Date   

leak in clotheswasher

asm283 <no_reply@...>
 

Hello everyone

I have a 2000 SM# 283 with Thomson washer/drier

I have notied a slight leak in my clothes washer drier. I believe its
from the freshwater intake but I cant be sure.

Has anyone had a similar problem. If so how did you fix it.

Has anyone had to remove the clotheswasher. How is this done?

Thanks

Vito


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Maramu - size of battery box?

Horst Pause <horst@...>
 

Thank you for that, this is of great help



Horst - Maramu 168



________________________________

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of coatsken
Sent: 24 April 2006 14:15
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Maramu - size of battery box?



Battery box on Maramu hull 192 is:
Length from inside forward end to pipe block aft: 43.25"
Width: 13.5"
This is compressing the foam that is still in my battery box
on the engine room wall side.
I just changed from gel cells to 6v lead acid golf cart batteries
and am happy so far (about 1 year, live aboard). Maintenence is
minor and cost is far less. Have 6 115 AH for house bank.
Use 1 12v AGM (Lifeline) for engine and am also happy with it.
(about 3 years). Hangs on to its charge well when not used.






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Re: Maramu - size of battery box?

coatsken <goldendaze@...>
 

Battery box on Maramu hull 192 is:
Length from inside forward end to pipe block aft: 43.25"
Width: 13.5"
This is compressing the foam that is still in my battery box
on the engine room wall side.
I just changed from gel cells to 6v lead acid golf cart batteries
and am happy so far (about 1 year, live aboard). Maintenence is
minor and cost is far less. Have 6 115 AH for house bank.
Use 1 12v AGM (Lifeline) for engine and am also happy with it.
(about 3 years). Hangs on to its charge well when not used.


Maramu forestay removal

coatsken <goldendaze@...>
 

I have removed the main to paint and re rig on 1985 Maramu hull # 192.
All is apart except I am having difficulty getting the forestay out of
the furling tube. I have tied the base to a tree and have pulled on the
eye (top end) with a come-a-long up to about 800 pounds or so, (my
guess) and nothing has moved. Thinking corrosion in the tube blocking
the plastic (or nylon) spacers (the gadjets that keep the wire from
touching the inner tube wall) I have poured wd-40 and mineral spirits
down the tube. Still it won't budge. Has anyone got some experience
with this job. Maybe I am overlooking something simple
(or stupid). Need help as am afraid of hurting the furling tube and
compounding my problems.
We had hoped to sail to the Med this May/June, but will postpone until
next year as my time estimates on getting the boat ready have proven
to be somewhat naive.

Thanks,
Ken Coats & Judy Golden
SV Golden Daze
Maramu #192


Maramu - size of battery box?

Horst Pause <horst@...>
 

I need new batteries, but am away from the boat.



Can anyone please measure the battery box, length and width, - I don't
want to end up with having to make a new box!



Thank you



Horst - Maramu 168


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] NAVIONIC NAVNET CHARTS WANTED

Luis I. Gonzalez de Vallejo <l_gonzalezvallejo@...>
 

I have available some Navionics charts, never used because I have change my Furuno by a Simrad, the charts cover the Mediterranean coasts from Turquey , Greece, Italy, Balearics, Spanish Mediterranean coasts, and Atlantic coasts from Holland to Canaries.
If you are interested ,I can give more details,
Regards,
Luis G. de Vallejo



---------------------------------

LLama Gratis a cualquier PC del Mundo.
Llamadas a fijos y móviles desde 1 céntimo por minuto.
http://es.voice.yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


race handicap

svcallisto369
 

For all you loony racers out there in cyberland, you will find a
Southern California PHRF handicap rating from 2004 posted in the file
section of this forum.
There is one error that I did not correct, in that the rating factors
for a lead keel instead of a cast iron keel. I think that this is
probably because cast iron keels are very unusual in the US and there
was no way the calculation could be done.
I would agree that The SM is not much of a windward leeward boat, but
can do fairly well off the wind on random leg races especially if
there is a decent breeze.
The beer, however, is always cold.
Regards,
MDL


You do not have the privileges to perform this operation

eric freedman
 

hi,
i have some photos i would like to post to my photo album on this site
but i get the above message when i try to post. what am i doing wrong.
thanks
eric
sm 376 Kimberlite


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Racing handicap info

Graham Boyd
 

Our SM 140 "Sula" has a Clyde Yacht Club Association handicap of 17.5. From what I have seen this seems about right. We get no where until it blows 15 kts and will win on a reach in 30kts! As the handicap committee said to me, handicapping heavyish cruising yachts is not that easy.

----- Original Message ----
From: John and Anne on Bali Hai <hollamby@compuserve.com>
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, 12 April, 2006 7:18:09 PM
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Racing handicap info


Has anyone got any information on handicaps fpr an SM 2000 as I am
hoping to do a cruiser class race and the committee will think of a
number if I cannot give any guidance?

Regards, John SM319






Yahoo! Groups Links


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Prop shaft bearing

Giovanni TESTA
 

Hi Jan & Judy, and Eric,
I wish to thank all of you,and all the active and less active members of this group, for always very precious supports .
Fair winds...buon vento from MED Venezia.
Gianni Testa
sv EUTIKIA
SM2K # 428

----- Original Message -----
From: eric
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, April 14, 2006 12:43 AM
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Prop shaft bearing


I received this from ian & Judy Jenkins.
Fair Winds,
Eric
Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

HOW TO STRIP DOWN PROPELLER AND STERN GLAND


You will need a 24mm spanner or ratchet in addition to usual tools plus the
following allen keys 3mm, 4mm, 1/8th and 9/64ths.

1. Undo the 3 nylon bolts holding on the red nose. This reveals the
nut secured by an allen key. Round the side of the allen key may need
cleaning. The allen key needs quite a lot of pressure to shift it.
2. Once the allen key is removed, the big central nut will also take a
lot of pressure to undo. You need a block of wood about 12" square and 2"
thick. This rests between one of the prop blades and the horizontal surface
of the keel below to keep the shaft still.
3. Having loosened the big nut, but before it is removed, put in place
the 3-bolt remover. Each of the 3 bolts goes home. Then put a big spanner
on the centre bolt and assist by 'tapping-in' the centre bolt lightly with a
hammer. The bolt takes a lot of shifting, about ¼ of a turn per effort,
tapping also on the shaft between the prop and the prop-cutter (quite hard).
4. When the big bolt turns freely, unscrew the 3-bolt remover, remove
the centre nut and the whole prop.
5. Remove the collar and clean off the outside of the cutter blade.
6. Tap out the key on the stainless steel shaft - tap fore and aft and
it will come.
7. Undo the allen keys on the cutter. NB at least one of these is a
non metric key! ALSO when holding the shaft do so with a rag or glove as
the key-housing is very sharp.
8. Loosen the large nut with a V in it - which is below the stainless
steel shaft. Before removing it put a wide funnel, hose and container under
it. Be prepared for the oil to spurt out. It will take about an hour to
drain. It is not necessary to open the oil reservoir inside the boat.
9. Having removed this large nut and drained the oil, dig out the
narrow seal (against which the inboard end of the nut rests) with a
screw-driver.
10. To put BACK this big nut, check the O ring on it, put silicon on it
plus a new seal to replace the seal taken out under 9. Replace the seal on
the nut shaft with silicon on the boat-side of the seal. When the nut is
tightened up the V should be vertical.
11. To extract the 'wearing out ring' (which I refer to as the bronze
bearing), undo the 2 allen keys and use a screwdriver to lever against the
allen key or tap out the bronze bearing using a hammer and chisel - the
chisel pointing obliquely aft.
12. Once the bronze bearing is out, take a big screw-driver and dig out
the 3 rubber seals.
13. With a small blade clean the surface of the in situ (female) part of
the bearing. Also with sandpaper clean the aft-part of the internal surface
having sealed inboard with some tissue (the seals sit slightly in from the
aft edge of the in situ bearing so there can be a build-up of calcium here).
After cleaning remove tissue!

14. Before replacing bronze bearing with its 3 seals, you need to make
sure that the O ring on the inside of the new bronze bearing will fit
properly. To do so, push the new bronze bearing home without fitting the
seals. It should go with a hard push from your hands. If it doesn't, try a
different O ring, as they are not all absolutely identical.
15. Once you are happy with the O ring fit, fill each rubber seal with
grease plus a very small amount on the edge of the in situ bearing to assist
entry. Use the old bronze bearing to push in the first, subsequently the
second and subsequently the third (i.e. do not put all 3 in at the same
time) NB The first 2 seals have the hollow section facing forward, the
3rd has the hollow section facing aft. ALSO it helps in
tapping home the old bronze bearing to use a pipe with a greater diameter
than the shaft, one end of which you can rest against the outer face of the
old bronze bearing and the other end of which you can tap with a hammer.
16. Having tapped home the 3 seals so that the 3rd seal is about 10mm
inset, remove the old bronze bearing and push in the new bearing so that it
is hard up against the outboard seal. THEN ease the bronze bearing aft 2mm
so that it is not actually touching the seal. This will leave the 2 allen
keys on the bronze bearing about 2 to 3 mm aft of the in situ bearing and
the widest part of the bronze bearing will be about 2mm inside the in situ
bearing. Tighten these allen keys.
17. Replace the thin rubber ring on the shaft ahead of the stripper.
18. Fit a new anode on the stripper. When reassembled this anode fits
inside the V on the big nut. Tighten the two pairs of allen keys to secure
the stripper to the shaft.
19. Replace the rubber ring aft of the stripper.
20. Replace the key in the stainless steel shaft.
21. Clean the inside of the prop and put the prop back on the shaft,
lining up the slot on the prop with the key. Tighten up the 24mm nut really
tight, to fasten the prop to the shaft and replace the allen key against a
flat side of the nut using Loctite.
22. Replace the nylon nose without greasing the 3 nylon nuts.
23. Take this opportunity to re-grease the prop through the allen key
holes on each blade and hub. These do not need Loctite on replacement.
24. Refill the leg with 15w40 oil through the reservoir - it will take 8
to 9 litres.
25. When draining the BOW THRUSTER TUBE capture the oil in a transparent
container to see if there is any water in it. If there is, change the seal
between the prop and the leg.




-----Original Message-----
From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of minaxi53
Sent: Thursday, April 13, 2006 3:34 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Prop shaft bearing

Can anyone give a detailed description as how the prop bearings are
pulled and replaced. My boatyard mechanic is reluctant to do this as
he has not worked on Amels Drive before.
Vito, I believe you did this a while ago? How are things going? I see
you made it to the other side so far, drop me an email with your
adventures "bob@bourlet.com"

Thanks for any info
Bob
Minaxi SM6







Yahoo! Groups Links








SPONSORED LINKS Sailing Sailing yacht Amel
Boating sailing


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spade anchor refit (RECALL ?)

eric freedman
 

I found this on cruising forum website.

Fair Winds,

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite







Despite doubts over the case, Spade have agreed to modify future bolts, as
recommended by the investigator, to include a pin after the nut and a note
advising that "Nyloc" style nuts should only be used once. (There is no need
to replace the nut after each deployment, but every time the anchor is
dismantled). Existing owners are advised that if they have any concerns
about their nuts, that they arrange for the end of the bolt to be drilled
and have a pin and new "Nyloc" style nut fitted. It is the owners'
responsibility to ensure that the nut & bolt (or alternative) are in good
condition, secure and suitable for the purpose. It must be emphasized that
thousands of Spade Anchors have been sold since 9 years, and that no similar
cases have been reported.


NAVIONIC NAVNET CHARTS WANTED

L. CAMERON <solarconstruction@...>
 

SM#317, LADY DIVINA IS LOOKING FOR NAVIONIC CHARTS CHIPS THAT WILL FIT A FURUNO NAV NET SYSTEMS (classic) All CHIPS CONSIDERED, BUT
LOOKING SPECIFICALLY FOR panama > trinidad # SA-020XL)
THANKS FROM LADY DIVINA, LYING ST. MARTIN
SOLARCONSTRUCTION@YAHOO.COM



amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com wrote:
There are 15 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. NAVIONIC CHARTS WANTED
From: "L. CAMERON"
2. Racing handicap info
From: "John and Anne on Bali Hai"
3. Re: Racing handicap info
From: johnabo2003
4. Re: Racing handicap info
From: johnabo2003
5. Kirk for Sale
From: "syhanaleism"
6. Re: Kirk for Sale
From: "RFC_SAIL"
7. Santorin Sloop - Experiences and facts?
From: "hrkaptajn"
8. Re: Racing handicap info
From: asm283
9. RE: Santorin Sloop - Experiences and facts?
From: "Joel F. Potter"
10. gas supplies (campingaz)
From: "sy melmar y"
11. Re: gas supplies (campingaz)
From: "WILLIAM KLEIN"
12. Prop shaft bearing
From: minaxi53
13. Re: Prop shaft bearing
From: asm283
14. RE: Prop shaft bearing
From: eric
15. Prop shaft bearing
From: "John and Anne on Bali Hai"


________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 1
Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2006 11:30:04 -0700 (PDT)
From: "L. CAMERON"
Subject: NAVIONIC CHARTS WANTED

SM#317, LADY DIVINA IS LOOKING FOR NAVIONIC CHARTS CHIPS THAT WILL FIT A FURUNO NAV NET SYSTEMS (gold system). ALL CHIPS CONSIDERED, BUT LOOKING SPECIFICALLY FOR #8 CARIBBEAN (xl-3 GOLD SYSTEM) THANKS FROM LADY DIVINA
SOLARCONSTRUCTION@YAHOO.COM



---------------------------------
Love cheap thrills? Enjoy PC-to-Phone calls to 30+ countries for just 2¢/min with Yahoo! Messenger with Voice.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 2
Date: Wed, 12 Apr 2006 11:18:09 -0000
From: "John and Anne on Bali Hai"
Subject: Racing handicap info

Has anyone got any information on handicaps fpr an SM 2000 as I am
hoping to do a cruiser class race and the committee will think of a
number if I cannot give any guidance?

Regards, John SM319





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 3
Date: Wed, 12 Apr 2006 14:39:43 -0000
From: johnabo2003
Subject: Re: Racing handicap info

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "John and Anne on Bali Hai"
wrote:

Has anyone got any information on handicaps fpr an SM 2000 as I am
hoping to do a cruiser class race and the committee will think of a
number if I cannot give any guidance?

Regards, John SM319
Try this web link http://www.almalibre.gr/racing.htm. It was posted by
a guy who races in Greece. Its a bit hard to read, but if you e-mail
him he my be able to send more info.

Regards
John






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 4
Date: Wed, 12 Apr 2006 14:39:11 -0000
From: johnabo2003
Subject: Re: Racing handicap info

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "John and Anne on Bali Hai"
wrote:

Has anyone got any information on handicaps fpr an SM 2000 as I am
hoping to do a cruiser class race and the committee will think of a
number if I cannot give any guidance?

Regards, John SM319
Try this web link http://www.almalibre.gr/racing.htm. It was posted by
a guy who races in Greece. Its a bit hard to read, but if you e-mail
him he my be able to send more info.

Regards
John






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 5
Date: Wed, 12 Apr 2006 15:01:40 -0000
From: "syhanaleism"
Subject: Kirk for Sale

Sloop, 1978, No. 229, lying: Switzerland, many extras, one owner,
please ask for the documentation.





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 6
Date: Wed, 12 Apr 2006 17:23:04 +0200
From: "RFC_SAIL"
Subject: Re: Kirk for Sale

I will like to see the documentation. Thank you.

----- Original Message -----
From: "syhanaleism"
To:
Sent: Wednesday, April 12, 2006 17:01
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Kirk for Sale


Sloop, 1978, No. 229, lying: Switzerland, many extras, one owner,
please ask for the documentation.






Yahoo! Groups Links








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 7
Date: Wed, 12 Apr 2006 16:19:35 -0000
From: "hrkaptajn"
Subject: Santorin Sloop - Experiences and facts?

Hi All,

I'm currently considering buying a 1991 Amel Santorin sloop after
having looked for Maramu/Santorins for some time. Now, I'm wondering
about the sloop rig - is it just a ketch without the mizzen mast or is
the sloop ring taller or with a larger mainsail?

Does anyone have experiences with the sloop rig? Is it as effecient as
the ketch or better? Does the sloop-Santorin have the same balance in
the sailplan?

Or is it a handicapped ketch for people that do not want to fiddle
with a mizzen sail?

Any experiences, points of view or actual facts about the sloop rig
will be greatly appreciated.

Best regards,
Lars, Denmark





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 8
Date: Wed, 12 Apr 2006 20:40:48 -0000
From: asm283
Subject: Re: Racing handicap info

Hi PHRF certificate is on this site and can be downloaded.

Vito

asm 283


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, johnabo2003
wrote:

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "John and Anne on Bali
Hai"
wrote:

Has anyone got any information on handicaps fpr an SM 2000 as I
am
hoping to do a cruiser class race and the committee will think
of a
number if I cannot give any guidance?

Regards, John SM319
Try this web link http://www.almalibre.gr/racing.htm. It was
posted by
a guy who races in Greece. Its a bit hard to read, but if you e-
mail
him he my be able to send more info.

Regards
John





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 9
Date: Wed, 12 Apr 2006 17:19:16 -0400
From: "Joel F. Potter"
Subject: RE: Santorin Sloop - Experiences and facts?

Hello Lars,

I am the AMEL associate for the Americas for nearly 25 years
and I have sailed on and sold several Santorins, ketch
mainly, a couple of sloops. The main mast is stepped to the
same spot, the boom is longer and the mast height is the
same. The sloop has a 30 square meter main and a 60 square
meter jib. The ketch has a 26 square meter main, 52 square
met jib and a 13 square meter mizzen. The ketch is much
more pleasant to sail and has better balance once off the
wind 50 º++. The ketch goes to weather the same angle as
the sloop, just not quite as quick as the mizzen is useless
under 50º apparent and just adds drag. Off the wind, the
ketch is much faster. The ketch offers more sail
combinations to match different wind and sea conditions.
The mizzen is a fine place to mount your radar, the mizzen
boom a fine thing to lift outboards and dive gear.

In my experience, the sloop is much more difficult to resell
and sell for at least 15% less than an equivalent ketch.

The Super Maramu was more than 2 times as popular as the
Santorin and is, truly much easier to sail (electric
winches) and twice as comfortable. If you choose to afford
one, it's a better (and more expensive) boat.

That said I would take either model of the Santorin over any
similar sized sailing yacht, but the ketch is a better boat.

Not that I ever have an opinion about anything, mind you…

Good luck with you AMEL search. Super Maramus priced in
Dollars are attractive values for Europeans these days, but
I don't wish to commercialize this very valued owners group
so contact me directly if I can be of service at
jfpottercyw@att.net

Best regards,
Joel F. Potter
AMEL 54, Hull # 14 - HOLLIS








________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 10
Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2006 09:36:58 +0200
From: "sy melmar y"
Subject: gas supplies (campingaz)

hello.
on our maramu we have a (quite) small gaslocker just outside the galley.
it has room for two campingaz (blue, 3kg) bottles. has anyone experiance
on avarage consumption (how long will a 3kg-bottle aprx last?) and where
we will get campingaz (around the world). what other ways are used to
get to cooking gas are used? i wouldn't like the idea too much to tie up
one of those huge bottles to our pushpit... we are "newcomers"/just
starting our circumnavigation - thanks for any ideas/hints.
marc, MELMAR Y, maramu #89, www.melmar.ch




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 11
Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2006 05:59:04 -0400
From: "WILLIAM KLEIN"
Subject: Re: gas supplies (campingaz)

I switched to propane tanks. This is easily accomplished with standard small propane tanks, but the valve guard must be sortened to fit into the small locker so a welder must be consulted. The propane line fittings are available at any camping store. --Billl Klein Maramu 91 "Popeye"
----- Original Message -----
From: sy melmar y
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, April 13, 2006 3:36 AM
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] gas supplies (campingaz)


hello.
on our maramu we have a (quite) small gaslocker just outside the galley.
it has room for two campingaz (blue, 3kg) bottles. has anyone experiance
on avarage consumption (how long will a 3kg-bottle aprx last?) and where
we will get campingaz (around the world). what other ways are used to
get to cooking gas are used? i wouldn't like the idea too much to tie up
one of those huge bottles to our pushpit... we are "newcomers"/just
starting our circumnavigation - thanks for any ideas/hints.
marc, MELMAR Y, maramu #89, www.melmar.ch




SPONSORED LINKS Sailing Sailing yacht Amel
Boating sailing


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a.. Visit your group "amelyachtowners" on the web.

b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.


------------------------------------------------------------------------------



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 12
Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2006 19:34:02 -0000
From: minaxi53
Subject: Prop shaft bearing

Can anyone give a detailed description as how the prop bearings are
pulled and replaced. My boatyard mechanic is reluctant to do this as
he has not worked on Amels Drive before.
Vito, I believe you did this a while ago? How are things going? I see
you made it to the other side so far, drop me an email with your
adventures "bob@bourlet.com"

Thanks for any info
Bob
Minaxi SM6






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 13
Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2006 20:43:04 -0000
From: asm283
Subject: Re: Prop shaft bearing

Hi Bob

Good to hear from you. The prop shaft should be changed every 800
hours. When you bought the boat from me the prop shaft had been
changed less that 50 hours before. You should have detailed shaft
drawings on board. Also, if the u drive oil resevoir looks like there
is a milkshake in it its time to change it.

1- Drain the shaft oil from the drain plug.

2- Remove the prop

3-Remove the bearing by lossening the allen nut and pulling it out.
Note the orientation of the rubber gaskets.

4- Replac the bearing with a new one making sure that the rubber
gaskets are in the same orientation as the old ones. put bck prop and
fill with oil. This is a good time to service the prop.

Thats pretty much it. Its not a complicated job. Much simpler than
replacing an outdrive bearing.

Hope this helps. I will e-mail you an update on my travels.

Vito

Wanderer

I

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, minaxi53 wrote:

Can anyone give a detailed description as how the prop bearings are
pulled and replaced. My boatyard mechanic is reluctant to do this as
he has not worked on Amels Drive before.
Vito, I believe you did this a while ago? How are things going? I
see
you made it to the other side so far, drop me an email with your
adventures "bob@..."

Thanks for any info
Bob
Minaxi SM6






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 14
Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2006 18:43:03 -0400
From: eric
Subject: RE: Prop shaft bearing

I received this from ian & Judy Jenkins.
Fair Winds,
Eric
Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

HOW TO STRIP DOWN PROPELLER AND STERN GLAND


You will need a 24mm spanner or ratchet in addition to usual tools plus the
following allen keys 3mm, 4mm, 1/8th and 9/64ths.

1. Undo the 3 nylon bolts holding on the red nose. This reveals the
nut secured by an allen key. Round the side of the allen key may need
cleaning. The allen key needs quite a lot of pressure to shift it.
2. Once the allen key is removed, the big central nut will also take a
lot of pressure to undo. You need a block of wood about 12” square and 2”
thick. This rests between one of the prop blades and the horizontal surface
of the keel below to keep the shaft still.
3. Having loosened the big nut, but before it is removed, put in place
the 3-bolt remover. Each of the 3 bolts goes home. Then put a big spanner
on the centre bolt and assist by ‘tapping-in’ the centre bolt lightly with a
hammer. The bolt takes a lot of shifting, about ¼ of a turn per effort,
tapping also on the shaft between the prop and the prop-cutter (quite hard).
4. When the big bolt turns freely, unscrew the 3-bolt remover, remove
the centre nut and the whole prop.
5. Remove the collar and clean off the outside of the cutter blade.
6. Tap out the key on the stainless steel shaft – tap fore and aft and
it will come.
7. Undo the allen keys on the cutter. NB at least one of these is a
non metric key! ALSO when holding the shaft do so with a rag or glove as
the key-housing is very sharp.
8. Loosen the large nut with a V in it - which is below the stainless
steel shaft. Before removing it put a wide funnel, hose and container under
it. Be prepared for the oil to spurt out. It will take about an hour to
drain. It is not necessary to open the oil reservoir inside the boat.
9. Having removed this large nut and drained the oil, dig out the
narrow seal (against which the inboard end of the nut rests) with a
screw-driver.
10. To put BACK this big nut, check the O ring on it, put silicon on it
plus a new seal to replace the seal taken out under 9. Replace the seal on
the nut shaft with silicon on the boat-side of the seal. When the nut is
tightened up the V should be vertical.
11. To extract the ‘wearing out ring’ (which I refer to as the bronze
bearing), undo the 2 allen keys and use a screwdriver to lever against the
allen key or tap out the bronze bearing using a hammer and chisel - the
chisel pointing obliquely aft.
12. Once the bronze bearing is out, take a big screw-driver and dig out
the 3 rubber seals.
13. With a small blade clean the surface of the in situ (female) part of
the bearing. Also with sandpaper clean the aft-part of the internal surface
having sealed inboard with some tissue (the seals sit slightly in from the
aft edge of the in situ bearing so there can be a build-up of calcium here).
After cleaning remove tissue!

14. Before replacing bronze bearing with its 3 seals, you need to make
sure that the O ring on the inside of the new bronze bearing will fit
properly. To do so, push the new bronze bearing home without fitting the
seals. It should go with a hard push from your hands. If it doesn’t, try a
different O ring, as they are not all absolutely identical.
15. Once you are happy with the O ring fit, fill each rubber seal with
grease plus a very small amount on the edge of the in situ bearing to assist
entry. Use the old bronze bearing to push in the first, subsequently the
second and subsequently the third (i.e. do not put all 3 in at the same
time) NB The first 2 seals have the hollow section facing forward, the
3rd has the hollow section facing aft. ALSO it helps in
tapping home the old bronze bearing to use a pipe with a greater diameter
than the shaft, one end of which you can rest against the outer face of the
old bronze bearing and the other end of which you can tap with a hammer.
16. Having tapped home the 3 seals so that the 3rd seal is about 10mm
inset, remove the old bronze bearing and push in the new bearing so that it
is hard up against the outboard seal. THEN ease the bronze bearing aft 2mm
so that it is not actually touching the seal. This will leave the 2 allen
keys on the bronze bearing about 2 to 3 mm aft of the in situ bearing and
the widest part of the bronze bearing will be about 2mm inside the in situ
bearing. Tighten these allen keys.
17. Replace the thin rubber ring on the shaft ahead of the stripper.
18. Fit a new anode on the stripper. When reassembled this anode fits
inside the V on the big nut. Tighten the two pairs of allen keys to secure
the stripper to the shaft.
19. Replace the rubber ring aft of the stripper.
20. Replace the key in the stainless steel shaft.
21. Clean the inside of the prop and put the prop back on the shaft,
lining up the slot on the prop with the key. Tighten up the 24mm nut really
tight, to fasten the prop to the shaft and replace the allen key against a
flat side of the nut using Loctite.
22. Replace the nylon nose without greasing the 3 nylon nuts.
23. Take this opportunity to re-grease the prop through the allen key
holes on each blade and hub. These do not need Loctite on replacement.
24. Refill the leg with 15w40 oil through the reservoir – it will take 8
to 9 litres.
25. When draining the BOW THRUSTER TUBE capture the oil in a transparent
container to see if there is any water in it. If there is, change the seal
between the prop and the leg.




-----Original Message-----
From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of minaxi53
Sent: Thursday, April 13, 2006 3:34 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Prop shaft bearing

Can anyone give a detailed description as how the prop bearings are
pulled and replaced. My boatyard mechanic is reluctant to do this as
he has not worked on Amels Drive before.

=== message truncated ===


---------------------------------
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Re: gas supplies (campingaz)

svenchante <svenchante@...>
 

On our '80 Maramu we gave up on the small camp gas bottles and
installed aluminum propane bottles in the locker on the back deck.
The locker was already vented. A long propane hose was run through
the inside of the boat along the port side to the galley. Holes were
drilled in the top corner of each aft cabin and head locker the holes
passed through. Appropriate sized, clear water hose was wire tied
around the propane hose when it passed through a hole. A propane
solenoid cutoff switch was installed in the galley and it's duplex,
shielded wire followed the same route. Goop the hole at the locker
with silicon. Also, use a short, 3-foot propane hose to go from your
long hose to the bottles. If you have any chaffing problems,
replacing this short hose is easier and cheaper than the longer one.
The hose looked odd when first installed in empty lockers. As you
fill the boat with supplies for your cruise you'll never notice or
think about the it again.

The back locker easily holds aluminum, upright bottles with lots of
room for 2-cycle oil, etc. We have two 10# bottles and one 20# which
gives us about 6-month supply for our 3-burner Force 10 stove - almost
all meals and some baking onboard. All through the Carib. and the S.
Pacific to Australia we have never had a problem with special fittings
for American style gas valves.

An interesting part of our cruising log is a record of what we were in
the process of cooking when the bottle ran out of gas. Looking
through this record brings such fond memories as almost ready morning
coffee on a chilly rainy day.

Regards,

Carl Strange
S/V Enchante
(Hi Joel!)


Prop shaft bearing

John and Anne on Bali Hai <hollamby@...>
 

Hello all,
I entered prop shaft bearing in the search box and read many previous
references without finding the one I wanted. The detailed description
just posted is excellent but a long time ago someone suggested that to
remove the old oil seals you should drill a small hole either side and
then screw in two long screws which will make it easy to pull each
seal out.
It works!! The bronze bit is called a wearing ring by Amel because it
is not a bearing but merely a device to seal the oil in and the water
out. Before fitting a new one I had a local machine shop make me
another as a spare as the dimensions are not all that critical since
it is only an O ring holder. Someone also suggested that when the
puller is in place on the prop and really tight a couple of taps with
a hammer will make the prop break free. It worked for me.

Regards, John SM 319


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Prop shaft bearing

eric freedman
 

I received this from ian & Judy Jenkins.
Fair Winds,
Eric
Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

HOW TO STRIP DOWN PROPELLER AND STERN GLAND


You will need a 24mm spanner or ratchet in addition to usual tools plus the
following allen keys 3mm, 4mm, 1/8th and 9/64ths.

1. Undo the 3 nylon bolts holding on the red nose. This reveals the
nut secured by an allen key. Round the side of the allen key may need
cleaning. The allen key needs quite a lot of pressure to shift it.
2. Once the allen key is removed, the big central nut will also take a
lot of pressure to undo. You need a block of wood about 12” square and 2”
thick. This rests between one of the prop blades and the horizontal surface
of the keel below to keep the shaft still.
3. Having loosened the big nut, but before it is removed, put in place
the 3-bolt remover. Each of the 3 bolts goes home. Then put a big spanner
on the centre bolt and assist by ‘tapping-in’ the centre bolt lightly with a
hammer. The bolt takes a lot of shifting, about ¼ of a turn per effort,
tapping also on the shaft between the prop and the prop-cutter (quite hard).
4. When the big bolt turns freely, unscrew the 3-bolt remover, remove
the centre nut and the whole prop.
5. Remove the collar and clean off the outside of the cutter blade.
6. Tap out the key on the stainless steel shaft – tap fore and aft and
it will come.
7. Undo the allen keys on the cutter. NB at least one of these is a
non metric key! ALSO when holding the shaft do so with a rag or glove as
the key-housing is very sharp.
8. Loosen the large nut with a V in it - which is below the stainless
steel shaft. Before removing it put a wide funnel, hose and container under
it. Be prepared for the oil to spurt out. It will take about an hour to
drain. It is not necessary to open the oil reservoir inside the boat.
9. Having removed this large nut and drained the oil, dig out the
narrow seal (against which the inboard end of the nut rests) with a
screw-driver.
10. To put BACK this big nut, check the O ring on it, put silicon on it
plus a new seal to replace the seal taken out under 9. Replace the seal on
the nut shaft with silicon on the boat-side of the seal. When the nut is
tightened up the V should be vertical.
11. To extract the ‘wearing out ring’ (which I refer to as the bronze
bearing), undo the 2 allen keys and use a screwdriver to lever against the
allen key or tap out the bronze bearing using a hammer and chisel - the
chisel pointing obliquely aft.
12. Once the bronze bearing is out, take a big screw-driver and dig out
the 3 rubber seals.
13. With a small blade clean the surface of the in situ (female) part of
the bearing. Also with sandpaper clean the aft-part of the internal surface
having sealed inboard with some tissue (the seals sit slightly in from the
aft edge of the in situ bearing so there can be a build-up of calcium here).
After cleaning remove tissue!

14. Before replacing bronze bearing with its 3 seals, you need to make
sure that the O ring on the inside of the new bronze bearing will fit
properly. To do so, push the new bronze bearing home without fitting the
seals. It should go with a hard push from your hands. If it doesn’t, try a
different O ring, as they are not all absolutely identical.
15. Once you are happy with the O ring fit, fill each rubber seal with
grease plus a very small amount on the edge of the in situ bearing to assist
entry. Use the old bronze bearing to push in the first, subsequently the
second and subsequently the third (i.e. do not put all 3 in at the same
time) NB The first 2 seals have the hollow section facing forward, the
3rd has the hollow section facing aft. ALSO it helps in
tapping home the old bronze bearing to use a pipe with a greater diameter
than the shaft, one end of which you can rest against the outer face of the
old bronze bearing and the other end of which you can tap with a hammer.
16. Having tapped home the 3 seals so that the 3rd seal is about 10mm
inset, remove the old bronze bearing and push in the new bearing so that it
is hard up against the outboard seal. THEN ease the bronze bearing aft 2mm
so that it is not actually touching the seal. This will leave the 2 allen
keys on the bronze bearing about 2 to 3 mm aft of the in situ bearing and
the widest part of the bronze bearing will be about 2mm inside the in situ
bearing. Tighten these allen keys.
17. Replace the thin rubber ring on the shaft ahead of the stripper.
18. Fit a new anode on the stripper. When reassembled this anode fits
inside the V on the big nut. Tighten the two pairs of allen keys to secure
the stripper to the shaft.
19. Replace the rubber ring aft of the stripper.
20. Replace the key in the stainless steel shaft.
21. Clean the inside of the prop and put the prop back on the shaft,
lining up the slot on the prop with the key. Tighten up the 24mm nut really
tight, to fasten the prop to the shaft and replace the allen key against a
flat side of the nut using Loctite.
22. Replace the nylon nose without greasing the 3 nylon nuts.
23. Take this opportunity to re-grease the prop through the allen key
holes on each blade and hub. These do not need Loctite on replacement.
24. Refill the leg with 15w40 oil through the reservoir – it will take 8
to 9 litres.
25. When draining the BOW THRUSTER TUBE capture the oil in a transparent
container to see if there is any water in it. If there is, change the seal
between the prop and the leg.

-----Original Message-----
From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of minaxi53
Sent: Thursday, April 13, 2006 3:34 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Prop shaft bearing

Can anyone give a detailed description as how the prop bearings are
pulled and replaced. My boatyard mechanic is reluctant to do this as
he has not worked on Amels Drive before.
Vito, I believe you did this a while ago? How are things going? I see
you made it to the other side so far, drop me an email with your
adventures "bob@bourlet.com"

Thanks for any info
Bob
Minaxi SM6







Yahoo! Groups Links


Re: Prop shaft bearing

asm283 <no_reply@...>
 

Hi Bob

Good to hear from you. The prop shaft should be changed every 800
hours. When you bought the boat from me the prop shaft had been
changed less that 50 hours before. You should have detailed shaft
drawings on board. Also, if the u drive oil resevoir looks like there
is a milkshake in it its time to change it.

1- Drain the shaft oil from the drain plug.

2- Remove the prop

3-Remove the bearing by lossening the allen nut and pulling it out.
Note the orientation of the rubber gaskets.

4- Replac the bearing with a new one making sure that the rubber
gaskets are in the same orientation as the old ones. put bck prop and
fill with oil. This is a good time to service the prop.

Thats pretty much it. Its not a complicated job. Much simpler than
replacing an outdrive bearing.

Hope this helps. I will e-mail you an update on my travels.

Vito

Wanderer

I

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, minaxi53 <no_reply@...> wrote:

Can anyone give a detailed description as how the prop bearings are
pulled and replaced. My boatyard mechanic is reluctant to do this as
he has not worked on Amels Drive before.
Vito, I believe you did this a while ago? How are things going? I
see
you made it to the other side so far, drop me an email with your
adventures "bob@..."

Thanks for any info
Bob
Minaxi SM6


Prop shaft bearing

minaxi53 <no_reply@...>
 

Can anyone give a detailed description as how the prop bearings are
pulled and replaced. My boatyard mechanic is reluctant to do this as
he has not worked on Amels Drive before.
Vito, I believe you did this a while ago? How are things going? I see
you made it to the other side so far, drop me an email with your
adventures "bob@bourlet.com"

Thanks for any info
Bob
Minaxi SM6


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] gas supplies (campingaz)

WILLIAM KLEIN <sidecar1@...>
 

I switched to propane tanks. This is easily accomplished with standard small propane tanks, but the valve guard must be sortened to fit into the small locker so a welder must be consulted. The propane line fittings are available at any camping store. --Billl Klein Maramu 91 "Popeye"

----- Original Message -----
From: sy melmar y
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, April 13, 2006 3:36 AM
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] gas supplies (campingaz)


hello.
on our maramu we have a (quite) small gaslocker just outside the galley.
it has room for two campingaz (blue, 3kg) bottles. has anyone experiance
on avarage consumption (how long will a 3kg-bottle aprx last?) and where
we will get campingaz (around the world). what other ways are used to
get to cooking gas are used? i wouldn't like the idea too much to tie up
one of those huge bottles to our pushpit... we are "newcomers"/just
starting our circumnavigation - thanks for any ideas/hints.
marc, MELMAR Y, maramu #89, www.melmar.ch




SPONSORED LINKS Sailing Sailing yacht Amel
Boating sailing


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gas supplies (campingaz)

sy melmar y <newsgroup@...>
 

hello.
on our maramu we have a (quite) small gaslocker just outside the galley.
it has room for two campingaz (blue, 3kg) bottles. has anyone experiance
on avarage consumption (how long will a 3kg-bottle aprx last?) and where
we will get campingaz (around the world). what other ways are used to
get to cooking gas are used? i wouldn't like the idea too much to tie up
one of those huge bottles to our pushpit... we are "newcomers"/just
starting our circumnavigation - thanks for any ideas/hints.
marc, MELMAR Y, maramu #89, www.melmar.ch


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Santorin Sloop - Experiences and facts?

amelforme
 

Hello Lars,

I am the AMEL associate for the Americas for nearly 25 years
and I have sailed on and sold several Santorins, ketch
mainly, a couple of sloops. The main mast is stepped to the
same spot, the boom is longer and the mast height is the
same. The sloop has a 30 square meter main and a 60 square
meter jib. The ketch has a 26 square meter main, 52 square
met jib and a 13 square meter mizzen. The ketch is much
more pleasant to sail and has better balance once off the
wind 50 º++. The ketch goes to weather the same angle as
the sloop, just not quite as quick as the mizzen is useless
under 50º apparent and just adds drag. Off the wind, the
ketch is much faster. The ketch offers more sail
combinations to match different wind and sea conditions.
The mizzen is a fine place to mount your radar, the mizzen
boom a fine thing to lift outboards and dive gear.

In my experience, the sloop is much more difficult to resell
and sell for at least 15% less than an equivalent ketch.

The Super Maramu was more than 2 times as popular as the
Santorin and is, truly much easier to sail (electric
winches) and twice as comfortable. If you choose to afford
one, it's a better (and more expensive) boat.

That said I would take either model of the Santorin over any
similar sized sailing yacht, but the ketch is a better boat.

Not that I ever have an opinion about anything, mind you…

Good luck with you AMEL search. Super Maramus priced in
Dollars are attractive values for Europeans these days, but
I don't wish to commercialize this very valued owners group
so contact me directly if I can be of service at
jfpottercyw@att.net

Best regards,
Joel F. Potter
AMEL 54, Hull # 14 - HOLLIS




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