Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Water Tank Pick Up > Sucking Air?

Bill Kinney <greatketch@...>
 

If you are getting air into the system, it is coming in on the suction side of the pump, looking on the pressure side will not fix the problem.

You are more likely to find the problem if you look for a LEAK in the suction side of the pump, and don’t look for a restriction as the cause.  If the connections are all good, even with a totally blocked inlet you should not suck air into the system. Bill Rouse pointed out a couple of places that you should look for that leak.

One potentially useful diagnostic tool is to replace the suction hose to the pump with see-through hose so you can see the air bubbles.  That will help you identify where air is getting pulled into the system.

Bill Kinney
Harmonie SM160
Port Canaveral, Florida


On May 21, 2016, at 13:00, jeremy@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


Need a little help,


We keep getting air intermittently into the fresh water pump, we've replaced the fresh water pump, added a accumulator and working our way back we think there is a restriction on the suction.


Has anyone tapped a new suction - pick up line in a old Maramu? If so do tell....


This one is stumping myself and the mechanic :)




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Water Tank Pick Up > Sucking Air?

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

I have seen air leaks in the hose, in the junction of the hose to metal, and with the fiber washer that seals the fitting that attaches to the pump. You should use two clamps on the hose.

Have you checked all of these? What was the condition of the fiber washer...technically, you should replace it each time you loosen that connection.

Let me know if the above solves your problem. If not I have a few Mose suggestions.

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail

On May 21, 2016 1:00 PM, "jeremy@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Need a little help,


We keep getting air intermittently into the fresh water pump, we've replaced the fresh water pump, added a accumulator and working our way back we think there is a restriction on the suction.


Has anyone tapped a new suction - pick up line in a old Maramu? If so do tell....


This one is stumping myself and the mechanic :)


Water Tank Pick Up > Sucking Air?

mr_hermanns
 

Need a little help,


We keep getting air intermittently into the fresh water pump, we've replaced the fresh water pump, added a accumulator and working our way back we think there is a restriction on the suction.


Has anyone tapped a new suction - pick up line in a old Maramu? If so do tell....


This one is stumping myself and the mechanic :)


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: AMFA Marina bilge pump

galacsea2000 <no_reply@...>
 

I do think you have been very lucky.
I started with a Santorin in 97, had problems with that pump, moved to a SM2k in 2001, again had problems (one of 2 things: the flaps torn down or the teeth of the plastic wheel that transforms the rotary movement into a linear one). 
They (the manufacturer AND Amel) know the defect and have been asked many times by different owners to replaced it with a stronger material to no effect. Is is called planned obsolescence (even if it only applies to spare parts sold with an extraordinary margin).

Hope you luck continues.
Fair winds & calm seas.
JP


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Change forestay on Santorin

antonio scipioni
 

Thanks Olivier and Craig,
I tryed yesterday to remove the old forestay but I can't, I understand I have only remove the rivets and the three bolts but the furler goes down only four cm.
My forestay is in land now, I don't know why happens this but I am thinking to cut the old forestay in the head (cause I have just the new one) and remove the engine to understand.
I have fear that the old cable may have opened up to the sealing.
Advice ? Opinion ?
Br
Antonio 
SN108 Vagabundo - Rome

Inviato da iPhone

Il giorno 20/mag/2016, alle ore 08:22, Beaute Olivier atlanticyachtsurvey@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> ha scritto:

 

Hi Antonio,

sorry that I could not reply earlier. What Craig writes is right.
The furler should go down and pass the swage. You need to shake the thread-swage while you try to move the furler (or while you push the cable upwards, as your forestay/furler assembly is lying).
You don't need to remove the black disk at the bottom of the furler (it would not bring anything more).

Bon courage.

Olivier.


On Thursday, May 19, 2016 2:25 PM, "sangaris@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


 
Hello Antonio,
After you removed the rivets were you able to lift the extrusion out of its socket a few centimeters? That is where you will see the bushing - be careful not to drop it.
Did you remove the turnbuckle bottle screw so that the only thing on the end of the stay is the swaged stud bolt? If so then there should be nothing preventing the head stay from sliding out. 
Are you doing this with the mast up, or is it off the boat? If it is still up you must move the motor/gearbox assembly so you can slide the stay out.  And just to be clear, there is only one bushing but it is split in half and, no, you do not have to remove the black plastic cover.
Also, you'll need to post your photos in the photo section - they do not come through in the message text.
Cheers, Craig, SN#68 Sangaris



---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote :

Hi Olivier,
Thanks for your answer, I remember you sayd me in Canet to check the tension and the forestay, now I am reinstall all the new acmo rig and I don't understand how take out the old. I saw the delos video about and I understand I have to remove the furler (engine and gear) but how I can ?
I take out the rivets and the allens but the furler goes down some centimeters only and after he stop. The cable don't go up, I understand there are two bushing, but how I can remove ? In the furler down there is a plastic black cover, have I remove this ?
I send you some pics.
Br
Antonio





Il giorno 18/mag/2016, alle ore 15:53, Beaute Olivier atlanticyachtsurvey@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> ha scritto:

 
Hello Antonio,

as I've seen your mast lying, I suppose your genoa furler with tube and forestay are lying too.
Once you have removed the turnbuckle, you have noticed that the forestay cannot go towards the top of the tube. This is because of a nylon bushing that is installed between the furler and the tube/pulley, around the forestay, just above the swage.
This bushing is made of two half-cylinders. To release this bushing, you need to remove the furler from the tube.
Then you have two solutions:
-undo the bolts at the base of the pulley (but very likely, the aluminum  pulley is seized on the furler's stainless steel hub)
-or remove the rivets that hold the pulley onto the tube
Then, you will get access to the famous bushing, remove it and move the forestay all the way to the top of the tube.

Feel free to ask if this is not clear.

Olivier.


On Wednesday, May 18, 2016 2:34 PM, "SN 108 Vagabundo stilemare@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


 
Hi owners,
I am changing the forestay but I can't understand how remove the old cable.
Is necessary remove the engine and the gearbox ?
Where I can find the instruction?
Br
Antonio
SN108 Vagabungo

Inviato da iPhone





Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] AMFA Marina bilge pump

Richard03801 <richard03801@...>
 

Hi that 64 with the teak is not standard AMEL it is a option that I don't think AMEL will offer going forward. 

Fair Winds Smooth Sailing To All
Capt Richard 
RP Yacht Brokerage
Newport RI 
We list sell and service fine yachts including Amel's
Cell 603 767 5330

On May 21, 2016, at 11:01, Germain Jean-Pierre jgermain@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hello Gang,


When the yard in Turkey blew up my pump, they replaced it with a Vetus…  Mounted against the starboard side of the engine battery box (located in the engine bay on Eleuthera) (plug and play and works perfectly with the float switch)

I also ordered spare membranes and duck bills.  Recently, it tripped the breaker and I dismantled it to find a bushing had fractured internally and allowed the armature to short against the housing.  

I bought a new one and installed it and ….kept all the spares for future use.  


GL,

Sidebar… a 64 parked next to us last evening.  It is massive compared to ours!!!  All sorts of teak on deck, this makes it a non starter for me! 


Jean-Pierre Germain
SY Eleuthera, SM 007


On 21 May 2016, at 14:36, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Ben,

The most common cause of a failure of the Marina pumps is not the diaphragm or the flapper valves. It is caused because the hose gets old and hard and does not seal well on the pump. If that hose has never been replaced, replace it and use 2 hose clamps and some silicone grease inside the hose.

The second probable cause is that there are some inferior after-market repair kits out there. They will not last long. Get your kit from SAV"at"amel.fr.

The third probable cause is that the diaphragm should only be placed on the pump with the 
"water" side facing the water. When opening a new kit, be sure not to accidentally remove the water-side label.

Let me know if any of these suggestions help you.

Best,

Bill
BeBe 387
Carriacou


 

On Sat, May 21, 2016 at 12:11 PM, joedoakes66@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

I used my last AMFA rebuild kit so now have two non functioning bilge pumps.  Can anyone recommend a source for rebuild kits or nitrol diaphragms?  Or can anyone recommend a replacement pump in the event kits are not available?


Ben Driver

La Bella Vita

SM #347





Posted by: "Bill & Judy Rouse" <yahoogroups@...>
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: AMFA Marina bilge pump

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

JP,

Always a problem?

I have rebuilt BeBe's (387) sump pump twice in 13 years. I happen to think that is remarkable. I have known other owners that have not touched this pump in 10 years, and that is amazing! I have not heard of a single pump motor failure. The nylon gear will loose teeth if the pump arm is jammed and the diaphragm and flapper valves have a life of about five years if you are on the boat full time like me.

Maybe I am just lucky!

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail

On May 21, 2016 12:05 PM, "galacsea2000" <no_reply@...> wrote:
 

These pumps have always been a problem.
However, there is a much better and much cheaper choice, available in 12v and 24v at West Marine (US$ 334):

SEALAND T Series Discharge Pump.


Re: AMFA Marina bilge pump

galacsea2000 <no_reply@...>
 

These pumps have always been a problem.
However, there is a much better and much cheaper choice, available in 12v and 24v at West Marine (US$ 334):

SEALAND T Series Discharge Pump.


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: AMFA Marina bilge pump

VLADIMIR SONSEV
 

My bilge pump stopped working because check valve on discharge line failed. I replied the check valve and there is no problem.

On May 21, 2016 11:07 AM, "svperegrinus@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Ours got rebuilt in Ft. Lauderdale in 2013 with an Amel-sourced new membrane, etc.  In 2014, in Maine, the plastic piston between the motor and the pump wore out, so we put in a new piston sourced from Amel.


We replaced the pump's intake hose in earliest 2015.  The new hose is "Shieldflex Marine" and it is Lloyd's-rated.

The pump failed in Ireland.  In La Rochelle, we had the pump serviced by an Amel factory technician.  It failed after three months.  I serviced it myself in Spain with Amel-sourced parts, and with the correct membrane side inside, per the label.  It worked, intermittently, about 80% of the time.

This week, we got a new TF Marine TM 50 pump.  "CE" and "Made in Italy," per the manufacturer's plate (*).   This pump is said to be the successor to the AMFA Marina pump, and in fact, it looks the same, except the metal piston structure+attachment frame on the old AMFA sat horizontal (the new pump's diaphragm in/out remain vertical), whereas that structure on the TM 50 is vertical once installed.  The heavy metal casing is therefore not the same and the mounting points are slightly different.   When we stopped at Amel in Hyéres they warned me of this upfront.  Amel call this "the 2nd version" of the old pump.

The tripod structure attaching the gearbox to the motor is not "similar": it is the exact same, as is the motor and motor casing itself.

The plastic diaphragm itself, formerly gray, is now black.  The screws holding its hemispheres have been replaced with bolts.  It is nearly identical, but you can tell it is a different moulding.  The major difference is that the transversal pin with the butterfly pin that ran horizontally across the pump is not there anymore; curiously enough, the lobes that the pin ran thru are there, but sit unused and undrilled.

Per the manufacturer's plate, the new pump is rated for 30 litres/min (7.9 gal/min).  The catalog states it will self-prime to 2.5 metres.   The plate reads it will pull water a maximum of 10 metres.

We had this pump installed by Karin Team (Amel specialists) in Saint-Raphäel.  We paid €720 for the pump itself, VAT included.

The plate reads: "Serv: 30 min", so if you get a hole in your boat, be sure to plug it in 29 minutes, just before your bilge pump quits!   ;-p

Cheerio,


Peregrinus
SM2K #350 (2002)
At anchor, Rade de Agay (Provence)




(*) "Made in Italy" nowadays could mean almost anything.  AFAIK, most Prada or Gucci stuff, for example, is made in Turkey or China, shipped, and then they put a few stitches in Italy.  Or sew in a button.   It is therefore now "Made in Italy."


Re: AMFA Marina bilge pump

svperegrinus@yahoo.com
 

Ours got rebuilt in Ft. Lauderdale in 2013 with an Amel-sourced new membrane, etc.  In 2014, in Maine, the plastic piston between the motor and the pump wore out, so we put in a new piston sourced from Amel.

We replaced the pump's intake hose in earliest 2015.  The new hose is "Shieldflex Marine" and it is Lloyd's-rated.

The pump failed in Ireland.  In La Rochelle, we had the pump serviced by an Amel factory technician.  It failed after three months.  I serviced it myself in Spain with Amel-sourced parts, and with the correct membrane side inside, per the label.  It worked, intermittently, about 80% of the time.

This week, we got a new TF Marine TM 50 pump.  "CE" and "Made in Italy," per the manufacturer's plate (*).   This pump is said to be the successor to the AMFA Marina pump, and in fact, it looks the same, except the metal piston structure+attachment frame on the old AMFA sat horizontal (the new pump's diaphragm in/out remain vertical), whereas that structure on the TM 50 is vertical once installed.  The heavy metal casing is therefore not the same and the mounting points are slightly different.   When we stopped at Amel in Hyéres they warned me of this upfront.  Amel call this "the 2nd version" of the old pump.

The tripod structure attaching the gearbox to the motor is not "similar": it is the exact same, as is the motor and motor casing itself.

The plastic diaphragm itself, formerly gray, is now black.  The screws holding its hemispheres have been replaced with bolts.  It is nearly identical, but you can tell it is a different moulding.  The major difference is that the transversal pin with the butterfly pin that ran horizontally across the pump is not there anymore; curiously enough, the lobes that the pin ran thru are there, but sit unused and undrilled.

Per the manufacturer's plate, the new pump is rated for 30 litres/min (7.9 gal/min).  The catalog states it will self-prime to 2.5 metres.   The plate reads it will pull water a maximum of 10 metres.

We had this pump installed by Karin Team (Amel specialists) in Saint-Raphäel.  We paid €720 for the pump itself, VAT included.

The plate reads: "Serv: 30 min", so if you get a hole in your boat, be sure to plug it in 29 minutes, just before your bilge pump quits!   ;-p

Cheerio,


Peregrinus
SM2K #350 (2002)
At anchor, Rade de Agay (Provence)




(*) "Made in Italy" nowadays could mean almost anything.  AFAIK, most Prada or Gucci stuff, for example, is made in Turkey or China, shipped, and then they put a few stitches in Italy.  Or sew in a button.   It is therefore now "Made in Italy."


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] AMFA Marina bilge pump

Germain Jean-Pierre <jgermain@...>
 

Hello Gang,

When the yard in Turkey blew up my pump, they replaced it with a Vetus…  Mounted against the starboard side of the engine battery box (located in the engine bay on Eleuthera) (plug and play and works perfectly with the float switch)

I also ordered spare membranes and duck bills.  Recently, it tripped the breaker and I dismantled it to find a bushing had fractured internally and allowed the armature to short against the housing.  

I bought a new one and installed it and ….kept all the spares for future use.  


GL,

Sidebar… a 64 parked next to us last evening.  It is massive compared to ours!!!  All sorts of teak on deck, this makes it a non starter for me! 


Jean-Pierre Germain
SY Eleuthera, SM 007


On 21 May 2016, at 14:36, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Ben,

The most common cause of a failure of the Marina pumps is not the diaphragm or the flapper valves. It is caused because the hose gets old and hard and does not seal well on the pump. If that hose has never been replaced, replace it and use 2 hose clamps and some silicone grease inside the hose.

The second probable cause is that there are some inferior after-market repair kits out there. They will not last long. Get your kit from SAV"at"amel.fr.

The third probable cause is that the diaphragm should only be placed on the pump with the 
"water" side facing the water. When opening a new kit, be sure not to accidentally remove the water-side label.

Let me know if any of these suggestions help you.

Best,

Bill
BeBe 387
Carriacou


 

On Sat, May 21, 2016 at 12:11 PM, joedoakes66@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

I used my last AMFA rebuild kit so now have two non functioning bilge pumps.  Can anyone recommend a source for rebuild kits or nitrol diaphragms?  Or can anyone recommend a replacement pump in the event kits are not available?


Ben Driver

La Bella Vita

SM #347





Posted by: "Bill & Judy Rouse" <yahoogroups@...>
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] AMFA Marina bilge pump

Paul LaFrance <pflafrance@...>
 

Ben
We had the same problem and eventually changed the unit.
Ours has been on for 4 years and no problem. As you may be in St Martin, Island Water world has the pump that we have. It is on pg 466 of the catalogue, part # DW22400 cost is $392.50 before discount. It is made by TW ??? made in the USA and is 24V
Paul LaFrance
SV NOMAD #362 SM


To: amelyachtowners@...
From: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Sat, 21 May 2016 05:11:38 -0700
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] AMFA Marina bilge pump

 

I used my last AMFA rebuild kit so now have two non functioning bilge pumps.  Can anyone recommend a source for rebuild kits or nitrol diaphragms?  Or can anyone recommend a replacement pump in the event kits are not available?


Ben Driver
La Bella Vita
SM #347


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] AMFA Marina bilge pump

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Ben,

The most common cause of a failure of the Marina pumps is not the diaphragm or the flapper valves. It is caused because the hose gets old and hard and does not seal well on the pump. If that hose has never been replaced, replace it and use 2 hose clamps and some silicone grease inside the hose.

The second probable cause is that there are some inferior after-market repair kits out there. They will not last long. Get your kit from SAV"at"amel.fr.

The third probable cause is that the diaphragm should only be placed on the pump with the 
"water" side facing the water. When opening a new kit, be sure not to accidentally remove the water-side label.

Let me know if any of these suggestions help you.

Best,

Bill
BeBe 387
Carriacou


 

On Sat, May 21, 2016 at 12:11 PM, joedoakes66@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

I used my last AMFA rebuild kit so now have two non functioning bilge pumps.  Can anyone recommend a source for rebuild kits or nitrol diaphragms?  Or can anyone recommend a replacement pump in the event kits are not available?


Ben Driver

La Bella Vita

SM #347



AMFA Marina bilge pump

Ben and Gayle Super Maramu #347
 

I used my last AMFA rebuild kit so now have two non functioning bilge pumps.  Can anyone recommend a source for rebuild kits or nitrol diaphragms?  Or can anyone recommend a replacement pump in the event kits are not available?


Ben Driver

La Bella Vita

SM #347


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Removing C Drive

Craig Briggs
 

Thanks to Olivier and Paul through emails, I now have clear schematics and good advice for the job. For anyone following this thread let me copy Olivier's very clear explanation: 
the upper unit is attached to a GRP part called a "trumpet". This part connects to the hull "chimney" thanks to the big hose (with its four hose clamps).
I confirm the connection between the upper shaft and the bottom vertical shaft is a spline. The upper is a male and the bottom a female.
You could remove the four bolts that attach the upper unit to the trumpet, but in your case, it wouldn't help because you want to remove the lower unit. I confirm the trumpet is long enough to prevent removing the lower unit.
So, you need to remove the upper unit with the trumpet.
The reason why it is "stuck" is that this hasn't been removed for more than 20 years. I hope the spline connection is not corroded (as you got water in the oil) but I don't think so because the amount of oil is much more than the water.

You could however do it in two steps:
-first remove the upper unit without the trumpet
-then pull the trumpet with a metal part that you bolt onto its four holes.

Cheers, Craig, SN#68 Sangaris.  




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Removing C Drive

Craig Briggs
 


Many thanks, Paul. 
Just to be clear, when you say undo the 2 nuts on the cross member, you do mean the two nuts on the stud bolts coming up from the rubber mounts - correct? 
Then, by undoing the 4 bolts on the bottom of the unit and breaking the seal does the casing that is inside the BIG rubber hose section then stay in place?  That is, you do not have to remove the hose clamps?
Finally, I could not find an attached schematic - could you email that to me at sangaris-at-aol-dot-com?
And, yes, the boat is hauled and the C drive is drained of oil.
I really appreciate your input - thanks again.
Craig
---In amelyachtowners@..., <pflafrance@...> wrote :

Craig
We did this the past year. First undo the 2 nuts on the cross member.
Undo the 4 bolts on the bottom of the unit. These are down by the 2 clamps holding the rubber on. The bolts are on the underside.
Next hit the side of the housing with a 5 lb sledge hammer
Next take a chisel and hammer and drive in between the part where the nuts came off the bottom. This takes some time, but eventually the seal is broken between the 2 pieces of metal. A couple of blows with the sledge also helps.
The shaft pulls out and is on a spline. The weight is approx 50 lbs. Pull straight up.
Attached is a schematic of the shaft from Amel.
I thinking you have already undone the hoses to the oil reservoir and this should lower most of the oil. One method of getting the majority of the oil out is undo one of the Allen key bolts slightly on the bottom and the oil drains out. This Allen bolt is one of 6-8 and comes out the side were the shaft is.

Paul LaFrance
SV NOMAD SM#362
To: amelyachtowners@...
From: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Fri, 20 May 2016 10:42:54 -0700
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Removing C Drive



























I'd appreciate some expert advice on removing the C drive. Last September there was good discussion where Kent and Olivier said to loosen the hose clamps on the BIG hose sealing the upper unit to the hull then lift the upper unit out of the boat. Then, after removing the bolt holding the lower unit to the keel, remove the lower unit by sliding it aft.



After removing the engine coupling, I've got the upper unit mounting bolts off and the hose clamps off but cannot get the upper unit to move at all. Am using hundreds of pounds of upward force from a halyard.
From the picture of the cut-away drive at the Amel office and the difficult-to-read picture of the schematic, I can't quite figure out the assembly of the vertical shaft. Is there a spline that should slip open? Could the three O rings on the vertical tube around the vertical shaft or marine junk in there be holding it?
Or, do I need to disassemble the upper unit, pull the upper drive shaft and then the vertical drive shaft (although there is a lower bevel gear that would seem to prevent removing the vertical shaft.


At the moment I cannot rotate the upper unit because it is still on the bolts of the mounts. I could unbolt the base of the mounts and then rotate the upper unit back and forth and maybe break it free. But that would only help if there is a spline that will allow the upper unit to be raised.


All help very much appreciated!


Cheers, Craig Briggs, SN#68, SANGARIS, on the hard in Ft Lauderdale


















[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Removing C Drive

Paul LaFrance <pflafrance@...>
 

Craig
We did this the past year. First undo the 2 nuts on the cross member.
Undo the 4 bolts on the bottom of the unit. These are down by the 2 clamps holding the rubber on. The bolts are on the underside.
Next hit the side of the housing with a 5 lb sledge hammer
Next take a chisel and hammer and drive in between the part where the nuts came off the bottom. This takes some time, but eventually the seal is broken between the 2 pieces of metal. A couple of blows with the sledge also helps.
The shaft pulls out and is on a spline. The weight is approx 50 lbs. Pull straight up.
Attached is a schematic of the shaft from Amel.
I thinking you have already undone the hoses to the oil reservoir and this should lower most of the oil. One method of getting the majority of the oil out is undo one of the Allen key bolts slightly on the bottom and the oil drains out. This Allen bolt is one of 6-8 and comes out the side were the shaft is.

Paul LaFrance
SV NOMAD SM#362
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Fri, 20 May 2016 10:42:54 -0700
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Removing C Drive



























I'd appreciate some expert advice on removing the C drive. Last September there was good discussion where Kent and Olivier said to loosen the hose clamps on the BIG hose sealing the upper unit to the hull then lift the upper unit out of the boat. Then, after removing the bolt holding the lower unit to the keel, remove the lower unit by sliding it aft.



After removing the engine coupling, I've got the upper unit mounting bolts off and the hose clamps off but cannot get the upper unit to move at all. Am using hundreds of pounds of upward force from a halyard.
From the picture of the cut-away drive at the Amel office and the difficult-to-read picture of the schematic, I can't quite figure out the assembly of the vertical shaft. Is there a spline that should slip open? Could the three O rings on the vertical tube around the vertical shaft or marine junk in there be holding it?
Or, do I need to disassemble the upper unit, pull the upper drive shaft and then the vertical drive shaft (although there is a lower bevel gear that would seem to prevent removing the vertical shaft.


At the moment I cannot rotate the upper unit because it is still on the bolts of the mounts. I could unbolt the base of the mounts and then rotate the upper unit back and forth and maybe break it free. But that would only help if there is a spline that will allow the upper unit to be raised.


All help very much appreciated!


Cheers, Craig Briggs, SN#68, SANGARIS, on the hard in Ft Lauderdale


















[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Removing C Drive

Craig Briggs
 

I'd appreciate some expert advice on removing the C drive. Last September there was good discussion where Kent and Olivier said to loosen the hose clamps on the BIG hose sealing the upper unit to the hull then lift the upper unit out of the boat. Then, after removing the bolt holding the lower unit to the keel, remove the lower unit by sliding it aft.


After removing the engine coupling, I've got the upper unit mounting bolts off and the hose clamps off but cannot get the upper unit to move at all. Am using hundreds of pounds of upward force from a halyard. 

From the picture of the cut-away drive at the Amel office and the difficult-to-read picture of the schematic, I can't quite figure out the assembly of the vertical shaft.  Is there a spline that should slip open? Could the three O rings on the vertical tube around the vertical shaft or marine junk in there be holding it?  

Or, do I need to disassemble the upper unit, pull the upper drive shaft and then the vertical drive shaft (although there is a lower bevel gear that would seem to prevent removing the vertical shaft.


At the moment I cannot rotate the upper unit because it is still on the bolts of the mounts.  I could unbolt the base of the mounts and then rotate the upper unit back and forth and maybe break it free.  But that would only help if there is a spline that will allow the upper unit to be raised.


All help very much appreciated!


Cheers,  Craig Briggs, SN#68, SANGARIS, on the hard in Ft Lauderdale



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Change forestay on Santorin

Olivier Beaute
 

Hi Antonio,

sorry that I could not reply earlier. What Craig writes is right.
The furler should go down and pass the swage. You need to shake the thread-swage while you try to move the furler (or while you push the cable upwards, as your forestay/furler assembly is lying).
You don't need to remove the black disk at the bottom of the furler (it would not bring anything more).

Bon courage.

Olivier.


On Thursday, May 19, 2016 2:25 PM, "sangaris@... [amelyachtowners]" wrote:


 
Hello Antonio,
After you removed the rivets were you able to lift the extrusion out of its socket a few centimeters? That is where you will see the bushing - be careful not to drop it.
Did you remove the turnbuckle bottle screw so that the only thing on the end of the stay is the swaged stud bolt? If so then there should be nothing preventing the head stay from sliding out. 
Are you doing this with the mast up, or is it off the boat? If it is still up you must move the motor/gearbox assembly so you can slide the stay out.  And just to be clear, there is only one bushing but it is split in half and, no, you do not have to remove the black plastic cover.
Also, you'll need to post your photos in the photo section - they do not come through in the message text.
Cheers, Craig, SN#68 Sangaris



---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote :

Hi Olivier,
Thanks for your answer, I remember you sayd me in Canet to check the tension and the forestay, now I am reinstall all the new acmo rig and I don't understand how take out the old. I saw the delos video about and I understand I have to remove the furler (engine and gear) but how I can ?
I take out the rivets and the allens but the furler goes down some centimeters only and after he stop. The cable don't go up, I understand there are two bushing, but how I can remove ? In the furler down there is a plastic black cover, have I remove this ?
I send you some pics.
Br
Antonio
image1.JPG
image2.JPG

image3.JPG
image4.JPG
Il giorno 18/mag/2016, alle ore 15:53, Beaute Olivier atlanticyachtsurvey@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> ha scritto:

 
Hello Antonio,

as I've seen your mast lying, I suppose your genoa furler with tube and forestay are lying too.
Once you have removed the turnbuckle, you have noticed that the forestay cannot go towards the top of the tube. This is because of a nylon bushing that is installed between the furler and the tube/pulley, around the forestay, just above the swage.
This bushing is made of two half-cylinders. To release this bushing, you need to remove the furler from the tube.
Then you have two solutions:
-undo the bolts at the base of the pulley (but very likely, the aluminum  pulley is seized on the furler's stainless steel hub)
-or remove the rivets that hold the pulley onto the tube
Then, you will get access to the famous bushing, remove it and move the forestay all the way to the top of the tube.

Feel free to ask if this is not clear.

Olivier.


On Wednesday, May 18, 2016 2:34 PM, "SN 108 Vagabundo stilemare@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


 
Hi owners,
I am changing the forestay but I can't understand how remove the old cable.
Is necessary remove the engine and the gearbox ?
Where I can find the instruction?
Br
Antonio
SN108 Vagabungo

Inviato da iPhone





Re: Change forestay on Santorin

Craig Briggs
 

Hello Antonio,
After you removed the rivets were you able to lift the extrusion out of its socket a few centimeters? That is where you will see the bushing - be careful not to drop it.
Did you remove the turnbuckle bottle screw so that the only thing on the end of the stay is the swaged stud bolt? If so then there should be nothing preventing the head stay from sliding out. 
Are you doing this with the mast up, or is it off the boat? If it is still up you must move the motor/gearbox assembly so you can slide the stay out.  And just to be clear, there is only one bushing but it is split in half and, no, you do not have to remove the black plastic cover.
Also, you'll need to post your photos in the photo section - they do not come through in the message text.
Cheers, Craig, SN#68 Sangaris



---In amelyachtowners@..., <stilemare@...> wrote :

Hi Olivier,
Thanks for your answer, I remember you sayd me in Canet to check the tension and the forestay, now I am reinstall all the new acmo rig and I don't understand how take out the old. I saw the delos video about and I understand I have to remove the furler (engine and gear) but how I can ?
I take out the rivets and the allens but the furler goes down some centimeters only and after he stop. The cable don't go up, I understand there are two bushing, but how I can remove ? In the furler down there is a plastic black cover, have I remove this ?
I send you some pics.
Br
Antonio





Il giorno 18/mag/2016, alle ore 15:53, Beaute Olivier atlanticyachtsurvey@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> ha scritto:

 

Hello Antonio,

as I've seen your mast lying, I suppose your genoa furler with tube and forestay are lying too.
Once you have removed the turnbuckle, you have noticed that the forestay cannot go towards the top of the tube. This is because of a nylon bushing that is installed between the furler and the tube/pulley, around the forestay, just above the swage.
This bushing is made of two half-cylinders. To release this bushing, you need to remove the furler from the tube.
Then you have two solutions:
-undo the bolts at the base of the pulley (but very likely, the aluminum  pulley is seized on the furler's stainless steel hub)
-or remove the rivets that hold the pulley onto the tube
Then, you will get access to the famous bushing, remove it and move the forestay all the way to the top of the tube.

Feel free to ask if this is not clear.

Olivier.


On Wednesday, May 18, 2016 2:34 PM, "SN 108 Vagabundo stilemare@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


 
Hi owners,
I am changing the forestay but I can't understand how remove the old cable.
Is necessary remove the engine and the gearbox ?
Where I can find the instruction?
Br
Antonio
SN108 Vagabungo

Inviato da iPhone