for further review.  The devices are current firmware, properly registered, fully charged and both work independently; I can make/take calls, send texts on the phone and I can access the Router via local WiFi for setup options.  The stumper is when the router is connected to the phone by USB; the phone registers "USB Cable Connected" for about 3 seconds, then says "USB Cable Disconnected" and there is no way to dial out to establish a data connection.  The weirdest part isthat the phone indicates it is now having its battery charged from the Axcess Point router.  I'm pretty sure that's not quite right :)  I have used multiple cables, and have started from 'scratch' in configuring the phone but the symptoms are unchanged. 
If anyone has run this path before, I'd certainly appreciate any coaching or troubleshooting ideas. 

Thanks,

Gary W.

S/V Adagio

SM 209




Iridium Sat. Phone

Gary Wells
 

Hello,  I know this is off topic of our boats, but I am working with an Iridium 9575 (Extreme) and an Iridium Axcess Point router ((WiPipe) and they are giving me geek-fits tonight.

Wondering if anyone is using or has used this combo to put WiFi aboard and if I might spell out the challenge I'm looking at for further review.  The devices are current firmware, properly registered, fully charged and both work independently; I can make/take calls, send texts on the phone and I can access the Router via local WiFi for setup options.  The stumper is when the router is connected to the phone by USB; the phone registers "USB Cable Connected" for about 3 seconds, then says "USB Cable Disconnected" and there is no way to dial out to establish a data connection.  The weirdest part isthat the phone indicates it is now having its battery charged from the Axcess Point router.  I'm pretty sure that's not quite right :)  I have used multiple cables, and have started from 'scratch' in configuring the phone but the symptoms are unchanged. 
If anyone has run this path before, I'd certainly appreciate any coaching or troubleshooting ideas. 

Thanks,

Gary W.

S/V Adagio

SM 209




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Sharki bow thruster leaking

eric freedman
 

Hello Mr. Romano,

 

I apologize for my late reply.

 

In the photos it is indeed the propellant that we installed on our boats. Can you tell me which parts you need, knowing that we cannot provide you that virtually seals right now.

 

Sincerely,

Sonja Kessler

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Sunday, May 10, 2015 5:16 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Sharki bow thruster leaking

 

 

Hi

I have written to Amel Med for same reason. This is the reply.

 

================================================================================================

 Bonjour Monsieur Romano,

 

Veuillez m’excuser pour ma réponse tardive.

 

Sur les photos il s’agit bien du propulseur que nous avons installé sur nos bateaux. Pouvez-vous me dire de quelles pièces détachées vous avez besoin, sachant que nous ne pouvons pratiquement  vous fournir que les joints d’étanchéité en ce moment.

 

Cordialement,

Sonja Kessler

================================================================================================

Rosario

Sharki no 183

Arma di Taggia (Italy)

 

 

Il Martedì 5 Maggio 2015 12:47, "n33077@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> ha scritto:

 

 

So last night I posted the pictures of the Sharki bow thruster. New pictures are up in the photo's file under Sharki Bow thruster.  If you zoom in you can see the hairline cracks in the white housing. I wrote to SAV@ Amel to see if they have a replacement unit and / or parts for this bow thruster.  27 years of service ain't too bad,  however it might be time to replace it. 

 

As a temporary fix, I'm thinking of epoxying the housing, sanding it smooth again and re-installing the seal.  I'd also like to add a zirk fitting and just filling it with grease.  Any thoughts?

 

Aras

Sharki #163

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Sharki bow thruster leaking

Rosario Romano <rosario.romano50@...>
 

Hi
I have written to Amel Med for same reason. This is the reply.

================================================================================================
 Bonjour Monsieur Romano,
 
Veuillez m’excuser pour ma réponse tardive.
 
Sur les photos il s’agit bien du propulseur que nous avons installé sur nos bateaux. Pouvez-vous me dire de quelles pièces détachées vous avez besoin, sachant que nous ne pouvons pratiquement  vous fournir que les joints d’étanchéité en ce moment.
 
Cordialement,
Sonja Kessler
================================================================================================
Rosario
Sharki no 183
Arma di Taggia (Italy)



Il Martedì 5 Maggio 2015 12:47, "n33077@... [amelyachtowners]" ha scritto:


 
So last night I posted the pictures of the Sharki bow thruster. New pictures are up in the photo's file under Sharki Bow thruster.  If you zoom in you can see the hairline cracks in the white housing. I wrote to SAV@ Amel to see if they have a replacement unit and / or parts for this bow thruster.  27 years of service ain't too bad,  however it might be time to replace it. 

As a temporary fix, I'm thinking of epoxying the housing, sanding it smooth again and re-installing the seal.  I'd also like to add a zirk fitting and just filling it with grease.  Any thoughts?

Aras
Sharki #163



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Maramu - Main Mast Grounding / Bonding

Beaute Olivier
 

Good afternoon James,

bonding all the metallic items that are in touch with seawater helps fighting galvanic corrosion.
This concerns mainly the items under waterline, but also the fuel tank and freshwater pumps and ...etc...
Bonding the mast will not prevent local galvanic corrosion, like a screw fitted in aluminum, or an aluminum painted mast which gets blisters because stainless steel/bronze/chromium/aluminum are in touch, in a salty environment
Only removing salt of these masts will prevent galvanic corrosion: at every opportunity, you should remove the salt from your masts (and guardrail, and furlers).
The last Super maramu I've inspected was 14 years old, and her painted masts showed absolutely no blisters, especially in the bottom area where several kinds of metals are in touch. Again, the secret is: flush your masts to remove salt.

Bonding the masts could help removing static electricity (which enhances corrosion). The downside is: should an electric wire (positive or negative, from a worn out nav light wire) touch the mast, this would bring power to the bonding and make electrolytic corrosion.
Beware of the quality and wear of your electric wires, everywhere in the vessel.

Enjoy fair winds.

Olivier.



On Sunday, May 10, 2015 6:07 AM, "j.lochhead@... [amelyachtowners]"


 
Thanks Oliver & Bill,
 
 
Fantastic response but I think my question was a little missleading.  I am not so concerned with lightning. (well I am concerned but am off the belief that if it is going to get you a little wire is not going to help much)
 
What I am more worried about is corrosion.  My understanding of the bonding system is not just to be able to determine if there is a leak, but also to protect the important componets (mast, thru hull fittings etc) from corrosion by bonding them to the zinc annodes.  I might be wrong but is the bonding system not connected to the rudder annodes?
 
I am sure that the thru hulls should be bonded (it even looks like perhaps at one point mine may have been) I would also think that bonding the masts, handrails, headsail track etc would help prevent corrosion.  I have recently removed and refitted all the mast fittings and reapplied tef-gel. Even so there was some signs of corrosion starting on the mast. Also there is some corrosion on the headsail track where a stainless bolt passes though it. 
 
This may well be just a case of deteriation on a 30yr old boat, but wouldn't bonding these items help?
 
Thanks again,
 
James
Mahiti Maramu  #147
 

 



Air hose and outboard

Germain Jean-Pierre <jgermain@...>
 

Hi Bill,

I should have known it would be practical… :-)

I’ll do something similar… diving “sans” the entire kit is a blimey good idea.  

I too have a prob with junk in the carb.. made worse by the 1:100 oil mix as my Yammy is 2S.  I reduced the problem a lot when I started to burn all the fuel in the carb prior to storage.  

Process: I haul the engine into the port rail block, then using the bottom part of a discarded balloon fender attached by 3 lines to the rail, I slip the balloon onto the foot and fill it with water, disconnect the fuel line, start the engine and let it run until it runs out of fuel.  I then remove the ballon, ditch the soiled water and place the cover atop the engine.  BASTA… 

Thank you for your idea.


JPG


On 10 May 2015, at 10:10, yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

JP,


I went to a dive shop and told them that I wanted two things:
A fifty foot hose that would attach to my dive tank regulator and a an air-jet nozzle that I could attach to the other end of the hose. I told them I also wanted to be able to attach my octopus to the end of the hose for a quick dive on the propeller, etc.

They sold me what I needed with quick-disconnects to use the new 50 foot hose as an extension so that I could dive without kitting up, leaving the tank on deck...AND...I can attach an air-jet nozzle to that same line for general compressed-air projects on the boat. Of course, a strong jet of air is needed nowadays to clean the reconstituted corn that is left in the outboard engine carburetor by ethanol which is added gasoline. grrrr.

Bill
BeBe 387


Posted by: yahoogroups@...
Reply via web post Reply to sender Reply to group Start a New Topic Messages in this topic (6)


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Water Heater replacing the electric heating element

yahoogroups@...
 

JP,

I went to a dive shop and told them that I wanted two things:
A fifty foot hose that would attach to my dive tank regulator and a an air-jet nozzle that I could attach to the other end of the hose. I told them I also wanted to be able to attach my octopus to the end of the hose for a quick dive on the propeller, etc.

They sold me what I needed with quick-disconnects to use the new 50 foot hose as an extension so that I could dive without kitting up, leaving the tank on deck...AND...I can attach an air-jet nozzle to that same line for general compressed-air projects on the boat. Of course, a strong jet of air is needed nowadays to clean the reconstituted corn that is left in the outboard engine carburetor by ethanol which is added gasoline. grrrr.

Bill
BeBe 387


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Water Heater replacing the electric heating element

Germain Jean-Pierre <jgermain@...>
 

Hi Bill,

I wish to get an air line as you have.  What did you use?

Kind regards,

Jean-Pierre Germain
SY Eleuthera SM 007


On 10 May 2015, at 09:44, yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Eric,


Thanks,

Your suggestion is what should be done if done 100%correctly. I cheated.

I tried a shortcut (me?) that worked. I assumed that the blockage was probably at a ball valve and several pieces of stuff rather than one big piece. I turned off the water and bled the water pressure. Then I removed the galley sink wand from its hose, turned the regulator on the facet to HOT, and used some compressed air to blow the stuff backwards through the wand hose. Then, I turned on the water pump with the galley sink tap fully open to HOT, and out came all of the stuff.

I do not know about anyone else, but I have a air nozzle that I can attach to my dive tanks for cleaning things like carburetors and now galley sinks!

Bill
BeBe 387
Currently Malta on the hard at MIYY


Posted by: yahoogroups@...
Reply via web post Reply to sender Reply to group Start a New Topic Messages in this topic (4)


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Water Heater replacing the electric heating element

yahoogroups@...
 

Eric,

Thanks,

Your suggestion is what should be done if done 100%correctly. I cheated.

I tried a shortcut (me?) that worked. I assumed that the blockage was probably at a ball valve and several pieces of stuff rather than one big piece. I turned off the water and bled the water pressure. Then I removed the galley sink wand from its hose, turned the regulator on the facet to HOT, and used some compressed air to blow the stuff backwards through the wand hose. Then, I turned on the water pump with the galley sink tap fully open to HOT, and out came all of the stuff.

I do not know about anyone else, but I have a air nozzle that I can attach to my dive tanks for cleaning things like carburetors and now galley sinks!

Bill
BeBe 387
Currently Malta on the hard at MIYY


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Water Heater replacing the electric heating element

eric freedman
 

Bill,

My first thought is to follow the hot water line back to where it is somehow joined to the another hot water line that

You know Is working and disconnect it at that point. I would then go to the sink and disconnect the line at that end. I would then somehow affix the sink end of the line to the bell of an air horn and press the button and see what comes out the other end.

I had a similar problem with my fuel tank and the filter inside the tank was clogged with sealant use by Amel. The horn blow the debris away and I was able to make port and fix the tank.

Fair Winds

Eric

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Sunday, May 10, 2015 2:01 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Water Heater replacing the electric heating element

 

 

I should remind you what I forgot yesterday. When replacing the heating element on a Isotemp Basic 40, be sure to order a gasket. A gasket should come with the element, because it will certainly need replacing. Isotemp does NOT include a gasket.

 

BTW, my experience is that these heating elements will last about 6 years, then they will crack, or develop a pin hole which will cause a group fault and that will trip the GF breaker on the side of the 220VAC panel and/or shore power.

 

I had two other issues and the second one of these I am asking for advice:

1.) When I removed the element from the water heater, I used a wet-vac (yes, Bob Rossi) to get all of the sediment out of the water heater. When I examined the content of the wet-vac, I found about 6 large wire-ties....mostly just the big ends of the wire-ties and about 10mm purchase of the small end. These were loose in the bottom of the tank. Has anyone experienced this? My guess is these were used in the manufacturing process and left in the tank.

 

2.) After the work was complete, we started the water pump and bled the air out at the galley sink. The air came out, all is fine on all taps except I can get almost no hot water flow at the galley sink...everywhere else is fine. Obviously, some trash, or a piece of wire tie is clogging that hot water line somewhere. I know it is not the water spray wand at the galley sink that is clogged, because cold water flows fine.

 

Any thoughts? 

 

I am going to start looking in a few hours.

 

Bill

BeBe 387

On the hard Malta MIYY