Date   

Re: Autohelm ST7000 will not leave Standby

eamonn.washington@...
 

Hi

many thanks for all of the tips.  I will try these options in the short term (next weeks), and I will probably get in a local marine electronics workman if I can't fix it myself.  In the medium term, I will install a new system after visiting a couple of boat shows in the Autumn.  In any case I will post back here the cause of the problem when I know it.

For the replacement system from Raymarine, I saw in this thread and others that EV400 is referred to.  On Raymarines website I see:
 - EV1 (the sensor, 12V, dia. 140mm, 0.29kg)
 - ACU 400 (12v or 24v, 30A, clutch connection 4A, 12/24V) [Actuator Control Unit]
 - P70 (cockpit display and controls)
Is this the combination you mean when EV400 is mentioned?  Also, does the EV1 sensor replace the fluxgate compass?  How suitable is this equipment for a Super Maramu? 

Thanks
Eamonn
SM #151, St Raphael, France


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Supermaramu Mizzen Spotlight

Eric Freedman
 

Hi Guys,

I must have deleted the posting of the source of the LED bulbs.

Please advise.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Monday, June 01, 2015 9:08 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Supermaramu Mizzen Spotlight

 

 

Good morning Kent & Eric,

Just for info:
For the cockpit I use the 13 Watt 60 degree and it is extremely bright.
It is excellent for “work”, but too much for dinner. I might add a little filter to make it more romantic.
So for dinner I simply use the dodger light (which I replace with LED).

I have the same (13 Watt 60 degree) for the main but have not installed yet, so can’t give an opinion if the angle is too wide, etc.
Will try to do install it this coming week.

Sincerely, Alexandre
Sm2K #289 NIKIMAT
Taino Beach, Grand Bahama

--------------------------------------------
On Sun, 5/31/15, sailormon kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Supermaramu Mizzen Spotlight
To: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Sunday, May 31, 2015, 5:53 PM


 









Kent,Based upon your
description I guess you used the 13 watt units. 30 degree
for the foredeck and 60 degrees for the
cockpit.That is the only bulb
that comes in 2 angles.Fair
WindsEricKimberlite Amel Super
Maramu #376    From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Sunday, May 31, 2015 6:46 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners]
Supermaramu Mizzen Spotlight    I'm not on the boat for a
few weeks, but I have the model numbers for the mast-mounted
deck and cockpit lights.  The cockpit lite has a wider beam
(more like a flood) and the forward deck lite has a
narrower beam (more of a spot light).I still have a couple of
spares of incandescent bulbs for these, but want to switch
to LEDs when those are gone.  The clips that hold the bulbs
in on these fixtures have failed, and they are riveted to
the masts.  I found a PVC fitting that slides perfectly
into the fixture, holds the bulb securely.  I drilled three
holes thru the fixtures and thru the 1" ring of PVC and
secured them with small stainless bolts and lock nuts.
 Looks great and saved me having to replace the
fixtures.
 KentSM 243Kristy


On May 31,
2015, at 3:38 PM, sailormon kimberlite@...
[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
wrote: 
Steve,Which bulb did you
use?Fair
WindsEricKimberlite Amel Super
Maramu #376  From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...]

Sent: Monday, October 13, 2014 8:35
AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners]
Supermaramu Mizzen Spotlight   I've installed these on a
number of boats in the last few years and everyone is happy
with them: 4
1/2" Sealed Beam Replacement LED Spreader Lamp
Bulb       4 1/2" Sealed
Beam Replacement LED Spreader Lamp
BulbThese are drop-in waterproof
(IP65) LED replacements bulbs designed to replace 4.5"
(4-3/8") glass sealed-beams (tractor bulbs) in existing
fixtures, and they
serio...View on
store.marinebeam.comPreview by
Yahoo  Steve
LeedsCircumnavigator's Yacht
Service, Inc.MACCABEESharki
#121 On Monday, October 13,
2014 7:33 AM, "'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@...
[amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...>
wrote:  
We
have recently replace this and found $5.99 generic brand at
the best price: http://www.atlantalightbulbs.com/ecart/nw012104/GE4505UNIT24640.htm I
would imagine Europe would also have a discount internet
bulb supplier.  Best
regards, Mark SM2K
#275www.creampuff.us   From:
amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...]

Sent: Monday, October 13, 2014 10:23
AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Supermaramu
Mizzen Spotlight  
Hi everyone,
  As with most SM's ( and maybe 54s ?) I have
spotlights on my main and mizzen
masts. The bulbs
are both Sealed Beam, GE 4505 28v
50w.I rarely use
these lights. In 14 years I have not changed the bulb on the
main ....but the mizzen bulb burns out at the least use. I
must have replaced 5 or 6, and they are a crazy
price.Has anyone
else experienced this issue? Any suggestions as to the
cause?  As they are designed for aircraft and rated at 28v
they should be easily rugged enough .It defies logic to
think that for that bulb alone there is somehow more than 28
volts being delivered.  Has anyone
found an LED bulb that fits the same holder
? Ian and
Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302, Corfu,
Greece   










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Water maker

gegcarter@...
 

I also have a problem with my water-maker, which is the 50l/hr Dessalator unit.  It's probably down to neglect. 

When we bought GUMA the water-maker worked (although when Olivier, who did the survey, offered me the sample to drink I did think it smelled a bit of eggs...).  Then followed two years where we were frequently in marinas where good quality water was available and so the water-maker was not required ... or used.  Such was my ignorance. 

'Use it or lose it', I have been told - too late, inevitably.

So at the end of last year I tried making some water for the first time, really, since buying the boat:
  • The sampling tube on the control panel did not produce any water.  I had my sample anyway as I had disconnected the outlet feed from the water-maker to the tank, to protect both the tank and its existing content from contamination, having been told not to trust the 'good / bad' sensor on the control panel and remembering the eggy smell. 
  • The water emerging from the feed tube was super-eggy!  It tasted OK, but the smell was bad. 
I was advised that there was probably microbial contamination on the membranes and that I should pickle them for a while.  So I acquired some steriliser and, following the instructions in the multi-lingual brochure from Dessalator, infused the device with it.  That was just before spending 4 months in Licata marina for the winter 2014/15. 

As soon as we were in clean seas this season I tried the water-maker again. Rinsing with fresh water, then switching the valve back to seawater and following the instructions:
  • The water maker seemed to be acting normally, and I increased the pressure. 
  • Nothing from the sampling pipe (as expected from before)
  • Nothing from the feed pipe to the tanks - which I had again removed to collect whatever was made. 
  • Then the device switched itself off - maybe due to excess pressure (I was in the engine room observing proceedings from there - mechanically everything looked fine). 
On subsequent attempts to run the water-maker the device seems not to generate any pressure.  Running on 'open', water is pumped through the system and out through the hull.  On increasing the pressure valve by turning clockwise there is very little response on the gauge, little action in the manometer tube, and, at high pressure settings, no discernable water being ejected through the hull skin fitting. Needless to say, no water from the reservoir feed-tube either. 

It seems to me that the pump cannot be generating pressure - or a protective sensor is stopping it (but not switching off the pump).  

Any thoughts on what has happened, why, and what I should do about it? 

Keith
SY GUMA
Currently in Thasos, N Greece.


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Repower

Eric Freedman
 

Hi Kent

The link did not open and I do not see it in the fils section.

Did you get my photos?

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Monday, July 06, 2015 8:24 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Repower

 

 

It's posted in the Files section, Eric. 

 

Kent


On Jul 6, 2015, at 4:06 AM, sailormon kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Kent,

Would you please send me a copy of the isolation schematics ?

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Friday, June 26, 2015 2:10 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Repower

 

 

The 12v alternator that came on my Yanmar110 has a ground wire, but it is grounded to the block.  I think I will be able to use it.  The 24v alternator that was in the old Volvo is also an isolated ground, but has been grounded to the non-isolated Yanmar ground wire thus far.  Once I get the harness built, install the new switches, senders, and solenoids, both alternators and the senders will be grounded back to the negative on the battery side of the solenoid.  The solenoid will make the connection of the engine block to the negative battery post only when the engine is cranked or when the STOP button is pushed.  When the engine is stopped or running, the connection is interrupted by the solenoid.

It'll make more sense when I get the isolation schematics to you.

Good luck,

Kent

SM243

Kristy


On Jun 26, 2015, at 12:53 PM, Steve Davis flyboyscd@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Thanks Kent. You are a wealth of knowledge on this subject, and a great resource for the group. I'm curious, is your alternator an isolated ground alternator? Also, what gadget do you have to measure hull potential, as I need one. I will admit that your experience has scared me a bit. 

 

On another subject, do you happen to know the pitch marks for your max prop? I've got the same prop, and suspect I'll need to adjust the pitch for the higher revving Yanmar. 

 

Steve and Liz

Aloha SM72





On Jun 26, 2015, at 12:36, Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

It's my understanding that it shouldn't cause a problem unless there is a fault in the engine's electrical system.  If there is, it can eat up your zincs almost overnight, then start working on the CDrive.

In my case I hauled out to paint the bottom, and discovered the prop zinc gone and rudder zincs almost gone.  While changing the prop shaft seals I discovered the shaft was about 1/3 eaten away as if a blow torch had been used on it.

I discovered a poorly installed charger/inverter that also had a fault, and poorly connected bonding system when I repowered with a Yanmar a few years ago.  I didn't understand the Amel grounding systems well enough at that time and the Yanmar was not isolated as Amel recommends.  I felt certain that the cause of my shaft problem was the charger/inverter and/or poorly bonded CDrive after re powering. 

 Isolating the new Yanmar is more complicated than it should be, and all hull potential readings were normal, so I elected to do the isolation later when I had all the necessary parts assembled.

 

After being back in the water only 5 weeks, I dove on the prop and discovered that the zincs were half gone.  This was in spite of all hull potential readings being in the "safe" range...but I never checked hull potential with the Yanmar or ONAN running.

When I get back to the boat next week, I expect to find a faulty alternator on the Yanmar.  If not, I'll let you know what I do find.  If that's what it is, the fault is grounded to the bonding system and would have destroyed my prop shaft again!

Before going back in the water I will have the Yanmar electrically isolated.

I will check hull potential monthly and weekly when on the dock with both the Yanmar and ONAN running,  the AC on, and the DC chargers running.

I won't stay connected to shore power unless I am on the boat.

 

I understand that the Amel system of isolating the bonding system from all AC and DC systems is what is done with metal-hulled boats, but can't confirm that.  It makes a lot more sense to me that that ABYC system of connecting all AC and DC systems to the bonding system.  It's another way that Capn Amel has good reason for designing his boats as he did.  Don't make changes without fully understanding why your boat is designed as it is.

 

More in a week or so!

Kent

SM243

Kristy



On Jun 26, 2015, at 11:19 AM, Richard03801 richard03801@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Take a look at posts Kent has on this site. Not isolating the engine will over a very short time cause a issues with the Amel drive and engine. The old saying an once of prevention.    

Fair Winds Smooth Sailing To All

Capt Richard 

RP Yacht Brokerage

Newport RI 

We list sell and service fine yachts including Amel's

Cell 603 767 5330


On Jun 26, 2015, at 07:51, alex.paquin@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

So what would be the consequences on not isolating the engine ´s negative on all electrical sensors, actuators and alternators?

Alex Paquin

Simpatico Hull 94

Older Maramu 1981


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: C-Drive

tango708@...
 

Oliver, Thank you very much for your help.  I do have mechanics working with me on the project.  I did not find the photo's you referenced would you be kind enough to email them to me at wtstout at mac dot com?  With your and Kent's help I think we will get this done.  One sizing item I will mention is the shaft diam on my boat is 35mm.  I am using a Vetus Type 6, KO53 flex coupling which is for a 35 mm shaft.

Best Regards,
Will Stout
Anni Bea True
SM180
Cape Charles Yacht Center waiting repairs


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: C-Drive

Eric Freedman
 

Hi Olivier,

It has been a long time.

Would you please send me the photos to Kimberlite@....

Thank You,

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Tuesday, July 07, 2015 3:20 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: C-Drive

 

 

Hi Will,
yes it is possible to take down the shaft with bearings and gear from the top C-drive while the vessel is afloat. However, it may be difficult to remove the shaft because of aging.For removing the old shaft and installing the new one, I would recommend to take the top C-drive away.
Considering the C-drive is repaired, here is the procedure for alignment.-First use a fixed coupling (internal diameter 40 mm) to check that the shaft of the C-drive is centered with the Gear-box flange. the better is to have the fixed coupling (used as a tool) machined (see picture 2) in order it can be plugged into the gear-box flange's internal cylindric gap (see picture 1). If you still have the original gear-box (HURTH-ZF 250 mechanic) the flange will be slightly different. Picture 1 shows an hydraulic ZF-25 gear-box.-Install the fixed coupling on the C-drive shaft (with key) and bring the engine forward until they both come in touch. An off-centered shaft (C-drive) can be easily seen (picture 3). To correct this, you should adjust the height of the top C-drive by moving the bolts of the C-drive's mounts. You can adjust it of about 1mm without undoing the big rubber sleeve. If you need more, you should ease the hose clamps on the big rubber sleeve in order you can bring the top C-drive more upwards (or downwards). On the picture, the top C-drive needed to be moved of 2mm.-once both shaft are centered and the male part of the fixed coupling enters the female part of the gear-box flange, you have to check if both flanges are parallel, using calibrated shims of 0.1mm. You should be able to adjust the space between both flanges to 0.0 mm, by moving the top C-drive sideways. If this is not enough, you'll have to widen the holes in the cradle where the engine supports bolts fit.-once the slack between both flanges is 0.0mm, tighten the top C-drive mounts and mark the position of the engine supports onto the cradle-move the engine back again and install the new flex coupling on the C-drive shaft, then bring the engine back forward to the marks. Tighten the engine. Check the slack again between the flex coupling and the gear-box flange. Then tighten the coupling.
I don't know your skills, if you're going to do it yourself. But I stress on the fact that you should have this job done by a trustable mechanic company.
If you still feel vibrations that increase with the rpm, the alignment is still not good. Do it again...If it's really impossible to adjust, the prop will have to be checked for balance. You could also try your spare fixed prop (supplied originally).
I will be travelling for the next days but should be able to reach my e-mails. Feel free to ask for more details.Tell me if you get the pictures.
Good luck.
Olivier

On Tuesday, July 7, 2015 2:41 AM, "Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


  Hi again Will,I'm sure that Olivier will give you good advice on alignment.  If they didn't put new motor mounts when the prior owner repowered, I would certainly do that.  If they used new mounts that were the same as the old ones installed with the Volvo, they are significantly undersized for your new engine.  That could be the source of your vibration/shaft failure.When I repowered with the 4JH4HTE, new shims were made of cylindrical steel about 1 1/4 inch outside diameter with a center hole large enough for the bolts that hold the engine on the angle iron "beds".  The aft ones are longer than the foreword ones.  If needed I can measure them, but I suspect each boat is a little different.The new mounts had different hole configuration where they rest on the stringer.  In the stringers about 3" from the surface is an embedded steel plate that has to be drilled and tapped for the new mounts.  There was a hump in the stringers that the engine mounts rest on where the forward mounts were added that had to be ground down to get a solid fit.  I'm in Deltaville, VA for another couple of weeks if you want to drive up and see the installation.You can reach me at karkauai at yahoo dot comOr call my cell at 828-234-6819.KentSM243Kristy


On Jul 6, 2015, at 6:09 PM, tango708@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

  Hi Kent, and thanks for the info.  I did take a look at your photo's.  I was under the impression for some reason that the larger part of the shaft was drilled/tooled and a new shaft (35mm on my boat) was made and pressed into the larger portion of the shaft and then welded into place.  However, I understand now that the larger shaft was tooled down to 35mm and shortened 4-5mm and a collar made to fit over the joint that was welded into place.  Questions: 1) Did you have to pull the c-drive or were you able to remove the shaft from the engine room. 2)  Would you mind sketching for me what you did to effect the repairs and take a photo of the sketch with your phone and email or text to me.  I want to make sure I understand exactly what you did in order to duplicate it.   I think you have my phone number from our last conversation 206 841 9556.

Thank You,
Will Stout
Anni Bea True
SM 180
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: C-Drive

Beaute Olivier
 

Hi Will,
yes it is possible to take down the shaft with bearings and gear from the top C-drive while the vessel is afloat. However, it may be difficult to remove the shaft because of aging.For removing the old shaft and installing the new one, I would recommend to take the top C-drive away.
Considering the C-drive is repaired, here is the procedure for alignment.-First use a fixed coupling (internal diameter 40 mm) to check that the shaft of the C-drive is centered with the Gear-box flange. the better is to have the fixed coupling (used as a tool) machined (see picture 2) in order it can be plugged into the gear-box flange's internal cylindric gap (see picture 1). If you still have the original gear-box (HURTH-ZF 250 mechanic) the flange will be slightly different. Picture 1 shows an hydraulic ZF-25 gear-box.-Install the fixed coupling on the C-drive shaft (with key) and bring the engine forward until they both come in touch. An off-centered shaft (C-drive) can be easily seen (picture 3). To correct this, you should adjust the height of the top C-drive by moving the bolts of the C-drive's mounts. You can adjust it of about 1mm without undoing the big rubber sleeve. If you need more, you should ease the hose clamps on the big rubber sleeve in order you can bring the top C-drive more upwards (or downwards). On the picture, the top C-drive needed to be moved of 2mm.-once both shaft are centered and the male part of the fixed coupling enters the female part of the gear-box flange, you have to check if both flanges are parallel, using calibrated shims of 0.1mm. You should be able to adjust the space between both flanges to 0.0 mm, by moving the top C-drive sideways. If this is not enough, you'll have to widen the holes in the cradle where the engine supports bolts fit.-once the slack between both flanges is 0.0mm, tighten the top C-drive mounts and mark the position of the engine supports onto the cradle-move the engine back again and install the new flex coupling on the C-drive shaft, then bring the engine back forward to the marks. Tighten the engine. Check the slack again between the flex coupling and the gear-box flange. Then tighten the coupling.
I don't know your skills, if you're going to do it yourself. But I stress on the fact that you should have this job done by a trustable mechanic company.
If you still feel vibrations that increase with the rpm, the alignment is still not good. Do it again...If it's really impossible to adjust, the prop will have to be checked for balance. You could also try your spare fixed prop (supplied originally).
I will be travelling for the next days but should be able to reach my e-mails. Feel free to ask for more details.Tell me if you get the pictures.
Good luck.
Olivier

On Tuesday, July 7, 2015 2:41 AM, "Kent Robertson karkauai@yahoo.com [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:


  Hi again Will,I'm sure that Olivier will give you good advice on alignment.  If they didn't put new motor mounts when the prior owner repowered, I would certainly do that.  If they used new mounts that were the same as the old ones installed with the Volvo, they are significantly undersized for your new engine.  That could be the source of your vibration/shaft failure.When I repowered with the 4JH4HTE, new shims were made of cylindrical steel about 1 1/4 inch outside diameter with a center hole large enough for the bolts that hold the engine on the angle iron "beds".  The aft ones are longer than the foreword ones.  If needed I can measure them, but I suspect each boat is a little different.The new mounts had different hole configuration where they rest on the stringer.  In the stringers about 3" from the surface is an embedded steel plate that has to be drilled and tapped for the new mounts.  There was a hump in the stringers that the engine mounts rest on where the forward mounts were added that had to be ground down to get a solid fit.  I'm in Deltaville, VA for another couple of weeks if you want to drive up and see the installation.You can reach me at karkauai at yahoo dot comOr call my cell at 828-234-6819.KentSM243Kristy
On Jul 6, 2015, at 6:09 PM, tango708@yahoo.com [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

  Hi Kent, and thanks for the info.  I did take a look at your photo's.  I was under the impression for some reason that the larger part of the shaft was drilled/tooled and a new shaft (35mm on my boat) was made and pressed into the larger portion of the shaft and then welded into place.  However, I understand now that the larger shaft was tooled down to 35mm and shortened 4-5mm and a collar made to fit over the joint that was welded into place.  Questions: 1) Did you have to pull the c-drive or were you able to remove the shaft from the engine room. 2)  Would you mind sketching for me what you did to effect the repairs and take a photo of the sketch with your phone and email or text to me.  I want to make sure I understand exactly what you did in order to duplicate it.   I think you have my phone number from our last conversation 206 841 9556.

Thank You,
Will Stout
Anni Bea True
SM 180
Cape Charles Yacht Center waiting repairs. #yiv6046387925 #yiv6046387925 -- #yiv6046387925ygrp-mkp {border:1px solid #d8d8d8;font-family:Arial;margin:10px 0;padding:0 10px;}#yiv6046387925 #yiv6046387925ygrp-mkp hr {border:1px solid #d8d8d8;}#yiv6046387925 #yiv6046387925ygrp-mkp #yiv6046387925hd {color:#628c2a;font-size:85%;font-weight:700;line-height:122%;margin:10px 0;}#yiv6046387925 #yiv6046387925ygrp-mkp #yiv6046387925ads {margin-bottom:10px;}#yiv6046387925 #yiv6046387925ygrp-mkp .yiv6046387925ad {padding:0 0;}#yiv6046387925 #yiv6046387925ygrp-mkp .yiv6046387925ad p {margin:0;}#yiv6046387925 #yiv6046387925ygrp-mkp .yiv6046387925ad a {color:#0000ff;text-decoration:none;}#yiv6046387925 #yiv6046387925ygrp-sponsor #yiv6046387925ygrp-lc {font-family:Arial;}#yiv6046387925 #yiv6046387925ygrp-sponsor #yiv6046387925ygrp-lc #yiv6046387925hd {margin:10px 0px;font-weight:700;font-size:78%;line-height:122%;}#yiv6046387925 #yiv6046387925ygrp-sponsor #yiv6046387925ygrp-lc .yiv6046387925ad 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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: C-Drive

karkauai
 

Hi again Will,
I'm sure that Olivier will give you good advice on alignment.  If they didn't put new motor mounts when the prior owner repowered, I would certainly do that.  If they used new mounts that were the same as the old ones installed with the Volvo, they are significantly undersized for your new engine.  That could be the source of your vibration/shaft failure.
When I repowered with the 4JH4HTE, new shims were made of cylindrical steel about 1 1/4 inch outside diameter with a center hole large enough for the bolts that hold the engine on the angle iron "beds".  The aft ones are longer than the foreword ones.  If needed I can measure them, but I suspect each boat is a little different.
The new mounts had different hole configuration where they rest on the stringer.  In the stringers about 3" from the surface is an embedded steel plate that has to be drilled and tapped for the new mounts.  There was a hump in the stringers that the engine mounts rest on where the forward mounts were added that had to be ground down to get a solid fit.  I'm in Deltaville, VA for another couple of weeks if you want to drive up and see the installation.
You can reach me at karkauai at yahoo dot com
Or call my cell at 828-234-6819.
Kent
SM243
Kristy


On Jul 6, 2015, at 6:09 PM, tango708@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Kent, and thanks for the info.  I did take a look at your photo's.  I was under the impression for some reason that the larger part of the shaft was drilled/tooled and a new shaft (35mm on my boat) was made and pressed into the larger portion of the shaft and then welded into place.  However, I understand now that the larger shaft was tooled down to 35mm and shortened 4-5mm and a collar made to fit over the joint that was welded into place.  Questions: 1) Did you have to pull the c-drive or were you able to remove the shaft from the engine room. 2)  Would you mind sketching for me what you did to effect the repairs and take a photo of the sketch with your phone and email or text to me.  I want to make sure I understand exactly what you did in order to duplicate it.   I think you have my phone number from our last conversation 206 841 9556.

Thank You,
Will Stout
Anni Bea True
SM 180
Cape Charles Yacht Center waiting repairs.


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Repower

karkauai
 

karkauai at yahoo dot com
Kent


On Jul 6, 2015, at 3:41 PM, sailormon kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Kent,

I can get 3400+ rpm out of the engine with the autoprop.

I have a photo of the packing nut wrench I had made as well as the block that is at the end of my mizzen boom.

Please send me your email address.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Monday, July 06, 2015 8:19 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Repower

 

 

I think I can adjust my MaxProp one more click and still get 3000+ rpm,  I'll do that before going back in the water and see what happens.

Kent


On Jul 5, 2015, at 9:44 PM, sailormon kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Kent ,

I get about 7+ knots at 2200 and about 9 at 3000.

I have the same engine with an autoprop.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Thursday, June 25, 2015 9:04 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Repower

 

 

My Volvo never got to maximum rpm until I re-propped, but after re-propping with a prop that was sized and pitched according to a prop shop in Norfolk, it did 7.5 kts at 2800rpm on flat water.  With my 110 Yanmar it does 8.3 kts at 3000rpm on flat water.  Not really significant since I don't run it that hard when motoring or motor sailing while cruising.  At 2200 rpm it pushes the boat at about 6 kts.

Kent

SM243

Kristy


On Jun 25, 2015, at 6:44 PM, 'hanspeter.baettig@...' hanspeter.baettig@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Question to all SM owners

Whats the different between 80 hp and 110 hp

Max Speed for SM is ca 8.5 kn

Independent how much power, the power on the Prop is Important 

I have this speed with clean  boat/Propeller with the Perkins 80 hp Turbo (1990, 3000 h)

Hanspeter

SM 16 Tamango 2

Göcek, Tutkey

Von meinem iPhone gesendet


Am 25.06.2015 um 18:18 schrieb "Germain Jean-Pierre jgermain@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...>:

 

Wise choice Steve..

 

JPG




On 25 Jun 2015, at 17:00, flyboyscd@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Thanks for the info Chris. It looks like 80 hp is the way to go on our older boats due to the Cdrive issues.

Regards,
Steve and Liz
Aloha SM72


Photos posted-- primary winch base, stuffing box wrench, block at the end of the mizzen boom

Eric Freedman
 

Hi ,

I just posted some photos to my file Kimberlite.

They are at the end if you look in date order.

Sorry but I do not know how to add a title to the photos.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 


Re: C-Drive

tango708@...
 

Hi Oliver, And thanks for the  good advise.  The flex coupling was replaced by a company, Moxey Marine in Charlestson and little or no attention was paid to the C-Drive.  That said my boat had only 50 hours on a new Yanmar HJ4H-HTE when I purchased and presently has about 300.  I have no idea of how many hours are on the C-Drive from the original Volvo.  

Assuming that I can have the shaft rebuilt hear in USA or purchase a top unit from Amel what is the procedure for aligning the engine with the shaft? 

Regards,
Will Stout
Anni Bea True
SM180
Cape Charles Yacht Center waiting repairs


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: C-Drive

tango708@...
 

Hi Kent, and thanks for the info.  I did take a look at your photo's.  I was under the impression for some reason that the larger part of the shaft was drilled/tooled and a new shaft (35mm on my boat) was made and pressed into the larger portion of the shaft and then welded into place.  However, I understand now that the larger shaft was tooled down to 35mm and shortened 4-5mm and a collar made to fit over the joint that was welded into place.  Questions: 1) Did you have to pull the c-drive or were you able to remove the shaft from the engine room. 2)  Would you mind sketching for me what you did to effect the repairs and take a photo of the sketch with your phone and email or text to me.  I want to make sure I understand exactly what you did in order to duplicate it.   I think you have my phone number from our last conversation 206 841 9556.

Thank You,
Will Stout
Anni Bea True
SM 180
Cape Charles Yacht Center waiting repairs.


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: RED LIGHT ON WATER MAKER

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Hello Peter, Please keep us posted so that we can all learn from it!
Sincerely, Alexandre



--------------------------------------------

On Mon, 7/6/15, peter killen peterkillen@gmail.com [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: RED LIGHT ON WATER MAKER
To: "amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Monday, July 6, 2015, 4:31 PM


 









Dear alexandreMany thanks
indeed. Hopefully will get the problem sorted tomorrow. Have
a mechanic dealing with it in the yard and think the problem
is people pinpointed Kind
regardsPeterPURE MAGICSM
433
On 6 Jul
2015, at 16:06, Alexandre Uster von Baar uster@rocketmail.com
[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
wrote:
















 






Good afternoon Peter,



Might be a good idea to start /restart a new topic for
this…. I renamed my answer: "RED LIGHT ON WATER
MAKER" for you.



After I had my water maker serviced (including a new high
pressure sensor), I start it up then briefly after had the
red light and it stopped

The high pressure had to be adjusted. so that it stops the
system only when reading the red zone.

http://nikimat.com/water_maker_duo_d60.html



Did you had your water maker serviced? Including a new high
pressure sensor? If yes, then I guess the high pressure
sensor needs to be adjusted.



To get help, you need to write which model of Dessalator you
have… and hopefully some more experience owner can help
you.



Sincerely, Alexandre

SM2K #289 NIKIMAT

Grand Bahama.



--------------------------------------------

On Mon, 7/6/15, peter killen peterkillen@gmail.com
[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
wrote:



Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: C-Drive

To: "amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com"
<amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>

Date: Monday, July 6, 2015, 1:32 PM





 



















Excuse me cropping up under this subject.

I have just this morning launched pure magic and turned
on

the watermaker. It worked for a minute or so then the
red

light went on and it has not worked since We

have checked all the hoses ect but nothing seems

wrongHas anybody got any ideas what could be the

fault?It was winterised and was

perfect Is there a feed pump from the main

seawater  inlet prior to the high pressure

pump?

PeterSM 433 Pure

MagicCurrently in Halifax 
On 6 Jul 2015, at 09:13, Kent Robertson karkauai@yahoo.com

[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>

wrote:

































 













Hi Will.That happened on my

boat a few years ago.  The break was where the diameter
of

the shaft stepped down.  A machinist in Puerto Rico
turned

the larger diameter part  on his lathe 4-5 cms from the

break to the same diameter as the smaller diameter part,

then welded a collar of about 7-8 mm thickness over both

ends.  All agreed it was stronger than the original.

 There are pics of the broken and repaired shaft in a
photo

folder named "Amel SM Transmission/CDrive".
 Not

sure why they are interspersed with other pics, but
there

are 4 or 5 pics.

I was

told that Amel doesn't like to sell only one part of
the

CDrive because of the gears perhaps being slightly
different

( they are made as a set).  If the gears all seem to be
in

good shape, the repair will save you a lot of money and

time.  And yes, the repair can be done without hauling
the

boat.

Hope that

helps.KentSM243Kristy



Sent from my

iPhone

On Jul 5, 2015, at 11:16

PM, tango708@yahoo.com

[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>

wrote:

































 













Oliver,

Thanks again sorry that I

was silent for a few days... we had the flex coupling

repaired in Charleston, SC and were underway again.  
The

second day we made Beaufort and the following day
departed

Beaufort for Cape Charles.  However, about 4 hours
after

departing Beaufort the drive shaft between the new
coupling

and the c-drive broke.  Does anyone on the forum have
any

advise regarding replacing this shaft?  The prop turns

freely and the engine and transmission seem to be
working

normally.  My C-Drive looks like it can be accessed
from

inside the engine room without removing the entire
unit. 

Does anyone have the spec's for the shaft?  Type of

steel etc.  I know that it is 35 mm.  The replacement
flex

coupling is a Vetus Type 6, KO53 (i.e. 35mm)





Regards,

Will Stout,

Anni Bea True

SM180







































































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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: RED LIGHT ON WATER MAKER

Peter Killen
 

Dear alexandre
Many thanks indeed. Hopefully will get the problem sorted tomorrow. Have a mechanic dealing with it in the yard and think the problem is people pinpointed 
Kind regards
Peter
PURE MAGIC
SM 433


On 6 Jul 2015, at 16:06, Alexandre Uster von Baar uster@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Good afternoon Peter,

Might be a good idea to start /restart a new topic for this…. I renamed my answer: "RED LIGHT ON WATER MAKER" for you.

After I had my water maker serviced (including a new high pressure sensor), I start it up then briefly after had the red light and it stopped
The high pressure had to be adjusted. so that it stops the system only when reading the red zone.
http://nikimat.com/water_maker_duo_d60.html

Did you had your water maker serviced? Including a new high pressure sensor? If yes, then I guess the high pressure sensor needs to be adjusted.

To get help, you need to write which model of Dessalator you have… and hopefully some more experience owner can help you.

Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Grand Bahama.

--------------------------------------------
On Mon, 7/6/15, peter killen peterkillen@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: C-Drive
To: "amelyachtowners@..." <amelyachtowners@...>
Date: Monday, July 6, 2015, 1:32 PM


 









Excuse me cropping up under this subject.
I have just this morning launched pure magic and turned on
the watermaker. It worked for a minute or so then the red
light went on and it has not worked since We
have checked all the hoses ect but nothing seems
wrongHas anybody got any ideas what could be the
fault?It was winterised and was
perfect Is there a feed pump from the main
seawater  inlet prior to the high pressure
pump?
PeterSM 433 Pure
MagicCurrently in Halifax 


On 6 Jul 2015, at 09:13, Kent Robertson karkauai@...
[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
wrote:
















 






Hi Will.That happened on my
boat a few years ago.  The break was where the diameter of
the shaft stepped down.  A machinist in Puerto Rico turned
the larger diameter part  on his lathe 4-5 cms from the
break to the same diameter as the smaller diameter part,
then welded a collar of about 7-8 mm thickness over both
ends.  All agreed it was stronger than the original.
 There are pics of the broken and repaired shaft in a photo
folder named "Amel SM Transmission/CDrive".  Not
sure why they are interspersed with other pics, but there
are 4 or 5 pics.
I was
told that Amel doesn't like to sell only one part of the
CDrive because of the gears perhaps being slightly different
( they are made as a set).  If the gears all seem to be in
good shape, the repair will save you a lot of money and
time.  And yes, the repair can be done without hauling the
boat.
Hope that
helps.KentSM243Kristy

Sent from my
iPhone
On Jul 5, 2015, at 11:16
PM, tango708@...
[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
wrote:
















 






Oliver,
Thanks again sorry that I
was silent for a few days... we had the flex coupling
repaired in Charleston, SC and were underway again.   The
second day we made Beaufort and the following day departed
Beaufort for Cape Charles.  However, about 4 hours after
departing Beaufort the drive shaft between the new coupling
and the c-drive broke.  Does anyone on the forum have any
advise regarding replacing this shaft?  The prop turns
freely and the engine and transmission seem to be working
normally.  My C-Drive looks like it can be accessed from
inside the engine room without removing the entire unit. 
Does anyone have the spec's for the shaft?  Type of
steel etc.  I know that it is 35 mm.  The replacement flex
coupling is a Vetus Type 6, KO53 (i.e. 35mm)


Regards,
Will Stout,
Anni Bea True
SM180



































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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] New file uploaded to amelyachtowners

Eric Freedman
 

Kent,

If my memory serves me correctly the Tach gets its info from a sender that works in conjunction with the flywheel.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Monday, July 06, 2015 8:34 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] New file uploaded to amelyachtowners

 

 

Not exactly sure yet Eric, getting with electrician today.  Because the tach gets its info from the alternator, it may be more complicated than the 4JH3 that gets its info from the shaft (?or cam?).  I'll let you know when I figure it out.

Kent

SM243

Kristy


On Jul 6, 2015, at 4:21 AM, sailormon kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi ,

Our Yanmar came with VDO gauges separate from the main engine panel.

Each sender and gauge is isolated ground .

How do you plan on isolating the Yanmar alternator?

I purchased a spare and after thinking about it I believe my spare is not isolated ground.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Friday, June 26, 2015 11:13 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] New file uploaded to amelyachtowners

 

 


Hello,

This email message is a notification to let you know that
a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the amelyachtowners
group.

File : /_Kit isolation Yanmar.pdf
Uploaded by : karkauai <karkauai@...>
Description : Schematic and photos from Amel that show how to electrically isolate the Yanmar 4JH4HTE. It requires making your own new wiring harness, isolated ground switches and senders for oil pressure and temperature cut-off and gauges, isolated ground alternator(s), diodes, and a solenoid in the negative wire between the block and the negative battery post. The isolated ground components are grounded back to the battery instead of being grounded to the block. The starter and stop solenoid cannot be isolated, so they operate via the solenoid when the engine is cranked or stop switch is compressed. As soon as the key is released to the "run" position, or the stop button is released, the solenoid opens the circuit so that the engine is no longer connected to the negative battery post.
The most difficult part of this project is finding the proper isolated ground senders and switches. Yanmar will not release the specs. You can get the numbers and thread sizes directly from the senders and switches (the numbers are stamped in the hex heads used to tighten them into the block), but they still have to be interpreted, and comparable isolated ground parts found. I will post this when I am certain that I have something that works.

You can access this file at the URL:
https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/amelyachtowners/files/_Kit%20isolation%20Yanmar.pdf

To learn more about file sharing for your group, please visit:
https://help.yahoo.com/kb/index?page=content&y=PROD_GRPS&locale=en_US&id=SLN15398

Regards,

karkauai <karkauai@...>


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Repower

Eric Freedman
 

Kent,

I can get 3400+ rpm out of the engine with the autoprop.

I have a photo of the packing nut wrench I had made as well as the block that is at the end of my mizzen boom.

Please send me your email address.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Monday, July 06, 2015 8:19 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Repower

 

 

I think I can adjust my MaxProp one more click and still get 3000+ rpm,  I'll do that before going back in the water and see what happens.

Kent


On Jul 5, 2015, at 9:44 PM, sailormon kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Kent ,

I get about 7+ knots at 2200 and about 9 at 3000.

I have the same engine with an autoprop.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Thursday, June 25, 2015 9:04 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Repower

 

 

My Volvo never got to maximum rpm until I re-propped, but after re-propping with a prop that was sized and pitched according to a prop shop in Norfolk, it did 7.5 kts at 2800rpm on flat water.  With my 110 Yanmar it does 8.3 kts at 3000rpm on flat water.  Not really significant since I don't run it that hard when motoring or motor sailing while cruising.  At 2200 rpm it pushes the boat at about 6 kts.

Kent

SM243

Kristy


On Jun 25, 2015, at 6:44 PM, 'hanspeter.baettig@...' hanspeter.baettig@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Question to all SM owners

Whats the different between 80 hp and 110 hp

Max Speed for SM is ca 8.5 kn

Independent how much power, the power on the Prop is Important 

I have this speed with clean  boat/Propeller with the Perkins 80 hp Turbo (1990, 3000 h)

Hanspeter

SM 16 Tamango 2

Göcek, Tutkey

Von meinem iPhone gesendet


Am 25.06.2015 um 18:18 schrieb "Germain Jean-Pierre jgermain@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...>:

 

Wise choice Steve..

 

JPG




On 25 Jun 2015, at 17:00, flyboyscd@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Thanks for the info Chris. It looks like 80 hp is the way to go on our older boats due to the Cdrive issues.

Regards,
Steve and Liz
Aloha SM72


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: RED LIGHT ON WATER MAKER

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Good afternoon Peter,

Might be a good idea to start /restart a new topic for this…. I renamed my answer: "RED LIGHT ON WATER MAKER" for you.

After I had my water maker serviced (including a new high pressure sensor), I start it up then briefly after had the red light and it stopped
The high pressure had to be adjusted. so that it stops the system only when reading the red zone.
http://nikimat.com/water_maker_duo_d60.html

Did you had your water maker serviced? Including a new high pressure sensor? If yes, then I guess the high pressure sensor needs to be adjusted.

To get help, you need to write which model of Dessalator you have… and hopefully some more experience owner can help you.

Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Grand Bahama.


--------------------------------------------

On Mon, 7/6/15, peter killen peterkillen@gmail.com [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: C-Drive
To: "amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Monday, July 6, 2015, 1:32 PM


 









Excuse me cropping up under this subject.
I have just this morning launched pure magic and turned on
the watermaker. It worked for a minute or so then the red
light went on and it has not worked since We
have checked all the hoses ect but nothing seems
wrongHas anybody got any ideas what could be the
fault?It was winterised and was
perfect Is there a feed pump from the main
seawater  inlet prior to the high pressure
pump?
PeterSM 433 Pure
MagicCurrently in Halifax 
On 6 Jul 2015, at 09:13, Kent Robertson karkauai@yahoo.com
[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
wrote:
















 






Hi Will.That happened on my
boat a few years ago.  The break was where the diameter of
the shaft stepped down.  A machinist in Puerto Rico turned
the larger diameter part  on his lathe 4-5 cms from the
break to the same diameter as the smaller diameter part,
then welded a collar of about 7-8 mm thickness over both
ends.  All agreed it was stronger than the original.
 There are pics of the broken and repaired shaft in a photo
folder named "Amel SM Transmission/CDrive".  Not
sure why they are interspersed with other pics, but there
are 4 or 5 pics.
I was
told that Amel doesn't like to sell only one part of the
CDrive because of the gears perhaps being slightly different
( they are made as a set).  If the gears all seem to be in
good shape, the repair will save you a lot of money and
time.  And yes, the repair can be done without hauling the
boat.
Hope that
helps.KentSM243Kristy

Sent from my
iPhone
On Jul 5, 2015, at 11:16
PM, tango708@yahoo.com
[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
wrote:
















 






Oliver,
Thanks again sorry that I
was silent for a few days... we had the flex coupling
repaired in Charleston, SC and were underway again.   The
second day we made Beaufort and the following day departed
Beaufort for Cape Charles.  However, about 4 hours after
departing Beaufort the drive shaft between the new coupling
and the c-drive broke.  Does anyone on the forum have any
advise regarding replacing this shaft?  The prop turns
freely and the engine and transmission seem to be working
normally.  My C-Drive looks like it can be accessed from
inside the engine room without removing the entire unit. 
Does anyone have the spec's for the shaft?  Type of
steel etc.  I know that it is 35 mm.  The replacement flex
coupling is a Vetus Type 6, KO53 (i.e. 35mm)


Regards,
Will Stout,
Anni Bea True
SM180



































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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: C-Drive

Peter Killen
 

Excuse me cropping up under this subject. I have just this morning launched pure magic and turned on the watermaker. It worked for a minute or so then the red light went on and it has not worked since 
We have checked all the hoses ect but nothing seems wrong
Has anybody got any ideas what could be the fault?
It was winterised and was perfect 
Is there a feed pump from the main seawater  inlet prior to the high pressure pump?

Peter
SM 433 Pure Magic
Currently in Halifax 


On 6 Jul 2015, at 09:13, Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Will.
That happened on my boat a few years ago.  The break was where the diameter of the shaft stepped down.  A machinist in Puerto Rico turned the larger diameter part  on his lathe 4-5 cms from the break to the same diameter as the smaller diameter part, then welded a collar of about 7-8 mm thickness over both ends.  All agreed it was stronger than the original.  There are pics of the broken and repaired shaft in a photo folder named "Amel SM Transmission/CDrive".  Not sure why they are interspersed with other pics, but there are 4 or 5 pics.

I was told that Amel doesn't like to sell only one part of the CDrive because of the gears perhaps being slightly different ( they are made as a set).  If the gears all seem to be in good shape, the repair will save you a lot of money and time.  And yes, the repair can be done without hauling the boat.

Hope that helps.
Kent
SM243
Kristy


On Jul 5, 2015, at 11:16 PM, tango708@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Oliver,
Thanks again sorry that I was silent for a few days... we had the flex coupling repaired in Charleston, SC and were underway again.   The second day we made Beaufort and the following day departed Beaufort for Cape Charles.  However, about 4 hours after departing Beaufort the drive shaft between the new coupling and the c-drive broke.  Does anyone on the forum have any advise regarding replacing this shaft?  The prop turns freely and the engine and transmission seem to be working normally.  My C-Drive looks like it can be accessed from inside the engine room without removing the entire unit.  Does anyone have the spec's for the shaft?  Type of steel etc.  I know that it is 35 mm.  The replacement flex coupling is a Vetus Type 6, KO53 (i.e. 35mm)


Regards,
Will Stout,
Anni Bea True
SM180


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bottom Paint Warning

karkauai
 

Hi, Bill,
I've been doing some research about all this, and talking to the paint gurus here at Deltaville Boat Yard.

It seems that CopperCoat works extremely well in colder water like the NE USA and Mediterranean, but not so much in the tropics, where I'll be doing most of my sailing.

Micron66 is great paint for the tropics, but apparently doesn't do well in brackish water.  Here on the Chesapeake they put Micron 66 on a boat at the owner's request, and had to repaint in just a few months.  Interlux paid the bill for the prep and new paint job.  Since I'll be in brackish water for the next several months, I'm going to go with their recommended Pettit Ultima SR60.  When they have the old paint removed and the hull is dry enough, they'll put a coat of primer and two coats of paint.  I'll let you know how it does.

It turns out that SeaHawk Island 44, the tin-based paint is available almost everywhere but the US.  It's actually sold in the US but can only be applied to boats of 75ftLOA.  Most large ships and USNavy ships are painted with similar paints to avoid hauling out so often.  So us little boats are the least likely to be polluting with bottom paint, but are the only ones who can't buy it here. What a crock!  Gotta love the EPA.  If this Pettit paint doesn't last more than a couple years, I'll probably go elsewhere and have Island 44 put on again.

Steady as she goes.
Kent
SM243
Kristy


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] New file uploaded to amelyachtowners

karkauai
 

Not exactly sure yet Eric, getting with electrician today.  Because the tach gets its info from the alternator, it may be more complicated than the 4JH3 that gets its info from the shaft (?or cam?).  I'll let you know when I figure it out.
Kent
SM243
Kristy


On Jul 6, 2015, at 4:21 AM, sailormon kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi ,

Our Yanmar came with VDO gauges separate from the main engine panel.

Each sender and gauge is isolated ground .

How do you plan on isolating the Yanmar alternator?

I purchased a spare and after thinking about it I believe my spare is not isolated ground.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Friday, June 26, 2015 11:13 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] New file uploaded to amelyachtowners

 

 


Hello,

This email message is a notification to let you know that
a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the amelyachtowners
group.

File : /_Kit isolation Yanmar.pdf
Uploaded by : karkauai <karkauai@...>
Description : Schematic and photos from Amel that show how to electrically isolate the Yanmar 4JH4HTE. It requires making your own new wiring harness, isolated ground switches and senders for oil pressure and temperature cut-off and gauges, isolated ground alternator(s), diodes, and a solenoid in the negative wire between the block and the negative battery post. The isolated ground components are grounded back to the battery instead of being grounded to the block. The starter and stop solenoid cannot be isolated, so they operate via the solenoid when the engine is cranked or stop switch is compressed. As soon as the key is released to the "run" position, or the stop button is released, the solenoid opens the circuit so that the engine is no longer connected to the negative battery post.
The most difficult part of this project is finding the proper isolated ground senders and switches. Yanmar will not release the specs. You can get the numbers and thread sizes directly from the senders and switches (the numbers are stamped in the hex heads used to tighten them into the block), but they still have to be interpreted, and comparable isolated ground parts found. I will post this when I am certain that I have something that works.

You can access this file at the URL:
https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/amelyachtowners/files/_Kit%20isolation%20Yanmar.pdf

To learn more about file sharing for your group, please visit:
https://help.yahoo.com/kb/index?page=content&y=PROD_GRPS&locale=en_US&id=SLN15398

Regards,

karkauai <karkauai@...>