Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Amel Santorin overview

Siviero Attilio <attilio.siviero@...>
 

I have an Amel Santorin #84 (1993) “Sisila", now in Rhodes Marina, Greece, and I steered to it, rather than SM, because we planned (my wife and myself) cruising mostly in the Med, even if Santorin ketch is well suited for the “pond” (Atlantic Ocean), and any other “pond”.

We bought her in Le Lavandou, France, French Riviera, in the winter of 2009, and we crossed all the Med, to Genova, then Corse, Sardinia, Tunisia, Sicily, up to Venice, now Aegean sea and Turkey's Turquoise Coast: few thousands of miles since 2009, only during summers.

A friend of mine, Craig Briggs came from Florida on Sangaris, his Santorin Ketch, with few modifications, mostly domestic (freezer, air conditioning, bigger fridge, genset, watermaker). I only put solar panels, davits, aerogen, one more battery for the engine, bimini. We do not need freezer, washing machine, dishwasher, genset and watermaker in the Med (solar panels and aerogen feed sufficient power).

The choice was mostly due to economic reasons, maintenance and mooring fees, and 46feet are sufficiently safe for any sea, not much less than 53feet of SM. The difference from SM is mostly geometric, further to domestic features, probably SM can face safely harder seas, maybe more than Santorin, but in the Med has more problems to fit in the Marinas, and in many small bays where to take shelter during storms, apart cost matters.

Also, to change sails and rigging, that I made, was less expensive.

So maybe a good compromise, same safety in sailing, less costs, even if sometimes during summer I would like air conditioning (anyhow I made big canvas covering almost the whole boat at anchor, and this is less expensive, does not need genset, as Bernard Moitessier said: what is missing does not need to be fixed).

I think I would buy her again

Cheers

Attilio & Maria Siviero 
Amel Santorin#84 "Sisila"


Il giorno 01/ott/2015, alle ore 17:53, Germain Jean-Pierre jgermain@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> ha scritto:

I’ve seen a sloop Santorin up close and my opinion is… don’t do it.  Too much a compromise on the Amel philosophy.


Welcome aboard


JEAN-PIERRE GERMAIN, 
SY Eleuthera, SM 007


On 1 Oct 2015, at 16:45, elmbrook@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Well 1st off - Hello.  I've recently joined the group to become knowledgeable about Amel Santorin sailboats and Amel boats in general.  I've searched the web and specifically this forum to find information on construction, design philosophy and on the suitability of Amel Santorin for blue water cruising.  What little I've found so far is promising but I'd be grateful if anyone could point me in the direction of posts or web site data that presents Amel Sailboats and specifically the Santorin 46 (sloop and ketch).


From what little I've learned so far this may be the boat that fits my wife's and my need for a blue water cruiser.


Regards,

Elm(er)



Jean-Pierre Germain,
SY Eleuthera, Amel Super Maramu 007
Marina di Ragusa, Pontoon M15,
97100 Ragusa, Sicily, Italy
+44 7551 211 511
jp.germain@...




Maramu #105 - Cerulean Needing Davit Advice

mr_hermanns
 

Fellow Owners,


I've decided to get a 8ft6in RIB for our trusty Cerulean and wanted to discuss the various options (from custom to premade + hybrid).


Would like to keep the cost to a minimum without sacraficing the durability and strength.


I know there are a lot of previous threads on this issue but some go all the way back to '02!


Any additions or updates to the most simple, cost effective solution are much appreciated.


Best,

Jer


SVCerulean.com


ALSO NOTE: I'm selling our GigHarbor sail dinghy, it's simply too difficult for my lady + dog to get in and out of. It's perfect for the aft deck if anyone is interested:

10' Gig Harbor Navigator Sailboat - Nesting - $3950 (Marina Del Rey)



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Amel Santorin overview

Ric Gottschalk <ric@...>
 

I have a 1990 Santorin. It is a go anywhere, do anything Amel like all Amels! It has all the amenities of any Amel, except dishwasher & washer/dryer. Frankly they are not needed. Big is good, but bigger costs more. I guarantee, I have fewer issues, lower costs, and Bali Hai still takes me anywhere in the world in style. I particularly like that my boat has 12volt system with the capability to connect to 24 volt power. That makes pumps & parts cheaper & easily available. 
Currently in Annapolis

Ric Gottschalk
Kitchen Magic Refacers, Inc
Office 410-923-5800
Fax 410-923-5802

On Oct 1, 2015, at 11:53 AM, Germain Jean-Pierre jgermain@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

I’ve seen a sloop Santorin up close and my opinion is… don’t do it.  Too much a compromise on the Amel philosophy.


Welcome aboard


JEAN-PIERRE GERMAIN, 
SY Eleuthera, SM 007


On 1 Oct 2015, at 16:45, elmbrook@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Well 1st off - Hello.  I've recently joined the group to become knowledgeable about Amel Santorin sailboats and Amel boats in general.  I've searched the web and specifically this forum to find information on construction, design philosophy and on the suitability of Amel Santorin for blue water cruising.  What little I've found so far is promising but I'd be grateful if anyone could point me in the direction of posts or web site data that presents Amel Sailboats and specifically the Santorin 46 (sloop and ketch).


From what little I've learned so far this may be the boat that fits my wife's and my need for a blue water cruiser.


Regards,

Elm(er)



Jean-Pierre Germain,
SY Eleuthera, Amel Super Maramu 007
Marina di Ragusa, Pontoon M15,
97100 Ragusa, Sicily, Italy
+44 7551 211 511
jp.germain@...


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Question regarding procedures for aligning engine on SM

Beaute Olivier
 

Hi Pat,

Good to hear you could do it.
I see two reasons for the C-drive to be lower by 6 mm:
-the big sleeve has collapsed a little bit when the whole weight of the C-drive was standing on it.
-the new mounts (although with same specs) are stiffer than the old ones and don't go down so much with the weight of the whole system.
Both reasons act together.

As a last setting, and in order to prevent unnecesary stress on the shaft/coupling, I would now just release the pair of bottom hose clamps on the big sleeve, see if it is moving and then tighten again.
During this short operation, you will see some water coming in but probably not more than when you're having a shower...

Tell me if the sleeve moves (mark the gel-coat before opening the clamps).

Olivier.

Envoyé de mon iPhone

Le 1 oct. 2015 à 14:59, "Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> a écrit :

 

Olivier,  I told you that I was going to change my motor mounts without first unbolting and raising the engine. Although first unbolting the engine and then the frame seems to be the standard procedure. I saw no reason both frame and engine could not be raised together , saving time and hassle unbolting the engine. You asked me to let you know how it went . I had no problems and it went very well. I put a 4x4 resting on the boat where the winches are, slightly aft of center of engine ,with a come along (cable puller) raised both and gravity shifted both aft a few inches , then moved the 4x4 slightly forward lowered both and gravity shifted frame forward , although I still needed to use a car scissor jack on aft bulkhead to frame cross member to push frame forward the last few mm. One question, the C drive was slightly lower about 1/4 inch than frame although I had preset mount to old ones. I had a little trouble getting holes to match up. Can the C drive drop a little when unbolted from the frame? I put blocking under it before unbolting , the blocking seemed to be under a lot of load later. In conclusion , I  see no reason not to do this job leaving frame/engine connected. I ran the boat from idle to 2800 rpm and detected no vibration, so I guess that means all is well?
 
 Thanks for your help,
 Pat
 SM Shenanigans #123
 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Tue, Sep 15, 2015 8:24 am
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Question regarding procedures for aligning engine on SM

 
Barry, I was wondering , if I removed the bolts securing the mounts to the stringers and unbolted the frame from the C drive, could I not then shift both aft and raise the engine and frame together . This would save disconnecting the engine from the frame.
Thanks Much
Pat SM #123
 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: seagasm@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Mon, Sep 14, 2015 6:58 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Question regarding procedures for aligning engine on SM

 
Sorry, No I did not take any pictures. It is a pretty well a simple process, disconnect motor, raise it as mentioned, dismantle the support above the C drive and remove it (the C drive sits on the keel and will not move), undo the nuts on the Vetus mounts that secure to the frame (do NOT alter the adjustment nut beneath the frame), either lift the frame over the Vetus mount to remove the mount or dismantle the four pieces of the frame and remove, remove the Vetus mount, measure the distance of the exposed thread then wind down the adjustment nut of the NEW Vetus mount to show the same measurement of exposed thread as the old one, install the the new Vetus mount. Do the same for the remaining three then reassemble everything in reverse.

Kind Regards
Barry & Robyn
Tradewinds III SM #171


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Amel Santorin overview

Germain Jean-Pierre <jgermain@...>
 

I’ve seen a sloop Santorin up close and my opinion is… don’t do it.  Too much a compromise on the Amel philosophy.

Welcome aboard


JEAN-PIERRE GERMAIN, 
SY Eleuthera, SM 007


On 1 Oct 2015, at 16:45, elmbrook@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Well 1st off - Hello.  I've recently joined the group to become knowledgeable about Amel Santorin sailboats and Amel boats in general.  I've searched the web and specifically this forum to find information on construction, design philosophy and on the suitability of Amel Santorin for blue water cruising.  What little I've found so far is promising but I'd be grateful if anyone could point me in the direction of posts or web site data that presents Amel Sailboats and specifically the Santorin 46 (sloop and ketch).


From what little I've learned so far this may be the boat that fits my wife's and my need for a blue water cruiser.


Regards,

Elm(er)



Jean-Pierre Germain,
SY Eleuthera, Amel Super Maramu 007
Marina di Ragusa, Pontoon M15,
97100 Ragusa, Sicily, Italy
+44 7551 211 511
jp.germain@...


New file uploaded to amelyachtowners

amelyachtowners@...
 

Hello,


This email message is a notification to let you know that
a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the amelyachtowners
group.


File : /B&G Wind Sensor Wiring and Troubleshooting.pdf
Uploaded by : svbebe <yahoogroups@svbebe.com>
Description :


You can access this file at the URL:
https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/amelyachtowners/files/B%26G%20Wind%20Sensor%20Wiring%20and%20Troubleshooting.pdf


To learn more about file sharing for your group, please visit:
https://help.yahoo.com/kb/index?page=content&y=PROD_GRPS&locale=en_US&id=SLN15398


Regards,


svbebe <yahoogroups@svbebe.com>


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: SM Mast Wiring, Instruments and NMEA

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

I believe #19 was wired to 24VDC when BeBe #387 was built because one of the functions of the FFD is battery voltage and I assume that is the reason for this connection.

Regarding your problem. Tinley Electronics in Britain also does B&G Hydra repair and usually has inventory of used older B&G parts. Email sarah"at"tinley.net www.tinleyelectronics.com www.bandgservice.co.uk Tel: +44 (0)1590 610071

Also, when you get that processor back you may have to go through the installation process described below:


Something triggered a system reset on our B&G instruments in 2008...Boat Speed and the Wind Speed analog instruments appeared reversed.  We were at anchor with about 10 knots of wind.  The needle on the Boat Speed was at a 9:30 position and the Wind Speed was registering zero.  I realized that a position of 9:30 on the Wind Speed would be about 10 knots.

 

I found that section 5.3.2 of the Hydra 2000 User Manual details how to “Configure the Analog Indicators.”  This procedure allows you to specify which values are sent to each analog instrument.  I went through the steps in the User’s Manual and configured the Wind and Boat Speed correctly.  If your Amel is like my Amel, the default settings will reverse Boat Speed and Wind Speed and you will have to “Configure the Analog Indicators.” 


I copied and saved this posting by Gary Silver almost 9 years ago regarding connecting to the NMEA out on the B&G FFD:


A couple of warnings are in order. 

1.  Radio frequency interference (RFI) evidently can cause
the NMEA interface to glitch so careful routing of
properly shielded and grounded wire is important. 

2. Use twisted pair shielded high quality wire, avoid running it
right next to the SSB or VHF antenna cables or other
high current 24 vdc power wires, and ground the shield
at only one end of the wire run (I grounded mine at
the Hydra 2000 NMEA display cable). 

First the connections at the Raytheon autopilot computer. You are going to be feeding the NMEA heading information to the B
& G so that the Hydra 2000 can calculate true wind.
You use the "NMEA output" from the Raytheon computer
(this is located in the cupboard above the sink,
between the 220 VAC and 24 VDC circuit breaker panels and
is mounted on the forward side of the cockpit
bulkhead on which the helm wheel is mounted). 

The cover is removed by depressing two tabs on either side of the
cover and sliding it downward. The wires should be
tinned, the shield trimmed off and covered with heat
shrink within about two inches of the terminal strip and
they are inserted by pushing down on the tab and
sliding the wire into the terminal hole. Just look at the
other wires to get the direction of the hole. 

Route the wire towards the port side, then via the access tubes
into the access area behind the analog B & G
instruments via the sliding ceiling access panel in the
kitchen. Use one of the un-used conduits to thread the
wire into the starboard quarter-berth area. 

Then by removing a small piece of trim in the bookshelf area above
the nav station hanging locker you can route the wire
into the nav station area. Leave enough slack to allow
the rack system to be removed easily. 

Attached is the info from the B & G technical support: DO NOT ATTEMPT
TO USE THE NMEA INPUT OUTPUT terminals on the Hydra
processor (i.e. the B & G computer) Instead the NMEA
connections must be made through a NMEA FFD on HYDRA
systems.  

B & G tech support states: The solution will be to
locate your NMEA FFD, and connect the wires from your
Raytheon as follows: 

Raytheon NMEA Output (+) Brown 
NMEA Output (-) Blue 
NMEA FFD NMEA Input (+) Violet 
NMEA Input (-) Black 

The wire shield is grounded by connecting to the other
grounds at the hydra processor. The above wires
are from the cable coming from the Hydra 2000
display. You will find that they are capped. Just pigtail
them together as indicated. 

Lastly, I will upload some B&G troubleshooting guides in a few minutes...look for the automated message.

Bill
BeBe 387

On Thu, Oct 1, 2015 at 2:20 PM, peacock@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Thanks to Joel and all for your help.

It sounds like it may not be too difficult. More background: I was trying to hook NMEA from B&G to my new chart plotter, and must have done something wrong. The circuit board on the processor is shot, and probably the digital display as well. Not sure about the sensors and gauges. Not sure how it happened, but a post-mortem revealed that even though the system is 12 V, there is also a 24 V wire coming into the processor on terminal #19. This is referred to as a "Battery Sensing" terminal, I would assume if voltage goes low, and if your system were rigged correctly, a B&G alarm would go off. Not even sure if it works for 24 V. I don't know if it came wired this way from LaRochelle, or if it was hooked up under the previous owner's watch. 
There is a B&G vintage instrument outfit in Fort Lauderdale that I have sent the processor and digital display to, but even if fixable, I'm still not sure about the sensors and gauges.
Thanks again.



Amel Santorin overview

elmbrook@...
 

Well 1st off - Hello.  I've recently joined the group to become knowledgeable about Amel Santorin sailboats and Amel boats in general.  I've searched the web and specifically this forum to find information on construction, design philosophy and on the suitability of Amel Santorin for blue water cruising.  What little I've found so far is promising but I'd be grateful if anyone could point me in the direction of posts or web site data that presents Amel Sailboats and specifically the Santorin 46 (sloop and ketch).


From what little I've learned so far this may be the boat that fits my wife's and my need for a blue water cruiser.


Regards,

Elm(er)


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Question regarding procedures for aligning engine on SM

Patrick McAneny
 

Olivier,  I told you that I was going to change my motor mounts without first unbolting and raising the engine. Although first unbolting the engine and then the frame seems to be the standard procedure. I saw no reason both frame and engine could not be raised together , saving time and hassle unbolting the engine. You asked me to let you know how it went . I had no problems and it went very well. I put a 4x4 resting on the boat where the winches are, slightly aft of center of engine ,with a come along (cable puller) raised both and gravity shifted both aft a few inches , then moved the 4x4 slightly forward lowered both and gravity shifted frame forward , although I still needed to use a car scissor jack on aft bulkhead to frame cross member to push frame forward the last few mm. One question, the C drive was slightly lower about 1/4 inch than frame although I had preset mount to old ones. I had a little trouble getting holes to match up. Can the C drive drop a little when unbolted from the frame? I put blocking under it before unbolting , the blocking seemed to be under a lot of load later. In conclusion , I  see no reason not to do this job leaving frame/engine connected. I ran the boat from idle to 2800 rpm and detected no vibration, so I guess that means all is well?
 
 Thanks for your help,
 Pat
 SM Shenanigans #123
 
 

-----Original Message-----
From: Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners]
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Tue, Sep 15, 2015 8:24 am
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Question regarding procedures for aligning engine on SM

 
Barry, I was wondering , if I removed the bolts securing the mounts to the stringers and unbolted the frame from the C drive, could I not then shift both aft and raise the engine and frame together . This would save disconnecting the engine from the frame.
Thanks Much
Pat SM #123
 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: seagasm@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Mon, Sep 14, 2015 6:58 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Question regarding procedures for aligning engine on SM

 
Sorry, No I did not take any pictures. It is a pretty well a simple process, disconnect motor, raise it as mentioned, dismantle the support above the C drive and remove it (the C drive sits on the keel and will not move), undo the nuts on the Vetus mounts that secure to the frame (do NOT alter the adjustment nut beneath the frame), either lift the frame over the Vetus mount to remove the mount or dismantle the four pieces of the frame and remove, remove the Vetus mount, measure the distance of the exposed thread then wind down the adjustment nut of the NEW Vetus mount to show the same measurement of exposed thread as the old one, install the the new Vetus mount. Do the same for the remaining three then reassemble everything in reverse.

Kind Regards
Barry & Robyn
Tradewinds III SM #171


Re: SM Mast Wiring

peacock@...
 

Thanks to Joel and all for your help.
It sounds like it may not be too difficult. More background: I was trying to hook NMEA from B&G to my new chart plotter, and must have done something wrong. The circuit board on the processor is shot, and probably the digital display as well. Not sure about the sensors and gauges. Not sure how it happened, but a post-mortem revealed that even though the system is 12 V, there is also a 24 V wire coming into the processor on terminal #19. This is referred to as a "Battery Sensing" terminal, I would assume if voltage goes low, and if your system were rigged correctly, a B&G alarm would go off. Not even sure if it works for 24 V. I don't know if it came wired this way from LaRochelle, or if it was hooked up under the previous owner's watch. 
There is a B&G vintage instrument outfit in Fort Lauderdale that I have sent the processor and digital display to, but even if fixable, I'm still not sure about the sensors and gauges.
Thanks again.


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Free watermaker

Patrick McAneny
 

Aras , I don't  understand any confusion, I have described it a few times as being 220V . Do you have a 220v generator on your boat ?
Pat SM #123
 
 

-----Original Message-----
From: n33077@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wed, Sep 30, 2015 11:19 am
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Free watermaker

 
Hi Aras here.  I'm a bit confused about the water maker.  IS it 220V or 120V?  Regardless, this would fit my Sharki; right?

I'm in Annapolis and would be willing to take it.  Just got back from Montauk NY yesterday.  Long 4 days of sailing.

Aras


Re: SM Mast Wiring

n33077@...
 

Sorry to hear about tour instruments. On my Sharki I had to run some wires for an antenna. Joel is right; it was easier than I thought. There is an inspection port at the bottom of the mast. The hardest part for me was running inside the boat. The chases never seem large enough no matter how many wires are in it. My chase lines even after 26 years were still good enough to use.
Aras


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] SM Mast Wiring

Ann-Sofie Svanberg <kanalmamman@...>
 

At Amel in Martinique they had a mizzen mast cut up so you where able to see its inside. The main looks the same, they told me. Maybe the pictures will help


Regards
Annsofie
S/Y Lady Annila, SM 232
Present in Licata, Sicilly, Italy


Skickat från min iPad

30 sep. 2015 kl. 23:42 skrev 'Joel Potter' jfpottercys@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>:

 

Oh, forgot to mention, once I helped an Amel owner passing through Lauderdale replace his B&G wiring on his 48’ Maramu that got vaporized by a direct lightning hit ( and a replacement of a whole host of other stuff too). It was a piece of cake. I believe there is even a ‘chase/pull’ line in the conduit to the masthead in case using the old wires as a snake fails. Good luck with the repair.

Joel

Joel F. Potter/Cruising Yacht Specialist LLC

THE EXPERIENCED AMEL GUY

954 462 5869 office

954 812 2485 cell

 

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Wednesday, September 30, 2015 5:03 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] SM Mast Wiring

 

 

I am unfortunately faced with having to replace the B&G instruments in my SM. My electrician says that the wires for the wind instrument might be clipped to the inside of the mast, which would make fishing a new wire through the mast difficult, even possibly requiring removal of the mast.

 

Does anyone know the precise construction of the mast? Are there vertical compartments? Are the wires attached to the mast in any way, or are they just hanging? Has anyone fished a new wire through the mast?

 

Thanks again to all in the forum for much valuable help.

 

Tom Peacock

SM Aletes  #240

 

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] wet/dry vacuum

karkauai
 

I have a 1500w 24vDC->110vAC inverter (Xantrex) and use a small 110vAC ShopVac from a big box store.
Kent


On Sep 30, 2015, at 10:47 AM, sailor63109@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

For those that have a wet/dry vacuum aboard, do you use a 24 volt, a 230 volt/40hz, or a rechargeable?

Duane
Wanderer SM477



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Free watermaker

karkauai
 

Not too many places where I'd make water while hooked up to shore power anyway.
Kent
SM243
Kristy


On Sep 30, 2015, at 8:58 AM, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

And Dessalator says that their AC systems require 50htz and cannot run on 220VAC 60htz.

I have never tried to see if it would work on 60htz...It is too expensive to ruin.

Bill
BeBe 387

On Wed, Sep 30, 2015 at 2:43 PM, Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Reid, This w/maker is a 220v model and so would require a gen set.
Good luck,
Pat SM #123
 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: reid white reidwhite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Tue, Sep 29, 2015 12:05 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Free watermaker

 
Pat: Amel did not install the w/maker. Owner installed a 12v Katadyn and I would prefer a 4' commercial membrane which is the standard available worldwide. There is no generator. If your unit requires 220v for the pressure pump then our setup is not a good fit. Thank you /Reid




On Tuesday, September 29, 2015 5:30 AM, "Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


 
Reid, What w/maker do you have now and how is it powered? Do you have a generator with 220v supply ?
Pat SM#123
 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: reid white reidwhite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Mon, Sep 28, 2015 2:04 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Free watermaker

 
We have a Sharki with a failed water maker. The previous owner installed it so that when it leaked, which it did, it did so on the motor. The issue would be how large a unit we could fit. We need new membranes etc in any case.  
Currently we are on the hard in Indiantown Marina Florida returning to it this fall for winter cruising. 
/Reid & Rheta 





On Monday, September 28, 2015 7:21 AM, "Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


 
I replaced my watermaker a few years ago and have my old one in my basement . I do not need it and I am willing to give it to someone that does. I am looking for someone that does not want it because its free , but needs it and can use it. It was never used by me as I was in fresh water , but I have no reason to believe it would not be in good condition, the only thing  that it needs is a new glass vial that measures water flow, it broke from freezing . It is a 60L 220V., includes the panel showing about 240 hrs., membranes ( would need replacing) large Lesson motor connected via fan belt to high pressure pump , hoses , filter , complete system. I would be willing to ship it (at your cost, very heavy so costly)  anywhere, USA. or could be picked up on the Sassafras River 40 miles north of Annapolis or few miles from the C&D canal for those heading south from New England.
 
Pat & Diane,
SM Shenanigans # 123
 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Alexandre Uster von Baar uster@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Mon, Sep 28, 2015 9:12 am
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Desalator D60

 
Good morning Paul,

We have the same:
http://nikimat.com/water_maker_duo_d60.html
I speak French, but from memory the owner manual didn’t say much.

I am very new at using my water maker, had it completely serviced earlier this year since it had not been used since I purchase my vessel in 2012.
I had put: new membrane, new high pressure switch. I wanted to change the high pressure hose, but service person said they were still good, which was a mistake as one blew up not too long ago and luckily only damaged my inverter…

Hopefully you can get additional feed back from others.
If you don’t know when your water maker was last used, at least change the membrane and the high pressure hoses.

To operate it, it is easy (just used it for 5 hours 2 days ago crossing to Nassau)
Prior to using: make sure the through hull valve is open, the filter is clean, etc.

in 24 volt mode: turn the switch to the left (24 Volt)
At first you will see an orange light. The water maker will be discarding bad water to the same hose as the bilge pump.
After a little while the green light will appear.
Make sure to adjust the knob to remain in the green arc.
The little bubble will show you how many litters per hour you are making.
From the little faucet you can use a PPM meter and see how many particule you have.
With a new membrane I have 10…
I forgot at what number you should be changing the Membrane (I am sure Bill or someone will give the number).

in 220 Volt mode:
Note: this is 220 Volt 50 Hz. So depending where you are located, make sure it is 50 HZ. The US, Bahamas, etc. provide 60 HZ so you would have to run your generator in order to get 50 HZ.
Turn swtich to the right (220 Volt) and the same as above.

I monitor with the water floating stick that I am making water.

On my side I preferred to hire a professional to check the high pressure switch and the quality sensor.
Don’t forget to change the high pressure hoses if you don’t know the last time they were changed.
A failure of these can cost you several thousands of dollars in damages… many people lost their batteries charger…

You should use it, at least once a week for a few minutes (to keep the membrane wet).
If you are in a marina, you can “rinse” it. There is a valve before the filter that you can move.
Now, instead of sea water it receive fresh water from your tank.
BUT, you can not use water with chlorine, otherwise will destroy the membrane.
Personally I have install a charbon filter to remove the chlorine when I flush it.

Hope that helps, sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Atlantis Marina, Nassau, Bahamas.

--------------------------------------------
On Mon, 9/28/15, osterberg.paul.l@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Desalator D60
To: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Monday, September 28, 2015, 7:45 AM


 









Hello!I have
Dessalator D60 aboard, unfortunately the only manual I have
is in French, so do not know exactly how to run or service
the water maker, I have tried to search the forum but not
find the manual, would appreciate very much if someone
upload or mail the manual to me sykerpa at gmail dot
comPaul on S/Y Kerpa SM
#259, 









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Re: Onan 6.5 kilowatt raw water pump rebuild

Gaffney, Drew <drew.gaffney@...>
 

In May, our Onan MDKAV pump leaked and wouldn’t hold a seal.  We could run the genset at anchor to make water by “priming”, but there was a salt water leak that was not acceptable.  We initially bought the rebuild kit, but realized that the pump needed to be replaced.  The vendor in St. Martin’s, after some discussion, allowed us to return the unused rebuild-kit and and simply purchased a new pump.  It was just over $300USD.  They had them “on-the-shelf”.  Replacement was straightforward.  You might be able to find a better price by searching on the web.  The pumps are made by Sherwood.   It’s better to get it from them…

Drew Gaffney

SY Revelation SM#390

Lying Norfolk VA


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] SM Mast Wiring

amelforme
 

Oh, forgot to mention, once I helped an Amel owner passing through Lauderdale replace his B&G wiring on his 48’ Maramu that got vaporized by a direct lightning hit ( and a replacement of a whole host of other stuff too). It was a piece of cake. I believe there is even a ‘chase/pull’ line in the conduit to the masthead in case using the old wires as a snake fails. Good luck with the repair.

Joel

Joel F. Potter/Cruising Yacht Specialist LLC

THE EXPERIENCED AMEL GUY

954 462 5869 office

954 812 2485 cell

 

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Wednesday, September 30, 2015 5:03 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] SM Mast Wiring

 

 

I am unfortunately faced with having to replace the B&G instruments in my SM. My electrician says that the wires for the wind instrument might be clipped to the inside of the mast, which would make fishing a new wire through the mast difficult, even possibly requiring removal of the mast.

 

Does anyone know the precise construction of the mast? Are there vertical compartments? Are the wires attached to the mast in any way, or are they just hanging? Has anyone fished a new wire through the mast?

 

Thanks again to all in the forum for much valuable help.

 

Tom Peacock

SM Aletes  #240

 

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] SM Mast Wiring

amelforme
 

Hi Tom, I would get a second opinion. The wires for the electronics and antenna run in a roomy and obstruction free channel/conduit that you can easily access, if my memory serves me well and sometimes it don’t, on the starboard side of the mast at its base. Couple of bolts on the vertical and everything is right at hand. Of course all the wires go through the ‘water trap’ area inside just above the watertight door on the forward side to their connections behind the Velcro secured panel that covers this area. I suggest another opinion as in my experiences with my own two Super Maramu’s and the now hundred or so I have prepared for the market and resold, I have yet to encounter any failures of the wires in this channel/conduit. While there is always a first time for everything, I have my doubts. What are the symptoms? B&G masthead units fail with age and particularly with nearby lightning strikes as a result of the EMP. Direct hits vaporize them. In any case, it is easy to check for continuity by anyone familiar with B&G instruments. Is the tech a B&G retailer? My experience would suggest a masthead unit failure which I can better pinpoint if you send along the symptoms. For B&G repair at a very reduced price and with superb quality by a guy who forgot more about our ‘old ’ B&G stuff that was actually built by B&G than some of these younger ‘New B&G’ wippersnappers, feel confident to contact Myles at MYLES ELECTRONICS, business, 954-584-3118 or Myles ‘at’MylesElectronics.com  . He does 99% of his repair services by  mail/UPS so he is familiar with getting things turned around and back to itinerant cruisers expeditiously. He is not my brother in law and I in no way gain anything with this unconditional recommendation other that sending enough business his way to keep this always valuable resource happily in bidnez. Lemme know if I can help some more/send the symptoms…

Joel

Joel F. Potter/Cruising Yacht Specialist LLC

THE EXPERIENCED AMEL GUY

954 462 5869 office

954 812 2485 cell

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Wednesday, September 30, 2015 5:03 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] SM Mast Wiring

 

 

I am unfortunately faced with having to replace the B&G instruments in my SM. My electrician says that the wires for the wind instrument might be clipped to the inside of the mast, which would make fishing a new wire through the mast difficult, even possibly requiring removal of the mast.

 

Does anyone know the precise construction of the mast? Are there vertical compartments? Are the wires attached to the mast in any way, or are they just hanging? Has anyone fished a new wire through the mast?

 

Thanks again to all in the forum for much valuable help.

 

Tom Peacock

SM Aletes  #240

 

 


SM Mast Wiring

peacock@...
 

I am unfortunately faced with having to replace the B&G instruments in my SM. My electrician says that the wires for the wind instrument might be clipped to the inside of the mast, which would make fishing a new wire through the mast difficult, even possibly requiring removal of the mast.


Does anyone know the precise construction of the mast? Are there vertical compartments? Are the wires attached to the mast in any way, or are they just hanging? Has anyone fished a new wire through the mast?


Thanks again to all in the forum for much valuable help.


Tom Peacock

SM Aletes  #240




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] wet/dry vacuum

VLADIMIR SONSEV
 

We use 110 AC from Home Depot. We use a transformer to convert 220 to 110 AC. The difference in frequency is not that critical. It runs as good on 50 Hz.

Vladimir
2022581916
S/V Life is Good
SM # 345   

On Sep 30, 2015 10:47 AM, "sailor63109@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

For those that have a wet/dry vacuum aboard, do you use a 24 volt, a 230 volt/40hz, or a rechargeable?

Duane
Wanderer SM477