Date   

Re: Diving compressors, tenders and davits

Roger Frederiks <rofred@...>
 

Erick, merci pour vos conseils. Je contacterai Bauer France quand Amel
commence avec la construction de mon bateau en 2008. However, for the
benefit of all the English speakers here, perhaps better if we adhere
to this forum's lingua franca. I merely wished to point out that I'm
quite happy communicating in French, and, in fact, I use this method
when talking to Amel in La Rochelle.
Safe diving and fair winds.

Roger Frederiks


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "G D" <maramu@...> wrote:

Bonjour Roger
Le contact que j'avais chez Bauer est
Nathalie Pechoux Tel. +33 479 88 71 69
npechoux@...

Pour information le tuyau haute pression de remplissage doit mesurer
environ
1m. Je cale les bouteilles contre le siege du barreur quand je fais un
remplissage.
Attention de bien preciser � la commande le type de robineterie des
bouteilles DIN ou autre.
Cordialement

Erick MEJEAN


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Charter an Amel SM-2000 in Greece

george bauer <georgex12003@...>
 

Could you pls send me your tel number as I am
interested for this summer. Many thanks

carl bauer
+44 7767 291 048
--- Krassopoulos Dimitris <dkra@otenet.gr> wrote:


---------------------------------

As I have recently sold all my other business
interests in Greece, I wish to
advise all of you that you can Charter ALMA LIBRE
SM-2000 ( 2002 Model) in
Greece. I believe that this a good opportunity to
charter the boat in Greece
for sailing in the Aegean Sea which is a sailing
paradise.

More information at
www.almalibre.gr/chartering/index.htm . All the
details
and inventory of the boat are at the website
www.almalibre.gr I will be
glad to welcome you onboard and please refer this also
to your friends that
wish to charter a well found boat in this part of the
world.

Regards

Dimitris Krassopoulos
dkra@almalibre.gr





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Re: BOWTHRUSTER SEAL PROBLEMS

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

22 Mar 2006

Eric:

On my bow thruster the flat side of the seal faced the sea water and propeller,
while the concave side with the spring faced the recess in the bow thruster.

The bow thruster recess is made of fiberglass so it is necessary to be very
careful when removing the seal not to damage the seat area of the recess. Also,
since the seal didn't fit particularly tighly in its recess I used a little RTV
(room temperature vulcanizing) silicone sealant to help assure that it
stayed in place. This I did at the suggestion of Ray Eaton (Amels service
rep in Ft. Lauderdale).

Regards,

Gary Silver Amel SM 2000 Hull # 335

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, eric <kimberlite@...> wrote:

Vito,

The lip seal on the bow thruster's propeller shaft has 2 sides one flat side
and one concave side with a spring showing.

Which side faces the sea water and propeller?

Fair Winds,

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of asm283
Sent: Monday, May 01, 2006 8:42 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: BOWTHRUSTER SEAL PROBLEMS



Hello

Seals leaking is a common problem. Changing the seals regularly
helps. I change them every time the boat is out of the water. It is
a very simple procedure. There are 3 seals 1 inside the boat and two
between the shaft and the unit.

The Bow Thruster can be removed and serviced while the boat is in
the water. You need a special tool from Amel or a diver. I have
never done this but I believe if you search this site you can find
the best procedure.

There is a way to adjust the pressure that is put on the seals by
adjusting the motor travel. I have described how to do this in the
previous post about bow thruster not going up all the way. Also if
you put the safety pin in this may help.

When you remove the unit dont forget to change the oil. If there is
water in the oil you will also need to change the seal on the prop.
Again very simple procedure.

Good luck

Vito

Wanderer

asm 283

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "L. CAMERON"
<solarconstruction@> wrote:



FROM LADY DIVINA, SM 317
MY BOWTHRUSTER IS LEAKING ALOT OF SEAWATER ONLY WHEN SAILING
THRU SOME SWELL, BUT NOT AT ANCHOR. A 4-5 HOUR SAIL WILL LEAK 2-3
GALLONS INTO THE BILGE BY THE FORE HEAD PASSAGEWAY.
MY QUESTIONS ARE:
1) WHY IS THIS UNIT WITH VERY LITTLE USE LEAKING THRU THE SEALS
ON A YEAR 2001 BOAT?? DOES AMEL WARANTY THIS IF IT IS SO COMMON??
2) HAS ANYONE CHANGED THE SEALS WHILE AT ANCHOR?? IS THEIR SEA
WATER INTRUSION WHEN THE UNIT IS DROPPED OUT IN CALM WATERS?
3) WILL GREASING THE SHAFT AND MOVING THE UNIT UP & DOWN TO
LUBRICATE THE SEALS, MINIMIZE THE PROBLEM UNTIL I CAN HAULOUT MORE
CONVENIENTLY??
4) DOES ANYONE HAVE A CLEAR SCHEMATIC SHOWING THE SEALS?? HOW
MANY SEALS ARE THERE TO CHANGE??
THANKS FOR ANY HELP!!! LADY DIVINA SM#317



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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] HOT WATER HEATER - ZINCS

eric freedman
 

I was able to remove the heating element and the zinc without removing the
whole heater from the engine room.

I just dis-connected the electric. I then ran the water till the water in
the tank was cold. I then removed the in and out water lines and electrical
connections and unbolted the heater element. It is a little tricky putting
it back together because the bolts do not want to stay in place in that
position but doable.

Fair Winds,

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of pjppappas
Sent: Monday, May 01, 2006 11:26 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] HOT WATER HEATER - ZINCS



RE THE NAUTIC 45
For those of you who have not had the pleasure of changeing the
zincs I thought I would post this message. I have just completed
the awful task on my supermarmu #369 "CALLISTO".
You will need:
1. Small phillips srewdriver
2. Staigth edge screwdriver
3. Pen or tape to mark hoses and electrical wires. (mark everything)
4. Small bucket
5. 13 mm box end wrench
6. 13 mm rachet drive
7. Rags
8. Time (4 hrs)
9. Patients

1. Disconnect from shore power, throw hot water breaker off (220v
circuit), turn off water pump (24v circuit)
2. Drain water using the release valve on the hot water outlet (the
bottom hose). It may not drain all of the water.
3. Disconnect cold water inlet and hot water outlet. Stand back
there will be more water.
4. Disconnect from the hot water heater the two hoses coming from
the engine. You will need to catch the fluid in a small bucket or
you will have a mess that you can not get to.
5. Disconnect the two bands securing the heater in place (disconnect
the stern side). You can now raise the empty heater (about 40 pounds)
to a horizontal level. It will wedge in place.
6. Remove the plastic shield form the bottom of the heater.
7. Disconnect all electrical connections.
8. Remove the eight bolts that hold the bottom of the heater in
place.
9. Remove the bottom. It will be a little sticky - pry loose with
screw driver.
10. Inspect the zincs, find that they are still in good shape and
that you have wasted your time. Mine are a year old and still 3/4
left.
11. Put the whole business back together.
12. Clean up the mess.
13. Remember. "there is nothing - absolutely nothing - half so much
worth doing as simply messing about in boats" GRAHAME

Peter Pappas


















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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: BOWTHRUSTER SEAL PROBLEMS

eric freedman
 

Vito,

The lip seal on the bow thruster’s propeller shaft has 2 sides one flat side
and one concave side with a spring showing.

Which side faces the sea water and propeller?

Fair Winds,

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of asm283
Sent: Monday, May 01, 2006 8:42 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: BOWTHRUSTER SEAL PROBLEMS



Hello

Seals leaking is a common problem. Changing the seals regularly
helps. I change them every time the boat is out of the water. It is
a very simple procedure. There are 3 seals 1 inside the boat and two
between the shaft and the unit.

The Bow Thruster can be removed and serviced while the boat is in
the water. You need a special tool from Amel or a diver. I have
never done this but I believe if you search this site you can find
the best procedure.

There is a way to adjust the pressure that is put on the seals by
adjusting the motor travel. I have described how to do this in the
previous post about bow thruster not going up all the way. Also if
you put the safety pin in this may help.

When you remove the unit dont forget to change the oil. If there is
water in the oil you will also need to change the seal on the prop.
Again very simple procedure.

Good luck

Vito

Wanderer

asm 283

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "L. CAMERON"
<solarconstruction@...> wrote:



FROM LADY DIVINA, SM 317
MY BOWTHRUSTER IS LEAKING ALOT OF SEAWATER ONLY WHEN SAILING
THRU SOME SWELL, BUT NOT AT ANCHOR. A 4-5 HOUR SAIL WILL LEAK 2-3
GALLONS INTO THE BILGE BY THE FORE HEAD PASSAGEWAY.
MY QUESTIONS ARE:
1) WHY IS THIS UNIT WITH VERY LITTLE USE LEAKING THRU THE SEALS
ON A YEAR 2001 BOAT?? DOES AMEL WARANTY THIS IF IT IS SO COMMON??
2) HAS ANYONE CHANGED THE SEALS WHILE AT ANCHOR?? IS THEIR SEA
WATER INTRUSION WHEN THE UNIT IS DROPPED OUT IN CALM WATERS?
3) WILL GREASING THE SHAFT AND MOVING THE UNIT UP & DOWN TO
LUBRICATE THE SEALS, MINIMIZE THE PROBLEM UNTIL I CAN HAULOUT MORE
CONVENIENTLY??
4) DOES ANYONE HAVE A CLEAR SCHEMATIC SHOWING THE SEALS?? HOW
MANY SEALS ARE THERE TO CHANGE??
THANKS FOR ANY HELP!!! LADY DIVINA SM#317



---------------------------------
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just 2¢/min with Yahoo! Messenger with Voice.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Bowthruster does not rise far enough on Super Maramu

eric freedman
 

Hi,

My Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite has electronic sensors on the bow
thrusters lift assembly . They are attached with clamps around the assembly.

What do theses sensors do and how are they adjusted?

Fair Winds,

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of asm283
Sent: Sunday, April 30, 2006 1:39 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Bowthruster does not rise far enough on
Super Maramu



Hi Mark

I am not sure that your setup is the same as the one on Wanderer
hull # 283. So this is how I adjust my Bow thruster.

If you observe the assembly as it rises and falls you will see that
there is a rod with two metal arrows on it.One at the top and the
other on the bootom. These arrows press on a button and this tells
the motor when to stop running. These arrows can be adjusted quite
easily using and allen wrench. Its quite simple once you do it.

Good luck.

Vito Ciaravino

ASM 283

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "markmpitt" <mark_pitt@...>
wrote:

A couple of days ago I did some work on the bow thruster that
involved
partly removing the motor as well as changing the seals and the
oil in
the bow thruster prop assembly. I have it all back together now
but I
cannot get the whole thing to ascend far enough to put the safety
pin
in place unless someone stands under the boat (it is on the hard)
and
pushes up with some force. Before this maintenance, I could insert
the safety pin judge by pulling lightly on the cable. How can I
adjust
things so that I can get the motor to rise a small amount more so
that
I can insert the safety pin? There were two spongy seals on
between
the prop assembly and the hull, so I replaced them with two new
seals.
Could two seals be the source of the problem?

Mark Pitt
"Sabbatical III" ASM #419






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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Diving compressors, tenders and davits

G D <maramu@...>
 

Bonjour Roger
Le contact que j'avais chez Bauer est
Nathalie Pechoux Tel. +33 479 88 71 69
npechoux@bauer-compresseurs.com

Pour information le tuyau haute pression de remplissage doit mesurer environ 1m. Je cale les bouteilles contre le siege du barreur quand je fais un remplissage.
Attention de bien preciser la commande le type de robineterie des bouteilles DIN ou autre.
Cordialement

Erick MEJEAN



----Original Message Follows----
From: "Roger Frederiks" <rofred@dsl.pipex.com>
Reply-To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Diving compressors, tenders and davits
Date: Fri, 19 May 2006 06:56:38 -0000

Dear Ian and Erick
Thanks for the feedback on the Bauer compressor. I'm definitely going
to ask Amel to install it then! Yes, they are noisy things so we may
not be terribly popular at some anchorages, but at least we'll be
totally independent from any shore based filling stations. Erick,
thanks for reminding me about Charles' Law. I'd nearly forgotten about
that... ;) However, when on expedition in remote tropical locations we
used to have our tanks submerged in an open barrel with water in order
to keep them cool when being filled. Not sure if this is possible on
an Amel, as the tanks may well have to sit next to the compressor in
the port cockpit locker. Amel have said they can make a custom tank
holder frame once they've been given the tank dimensions.
So, right now, not yet sure if to go for the Junior II or the Oceanus.
Also thanks for the info on contacting Bauer France. Je suis
francophone, donc je me debrouille en franais. :)

As an aside, Ian, I read your comment about RIB's. So far, I've looked
at both AB and Caribe and possibly Avon, but it sure seems as if the
Southern Pacific Sheerwater may well be worth investigating in view of
its much lighter weight. I'm not sure yet if I'm going to go for the
Amel davits. They certainly look very solid but in my view they also
spoil the attractive lines of the 54. So perhaps I shall stay with the
tried and tested method of using a halyard and winch for lifting and
lowering the tender and outboard.
Incidentally, for the Amel 54 they are the Series 7 Simpson Davits and
can be seen on http://www.simpson-davits.co.uk/traditional-davits.php

I have lots more questions but plenty of time for that later.
Cheers, Roger


Diving compressors, tenders and davits

Roger Frederiks <rofred@...>
 

Dear Ian and Erick
Thanks for the feedback on the Bauer compressor. I'm definitely going
to ask Amel to install it then! Yes, they are noisy things so we may
not be terribly popular at some anchorages, but at least we'll be
totally independent from any shore based filling stations. Erick,
thanks for reminding me about Charles' Law. I'd nearly forgotten about
that... ;) However, when on expedition in remote tropical locations we
used to have our tanks submerged in an open barrel with water in order
to keep them cool when being filled. Not sure if this is possible on
an Amel, as the tanks may well have to sit next to the compressor in
the port cockpit locker. Amel have said they can make a custom tank
holder frame once they've been given the tank dimensions.
So, right now, not yet sure if to go for the Junior II or the Oceanus.
Also thanks for the info on contacting Bauer France. Je suis
francophone, donc je me debrouille en fran�ais. :)

As an aside, Ian, I read your comment about RIB's. So far, I've looked
at both AB and Caribe and possibly Avon, but it sure seems as if the
Southern Pacific Sheerwater may well be worth investigating in view of
its much lighter weight. I'm not sure yet if I'm going to go for the
Amel davits. They certainly look very solid but in my view they also
spoil the attractive lines of the 54. So perhaps I shall stay with the
tried and tested method of using a halyard and winch for lifting and
lowering the tender and outboard.
Incidentally, for the Amel 54 they are the Series 7 Simpson Davits and
can be seen on http://www.simpson-davits.co.uk/traditional-davits.php

I have lots more questions but plenty of time for that later.
Cheers, Roger


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] U-drive oil

ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 

Hi Judy, When we bought Pen Azen new we were told 15W40 and it seems to have worked happily ever since. Incidentally, as well as the two external and one internal soft foam rings to be replaced on the bowthruster you can also replace the hard seal which sits inside the boat . Once the shaft is out of the boat you have to work at it with your fingers till it allows itself to be prized loose but a good hard push down will relocate the new one.
Fair winds, Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302, Uruguay

From: "jrjrjrouse2000" <sailingjudy@gmail.com>
Reply-To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] U-drive oil
Date: Tue, 09 May 2006 22:33:14 -0000

We pulled our Autoprop for service, thus draining the oil for the U-
drive. Looking for verification of weight of oil for replacement.
Notes we have from previous postings on this website state 15W40, but
the sticker in the engine room on the place where the oil should be
added states 20W40.

Can anyone confirm which is correct?

Judy Rouse
S/V Security
SM2 #387








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Motor on fuler for the Main Sail

Linda DeSalvo <liebling207@...>
 

The motor on furler on the main sail is making a lot of noise. Is there anyone out there that has had this problem and what did you do about it.
Thanks James DeSalvo Liebling207

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SM stability curve

Jens Henriksen <jens_henriksen@...>
 

We are looking into buying a Super Maramu, and I would like to see
the stability curve, or GZ curve, or at least know the angle of
vanishing stability.

The GZ curve describes the resistance to capsize and heel, and from
that curve you can read the ultimate stability, the "angle of
vanishing stability" or the angle to which the boat can heel and
still right itself.

I believe the GZ curve should be part of the CE approval procees, so
it should be publicly available somewhere, but I have not been able
to find it.

So, if anyone has this curve, or the angle, pls let me know.

regards Jens
--
***************

Jens Henriksen


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Water Pressure Problem

afpellegrini@...
 

I disconnected the cold water at each faucet and turned the pump on and this
cleared the problem although I did not see anything apparent released.
At any rate, the pressure is back to normal.
Thanks for the support and ideas.
Regards,
Tony Pellegrini
Voyageur #373


Re: Water Maker question

asm283 <no_reply@...>
 

Thank You gary

This is very helpfull.

Vito

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, amelliahona <no_reply@...>
wrote:

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, asm283 <no_reply@> wrote:
Hi Vito:
As far as I can determine there is only one manufacturer of RO
(Reverse Osmosis)
membranes in the world. That manufacturer is FilmTec. FilmTec was
a rather
small company that manufactured membranes by hand until Dow Corning
bought
them a few years ago and developed robotic manufacturing
processes. This
development resulted in improved membranes that give higher
production
than the original hand laid up membranes. The other great benefit
was a drop
in price. The membranes are less than 50 percent of their original
cost.

The membranes on my Amel SM 2000 Hull # 335 (220 VAC 50 Hertz
Dessalator,
150 l/hr water maker) are FilmTec SW30-2540 (that is SW = Sea
Water, and the
2540 = 2.5 inch by 40 inch membranes. I suspect that yours are the
same. I
purchased mine from a company Air, Water, Ice. Inc., Phone in USA
is 776-461-0256.
Walter is the owner and is very knowledgeable. The Film Tec web
site shows that
the SW30-2540 will produce 166 liters/hr for two membranes at
optimal temp.
The rate is higher than the original design for the Dessalator
system because of the
higher quality membranes (29 square feet surface area) that is due
to robotic
glue lines on the membranes.

As I searched the Dow Corning Film Tech technical literature I
wasn't able to find
any evidence that the salt rejection rate of the membrane is
affected by temperature.
The reading from the TDS meter may change due to temperature though
as you are
literally measuring electrical conductivity of the water and this
is affected by temp.
The salt rejection rate is dependent on pressure and if the
membrane isn't operated
at optimal pressure the TDS (total dissolved solids) will be
higher.

You didn't mention if the water you tested was the first out of the
system after start
up or if you waited at least 5 minutes before testing. See my
previous post related to
TDS Creep that occurs upon system shut down. It takes a few
minutes for the TDS
Creep to go away after system start up.

In answer to your questions:
1. Possibly. This could also be due to worn 0-rings on the end
caps and membrane
nipples (see photo section under watermaker). Product rate may
actually increase
as the membranes fail (that was the case with mine).

2. Cleaning is recommended and the procedure is described on the
Dow Corning
Filmtec web site under literature. This is more likely to cure a
falling production
rate than to cure a high TDS. (1000 TDS isn't really that bad.
City water is
commonly 800 - 900 ppm. My system with brand new membranes produces
water at 485 microSiemens/cm = 500 ppm TDS at 160 l/hr).

3. I had great service from the supplier I mentioned above. If
they are shipping
over seas request them to double package them. The shipping
container
they sent mine in was somewhat damaged just shipping across the
USA. No
damage to the membranes but it would have been damaged if they had
much more handling.

4. See my response above. I also have a post on this site about
the
process of replacing the membranes. About a 4 hour job but requires
some means of grasping the tubes and end caps, (see the photo
section).

Hope this helps. Feel free to contact me if you have further
questions.

Finally, install a independent continuous EC or TDS monitor as the
Dessalitor Salinity Sensor connects to pins on the control board
that
have no electrical traces to any control circuity. It is my opinion
that the sensor is a sham installation that was never functional.
Either that or there was gross manufacturing defects in the system.
Don't depend on the Dessalator system to alert you to unsafe water.

Regards, Gary Silver s/v Liahona

Hello from Fiji

Well of course problems will crop up in the most remote places. I
recently bought a water saltinity tester. The water coming from
the
watermaker is testing at 1200 PPM. The water from the tap is
testing
at 1000 or under ppm and when I test the water from a
refrigerated
bottle it tests at around 600 to 700 ppm. My conclusion is that
temperature has a lot to do with test results. Anyway all these
results are above normal. Now my watermaker could have been
producing
this quality of water all along I just had no way of testing.

My questions are.

1- Does the higher readings mean that the membranes are going
bad.
Product amount is normal.

2- Does cleaning the membranes with a solution help.

3- Can someone recomend a supplier for the membraned in the US or
south pacific.

4- Does anyone know what the model # of the membrane is. I have
the
150 LPH 220 model.

PS I tested the saltinity of red wine and it 1050 PPM. So maybe I
am
making too much out of this.

Any help or advise would be gladly appreciated.

Thank you

Vito Ciaravino

Wanderer
asm 283


Re: Water Maker question

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, asm283 <no_reply@...> wrote:
Hi Vito:
As far as I can determine there is only one manufacturer of RO (Reverse Osmosis)
membranes in the world. That manufacturer is FilmTec. FilmTec was a rather
small company that manufactured membranes by hand until Dow Corning bought
them a few years ago and developed robotic manufacturing processes. This
development resulted in improved membranes that give higher production
than the original hand laid up membranes. The other great benefit was a drop
in price. The membranes are less than 50 percent of their original cost.

The membranes on my Amel SM 2000 Hull # 335 (220 VAC 50 Hertz Dessalator,
150 l/hr water maker) are FilmTec SW30-2540 (that is SW = Sea Water, and the
2540 = 2.5 inch by 40 inch membranes. I suspect that yours are the same. I
purchased mine from a company Air, Water, Ice. Inc., Phone in USA is 776-461-0256.
Walter is the owner and is very knowledgeable. The Film Tec web site shows that
the SW30-2540 will produce 166 liters/hr for two membranes at optimal temp.
The rate is higher than the original design for the Dessalator system because of the
higher quality membranes (29 square feet surface area) that is due to robotic
glue lines on the membranes.

As I searched the Dow Corning Film Tech technical literature I wasn't able to find
any evidence that the salt rejection rate of the membrane is affected by temperature.
The reading from the TDS meter may change due to temperature though as you are
literally measuring electrical conductivity of the water and this is affected by temp.
The salt rejection rate is dependent on pressure and if the membrane isn't operated
at optimal pressure the TDS (total dissolved solids) will be higher.

You didn't mention if the water you tested was the first out of the system after start
up or if you waited at least 5 minutes before testing. See my previous post related to
TDS Creep that occurs upon system shut down. It takes a few minutes for the TDS
Creep to go away after system start up.

In answer to your questions:
1. Possibly. This could also be due to worn 0-rings on the end caps and membrane
nipples (see photo section under watermaker). Product rate may actually increase
as the membranes fail (that was the case with mine).

2. Cleaning is recommended and the procedure is described on the Dow Corning
Filmtec web site under literature. This is more likely to cure a falling production
rate than to cure a high TDS. (1000 TDS isn't really that bad. City water is
commonly 800 - 900 ppm. My system with brand new membranes produces
water at 485 microSiemens/cm = 500 ppm TDS at 160 l/hr).

3. I had great service from the supplier I mentioned above. If they are shipping
over seas request them to double package them. The shipping container
they sent mine in was somewhat damaged just shipping across the USA. No
damage to the membranes but it would have been damaged if they had
much more handling.

4. See my response above. I also have a post on this site about the
process of replacing the membranes. About a 4 hour job but requires
some means of grasping the tubes and end caps, (see the photo section).

Hope this helps. Feel free to contact me if you have further questions.

Finally, install a independent continuous EC or TDS monitor as the
Dessalitor Salinity Sensor connects to pins on the control board that
have no electrical traces to any control circuity. It is my opinion
that the sensor is a sham installation that was never functional.
Either that or there was gross manufacturing defects in the system.
Don't depend on the Dessalator system to alert you to unsafe water.

Regards, Gary Silver s/v Liahona

Hello from Fiji

Well of course problems will crop up in the most remote places. I
recently bought a water saltinity tester. The water coming from the
watermaker is testing at 1200 PPM. The water from the tap is testing
at 1000 or under ppm and when I test the water from a refrigerated
bottle it tests at around 600 to 700 ppm. My conclusion is that
temperature has a lot to do with test results. Anyway all these
results are above normal. Now my watermaker could have been producing
this quality of water all along I just had no way of testing.

My questions are.

1- Does the higher readings mean that the membranes are going bad.
Product amount is normal.

2- Does cleaning the membranes with a solution help.

3- Can someone recomend a supplier for the membraned in the US or
south pacific.

4- Does anyone know what the model # of the membrane is. I have the
150 LPH 220 model.

PS I tested the saltinity of red wine and it 1050 PPM. So maybe I am
making too much out of this.

Any help or advise would be gladly appreciated.

Thank you

Vito Ciaravino

Wanderer
asm 283


Water Maker question

ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 

Hi Vito,
How many hours have you done on your watermaker and is it the 60 or 150l p h version?
We test ours just by drinking it and after 1300 hours its fine. We lay up now for about 6 months of the year. We have pickled twice, without any problems. Last week approaching Uruguay from Brazil we were getting the full 60 litre per hour output in 16C water temp, though this performace may have something to do with reduced salinity of the sea as we were about 300kms from the mouth of the Rio Plata and already you could see sediment in the water. Cheers, Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302, Uruguay


BOWTHRUSTER ADJUSTMENT

L. CAMERON <solarconstruction@...>
 

FROM: "LADY DIVINA" SM317
I FOUND THAT AN ADJUSTMENT TO THE BOWTHRUSTER ON SM317 SOLVED THE SEAWATER INTRUSION PROBLEM WHILE AT SEA. I LOWERED THE BOLT(w/PIN HOLE) ON TOP OF THE MOTOR UNIT BY LOOSENING THE NUT AND SCREWING THE BOLT ASSMB. DOWN INTO THE MOTOR APPROX 1/4". THIS EFFECTIVELY RAISED THE UNIT AND COMPRESSED THE DOUGHNUT WASHERS, STOPPING THE LEAK FROM SEA SWELLS. IT IS ALITTLE MORE WORK TO INSERT THE PIN. I WILL DO A COMPLETE INSPECTION WHEN I HAULOUT NEXT, BUT THIS KEEPS ME GOING. THANKS FOR EVERYONES' ADVICE ON THIS COMMON PROBLEM.
LADY DIVINA SM317 >> ST. MARTIN

amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com wrote:

There is 1 message in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. U-drive oil
From: "jrjrjrouse2000" sailingjudy@gmail.com

________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message 1
From: "jrjrjrouse2000" sailingjudy@gmail.com
Date: Tue May 9, 2006 3:33pm(PDT)
Subject: U-drive oil

We pulled our Autoprop for service, thus draining the oil for the U-
drive. Looking for verification of weight of oil for replacement.
Notes we have from previous postings on this website state 15W40, but
the sticker in the engine room on the place where the oil should be
added states 20W40.

Can anyone confirm which is correct?

Judy Rouse
S/V Security
SM2 #387






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________



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Water Maker question

asm283 <no_reply@...>
 

Hello from Fiji

Well of course problems will crop up in the most remote places. I
recently bought a water saltinity tester. The water coming from the
watermaker is testing at 1200 PPM. The water from the tap is testing
at 1000 or under ppm and when I test the water from a refrigerated
bottle it tests at around 600 to 700 ppm. My conclusion is that
temperature has a lot to do with test results. Anyway all these
results are above normal. Now my watermaker could have been producing
this quality of water all along I just had no way of testing.

My questions are.

1- Does the higher readings mean that the membranes are going bad.
Product amount is normal.

2- Does cleaning the membranes with a solution help.

3- Can someone recomend a supplier for the membraned in the US or
south pacific.

4- Does anyone know what the model # of the membrane is. I have the
150 LPH 220 model.

PS I tested the saltinity of red wine and it 1050 PPM. So maybe I am
making too much out of this.

Any help or advise would be gladly appreciated.

Thank you

Vito Ciaravino

Wanderer
asm 283


Re: Water Pressure Problem

minaxi53 <no_reply@...>
 

I had a similar baffling experience last year with the same faucet.
After doing all the usual stuff I found it was actually a leak from
the supply pipe. Behind the head under the shelf access panel you
will with much twisting of arms get to a copper supply pipe that is
connected to a rubber hose. This was the culprit for me, it had
worked loose with vibration and half the water was spurting into the
space below the head and into the bilge under the floor opposite
closet. I wondered for weeks where that water was coming from!!!
Good luck
Bob
Minaxi SM6
-
-- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "pellegrini1942"
<afpellegrini@...> wrote:

I have an SM 2000 and am experiencing problems with cold water
pressure.
The cockpit shower is fine, but the forward head faucet has almost
no
pressure. The mix of hot and cold is OK, but not as strong as
usual.
The water pump is working and is at 20 psi when off and goes to 26
psi
when it turns on.
Any ideas on the problem will be appreciated.
Regards,
Tony Pellegrini
SM2000 #373
Port Yalikavak, Bodrum, Turkey


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Water Pressure Problem

peter pappas <pjppappas@...>
 

try removing the nozzel head and cleaning the screen. "callisto" 369

pellegrini1942 <afpellegrini@aol.com> wrote: I have an SM 2000 and am experiencing problems with cold water pressure.
The cockpit shower is fine, but the forward head faucet has almost no
pressure. The mix of hot and cold is OK, but not as strong as usual.
The water pump is working and is at 20 psi when off and goes to 26 psi
when it turns on.
Any ideas on the problem will be appreciated.
Regards,
Tony Pellegrini
SM2000 #373
Port Yalikavak, Bodrum, Turkey





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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Future Amel 54 owner

G D <maramu@...>
 

Hi ROger
I'm using on my SM the Bauer Junior II to my entire satisfaction. My advice is dont get away from serious brand such as this one. It is may be more expensive than the rest but it is worth it. Dont forget that getting spare parts if a breakdown occures when u are lost in the middle of nowhere may become a serious issue.
To make it short, no compromise for this kind of equipement. I'm using the monophase type one. The oceanus looks very good as well. My only coment is that the faster you fill up the tank the more heat u generate and once it has cooled down you will realize that your initial 220 Bars may become much less than that. So it may not give in real as many advantage than on the paper.
I bought mine direct from Bauer France.
http://www.bauer-compresseurs.com/
They are very helpfull reliable and speak english. If I'm not mistaken they gave me a discount in the range of 15% based on the tarif price. Anyway it is worth trying.
Wishing you all the best with your new boat but be patient..........
Erick MEJEAN
----Original Message Follows----
From: "Roger Frederiks" <rofred@dsl.pipex.com>
Reply-To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Future Amel 54 owner
Date: Mon, 15 May 2006 13:51:35 -0000

Hello, Amel owners/adventurers,

Just to introduce myself to the group, having ordered a new 54 some 10
days ago. She won't be delivered till September 2008! But, judging
from the wonderful day of sailing I had on her recently as well as all
the very positive feedback on Amel yachts in general, it will be well
worth waiting for.
My plans are to live aboard and to travel to far flung places, away
from the maddening crowds, and also to use her for scuba diving trips
to remote tropical locations with friends.
I have done a lot of online research, in particular going through most
of the very useful info on this site and by reading most of Patrick
Naegels' excellent AmelCaramel webpages. However, I still have quite a
few questions, some of which have already been dealt with by the Amel
sales staff.
For instance, I'm aware that some Super Maramu owners are sailing with
diving compressors onboard. I've been told that Amel can install a
Poseidon Junior II in the port cockpit locker. Are there any owners
here with such an installation? And if so, is it with the (single
phase) electric drive? FYI, I have been looking at the bigger cousin
of the Bauer Junior, the Oceanus, which has a 40% higher filling
capacity for the same dimensions and a gain of only 6 kg in weight. I
have ordered the Comfort Pack as 1 of the options for my 54, so there
should not be a problem charging batteries, running the 160 ltr/hr
Dessalator as well as charging batteries, and filling diving tanks,
all at the same time.

I would greatly appreciate any feedback from anyone on this. Needless
to say, I have other questions on various boat options, set ups and
general tricks of the trade, but those will come in due course.

Last but not least, if there are any Amel owners out there who might
require someone to help with watchkeeping during a long passage, I
would be delighted to assist. Naturally, I will arrange for my own
travel to and from the boat and I'm happy to contribute towards any
subsistence costs.

Many thanks and fair winds.

Roger