Date   

Re: Amel 54 how to chenge bow thruster oil

ya_fohi
 

Thanks for the advice Craig. I wonder if anyone on this forum has actually changed the oil before by filling from the top?
Paul


Re: Amel 54 how to chenge bow thruster oil

Craig Briggs
 

Paul,
It sounds like filling from the top would work although the yard guys may have a point about filling from the bottom drain hole like an outboard lower unit to avoid air pockets. Any chandlery will have a very inexpensive manual pump they sell with the gear oil, if that would fit.
Craig SN#68 Sangaris 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Mizzen Roller Reefing

VLADIMIR SONSEV
 

Thanks a lot!!

On Jun 10, 2016 10:58 PM, "derickgates@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Vladimir,


Done!

Derick


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Amel 54 how to chenge bow thruster oil

Germain Jean-Pierre <jgermain@...>
 

Paul,

Instead of draining it out, consider sucking it out with a Pella pump… has all sorts of other uses on the boat too.

Cheers,


Jean-Pierre Germain
SY Eleuthera, SM 007


On 11 Jun 2016, at 13:13, sharongbrown@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Thanks for all the replies - I didn't expect this would generate so much interest!

I do have a drain plug at the bottom. This is just routine maintenance - the unit is working perfectly. I just wanted to know if it was really necessary to pump the new oil in from the bottom as the last time this was done the boatyard insisted that is was necessary to avoid getting trapped air in it. I don't have any equipment to do this. I'm convinced however that as long as I keep the drain open when refilling from the top there should be no trapped air and I can close the drain as soon as the new oil starts to come out. This is my theory anyway!
Paul


Jean-Pierre Germain,
SY Eleuthera, Amel Super Maramu 007
Porto Turistico Marina di Ragusa, Pontoon M15,
97100 Ragusa, Sicily, Italy
+44 7551 211 511
jp.germain@...


Re: Amel 54 how to chenge bow thruster oil

ya_fohi
 

Thanks for all the replies - I didn't expect this would generate so much interest!

I do have a drain plug at the bottom. This is just routine maintenance - the unit is working perfectly. I just wanted to know if it was really necessary to pump the new oil in from the bottom as the last time this was done the boatyard insisted that is was necessary to avoid getting trapped air in it. I don't have any equipment to do this. I'm convinced however that as long as I keep the drain open when refilling from the top there should be no trapped air and I can close the drain as soon as the new oil starts to come out. This is my theory anyway!
Paul


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] B&G Depth Transducer

seagasm@...
 

Sorry for the delay with my reply Bill, some idiot during a previous ownership put a join inside my bow rail nav lights wiring and it shorted out, rewire was necessary, all good now. I am not going to risk withdrawing the transducer, I have a very dry boat and I do not want to risk water gushing inside. I do agree, I have not heard of any failures, guess a dip in the tide will be necessary, thank you all the same.

Kind Regards
Barry & Robyn
Tradewinds III SM 171


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Mizzen Roller Reefing

Derick Gates
 

Vladimir,

Done!

Derick


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Amel 54 how to chenge bow thruster oil

Beaute Olivier
 

Hello Paul and everyone who wants to know more about the AMEL 54,

The bow-thruster of the AMEL 54 is an AMEL design built on a SLEIPNER SIDE POWER basis. AMEL makes it retractable. It has two props with 4 and then 5 (later models) blades each, more protected than on a Santorin/SM...

Paul, depending on your hull number, there is a drain plug at the bottom of the bow-thruster gear-box. The oil drains very slowly and you can fill it from the top oil container (very slow too, warm up the oil in the sun before you put it in the container).
The last AMEL 54 have a bow-thruster with a non-drainable gear-box. The unit is said to be "lubricated for life" by Sleipner. However, if you remove the lip-seals at the prop-shafts, the oil will drain, and you will need to put new oil from the top of the drive shaft tube (just like on a Santorin or SM).
Paul, can you tell your hull number?

Cheers.

Olivier


On Friday, June 10, 2016 8:24 PM, "Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners]" wrote:


 
OK , thanks, Bill.


On Jun 10, 2016, at 11:47 AM, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 
Kent,
All Amels beginning with 54 production utilize an "off-the-shelf bow thruster rather than the proprietary Amel bow thruster which ended with the last Super Maramu.
Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail
On Jun 10, 2016 11:14 AM, "Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 
Oh, oops!  Didn't realize the 54 BT was significantly different from the SM.  I'd like to know the differences and why they changed the design.

Thanks, Bill.  Guess I shouldn't assume too much, eh?
Kent


On Jun 10, 2016, at 11:01 AM, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 
Kent,
He is talking about the 54 bow thruster which is entirely different than your SM bow thruster.
Sadly 54 owners do not post very many maintenance procedures in this forum. My recommendation is to communicate with SAV "at"Amel.fr
Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail
On Jun 10, 2016 10:56 AM, "Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 
I'm not aware of any lower drain for the bow thruster, so I'm guessing you're talking about the CDrive oil.  Since you have access to the drain plug, I also assume you are on the hard.  Are you doing routine maintenance, or do you have water in the oil?  If it has been a couple of years you should change the prop shaft seals, too.

Drain the oil from the lower plug (it's best if you have something set up to keep the oil from draining all over the paint.  If you do a search you should find a thread about this that describes a threaded pipe that goes into the drain hole.
After the oil has drained out, through the drain hole, suck out what oil is left in the bottom of the lower unit with a pump with small tube on the suction side of the pump.  If your oil is milky, flush with some cheap oil a time or two (turning the p rop several times) until it comes out clean.  When you replace the plug, use a new oring.

For the Bow Thruster:
I assume the 54 bow thruster works the same as the SM, Paul.  Remove the lower unit, turn it upside down to drain the oil.  If it is milky, put a solvent in (like mineral spirits), turn the prop a few times, and pour it out, repeat until it is coming out clean.  Either wait til the solvent dries (like over night), or I put some acetone in, slosh it around a little and pour it out. After an hour it should have evaporated.  Then replace the oil, and reinstall the lower unit.

There is a good explanation of all of this in the files section.  Read that before you proceed, and follow those instructions carefully.  It's not rocket science, but eliminating steps, or ori enting seals improperly will give you a less than optimal result.  If someone sucked your oil out, they don't understand your boat.

Hope this will get you started.  If I totally misread your question, try again.
Kent
SM243
Kristy
Currently Bonaire 






On Jun 10, 2016, at 8:49 AM, sharongbrown@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 
Hi, I need to change my bow thruster oil. When this was last done they pumped the oil up from the bottom. Is this really necessary? Would it be possible to simply drain the oil, then fill from the top until the new oil starts to drain from the bottom before closing the outlet?
Thanks
Paul
Amel 54 Ya Fohi




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Amel 54 how to chenge bow thruster oil

karkauai
 

OK , thanks, Bill.


On Jun 10, 2016, at 11:47 AM, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Kent,

All Amels beginning with 54 production utilize an "off-the-shelf bow thruster rather than the proprietary Amel bow thruster which ended with the last Super Maramu.

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail

On Jun 10, 2016 11:14 AM, "Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Oh, oops!  Didn't realize the 54 BT was significantly different from the SM.  I'd like to know the differences and why they changed the design.

Thanks, Bill.  Guess I shouldn't assume too much, eh?
Kent


On Jun 10, 2016, at 11:01 AM, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Kent,

He is talking about the 54 bow thruster which is entirely different than your SM bow thruster.

Sadly 54 owners do not post very many maintenance procedures in this forum. My recommendation is to communicate with SAV "at"Amel.fr

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail

On Jun 10, 2016 10:56 AM, "Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

I'm not aware of any lower drain for the bow thruster, so I'm guessing you're talking about the CDrive oil.  Since you have access to the drain plug, I also assume you are on the hard.  Are you doing routine maintenance, or do you have water in the oil?  If it has been a couple of years you should change the prop shaft seals, too.

Drain the oil from the lower plug (it's best if you have something set up to keep the oil from draining all over the paint.  If you do a search you should find a thread about this that describes a threaded pipe that goes into the drain hole.
After the oil has drained out, through the drain hole, suck out what oil is left in the bottom of the lower unit with a pump with small tube on the suction side of the pump.  If your oil is milky, flush with some cheap oil a time or two (turning the p rop several times) until it comes out clean.  When you replace the plug, use a new oring.

For the Bow Thruster:
I assume the 54 bow thruster works the same as the SM, Paul.  Remove the lower unit, turn it upside down to drain the oil.  If it is milky, put a solvent in (like mineral spirits), turn the prop a few times, and pour it out, repeat until it is coming out clean.  Either wait til the solvent dries (like over night), or I put some acetone in, slosh it around a little and pour it out. After an hour it should have evaporated.  Then replace the oil, and reinstall the lower unit.

There is a good explanation of all of this in the files section.  Read that before you proceed, and follow those instructions carefully.  It's not rocket science, but eliminating steps, or ori enting seals improperly will give you a less than optimal result.  If someone sucked your oil out, they don't understand your boat.

Hope this will get you started.  If I totally misread your question, try again.
Kent
SM243
Kristy
Currently Bonaire 






On Jun 10, 2016, at 8:49 AM, sharongbrown@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi, I need to change my bow thruster oil. When this was last done they pumped the oil up from the bottom. Is this really necessary? Would it be possible to simply drain the oil, then fill from the top until the new oil starts to drain from the bottom before closing the outlet?
Thanks
Paul
Amel 54 Ya Fohi



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Amel 54 how to chenge bow thruster oil

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Kent,

All Amels beginning with 54 production utilize an "off-the-shelf bow thruster rather than the proprietary Amel bow thruster which ended with the last Super Maramu.

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail

On Jun 10, 2016 11:14 AM, "Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Oh, oops!  Didn't realize the 54 BT was significantly different from the SM.  I'd like to know the differences and why they changed the design.

Thanks, Bill.  Guess I shouldn't assume too much, eh?
Kent


On Jun 10, 2016, at 11:01 AM, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Kent,

He is talking about the 54 bow thruster which is entirely different than your SM bow thruster.

Sadly 54 owners do not post very many maintenance procedures in this forum. My recommendation is to communicate with SAV "at"Amel.fr

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail

On Jun 10, 2016 10:56 AM, "Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

I'm not aware of any lower drain for the bow thruster, so I'm guessing you're talking about the CDrive oil.  Since you have access to the drain plug, I also assume you are on the hard.  Are you doing routine maintenance, or do you have water in the oil?  If it has been a couple of years you should change the prop shaft seals, too.

Drain the oil from the lower plug (it's best if you have something set up to keep the oil from draining all over the paint.  If you do a search you should find a thread about this that describes a threaded pipe that goes into the drain hole.
After the oil has drained out, through the drain hole, suck out what oil is left in the bottom of the lower unit with a pump with small tube on the suction side of the pump.  If your oil is milky, flush with some cheap oil a time or two (turning the p rop several times) until it comes out clean.  When you replace the plug, use a new oring.

For the Bow Thruster:
I assume the 54 bow thruster works the same as the SM, Paul.  Remove the lower unit, turn it upside down to drain the oil.  If it is milky, put a solvent in (like mineral spirits), turn the prop a few times, and pour it out, repeat until it is coming out clean.  Either wait til the solvent dries (like over night), or I put some acetone in, slosh it around a little and pour it out. After an hour it should have evaporated.  Then replace the oil, and reinstall the lower unit.

There is a good explanation of all of this in the files section.  Read that before you proceed, and follow those instructions carefully.  It's not rocket science, but eliminating steps, or ori enting seals improperly will give you a less than optimal result.  If someone sucked your oil out, they don't understand your boat.

Hope this will get you started.  If I totally misread your question, try again.
Kent
SM243
Kristy
Currently Bonaire 






On Jun 10, 2016, at 8:49 AM, sharongbrown@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi, I need to change my bow thruster oil. When this was last done they pumped the oil up from the bottom. Is this really necessary? Would it be possible to simply drain the oil, then fill from the top until the new oil starts to drain from the bottom before closing the outlet?
Thanks
Paul
Amel 54 Ya Fohi



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Amel 54 how to chenge bow thruster oil

antonio scipioni
 

Hi Paul, 
I don't know IF 54 has The same bow trust mounted on my Santorin.
But IF it is, probably you have water inside cause the o-ring or joint permit to the water come inside and to the oil come up.
It was happened in my boat. 
Br
Antonio
SN VAGABUNDO 108 come back in the water in Rome 

Inviato da iPhone

Il giorno 10/giu/2016, alle ore 14:49, sharongbrown@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> ha scritto:

 

Hi, I need to change my bow thruster oil. When this was last done they pumped the oil up from the bottom. Is this really necessary? Would it be possible to simply drain the oil, then fill from the top until the new oil starts to drain from the bottom before closing the outlet?
Thanks
Paul
Amel 54 Ya Fohi



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Amel 54 how to chenge bow thruster oil

karkauai
 

Oh, oops!  Didn't realize the 54 BT was significantly different from the SM.  I'd like to know the differences and why they changed the design.

Thanks, Bill.  Guess I shouldn't assume too much, eh?
Kent


On Jun 10, 2016, at 11:01 AM, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Kent,

He is talking about the 54 bow thruster which is entirely different than your SM bow thruster.

Sadly 54 owners do not post very many maintenance procedures in this forum. My recommendation is to communicate with SAV "at"Amel.fr

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail

On Jun 10, 2016 10:56 AM, "Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

I'm not aware of any lower drain for the bow thruster, so I'm guessing you're talking about the CDrive oil.  Since you have access to the drain plug, I also assume you are on the hard.  Are you doing routine maintenance, or do you have water in the oil?  If it has been a couple of years you should change the prop shaft seals, too.

Drain the oil from the lower plug (it's best if you have something set up to keep the oil from draining all over the paint.  If you do a search you should find a thread about this that describes a threaded pipe that goes into the drain hole.
After the oil has drained out, through the drain hole, suck out what oil is left in the bottom of the lower unit with a pump with small tube on the suction side of the pump.  If your oil is milky, flush with some cheap oil a time or two (turning the p rop several times) until it comes out clean.  When you replace the plug, use a new oring.

For the Bow Thruster:
I assume the 54 bow thruster works the same as the SM, Paul.  Remove the lower unit, turn it upside down to drain the oil.  If it is milky, put a solvent in (like mineral spirits), turn the prop a few times, and pour it out, repeat until it is coming out clean.  Either wait til the solvent dries (like over night), or I put some acetone in, slosh it around a little and pour it out. After an hour it should have evaporated.  Then replace the oil, and reinstall the lower unit.

There is a good explanation of all of this in the files section.  Read that before you proceed, and follow those instructions carefully.  It's not rocket science, but eliminating steps, or ori enting seals improperly will give you a less than optimal result.  If someone sucked your oil out, they don't understand your boat.

Hope this will get you started.  If I totally misread your question, try again.
Kent
SM243
Kristy
Currently Bonaire 






On Jun 10, 2016, at 8:49 AM, sharongbrown@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi, I need to change my bow thruster oil. When this was last done they pumped the oil up from the bottom. Is this really necessary? Would it be possible to simply drain the oil, then fill from the top until the new oil starts to drain from the bottom before closing the outlet?
Thanks
Paul
Amel 54 Ya Fohi



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Amel 54 how to chenge bow thruster oil

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Kent,

He is talking about the 54 bow thruster which is entirely different than your SM bow thruster.

Sadly 54 owners do not post very many maintenance procedures in this forum. My recommendation is to communicate with SAV "at"Amel.fr

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail

On Jun 10, 2016 10:56 AM, "Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

I'm not aware of any lower drain for the bow thruster, so I'm guessing you're talking about the CDrive oil.  Since you have access to the drain plug, I also assume you are on the hard.  Are you doing routine maintenance, or do you have water in the oil?  If it has been a couple of years you should change the prop shaft seals, too.

Drain the oil from the lower plug (it's best if you have something set up to keep the oil from draining all over the paint.  If you do a search you should find a thread about this that describes a threaded pipe that goes into the drain hole.
After the oil has drained out, through the drain hole, suck out what oil is left in the bottom of the lower unit with a pump with small tube on the suction side of the pump.  If your oil is milky, flush with some cheap oil a time or two (turning the p rop several times) until it comes out clean.  When you replace the plug, use a new oring.

For the Bow Thruster:
I assume the 54 bow thruster works the same as the SM, Paul.  Remove the lower unit, turn it upside down to drain the oil.  If it is milky, put a solvent in (like mineral spirits), turn the prop a few times, and pour it out, repeat until it is coming out clean.  Either wait til the solvent dries (like over night), or I put some acetone in, slosh it around a little and pour it out. After an hour it should have evaporated.  Then replace the oil, and reinstall the lower unit.

There is a good explanation of all of this in the files section.  Read that before you proceed, and follow those instructions carefully.  It's not rocket science, but eliminating steps, or ori enting seals improperly will give you a less than optimal result.  If someone sucked your oil out, they don't understand your boat.

Hope this will get you started.  If I totally misread your question, try again.
Kent
SM243
Kristy
Currently Bonaire 






On Jun 10, 2016, at 8:49 AM, sharongbrown@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi, I need to change my bow thruster oil. When this was last done they pumped the oil up from the bottom. Is this really necessary? Would it be possible to simply drain the oil, then fill from the top until the new oil starts to drain from the bottom before closing the outlet?
Thanks
Paul
Amel 54 Ya Fohi



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Amel 54 how to chenge bow thruster oil

karkauai
 

I'm not aware of any lower drain for the bow thruster, so I'm guessing you're talking about the CDrive oil.  Since you have access to the drain plug, I also assume you are on the hard.  Are you doing routine maintenance, or do you have water in the oil?  If it has been a couple of years you should change the prop shaft seals, too.

Drain the oil from the lower plug (it's best if you have something set up to keep the oil from draining all over the paint.  If you do a search you should find a thread about this that describes a threaded pipe that goes into the drain hole.
After the oil has drained out, through the drain hole, suck out what oil is left in the bottom of the lower unit with a pump with small tube on the suction side of the pump.  If your oil is milky, flush with some cheap oil a time or two (turning the prop several times) until it comes out clean.  When you replace the plug, use a new oring.

For the Bow Thruster:
I assume the 54 bow thruster works the same as the SM, Paul.  Remove the lower unit, turn it upside down to drain the oil.  If it is milky, put a solvent in (like mineral spirits), turn the prop a few times, and pour it out, repeat until it is coming out clean.  Either wait til the solvent dries (like over night), or I put some acetone in, slosh it around a little and pour it out. After an hour it should have evaporated.  Then replace the oil, and reinstall the lower unit.

There is a good explanation of all of this in the files section.  Read that before you proceed, and follow those instructions carefully.  It's not rocket science, but eliminating steps, or orienting seals improperly will give you a less than optimal result.  If someone sucked your oil out, they don't understand your boat.

Hope this will get you started.  If I totally misread your question, try again.
Kent
SM243
Kristy
Currently Bonaire 






On Jun 10, 2016, at 8:49 AM, sharongbrown@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi, I need to change my bow thruster oil. When this was last done they pumped the oil up from the bottom. Is this really necessary? Would it be possible to simply drain the oil, then fill from the top until the new oil starts to drain from the bottom before closing the outlet?
Thanks
Paul
Amel 54 Ya Fohi



Amel 54 how to chenge bow thruster oil

ya_fohi
 

Hi, I need to change my bow thruster oil. When this was last done they pumped the oil up from the bottom. Is this really necessary? Would it be possible to simply drain the oil, then fill from the top until the new oil starts to drain from the bottom before closing the outlet?
Thanks
Paul
Amel 54 Ya Fohi



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Globe Run Dry Impellers

Alan Leslie
 

Hi Bill,
The ONAN pump is made by Sherwood, but it's made in 2 pieces, the one I put on is also Sherwood but a one-piece casting - Sherwood sell it as a direct replacement. 
I see no difference in run time hours between the standard impeller and the GLOBE impeller.
n=1 is not a good study, ever ! 
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437, Vuda Pt Marina, FIJI


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Globe Run Dry Impellers

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Alan,

I am 99% sure that the Onan OEM pump is made by Sherwood.

I think that you should do what you feel is right, but I know how smart you are and I know that you realize that one example without a problem statistically proves nothing.

I believe that if you did nothing except buy only OEM impellers (no Globe), and you changed the impeller every 200 hours or two years, that you would not have a problem. That was my 3000 hour around-the-world experience until I bought Globe Run-Dry Impellers. But, that ia only one example and proves nothing.

Best,

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail

On Jun 9, 2016 3:50 PM, "divanz620@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

The question is WHY does the ONAN eat impellers ? 
Is it something to do with the design of that pump housing?
I changed mine for a Sherwood single piece machined pump housing, made no difference. 
My Yanmar engine (and I am sure Volvo) doesn't go through impellers the way the ONAN does.
When I have changed the Yanmar impeller after hundreds of hours running it looks like new.
I have seen a number of installations of this MARCH pump and it seems to work fine. 
The pump housing is left on the engine with no impeller.....there is no issue with that, the shaft is now driving nothing.
The saltwater supply comes from the manifold pipe just cut shorter and the outlet of the pump connected to the flow sensor and to the heat exchanger.
The 230VAC comes from the generator output with a circuit breaker installed.
One Amel 54 which I am quite familiar with has an 11kVA ONAN with a MARCH pump for its cooling circuit. This boat has been halfway around the world in 5 years with no issues at all....certainly no ONAN impeller issues.
That's mt twopennyworth
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Globe Run Dry Impellers

James Alton
 

I would be curious to know what rpm the Onan impeller runs?   I agree, Yanmar rw impellers basically die from age rather than from hours.  Heat seems to often be involved with accelerated wear.  I don't if that is a factor here or not. James


Sent from Samsung Mobile



-------- Original message --------
From: "divanz620@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...>
Date: 06-09-2016 5:03 PM (GMT-04:00)
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Globe Run Dry Impellers


 

The question is WHY does the ONAN eat impellers ? 
Is it something to do with the design of that pump housing?
I changed mine for a Sherwood single piece machined pump housing, made no difference. 
My Yanmar engine (and I am sure Volvo) doesn't go through impellers the way the ONAN does.
When I have changed the Yanmar impeller after hundreds of hours running it looks like new.
I have seen a number of installations of this MARCH pump and it seems to work fine. 
The pump housing is left on the engine with no impeller.....there is no issue with that, the shaft is now driving nothing.
The saltwater supply comes from the manifold pipe just cut shorter and the outlet of the pump connected to the flow sensor and to the heat exchanger.
The ONAN raw water flow rate (50Hz) is 18.9 l/min (60Hz 22.7l/min). The MARCH LC-3CP-MD has a max flow of 31 lpm (0 head) which decreases to 22 l/min at a head of 2m, so we are in the right area. 
The 230VAC comes from the generator output with a circuit breaker installed in line.
One Amel 54 which I am quite familiar with has an 11kVA ONAN with a MARCH pump for its cooling circuit. This boat has been halfway around the world in 5 years with no issues at all....certainly no ONAN impeller issues.
That's my twopennyworth
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Globe Run Dry Impellers

Alan Leslie
 

The question is WHY does the ONAN eat impellers ? 
Is it something to do with the design of that pump housing?
I changed mine for a Sherwood single piece machined pump housing, made no difference. 
My Yanmar engine (and I am sure Volvo) doesn't go through impellers the way the ONAN does.
When I have changed the Yanmar impeller after hundreds of hours running it looks like new.
I have seen a number of installations of this MARCH pump and it seems to work fine. 
The pump housing is left on the engine with no impeller.....there is no issue with that, the shaft is now driving nothing.
The saltwater supply comes from the manifold pipe just cut shorter and the outlet of the pump connected to the flow sensor and to the heat exchanger.
The ONAN raw water flow rate (50Hz) is 18.9 l/min (60Hz 22.7l/min). The MARCH LC-3CP-MD has a max flow of 31 lpm (0 head) which decreases to 22 l/min at a head of 2m, so we are in the right area. 
The 230VAC comes from the generator output with a circuit breaker installed in line.
One Amel 54 which I am quite familiar with has an 11kVA ONAN with a MARCH pump for its cooling circuit. This boat has been halfway around the world in 5 years with no issues at all....certainly no ONAN impeller issues.
That's my twopennyworth
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Globe Run Dry Impellers

James Alton
 

Bill,
  Bronze is very easy to machine and you don't have to use a mill or anything fancy for a job like cleaning up rough areas inside your pump housing. One option is to use a drum sander just under the ID of the casting. I would start with about 80g and once the imperfections were removed work down to finer grits, finishing with w/d down to about 600g.  Move the drum in and out so that you don't cut grooves. You could even polish the last of the scratches out using fiberglass or metal polish.  Just wash the housing out really well to remove the abrasive.  I wouldn't worry about taking a little metal out in this process if needed.  Best of luck,  James


Sent from Samsung Mobile



-------- Original message --------
From: "'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...>
Date: 06-09-2016 10:44 AM (GMT-04:00)
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Globe Run Dry Impellers


 

For my two cents...

I think this modification has numerous issues and would caution the attempt to re-engineer what Cummins Onan has done.

I believe that you need to address these things if you proceed with this:

Water flow and water flow pressure - While the March magnetic drive may have the reguired flow specifications, it may not have the force of flow. AND, most importantly what is the required flow. It seems to me that the flow could possibly overwhelm the exhaust 's ability to clear the wet muffler...if that happens, good-bye Onan.

Where to connect the pump to 230VAC? I assume that you would want to connect it to the same place as the exhaust fan. Is there sufficient current available? Is that going to be properly fused?

Will the flow sensor work properly? What are those specs?

What are your plans to seal the port for the existing pump? If you leave the pump in place, will it be OK free-running without an impeller and the water to cool the casing?

My bottom line is that none of us has all of the information to make this decision, and I do not envision Onan giving any of us what we need to do this. I will not be doing this modification because I do not want to bet the cost of a new generator for something that nobody can be sure of.

On another note regarding the saltwater pump that Onan selected for this generator, I belive the original casting is poorly done and the inside of the pump needs to be machined slightly. The last time I changed the impeller (The dreaded Globe Run-Dry) I noticed a casting imperfection. When I was cleaning the inside of the pump with Wet-dry sandpaper, there were obviously two spots that were bad. I want to try to have this pump machined/polished. Has anyone done this?

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail

On Jun 9, 2016 8:24 AM, "'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

This is intriguing. It would seem the failure rate of the pump would be less likely than the impellers. What do you do with the original mechanical pump? Leave it in place without the impeller and connect the March pump to it? Or, does the March pump connect directly to the heat exchanger?

 

Also, how can you be sure the March pump delivers enough water at full load? The impellers move a lot of water through the engine.

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Super Maramu 2000

Hull #275

www.creampuff.us

Currently cruising:  Tampa Bay for hurricane season

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Wednesday, June 08, 2016 11:00 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Globe Run Dry Impellers

 

 

Hi Mark

 

The MARCH pump is a centrifugal pump used with air conditioners to pump the water around.

LC-2CP-MD Magnetic Drive Pump | March Pump | March Manufacturing Inc.

image

LC-2CP-MD Magnetic Drive Pump | March Pump | Mar...

March Pump LC-2CP-MD, Centrifugal Sealless Magnetically Coupled Submersible Pump, 5GPM and 13 Feet of Head, 115V or 230V.

Preview by Yahoo

 

 

They come in a 230VAC version and quite a few Amel owners have mounted them in front of the ONAN and use them to pump the saltwater cooling instead of the dreaded impeller. You connect it to the AC output of the generator and saltwater in from the manifold and out to the heat exchanger.

I bought one some time ago and will eventually install it....makes sense for the Calpeda aircon pump we have too as it has no direct connection between motor ground and the saltwater thus isolating the bonding system from the AC ground.

Cheers

Alan 

Elyse SM437