Date   

New file uploaded to amelyachtowners

amelyachtowners@...
 

Hello,


This email message is a notification to let you know that
a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the amelyachtowners
group.


File : /AutoProp Maintenance & Overhaul/AutoProp Roller Bearing Replacement Kit 2012.doc
Uploaded by : svbebe <yahoogroups@svbebe.com>
Description :


You can access this file at the URL:
https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/amelyachtowners/files/AutoProp%20Maintenance%20%26%20Overhaul/AutoProp%20Roller%20Bearing%20Replacement%20Kit%202012.doc


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New file uploaded to amelyachtowners

amelyachtowners@...
 

Hello,


This email message is a notification to let you know that
a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the amelyachtowners
group.


File : /AutoProp Maintenance & Overhaul/AutoProp Inner Race Removal Questionable procedure.PDF
Uploaded by : svbebe <yahoogroups@svbebe.com>
Description :


You can access this file at the URL:
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New file uploaded to amelyachtowners

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Hello,


This email message is a notification to let you know that
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File : /AutoProp Maintenance & Overhaul/AutoProp H6 RB TS Installation & Maintenance Instructions.doc
Uploaded by : svbebe <yahoogroups@svbebe.com>
Description :


You can access this file at the URL:
https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/amelyachtowners/files/AutoProp%20Maintenance%20%26%20Overhaul/AutoProp%20H6%20RB%20TS%20Installation%20%26%20Maintenance%20Instructions.doc


To learn more about file sharing for your group, please visit:
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: H6 AutoProp Overhaul Instructions/Parts Info Posted in Files Section

Andrew & Kate Lamb
 

Alexandre

 

Many thanks – that’s a great page with the overhaul guide and Gary’s documents, together with Eric’s comments,  I now have a much clearer understanding – as I understand it the side blade grease point must enter behind the upper part of the thrust race and this just must be clogged with grease and debris – so once I have managed to remove this sand cleaned the blade it should be patent again.

 

Many thanks

 

Andrew

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Sunday, May 24, 2015 3:04 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: H6 AutoProp Overhaul Instructions/Parts Info Posted in Files Section

 

 

Good evening Andrew,

Looks like Eric answered your questions.

I just had my H6 Aito prop rebuild, there was 1 bearing a little stiff. I gain 200 rpm (full throttle).
The person that rebuild mine, said every 2000 engine hours, other say every 10 years…

I posted some files and pictures on:
http://nikimat.com/auto_prop_h6.html

The file will help you, the pictures will help for the removal, etc. but not the rebuild as I hired someone.
(My philosophy in not rebuilding myself was: it is done so rarely, I rather have someone familiar with it doing it - if it had been something done every other year, I would have learnt).

Hope that help a little.

Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Taino Beach, Port Lucaya, Grand Bahama, Bahamas.

--------------------------------------------
On Sat, 5/23/15, andrew.lamb@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: H6 AutoProp Overhaul Instructions/Parts Info Posted in Files Section
To: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Saturday, May 23, 2015, 11:13 AM


 









Hi 
Whilst our
boat was on the dry and after the normal greasing of the
auto-prop H6, I noticed that one of the blades doesn't
turn as easily as the other two also when I push the grease
through the central cap it doesn't come out the side
blade grease hole like the other two. I have stripped it
down and the ball races, seals and central removable
bearings all seem ok the only difference that I can find is
what seems to be another bearing I don't think one that
can be changed which seems more tightly fixed into the blade
in the "bad" blade than the other two. Also I am
able to turn by hand the inner side of the bearing on the
two "good" blades. It does not look like this
bearing can be removed easily in any of the blades but on
the "good" blades if I syringe white spirit
through the side blade grease hole it trickles through
behind this bearing where as I can't get any white
spirit through in the "bad" blade side grease
hole. When I put it all back together the "bad"
blade feels marginally stiffer than the other two. The lips
seals seems fine on all of the blades. 
I wondered if anyone had knowledge
or experience enough to know whether I should be too
concerned about one of the blades being slightly stiffer
than the other two and thoughts / advice on what to do
next?
thanks
Andrew

 

Ronpische

SM2k
472

Canet en
Roussillion, France




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Autoprop

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Eric,

Yes. svbebe"at"gmail.com will work.

On Sat, May 23, 2015 at 10:15 PM, sailormon kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Andrew,

Firstly the autoprop is greased by installing the grease gun on the side of the prop and the grease should come out the cap. You are greasing the prop backwards.

The prop has 2 sets of bearings on each blade. One roller bearing mounted in the blade and one in the hub.

When I dis-assembled my prop to rebuild it everything seemed great even though I could not get my yanmar past 2900 rpm. After the rebuild everything was fine.

 

To remove the 3 piece split bearing in the hub takes time as the tolerances are very close and the grease under the bearing holds the back half of the bearing in tightly. I soaked the hub in diesel for hours and it still was difficult to get out.

Some people have cut a notch in the back split bearing and use a screwdriver in the notch to rotate it and remove it. I did not.

 

The bearing in the blade should come out easily. If you are in the USA you can get the rebuild kit from AB marine and he will rent you the special tools to rebuild the prop.

If you wish send me your email and I will send you an exploded drawing of the prop and all the rebuil d instructions.

Bill if you would may I send you the info and you can post on the website under Kimberlite?

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] battery drain output

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Good evening Bill M,

On NIKIMAT (SM2K #289) which only had 1 freezer, while I sailing/cruising (radio, AIS, Radar, etc.) the Link 10 shows 11 to 12 Amp/hour.
This does not account for the occasional use of the fresh water pump, bilge pump, water maker, etc. which really increase the amp/hour.
I also don’t use the SSB. I only use the winches for unfurling and do the fine tuning by hand.
I start the generator every 8 hours and run it for 2 hours (just like the owner manual says).
Wish I could help more.

Sincerely, Alexandre


--------------------------------------------

On Fri, 5/22/15, william_maffei@yahoo.com [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] battery drain output
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Friday, May 22, 2015, 9:31 PM


 









Anybody know the average battery drain on a Super
Maramu while running refrigeration, AIS, radar, electronics
and all the other bells and whistles while cruising? How
often is it expected one would have to run the genset to
charge the batteries with solar panels?

Bill M
It's all Good
SM# 195











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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: H6 AutoProp Overhaul Instructions/Parts Info Posted in Files Section

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Good evening Andrew,

Looks like Eric answered your questions.

I just had my H6 Aito prop rebuild, there was 1 bearing a little stiff. I gain 200 rpm (full throttle).
The person that rebuild mine, said every 2000 engine hours, other say every 10 years…

I posted some files and pictures on:
http://nikimat.com/auto_prop_h6.html

The file will help you, the pictures will help for the removal, etc. but not the rebuild as I hired someone.
(My philosophy in not rebuilding myself was: it is done so rarely, I rather have someone familiar with it doing it - if it had been something done every other year, I would have learnt).

Hope that help a little.

Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Taino Beach, Port Lucaya, Grand Bahama, Bahamas.


--------------------------------------------

On Sat, 5/23/15, andrew.lamb@telemed.co.uk [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: H6 AutoProp Overhaul Instructions/Parts Info Posted in Files Section
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Saturday, May 23, 2015, 11:13 AM


 









Hi 
Whilst our
boat was on the dry and after the normal greasing of the
auto-prop H6, I noticed that one of the blades doesn't
turn as easily as the other two also when I push the grease
through the central cap it doesn't come out the side
blade grease hole like the other two. I have stripped it
down and the ball races, seals and central removable
bearings all seem ok the only difference that I can find is
what seems to be another bearing I don't think one that
can be changed which seems more tightly fixed into the blade
in the "bad" blade than the other two. Also I am
able to turn by hand the inner side of the bearing on the
two "good" blades. It does not look like this
bearing can be removed easily in any of the blades but on
the "good" blades if I syringe white spirit
through the side blade grease hole it trickles through
behind this bearing where as I can't get any white
spirit through in the "bad" blade side grease
hole. When I put it all back together the "bad"
blade feels marginally stiffer than the other two. The lips
seals seems fine on all of the blades. 
I wondered if anyone had knowledge
or experience enough to know whether I should be too
concerned about one of the blades being slightly stiffer
than the other two and thoughts / advice on what to do
next?
thanks
Andrew

 

Ronpische

SM2k
472

Canet en
Roussillion, France


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Autoprop

Andrew & Kate Lamb
 

Eric

 

Thanks – an exploded diagram would be very helpful -  what I don’t understand is that with one of the blades white spirit will simply not pass through the side grease opening (using a syringe) in the other two it trickles down the side of what appears like a brass bush where there is a clear gap between the bush and the main body of the blade but on the blocked one there is no gap – is this bush supposed to be removable also?

 

 

 

My email is Andrew “at” cerdagne “dot” org

 

 

Ronpische

SM2k 472

Canet en Roussillion, France

 

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, May 23, 2015 10:16 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Autoprop

 

 

Andrew,

Firstly the autoprop is greased by installing the grease gun on the side of the prop and the grease should come out the cap. You are greasing the prop backwards.

The prop has 2 sets of bearings on each blade. One roller bearing mounted in the blade and one in the hub.

When I dis-assembled my prop to rebuild it everything seemed great even though I could not get my yanmar past 2900 rpm. After the rebuild everything was fine.

 

To remove the 3 piece split bearing in the hub takes time as the tolerances are very close and the grease under the bearing holds the back half of the bearing in tightly. I soaked the hub in diesel for hours and it still was difficult to get out.

Some people have cut a notch in the back split bearing and use a screwdriver in the notch to rotate it and remove it. I did not.

 

The bearing in the blade should come out easily. If you are in the USA you can get the rebuild kit from AB marine and he will rent you the special tools to rebuild the prop.

If you wish send me your email and I will send you an exploded drawing of the prop and all the rebuild instructions.

Bill if you would may I send you the info and you can post on the website under Kimberlite?

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 


Autoprop

sailormon <kimberlite@...>
 

Andrew,

Firstly the autoprop is greased by installing the grease gun on the side of the prop and the grease should come out the cap. You are greasing the prop backwards.

The prop has 2 sets of bearings on each blade. One roller bearing mounted in the blade and one in the hub.

When I dis-assembled my prop to rebuild it everything seemed great even though I could not get my yanmar past 2900 rpm. After the rebuild everything was fine.

 

To remove the 3 piece split bearing in the hub takes time as the tolerances are very close and the grease under the bearing holds the back half of the bearing in tightly. I soaked the hub in diesel for hours and it still was difficult to get out.

Some people have cut a notch in the back split bearing and use a screwdriver in the notch to rotate it and remove it. I did not.

 

The bearing in the blade should come out easily. If you are in the USA you can get the rebuild kit from AB marine and he will rent you the special tools to rebuild the prop.

If you wish send me your email and I will send you an exploded drawing of the prop and all the rebuild instructions.

Bill if you would may I send you the info and you can post on the website under Kimberlite?

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 


(No subject)

sailormon <kimberlite@...>
 

test


test

sailormon <kimberlite@...>
 

 


Re: H6 AutoProp Overhaul Instructions/Parts Info Posted in Files Section

Wolfgang Weber <webercardio@...>
 

Andrew,
As I understood the instructions of Autoprop you should put the grease into the sidehole and it should come out of the central hole of the blade - see download from autoprop site ?

Wolfgang Weber
SY Elise # 162 Amel 54

Von meinem iPad gesendet


Re: H6 AutoProp Overhaul Instructions/Parts Info Posted in Files Section

Andrew & Kate Lamb
 

Hi 

Whilst our boat was on the dry and after the normal greasing of the auto-prop H6, I noticed that one of the blades doesn't turn as easily as the other two also when I push the grease through the central cap it doesn't come out the side blade grease hole like the other two. I have stripped it down and the ball races, seals and central removable bearings all seem ok the only difference that I can find is what seems to be another bearing I don't think one that can be changed which seems more tightly fixed into the blade in the "bad" blade than the other two. Also I am able to turn by hand the inner side of the bearing on the two "good" blades. It does not look like this bearing can be removed easily in any of the blades but on the "good" blades if I syringe white spirit through the side blade grease hole it trickles through behind this bearing where as I can't get any white spirit through in the "bad" blade side grease hole. When I put it all back together the "bad" blade feels marginally stiffer than the other two. The lips seals seems fine on all of the blades. 

I wondered if anyone had knowledge or experience enough to know whether I should be too concerned about one of the blades being slightly stiffer than the other two and thoughts / advice on what to do next?

thanks

Andrew

 

Ronpische

SM2k 472

Canet en Roussillion, France




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: battery drain output

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Colin,

The only LED I have is tricolor and anchor...the rest is all original.

I am glad the workbook helped you...play with it, it can do some powerful stuff.

Bill
BeBe 387

On Sat, May 23, 2015 at 2:47 PM, colin.d.streeter@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Thanks Bill


A great file with so much very useful information again. You have saved me hours of measurements and calculations. 

We now have our new davits & solar frame from Riza and will be installing these soon with 2 x 260w 48v solar panels so this information is very helpful indeed.

One question... I see you recorded your power usage in 2008. Did you have LED lights all round at that time or were they all the original bulbs? I think this would make a significant difference to the night usage if this was based on non-LED fittings.

Colin Streeter
Island Pearl II, SM#332
Brisbane



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: battery drain output

Colin - ex SV Island Pearl
 

Thanks Bill

A great file with so much very useful information again. You have saved me hours of measurements and calculations. 

We now have our new davits & solar frame from Riza and will be installing these soon with 2 x 260w 48v solar panels so this information is very helpful indeed.

One question... I see you recorded your power usage in 2008. Did you have LED lights all round at that time or were they all the original bulbs? I think this would make a significant difference to the night usage if this was based on non-LED fittings.

Colin Streeter
Island Pearl II, SM#332
Brisbane


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] battery drain output

karkauai
 

Hi all!

On Kristy, SM243, we have the earlier version battery compartment with 8 100Ah batteries in 24V configuration.  I understand the later models have enough room for 650Ah.

I'm basing use with two aboard, but even with 4 we only charge twice a day.  The battery voltage is usually in the 24.7V when we charge, and we stop when the Amp input gets down to 20A or so.
 I've converted to LED nav lites and cabin lites in the salon and galley, and am slowly replacing the rest as I run out of the huge inventory of spares that were on the boat when I bought her.

We charge for 1 to 1 1/2 hrs twice a day, morning and evening, because that's when we are using other 220 equipment.  We make coffee, toast, and use the microwave, hair dryer, and may wash clothes during the morning charge. During the evening charge we use the microwave and may wash clothes.  If we are in clear water, we make water with our 24V 60l/hr Dessalator every time we charge. We also make water when ever motoring in clear water.
(It's hard for me to imagine running a 220VAC Watermaker with an inverter...that seems like it would drain your battery bank in no time.)
At anchor we heat water while running the genset.



There have been only a few times in very rough seas when we had to charge every 8 hrs because of all the work the Otto (our autopilot) was doing.
Hope that helps.
Kent
SM243
Kristy
Leaving the boat in Deltaville VA while I go home for a few weeks. Continuing N in July for Cape Cod area.


On May 22, 2015, at 10:31 PM, william_maffei@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Anybody know the average battery drain on a Super Maramu while running refrigeration, AIS, radar, electronics and all the other bells and whistles while cruising? How often is it expected one would have to run the genset to charge the batteries with solar panels?

Bill M
It's all Good
SM# 195



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: battery drain output

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

OK, I uploaded Solar Panel Breakeven analysis and SM2k amp usage.xlsx to the FILES section Miscellaneous folder

Bill
BeBe 387

On Sat, May 23, 2015 at 1:14 PM, seafeverofcuan@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi Bill,

        My rule of thumb is directed at sailing. Wind, sea conditions, colder temperatures and what the crew get up to when the skipper is off watch being variables.
On long passages I think it is well worth using the engine for larger sail changes,also it clears the exhaust manifold.
When anchoring I always start the engine rather than use battery power for the windlass.
I think I have that Excel from when you added the solar panels, but it would be a really a useful reference if you would post it.
Many thanks.
Trevor 

Seafever
 



New file uploaded to amelyachtowners

amelyachtowners@...
 

Hello,


This email message is a notification to let you know that
a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the amelyachtowners
group.


File : /Miscellaneous/Solar Panel Breakeven analysis and SM2k amp useage.xlsx
Uploaded by : svbebe <yahoogroups@svbebe.com>
Description : BeBe SM #387. Used for solar panel justification. Has AMP usage at anchor and under sail. Also has Onan cost per hour, inclusive of maint.


You can access this file at the URL:
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: battery drain output

seafeverofcuan@...
 

Hi Bill,
        My rule of thumb is directed at sailing. Wind, sea conditions, colder temperatures and what the crew get up to when the skipper is off watch being variables.
On long passages I think it is well worth using the engine for larger sail changes,also it clears the exhaust manifold.
When anchoring I always start the engine rather than use battery power for the windlass.
I think I have that Excel from when you added the solar panels, but it would be a really a useful reference if you would post it.
Many thanks.
Trevor 

Seafever
 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] battery drain output

Colin - ex SV Island Pearl
 

Hi Bill R.
No doubt many of us would like to see that file. Please add it when you get a moment.
Much appreciated.
Colin Streeter
Island Pearl II SM#332
Brisbane

On Sat, May 23, 2015 at 12:31 PM, william_maffei@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Anybody know the average battery drain on a Super Maramu while running refrigeration, AIS, radar, electronics and all the other bells and whistles while cruising? How often is it expected one would have to run the genset to charge the batteries with solar panels?

Bill M
It's all Good
SM# 195





--
Colin Streeter
0411 016 445