Hi Bob

Good to hear from you. The prop shaft should be changed every 800
hours. When you bought the boat from me the prop shaft had been
changed less that 50 hours before. You should have detailed shaft
drawings on board. Also, if the u drive oil resevoir looks like there
is a milkshake in it its time to change it.

1- Drain the shaft oil from the drain plug.

2- Remove the prop

3-Remove the bearing by lossening the allen nut and pulling it out.
Note the orientation of the rubber gaskets.

4- Replac the bearing with a new one making sure that the rubber
gaskets are in the same orientation as the old ones. put bck prop and
fill with oil. This is a good time to service the prop.

Thats pretty much it. Its not a complicated job. Much simpler than
replacing an outdrive bearing.

Hope this helps. I will e-mail you an update on my travels.

Vito

Wanderer

I

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, minaxi53 <no_reply@...> wrote:

Can anyone give a detailed description as how the prop bearings are
pulled and replaced. My boatyard mechanic is reluctant to do this as
he has not worked on Amels Drive before.
Vito, I believe you did this a while ago? How are things going? I

see

you made it to the other side so far, drop me an email with your
adventures "bob@..."

Thanks for any info
Bob
Minaxi SM6

Can anyone give a detailed description as how the prop bearings are
pulled and replaced. My boatyard mechanic is reluctant to do this as
he has not worked on Amels Drive before.
Vito, I believe you did this a while ago? How are things going? I see
you made it to the other side so far, drop me an email with your
adventures "bob@bourlet.com"

Thanks for any info
Bob
Minaxi SM6

I switched to propane tanks. This is easily accomplished with standard small propane tanks, but the valve guard must be sortened to fit into the small locker so a welder must be consulted. The propane line fittings are available at any camping store. --Billl Klein Maramu 91 "Popeye"

hello.
on our maramu we have a (quite) small gaslocker just outside the galley.
it has room for two campingaz (blue, 3kg) bottles. has anyone experiance
on avarage consumption (how long will a 3kg-bottle aprx last?) and where
we will get campingaz (around the world). what other ways are used to
get to cooking gas are used? i wouldn't like the idea too much to tie up
one of those huge bottles to our pushpit... we are "newcomers"/just
starting our circumnavigation - thanks for any ideas/hints.
marc, MELMAR Y, maramu #89, www.melmar.ch

Hello Lars,

I am the AMEL associate for the Americas for nearly 25 years
and I have sailed on and sold several Santorins, ketch
mainly, a couple of sloops. The main mast is stepped to the
same spot, the boom is longer and the mast height is the
same. The sloop has a 30 square meter main and a 60 square
meter jib. The ketch has a 26 square meter main, 52 square
met jib and a 13 square meter mizzen. The ketch is much
more pleasant to sail and has better balance once off the
wind 50 º++. The ketch goes to weather the same angle as
the sloop, just not quite as quick as the mizzen is useless
under 50º apparent and just adds drag. Off the wind, the
ketch is much faster. The ketch offers more sail
combinations to match different wind and sea conditions.
The mizzen is a fine place to mount your radar, the mizzen
boom a fine thing to lift outboards and dive gear.

In my experience, the sloop is much more difficult to resell
and sell for at least 15% less than an equivalent ketch.

The Super Maramu was more than 2 times as popular as the
Santorin and is, truly much easier to sail (electric
winches) and twice as comfortable. If you choose to afford
one, it's a better (and more expensive) boat.

That said I would take either model of the Santorin over any
similar sized sailing yacht, but the ketch is a better boat.

Not that I ever have an opinion about anything, mind you…

Good luck with you AMEL search. Super Maramus priced in
Dollars are attractive values for Europeans these days, but
I don't wish to commercialize this very valued owners group
so contact me directly if I can be of service at
jfpottercyw@att.net

Best regards,
Joel F. Potter
AMEL 54, Hull # 14 - HOLLIS




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi PHRF certificate is on this site and can be downloaded.

Vito

asm 283


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, johnabo2003 <no_reply@...>
wrote:

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "John and Anne on Bali

Hai"

<hollamby@> wrote:

Has anyone got any information on handicaps fpr an SM 2000 as I

am

hoping to do a cruiser class race and the committee will think

of a

number if I cannot give any guidance?

Regards, John SM319

Try this web link http://www.almalibre.gr/racing.htm. It was

posted by

a guy who races in Greece. Its a bit hard to read, but if you e-

mail

him he my be able to send more info.

Regards
John

Hi All,

I'm currently considering buying a 1991 Amel Santorin sloop after
having looked for Maramu/Santorins for some time. Now, I'm wondering
about the sloop rig - is it just a ketch without the mizzen mast or is
the sloop ring taller or with a larger mainsail?

Does anyone have experiences with the sloop rig? Is it as effecient as
the ketch or better? Does the sloop-Santorin have the same balance in
the sailplan?

Or is it a handicapped ketch for people that do not want to fiddle
with a mizzen sail?

Any experiences, points of view or actual facts about the sloop rig
will be greatly appreciated.

Best regards,
Lars, Denmark

I will like to see the documentation. Thank you.

Sloop, 1978, No. 229, lying: Switzerland, many extras, one owner,
please ask for the documentation.

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "John and Anne on Bali Hai"
<hollamby@...> wrote:

Has anyone got any information on handicaps fpr an SM 2000 as I am
hoping to do a cruiser class race and the committee will think of a
number if I cannot give any guidance?

Regards, John SM319

Try this web link http://www.almalibre.gr/racing.htm. It was posted by
a guy who races in Greece. Its a bit hard to read, but if you e-mail
him he my be able to send more info.

Regards
John

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "John and Anne on Bali Hai"
<hollamby@...> wrote:

Has anyone got any information on handicaps fpr an SM 2000 as I am
hoping to do a cruiser class race and the committee will think of a
number if I cannot give any guidance?

Regards, John SM319

Try this web link http://www.almalibre.gr/racing.htm. It was posted by
a guy who races in Greece. Its a bit hard to read, but if you e-mail
him he my be able to send more info.

Regards
John

Has anyone got any information on handicaps fpr an SM 2000 as I am
hoping to do a cruiser class race and the committee will think of a
number if I cannot give any guidance?

Regards, John SM319

SM#317, LADY DIVINA IS LOOKING FOR NAVIONIC CHARTS CHIPS THAT WILL FIT A FURUNO NAV NET SYSTEMS (gold system). ALL CHIPS CONSIDERED, BUT LOOKING SPECIFICALLY FOR #8 CARIBBEAN (xl-3 GOLD SYSTEM) THANKS FROM LADY DIVINA
SOLARCONSTRUCTION@YAHOO.COM



---------------------------------
Love cheap thrills? Enjoy PC-to-Phone calls to 30+ countries for just 2¢/min with Yahoo! Messenger with Voice.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

no Murray I am not the same peter pappas, try one of the internet people search sites. like msn to find you friend . good luck peter j pappas

"Dr. Seidel" <mseidel@ec.rr.com> wrote: Is the Peter Pappas the same one who worked in Wilmington, N.C. and played
football for Bear Bryant. Then moved to Birmingham to work at the University
in I.D.?. Murray Seidel mseidel @ec.rr.com

wastegate regulates pressure, be careful or you will
launch the head through the engine room hatch. Of
course you can water or propane inject a diesel and as
long as the head bolts hold up you can keep cranking
out horses but I worry about the 90 degree gear box
that is the amel drive.

--- agav8ter <agav8ter@yahoo.com> wrote:

Hello all,

Been a while since I have been able to get on the
web. A while back
I was asking if everyone that had the Volvo TMD22
and the Amel
Autoprop had trouble getting their engines to rev up
to the published
max RPM in the manual.

Well I found my missing RPM, and it was not the prop
(although I
still think that the prop is overpitched for the
engine.)

I removed the turbo and of course it was plugged
solid with carbon
and "coke". I soaked the exhaust side in brake
fluid for three days
and then got a wrench on the intake side of the
turbine wheel and
started to work it back and forth. After about 30
minutes of this
the wheels where loose enoung to spin freely. I put
it all back
together and took WORLD CITIZEN out for a spin.
Results: before max
RPM 1800, after max 3,000. I feel that if I adjust
the wastegate
actuator I could get more RPM and power. Speed went
from about 6 kts
to a measured 8.6 kts. I am very pleased!! Of
course, now I will
start complaining about the increased fuel
consuption!!!
Downside .... after I put it together and deciding
to run it, I left
the heat shield off so I could better watch for
leaks. Then I took
her out to sea and ran her hard. Of course as I
came back to my
mooring at a sedate idle all was well until I went
to put her in
neutral. Oopps, no neutral, no reverse. The
shifting cable had
layed back across the hot side of the turbo and
melted itself. Oh
well at least I was going slow and did not hit
anyone or burn
myself!!!

Enjoy your Amel's,
Tony
WORLD CITIZEN
SM #266

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

Hi Joel,
Thanks
Fair Winds,
Eric

Hi Eric,

Most any of the better paint/coating companies, such as
INTERLUX, make specific coatings for keels. As the SUPER
MARAMU has an IRON keel (not steel! Iron) the absolute most
important parts of any repair/refinishing is to be sure the
solvents in the new coatings don't "melt" the old coatings,
cut into the old coatings until there is solid adhesion of
the old coatings to the keel, and MOST IMPORTANT, apply the
solvent wash and the primer within minutes of
blasting/grinding the metal clean and bright. Not within an
hour as the directions say, minutes. The reason is iron
starts to oxidize in air immediately. Even some
micro-oxidation will make your re-coating job fail early. I
know from sad experience that this is true. Blast/grind,
solvent wash, coat. As quick as you can do it. Get
helpers.

By the way, if you get the current INTERLUX catalogue,
that's me on the cover in the orange shirt!

All the best,
Joel,
AMEL 54, Hull # 14 - "HOLLIS"

SM#317, LADY DIVINA IS LOOKING FOR USED FURLING MAIN & MIZZEN SAILS IN GOOD CONDITION. NOW LYING CARIBBEAN. ALSO LOOKING FOR USED SUPER MARAMU MAIN MAST WITH ELECTRIC FURLING MOTOR & ELECTRIC FURLING GENOA FURLER.
THANKS FROM LADY DIVINA
SOLARCONSTRUCTION@YAHOO.COM




---------------------------------
Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. PC-to-Phone calls for ridiculously low rates.

Hello all,

Been a while since I have been able to get on the web. A while back
I was asking if everyone that had the Volvo TMD22 and the Amel
Autoprop had trouble getting their engines to rev up to the published
max RPM in the manual.

Well I found my missing RPM, and it was not the prop (although I
still think that the prop is overpitched for the engine.

I removed the turbo and of course it was plugged solid with carbon
and "coke". I soaked the exhaust side in brake fluid for three days
and then got a wrench on the intate side of the turbine wheel and
dtarted to work it back and forth. After about 30 minutes of this
the wheels where loose enoung to spin freely. I put it all back
together and took WORLD CITIZEN out for a spin. Results: before max
RPM 1800, after max 3,000. I feel that if I adjust the wastegate
actuator I could get more RPM and power. Speed went from about 6 kts
to a measured 8.6 kts. I am very pleased!! Of course, now I will
start complaining about the increased fuel consuption!!!
Downside .... after I put it together and decided to run it, I left
the heat shield off so I could better watch for leaks. Then I took
her out to sea and ran her hard. Of course as I came back to my
mooring at a sedate idle all was well until I went to put her in
neutral. Opps, not neutral, no reverse. The shifting cable had
layed back across the hot side of the turbo and melted itself. Oh
well at least I was going slow and did not hit anyone or burn
myself!!!

Enjoy your Amel's,
Tony
WORLD CITIZEN
SM #266

Hello all,

Been a while since I have been able to get on the web. A while back
I was asking if everyone that had the Volvo TMD22 and the Amel
Autoprop had trouble getting their engines to rev up to the published
max RPM in the manual.

Well I found my missing RPM, and it was not the prop (although I
still think that the prop is overpitched for the engine.)

I removed the turbo and of course it was plugged solid with carbon
and "coke". I soaked the exhaust side in brake fluid for three days
and then got a wrench on the intake side of the turbine wheel and
started to work it back and forth. After about 30 minutes of this
the wheels where loose enoung to spin freely. I put it all back
together and took WORLD CITIZEN out for a spin. Results: before max
RPM 1800, after max 3,000. I feel that if I adjust the wastegate
actuator I could get more RPM and power. Speed went from about 6 kts
to a measured 8.6 kts. I am very pleased!! Of course, now I will
start complaining about the increased fuel consuption!!!
Downside .... after I put it together and deciding to run it, I left
the heat shield off so I could better watch for leaks. Then I took
her out to sea and ran her hard. Of course as I came back to my
mooring at a sedate idle all was well until I went to put her in
neutral. Oopps, no neutral, no reverse. The shifting cable had
layed back across the hot side of the turbo and melted itself. Oh
well at least I was going slow and did not hit anyone or burn
myself!!!

Enjoy your Amel's,
Tony
WORLD CITIZEN
SM #266