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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Maintenance SSB antenna
Hi Bob,
If you have an automatic tuner there would be no advantage in connecting the triatic to your backstay. The tuner tunes the frequency to the length of the antenna automatically. If you don't have an auto tuner then you need to be aware of the length of your antenna relative to the frequencies you want to use. Some will work well, others hardly at all. Where in Fiji are you ? You survived WINSTON ok ? Cheers Alan Elyse SM437
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Maintenance SSB antenna
bob Sarff <bob.sarff@...>
Alan, I have a Maramu and use the backstay as my SSB antenna. It's been working well. I was wondering if lengthening the antenna by connecting my insulated triatic with gto-15 cable would improve reception/transmission. Thanks for any advise you can offer. Bob SV Chara Currently in Fiji
On Mar 2, 2016, at 7:45 AM, divanz620@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
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Re: Desallator Duo 60 220v problem -
chris2price@...
Many thanks for the advice. I've been in touch with Dessolator & they say the same thing. I'll buy a new capacitor !
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H2O maker- third
hanspeter baettig
I never mentioned to flush the watermaker with chemicals twice per week ?!? The chemical addetive is only for hybernation or during wintering when you do not use the h2o maker > 4-6 month. According to Dessalator it is not necessary to flush the membrans with fresh water twice per week or lets say every time when you are yousing the watermaker for producing fresh water. Logically the memgrans are wet. It is sufficiant to flush the h2o maker ~ 2-3 week interval. Therefor you save fresh water, and thats all about. Hanspeter Tamango 2 Von meinem iPad gesendet Am 01.03.2016 um 16:25 schrieb 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>:
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Grounding
Ian Park
I guess this means that the Santorin does not have a dedicated SSB ground. Mine therefore must be connected to the zincs, which is why they are wearing more quickly.
How have other Santorins grounded SSBs? Ian. 'OceN Hobo' SN96 Sent from my iPod
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Grounding
Hello again Kent!
Did some late night work and tanks to your input I found the wire from the zink and connected that to the bilge ground strap, so now there is no resistance between the Zink and the rudder post or the zink and the prop shaft everything seams to be alright, but still with the BLU disconnected at the chart table it is still full contact between the cooper strap in the aft lazaret and the ground strap and bye that also the zink. So still not solved my original problem! to get the sintered plates disconnected from the zink. But know much more about the ground system and can now label a few wires, which i did not know where they went Paul on S/Y Kerpa SM#259
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Maintenance SSB antenna
The insulated triatic is not useable as an SSB antenna.To answer the question though, the core of the coax is connected to the insulated triatic, the shiled is not connected to anything.
The triatic may work as a weatherfax receiver (its original intention) but as an SSB antenna it is useless...I know from experience. I connected my antenna wire from the tuner to the main backstay and it worked well. WE now have an insulated backstay for our SSB antenna...insulated only to prevent shocking the crew...the Amel rig is not grounded. Cheers Alan Elyse SM437
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Grounding
Kent!
Thank you very much this will help a lot Unfortunately I'm leaving the boat for a 14 night and have to clear out all the wires then. But I'm sure it will be much easier with this input Thank again. Paul on S/Y Kerpa SM#259
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Re: What size of anchor Rockna for Maramu.
JP Mans
OK David
But il will be in April, my boat is in Grece and I only will be there at this time. Friendly Jean-Paul
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Grounding
Hi Paul. It's very important that you understand the bonding system. If not correct, your underwater metals are at risk of galvanic and possibly electrolytic corrosion. There are five "grounding" systems on your boat. They are mostly separate from each other. Three of them use yellow/green wires...very confusing. 1. The bonding system connects all metals exposed to sea water. It is ultimately connected to the zincs on the rudder via a large y/g wire from the engine or aft end of the angle iron engine supports. It runs aft along the port side and ends at the rudder post under the starboard seat in the aft cabin. It connects to the stainless skeleton of the rudder, and the zincs bolt into that skeleton. It also connects to the discharge valve and intake through-hull for the aft head, and forward metals exposed to sea water at the A/C pump discharge and (I think) the bow thruster. All metals exposed to sea water should show a solid connection to this system and therefore to the zincs. Most of the bonding wires from forward of the engine room connect to the copper strap that bolts to the keel in the bilge sump, and a large wire also goes from that strap to the engine or its angle iron bed. Get a long enough wire to get to all parts of the boat and check the resistance between the rudder post and the zincs. There should be NO resistance (i.e. a solid connection). Then check for resistance between rudder post and all metals exposed to sea water. Anywhere you find more than minimal resistance, check the connections and repair. A fault in any raw water pump may make a connection between the DC system and bonding. This most commonly occurs at the macerator pumps for the heads. 2.& 3. DC ground, both 24v and 12v systems. Wires are usually blue, but if work has been done in the US they are probably black. All negative wires should run from the motor or other appliance directly to the 12 or 24v battery negative...NOT through the engine block as is typical on US manufactured boats. (The only exception is the start, stop, and glow plug wires from engine and generator. These are grounded to the engine, but the large wire that connects the engine block to the battery negative (12v system) goes through a solenoid that makes negative connection only when glow, start, or stop is activated. This is an "isolated ground" system. It does NOT connect to the bonding system except for the brief time that the engine or generator are being started or stopped.) If you find a connection between battery negative and the bonding system, something is connected wrong and should be corrected. 4. 220AC ground. These are y/g wires just like the bonding system. They should lead from 220 appliances back to the boat's 220 ground, not through the bonding system. There are a few places where a connection to the bonding system may occur, such as the AC Watermaker pump or Air Conditioner raw water pump, and at the generator (see earlier posts). 5. Single Sideband Antenna ground. This is also a g/y wire like the bonding system, marked BLU where it comes into the navigation station. It should connect the SSB radio to the antenna (and the copper strap in the aft lazarette, and the SSB plates on the rudder), NOT to the bonding system. In boats that did NOT come from Amel with a SSB radio, this g/y wire marked BLU is connected to the bonding system at a post behind the Nav station. If your SSB was added later, it may still be connected to the bonding system, and should be disconnected. I'm pretty sure this is all said correctly, anyone who sees something that's not right, please correct me. After any corrections are made, I'll post it to the Files section. Hope this is clear, Paul. If not I'll try again.. Kent SM 243 Kristy
On Mar 1, 2016, at 10:31 AM, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
Paul, You said, "The bolts on the rudder holding the zink are not connected electrically with each other." The bolts on the rudder holding the zincs SHOULD be connected electrically with each other and to the bonding system. You should be able to check continuity between the propeller shaft and the zincs on the rudder. If there is not continuity (electrical connection) between the propeller shaft and the zincs, you probably have a problem with the bonding system not being connected to the motor and C Drive. Bill BeBe 387 On Tue, Mar 1, 2016 at 1:54 PM, osterberg.paul.l@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Rig Tuning
Patrick McAneny
Joel, That was interesting , its good to hear confirmation of what you believe to be true. Could you address the backstays, I have never kept them nearly as tight and have gathered that they are not suppose to be. Could you comment on how tight is right .
Thanks Joel,
Pat
SM Shenanigans
-----Original Message----- From: n33077@... [amelyachtowners] To: amelyachtowners Sent: Tue, Mar 1, 2016 9:22 am Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Rig Tuning I think I just found it:
o understand why the rig tension on an Amel is so very different than on other fiberglass boats, we must first consider and understand the structural differences that Amel boats have compared to more ordinary boats from other builders. Amel boats are true monocoque structures. An egg is a perfect monocoque structure, as an illustration. If you take an egg and place it in the palm of your hand, wrap your fingers around it evenly, and then squeeze as hard as you possibly can, it will not break. Go ahead, off to the fridge you go...I'll wait. See what I mean? Only if you "point load"/unequally squeeze the egg will it crush. Great party trick by the way... Recall the recent story about Eric Freedman and being inside his Amel offshore in hurricane wind and seas; not a sound inside. No creaking or groaning. No oil canning. No panel deflection... Amel boats are one piece, no conventional hull to deck joint, they are very strong and uncommonly rigid. They are a genuine monocoque. On most fiberglass boats, the rig is tuned tight but when sailing, the leeward shrouds flop around like al dente spaghetti while the windward shrouds are tight as a drum. This is due primarily because of hull flex. Even the better known "premium brands", you know who they are, have this flexing in the hull. THIS IS NOT GOOD. Fiberglass, just like metal, gets weaker and weaker every time it is bent or flexed. Just as when one takes a paperclip and bends it back and forth a few times and it breaks in two, a flexed fiberglass hull gets weaker with use. Amel boats are designed not to flex for good reason; they stay stronger and last longer that way. The rigging needs to be exceptionally tight as well for reasons I'll relate shortly. Riggers will never believe this as it is contrary to what they know to be usual and correct. Unless a rigger unfamiliar with and not accepting of Amel idiosyncrasies can put his hands on an Amel that has been tuned by Amel, they will never believe and will refuse to tune an Amel to the tension that is required. An Amel should be tuned so that the mast is absolutely straight and perpendicular to the mast step/90 degrees. The shrouds should never be loose on the leeward side even under the press of strong breeze. Just a tad slack, but not loose and certainly not able to be moved back and forth. The headstay should only have a very modest bend even in a good breeze. I have tuned many Amel rigs and I can do it but it is hard to tell you how tight is "tight". I don't use a strain gauge, I just do it. I was a rigger in an earlier life so I know the sequence to follow to get the right outcome but it is difficult to impart to you how tight. REAL tight. Tight as you dare then a tad more. Ringing bronze tight...ahh, what's the use...... Try to find an Amel that is owned by someone we (Amel and or me) sold a boat to. We impress upon our new clients and my second hand boat clients to take note of how tight the rig is and to keep it this way. They usually do. Second only perhaps to mechanics who call all flaming irate to tell me that the Amel drive system will never work (once or twice a month sometimes) are the riggers who call to say the rig is way too tight or to insist they won't tighten it up the way we tell them too. It is the "not invented here syndrome" all over again. Ain't what I am familiar with so there-fore it can't possibly work...Sometimes they say uncharitable things about my ancestors... What's the risk? Plenty. If the rig is loose, it can move around. Combine wave action and puffy breeze and the rig can pump and move around inches with tremendously quick acceleration and sudden deceleration of all the rigging mass. This can more than double the ultimate load placed on the rig and all the components. It will loosen the boat up real quick. As mentioned before, that is not good for the structure. Just imagine accelerated pulling/jolting on all the rig points with wire connections; kinda like squeezing that egg unevenly, no? Hmmmm... Show this to your rigger. Have him call me if he says fiddlesticks. Better yet have him call Amel. They may be a bit more, uh, forceful than me (if that's possible...) but from the horses' mouth the truth shall flow. Maybe they will believe the builder as they seldom think I have it right. Best is to let them see a properly tuned Amel rig. After new rigging is installed, Amel tuned tight, and sailed in heavy breeze and seas, it will stretch as much as 8% and even more dependent on the wire quality. Tune it tight again, then put the little bolts and nuts back in the wire ends inside the turnbuckles (bet you wondered why Amel does that..) and smile. You will only need to very occasionally retune rig components as once it is right, it doesn't move, it NEVER pumps, and it stays as it was meant to by God, Captain Amel, and the entire Amel team. Me too. Trust me on this or put your hands on a well kept Amel. Have fun with your Maramu. They are very sweet sea boats. All the best, Joel Joel F. Potter - Cruising Yacht Specialist, LLC Amel's Sole Associate for the Americas 401 East Las Olas Boulevard, #130-126 Fort Lauderdale, Florida 33301 Phone: (954) 462-5869 Email: jfpottercys@... <http://www.yachtworld.com/jfpottercys> Joel F. Potter - Cruising Yacht Specialist, LLC (Fort Lauderdale, FL)
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Grounding
Thank you for that Bill
After cleaning the threads on the bolt I measure good contact between the two bolts holding the two zinks on the rudder. However when measuring between he bolts and the shaft I measure ca 1 k ohm resistance between the zink bolts and the shaft. I hd hoped for better connection Paul on S/Y Kerpa SM#259
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Grounding
Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
Paul, You said, "The bolts on the rudder holding the zink are not connected electrically with each other." The bolts on the rudder holding the zincs SHOULD be connected electrically with each other and to the bonding system. You should be able to check continuity between the propeller shaft and the zincs on the rudder. If there is not continuity (electrical connection) between the propeller shaft and the zincs, you probably have a problem with the bonding system not being connected to the motor and C Drive. Bill BeBe 387
On Tue, Mar 1, 2016 at 1:54 PM, osterberg.paul.l@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Batteries - What type house batteries to use & what voltage charge from Solar/Wind?
Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
I think that you may be describing what Dessalator calls the "sterilizing cartridge." It does work well using the "flush" procedure. I have the sterilizing cartridge, but no longer use it. I did something different for when our boat may be unattended. I make sure the fresh water tank is full. I have a programmable 24VDC timer and a 24VDC valve that is set to flush the membranes 2 times a week for 5 minutes. This uses about 30 liters of fresh water a week. If the tank is full I can easily leave the boat for 30 weeks. I leave it ON all the time, even when I am on the boat because previous to this addition, I would forget to flush twice a week. In my opinion, keeping the membranes wet with fresh water is a much better solution than using caustic chemicals. Bill BeBe 387
On Tue, Mar 1, 2016 at 1:29 PM, 'Hanspeter.baettig' hanspeter.baettig@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
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Re: Rig Tuning
n33077@...
I think I just found it:
o understand why the rig tension on an Amel is so very different than on other fiberglass boats, we must first consider and understand the structural differences that Amel boats have compared to more ordinary boats from other builders. Amel boats are true monocoque structures. An egg is a perfect monocoque structure, as an illustration. If you take an egg and place it in the palm of your hand, wrap your fingers around it evenly, and then squeeze as hard as you possibly can, it will not break. Go ahead, off to the fridge you go...I'll wait. See what I mean? Only if you "point load"/unequally squeeze the egg will it crush. Great party trick by the way... Recall the recent story about Eric Freedman and being inside his Amel offshore in hurricane wind and seas; not a sound inside. No creaking or groaning. No oil canning. No panel deflection... Amel boats are one piece, no conventional hull to deck joint, they are very strong and uncommonly rigid. They are a genuine monocoque. On most fiberglass boats, the rig is tuned tight but when sailing, the leeward shrouds flop around like al dente spaghetti while the windward shrouds are tight as a drum. This is due primarily because of hull flex. Even the better known "premium brands", you know who they are, have this flexing in the hull. THIS IS NOT GOOD. Fiberglass, just like metal, gets weaker and weaker every time it is bent or flexed. Just as when one takes a paperclip and bends it back and forth a few times and it breaks in two, a flexed fiberglass hull gets weaker with use. Amel boats are designed not to flex for good reason; they stay stronger and last longer that way. The rigging needs to be exceptionally tight as well for reasons I'll relate shortly. Riggers will never believe this as it is contrary to what they know to be usual and correct. Unless a rigger unfamiliar with and not accepting of Amel idiosyncrasies can put his hands on an Amel that has been tuned by Amel, they will never believe and will refuse to tune an Amel to the tension that is required. An Amel should be tuned so that the mast is absolutely straight and perpendicular to the mast step/90 degrees. The shrouds should never be loose on the leeward side even under the press of strong breeze. Just a tad slack, but not loose and certainly not able to be moved back and forth. The headstay should only have a very modest bend even in a good breeze. I have tuned many Amel rigs and I can do it but it is hard to tell you how tight is "tight". I don't use a strain gauge, I just do it. I was a rigger in an earlier life so I know the sequence to follow to get the right outcome but it is difficult to impart to you how tight. REAL tight. Tight as you dare then a tad more. Ringing bronze tight...ahh, what's the use...... Try to find an Amel that is owned by someone we (Amel and or me) sold a boat to. We impress upon our new clients and my second hand boat clients to take note of how tight the rig is and to keep it this way. They usually do. Second only perhaps to mechanics who call all flaming irate to tell me that the Amel drive system will never work (once or twice a month sometimes) are the riggers who call to say the rig is way too tight or to insist they won't tighten it up the way we tell them too. It is the "not invented here syndrome" all over again. Ain't what I am familiar with so there-fore it can't possibly work...Sometimes they say uncharitable things about my ancestors... What's the risk? Plenty. If the rig is loose, it can move around. Combine wave action and puffy breeze and the rig can pump and move around inches with tremendously quick acceleration and sudden deceleration of all the rigging mass. This can more than double the ultimate load placed on the rig and all the components. It will loosen the boat up real quick. As mentioned before, that is not good for the structure. Just imagine accelerated pulling/jolting on all the rig points with wire connections; kinda like squeezing that egg unevenly, no? Hmmmm... Show this to your rigger. Have him call me if he says fiddlesticks. Better yet have him call Amel. They may be a bit more, uh, forceful than me (if that's possible...) but from the horses' mouth the truth shall flow. Maybe they will believe the builder as they seldom think I have it right. Best is to let them see a properly tuned Amel rig. After new rigging is installed, Amel tuned tight, and sailed in heavy breeze and seas, it will stretch as much as 8% and even more dependent on the wire quality. Tune it tight again, then put the little bolts and nuts back in the wire ends inside the turnbuckles (bet you wondered why Amel does that..) and smile. You will only need to very occasionally retune rig components as once it is right, it doesn't move, it NEVER pumps, and it stays as it was meant to by God, Captain Amel, and the entire Amel team. Me too. Trust me on this or put your hands on a well kept Amel. Have fun with your Maramu. They are very sweet sea boats. All the best, Joel Joel F. Potter - Cruising Yacht Specialist, LLC Amel's Sole Associate for the Americas 401 East Las Olas Boulevard, #130-126 Fort Lauderdale, Florida 33301 Phone: (954) 462-5869 Email: jfpottercys@... <http://www.yachtworld.com/jfpottercys> Joel F. Potter - Cruising Yacht Specialist, LLC (Fort Lauderdale, FL)
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Rig Tuning
n33077@...
I just got my electric motors rebuilt. Riggers got the forestay back up. Now comes the question of tuning. I searched the site for Joel Potters Rig Tuning but did not find anything. From the other posts I found that the rid is to be tight. How tight? My traidic is lose, and I am having the riggers come back and re-tune the rig (moving mast forward.) Since the boat is a Sharki, I think I can use most of the info tailored to the Sharki. I also posted this on the new site too.. Thanks Aras Sharki #163
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Maintenance SSB antenna
enio rossi
Thanks Eric, the insulated part of triatic is not a dipole. Well, the copper core of the coaxial is connected to the insulated part of the triatic, but WHERE do I connect the shielding braid? A building site has replaced the triatic without reconnecting cables........
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Solar. Wind gem and arch
Thanks Pat. I thought that was the same as your arch. Hi to Diane Kent
On Mar 1, 2016, at 7:50 AM, Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
Kent & Ian, I installed the same arch last year before heading to the Caribbean and it performed very well. We hoisted a 10,5 rib with 18 hp. outboard . We have three solar panels , a wind gen.,lights and wifi installed on it. I also added a diagonal . It only took about three hours to install and cost me about $1,200. It does come out of New Jersey and the company is Atlantic Towers . They ship it in a box in three parts which bolt together , has articulating mounts.
Pat
SM Shenanigans
-----Original Message-----
From: francesringley@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...> Sent: Mon, Feb 29, 2016 3:32 pm Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Solar. Wind gem and arch Kent, the company is in New Jersey I believe and they already have the measurements for the SM. Pretty straightforward to install. It took me two days. We have a 9 foot RIB and a 9.8hp 2~stroke outboard. I will lift both when at anchor but prefer to island hop with the outboard on the rail. I put the dinghy on the aft deck for longer passages.So far, with about 3000 bluewater miles experience with it, we are satisfied. I have added a cross rail for lateral support (does not come with the arch itself). Also, I will be installing a light gauge wire mizzen masthead stay that will split to each top corner of the arch to protect against any shocks.
Ian
Loca Lola II
SM153
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Grounding
Thank you Vladimir
I have tried your concept with cleaning and now they conduct and have electric contact with the copper strip in the lazaret. Don't understand what you mean by all grounds connect to the rudder. I have checked and there are no connection with the zink on the rudder I believe, and do not understand how it could be. The bolts on the rudder holding the zink are not connected electrically with each other Paul on S/Y Kerpa SM#259
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Grounding
VLADIMIR SONSEV
Hi Paul,
On Mar 1, 2016 6:41 AM, "osterberg.paul.l@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
> > > > Hello! > Jean-Pierre > The intention is to connect the SSB to the provided ground the sintered plates on the skeg. > I have now identified that one of the YG cables attached to the bilge ground strap also was connected with the copper strip in the after lazaret. That's good, but it looks as the sintered plates have been neglected for a long time i.e a lot of deposit in the pors, when testing with my multimeter by putting the probes to the sintered plates it gives no indication of conductivity, Which I guess they should have given. further they seam to be stuck I can't loosen the screw else I would put them in White vinegar. > PAUL on S/Y Kerpa SM#259 > >
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