Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] installation of dive compressor + dive tanks position

scentstone
 

Hi Alexandre,

Thanks a lot for your very extensive and precise report about the Bauer install (and all of the reports about Nikimat ;-).   I'm currently making it following your useful pictures and drawings.

Please, would you mind to help me to clarify an additional point regarding the dive tanks :
- the picture let see on the stern part of the lazarette  a custom box for the tanks and I intended to make something similar. Unfortunately when I take measurements, the maximum height here is 57 cm. A 12l short design tank measure 65 cm with "hose". 
- is it possible for you or an other member to tell me which tank you're used to install here and perhaps give more details about the fixing systems they use.

King regards

Fred
ScentStone SM2K # 
 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Volvo TMD22 engine mounts

Mike Ondra
 

Sorry, pressed send too quickly. This was from

Mike Ondra

Aletes SM#240 Rock Hall, MD

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, June 04, 2016 5:16 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Volvo TMD22 engine mounts

 

 

QUESTIONS

We notice that the engine is quite stationary trough wide RPM range when transmission not engaged. When moving under power, the engine/c-drive assembly vibration/oscillation seems to be in the neighborhood of 1/8". The motion is visible, but no vibration transmits to the vessel. Is this typical, or an indication of poor alignment of the engine/c-drive? Or other cause. Or is the well balance power train perfectly stationary when motoring? 

 

THE REST OF THE STORY

As a follow up to this posting we did purchase new engine mounts from Jamestown Distributors in Bristol, RI. $168 ea. identical to the original VETUS-MITSTEUN. The installation went well following the aggregated advice of many on the BB. Pat (Shenanigans) provided a 4x4 to span between the cockpit coamings and a come-along made the engine lift easy. We found we had to unbolt the engine from the frame (4 bolts) to slide it aft far enough (1/2") to disconnect the bolts between the coupling and the transmission output shaft flange. Then raised the engine about 3".

After disconnecting the 4 bolts supporting the C-drive to its frame, the entire frame assembly could be easily lifted off the 4 bad engine mounts for removal. We had no bolts seized or difficult to remove. No wires were disconnected and the only hose requiring removal was the seawater feeding the transmission heat exchanger. (that hose was replaced with black exhaust hose 1-1/4" which fit perfectly on both ends. Our marina indicated that the OEM plastic hose is no longer rated for below waterline.)

There seemed to be little opportunity in the reassembly process for re-alignment horizontally. the only slotted holes being in those in the engine mounts and the amount was minimal, a couple mm. Vertically we attempted to place the leveling nuts on the replacement mounts exactly where there were on the old measuring from the top down as the old were now variably slightly shorter (perhaps compression over time).

The bushings on the Vetus coupling were completely worn through on one side resulting in a metal to metal contact and a bit of metal wear. We inserted new bushings.

Everything was reassembled all bolts/nuts slightly loose. The engine slid forward and after loosely bolting to the coupling, alignment looked pretty good, not technically measured. The coupling bolts were tightened. With all other bolts loose, we started the engine and engaged the transmission briefly forward and aft under the theory with the bolts loose that the assembly would "settle in". And it did seem to. Again the alignment looked OK. At that point all bolts were tightened. We did not do a precision feeler gauge test nor did we adjust the leveling nuts.  Total job about 6 hours with 2 of us.

 

Anyway the new mounts and coupling bushings took care of our knocking sound as well as a generally reduced vibration and engine noise.

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Volvo TMD22 engine mounts

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

It worked.

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail

On Jun 4, 2016 4:35 PM, "mdondra@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

test



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Volvo TMD22 engine mounts

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi, I like your practical style. Well done
Danny
SM 299 Ocean Pearl
Currently Opua NZ preparing for Fiji


From: "mdondra@... [amelyachtowners]"
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Sunday, 5 June 2016 9:15 AM
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Volvo TMD22 engine mounts

 
QUESTIONS
We notice that the engine is quite stationary trough wide RPM range when transmission not engaged. When moving under power, the engine/c-drive assembly vibration/oscillation seems to be in the neighborhood of 1/8". The motion is visible, but no vibration transmits to the vessel. Is this typical, or an indication of poor alignment of the engine/c-drive? Or other cause. Or is the well balance power train perfectly stationary when motoring? 

THE REST OF THE STORY
As a follow up to this posting we did purchase new engine mounts from Jamestown Distributors in Bristol, RI. $168 ea. identical to the original VETUS-MITSTEUN. The installation went well following the aggregated advice of many on the BB. Pat (Shenanigans) provided a 4x4 to span between the cockpit coamings and a come-along made the engine lift easy. We found we had to unbolt the engine from the frame (4 bolts) to slide it aft far enough (1/2") to disconnect the bolts between the coupling and the transmission output shaft flange. Then raised the engine about 3".
After disconnecting the 4 bolts supporting the C-drive to its frame, the entire frame assembly could be easily lifted off the 4 bad engine mounts for removal. We had no bolts seized or difficult to remove. No wires were disconnected and the only hose requiring removal was the seawater feeding the transmission heat exchanger. (that hose was replaced with black exhaust hose 1-1/4" which fit perfectly on both ends. Our marina indicated that the OEM plastic hose is no longer rated for below waterline.)
There seemed to be little opportunity in the reassembly process for re-alignment horizontally. the only slotted holes being in those in the engine mounts and the amount was minimal, a couple mm. Vertically we attempted to place the leveling nuts on the replacement mounts exactly where there were on the old measuring from the top down as the old were now variably slightly shorter (perhaps compression over time).
The bushings on the Vetus coupling were completely worn through on one side resulting in a metal to metal contact and a bit of metal wear. We inserted new bushings.
Everything was reassembled all bolts/nuts slightly loose. The engine slid forward and after loosely bolting to the coupling, alignment looked pretty good, not technically measured. The coupling bolts were tightened. With all other bolts loose, we started the engine and engaged the transmission briefly forward and aft under the theory with the bolts loose that the assembly would "settle in". And it did seem to. Again the alignment looked OK. At that point all bolts were tightened. We did not do a precision feeler gauge test nor did we adjust the leveling nuts.  Total job about 6 hours with 2 of us.

Anyway the new mounts and coupling bushings took care of our knocking sound as well as a generally reduced vibration and engine noise.




Re: Volvo TMD22 engine mounts

Mike Ondra
 

QUESTIONS

We notice that the engine is quite stationary trough wide RPM range when transmission not engaged. When moving under power, the engine/c-drive assembly vibration/oscillation seems to be in the neighborhood of 1/8". The motion is visible, but no vibration transmits to the vessel. Is this typical, or an indication of poor alignment of the engine/c-drive? Or other cause. Or is the well balance power train perfectly stationary when motoring? 


THE REST OF THE STORY

As a follow up to this posting we did purchase new engine mounts from Jamestown Distributors in Bristol, RI. $168 ea. identical to the original VETUS-MITSTEUN. The installation went well following the aggregated advice of many on the BB. Pat (Shenanigans) provided a 4x4 to span between the cockpit coamings and a come-along made the engine lift easy. We found we had to unbolt the engine from the frame (4 bolts) to slide it aft far enough (1/2") to disconnect the bolts between the coupling and the transmission output shaft flange. Then raised the engine about 3".

After disconnecting the 4 bolts supporting the C-drive to its frame, the entire frame assembly could be easily lifted off the 4 bad engine mounts for removal. We had no bolts seized or difficult to remove. No wires were disconnected and the only hose requiring removal was the seawater feeding the transmission heat exchanger. (that hose was replaced with black exhaust hose 1-1/4" which fit perfectly on both ends. Our marina indicated that the OEM plastic hose is no longer rated for below waterline.)

There seemed to be little opportunity in the reassembly process for re-alignment horizontally. the only slotted holes being in those in the engine mounts and the amount was minimal, a couple mm. Vertically we attempted to place the leveling nuts on the replacement mounts exactly where there were on the old measuring from the top down as the old were now variably slightly shorter (perhaps compression over time).

The bushings on the Vetus coupling were completely worn through on one side resulting in a metal to metal contact and a bit of metal wear. We inserted new bushings.

Everything was reassembled all bolts/nuts slightly loose. The engine slid forward and after loosely bolting to the coupling, alignment looked pretty good, not technically measured. The coupling bolts were tightened. With all other bolts loose, we started the engine and engaged the transmission briefly forward and aft under the theory with the bolts loose that the assembly would "settle in". And it did seem to. Again the alignment looked OK. At that point all bolts were tightened. We did not do a precision feeler gauge test nor did we adjust the leveling nuts.  Total job about 6 hours with 2 of us.


Anyway the new mounts and coupling bushings took care of our knocking sound as well as a generally reduced vibration and engine noise.



Re: Volvo TMD22 engine mounts

Mike Ondra
 

test



Re: C Drive Mounts

Craig Briggs
 

Thanks, Will.  Those look identical to the Metalastik Cushyfloat mounts on my C drive. The HY150, being Vetus' load rating of 150kg, matches the Metalastic 45 rating. That is 150 kg for installations with no thrust forces, as is the case with our C drive, so my full spec, I'm now sure, is 17 1609 45, and they most certainly are interchangable with the Vetus brand.
Cheers, Craig, SN68 Sangaris, Ft Lauderdale

---In amelyachtowners@..., <tango708@...> wrote :
On my SM they are Vetus HY150.

Will
Anni Bea True
At anchor in Annapolis

---In amelyachtowners@..., <sangaris@...> wrote :

Does anyone know the model number for the Metalastik Cushyfloat mounts on the C drive. I can just barely make out, I think, 17  1609, which is the medium Cushyfloat.  There is a further two digit number for the weight rating that I can not make out. It would be 45, 55, 65, or 75. I believe the same mount was used for SN's and SM's.

Thanks,

Craig Briggs, SN#68 Sangaris


[Amel Yacht Owners] Super Maramu on Formula 1 web site !!!

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

As a fan of Formula 1, I look at the Daniel Ricardo interview (in Monaro) and you can see a Super Maramu at the marina !!!

Here is the direct link:
http://www.formula1.com/content/fom-website/en/video.html
Video of the 3rd of June (2016)

Somebody from the forum?

Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Club Nautico de San Juan, Puerto Rico


Re: C Drive Mounts

tango708@...
 

On my SM they are Vetus HY150.

Will
Anni Bea True
At anchor in Annapolis


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Lofrans anchor winch

Alan Leslie
 

Much smaller tube, there is not much space in there.
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Lofrans anchor winch

karkauai
 

Merci beaucoup!
Kent

On Jun 3, 2016, at 11:37 AM, Jean-Pierre Germain jgermain@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Yep. Smaller tube. 

Jean-Pierre
Eleuthera SM 007


On 3 Jun 2016, at 16:08, Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

I have a hand pump with a 7mm OD suction tube.  I've tried threading it down into the windlass and can't get it to the oil.  What is the trick?  Smaller tube?
Thanks
Kent


On Jun 3, 2016, at 9:41 AM, Germain Jean-Pierre jgermain@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Ian,


I use a Pela Pump.  I chose the 6 liter size.  

Biggest benefit is that it sucks all the oil out of genset and engine as I leave it in the sump overnight.  Will suck out the oil from your Lofrans too. Works good to remove foam from the C drive oil tank when the seals are no longer ..new.  

Also sucks water out of inaccessible places as the tubes are about 4 MM and can snake into some quite small spots.

GL

Jean-Pierre Germain,
SY Eleuthera, Amel Super Maramu 007


On 3 Jun 2016, at 12:32, ianjudyjenkins@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Alan,  Thanks. Trying to extract the old oil with a pump is an interesting game !

 Ian and Judy, Pen Azen SM 302 Ithaca




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] New size for Bow Thruster seal

VLADIMIR SONSEV
 

Thanks a lot for this information.

On Jun 2, 2016 10:06 AM, "Alexandre Uster von Baar uster@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Interesting change on the seal size for the bow thruster…

2 weeks ago, I received many spare parts from Amel (La Rochelle), as I was labelling them I noted that the seal on the tufnol shaft bow thruster was 29 x 42 x 8.

Thinking it was an error, I contacted Maud which just confirm that they have modified a little the diameters of the seal so that they are more water tight.
Before it was 30 x 42 x 8 now it is 29 x 42 x 8 she added you won’t be able to put them by hand, but will need to grease and use a tool “emporte piece” in french (I personally used PVC pipe).

Glad to see they keep improving their system: the seal, then previous as Bill mention the oil viscosity, etc.

Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Club Nautico de San Juan, Puerto Rico


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Onan generator

eric freedman
 

The twilight zone--

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Friday, June 03, 2016 6:38 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Onan generator

 

 


Hi Alexadre, Thank you--your email has arrived , hopefully it has now broken the log jam. Nothing in my spam , something of a mystery.

Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302, Itahca
________________________________________
From: amelyachtowners@... <amelyachtowners@...> on behalf of Alexandre Uster von Baar uster@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: 03 June 2016 10:20:30
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Onan generator

Good morning Ian,

I have suspected something similar, that some reader did not see my reply, because they were going to the spam box.
So make sure you check your spam box.

Alexandre

--------------------------------------------
On Fri, 6/3/16, ianjudyjenkins@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Onan generator
To: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Friday, June 3, 2016, 5:10 AM

Bill, Thank you, as ever. For
some weird reason which I cannot yet fathom I can still send
but have stopped receiving emails from this website and
have only read your response after going onto the main
website and searching through June's
emails.
If anyone
knows how to fix my email problem that would also be very
useful!
Ian and Judy,
Pen Azen, SM 302, Ithaca

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------------------------------------
Posted by: Alexandre Uster von Baar <uster@...>
------------------------------------

------------------------------------

Yahoo Groups Links


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: correct installation of a new charger

rossienio@...
 

Thanks Olivier, I' ll do what you tell me. Question : AC earth are (on the Santorin)  the yellow-green wires that are connected on the engine? Those of the bonding system? Regards Enio 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Lofrans anchor winch

Jean-Pierre Germain <jgermain@...>
 

Yep. Smaller tube. 

Jean-Pierre
Eleuthera SM 007


On 3 Jun 2016, at 16:08, Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

I have a hand pump with a 7mm OD suction tube.  I've tried threading it down into the windlass and can't get it to the oil.  What is the trick?  Smaller tube?
Thanks
Kent


On Jun 3, 2016, at 9:41 AM, Germain Jean-Pierre jgermain@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Ian,


I use a Pela Pump.  I chose the 6 liter size.  

Biggest benefit is that it sucks all the oil out of genset and engine as I leave it in the sump overnight.  Will suck out the oil from your Lofrans too. Works good to remove foam from the C drive oil tank when the seals are no longer ..new.  

Also sucks water out of inaccessible places as the tubes are about 4 MM and can snake into some quite small spots.

GL

Jean-Pierre Germain,
SY Eleuthera, Amel Super Maramu 007


On 3 Jun 2016, at 12:32, ianjudyjenkins@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Alan,  Thanks. Trying to extract the old oil with a pump is an interesting game !

 Ian and Judy, Pen Azen SM 302 Ithaca




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Lofrans anchor winch

James Alton
 

JPG,
   This sounds like a really useful pump to aboard.  I will look into ordering one.  James


Sent from Samsung Mobile



-------- Original message --------
From: "Germain Jean-Pierre jgermain@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...>
Date: 06-03-2016 10:41 AM (GMT-04:00)
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Lofrans anchor winch


 

Hi Ian,


I use a Pela Pump.  I chose the 6 liter size.  

Biggest benefit is that it sucks all the oil out of genset and engine as I leave it in the sump overnight.  Will suck out the oil from your Lofrans too. Works good to remove foam from the C drive oil tank when the seals are no longer ..new.  

Also sucks water out of inaccessible places as the tubes are about 4 MM and can snake into some quite small spots.

GL

Jean-Pierre Germain,
SY Eleuthera, Amel Super Maramu 007


On 3 Jun 2016, at 12:32, ianjudyjenkins@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Alan,  Thanks. Trying to extract the old oil with a pump is an interesting game !

 Ian and Judy, Pen Azen SM 302 Ithaca




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Lofrans anchor winch

ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 

Merci, Jean-Pierre,        That sounds like a useful bit of kit. I must now decide what to leave ashore to make space for it ! 
Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302 Ithaca


On 3 Jun 2016, at 16:42, Germain Jean-Pierre jgermain@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Hi Ian,

I use a Pela Pump.  I chose the 6 liter size.  

Biggest benefit is that it sucks all the oil out of genset and engine as I leave it in the sump overnight.  Will suck out the oil from your Lofrans too. Works good to remove foam from the C drive oil tank when the seals are no longer ..new.  

Also sucks water out of inaccessible places as the tubes are about 4 MM and can snake into some quite small spots.

GL

Jean-Pierre Germain,
SY Eleuthera, Amel Super Maramu 007


On 3 Jun 2016, at 12:32, ianjudyjenkins@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Alan,  Thanks. Trying to extract the old oil with a pump is an interesting game !

 Ian and Judy, Pen Azen SM 302 Ithaca




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Lofrans anchor winch

karkauai
 

I have a hand pump with a 7mm OD suction tube.  I've tried threading it down into the windlass and can't get it to the oil.  What is the trick?  Smaller tube?
Thanks
Kent


On Jun 3, 2016, at 9:41 AM, Germain Jean-Pierre jgermain@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Ian,


I use a Pela Pump.  I chose the 6 liter size.  

Biggest benefit is that it sucks all the oil out of genset and engine as I leave it in the sump overnight.  Will suck out the oil from your Lofrans too. Works good to remove foam from the C drive oil tank when the seals are no longer ..new.  

Also sucks water out of inaccessible places as the tubes are about 4 MM and can snake into some quite small spots.

GL

Jean-Pierre Germain,
SY Eleuthera, Amel Super Maramu 007


On 3 Jun 2016, at 12:32, ianjudyjenkins@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Alan,  Thanks. Trying to extract the old oil with a pump is an interesting game !

 Ian and Judy, Pen Azen SM 302 Ithaca




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Lofrans anchor winch

Germain Jean-Pierre <jgermain@...>
 

Hi Ian,

I use a Pela Pump.  I chose the 6 liter size.  

Biggest benefit is that it sucks all the oil out of genset and engine as I leave it in the sump overnight.  Will suck out the oil from your Lofrans too. Works good to remove foam from the C drive oil tank when the seals are no longer ..new.  

Also sucks water out of inaccessible places as the tubes are about 4 MM and can snake into some quite small spots.

GL

Jean-Pierre Germain,
SY Eleuthera, Amel Super Maramu 007


On 3 Jun 2016, at 12:32, ianjudyjenkins@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Alan,  Thanks. Trying to extract the old oil with a pump is an interesting game !

 Ian and Judy, Pen Azen SM 302 Ithaca




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: correct installation of a new charger

Beaute Olivier
 

Hello Enio,

first connect the batteries cables to the charger (12V positive and negative). Then connect the 230V charger's cable (230V LIVE, NEUTRAL and EARTH) to the dedicated breaker at the 230V panel in galley.
Check that the charger works (look at the battery monitor for volts and amps).
While the charger is charging, check that the charger's body is connected to the AC earth (measure the resistance which should be 0.0 ohm). If the resistance is high or infinite, you should connect the charger's body to the AC earth.
Then, check the DC voltage between the batteries negative and the charger's body, then between the batteries positive and the charger's body. Both should be 0 volt. If you find a voltage there, don't install this charger.

Have a good day.


On Friday, June 3, 2016 2:34 PM, "rossienio@... [amelyachtowners]" wrote:


 
Hello Olivier and all. Thank you for your answer. My boat is the Santorin no.122.The new charger is Sterling pro-charge N. This replaces the original TECSUP of AMEL. I do not know if this new charger should have the carcass to the ground connection, or not. And if so where I would connect the ground screw?? Sorry, but I do not remember if and where it was connected the TECSUP.Regards.