Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Main sheet traveler for Super Maramu

Mark Pitt
 

My main sheet traveler had been getting more difficult to move in the past couple of years but I gave it little thought except to rinse it all with fresh water on occasion.  Moving the traveler suddenly became much worse during my recent passage from Sicily to Sardinia.  On arrival, I found that one of the sheaves of the traveler car (the one on the port side) had broken.  On further inspection, I also found that the sheave in the Antal deck block that is on the starboard side of the track was not turning at all.

 

It was very difficult to remove the bolts holding the sheaves of the traveler car, nor could I find a source for new sheaves.  I am in small island near Sardinia (Isola San Pietro) that lacks facilities to fabricate a sheave and I had a date to sail with friends.  At first, I considered buying a new traveler car.  The traveler car on my SM #419 is a Lewmar Ocean size 3, which is no longer in production.  According to Lewmar tech support, there is a newer version that will fit the Lewmar Ocean/NTR size 3 “Drilled Plunger Track” that the SM has.  That traveler is the NTR Torlon Ball Main Sheet Car with Shackle, part 29433400BK.  The problem is that one has to remove the track in order to install a new car.  The track is bolted into the deck, presumably through a metal plate glassed into the hull.  I was reluctant to try unbolting it especially since I had such trouble unbolting the sheaves from the existing traveler car. In addition, I found that the bearings on the traveler car were in excellent shape as the car moved very smoothly once the traveler control line was removed.

 

I was finally able to find a source for new sheaves for the traveler car.  I bought three Lewmar sheaves (9.80 euros each, part# 25000104 ) from http://www.international-boat-spares.com/.  With shipping and VAT it came out to 45 euros.  They are based in France but their web site is both in French and English. The new sheaves arrived quickly.  Beware that the little nylon inserts used in the traveler sheaves are not included in the replacement sheaves so be careful to hang on to them.

 

The sheave (Antal Mod. 06016/F) in the Anta block at the starboard side of the traveler track turned out to be more difficult to deal with.  It seemed crushed and does not turn well even when cleaned up.  Antal is an Italian product so I thought it would be easy to source a new sheave here but that is not the case.  One Italian chandlery told me that Antal was not a popular choice with Italian sailors!  I could not easily locate any mail order chandlery in Europe that would sell them to me.  However, Mauri Pro in the US has them in stock (Antal 60mm Sheave Marui Pro Code: XZANT06016F, Price: $ 36.52) and has an EU web site.  I will be back in the US briefly in August and will get one from Mauri Pro.  The two other Antal blocks in the traveler setup turn easily.  I do not know why this one was damaged.

 

While waiting for the all of this to unfold, I was able to use the traveler by using two spare Harken blocks in place of the built-in traveler care sheaves.  It worked great.  I removed the bolts that go through the traveler sheaves and used a soft shackle (just some Dyneema line) to connect each bolt to a Harken block.  The bolt is threaded along its entire length so I inserted the bolt through a bit of water hose and put the soft shackle around the hose acting as chafe protection.  I used small bits of line to hold the blocks just a couple of mm above the track.  It was very easy to move the traveler car with this setup.  Today I replaced this jury rigged system with the newly arrived Lewmar sheaves and the traveler car moves well but not as easily as with the blocks.  The Lewmar sheaves are just nylon turning on a threaded bolt, not the best system to reduce friction.

 

Mark Pitt

Sabbatical III, SM #419, Carloforte, Italy

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Outhaul rope problem

Paul Osterberg
 

Thank you all, will start with the contact cement looks as a cost efficient solution.
I have tension the line a few times now, so when no tension from sail I can almost play a tune on it, but when closed hauled it creep and lose tension
Paul on SYKerpa SM 259


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Batteries - What type house batteries to use & what voltage charge from Solar/Wind?

Bill Kinney <greatketch@...>
 

Kent,

I’ll elaborate a bit on Bill R’s questions…  

The amount of water you are adding to your batteries is above normal.  Water does not leave a battery by evaporation, no matter how hot it is in the Caribbean! It leaves by being converted to hydrogen gas during the charging process.  The amount of water your batteries are using would lead me (and Bill R.  to guess your batteries are being overcharged.

Do all the individual batteries take the same amount of water?

Do you know what the acceptance and float voltages are for your charging system?

How are your solar panels controlled?

Bill Kinney
SM#160 Harmonie

On Jun 14, 2016, at 10:02, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


Kent,

Is the charger switched to match the charging characteristics of your batteries? Didn't you switch the type of batteries and the charger? Has a qualified person checked the charging characteristics...and, did he determine that the charger is actually outputting the correct charging characteristics?

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail

 

Kent,


Did you get sealed batteries?  If not, have you checked the fluid levels?  I just replaced my batteries with 12 Trojan SCS200 batteries (115AH) in January in Martinique.  Unlike my previous sealed batteries, I am able to/need to open the vents and add distilled water.  I found that even when new, water needed to be added to several of the cells.  In the last 5 months, I have checked the fluid levels twice and have added a total of about 2 gallons of distilled water!  The Caribbean is one hot place!!  I also have an indoor/outdoor thermometer installed in the battery compartment to monitor the temperature when the batteries are charging (thanks for the suggestion Bill Rouse).  The battery compartment usually stays a couple of degrees above ambient.

I will check them one more time before putting Brava up on the hard for hurricane season, leaving the solar power on to keep them topped up i n voltage but with only the freshwater pump and the bilge pump left in the on position.  The former will rinse the Dessalator membranes once a week for three minutes with fresh water from the tank.

It seems early in the life of your batteries to have to desulfate them, but maybe that would be worth a try.

Derick
SM2K#400 Brava




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Batteries

eric freedman
 

Hi Kent,

Did you check the water level in the batteries?

In the warm areas I always have to add a lot of water to the batteries. These “worry free” batteries are a myth—they need water in my case. Even though they are supposed to be sealed all the ones I have purchased over the years can be opened up. You might have to cut a label. If the plates are above the water the battery is usually finished.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Tuesday, June 14, 2016 7:36 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Batteries

 

 

Hi all,
I have a question about batteries.
I just replaced my flooded lead acid batteries about a month ago. I have a 400 Ah bank and a Charles 60A smart charger.
When I first got the batteries, they lasted nearly 24 hours, When they neared 24V, I charged for about 2 1/2 hours until the charger was putting in less than 10 A. About two weeks ago they were only lasting 12 hours, with the voltage dropping to 24V after only 40 Ah of discharge. They charge back up within 1-1/2 hours.
I have checked all connections and all are tight and show no resistance. I have an electronic battery tester as recommended by Bill which shows all batteries with better than rated CCAs.
All batteries are showing the same voltage, but when I check the amperage going into each pair during charging, one pair is charging at an amp more than the other pairs.

I'm not sure how to interpret what is going on, but it seems to be acting like I have a much smaller Ah battery bank.

Any ideas or suggestions?
Thanks
Kent
SM243
Kristy


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: bow thruster service. Problem

enio rossi
 

Thank you once again. Beat with a hammer on the shaft tube, while the tool is pulling,can help the detachment of the rust, or risk of damage the same tube? I'm working but does not seems to go down..........


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Batteries - What type house batteries to use & what voltage charge from Solar/Wind?

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Kent,

Is the charger switched to match the charging characteristics of your batteries? Didn't you switch the type of batteries and the charger? Has a qualified person checked the charging characteristics...and, did he determine that the charger is actually outputting the correct charging characteristics?

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail

 

Kent,


Did you get sealed batteries?  If not, have you checked the fluid levels?  I just replaced my batteries with 12 Trojan SCS200 batteries (115AH) in January in Martinique.  Unlike my previous sealed batteries, I am able to/need to open the vents and add distilled water.  I found that even when new, water needed to be added to several of the cells.  In the last 5 months, I have checked the fluid levels twice and have added a total of about 2 gallons of distilled water!  The Caribbean is one hot place!!  I also have an indoor/outdoor thermometer installed in the battery compartment to monitor the temperature when the batteries are charging (thanks for the suggestion Bill Rouse).  The battery compartment usually stays a couple of degrees above ambient.

I will check them one more time before putting Brava up on the hard for hurricane season, leaving the solar power on to keep them topped up i n voltage but with only the freshwater pump and the bilge pump left in the on position.  The former will rinse the Dessalator membranes once a week for three minutes with fresh water from the tank.

It seems early in the life of your batteries to have to desulfate them, but maybe that would be worth a try.

Derick
SM2K#400 Brava


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Reya Bilge Pump not pumping

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Mohammad,

That is a difficult question to answer other than it might hold water for a period of time when the Joker Valve is new, but without the suction, I believe it will leak dry.

That said, when the marina pump is at 100% condition with a new diaphragm and new flapper valves, it doesn't need the hose to be filled and will lift from the bottom of the gray water tank.

Remove the Joker Valve and take it to most any marine supply store. These Joker Valves are used in several marine applications including toilets. If the store you go to doesn't have any, they can probably either order it, or tell you where to go. I would but two. You may be forced to buy the complete strainer with a Joker Valve included...but I think you can find just the valve.

When installing the repair kit for this pump, take care that the diaphragm will be marked "water side." If you reverse it, you will have problems. I always lubricate the edges of the diaphragm with Silicone grease. You buy silicone grease fir O rings at a dive shop. I use silicone grease on all O rings and all hose connections.

Also, a Warning: I broke teeth off of the white gear when I tested the pump while partially disassembled. Some people would accuse me of shoddy work if I were a yard service worker and demand that I pay for it. Mistakes happen. So , if you do as I did and test this pump, make sure that the diaphragm pump arm does not cime Lise and bind on the frame of the pump...it will break teeth off that white gear and you too could be accused of shoddy work and maybe a refusal to pay for the work. ;)

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail

On Jun 14, 2016 8:49 AM, "mshirloo@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi Bill;


Thanks for the reply.

I also suspect the back flow intake. However wanted to be sure. Do you know if the backflow device should be able to hold the water in the hose with the pipe disconnected from the pump without any water leakage?

Also, where did you buy the back flow device from?

Thanks

Mohammad and Aty
Amel 54 #099
B&B Kokomo 


Re: Batteries - What type house batteries to use & what voltage charge from Solar/Wind?

Derick Gates SM2K #400 Brava
 

Kent,

Did you get sealed batteries?  If not, have you checked the fluid levels?  I just replaced my batteries with 12 Trojan SCS200 batteries (115AH) in January in Martinique.  Unlike my previous sealed batteries, I am able to/need to open the vents and add distilled water.  I found that even when new, water needed to be added to several of the cells.  In the last 5 months, I have checked the fluid levels twice and have added a total of about 2 gallons of distilled water!  The Caribbean is one hot place!!  I also have an indoor/outdoor thermometer installed in the battery compartment to monitor the temperature when the batteries are charging (thanks for the suggestion Bill Rouse).  The battery compartment usually stays a couple of degrees above ambient.

I will check them one more time before putting Brava up on the hard for hurricane season, leaving the solar power on to keep them topped up in voltage but with only the freshwater pump and the bilge pump left in the on position.  The former will rinse the Dessalator membranes once a week for three minutes with fresh water from the tank.

It seems early in the life of your batteries to have to desulfate them, but maybe that would be worth a try.

Derick
SM2K#400 Brava


OLDER MARAMU REPOWERING WITH YANMAR 4JH4-HTE WATER INGRESS EXHAUST

Alejandro Paquin
 

Good morning to all. We repowered our Older 1981 Maramu with a Yanmar 4JH4-HTE work completed 2 1/2 years ago. The engine now has less than 300 hours.Previous engine was a Perkins 4154. We have had two incidents.

1. Carter flooded with seawater from the exhaust from overcranking. Inadvertently the engine ran about 20 minutes in this condition. The engine had less then 100 hours when this ocurred. The engine was left like this for 30 days. When we realized what had happened we made 6 oil and filter changes to flush the engine. The engine started with some difficulty but operated normally when used for another 200 hours approx.in the course of 2 years.


2. Last week after being shut down one month, the engine would not turn. We decided to remove the valve cover and injectors and found cylinder No.1 with one cup of seawater. Water apparently entered when it was shut down. That cylinder was with the exhaust valve open.


We removed the water and flooded all cylinders with WD-40 and 15-W40 engine oil to attempt getting the pistons unstuck.


The raw water intake was left identical to the original arrangement which worked well with the Perkins. The diameter of the Yanmar Exhaust is 3" slightly larger than the Perkins´ and therefore modified the Amel supplied SS muffler which is in good condition for this diameter. The exhaust hose after the muffler was changed but is slighty less diameter than the 3" from the engine.

Also we had to relocate the muffler to the port side to adapt to the new Yanmar exhaust location.


Obviously there is a hydraulics problem I don´t understand very well. I posted some pics of the installation we have now. The 3" exhaust hose from the Yanmar does curve up before coupling to the muffler, that could be a problem.


I seek some advice from the group members regarding what should we do with the engine (first aid) and second the hydraulics of the exhaust system, where did we go wrong?


Alex Paquin

SIMPATICO

Older Maramu 1981, hull #94


I would like to hire a crew to ferry my Sharki from City Island Marina to Pepperell Cove, Kittery Point, ME

Roy Duddy <RDuddy@...>
 

Anyone interested that is qualified AND neat? The last time I had her ferried the Captain was a slob!!! Thanks.

Roy
Unwineding 
Sharki #123


Roy Duddy
Duddy Law Offices
One Liberty Lane, Suite 256
Hampton, New Hampshire 03842
603-668-9000 Tel.
603-758-1084 Fax
800-675-0800 New England
603-315-9600 Cell


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Marina for wintering Greece, Cyprus, and Sicily - haulouts

Mohammad Shirloo
 

Thank you Bill. I'm sure I will be taking you up on your kind offer of sharing your experience.

Mohammad and Aty
Amel 54 #099
B&B Kokomo 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Blue Sea AC Multimeter Installation

Mark Erdos
 

Alexandre,

 

I will try to send you pictures within the next day, or so. (waiting for a new camera to arrive from Amazon)

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Super Maramu 2000

Hull #275

www.creampuff.us

Currently cruising:  Tampa Bay for hurricane season

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Monday, June 13, 2016 3:07 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Blue Sea AC Multimeter Installation

 

 

Good afternoon,

I just received the Blue Sea AC Multimeter 8247
https://www.bluesea.com/products/8247/AC_Digital_Multi-Function_Meter_with_Alarm

I read the instruction and understand it needs to be connected to the A/C Line 1 and A/C Line 2.

Should I connect of the Blue Sea to the Line 1 and 2 “before” it goes to the (water resistant) box of the 220 Volt panel (in which case they could potentially be exposed to water)

Or should I connect them after it goes to the 220 Volt panel box, in which case how do I have the wire going out of it (without making new holes).
Note I could run longer 16 gage to the BlueSea, but the twisted wire won't be long enough...

Pictures of installation would be nice…

As always, thanks in advance.

Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Club Nautico de San Juan, Puerto Rico


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Marina for wintering Greece, Cyprus, and Sicily - haulouts

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Mohammad, email anytime, or directly at bill"at"svbebe.com. I tried to give you the best understanding of our experience in the Med from Sicily to Turkey to Cyprus to Greece.

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail

On Jun 14, 2016 7:59 AM, "mshirloo@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Thanks Bill for taking the time and putting together such a detailed e-mail. It will take time to review your recommendations and may come back with some questions.


Mohammad and Aty
Amel 54 #099
B&B Kokomo 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Volvo TMD22 engine mounts

karkauai
 

Hi Pat.  No, it is a disc the same thickness as the Vetus coupling, with holes drilled for the bolts.  The disc is installed just as the Vetus would be, and alignment performed with the disc in place.  Then the engine is moved back, the disc removed, and the Vetus reinstalled, moving the engine back to where it was when aligned properly with the disc.

Does that sound right?  Am I missing anything?

Kent
SM243
Kristy


On Jun 14, 2016, at 8:12 AM, Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Kent, I replaced my mounts last fall and all seems good , however I remember this solid coupling suggested as a means of assuring alignment . Could you describe it ? It would seem to me, that all you would need would be pipe milled to be the exact ID as the shaft's OD . The shafts would not be able to side into the pipe unless absolutely aligned . Is that basically what it is ?
Thanks,
Pat


-----Original Message-----
From: Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Mon, Jun 13, 2016 7:08 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Volvo TMD22 engine mounts

 
Hi Mike.
Did you know that Amel recommends (or did) using a solid coupling of the same dimensions as the Vetus flexible coupling? The engine is aligned using the solid coupling, 1/1000" tolerance. Then the solid coupling is removed and replaced with the Vetus coupling.

I had a solid coupling made at a machine shop in Puerto Rico out of aluminum.

On Kristy there is very little if any difference in vibration whether in neutral or in gear.

Hope that sheds a little more light.
Kent
SM 243
Currently Bonaire


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Reya Bilge Pump not pumping

Mohammad Shirloo
 

Thanks again Bill.

So, Is my understanding from your reply correct that it would be normal for a hose full of water that is connected to the joker valve to drain slowly through the joker valve, if not connected and sealed 100%  to the pump? If so, then my issue may be the hose to pickup or hose to pump connection. 

Mohammad and Aty
Amel 54 #099
B&B Kokomo 


Re: Hi Derick

Derick Gates SM2K #400 Brava
 

Hi Eric,

We left Sint Maarten yesterday with the last bridge opening, and are currently in St. Barts, looking for a weather window to sail down to Antigua.  I have a haulout date set on Friday morning the 17th, in Bailey's Boatyard in Falmouth Harbour, so I am afraid I missed you.  Kimberlite looks stellar!

Next year?

Fair winds,

Derick
SM2K#400 Brava


Re: Reya Bilge Pump not pumping

Mohammad Shirloo
 

Hi Bill;

Thanks for the reply.

I also suspect the back flow intake. However wanted to be sure. Do you know if the backflow device should be able to hold the water in the hose with the pipe disconnected from the pump without any water leakage?

Also, where did you buy the back flow device from?

Thanks

Mohammad and Aty
Amel 54 #099
B&B Kokomo 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Reya Bilge Pump not pumping

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Your answers are below the questions:

1. Is the backflow device 100% responsible for not letting the water drain out of the pump or does the pump need to be attached to the hose for the back flow device to work?
ANSWER: No. The Joker Valve in the strainer is mostly responsible, but if you have the slightest air leak in the pump or where the hose connects to the pump, it will drain. There are two forces at play in keeping the pump primed. Joker Valve physical closure which depends on water pressure against the valve, and suction. Lose one of these and it will drain. That hose is not expensive and neither is the Joker Valve inside the strainer. Id you have not replaced either in 4 years, replace them. Neither may be the cause, but they will be the easiest and cheapest in the process of elimination.

2. Since I could not get the pump to work even when the hose was held at pump height and filled with water, do you agree with my conclusion that the a new re-build kit needs to be installed?
ANSWER
Yes, but....Was the pump mechanically operating the diaphragm? A rebuild kit does not include the gear which appears to be made out of white plastic (actually Delrin). One or more of the teeth of this gear may be missing. I am told that SAV"at"Amel.fr has these. I know that Amel's service rep in Turkey has them. A warning: There are some cheaply made off-brand service kits on the market. Buy your service kit from SAV only to avoid any problems.

3. I know I had seen the instructions for installing the re-build kit on this forum but can't seem to find it. Can some one point me in the right direction or e-mail me the procedure/manual at
ANSWER
Go to the Yahoo Amel website. Click on PHOTOS. In the search box enter bilge. You will see some photos and an exploded view. Click on FILES and do the same thing.

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail

 

Our Reya Bilge pump (TIPO - MARINA) has stopped pumping. A new kit was installed about a year ago and it has worked fine other than losing prime a few times. I would have to remove the hose and intake from the bilge, fill the hose with water while the pump was running and as soon as it would prime I would put it back in and it would work fine. In the past month, I have had to do this several times.


I remember reading on the forum that the problem can be with the pipe getting old and not sealing properly and letting air back in. So I disconnected the hose and filled it with water with the back flow intake attached. Water slowly drains from the back flow intake and nothing comes out from around the hose.


My questions are:

1. Is the backflow device 100% responsible for not letting the water drain out of the pump or does the pump need to be attached to the hose for the back flow device to work?


2. Since I could not get the pump to work even when the hose was held at pump height and filled with water, do you agree with my conclusion that the a new re-build kit needs to be installed?


3. I know I had seen the instructions for installing the re-build kit on this forum but can't seem to find it. Can some one point me in the right direction or e-mail me the procedure/manual at mshirloo at transpacific dot us.


Thank you


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Amel 54 how to chenge bow thruster oil

ya_fohi
 

Thanks Olivier. I have managed to change the oil from the top. In the process I found it useful to attach an air pump (used for the dinghy) to the top of the reservoir which greatly speeded up the process by forcing the old oil out and the new oil in.
Cheers,
Paul


Re: Reya Bilge Pump not pumping

william_maffei@...
 

Hey there -

If you are constantly having to prime your pump then there is an air leak somewhere in the line that needs to be addressed. I had the same problem when I did the re-build. I am almost certain (if done correctly) it is not necessary to re-build again. To solve my problem I replaced the one way value on the intake hose and added a hose clamp at the bottom NPT on the pump itself. Worked like a charm. 

Bill Maffei
It's all Good
SM #195