UPDATE on O-Ring Sizes for Water Maker
18 June 2006
I located my receipt for the O-rings I purchased for the watermaker and they are as follows
9.0 by 1.5 mm N70
19.0 by 2.5 mm N70
53.0 X 3.5 mm N70
N70 = Nitrile (Buna) 0-rings.
Cost for 10 of each was $6.30 USD
Re: Water Maker Green Light
18 June 2006toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Judy: Thanks for your response. Any chance you could take a digital photo of your
control circuit board (located in the electrical box on the back side of the control panel,
accessed from the port cockpit lazarette) and emailing it to me? Something is clearly
different about your watermaker than from mine.
Have you tried immersing your salinity sensor in sea water while the system is running to
see if it will divert the product water?
Please describe for us the amount of sodium metabisulfite you have used in your pickling
solution (e.g. how many tablespoons of powder in how much water), the duration of the
picklings (e.g. weeks or months at a time), and where the boat is located so we can know
the average temperature.
--- In firstname.lastname@example.org, "jrjrjrouse2000" <sailingjudy@...> wrote:
Re: Water Maker Green Light
Tested our watermaker twice today to time it. Green light comes on
at 1 minute 40 seconds.
We have verified that it does produce 160 lph. We have 108 hours on
the watermaker. It has been pickled many times.
--- In email@example.com, amelliahona <no_reply@...>
when the diverter solenoid valve switches from sending the productwater
overboard to sending the water to your tank. This occurs at 55seconds
after system start (per the on board oscillator timer and totallyunrelated
to anything else). IF ANY AMEL OWNER HAS A SYSTEM THAT DOESN'T<snip>
Water Maker Green Light
18 June 2006
The green light on the water maker Does do something. It illuminates
when the diverter solenoid valve switches from sending the product water
overboard to sending the water to your tank. This occurs at 55 seconds
after system start (per the on board oscillator timer and totally unrelated
to anything else). IF ANY AMEL OWNER HAS A SYSTEM THAT DOESN'T
CHANGE TO GREEN AT EXACTLY THE 55 SECOND MARK (+/- a second o
two) PLEASE LET ME KNOW SO THAT WE CAN DETERMINE HOW IT IS
CONNECTED THAT ALLOWS IT TOWORK.
So if the green "Good Quality" LED light illuminates you can rest assured
the water (either salty or fresh) is going to your tank. The green light and
diverter solenoid valve are controlled by the exact same logic circuits and
neither circuit is connected to the salinity sensor circuit (if you can call it
that, since the salinity sensor isn't connected at all and therefore really
isn't a circuit). I have asked myself, "Why have all this circuitry and the
expense of the solenoid valve and plumbing if it isn't going to do anything?"
This is what I don't understand.
I spent an hour on the phone with Rod Boreham, the UK rep for Dessalator
last week. He doesn't know who made the decision to hook the system
up with the salinity sensor out of the circuit. He notes that Dessalator
provides water makers to Beneteau and that they all seem to function as
advertised. If the decision on the Amel model was made on the premise
that it would improve reliability then the ultimate reliability would have
been achieved by eliminating the logic circuits, relay, LED, diverter
solenoid and its associated plumbing and installing a small tap so that
the water could be more easily tasted. To have all that electronic
overhead and then not connect the salinity sensor seems to me to actually
increase the risk that the system will fail. A couple of thoughts have
crossed my mind as to what has happened: 1) could it be that the board
was designed and produced and then found to not work as expected due
to the fact that TDS creep takes more than one minute to come down to
normal levels. Dessalator already had the control panels with green lights
and decided to market the system as if it worked that way, 2) or there is
some way that the system can actually be made to function as advertised
and I am not smart enough to figure how to do that, and the salinity sensor
wasn't hooked up due to a production error? (I have run various scenarios
in my mind hooking the salinity sensor to one of three un-used inputs but
still can't find a method that would allow the sensor to work as described
at the time of purchase).
If Amel requested this installation from Dessalator then Dessalator
probably won't admit it for fear of offending Amel. If Dessalator did
this without telling Amel then Dessalator will probably plead ignorance
to avoid looking bad. At any rate, until proven otherwise I am choosing
to believe that this sham installation was made by Dessalator and that
Amel believed them, just as we all did. After all, why would we not believe
them? Until now!
Regards, Gary Silver
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Water Maker --a question to Joel
Dear Joel, For a man who has a wealth of experience and valuable information on everything to do with Amel boats, to say nothing of an abundance of opinions, your keyboard has been( unusually !)silent in the great debate concerning the watermaker and whether its little green light serves any useful purpose or not.I am sure you will have read that it now seems that the green light and the water sensor do not seem to serve the purpose which many of us had understood them to serve.toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
It is only fair to say that, despite this ,I calculate that we have made about 70,000 litres in the past 6 years without mishap,( we have the 60 lph model) but nonetheless it would be interesting to hear your take on the matter.
I will spare you the question as to whether Amel ever knew if the water sensor was not connected to anything but I would love to know whether you think we should continue to take any notice of the little green light and, if not ,what we should do to ensure that the product is drinkable.( For my part I do taste the stuff regularly directly from the little tap on the watermaker panel and I have now bought a portable TDS meter)
Fair winds, Ian and Judy Jenkins, Pen Azen, SM 302, Uruguay
From: amelliahona <firstname.lastname@example.org>
Water Maker Membrane O-Ring Dimensions
18 June 2006
The O-rings for the Dessalator 160 lph water maker membranes are
End Cap O-rings (8 required) 3.5 mm - 56.6 mm ID, 61 mm OD
Product water bore in end cap (4 ? required) 2.65 mm - 18.5 mm ID
, 23.65 mm OD
Interconnect bobbin and high pressure hose connecting fittings
(8 required) 1.5 mm - 9 mm ID, 12 mm OD
O-rings are nitrile rubber (common type O-rings)
Re: watermaker service
Hi Eric:toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Sorry to hear that you water maker is making salt water. Yes, my water
make is the 160 lph. Originally it was marketed as a 120 lph water
maker (this is a function of the membranes and the newer membranes
are computer manufactured and the glue lines when made by computer
are better than the original hand glued membranes and thus the
production is now up to 160 lph). Make sure that you let your water
maker run for 4 to 5 minutes under pressure (i.e. producing wate)
before making any judgements about the quality of the water. As per
my previous posts, due to TDS creep, the water produced during those
first few minutes will always read somehwere over 9,000 ppm or very
high EC. Also make sure your Omega EC meter is calibrated. They
sell a calibration solution for doing that. I suspect that it comes
calibrated from the factory as mine didn't require any adjusting but
periodic recalibration agains a standard solution is an important
quality control. If you water is tasting salty though there is little
doubt that your membranes have failed.
Evidently water makers love to be run. Disuse is one of their
primary downfalls. I try to use mine every day for a couple of house
when I am on the boat. If you determine that membranes are then you
can purchase new membranes from many sources. I got mine from
Air, Water, Ince, Inc. phone 772-461-0256. They are FilmTec
SW30-2540 membranes. You need two. I paid $177.00 USD each as
of Jan 2006. Request that they double package them for shipping
especially if they are shipping internationally. This was a great
company to do business with but their packaging for shipping was
a bit skimpy and the package had broken open somewhat just going
from Ft. Lauderdale to Utah.
As to servicing the membranes: The water maker is modular, the
pumps are seperate from the membranes and the control panel is
seperate from everything else. To service the membranes you DO
NOT NEED TO REMOVE THE CONTROL PANEL. Removing the control
panel is a whole other story.
To service the membranes you will need to remove the membranes
and their mounting bracket from their mounted position in the engine
room. If your boat is the same as mine, the membranes are mounted
to the ceiling of the engine room. To remove them, first flush the
system with fresh water so that when water drips it won't be salt water
getting on things in the engine room. Next drape some plastic
sheeting over items below the membranes. Next remove the ventilation
tubes as depicted in the WaterMaker Service Photo section to make
acessing the bolts securing the mounting bracket easier. Next remove
the two high pressure hoses at the membrane end cap fittings.
Make sure to hold the fittings with a wrench to prevent torquing
the plastic end caps as you unscrew the B nut of the high pressure
hoses. Next loosen the 4 nuts holding the membrane mounting
bracket to the ceiling. Be ready to support the membrane assembly
to prevent it from falling. It weighs about 20 lbs. Once you have
the membrane assembly out of the engine room you loosen the
nuts holding the tie rods that hold the mounting brackets on to the
membranes. Be careful to control the Kevlar tubes because at the
end opposite the end caps with the fittings for the high pressure
hoses is the inter-connect bobbin. Gently seperate the two Kevlar
tubes and make sure the bobbin doesn't fall out and go down the
cockpit drain. The bobbin is held in place only by its o-rings. Now
comes the tough part. Getting the end caps off the Kevlar tubes.
Again, see the photo section of the WaterMaker Service. You will
need two strap wrenches (Sears) or oil fillter wrences (small size)
and some muscle. Wrap the end cap and Kevlar tube with
anti-skid material or similar (both to protect them from damage
and to provide the necessary grip) and then work the end caps off.
Pay attention to the orientation of the fittings etc. The end caps
are held in place only by their O-rings but it is a tight interferrence
fit and this takes some real effort. Again, paying attention to the
membrane orientation remove the old membranes. Flush
everyting with fresh water (non-chlorinated) and using a plastic
pick remove the O-rings from their grooves and inspect them,
clean up the grooves, lubricate the O-rings (now is a good time
to replace them with new, I will get those dimensions for you)
with a small quantitiy of silicone lube and reassemble the system
by sliding the new membranes into place (again a tight fit). The
membranes have a Chevron seal on one end and must be
inserted in a direction that allows the base (the bottom of
the "V") of the Chevron seal to enter the tube before the free
edge of the "V". Lubricate this seal with some silicone lube as
well. This will be obvious as you place the membrane in the
tube otherwise you won't be able to get the seal to enter the
tube. reassembling the end caps (a tight fit), inserting the
interconnect bobbin, and with six hands get everything back
in the mounting brackets properly oriented with the tie rods
holding everything together. Follow the directions that come
with your membranes regarding initial use. Remount the
whole assembly, connect the high pressure hoses, and follow
the directions that come with the membranes regarding initial
use. The membranes come packaged wet in a pickling
solution so they do need to be flushed with sea water for 20
minutes and the first 20 to 30 minutes of product water
needs to be discarded. I have installed a valve in the product
water line just before it goes into the copper pipe that goes
to the tanks so that I can both test and divert this water.
Regards, Gary Silver
my crew said the water tasted funky on the trip home from st martin .
i just hooked up the omega salinity tester and the water pinned the
instrument. I am going to drain the tank and go out and fil it with
filtered dock water . i will take the boat out into the sea and get
some water directly from the watermaker , i think this is futile but
i will give it a try. I believe my membranes are SHOT with just 66
hours on them. I believe the problem is that i pickled the unit
twice a year and used it only on passages. i think the pickle killed
I have a few questions. do you have the 160 lph watermaker?
what was the company that you got your membranes from?
is it necessary to remove the entire membrane asembly from the
engine room or can i just remove the hoses and the front mounting
plate to remove the watermaker?
kimberlite sm #376
Watermaker, TDS meter
John and Anne on Bali Hai <hollamby@...>
Yes my meter is made in Korea for HM Digital in the States.I gave the
web site addresses in my posting of 8 June omitting the www. bit as
yahoo seems to censor web addresses. Mine sometimes gives the ERR
message but only briefly, I think at start up when the sea water
exceeds 10,000 ppm.
I did not fit the "in" sensor but I now wish I had put it in the "out"
line as well merely to use it as a check. I assume that you followed
the instructions vis a vis lining up the dot correctly on the sensor.
Best wishes, John, SM 319
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] watermaker,TDS meter
Ian:toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Have you tried orienting the sensor horizontally or inverted? I found that my
sensor didn't give consistent readings when I had it mounted vertically. I think
that perhaps the probes weren't long enough and there was an air bubble
trapped when it was upright. See the photo of my installation in the photo
section and you will see that my sensor is now mounted horizontally and in
that orientation any air in the system is washed past the probes yet the sensor
probes remain imersed in product water. Just a thought.
--- In email@example.com, "Ian Shepherd" <ocean53@...> wrote:
Re: ais "RADAR"
Eventhough the word is in "quotation Mark", please do not use "Radar"
On your radar screen, what you see is what you get WHERE YOU ARE AND
NOW (assuming everything is working properly). With AIS, what you get
is what the other ships ARE TELLING YOU..... not only can it be
incorrect but more imPortantly it is RARELY timely.
On a recent crossing from Turkey to Tunisia, I followed on my AIS
screen a vessel on a somewhat similar route and found that I could not
have relied on AIS for collision avoidance.
Re: Furuno 1503 - Enable lower sideband
--- In firstname.lastname@example.org, "jrjrjrouse2000"
On the 1562, it is 1562. So you can try 1503.
Remove from Group List
Mike Mattinson <hallelujah_mk@...>
We have just sold our lovely Amel Sharki Hallelujah. We have enjoyed reading about various specific challenges. We will mill our Amel and have not found any better yacht.
Please remove us from your group e-mail list.
Kim & Mike
Watermaker TDS and battery chargers
John and Anne on Bali Hai <hollamby@...>
Hi Ian and Judy,
Bluemarin did not drink the product and relied on bottled water.
They also relied on the salinity monitor which did not work as has
now been clearly revealed. The result was that they did not notice
that sea water was polluting their tank and it corroded/destroyed
their washing machine. The suggestion that the monitor is not
connected may well be because the machine is an Amel version.
I had trouble with my battery chargers, one of which failed and I
had to buy a new one as I was in Turkey and could not wait. This was
still not perfect but I sent the broken one back to the makers for
repair asking them to return it to their standard version. Since
then it has worked much better and with both 50 and 30 amp chargers
on the charge rate starts off at 70 plus amps when the batteries
have been taken down to about 75% charge.
Gary...Many thanks for all your hard work, descriptions and pics.
Much appreciated although I am amazed that someone who descibes
himself as a jeweller can give good advice ranging from using a
sledge hammer on the boom outhaul to reverse engineering a complex
electronic circuit board !
Best wishes, Anne and John SM 319
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Water Maker Salinity Sensor is Not Hooked up to Anything
Ian Shepherd <ocean53@...>
Hi Gary,toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Your latest findings make further disturbing reading. Crusader went back in
the water a few days ago, and as promised, I have repeated the tests that
you did on your Dessalator water maker. I have a 160 l/h unit which is now 3
I removed the salinity tester from the output stage and plugged the hole
with a cork. I started the water maker, got the green 'good quality' light,
then immersed the salinity probe in a cup of seawater. NOTHING HAPPENED. The
water maker continued to fill my freshwater tank.
I then shut the unit down and restarted it with the probe still immersed in
seawater. THE GREEN LIGHT CAME ON AFTER ABOUT 55 SECONDS AND WATER WAS
DIVERTED INTO MY TANK.
So you are absolutely right. The safety feature on our water makers is a
complete sham. I find it quite amazing that any reputable manufacturer could
sell/install what is a life saving piece of equipment for those of us on
long voyages with such a potentially dangerous fault. Every other
manufacturer of desalination equipment that I have inspected has a similar
shutdown feature, that I assume, works? Why does it not on a Dessalator
Amel say in their manual that there is bad water protection, so why has it
been disabled? If Amel are aware that Pin11 is open circuit, then I consider
them to be highly irresponsible in leading their customers to believe that
the system that they chose, sold and installed does have a reliable
diversion system in the event of bad water being produced. This is
especially true on a yacht where there is only one fresh water tank. Pollute
that tank and you have nothing good left.
I shall write to M. Lemonnier and ask what solution Amel propose to assure
their customers that they have a safe water making system on board. I would
urge everyone else to do the same. The Dessalator system would, I think, not
comply with the Trades Description Act.
Thank you Gary for all your hard detective work. I am sure it is appreciated
by many of us.
Ian Shepherd SM 414 Crusader
Date: 06/11/06 05:35:27
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Water Maker Salinity Sensor is Not Hooked up to
I have spent more than 40 hours drawing complete schematics and logic
diagrams for the
Dessalator water maker Control Board on my Amel SM 2000 , Hull # 335. I have
that the salinity sensor is wired to the circuit board on pin 11 and pin 12
of plug # 2 (see
the photo section for a component labeled photo of this board).
I HAVE VERIFIED THAT PIN 11 OF THIS BOARD IS NOT CONNECTED TO ANYTHING. PIN
GOES TO GROUND BUT THE SALINITY SENSOR THUS CONNECTED IS AN INCOMPLETE
CIRCUIT AND IS NOT FUNCTIONAL. FURTHERMORE, AS CURRENTLY CONFIGURED I CAN
NOT DETERMINE ANY WAY TO MAKE THE SALINITY SENSOR SYSTEM FUNCTIONAL. I CAN
ONLY CONCLUDE THAT THE SALINITY SENSOR ON MY WATERMAKER IS A SHAM
I URGE EVERY AMEL OWNER TO INSPECT THEIR DESSALATOR WATERMAKER CIRCUIT
BOARD. IF YOUR CIRCUIT BOARD IS THE SAME ONE AS DEPICTED IN THE PHOTO
AND THE SALINITY SENSOR IS WIRED TO PLUG 2, PINS 11 AND 12 THEN YOU CAN BE
ASSURED THAT THE SALINITY SENSOR IS NOT FUNCTIONAL IN ANY WAY.
Another way to determine if your salinity sensor is functional is to see if
changes to "good quality" and green LED light at the 55 second to 65 second
mark. If it
does then the salinity sensor is NOT functional. The timing function of the
determines the start up sequence and does function for high pressure
down of the system. No other sensing inputs to the board are functional. It
takes about 3
to 4 minutes for the TDS creep to come down to good quality water after
system start up.
This brief period of bad water production is of no consequence when compared
major volume of water production that follows.
I urge all owners to install a continuous EC (electrical conductivity)
monitor with alarm
funciton on the product water line of their water maker. If you do this you
will soon find
that the high EC alarm will sound for the first 3 - 4 minutes after startup
I have installed a
mute switch in the alarm relay line so that I can monitor the start up
sequence with the the
alarm muted and when the EC drops to 450 microSiemens/cm (about 500 ppm TDS)
"arm" the alarm by throwing the switch to allow the alarm to sound the
second EC goes
over 500 mSiemens/cm.
Dessalator and the Dessalator UK rep have intimated that Amel made this type
installation. But since the wiring inside the electrical box was undoubtedly
Dessalator and not Amel, and Amel has represented all along that the
system was functional, I believe this sham installation was unknown to Amel.
integrity with which Amel has always conducted itself leads me to believe
that this fraud
was NOT perpetrated by Amel. I don't fault Rod Boreham, the UK
Dessalator, as he was just passing along what Dessalator was telling him.
You now know the truth about the salinity sensor on our Dessalator water
Your opposing opinions are welcome. I would like nothing more than to be
on this issue.
Regards, Gary Silver s/v Liahona (currently on the hard in Jolly Harbor
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] watermaker,TDS meter
Ian Shepherd <ocean53@...>
Hi John,toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Is your TDS meter made by HM Digital? Mine is, and no matter where I put it
in the blue output line, all I get is an 'Err' message when the water maker
is producing water. It does give a reading when the flow is stopped, i.e.
Just after shutdown, and it works fine in a cup of water. It seems not able
to cope with a decent flow rate. I have tried just after the membrane output
and just after the control panel with the same result. I have waited 5-10
minutes as per Gary's suggestion, but get the same result.
I would appreciate any advice. Like you, I have never used chemicals on my
membranes. Only the occasional back flush with self made water when not in
use for a while.
Ian Shepherd SM 414 Crusader
From: John and Anne on Bali Hai
Date: 06/08/06 09:17:08
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] watermaker,TDS meter
There seems to be no doubt that the dessalateur salinity detector is
non functioning.A cheap and easy solution is to fit a simple TDS meter
in the output line.Such a meter is sold by an American company
tdsmeter.com and also sold in the UK ro-man.com for £23.50.
It is very small and has two sensors. I did not use the "in" sensor
and put the "out" sensor in the blue output line which can be found
behind the wooden cover at the front ot the big cockpit locker. This
blue pipe is easily cut with a razor knife and the ends pushed in as
far as they will go into the sensor. The wires from the sensors are
connected to the meter with a plug which is quite hard to pull out.
Once removed the plug can be pushed through the small gap created by
removing the screws holding the panel in place in the galley. The
meter is held in place with velcro.
The actual meter is only 3x2x0.75 inches with a very small screen.It
is powered by two button cells and stays on for about 20-30 seconds
when the on button is pushed. It does not have an alarm. It is sold
either with fittings for a small or a larger tube which is needed for
my 160ltr ph watermaker.Make sure that the tubes are pushed fully in
and the do a freshwater flush of the membranes to make sure there are
no leaks before replacing the coverboard.
I used it yesterday for the first time and got an initial reading of
over 9,000 ppm which soon went down to about 360ppm which is better
than Maltese mains water.
Incidentally I have followed Olivier's advice and never sterilised or
pickled the membranes which are still delivering 160 ltr. ph. even
though the machine stands idle for about five months a year. We do
however always flush it with product water after use if it is going to
stand idle for more than a few days. We never take on shore water and
rely totally on this machine.
With the benefit of hind sight I should have put both sensors in the
product out line !
Best wishes to all, Anne and John, SM 319
Re: Water Maker
Mine is the 120 lph (now 160 lph with the new membranes) 220 VAC 50 hertz model. My
membranes had only 185 hours on them when they failed. As I previously mentioned I am
sure that their premature demise was related to prolonged periods of pickling with
pickling solution that was way too concentrated. This due to my ignorance about the bad
effects of pickling and poor instructions from Dessalator (i.e. no really useful owners
manual). As I noted I don't plan to ever pickle the system again. The boat is now on the
hard in Jolly Harbor Antiqua for the hurricane season and I have rigged a multiday timer
with a relay to fllush the system with fresh water for 1 minutes three times per week. The
original Amel pressure water pump flushes about 7 liters per minute through the system.
PS I had a one hour long discussion with Rod Boreham (UK rep for Dessalator) yesterday
about my findings related to the non-connected salinity sensor. He notes that his wiring
diagrams do not match the photo of the circuit board that I sent him but also that the
spare board he has in his parts supply matches my photo. I noted also that the wiring
installation diagram supplied by Amel for my system doesn't match the system installed in
my boat as well. He doesn't know for sure but wondered if perhaps the salinity sensor
hook up and/or the control board were custom made at Amel's request. I suspect we will
never know for sure why or at who's request the salinity sensors were installed but not
connected to anything, but at least we now know that it doesn' work and can take
Regards, Gary Amel SM 2000 Hull # 3335
--- In email@example.com, "Ian & Judy Jenkins" <ianjudyjenkins@...>
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Watermaker TDS and RIB
Dear John and Anne, Thanks for those tips. Judy, who is a great water drinker, has a prejudice against the water maker water even though I catch her out on a regular basis with blind tastings against whatever bottled water she has obliged me to lug back from some distant supermarket. As a result I have bought the portable TDS meter so that we can have further competitions on board between the Made water and the Bought water. I am sure the Made water will beat the Bought water on a regular basis but, after 35 years of marriage the innermost workings of Judy's mind are still a complete mystery to me so I am not holding my breath that I shall be able to change her preference.Still, we shall have fun doing all our comparisons. Watch this space! Ian.toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
From: "John and Anne on Bali Hai" <firstname.lastname@example.org>
Thks to every who sent me replies about problems with the thruster. I
did manage to repair it - it was slightly out of position and I
asjusted the control box ? a bit down so that the metal arrows had
good contact with the pins over and under the control box.
Charlie , I will report about Trapani later.
Rgds Ivar Mylde
SM 53 Silfrania
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: SuperMaramu vs Maramu vs Santorin.
Just to correct the information on the Maramu:
From the mid eighties this model was equipped with electrical furling genoa
and main as well as with a retractable bow thruster.
The difference between late Maramu’s and Santorin’s is therefore mainly the
Amel C-drive system, the winged ballast and some hull modifications – e.g.
it is somewhat lighter and will sail a bit faster in most situations.
[mailto:email@example.com] På vegne af abulerhum
Sendt: 13. juni 2006 02:48
Emne: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: SuperMaramu vs Maramu vs Santorin.
--- In amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, "uno.genesis" <uno.genesis@...> wrote:
I will sumarize quickly, so it will be very uncomplete.
Maramu and Santorin are of the same size (46 ft), Super maramu is 53ft.
There are many difference between Maramu and Santorin.
main differences are:
-3 manual rolling sails
-made until 89
-price range 100 / 150k Euro
-Amel type transmission (C)
-Genoa and main electric furling. Artimon manual
-from 89 to 97 (140 made)
-price range 200 / 250 k Euro
-Perkins 50HP same as maramu
-some sloop made. Not very popular.
-similar to Santorin but larger (53) and 1.5 time the space. (no sloop)
-U shaped galley
-washer/dryer + dishwasher
-from 89 to 98
-Perkins 68 to 80HP
-price range 280 / 350 k Euro
Super Maramu 2000
-improvement to SM.
-99 to 2005 (almost 400 made)
-Perkins 80 to 100HP
-price range 350 to +++ k Euro
Condition and options (many available) will make the price.
They are all great boats. I only know happy owners. Amel is a very serious
This is very uncomplete, but it should help for a start.
All depend what you are looking for, and how much you want to spend.
For info, I presently know an excellent Santorin for sale (French flag VAT
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]