Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Knob tops for genoa and Main Furler switch

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Eric,

I have long suspected that The Captain did this "different knob thing" because he was blind. It does help when I am not looking at the switches.

I googled "switch knobs for the blind" and found a number of interesting things. Here is one of them:

I would want to get the exact ones and I bet Amel may have them.

Bill
BeBe 387



On Mon, Oct 19, 2015 at 4:09 AM, sailormon kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

The flat knob top on the furling switch disintegrated. Anyone have an Idea as to how to make another?

It is a silly little thing but I can’t believe how used to it I was.

I was thinking of just whittling it out of a piece of nylon.

 

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 



Knob tops for genoa and Main Furler switch

sailormon <kimberlite@...>
 

The flat knob top on the furling switch disintegrated. Anyone have an Idea as to how to make another?

It is a silly little thing but I can’t believe how used to it I was.

I was thinking of just whittling it out of a piece of nylon.

 

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Dessalator D60 red light

karkauai
 

Glad to hear it was a relatively simple fix, Alan.  Same thing happened to mine after the hi pressure hose fitting failed and sprayed salt water all over the place.  I doused everything good with Corrosion X but within a month or two it died.  I was able to tap on it to get it going a few times before that failed too.

Steady as she goes.
Kent
SM243
Kristy
Charleston SC, heading South


On Oct 18, 2015, at 7:47 PM, divanz620@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

OK, its all done....it was the solenoid on the DC motor.

Turned it on checked there is power to the solenoid and power to the solenoid coil, but no go.
Disconnected the power cables from the solenoid and connected together - it runs.
Took off the solenoid, all the connectors were corroded. Measured across the coil connections -Megohms- took it apart and inside one of the coil wires had broken off the connector.
Cleaned everything, re-soldered the coil wires, replaced all the connectors on the wires leading to the solenoid. Put it all back on and it runs !!
Note the solenoid is held on the motor with two bolts and nuts through the end cap, easy to get off, but impossible to put back on without removing the end cap, which is also not possible without removing the motor. I reassembled it to the motor with large self tapping screws and Loctite thread locker.
I will source another 24VDC solenoid to replace this rusty thing and mount it somewhere else.
Photos uploaded of the watermaker and the disassembled solenoid for your interest. 
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437


Re: Dessalator D60 red light

Alan Leslie
 

OK, its all done....it was the solenoid on the DC motor.
Turned it on checked there is power to the solenoid and power to the solenoid coil, but no go.
Disconnected the power cables from the solenoid and connected together - it runs.
Took off the solenoid, all the connectors were corroded. Measured across the coil connections -Megohms- took it apart and inside one of the coil wires had broken off the connector.
Cleaned everything, re-soldered the coil wires, replaced all the connectors on the wires leading to the solenoid. Put it all back on and it runs !!
Note the solenoid is held on the motor with two bolts and nuts through the end cap, easy to get off, but impossible to put back on without removing the end cap, which is also not possible without removing the motor. I reassembled it to the motor with large self tapping screws and Loctite thread locker.
I will source another 24VDC solenoid to replace this rusty thing and mount it somewhere else.
Photos uploaded of the watermaker and the disassembled solenoid for your interest. 
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Shore power

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

If it is the water heater heating element, it will work one day and start popping the breaker the next...then it might go for two days before it pops the breaker again. Water seeping in the pinhole is what causes the ground fault.

My guess would be that it is more likely that it is the water heating element, than a weak breaker, but, it is a boat...and you know the rest of the story.

BTW, one of the things I installed shortly after buying BeBe is a Volt/Amp/Htz meter so that I can tell how many amps I am using, what the shore power voltage is before I turn anything on, and the Frequency. It is one meter from CruzPro. I really recommend it. http://www.cruzpro.com/vaf110.html 

Bill
BeBe

On Sun, Oct 18, 2015 at 3:47 PM, william_maffei@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

This is useful information I will look and let you know. Just a side note... I have been using the water heater all summer long with no problems and now this is happening when used in conjunction with the AC/heating system. Guessing this would point to the breaker? 



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Shore power

william_maffei@...
 

This is useful information I will look and let you know. Just a side note... I have been using the water heater all summer long with no problems and now this is happening when used in conjunction with the AC/heating system. Guessing this would point to the breaker? 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Shore power

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

What is the size of the breaker?

I would check the size of the breaker and measure the amp load. 

Just guessing the load:
2 Reverse Cycle Cooling/Heating units 10 amps
Water Heater 3 amps
Battery charger 3 amps
Total: 16 amps

The breaker might be 25-30 amps and weak and need replacing...

<>

The heating element in the water heater has developed a pinhole and is causing the breaker which is probably a ground fault breaker to open. The heating element in your water heater has a life of about 3-5 years before this pin-hole will develop. When you buy the heating element, be sure to buy a gasket, or be prepared to make one.

Hope this helps you.

Bill
BeBe 387
Rabat, Morocco




On Sun, Oct 18, 2015 at 3:21 PM, william_maffei@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi Everyone - 


Just wanted some input on a shore power problem I have been experiencing... While running heat (2 out of 3 units) and the hot water heater at the same time my 220v breaker has been tripping in the engine room. If I run just the heat no problems at all but about 15-20 mins after turning the H2O heater on at the same time the breaker will trip itself on occasion. Nothing seems out of the ordinary or hot. Suggestions? 


Bill M

SM #195

It's all Good 



Shore power

william_maffei@...
 

Hi Everyone - 


Just wanted some input on a shore power problem I have been experiencing... While running heat (2 out of 3 units) and the hot water heater at the same time my 220v breaker has been tripping in the engine room. If I run just the heat no problems at all but about 15-20 mins after turning the H2O heater on at the same time the breaker will trip itself on occasion. Nothing seems out of the ordinary or hot. Suggestions? 


Bill M

SM #195

It's all Good 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Stray current

Paul Osterberg
 

Thank you!
I will soon lay up for the season and will have time to seek for faulty circuts

Paul SY Kerpa SM#259


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Stray current

David Pawley
 

You could try searching for information about "Earth Lamps" in Marine Electrical literature, Its only a small step then to adapt to measure Meg ohms (less than 1 Meg Ohm is hot). Earth leakage detection equipment are found on every vessel subject to classification society rules. These are used on every separate circuit (all AC and DC).
It would not be difficult to create a earth lamp circuit that would be useful in your search for a faulty circuit. Many times I have searched for faulty circuits in ships (as Marine Engineer) usual suspects are Lighting circuits that get wet by Salt water, heating elements especially in galley ranges that get fresh water washed by enthusiastic cooks, also found in domestic fridge. Searching is done by isolating circuits one at a time until you see the fault disappear.
I don't have my old books here.

On 18 October 2015 at 02:34, osterberg.paul.l@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

I have been searching internet for devices who measure stray current, but not been able to find any device. I know they exist as we have rented aluminium boats where they are standard equipment aboard.

I suspect we have stray current, and I would welcome any idea how to find out and solve the issue and what device to install to secure that if it occur again we will find it swiftly.

Paul on S/Y Kerpa SM#259




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Rack and pinion Disassembly - Super Maramu

Olivier Beaute
 

Hi Mark,

you first need to remove the wheel. As there is no good place to put an extractor, do as follows:
Undo the nut (under the AMEL signature) until it comes flush with the end of the shaft. Then, while someone is pulling (hard) the wheel backwards, knock the nut with a hard hammer (don't be shy...). You need to be two people.
If you fear to damage the nut and shaft, use a hard wood (or bronze if you have some) wedge between the hammer and the nut.

Then take down the shaft and rack-and-pinion assembly from the bulkhead. It is easier to replace the unit if you undo the cables terminals from the rudder's quadrant, and pull the whole thing on your saloon table (or even on the dock...). Before undoing the cables from the quadrant, mark the places where the threaded tubes are going through the stringer.

Bon courage.

Olivier.



On Sunday, October 18, 2015 10:18 AM, "hobie_ind@... [amelyachtowners]" wrote:


 
I couldn't seem to email the photos from the iPad, but was able to upload them to a new Album in Photos here.

The first is a photo of the steering mechanism from inside the boat.  The second photo is of the shaft that Amel is sending.  

It looks to me like the whole shaft does pull out of the racks from the inside, but you have to pull the wheel off first clearly.  Until I get the wheel off though, I'mnot sure what's on the outside of the bulkhead under the fiberglass 'donut between the wheel and the bulkhead.  I'm guessing there's a bearing there and likely a retaining clip?

Regards,
Mark
SV Amelie IV






Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Rack and pinion Disassembly - Super Maramu

hobie_ind@...
 

I couldn't seem to email the photos from the iPad, but was able to upload them to a new Album in Photos here.

The first is a photo of the steering mechanism from inside the boat.  The second photo is of the shaft that Amel is sending.  

It looks to me like the whole shaft does pull out of the racks from the inside, but you have to pull the wheel off first clearly.  Until I get the wheel off though, I'mnot sure what's on the outside of the bulkhead under the fiberglass 'donut between the wheel and the bulkhead.  I'm guessing there's a bearing there and likely a retaining clip?

Regards,
Mark
SV Amelie IV




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Rack and pinion Disassembly - Super Maramu

sailormon <kimberlite@...>
 

Mark,

Could you Eric-mail me a few photos of your setup from inside the boat?

Kimberlite@....

Fair Winds

Eric

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Sunday, October 18, 2015 1:00 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Rack and pinion Disassembly - Super Maramu

 

 

Thanks Eric.  I'm pretty sure once I get the steering wheel off it'll be a bit clearer how to pull the shaft out.  I don't have a big enough puller so will look for one tomorrow now that I'm back in Savusavu, Fiji where there's a few shops.  

 

I'm guessing the wheel hasn't been off in 20 hrs so it's set on the shaft pretty well!

 

Thanks,

Mark

SV Amelie IV - SM#128


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Rack and pinion Disassembly - Super Maramu

sailormon <kimberlite@...>
 

Hi,

I don’t recall pulling the wheel off.

There is a bracket hanging down forward end of the shaft from the wheel. I remember attacking it from that end.

Fair Winds

Eric

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Sunday, October 18, 2015 1:00 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Rack and pinion Disassembly - Super Maramu

 

 

Thanks Eric.  I'm pretty sure once I get the steering wheel off it'll be a bit clearer how to pull the shaft out.  I don't have a big enough puller so will look for one tomorrow now that I'm back in Savusavu, Fiji where there's a few shops.  

 

I'm guessing the wheel hasn't been off in 20 hrs so it's set on the shaft pretty well!

 

Thanks,

Mark

SV Amelie IV - SM#128


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Rack and pinion Disassembly - Super Maramu

hobie_ind@...
 

Thanks Eric.  I'm pretty sure once I get the steering wheel off it'll be a bit clearer how to pull the shaft out.  I don't have a big enough puller so will look for one tomorrow now that I'm back in Savusavu, Fiji where there's a few shops.  

I'm guessing the wheel hasn't been off in 20 hrs so it's set on the shaft pretty well!

Thanks,
Mark
SV Amelie IV - SM#128


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Rack and pinion Disassembly - Super Maramu

sailormon <kimberlite@...>
 

Mark,

I replaced mine. I do not recall how I did it but it was rather straightforward.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, October 17, 2015 5:52 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Rack and pinion Disassembly - Super Maramu

 

 

Has anyone replaced the rack and pinion assembly on their Super Maramu?

 

I've got a broken tooth (or two) and need to replace them.  I've got a new pinion shaft and racks coming from Amel but am looking for any tips on disassembling the steering assembly. 

 

I'm going to replace it before we head south out of Fiji for NZ.  

 

Thanks,

Mark

SV Amelie IV - Vancouver, Canada

SM# 128


Re: Dessalator D60 red light

Alan Leslie
 

Thanks Gary,

I plan to get into the 24VDC motor later today....with your advice I think its either the capacitor or the brushes.
This water maker appears very basic.
There doesn't seem to be a control box as such but there must be some simple logic behind the panel as I can hear the fresh water solenoid diverter click when the Good Quality light comes on. 
There is a 3 position switch in the control panel to select which motor to use ..24VDC-OFF-220VAC.
Thanks for your help
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437


Re: Dessalator D60 red light

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Hi again Alan:

I missed your post indicating that the 220 VAC side is working and describing some of the differences in the systems.   I presume that with the DUO system there is some sort of selector or logic that tells the system to either run the 220 VAC side or the 24 VDC side and not both at once.  Perhaps you could enlighten us a bit about that system.  DC motors are pretty reliable but their brushes are also subject to disuse won't start-itis.

All the best, Gary


Re: Dessalator D60 red light

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Hi Allan:

The technical information I posted about the Dessalator water maker are related to the 160l/hr 220 VAC/50Hz system.  The information is in the Files Section under a folder labeled Dessalator Technical Information (or something like that).  I posted two chapters with the intent of posting more, but then life happened.  

That said, I am guessing that the 220 VAC side of things are similar to your unit.  Methodical testing is in order.  It seems you have 24 VDC power to the circuit board because you are getting a red light, which is part of that 24 VDC control circuitry so I am guessing this is a 220 VAC problem. 

Here is how I would trouble shoot:
1.  I would trip the 220 VAC water maker circuit breaker on the panel above the dishwasher and reset it. If problem persists ->>
2.  Open the 220 VAC/24VDC control box (see my write ups for location and cautions as you are dealing with potentially life threatening voltages). Verify that the BP (low pressure) and HP (high pressure) circuit breakers aren't tripped.  Perhaps try resetting each of these. -->>
3.  Use the manual over-ride lever on the low pressure pump relay to see if that will start the low pressure pump.  I suggest this to verify that 220 VAC is going to the pump.  There isn't a manual override switch to turn on the high pressure pump relay.  Using the manual low pressure pump relay override is an easy way to bypass all the logic board circuity and test to see if at least one of the pumps will run-->>
4.  If #3 doesn't work then you most likely don't have 220 VAC to the control box or the pump itself is faulty.  Use a multimeter to verify voltage to the control box, and if there is 220 VAC to the control box check to see if you have 220 VAC at the low pressure pump with the manual override switch enabled.  -->>
5.  If  you have voltage at the pump but it fails to start then it is probably a faulty start/run capacitor  but could also be faulty brushes etc.   At this point I would install a new start capacitor.  
6.  Check each of the 4 fuses in on the logic board (out of circuit, meaning remove them one by one (with power off) and test them for continuity using a multimeter.

That should get you started.  Be very careful as you work and test in the control box because of the voltages involved.  

Let me know if I can be of more help, 

Gary Silver   s/v Liahona   Amel SM #335   on the hard in Puerto Rico


Stray current

Paul Osterberg
 

I have been searching internet for devices who measure stray current, but not been able to find any device. I know they exist as we have rented aluminium boats where they are standard equipment aboard.

I suspect we have stray current, and I would welcome any idea how to find out and solve the issue and what device to install to secure that if it occur again we will find it swiftly.

Paul on S/Y Kerpa SM#259