Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: AC Compressor Death...

Mark Erdos
 

The previous owner of Cream Puff replaced the original Climma aft AC unit with a Marine Aaair unit. It lasted about 4 or 5 years and the reverse cycle valve seized. It also iced over during long runs. We eventually became tired of repairing it. We replaced this unit with a Climma unit like Amel had originally installed. Very happy with Climma!

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Super Maramu 2000

Hull #275

www.creampuff.us

Currently cruising:  George Town, Great Exuma - Bahamas

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Tuesday, May 24, 2016 6:15 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: AC Compressor Death...

 

 

We bought a Marine Air (Airrr) in 2014.  In winter, it can reverse its pump and provide heat.  The plate reads:

 

VTD12KZ-410A 230V/60/1

208-230V 60Hz 1 Phase

Elec Data Above Based on 230V/60Hz

BTU Derated a 200V/50Hz - 220 Max

Max fuse 15A Min Fuse 11A

 

The manufacturer ceased to warranty for 50/60 Hz dual use about 5 years ago, we understand.

 

We used it for a year in the US/Canada at 60 Hz when at dock and at 50 Hz when on generator and then we have used it for a year in Europe at 50 Hz.

 

We purchased the 12,000 BTU unit because it cost only $56 more but recommend the 10,000 BTU unit because the one we got, with the fan at minimum (which is the only way we run it), produces more airflow than we need or want, and we are very sensitive to any sort of noise on Peregrinus.

 

Cheerio,

 

Peregrinus

SM2K Nr. 350

At anchor, Antibes

 

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Stuck Drawer

Andrew & Kate Lamb
 

Excellent story!

Andrew

Ronpische
SM 472


On 24 May 2016, at 19:33, 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

So, this was different….

 

We use the forward draw under the starboard settee in the salon to store pots and pans. During a sail, one of the lids shifted and became upright at the back of the drawer. This prevented us from pulling the drawer open. The wood framing above the drawer doesn’t completely cover the drawer when closed. We then discovered there is no other way to access the drawer without opening it the normal way. I thought perhaps I could remove the base of the settee to get to the top of the drawers. Not so. The drawer would pull forwarded only about 2” before the pot lid jammed upright in the framework. I found I could lie on the floor and with the aid of a flashlight could see through a really small crack at the top of the drawer. I used a piece of stiff wire (like a coat hanger) to poke at the lid and tried to position it forward so it would not jam the drawer. I made a small hook in the wire to help “pull” the pot lid forward. Holding the flashlight and using the wire through the small crack was very challenging. I needed to pull the lid, pull the draw and hold the flashlight all at the same time. As I pulled the drawer, the small crack became even smaller making it even harder to finesse. After about an hour, my legs, shoulders and arms were numb. My eyeglasses refused to stay on my nose with my face upside-down. I eventfully had success and opened the drawer.

 

Lesson learned: do not overfill these drawers and make sure pot lids lay flat in the bottom.

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Super Maramu 2000

Hull #275

www.creampuff.us

Currently cruising:  George Town, Great Exuma Island - Bahamas


Stuck Drawer

Mark Erdos
 

So, this was different….

 

We use the forward draw under the starboard settee in the salon to store pots and pans. During a sail, one of the lids shifted and became upright at the back of the drawer. This prevented us from pulling the drawer open. The wood framing above the drawer doesn’t completely cover the drawer when closed. We then discovered there is no other way to access the drawer without opening it the normal way. I thought perhaps I could remove the base of the settee to get to the top of the drawers. Not so. The drawer would pull forwarded only about 2” before the pot lid jammed upright in the framework. I found I could lie on the floor and with the aid of a flashlight could see through a really small crack at the top of the drawer. I used a piece of stiff wire (like a coat hanger) to poke at the lid and tried to position it forward so it would not jam the drawer. I made a small hook in the wire to help “pull” the pot lid forward. Holding the flashlight and using the wire through the small crack was very challenging. I needed to pull the lid, pull the draw and hold the flashlight all at the same time. As I pulled the drawer, the small crack became even smaller making it even harder to finesse. After about an hour, my legs, shoulders and arms were numb. My eyeglasses refused to stay on my nose with my face upside-down. I eventfully had success and opened the drawer.

 

Lesson learned: do not overfill these drawers and make sure pot lids lay flat in the bottom.

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Super Maramu 2000

Hull #275

www.creampuff.us

Currently cruising:  George Town, Great Exuma Island - Bahamas


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: AC Compressor Death...

karkauai
 

I have a way of doing that to my friends. 
Kent

On May 24, 2016, at 8:54 AM, Jean-Pierre Germain jgermain@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

We installed  Webasto 3 zone unit. 42k BTU reverse cycle unit. Kent us warm in winter and cool in 44C Heat

Jean-Pierre Germain
Eleuthera SM 007




On 24 May 2016, at 12:15, svperegrinus@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

We bought a Marine Air (Airrr) in 2014.  In winter, it can reverse its pump and provide heat.  The plate reads:


VTD12KZ-410A 230V/60/1
208-230V 60Hz 1 Phase
Elec Data Above Based on 230V/60Hz
BTU Derated a 200V/50Hz - 220 Max
Max fuse 15A Min Fuse 11A

The manufacturer ceased to warranty for 50/60 Hz dual use about 5 years ago, we understand.

We used it for a year in the US/Canada at 60 Hz when at dock and at 50 Hz when on generator and then we have used it for a year in Europe at 50 Hz.

We purchased the 12,000 BTU unit because it cost only $56 more but recommend the 10,000 BTU unit because the one we got, with the fan at minimum (which is the only way we run it), produces more airflow than we need or want, and we are very sensitive to any sort of noise on Peregrinus.

Cheerio,

Peregrinus
SM2K Nr. 350
At anchor, Antibes



Oasis in Bonaire

karkauai
 

Hi all,
I discovered an Amel named Oasis at the boatyard in Kralendijk, Bonaire. ?Santorin or Maramu, I think. It's tucked away and smothered in cruising gear. Does anyone know the owner or history?
Dankin
Kent
SM243
Kristy


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: AC Compressor Death...

Jean-Pierre Germain <jgermain@...>
 

We installed  Webasto 3 zone unit. 42k BTU reverse cycle unit. Kent us warm in winter and cool in 44C Heat

Jean-Pierre Germain
Eleuthera SM 007




On 24 May 2016, at 12:15, svperegrinus@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

We bought a Marine Air (Airrr) in 2014.  In winter, it can reverse its pump and provide heat.  The plate reads:


VTD12KZ-410A 230V/60/1
208-230V 60Hz 1 Phase
Elec Data Above Based on 230V/60Hz
BTU Derated a 200V/50Hz - 220 Max
Max fuse 15A Min Fuse 11A

The manufacturer ceased to warranty for 50/60 Hz dual use about 5 years ago, we understand.

We used it for a year in the US/Canada at 60 Hz when at dock and at 50 Hz when on generator and then we have used it for a year in Europe at 50 Hz.

We purchased the 12,000 BTU unit because it cost only $56 more but recommend the 10,000 BTU unit because the one we got, with the fan at minimum (which is the only way we run it), produces more airflow than we need or want, and we are very sensitive to any sort of noise on Peregrinus.

Cheerio,

Peregrinus
SM2K Nr. 350
At anchor, Antibes



Re: AC Compressor Death...

svperegrinus@yahoo.com
 

We bought a Marine Air (Airrr) in 2014.  In winter, it can reverse its pump and provide heat.  The plate reads:

VTD12KZ-410A 230V/60/1
208-230V 60Hz 1 Phase
Elec Data Above Based on 230V/60Hz
BTU Derated a 200V/50Hz - 220 Max
Max fuse 15A Min Fuse 11A

The manufacturer ceased to warranty for 50/60 Hz dual use about 5 years ago, we understand.

We used it for a year in the US/Canada at 60 Hz when at dock and at 50 Hz when on generator and then we have used it for a year in Europe at 50 Hz.

We purchased the 12,000 BTU unit because it cost only $56 more but recommend the 10,000 BTU unit because the one we got, with the fan at minimum (which is the only way we run it), produces more airflow than we need or want, and we are very sensitive to any sort of noise on Peregrinus.

Cheerio,

Peregrinus
SM2K Nr. 350
At anchor, Antibes



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Recruiting Your Latest Thoughts on Interior Lights

VLADIMIR SONSEV
 

Perhaps not the main, but for other interior lights it is OK.
I instolled it in the cockpit. I like it.
This improvement is inexpensive and easy to implement.

On May 17, 2016 6:57 PM, "Bill Kinney greatketch@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Thanks Valdimir!  I am going to try one of those for the light in the cockpit over the companionway.  But at 145 lumens, I don’t think it’s going to cut it as a main saloon light.



On May 17, 2016, at 17:52, Vladimir Sonsev sonsev52@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


See Marinebeam 
Red/White "Switchable" LED for Dome Lights (UN-DOME-15-RWW)
$23.00

On May 17, 2016 3:05 PM, "James Alton lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Bill,


   The 600 Lumen Alpenglows look really interesting.  I would like to see some of these in person sometime.  But yes,I agree 80 lumen is completely inadequate.   I remembered reading that MB had a red option but I did not read the specs. since I was not interested in them at the time.  The 300 lumen bulb that I linked you to however is a nice direct replacement for a bayonet style fixture.

James
On May 17, 2016, at 3:34 PM, Bill Kinney greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

I think you are talking about these….



Two issues with those. One minor:  flipping a switch twice every time I want a white light would quickly get old (Yeah, I know… picky, picky!) But the real problem is that they only give off 80 lumens of white light. That’s just not enough for these old eyes to read with, and it leaves the cabin very dark and dingy to my eyes.  Others might be fine with it...

The Alpenglow lamps put out 600 lumens.  That’s what I am used to in a boat cabin.  It’s not an arc light, it only the equivalent of a roughly a 50 watt incandescent bulb.  80 Lumens is roughly equal to a 10 watt light bulb, and that just isn’t sufficient for me to engage in real 24 hour activity.  Again, others might feel differently.

Bill Kinney
Harmonie, SM#160
Port Canaveral, Florida

On May 17, 2016, at 13:53, Vladimir Sonsev sonsev52@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


There are LED light balbs that go from red to wight depending on how many times you turn the switch ON/OFF. I have it on my previous boat. I like it. I want to get it for the cabin dome light.
I bought it on the Annapolis Boat show. Unfortunately I do not have the manufacturer name. I will try to find it. If I find it I post it. If you find it first please post it. 

On May 17, 2016 12:17 PM, "greatketch@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

On our boat (SM #160) the installed cabin dome lights are single bulb G4 fixtures that have been converted to Dr LED bulbs.

There are two big problems from our perspective.  First there is NO provision for red lights for night vision protection, and the white LEDs are not nearly bright enough for our tastes.

Before pulling the trigger on converting saloon and galley to Alpenglow lamps, which I have great experience with, (https://www.alpenglowlights.com/overhead-light-info.html) I am wondering if anybody has other suggestions for adding red bulbs, and bright (9 Watt/600 lumen) high CRI white LED?

Bill Kinney
Harmonie SM #160
Port Canaveral, Florida.












Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: stripped/cross threaded screws and bolts

Richard03801 <richard03801@...>
 

Yep your on a boat. Be happy it's an AMEL. 

Fair Winds Smooth Sailing To All
Capt Richard 
RP Yacht Brokerage
Newport RI 
We list sell and service fine yachts including Amel's
Cell 603 767 5330

On May 23, 2016, at 21:39, william_maffei@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Thanks everyone for the input. There really is nothing worse than your "10 minute" project taking 2 hours cause of a stubborn bolt/screw. Cheers and fair winds!


Bill Maffei
SM #195
It's all Good 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] What's locking the furlers

Richard03801 <richard03801@...>
 

It's the nature of a worm gear set. Un driven they lock. 

Fair Winds Smooth Sailing To All
Capt Richard 
RP Yacht Brokerage
Newport RI 
We list sell and service fine yachts including Amel's
Cell 603 767 5330

On May 23, 2016, at 15:25, Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

I assumed that the gear ratio is so high that it doesn't take much
friction to keep it from turning?  But that's just my guess.
Kent
SM243
Kristy 



Re: stripped/cross threaded screws and bolts

william_maffei@...
 

Thanks everyone for the input. There really is nothing worse than your "10 minute" project taking 2 hours cause of a stubborn bolt/screw. Cheers and fair winds!

Bill Maffei
SM #195
It's all Good 


Re: Climma AC issue

Derick Gates SM2K #400 Brava
 

Bill, Eric and Kent,  thanks for all the suggestions.  No new refrigerator gas has been added since I have owned the boat (three years).  I agree with you that something is causing the rear unit to draw more than 10 amps.  I think I will pull the unit next and see if there is something that correlates with the circuit breaker tripping.  If I do not see something obvious, it will be time to call the Climma technician!

If I find out something new, I will post it.

Derick 
SM2K#400


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: stripped/cross threaded screws and bolts

Eric Freedman
 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] AC Compressor Death...

Stephen Davis
 

Hi Bill, 

We replaced both of our AC units with Marine Air systems in 2014 while in St Augustine. The manual says they are rated for 230v and 60hz. We contacted Marine Air prior to purchase, and they told us they would do fine at 50hz. We just spent a couple of weeks on the dock in Martinique, ran them every day on 230v and 50hz, and they did fine. 

Good luck getting your AC replaced. 

Steve Davis
Aloha SM72
Trinidad

On May 23, 2016, at 16:36, greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

After 20 years, the compressor on our aft cabin AC unit has died.  Cause of death is a failure of the internal check valves, so the motor runs, but doesn't pump refrigerant. Not an unusual failure mode in this type of unit.

Seems crazy to put a new compressor into a unit as old as this.

The specifications for the original Cruisair SX7C described a 60hz unit that ran at reduced capacity when run at 50Hz.  I can not find a similar statement in the specifications for current production units.  Can someone confirm that current Cruisair units specified as 60Hz models will run happily at 50Hz?

Bill Kinney
Harmonie, SM#160
Port Canaveral, Florida.



Re: stripped/cross threaded screws and bolts

Craig Briggs
 

Hi Bill,
As other posts have noted, there are lots of ways to skin a cat.  
I had a guy in Greece use a unique approach for one of the Flat Head bolts on my stanchion where the slot was chewed up from trying to loosen it with a screwdriver. He took a short Hex Head bolt of about the same diameter and welded it to the top of the flat head bolt. Then he just used a socket wrench to remove both. Voila!  Whole process took 15 minutes. Would work, I should think, in many situations, and the welding heat probably helps too.  So add a small tig welder to your tool box.
Cheers,
Craig Briggs, SN#68, Sangaris 


---In amelyachtowners@..., <william_maffei@...> wrote :

Wondering if anyone could share any tips they use to extract stripped/cross threaded screws and bolts. Add the marine environment and this can be a time consuming project that I would love to the advise of others. I have a couple screw bolts that I can only assume are a combination of all these (stripped, cross threaded and corroded) that I need to remove and replace. 


Cheers,


Bill Maffei 

It's all Good 

SM #195


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Change forestay on Santorin

Craig Briggs
 

Hi Antonio,
OK, so you did remove the turnbuckle. Good. And I can see you drilled out the 8 rivets.
When you say "When I tried to remove I removed turnbuckle rivets and all stop the way." do you mean you removed the turnbuckle AND the rivets and could not get the cable out? Mama Mia! I think that is where we started :-)

Question 1: Is the problem that you cannot get the extrusion out of the socket?
Or, Question 2:  can you get the extrusion out of the socket but you cannot get the cable out?

If you have the extrusion out, then just pull harder on the cable and jerk it some.  It may be that the bushing is jammed down and if you pull really hard and jerk it the stud bolt should pull the bushing out.

At this point I would not cut the cable because you need the stud bolt attached to get the bushing out as you remove the cable.  If you cut the cable you will have to use some sort of pipe or rod to push out the bushing from the bottom.

Let me know the answers to my two questions above.
Craig

---In amelyachtowners@..., <stilemare@...> wrote :

Hi Craig,
Thank you for your help, in the picture you can see the turnbuckle on the forestay BUT only because I reinstall after trying to remove the forestay. 
When I tried to remove I removed turnbuckle rivets and all stop the way.
Antonio 


AC Compressor Death...

greatketch@...
 

After 20 years, the compressor on our aft cabin AC unit has died.  Cause of death is a failure of the internal check valves, so the motor runs, but doesn't pump refrigerant. Not an unusual failure mode in this type of unit.

Seems crazy to put a new compressor into a unit as old as this.

The specifications for the original Cruisair SX7C described a 60hz unit that ran at reduced capacity when run at 50Hz.  I can not find a similar statement in the specifications for current production units.  Can someone confirm that current Cruisair units specified as 60Hz models will run happily at 50Hz?

Bill Kinney
Harmonie, SM#160
Port Canaveral, Florida.



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Climma AC issue

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Derick,

The frequency change from 50htz to 60htz will cause an electric motor to run 20% faster. So the compressor, the water pump, and the fan are turning more RPMs. If the sealed system has too much freon and the compressor is running faster, I am guessing this could be a possibility that it worked fine on 50htz and pops a breaker at 60htz...that coupled with the fact that it is hotter now causing higher pressure (I think).

Has someone added freon?

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail

On May 23, 2016 12:04 PM, "derickgates@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

OK, I have checked the wiring of the adapter that goes from the Amel 230volt cable to the US 220 volt shore post, and it is appropriate, with no white wire, green/yellow to ground, brown wire to red, and blue wire to black.


I think it must be either the frequency (Hz) or the voltage 230 vs 220 that the aft unit is sensitive to, while the saloon and forward units are not.  I do not yet see an adjustment I can make to address the issue. Of the aft unit tripping the circuit breaker after a few minutes of running.

Derick
SM2K#400


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Climma AC issue

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Derick,

It is near impossible for us to remotely diagnose your problem. We have told you the most common problems that match your AC's symptoms. I suspect that something is causing the aft AC to pull more than 10 amps and that is what is tripping your breaker. Has someone added freon? Too much freon and pressure will cause this.

Do you know how many amps it is pulling when it trips? Probably not and probably the first thing an AC technician will check.

The AC will pop that breaker if the waterflow is insufficient, but I think that your AC saltwater is routed to the aft first, then salon and lastly the bow. So it is probably not popping the breaker for insufficient waterflow. But, have you checked the strainer in the sea chest and the line from the bottom of the sea chest to outside...this is a long shot, but....

It is probably time to call a Climma tech.

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail

On May 23, 2016 12:04 PM, "derickgates@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

OK, I have checked the wiring of the adapter that goes from the Amel 230volt cable to the US 220 volt shore post, and it is appropriate, with no white wire, green/yellow to ground, brown wire to red, and blue wire to black.


I think it must be either the frequency (Hz) or the voltage 230 vs 220 that the aft unit is sensitive to, while the saloon and forward units are not.  I do not yet see an adjustment I can make to address the issue. Of the aft unit tripping the circuit breaker after a few minutes of running.

Derick
SM2K#400


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Toilet base forward head

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Thanks for the info James !!!
Sincerely Alexandre



--------------------------------------------

On Mon, 5/9/16, Lokiyawl2 lokiyawl2@aol.com [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Toilet base forward head
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Monday, May 9, 2016, 3:33 PM


 









Alexandre,   Stainless bolts
into stainless plate tend to gawl and seize unfortunately.
 It's why most turnbuckles have bronze bodies and
stainless studs.  In the event that you actually remove the
plate consider replacing with silicon  bronze and you
won't have fight to remove the bolts in the future.
 The best source I know of is Atlas Metals for the bronze
plate.  If you keep the stainless plate, never seize does
help prevent problems.  Best of luck. James

Sent from Samsung
Mobile


-------- Original message --------
From: "Alexandre Uster von Baar
uster@rocketmail.com [amelyachtowners]"
<amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
Date: 05-09-2016 3:46 PM (GMT-04:00)
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Toilet base
forward head



 






Hello Mark,



But as Bill said mine and your model are older and use a
different base…

Nice repaid on your side!

How did you see/access the steel plate under the
fiberglass?

I still would like to remove the broken bolt and put a new
one!!!



Sincerely, Alexandre

SM2K #289 NIKIMAT

Club Nautico de San Juan, Puerto Rico



--------------------------------------------

On Mon, 5/9/16, 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@gmail.com
[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
wrote:



Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Toilet base forward head

To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com

Date: Monday, May 9, 2016, 1:38 PM





 



















Eric,

 Alexandre is correct. Jabsco changed

the design of the part and did not change the part number.
I

searched high and low for an old style base and am
convinced

none are available.

 I had the same issue with the

cracking bases. I removed the old base and used
fiberglass

mat and resin to repair it. So far so good. Both bases

cracked. The older repair is now going on two years
(aft).

The forward head was recently repaired.

 To remove the base you will need to

back out the four bolts holding it. There are no nuts on
the

underside. Under the fiberglass floor is a stainless
steel

plate and the bolts go into threaded holes into this
plate.

 Be careful not to force the bolts!!!!

They will break (ask me how I know this). Use some lube
and

be VERY patient.

 Hope this helps.

     With best

regards,  Mark  Super Maramu

2000Hull

#275www.creampuff.usCurrently

cruising:  Cambridge Cay – Exuma Land and Sea Park -

Bahamas

 From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com

[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com]

Sent: Monday, May 09, 2016 9:54 AM

To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com

Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Toilet

base forward head    Good morning Eric,



I had the same problem (base

cracked).

I was able to unscrew the nuts

off the bolts (the bolt seems to me part of the
fiberglass

bottom and unfortunately I broke one)

The

main problem is that I was not able to find a
replacement

base… The exact part number is now a different base
which

will not fit…

So I glue the old one

together and apply it with 4200.

Hope

someone get a better answer…



Sincerely, Alexandre

SM2K #289

NIKIMAT

Club Nautico de San Juan, Puerto

Rico



--------------------------------------------

On Fri, 5/6/16, kimberlite@optonline.net

[amelyachtowners]
<amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>

wrote:



Subject: [Amel Yacht

Owners] Toilet base forward head

To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com

Date: Friday, May 6, 2016, 4:31 PM





 



















The base of the toilet of my forward head is

cracked.

I would like to

replace it but it

seems to be through bolted

and

I do not see

any access.

Does anyone know how to access the bolts or are

they

set in some material to

hold them in

place?

Fair

Winds

Eric SM 376 Kimberlite



 

 




























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#yiv3858933945 .yiv3858933945attach {
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0;width:400px;}

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#yiv3858933945 .yiv3858933945attach label {
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font-family:Verdana;font-weight:700;}

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#yiv3858933945 dd.yiv3858933945last p
span.yiv3858933945yshortcuts {
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text-decoration:none;}

#yiv3858933945 div.yiv3858933945attach-table {
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#yiv3858933945 div#yiv3858933945ygrp-mlmsg
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#yiv3858933945 o {
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float:left;width:72px;}

#yiv3858933945 #yiv3858933945photos div div {
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#666666;height:62px;overflow:hidden;width:62px;}

#yiv3858933945 #yiv3858933945photos div label {
color:#666666;font-size:10px;overflow:hidden;text-align:center;white-space:nowrap;width:64px;}

#yiv3858933945 #yiv3858933945reco-category {
font-size:77%;}

#yiv3858933945 #yiv3858933945reco-desc {
font-size:77%;}

#yiv3858933945 .yiv3858933945replbq {
margin:4px;}

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sans-serif;}

#yiv3858933945 #yiv3858933945ygrp-mlmsg table {
font-size:inherit;font:100%;}

#yiv3858933945 #yiv3858933945ygrp-mlmsg select,
#yiv3858933945 input, #yiv3858933945 textarea {
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code {
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font-family:Verdana;}

#yiv3858933945 #yiv3858933945ygrp-msg
p#yiv3858933945attach-count span {
color:#1E66AE;font-weight:700;}

#yiv3858933945 #yiv3858933945ygrp-reco
#yiv3858933945reco-head {
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#yiv3858933945 #yiv3858933945ygrp-reco {
margin-bottom:20px;padding:0px;}

#yiv3858933945 #yiv3858933945ygrp-sponsor #yiv3858933945ov
li a {
font-size:130%;text-decoration:none;}

#yiv3858933945 #yiv3858933945ygrp-sponsor #yiv3858933945ov
li {
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#yiv3858933945 #yiv3858933945ygrp-sponsor #yiv3858933945ov
ul {
margin:0;padding:0 0 0 8px;}

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font-family:Georgia;}

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#yiv3858933945 #yiv3858933945ygrp-vital ul li:last-child {
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}
#yiv3858933945