Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Volvo TMD22 engine mounts

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Not only growth on the AutoProp, but also is there any play in the blades indicating bad bearings. When were the bearings last replaced and when was the AutoProp last greased and at that time, did you check for bearing play?

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail

On Jun 13, 2016 3:40 PM, "Richard03801 richard03801@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi after all that one might check you Auto Prop. Any growth will cause an issue. You should normally run smooth. 

Fair Winds Smooth Sailing To All
Capt Richard 
RP Yacht Brokerage
Newport RI 
We list sell and service fine yachts including Amel's

On Jun 13, 2016, at 14:05, 'Mike Ondra' mdondra@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

TO ALL YOU AMEL TROUBLESHOOTERS

 

About 10 days ago I posted the question below regarding engine/c-drive alignment and much to my surprise received no feedback as of yet. Our group typically does not hold back on comments.

 

I do know that alignment is an issue, to the point where some have recommended the use of feeler gauges and being attentive to 1000ths of an inch.  My question gets to the point of what is the acceptable tolerance of that alignment.  What are the actual effects of being outside the tolerance?

 

As I indicated in my posting, our alignment appeared visually “pretty good” (both vertical alignment and angle) and pulled together perfectly with the tightening of the coupling bolts with minimal deflections of the engine and c-drive mounts. Whatever intolerance there was “seemed” to be taken up by the engine and c-drive mount flexibility.  Remember the only parts that were changed in this project were the engine mounts and coupling bushings. No reason to believe there would be any dimensional changes between the c-drive and the engine/transmission/flange assemblies.

 

What I don’t know is what to expect as “reasonable” vibration in the power train assembly when under power. As I said, out of gear the engine is rock solid at virtually any RPM. When in gear, the vibration is quite obvious, and seems to be more that what we remember.

 

Assuming the alignment is the problem, I propose to

1)      back off the bolts on the coupling

2)      remove the engine-to-frame bolts

3)      slide the engine back a cm or so to check vertical alignment

4)      make some vertical adjustment to leveling nuts as necessary

5)      bring the assembly back together fairly tight

6)      use the feeler gauge to verify angular alignment and make final adjustment to leveling nuts

7)      re-bolt

 

Thoughts?

 

Mike Ondra

ALETES SM#240

Rock Hall, MD

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, June 04, 2016 5:16 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Volvo TMD22 engine mounts

 

 

QUESTIONS

We notice that the engine is quite stationary trough wide RPM range when transmission not engaged. When moving under power, the engine/c-drive assembly vibration/oscillation seems to be in the neighborhood of 1/8". The motion is visible, but no vibration transmits to the vessel. Is this typical, or an indication of poor alignment of the engine/c-drive? Or other cause. Or is the well balance power train perfectly stationary when motoring? 

 

THE REST OF THE STORY

As a follow up to this posting we did purchase new engine mounts from Jamestown Distributors in Bristol, RI. $168 ea. identical to the original VETUS-MITSTEUN. The installation went well following the aggregated advice of many on the BB. Pat (Shenanigans) provided a 4x4 to span between the cockpit coamings and a come-along made the engine lift easy. We found we had to unbolt the engine from the frame (4 bolts) to slide it aft far enough (1/2") to disconnect the bolts between the coupling and the transmission output shaft flange. Then raised the engine about 3".

After disconnecting the 4 bolts supporting the C-drive to its frame, the entire frame assembly could be easily lifted off the 4 bad engine mounts for removal. We had no bolts seized or difficult to remove. No wires were disconnected and the only hose requiring removal was the seawater feeding the transmission heat exchanger. (that hose was replaced with black exhaust hose 1-1/4" which fit perfectly on both ends. Our marina indicated that the OEM plastic hose is no longer rated for below waterline.)

There seemed to be little opportunity in the reassembly process for re-alignment horizontally. the only slotted holes being in those in the engine mounts and the amount was minimal, a couple mm. Vertically we attempted to place the leveling nuts on the replacement mounts exactly where there were on the old measuring from the top down as the old were now variably slightly shorter (perhaps compression over time).

The bushings on the Vetus coupling were completely worn through on one side resulting in a metal to metal contact and a bit of metal wear. We inserted new bushings.

Everything was reassembled all bolts/nuts slightly loose. The engine slid forward and after loosely bolting to the coupling, alignment looked pretty good, not technically measured. The coupling bolts were tightened. With all other bolts loose, we started the engine and engaged the transmission briefly forward and aft under the theory with the bolts loose that the assembly would "settle in". And it did seem to. Again the alignment looked OK. At that point all bolts were tightened. We did not do a precision feeler gauge test nor did we adjust the leveling nuts.  Total job about 6 hours with 2 of us.

 

Anyway the new mounts and coupling bushings took care of our knocking sound as well as a generally reduced vibration and engine noise.

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Volvo TMD22 engine mounts

Richard03801 <richard03801@...>
 

Hi after all that one might check you Auto Prop. Any growth will cause an issue. You should normally run smooth. 

Fair Winds Smooth Sailing To All
Capt Richard 
RP Yacht Brokerage
Newport RI 
We list sell and service fine yachts including Amel's
Cell 603 767 5330

On Jun 13, 2016, at 14:05, 'Mike Ondra' mdondra@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

TO ALL YOU AMEL TROUBLESHOOTERS

 

About 10 days ago I posted the question below regarding engine/c-drive alignment and much to my surprise received no feedback as of yet. Our group typically does not hold back on comments.

 

I do know that alignment is an issue, to the point where some have recommended the use of feeler gauges and being attentive to 1000ths of an inch.  My question gets to the point of what is the acceptable tolerance of that alignment.  What are the actual effects of being outside the tolerance?

 

As I indicated in my posting, our alignment appeared visually “pretty good” (both vertical alignment and angle) and pulled together perfectly with the tightening of the coupling bolts with minimal deflections of the engine and c-drive mounts. Whatever intolerance there was “seemed” to be taken up by the engine and c-drive mount flexibility.  Remember the only parts that were changed in this project were the engine mounts and coupling bushings. No reason to believe there would be any dimensional changes between the c-drive and the engine/transmission/flange assemblies.

 

What I don’t know is what to expect as “reasonable” vibration in the power train assembly when under power. As I said, out of gear the engine is rock solid at virtually any RPM. When in gear, the vibration is quite obvious, and seems to be more that what we remember.

 

Assuming the alignment is the problem, I propose to

1)      back off the bolts on the coupling

2)      remove the engine-to-frame bolts

3)      slide the engine back a cm or so to check vertical alignment

4)      make some vertical adjustment to leveling nuts as necessary

5)      bring the assembly back together fairly tight

6)      use the feeler gauge to verify angular alignment and make final adjustment to leveling nuts

7)      re-bolt

 

Thoughts?

 

Mike Ondra

ALETES SM#240

Rock Hall, MD

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, June 04, 2016 5:16 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Volvo TMD22 engine mounts

 

 

QUESTIONS

We notice that the engine is quite stationary trough wide RPM range when transmission not engaged. When moving under power, the engine/c-drive assembly vibration/oscillation seems to be in the neighborhood of 1/8". The motion is visible, but no vibration transmits to the vessel. Is this typical, or an indication of poor alignment of the engine/c-drive? Or other cause. Or is the well balance power train perfectly stationary when motoring? 

 

THE REST OF THE STORY

As a follow up to this posting we did purchase new engine mounts from Jamestown Distributors in Bristol, RI. $168 ea. identical to the original VETUS-MITSTEUN. The installation went well following the aggregated advice of many on the BB. Pat (Shenanigans) provided a 4x4 to span between the cockpit coamings and a come-along made the engine lift easy. We found we had to unbolt the engine from the frame (4 bolts) to slide it aft far enough (1/2") to disconnect the bolts between the coupling and the transmission output shaft flange. Then raised the engine about 3".

After disconnecting the 4 bolts supporting the C-drive to its frame, the entire frame assembly could be easily lifted off the 4 bad engine mounts for removal. We had no bolts seized or difficult to remove. No wires were disconnected and the only hose requiring removal was the seawater feeding the transmission heat exchanger. (that hose was replaced with black exhaust hose 1-1/4" which fit perfectly on both ends. Our marina indicated that the OEM plastic hose is no longer rated for below waterline.)

There seemed to be little opportunity in the reassembly process for re-alignment horizontally. the only slotted holes being in those in the engine mounts and the amount was minimal, a couple mm. Vertically we attempted to place the leveling nuts on the replacement mounts exactly where there were on the old measuring from the top down as the old were now variably slightly shorter (perhaps compression over time).

The bushings on the Vetus coupling were completely worn through on one side resulting in a metal to metal contact and a bit of metal wear. We inserted new bushings.

Everything was reassembled all bolts/nuts slightly loose. The engine slid forward and after loosely bolting to the coupling, alignment looked pretty good, not technically measured. The coupling bolts were tightened. With all other bolts loose, we started the engine and engaged the transmission briefly forward and aft under the theory with the bolts loose that the assembly would "settle in". And it did seem to. Again the alignment looked OK. At that point all bolts were tightened. We did not do a precision feeler gauge test nor did we adjust the leveling nuts.  Total job about 6 hours with 2 of us.

 

Anyway the new mounts and coupling bushings took care of our knocking sound as well as a generally reduced vibration and engine noise.

 


[Amel Yacht Owners] Blue Sea AC Multimeter Installation

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Good afternoon,

I just received the Blue Sea AC Multimeter 8247
https://www.bluesea.com/products/8247/AC_Digital_Multi-Function_Meter_with_Alarm

I read the instruction and understand it needs to be connected to the A/C Line 1 and A/C Line 2.

Should I connect of the Blue Sea to the Line 1 and 2 “before” it goes to the (water resistant) box of the 220 Volt panel (in which case they could potentially be exposed to water)

Or should I connect them after it goes to the 220 Volt panel box, in which case how do I have the wire going out of it (without making new holes).
Note I could run longer 16 gage to the BlueSea, but the twisted wire won't be long enough...

Pictures of installation would be nice…

As always, thanks in advance.

Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Club Nautico de San Juan, Puerto Rico


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Volvo TMD22 engine mounts

Mike Ondra
 

TO ALL YOU AMEL TROUBLESHOOTERS

 

About 10 days ago I posted the question below regarding engine/c-drive alignment and much to my surprise received no feedback as of yet. Our group typically does not hold back on comments.

 

I do know that alignment is an issue, to the point where some have recommended the use of feeler gauges and being attentive to 1000ths of an inch.  My question gets to the point of what is the acceptable tolerance of that alignment.  What are the actual effects of being outside the tolerance?

 

As I indicated in my posting, our alignment appeared visually “pretty good” (both vertical alignment and angle) and pulled together perfectly with the tightening of the coupling bolts with minimal deflections of the engine and c-drive mounts. Whatever intolerance there was “seemed” to be taken up by the engine and c-drive mount flexibility.  Remember the only parts that were changed in this project were the engine mounts and coupling bushings. No reason to believe there would be any dimensional changes between the c-drive and the engine/transmission/flange assemblies.

 

What I don’t know is what to expect as “reasonable” vibration in the power train assembly when under power. As I said, out of gear the engine is rock solid at virtually any RPM. When in gear, the vibration is quite obvious, and seems to be more that what we remember.

 

Assuming the alignment is the problem, I propose to

1)      back off the bolts on the coupling

2)      remove the engine-to-frame bolts

3)      slide the engine back a cm or so to check vertical alignment

4)      make some vertical adjustment to leveling nuts as necessary

5)      bring the assembly back together fairly tight

6)      use the feeler gauge to verify angular alignment and make final adjustment to leveling nuts

7)      re-bolt

 

Thoughts?

 

Mike Ondra

ALETES SM#240

Rock Hall, MD

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, June 04, 2016 5:16 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Volvo TMD22 engine mounts

 

 

QUESTIONS

We notice that the engine is quite stationary trough wide RPM range when transmission not engaged. When moving under power, the engine/c-drive assembly vibration/oscillation seems to be in the neighborhood of 1/8". The motion is visible, but no vibration transmits to the vessel. Is this typical, or an indication of poor alignment of the engine/c-drive? Or other cause. Or is the well balance power train perfectly stationary when motoring? 

 

THE REST OF THE STORY

As a follow up to this posting we did purchase new engine mounts from Jamestown Distributors in Bristol, RI. $168 ea. identical to the original VETUS-MITSTEUN. The installation went well following the aggregated advice of many on the BB. Pat (Shenanigans) provided a 4x4 to span between the cockpit coamings and a come-along made the engine lift easy. We found we had to unbolt the engine from the frame (4 bolts) to slide it aft far enough (1/2") to disconnect the bolts between the coupling and the transmission output shaft flange. Then raised the engine about 3".

After disconnecting the 4 bolts supporting the C-drive to its frame, the entire frame assembly could be easily lifted off the 4 bad engine mounts for removal. We had no bolts seized or difficult to remove. No wires were disconnected and the only hose requiring removal was the seawater feeding the transmission heat exchanger. (that hose was replaced with black exhaust hose 1-1/4" which fit perfectly on both ends. Our marina indicated that the OEM plastic hose is no longer rated for below waterline.)

There seemed to be little opportunity in the reassembly process for re-alignment horizontally. the only slotted holes being in those in the engine mounts and the amount was minimal, a couple mm. Vertically we attempted to place the leveling nuts on the replacement mounts exactly where there were on the old measuring from the top down as the old were now variably slightly shorter (perhaps compression over time).

The bushings on the Vetus coupling were completely worn through on one side resulting in a metal to metal contact and a bit of metal wear. We inserted new bushings.

Everything was reassembled all bolts/nuts slightly loose. The engine slid forward and after loosely bolting to the coupling, alignment looked pretty good, not technically measured. The coupling bolts were tightened. With all other bolts loose, we started the engine and engaged the transmission briefly forward and aft under the theory with the bolts loose that the assembly would "settle in". And it did seem to. Again the alignment looked OK. At that point all bolts were tightened. We did not do a precision feeler gauge test nor did we adjust the leveling nuts.  Total job about 6 hours with 2 of us.

 

Anyway the new mounts and coupling bushings took care of our knocking sound as well as a generally reduced vibration and engine noise.

 


Bow Thruster and wear bushing service hints that are not in instructions

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Someone asked me for some service hints.

The following is what I wrote and wanted to share with everyone. When I have good enough internet, I will add these hints to the instructions.

Prop shaft wear bushing hints:
After removing the bushing and seals, clean the surface that the outside of the seals press against...the inside walls should be smooth. They probably need cleaning. This is where some water will enter. It will feel rough like sandpaper...it should be smooth. Use wet-dry fine sandpaper.

Remove the new O ring inside the new wear bushing. Grease it and fill its slot in the bushing with waterproof grease. Reinsert the O ring. This is where some water will enter.

Orientation and position of the seals are equally very important. A common mistake is to have the outer seal in the wrong position (in/out), and/or change orientation of the seals because you think you are smarter than Captain Amel. Read the instructions carefully. Double check as you do it. You might damage one of these seals. Always be sure to have extras.

Bow Thruster service hints:
The specs of the shaft seal on the bow thruster has changed. I hope you saw that thread. A common mistake is to not press this seal all the way in. I use RTV on this seal. I have not used the new size yet. I will next time.

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Marina Recommendations in NJ?

greatketch@...
 

Thanks to everybody who had specific recommendations.

I was hoping for something more in New Jersey and less in New York, especially less in New York City!  But... originally being a Jersey Boy I knew going into this that the Jersey Shore is not a friendly place for a deep-draft boat.  The very few marinas we found who had sufficient water either had no transient slips or none available for us.

By slowly widening our search circle we did find a spot at Sandy Hook Marina in Atlantic Highlands for July.  A bit further north than I was hoping for, but not too bad.

I have used ActiveCaptain as a resource and will again. I do frequently find it tedious because like everything on the internet (including what I write!) it has a some good information intermixed with errors, fantasies, and confusions. We called several places based on ActiveCaptain information and found what is written ain't necessarily so! 

Bill Kinney
SM #160, Harmonie


Hi Derick

sailormon <kimberlite@...>
 

Hi Derick,

Are you in Sint Maarten now?

I expect to be there Thursday afternoon.

We are at Simpson Bay Yacht Club.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Monday, June 13, 2016 12:13 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Mizzen Roller Reefing

 

 

I took the frozen shaft to FKG in Sint Maarten, and they were able to remove the very tight Allen wrench bolt and free up the shaft rotation.  Apparently there was some corrosion that had built up in the connecting shaft.  Best advice, crank you mizzen back and forth every once in a while to prevent corrosion buildup!

 

I added some lithium grease to the bevel gears before reassembly, and used blue locktite on the aluminum threads joining the shaft to the main gear housing.  After fitting the whole assembly back into the mizzen, I put the foil back on the main gear housing, and then put mizzen sail back on the foil.  Everything now works smoothly as expected.

 

I posted a few more photos in the SM Mizzen Gearbox album to show the greasing of the bevel gear and the final assembly before reinstallation on the mizzen mast.

 

Derick

SM2K#400 Brava


Re: Mizzen Roller Reefing

Derick Gates SM2K #400 Brava
 

I took the frozen shaft to FKG in Sint Maarten, and they were able to remove the very tight Allen wrench bolt and free up the shaft rotation.  Apparently there was some corrosion that had built up in the connecting shaft.  Best advice, crank you mizzen back and forth every once in a while to prevent corrosion buildup!

I added some lithium grease to the bevel gears before reassembly, and used blue locktite on the aluminum threads joining the shaft to the main gear housing.  After fitting the whole assembly back into the mizzen, I put the foil back on the main gear housing, and then put mizzen sail back on the foil.  Everything now works smoothly as expected.

I posted a few more photos in the SM Mizzen Gearbox album to show the greasing of the bevel gear and the final assembly before reinstallation on the mizzen mast.

Derick
SM2K#400 Brava


Re: bow thruster service. Problem

Craig Briggs
 

Yes, Enio, that's how you would use it.
Good luck,
Craig


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: bow thruster service. Problem

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

The Amel Bow Thruster shaft tube removal tool is placed around the black shaft tube  just under the motor (engine). It is clamped securely to the shaft tube. Then you turn the bolts which will press against the motor (engine). This will cause the motor (engine) and the shaft tube to separate.

Be prepared for the separation or the bow thruster will fall to the ground.

This rust which is holding the black shaft tube to the electric motor is caused by saltwater leaking past the seals and possibly by leaving the bow thruster down in rough water. Other causes are an overloaded boat with too much weight in the bow. Also forgetting to use the safety pin when the bow thruster is raised.

Be sure to clean the bottom of the motor where the shaft tube meets and visually inspect the bearing on the shaft of the motor. That bearing may need replacing. If it does, be sure to hire a highly qualified electric motor repairman. That motor is no longer available and you do not want to damage it or ruin it. When reassembling use plenty of waterproof grease at the junction of the shaft tube and the motor. I recommend service during every haulout...about every 2 years.

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail

On Jun 13, 2016 2:45 AM, "rossienio@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Good morning, I did what told me Craig (chain wrench used with extension, taping with hammer), but the thruster black shaft does NOT want to move. I think I'll try the Amel tool. Could someone explain to me where you place the tool and how to use it? It should be put around the shaft and pushed down by turning the screws which press under  of the engine? Thanks to anyone who can help me. 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Amel 54 how to chenge bow thruster oil

ya_fohi
 

Indeed I did miss Olivier's replay, apologies. It seems to answer the question. My hull number is 98 and it does drain from the bottom.
Cheers,
Paul


Re: bow thruster service. Problem

rossienio@...
 

Good morning, I did what told me Craig (chain wrench used with extension, taping with hammer), but the thruster black shaft does NOT want to move. I think I'll try the Amel tool. Could someone explain to me where you place the tool and how to use it? It should be put around the shaft and pushed down by turning the screws which press under  of the engine? Thanks to anyone who can help me. 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Amel 54 how to chenge bow thruster oil

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Paul,

Apparently you did not see Olivier's reply and question to you in this thread. He answered your questions and asked you a question. There is no person in this Group that knows more about this subject than Olivier. I copied and pasted his posting below:

 <>>>>
Hello Paul and everyone who wants to know more about the AMEL 54,

The bow-thruster of the AMEL 54 is an AMEL design built on a SLEIPNER SIDE POWER basis. AMEL makes it retractable. It has two props with 4 and then 5 (later models) blades each, more protected than on a Santorin/SM...

Paul, depending on your hull number, there is a drain plug at the bottom of the bow-thruster gear -box. The oil drains very slowly and you can fill it from the top oil container (very slow too, warm up the oil in the sun before you put it in the container).

The last AMEL 54 have a bow-thruster with a non-drainable gear-box. The unit is said to be "lubricated for life" by Sleipner. However, if you remove the lip-seals at the prop-shafts, the oil will drain, and you will need to put new oil from the top of the drive shaft tube (just like on a Santorin or SM).

Paul, can you tell your hull number?

Cheers.

Olivier
<<<<<<>>>>>

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail

On Jun 12, 2016 8:32 AM, "sharongbrown@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Thanks for the advice Craig. I wonder if anyone on this forum has actually changed the oil before by filling from the top?
Paul


Re: Amel 54 how to chenge bow thruster oil

ya_fohi
 

Thanks for the advice Craig. I wonder if anyone on this forum has actually changed the oil before by filling from the top?
Paul


Re: Amel 54 how to chenge bow thruster oil

Craig Briggs
 

Paul,
It sounds like filling from the top would work although the yard guys may have a point about filling from the bottom drain hole like an outboard lower unit to avoid air pockets. Any chandlery will have a very inexpensive manual pump they sell with the gear oil, if that would fit.
Craig SN#68 Sangaris 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Mizzen Roller Reefing

VLADIMIR SONSEV
 

Thanks a lot!!

On Jun 10, 2016 10:58 PM, "derickgates@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Vladimir,


Done!

Derick


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Amel 54 how to chenge bow thruster oil

Germain Jean-Pierre <jgermain@...>
 

Paul,

Instead of draining it out, consider sucking it out with a Pella pump… has all sorts of other uses on the boat too.

Cheers,


Jean-Pierre Germain
SY Eleuthera, SM 007


On 11 Jun 2016, at 13:13, sharongbrown@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Thanks for all the replies - I didn't expect this would generate so much interest!

I do have a drain plug at the bottom. This is just routine maintenance - the unit is working perfectly. I just wanted to know if it was really necessary to pump the new oil in from the bottom as the last time this was done the boatyard insisted that is was necessary to avoid getting trapped air in it. I don't have any equipment to do this. I'm convinced however that as long as I keep the drain open when refilling from the top there should be no trapped air and I can close the drain as soon as the new oil starts to come out. This is my theory anyway!
Paul


Jean-Pierre Germain,
SY Eleuthera, Amel Super Maramu 007
Porto Turistico Marina di Ragusa, Pontoon M15,
97100 Ragusa, Sicily, Italy
+44 7551 211 511
jp.germain@...


Re: Amel 54 how to chenge bow thruster oil

ya_fohi
 

Thanks for all the replies - I didn't expect this would generate so much interest!

I do have a drain plug at the bottom. This is just routine maintenance - the unit is working perfectly. I just wanted to know if it was really necessary to pump the new oil in from the bottom as the last time this was done the boatyard insisted that is was necessary to avoid getting trapped air in it. I don't have any equipment to do this. I'm convinced however that as long as I keep the drain open when refilling from the top there should be no trapped air and I can close the drain as soon as the new oil starts to come out. This is my theory anyway!
Paul


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] B&G Depth Transducer

seagasm@...
 

Sorry for the delay with my reply Bill, some idiot during a previous ownership put a join inside my bow rail nav lights wiring and it shorted out, rewire was necessary, all good now. I am not going to risk withdrawing the transducer, I have a very dry boat and I do not want to risk water gushing inside. I do agree, I have not heard of any failures, guess a dip in the tide will be necessary, thank you all the same.

Kind Regards
Barry & Robyn
Tradewinds III SM 171


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Mizzen Roller Reefing

Derick Gates SM2K #400 Brava
 

Vladimir,

Done!

Derick