Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Thank you Kent !!! Loose bolt in C-drive and broken spurrs

eric freedman
 

Kent,

Thanks!

I will check it tomorrow.

When do you think you will be heading up this way?

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, July 11, 2015 8:48 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Thank you Kent !!! Loose bolt in C-drive and broken spurrs

 

 

I can't surf the net right now, Eric.  I'll find it tomorrow.

The hole in the lower CDrive (what I'm calling the Foot) where the bolt goes through is about 8 cm in diameter.  The bolt goes through a stainless sleeve (thin, less than a mm thick with a collar at the top).  Between the sleeve and the foot are two pieces of rubber hose, one inside the other, that fit snugly around the sleeve and snugly into the hole through the foot.  They absorb any shock when the drive is put in gear, and vibration when running.  If you can wiggle the foot back and forth when the bolt is in place, those rubber bushings are worn and should be replaced.  The Foot should be immobile when bolted to the keel.

 

There is a rubber washer between the bottom of the foot and the keel that I guess should keep water out of the threads, but I'm skeptical that it's tight enough to do the job.  I don't really see what good the sealant does on top of the bolt, since it is going through the sleeve and is also "protected" from below by the iffy rubber washer.   Like I said, on Kristy there was no sealant on top of the bolt and it looked like new.  I don't know what kind of thread protector was used before, but the bolt held firmly and came out without too much difficulty.  I'll see if I can find it, but I think the instructions from Amel said NOT to use a thread lock.

More tomorrow.

Kent

SM243

Kristy

Currently Deltaville VA


On Jul 11, 2015, at 8:10 PM, sailormon kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Kent,

My C-Drive bolt was sealed with a rubbery substance and was slightly domed at the top , I always thought it was a rubber cap for something.

I do not understand what you are speaking about with respect to the bushings.

Could you Please direct me to a drawing of the drive. I know it is somewhere on our site.

Fair Winds

Eric

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, July 11, 2015 7:59 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Thank you Kent !!! Loose bolt in C-drive and broken spurrs

 

 

Hi Eric,

There wasn't anything sealing the top of the bolt on Kristy.  It was exposed and looked to be in fine shape.  Makes me wonder if the CDrive had been removed before I bought her.  I put some waterproof grease (lanocote) on the threads before bolting it back down.  Since I'm on the hard again, I'll be interested to hear what Olivier says about sealing it.  

 

Are you able to wiggle the lower drive side to side at all?  If so you may need new rubber bushings that go between the stainless sleeve and the "foot".  There are two pieces of rubber hose (one big enough to fit snugly over the other) that go into the hole in the foot.  The steel sleeve goes inside the smaller hose, and the bolt goes through the sleeve.

 

Kent

SM 243

Kristy


On Jul 11, 2015, at 7:25 PM, sailormon kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi,

I hauled Kimberlite today to fix some water intrusion in the C-Drive.

After reading what you had done and some of Olivier’s explanation as to what was hiding under that black silicone button on the foot of the C-drive.
I cur away the silicone and found the bolt in question. I was amazed to find that it was loose enough that I could turn it with my fingers. I tightened it with a 30 mm socket that I use for the prop puller.

I was wondering if it can be removed and put a thread sealant on it, Also, in the past when I used a lot of silicone to close something up , It took many days to harden. Is there something special that you used to seal the bolt?

 

When taking the spurs line cutter off the shaft I also noted that one of the two small cap screws was missing along with a piece of the spurs unit.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

 

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Thank you Kent !!! Loose bolt in C-drive and broken spurrs

karkauai
 

I can't surf the net right now, Eric.  I'll find it tomorrow.
The hole in the lower CDrive (what I'm calling the Foot) where the bolt goes through is about 8 cm in diameter.  The bolt goes through a stainless sleeve (thin, less than a mm thick with a collar at the top).  Between the sleeve and the foot are two pieces of rubber hose, one inside the other, that fit snugly around the sleeve and snugly into the hole through the foot.  They absorb any shock when the drive is put in gear, and vibration when running.  If you can wiggle the foot back and forth when the bolt is in place, those rubber bushings are worn and should be replaced.  The Foot should be immobile when bolted to the keel.

There is a rubber washer between the bottom of the foot and the keel that I guess should keep water out of the threads, but I'm skeptical that it's tight enough to do the job.  I don't really see what good the sealant does on top of the bolt, since it is going through the sleeve and is also "protected" from below by the iffy rubber washer.   Like I said, on Kristy there was no sealant on top of the bolt and it looked like new.  I don't know what kind of thread protector was used before, but the bolt held firmly and came out without too much difficulty.  I'll see if I can find it, but I think the instructions from Amel said NOT to use a thread lock.
More tomorrow.
Kent
SM243
Kristy
Currently Deltaville VA


On Jul 11, 2015, at 8:10 PM, sailormon kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Kent,

My C-Drive bolt was sealed with a rubbery substance and was slightly domed at the top , I always thought it was a rubber cap for something.

I do not understand what you are speaking about with respect to the bushings.

Could you Please direct me to a drawing of the drive. I know it is somewhere on our site.

Fair Winds

Eric

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, July 11, 2015 7:59 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Thank you Kent !!! Loose bolt in C-drive and broken spurrs

 

 

Hi Eric,

There wasn't anything sealing the top of the bolt on Kristy.  It was exposed and looked to be in fine shape.  Makes me wonder if the CDrive had been removed before I bought her.  I put some waterproof grease (lanocote) on the threads before bolting it back down.  Since I'm on the hard again, I'll be interested to hear what Olivier says about sealing it.  

 

Are you able to wiggle the lower drive side to side at all?  If so you may need new rubber bushings that go between the stainless sleeve and the "foot".  There are two pieces of rubber hose (one big enough to fit snugly over the other) that go into the hole in the foot.  The steel sleeve goes inside the smaller hose, and the bolt goes through the sleeve.

 

Kent

SM 243

Kristy


On Jul 11, 2015, at 7:25 PM, sailormon kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi,

I hauled Kimberlite today to fix some water intrusion in the C-Drive.

After reading what you had done and some of Olivier’s explanation as to what was hiding under that black silicone button on the foot of the C-drive.
I cur away the silicone and found the bolt in question. I was amazed to find that it was loose enough that I could turn it with my fingers. I tightened it with a 30 mm socket that I use for the prop puller.

I was wondering if it can be removed and put a thread sealant on it, Also, in the past when I used a lot of silicone to close something up , It took many days to harden. Is there something special that you used to seal the bolt?

 

When taking the spurs line cutter off the shaft I also noted that one of the two small cap screws was missing along with a piece of the spurs unit.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

 

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Thank you Kent !!! Loose bolt in C-drive and broken spurrs

eric freedman
 

Kent,

My C-Drive bolt was sealed with a rubbery substance and was slightly domed at the top , I always thought it was a rubber cap for something.

I do not understand what you are speaking about with respect to the bushings.

Could you Please direct me to a drawing of the drive. I know it is somewhere on our site.

Fair Winds

Eric

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, July 11, 2015 7:59 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Thank you Kent !!! Loose bolt in C-drive and broken spurrs

 

 

Hi Eric,

There wasn't anything sealing the top of the bolt on Kristy.  It was exposed and looked to be in fine shape.  Makes me wonder if the CDrive had been removed before I bought her.  I put some waterproof grease (lanocote) on the threads before bolting it back down.  Since I'm on the hard again, I'll be interested to hear what Olivier says about sealing it.  

 

Are you able to wiggle the lower drive side to side at all?  If so you may need new rubber bushings that go between the stainless sleeve and the "foot".  There are two pieces of rubber hose (one big enough to fit snugly over the other) that go into the hole in the foot.  The steel sleeve goes inside the smaller hose, and the bolt goes through the sleeve.

 

Kent

SM 243

Kristy


On Jul 11, 2015, at 7:25 PM, sailormon kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi,

I hauled Kimberlite today to fix some water intrusion in the C-Drive.

After reading what you had done and some of Olivier’s explanation as to what was hiding under that black silicone button on the foot of the C-drive.
I cur away the silicone and found the bolt in question. I was amazed to find that it was loose enough that I could turn it with my fingers. I tightened it with a 30 mm socket that I use for the prop puller.

I was wondering if it can be removed and put a thread sealant on it, Also, in the past when I used a lot of silicone to close something up , It took many days to harden. Is there something special that you used to seal the bolt?

 

When taking the spurs line cutter off the shaft I also noted that one of the two small cap screws was missing along with a piece of the spurs unit.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

 

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Thank you Kent !!! Loose bolt in C-drive and broken spurrs

karkauai
 

Hi Eric,
There wasn't anything sealing the top of the bolt on Kristy.  It was exposed and looked to be in fine shape.  Makes me wonder if the CDrive had been removed before I bought her.  I put some waterproof grease (lanocote) on the threads before bolting it back down.  Since I'm on the hard again, I'll be interested to hear what Olivier says about sealing it.  

Are you able to wiggle the lower drive side to side at all?  If so you may need new rubber bushings that go between the stainless sleeve and the "foot".  There are two pieces of rubber hose (one big enough to fit snugly over the other) that go into the hole in the foot.  The steel sleeve goes inside the smaller hose, and the bolt goes through the sleeve.

Kent
SM 243
Kristy


On Jul 11, 2015, at 7:25 PM, sailormon kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi,

I hauled Kimberlite today to fix some water intrusion in the C-Drive.

After reading what you had done and some of Olivier’s explanation as to what was hiding under that black silicone button on the foot of the C-drive.
I cur away the silicone and found the bolt in question. I was amazed to find that it was loose enough that I could turn it with my fingers. I tightened it with a 30 mm socket that I use for the prop puller.

I was wondering if it can be removed and put a thread sealant on it, Also, in the past when I used a lot of silicone to close something up , It took many days to harden. Is there something special that you used to seal the bolt?

 

When taking the spurs line cutter off the shaft I also noted that one of the two small cap screws was missing along with a piece of the spurs unit.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

 

 


Thank you Kent !!! Loose bolt in C-drive and broken spurrs

eric freedman
 

Hi,

I hauled Kimberlite today to fix some water intrusion in the C-Drive.

After reading what you had done and some of Olivier’s explanation as to what was hiding under that black silicone button on the foot of the C-drive.
I cur away the silicone and found the bolt in question. I was amazed to find that it was loose enough that I could turn it with my fingers. I tightened it with a 30 mm socket that I use for the prop puller.

I was wondering if it can be removed and put a thread sealant on it, Also, in the past when I used a lot of silicone to close something up , It took many days to harden. Is there something special that you used to seal the bolt?

 

When taking the spurs line cutter off the shaft I also noted that one of the two small cap screws was missing along with a piece of the spurs unit.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

 

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Water maker

Peter Killen
 

Hi All
The answer to my problem turned out to be the high pressure switch which had defaulted. We can operate the system on 24v for the present until I can get a replacement part. 
Kind regards 
Peter
S/M 433 Pure Magic


On 10 Jul 2015, at 10:07, yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Keith,


For some reason my reply to you was broken in half by something.

I will try again.

Keith,

Maybe I misunderstood your earlier email where you said, "...water is pumped through the system and out through the hull..." The pressure valve is designed to increase pressure to the outside of the membranes by restricting the outflow...thus increasing pressure. It is actually very simple. 

I would not run the water maker until you find the source of the problem which could be:
  1. Source of saltwater is restricted by a closed valve, clogged prefilter(s), clogged line, supply pump (sometimes referred to as low pressure pump), not working or clogged. 
  2. Failure of the HP pump, which could be failed ceramic pistons, cracked head, or loose head (I had this "loose head" thing happen to me...bolts loosened and no pressure...tightened them up and all was good).
  3. Failure of the connection between the motor and the HP pump
  4. Dump valve stuck open (if you have this...I think newer systems do).
  5. Pressure adjustment valve not working correctly...i.e. not actually closing to increase pressure.
Some of your other questions:
Yes, a carbon filter will remove chlorine. I have seen many water maker installations with a carbon filter in-line with the flush line. I do not know why this is not standard on the Dessalator systems. The Dessalator Manual says: "Please note that the drinking water produced by your reverse osmosis system is essentially sterile, however, your fresh water storage should be treated periodically with chlorine or iodine to ensure it remains consumable. Pay attention not to allow chlorine into the desalination system, as this could damage the device."
I am not sure how Dessalator assumes that we "not to allow chlorine into the desalination system without a carbon filter to block the chlorine.

Regarding fresh water being a problem for membranes, I disagree and don't think so...the manual states:
 The membranes should be permanently immersed in liquid, either sea water before treatment, fresh water provisionally stored or sterilizing liquid, if the desalinator is not used for extended periods of time (Sterilizer is effective for six months and must be replaced after this period of time).

I believe the two biggest enemies of the Dessalator system are:
  • Chlorine
  • Dried membranes
  • Sterilizing or Cleaning chemicals (same chemical, but Dessalator uses both terms)
  • Overdosing Sterilizing or Cleaning chemical. I think that if you absolutely have to do this, use 50% of the quantity of chemical and do not leave the chemical in the membrane tubes, but rather flush with tank water for 15 minutes. The chemical is caustic!
Flushing regularly and after each use, or a minimum of once a week---for 6 minutes, with tank water, and using a carbon filter to block any chlorine is the best thing you can do.

All that said, I am no expert. My knowledge has been gained through years of sometimes costly experience.

Bill
BeBe 387


Re: Generator/Shorepower Transfer Switch

svperegrinus@yahoo.com
 

Thank you Olivier for the recommendation to have the solenoid on the transfer switch checked.  We'll do this on Monday.

Having said that, on advice from an experienced friend, we try and avoid using the transfer switch as much as possible; i.e., if for some reason the generator must be powered while plugged into shore power, we usually go and turn the shore power breaker off in advance.

Peregrinus


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Water maker

Alan Leslie
 

Duane / Bill

This is what Dow say about Filmtec membranes and chlorine...

The membrane shows some resistance to short-term attack by chlorine (hypochlorite). The free chlorine tolerance of the membrane is < 0.1 ppm. Continuous exposure, however, may damage the membrane and should be avoided. Under certain conditions, the presence of free chlorine and other oxidizing agents will cause premature membrane failure. Since oxidation damage is not covered under warranty, FilmTec recommends removing residual free chlorine by pretreatment prior to membrane exposure. Please refer to Chlorination / Dechlorination (Section 2.6.3) for more information. 


I'm with you Bill....NO CHLORINE

Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Water maker

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Duane,

You're an engineer. What does that quoted instruction tell you?

It tells me nothing. What is the definition of "pay attention" and "too high?"  Also membranes for saltwater are different than RO membranes for your home. The saltwater membranes are constructed differently and their model numbers have a prefix of SW.

There is certainly lots of anecdotal data out here to suggest that chlorine is harmful to SW membranes, and there are lots of experienced sailors who claim that it is.

Possibly this needs to be researched because Filmtec completely changed its manufacturing process to a complete robotic assembly about 10 years ago. Prices went down and water quality went up. Possibly, they also did something about purported Chlorine vulnerability. Since there is only one manufacturer of membranes, it is probably easy to research this. Frankly, I am sticking with my anti-chlorine prejudices.

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+39 333 121 8115 Italy Mobile
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail

On Jul 11, 2015 4:13 AM, "sailor63109@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

In regard to chlorine, my Owners Manual seems to allow the chlorine level in potable water: "   Payattention not to allow pure chlorine (or a too high dose of chlorine) in the the desalination system, as this could damage the device."


The filters are sold for home systems to reduce the TDS and they would be subject to the chlorine in typical potable water systems.

Duane
Wanderer, #477


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Water maker

Alan Leslie
 

Chlorine kills RO membranes...period.
NEVER allow water containing chlorine in the watermaker....good idea to have an activated carbon filter before the membranes in the case that you may have put chlorinated water in your tank. The carbon filter will remove chlorine from the water.....I have 5micron carbon impregnated filters that work well.
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Water maker

Ann-Sofie Svanberg <kanalmamman@...>
 

The filters will probably manage the chlorine, but the membranes doesn't. It is enough to flush the system with land water containing chlorine to destroy them.

/Annsofie
S/Y Lady Annila, Sm #232
Present at Algarve, Portugal

Skickat från min iPad

11 jul 2015 kl. 03:13 skrev sailor63109@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>:

 

In regard to chlorine, my Owners Manual seems to allow the chlorine level in potable water: " Payattention not to allow pure chlorine (or a too high dose of chlorine) in the the desalination system, as this could damage the device."


The filters are sold for home systems to reduce the TDS and they would be subject to the chlorine in typical potable water systems.

Duane
Wanderer, #477
  
  


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Water maker

Duane Siegfri
 

In regard to chlorine, my Owners Manual seems to allow the chlorine level in potable water: " Payattention not to allow pure chlorine (or a too high dose of chlorine) in the the desalination system, as this could damage the device."

The filters are sold for home systems to reduce the TDS and they would be subject to the chlorine in typical potable water systems.

Duane
Wanderer, #477
  
  


Re: Globe "run dry" impellers

svperegrinus@yahoo.com
 

With regard to Bill's results:

We purchased a Globe or two as spares but had a Yanmar impeller installed since our last replacement in January 2014.  When earlier this year the Yanmar specialist mechanic in Fort Lauderdale installed new injectors in March, I asked him to replace the impeller, which was now 15 months old.  The impeller was found missing a blade or two.  

The mechanic flat out refused to install the Globe.  He recommends the Yanmar.  I now like the Yanmar because it now works with the available little Yanmar impeller puller.

We may never get to test the Globes.

Peregrinus


Re: A/C Saltwater Pump

svperegrinus@yahoo.com
 

Heh.

If we were in the U.S. we would purchase this tonight.  Just three months ago we had the CALPEDA rebuilt by Southern Armature and Pump Company in Fort Lauderdale... for $406 or so.  They know the pump well, they had rebuilt it once already under previous boat ownership at some unknown point in time, and they returned it to us in a couple of days looking nice and shiny.

They reported that ours did not look good inside when we took it to them.  Having said that, it never failed or underperformed in any detectable way: we were just being proactive.

Bill, if you install it, it would be nice to know how it goes.  We might ask a relative to bring it with luggage at some point in the future.

Cheerio,

Peregrinus
SM2K #350
Marina des Minimes, La Rochelle


Re: SM deck fittings

svperegrinus@yahoo.com
 

I purchased mine from Amel back in January as well and fit them today.  Easy job.  The old ones had crumbled almost completely.  Lewmar SZ1 Simple End Stop Part No. 29171040 –for Super Maramu mizzen tracks.

Cheerio,

-----


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Water maker

yahoogroups@...
 

Keith,

For some reason my reply to you was broken in half by something.

I will try again.

Keith,

Maybe I misunderstood your earlier email where you said, "...water is pumped through the system and out through the hull..." The pressure valve is designed to increase pressure to the outside of the membranes by restricting the outflow...thus increasing pressure. It is actually very simple. 

I would not run the water maker until you find the source of the problem which could be:
  1. Source of saltwater is restricted by a closed valve, clogged prefilter(s), clogged line, supply pump (sometimes referred to as low pressure pump), not working or clogged. 
  2. Failure of the HP pump, which could be failed ceramic pistons, cracked head, or loose head (I had this "loose head" thing happen to me...bolts loosened and no pressure...tightened them up and all was good).
  3. Failure of the connection between the motor and the HP pump
  4. Dump valve stuck open (if you have this...I think newer systems do).
  5. Pressure adjustment valve not working correctly...i.e. not actually closing to increase pressure.
Some of your other questions:
Yes, a carbon filter will remove chlorine. I have seen many water maker installations with a carbon filter in-line with the flush line. I do not know why this is not standard on the Dessalator systems. The Dessalator Manual says: "Please note that the drinking water produced by your reverse osmosis system is essentially sterile, however, your fresh water storage should be treated periodically with chlorine or iodine to ensure it remains consumable. Pay attention not to allow chlorine into the desalination system, as this could damage the device."

I am not sure how Dessalator assumes that we "not to allow chlorine into the desalination system without a carbon filter to block the chlorine.

Regarding fresh water being a problem for membranes, I disagree and don't think so...the manual states:
 The membranes should be permanently immersed in liquid, either sea water before treatment, fresh water provisionally stored or sterilizing liquid, if the desalinator is not used for extended periods of time (Sterilizer is effective for six months and must be replaced after this period of time).

I believe the two biggest enemies of the Dessalator system are:
  • Chlorine
  • Dried membranes
  • Sterilizing or Cleaning chemicals (same chemical, but Dessalator uses both terms)
  • Overdosing Sterilizing or Cleaning chemical. I think that if you absolutely have to do this, use 50% of the quantity of chemical and do not leave the chemical in the membrane tubes, but rather flush with tank water for 15 minutes. The chemical is caustic!
Flushing regularly and after each use, or a minimum of once a week---for 6 minutes, with tank water, and using a carbon filter to block any chlorine is the best thing you can do.

All that said, I am no expert. My knowledge has been gained through years of sometimes costly experience.

Bill
BeBe 387


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Water maker

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Keith,

Maybe I misunderstood your earlier email where you said, "...water is pumped through the system and out through the hull..." The pressure valve is designed to increase pressure to the outside of the membranes by restricting the outflow...thus increasing pressure. It is actually very simple. 

I would not run the water maker until you find the source of the problem which could be:
  1. Source of saltwater is restricted by a closed valve, clogged prefilter(s), clogged line, supply pump (sometimes referred to as low pressure pump), not working or clogged. 
  2. Failure of the HP pump, which could be failed ceramic pistons, cracked head, or loose head (I had this "loose head" thing happen to me...bolts loosened and no pressure...tightened them up and all was good).
  3. Failure of the connection between the motor and the HP pump
  4. Dump valve stuck open (if you have this...I think newer systems do).
  5. Pressure adjustment valve not working correctly...i.e. not actually closing to increase pressure.
Some of your other questions:
Yes, a carbon filter will remove chlorine. I have seen many water maker installations with a carbon filter in-line with the flush line. I do not know why this is not standard on the Dessalator systems. The Dessalator Manual says:
"Please note that the drinking water produced by your reverse osmosis system is essentially sterile, however, your fresh water storage should be treated periodically with chlorine or iodine to ensure it remains consumable. Pay attention not to allow chlorine into the desalination system, as this could damage the device."
I am not sure how Dessalator assumes that we "not to allow chlorine into the desalination system without a carbon filter to block the chlorine.

Regarding fresh water being a problem for membranes, I disagree and don't think so...the manual states:
 The membranes should be permanently immersed in liquid, either sea water before treatment, fresh water provisionally stored or sterilizing liquid, if the desalinator is not used for extended periods of time (Sterilizer is effective for six months and must be replaced after this period of time).

I believe the two biggest enemies of the Dessalator system are:
  • Chlorine
  • Dried membranes
  • Sterilizing or Cleaning chemicals (same chemical, but Dessalator uses both terms)
  • Overdosing Sterilizing or Cleaning chemical. I think that if you absolutely have to do this, use 50% of the quantity of chemical and do not leave the chemical in the membrane tubes, but rather flush with tank water for 15 minutes. The chemical is caustic!
Flushing regularly and after each use, or a minimum of once a week---for 6 minutes, with tank water, and using a carbon filter to block any chlorine is the best thing you can do.

All that said, I am no expert. My knowledge has been gained through years of sometimes costly experience.

Bill
BeBe 387
Barcelona for a month!


On Fri, Jul 10, 2015 at 10:54 AM, gegcarter@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Thanks Bill (and Danny) for the responses to my questions.


Maybe the pressure valve is faulty - but I'm not sure that would explain the lack of water emerging from anywhere, pump running.  It must either go over the side (valve open) or through the membranes and into the tank (valve closed), mustn't it? It certainly was not leaking out anywhere else (which I presume would be quite dramatic to witness, at high pressure...). 

Bill, I should have discussed this with you in Malta - I could have seen your whizzy automatic flushing system too. 

Elsewhere in the forum I have seen angry comments about the 'quality' light (which is far from having relevance to me, sadly) - and on reviewing the Desallator manual I see that 'the biggest enemy of the membranes is fresh water' whilst in the Amel owners' manual we are instructed to flush with fresh water after use, and your syst em seems to be doing that.  Does the carbon filter remove chlorine, which I read is also an enemy of the membranes (which seem to have few friends)?

PS - my system is the 60l/hr one - no low-pressure pump, 'detuned' CAT pump. 

Keith

GUMA (SM 261) 



Re: Water maker

gegcarter@...
 

Thanks Bill (and Danny) for the responses to my questions.

Maybe the pressure valve is faulty - but I'm not sure that would explain the lack of water emerging from anywhere, pump running.  It must either go over the side (valve open) or through the membranes and into the tank (valve closed), mustn't it? It certainly was not leaking out anywhere else (which I presume would be quite dramatic to witness, at high pressure...). 

Bill, I should have discussed this with you in Malta - I could have seen your whizzy automatic flushing system too. 

Elsewhere in the forum I have seen angry comments about the 'quality' light (which is far from having relevance to me, sadly) - and on reviewing the Desallator manual I see that 'the biggest enemy of the membranes is fresh water' whilst in the Amel owners' manual we are instructed to flush with fresh water after use, and your system seems to be doing that.  Does the carbon filter remove chlorine, which I read is also an enemy of the membranes (which seem to have few friends)?

PS - my system is the 60l/hr one - no low-pressure pump, 'detuned' CAT pump. 

Keith

GUMA (SM 261) 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Globe "run dry" impellers

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Duane,

I purchased a March AC5-C-MD, 1000GPH, 230v 50/60Hz


Everything else that you may want to know is here: http://www.marchpump.com/ac-5c-md/

Bill
BeBe 387

On Thu, Jul 9, 2015 at 7:51 PM, sailor63109@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

What model March pump did you get?  I'd be interested in hearing how it works.


Duane
Wanderer #477



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Water maker

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Derrick,

All good questions, most of which I will answer in a day or two with photos, etc.

With the Amel-installed rinsing lever off, my 24V timer still opens the 24V valve for 6 minutes on Wednesday and Sunday, but no rinsing takes place because the Amel-installed rinsing lever is off. (No harm/no foul). When we leave the boat for some time, and if we want to continue this rinsing cycle in our absence, we leave both the Amel-installed rinsing lever and the freshwater pump circuit breaker on to provide the fresh water pressure.

I do not remember the amp rating of the timer, but think it is 10 amps. If you purchased a timer that could handle the amps of the fresh water pump (my pump draws 12 amps), then yes, you could run the pump and the valve. However, if you wanted this option, you might consider a separate timer for the pump. These timers have a Man/Auto switch that would work in this situation, and could possibly be wired to have current with the battery switches OFF.

I will get back to this thread with more information in a day or two.

Bill
BeBe 387 

On Thu, Jul 9, 2015 at 10:13 PM, derickgates@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Bill,


I forgot to ask - what size pipe (0.5", 0.75", 1"?) is that Amel-installed rinsing lever and what threads?  BST? NPS? Metric?

Derick

SM2k #400 Brava
Currently on the hard in Antigua