Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Reya Bilge Pump not pumping

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Mohammad,

That is great news. I am glad that I could remotely help diagnose your problem.

Now that you have that done, start shopping for a new hose and new Joker Valve.

Best,

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail

On Jun 15, 2016 4:38 AM, "mshirloo@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi Bill;


Your advise was right on the money. While I was trying to re-prime the pump by pouring water in the intake while holding it above the pump, I noticed some water leaking from the side of the pipe at the pump connection that I had not noticed before. In closer inspection, I found a hair line crack in the pipe. 

I cut the pipe a couple of inches to get past the hairline crack, greased the barbed connection at the pump and the inside of the pipe, used some duct tape on the outside of the pipe for protection and double clamped the connection. While I was at it, I did the same at the pipe to intake connection. 

Surprisingly the pump started pumping without even priming it. It also sounded a lot quieter than I remember. I think the hairline air intake made the pump work harder to empty out the bilge.

You definitely helped to avoid a lot of extra unnecessary work that wou ld not have solved the issue.

Thank you

Mohammad and Aty
Amel 54 #099
B&B Kokomo 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] GENSET ONAN CUMMINS cannot restart after fuel filter and oil change

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

One more thing...just a hint when changing that filter.

Before you have the new fuel filter completely tightened, open the fuel valve until the filter is full and overfilling, catching the overfill with either a cup or cloth, then tighten the filter. If you do it this way, you will get almost zero air in the system.

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail

On Jun 15, 2016 7:02 AM, "Bill & Judy Rouse" <yahoogroups@...> wrote:

Dom,

Olivier ia absolutely correct.  If you cannot hear the electric fuel pump when you are priming (pressing the switch down), or when starting, the pump needs to be replaced.

I carried a spare pump with me around the world and the original pump failed when I was in Athens about 2 miles from an Onan dealer...oh well!

Do you have a spare pump?

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail

On Jun 15, 2016 4:05 AM, "Beaute Olivier atlanticyachtsurvey@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hello Dominique,

if you cannot hear the priming pump, or cannot feel it vibrating when you put your fingers on it while priming or starting, this means the pump is out of order.
The generator's engine will not start if this pump is out of order. You need a new priming pump...

Bon courage.

Olivier


On Wednesday, June 15, 2016 9:54 AM, "songhui_ma@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


 
Hello, 

I have tried the following to no avail: 
- prime up to 5 min
- unmount the new filter - no air;  full of diesel fuel
- open the pipes going to the injectors, then crank; no fuel appears [?!] but the injectors seem full of fuel

Oil and coolant are at appropriate level. 
Fuel Pump. I checked and the pump is receiving 12V during priming. 
However I am not hearing it but the fuel filter was fuller than when we mounted it, so I infer it is working.
The fuel tank level is above 250 liters, So it should not be the security that disconnect the genset and give priority to the main engine. 
 
This genset is from 2012, has 720 hours and has been maintained. 
The reference is 7MDKBL-5871F 
< br clear="none">
Any idea or suggestion will be greatly appreciated. 

Many thanks in advance 
Dominique Guenot 
S/V Viva Currently in Hiva Oa, Marquesas, French Polynesia



Re: OLDER MARAMU REPOWERING WITH YANMAR 4JH4-HTE WATER INGRESS EXHAU

Andy Croney
 

Thanks for these insights ,

We went for the refurbishment route of our old Perkins 4154 engine, partly due to cost and advice from local mechanics plus many of the fishing boats and junks still have the Perkins in board so sourcing parts locally , servicing etc not too much of a problem. So far so good

I guess only time will tell if it was a good decision .

Thanks again for sharing

Andy

Older Maramu #75


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] GENSET ONAN CUMMINS cannot restart after fuel filter and oil change

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Dom,

Olivier ia absolutely correct.  If you cannot hear the electric fuel pump when you are priming (pressing the switch down), or when starting, the pump needs to be replaced.

I carried a spare pump with me around the world and the original pump failed when I was in Athens about 2 miles from an Onan dealer...oh well!

Do you have a spare pump?

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail

On Jun 15, 2016 4:05 AM, "Beaute Olivier atlanticyachtsurvey@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hello Dominique,

if you cannot hear the priming pump, or cannot feel it vibrating when you put your fingers on it while priming or starting, this means the pump is out of order.
The generator's engine will not start if this pump is out of order. You need a new priming pump...

Bon courage.

Olivier


On Wednesday, June 15, 2016 9:54 AM, "songhui_ma@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


 
Hello, 

I have tried the following to no avail: 
- prime up to 5 min
- unmount the new filter - no air;  full of diesel fuel
- open the pipes going to the injectors, then crank; no fuel appears [?!] but the injectors seem full of fuel

Oil and coolant are at appropriate level. 
Fuel Pump. I checked and the pump is receiving 12V during priming. 
However I am not hearing it but the fuel filter was fuller than when we mounted it, so I infer it is working.
The fuel tank level is above 250 liters, So it should not be the security that disconnect the genset and give priority to the main engine. 
 
This genset is from 2012, has 720 hours and has been maintained. 
The reference is 7MDKBL-5871F 
< br clear="none">
Any idea or suggestion will be greatly appreciated. 

Many thanks in advance 
Dominique Guenot 
S/V Viva Currently in Hiva Oa, Marquesas, French Polynesia



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Batteries - What type house batteries to use & what voltage charge from Solar/Wind?

karkauai
 

Masha Danki, Eric!
Kent

On Jun 14, 2016, at 10:13 PM, 'sailormon' kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Kent.

We stayed at the Curacao Yacht Club.

Very nice place and Nice people.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Tuesday, June 14, 2016 3:51 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Batteries - What type house batteries to use & what voltage charge from Solar/Wind?

 

 

Thank you Hanspeter,

My email is karkauai "at" yahoo "dot" com

The 8 100Ah series 27 lead acid batteries are set up as 4 pairs in series.  Each of these pairs is connected in parallel to two posts at the port side of the battery compartment.  The positive pole of each pair to the positive post, and the negative pole of each pair to the negative post (i.e. in parallel).  I have looked at this twice to confirm that I didn't connect one pair wrong.  A large cable goes from each post to the double pole switch on the foreward end of the battery compartment (marked "Service").

When I charge tonight, I will let it run longer than normal until I am only charging at about 1 Amp and see what the voltage is.  That's when you say it should be at 27.2-27.3V, correct?  In the interim I will look at the charging characteristics of my charger, and the discharge characteristics of the batteries.  I am sailing tomorrow, when I get to Curacao and get internet access again, I will let you know what I found.

Thanks again

Kent

SM 243

Kristy

 

On Jun 14, 2016, at 12:02 PM, 'hanspeter.baettig@...' hanspeter.baettig@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Kent

do you have the original Amel set up for your 8 115 AH Batteries Bank?

The floating Voltage should be 27.2 -27.3 V when Engine, Genset or Landpower or with the 24 V Alternator when motoring after lets say 6-8 hours or less depending on the charge level of the batteries.

Send a picture how the Batteries are connected to the charger; that means from what point of the batterie bank the two big cabels goes to the main batterie switches in the engine room. Unfortunately there are a lot of non professional info about batteries in this forum. I keep the ball down but I'm a Electric Engineer with quite a lot of know how about this subject. If you whish I can send you my email to support you.

regards

Hanspeter

Von meinem iPhone gesendet


Am 14.06.2016 um 17:19 schrieb Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>:

 

Hi all, thank you for your replies.

 

I have non-sealed batteries.  The water level is fine...I added less than a liter to all 8 batteries.  (that was Derick who added 2 gallons of water).  

The charger is set for flooded lead-acid batteries.  When the voltage is 24V, the charger voltage goes up to 26 v+/- and charges at 50-53 A for a short time, then amps slowly drop and the voltage increases as the batteries fill up. At float charge it reads 26v.  It acts like it is working properly, but I will look up the advertised charging characteristics for the lead-acid setting to see if it matches what I am seeing.

 

I don't have solar or wind yet.

 

The voltage and amperage I measure is the same as I am reading on my 24v monitor, but as I said earlier, when I look at the amperage going into each battery pair, one pair seems to be getting an amp more than the other pairs early in the charging cycle.

 

To me, it seems that the system acts like there is a much smaller Ah battery bank than the 400 Ah I should have.  I have checked all connections,  confirmed that all batteries in the bank are at the same voltage, and tested for CCA with my Solar (TM) battery tester.  The only anomalies I find are that one pair is charging at a higher rate than the others early in the charging cycle, and during discharge (charger off) two pairs are discharging at 1.6A, and two pairs at 0.6A.  That makes me think that either the connections are not all good (they all test No Resistance), or I have a bad battery or two (they all test the same with the battery tester).

 

During all phases of charging, there are no batteries that feel warm to the touch.

 

Thanks again

Kent

 




On Jun 14, 2016, at 10:33 AM, Bill Kinney greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Kent,

 

I’ll elaborate a bit on Bill R’s questions…  

 

The amount of water you are adding to your batteries is above normal.  Water does not leave a battery by evaporation, no matter how hot it is in the Caribbean! It leaves by being converted to hydrogen gas during the charging process.  The amount of water your batteries are using would lead me (and Bill R.  to guess your batteries are being overcharged.

 

Do all the individual batteries take the same amount of water?

 

Do you know what the acceptance and float voltages are for your charging system?

 

How are your solar panels controlled?

 

Bill Kinney

SM#160 Harmonie

 

On Jun 14, 2016, at 10:02, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

 

Kent,

Is the charger switched to match the charging characteristics of your batteries? Didn't you switch the type of batteries and the charger? Has a qualified person checked the charging characteristics...and, did he determine that the charger is actually outputting the correct charging characteristics?

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail

 

Kent,

 

Did you get sealed batteries?  If not, have you checked the fluid levels?  I just replaced my batteries with 12 Trojan SCS200 batteries (115AH) in January in Martinique.  Unlike my previous sealed batteries, I am able to/need to open the vents and add distilled water.  I found that even when new, water needed to be added to several of the cells.  In the last 5 months, I have checked the fluid levels twice and have added a total of about 2 gallons of distilled water!  The Caribbean is one hot place!!  I also have an indoor/outdoor thermometer installed in the battery compartment to monitor the temperature when the batteries are charging (thanks for the suggestion Bill Rouse).  The battery compartment usually stays a couple of degrees above ambient.

 

I will check them one more time before putting Brava up on the hard for hurricane season, leaving the solar power on to keep them topped up i n voltage but with only the freshwater pump and the bilge pump left in the on position.  The former will rinse the Dessalator membranes once a week for three minutes with fresh water from the tank.

 

It seems early in the life of your batteries to have to desulfate them, but maybe that would be worth a try.

 

Derick

SM2K#400 Brava

 

 

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Reya Bilge Pump not pumping

Mohammad Shirloo
 

Hi Bill;

Your advise was right on the money. While I was trying to re-prime the pump by pouring water in the intake while holding it above the pump, I noticed some water leaking from the side of the pipe at the pump connection that I had not noticed before. In closer inspection, I found a hair line crack in the pipe. 

I cut the pipe a couple of inches to get past the hairline crack, greased the barbed connection at the pump and the inside of the pipe, used some duct tape on the outside of the pipe for protection and double clamped the connection. While I was at it, I did the same at the pipe to intake connection. 

Surprisingly the pump started pumping without even priming it. It also sounded a lot quieter than I remember. I think the hairline air intake made the pump work harder to empty out the bilge.

You definitely helped to avoid a lot of extra unnecessary work that would not have solved the issue.

Thank you

Mohammad and Aty
Amel 54 #099
B&B Kokomo 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] GENSET ONAN CUMMINS cannot restart after fuel filter and oil change

Olivier Beaute
 

Hello Dominique,

if you cannot hear the priming pump, or cannot feel it vibrating when you put your fingers on it while priming or starting, this means the pump is out of order.
The generator's engine will not start if this pump is out of order. You need a new priming pump...

Bon courage.

Olivier


On Wednesday, June 15, 2016 9:54 AM, "songhui_ma@... [amelyachtowners]" wrote:


 
Hello, 

I have tried the following to no avail: 
- prime up to 5 min
- unmount the new filter - no air;  full of diesel fuel
- open the pipes going to the injectors, then crank; no fuel appears [?!] but the injectors seem full of fuel

Oil and coolant are at appropriate level. 
Fuel Pump. I checked and the pump is receiving 12V during priming. 
However I am not hearing it but the fuel filter was fuller than when we mounted it, so I infer it is working.
The fuel tank level is above 250 liters, So it should not be the security that disconnect the genset and give priority to the main engine. 
 
This genset is from 2012, has 720 hours and has been maintained. 
The reference is 7MDKBL-5871F 

Any idea or suggestion will be greatly appreciated. 

Many thanks in advance 
Dominique Guenot 
+1 917 826 0945 
S/V Viva Currently in Hiva Oa, Marquesas, French Polynesia



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Leroy Somers main outhaul gearbox

Alan Leslie
 

Hi Joel,
No mods needed , it was exactly the same as the old one...oh except it was green, so I spray painted it with white epoxy paint !
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437 - Fiji


GENSET ONAN CUMMINS cannot restart after fuel filter and oil change

Songhui Ma
 

Hello, 


I have tried the following to no avail: 

- prime up to 5 min

- unmount the new filter - no air;  full of diesel fuel

- open the pipes going to the injectors, then crank; no fuel appears [?!] but the injectors seem full of fuel


Oil and coolant are at appropriate level. 

Fuel Pump. I checked and the pump is receiving 12V during priming. 

However I am not hearing it but the fuel filter was fuller than when we mounted it, so I infer it is working.

The fuel tank level is above 250 liters, So it should not be the security that disconnect the genset and give priority to the main engine. 

 

This genset is from 2012, has 720 hours and has been maintained. 

The reference is 7MDKBL-5871F 


Any idea or suggestion will be greatly appreciated. 


Many thanks in advance 

Dominique Guenot 

+1 917 826 0945 

S/V Viva Currently in Hiva Oa, Marquesas, French Polynesia


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Batteries - What type house batteries to use & what voltage charge from Solar/Wind?

sailormon <kimberlite@...>
 

Hi Kent.

We stayed at the Curacao Yacht Club.

Very nice place and Nice people.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Tuesday, June 14, 2016 3:51 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Batteries - What type house batteries to use & what voltage charge from Solar/Wind?

 

 

Thank you Hanspeter,

My email is karkauai "at" yahoo "dot" com

The 8 100Ah series 27 lead acid batteries are set up as 4 pairs in series.  Each of these pairs is connected in parallel to two posts at the port side of the battery compartment.  The positive pole of each pair to the positive post, and the negative pole of each pair to the negative post (i.e. in parallel).  I have looked at this twice to confirm that I didn't connect one pair wrong.  A large cable goes from each post to the double pole switch on the foreward end of the battery compartment (marked "Service").

When I charge tonight, I will let it run longer than normal until I am only charging at about 1 Amp and see what the voltage is.  That's when you say it should be at 27.2-27.3V, correct?  In the interim I will look at the charging characteristics of my charger, and the discharge characteristics of the batteries.  I am sailing tomorrow, when I get to Curacao and get internet access again, I will let you know what I found.

Thanks again

Kent

SM 243

Kristy

 

On Jun 14, 2016, at 12:02 PM, 'hanspeter.baettig@...' hanspeter.baettig@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Kent

do you have the original Amel set up for your 8 115 AH Batteries Bank?

The floating Voltage should be 27.2 -27.3 V when Engine, Genset or Landpower or with the 24 V Alternator when motoring after lets say 6-8 hours or less depending on the charge level of the batteries.

Send a picture how the Batteries are connected to the charger; that means from what point of the batterie bank the two big cabels goes to the main batterie switches in the engine room. Unfortunately there are a lot of non professional info about batteries in this forum. I keep the ball down but I'm a Electric Engineer with quite a lot of know how about this subject. If you whish I can send you my email to support you.

regards

Hanspeter

Von meinem iPhone gesendet


Am 14.06.2016 um 17:19 schrieb Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>:

 

Hi all, thank you for your replies.

 

I have non-sealed batteries.  The water level is fine...I added less than a liter to all 8 batteries.  (that was Derick who added 2 gallons of water).  

The charger is set for flooded lead-acid batteries.  When the voltage is 24V, the charger voltage goes up to 26 v+/- and charges at 50-53 A for a short time, then amps slowly drop and the voltage increases as the batteries fill up. At float charge it reads 26v.  It acts like it is working properly, but I will look up the advertised charging characteristics for the lead-acid setting to see if it matches what I am seeing.

 

I don't have solar or wind yet.

 

The voltage and amperage I measure is the same as I am reading on my 24v monitor, but as I said earlier, when I look at the amperage going into each battery pair, one pair seems to be getting an amp more than the other pairs early in the charging cycle.

 

To me, it seems that the system acts like there is a much smaller Ah battery bank than the 400 Ah I should have.  I have checked all connections,  confirmed that all batteries in the bank are at the same voltage, and tested for CCA with my Solar (TM) battery tester.  The only anomalies I find are that one pair is charging at a higher rate than the others early in the charging cycle, and during discharge (charger off) two pairs are discharging at 1.6A, and two pairs at 0.6A.  That makes me think that either the connections are not all good (they all test No Resistance), or I have a bad battery or two (they all test the same with the battery tester).

 

During all phases of charging, there are no batteries that feel warm to the touch.

 

Thanks again

Kent

 




On Jun 14, 2016, at 10:33 AM, Bill Kinney greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Kent,

 

I’ll elaborate a bit on Bill R’s questions…  

 

The amount of water you are adding to your batteries is above normal.  Water does not leave a battery by evaporation, no matter how hot it is in the Caribbean! It leaves by being converted to hydrogen gas during the charging process.  The amount of water your batteries are using would lead me (and Bill R.  to guess your batteries are being overcharged.

 

Do all the individual batteries take the same amount of water?

 

Do you know what the acceptance and float voltages are for your charging system?

 

How are your solar panels controlled?

 

Bill Kinney

SM#160 Harmonie

 

On Jun 14, 2016, at 10:02, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

 

Kent,

Is the charger switched to match the charging characteristics of your batteries? Didn't you switch the type of batteries and the charger? Has a qualified person checked the charging characteristics...and, did he determine that the charger is actually outputting the correct charging characteristics?

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail

 

Kent,

 

Did you get sealed batteries?  If not, have you checked the fluid levels?  I just replaced my batteries with 12 Trojan SCS200 batteries (115AH) in January in Martinique.  Unlike my previous sealed batteries, I am able to/need to open the vents and add distilled water.  I found that even when new, water needed to be added to several of the cells.  In the last 5 months, I have checked the fluid levels twice and have added a total of about 2 gallons of distilled water!  The Caribbean is one hot place!!  I also have an indoor/outdoor thermometer installed in the battery compartment to monitor the temperature when the batteries are charging (thanks for the suggestion Bill Rouse).  The battery compartment usually stays a couple of degrees above ambient.

 

I will check them one more time before putting Brava up on the hard for hurricane season, leaving the solar power on to keep them topped up i n voltage but with only the freshwater pump and the bilge pump left in the on position.  The former will rinse the Dessalator membranes once a week for three minutes with fresh water from the tank.

 

It seems early in the life of your batteries to have to desulfate them, but maybe that would be worth a try.

 

Derick

SM2K#400 Brava

 

 

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Leroy Somers main outhaul gearbox

sailormon <kimberlite@...>
 

Mike,

Who was the gearbox vendor?

My friend has his Amel 54 near Philly the name of the boat is Spirit.

He liked Kimberlite so much he bought a 54.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Tuesday, June 14, 2016 9:58 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Leroy Somers main outhaul gearbox

 

 

Eric. I am near Philadelphia.

Mike Ondra

ALETES SM240

Rock Hall, MD

 

Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID



"kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Mike,

Where are you located.

Eric

Kimberlite sm 376

----- Original Message -----
From: "'Mike Ondra' mdondra@... [amelyachtowners]"
Date: Tuesday, June 14, 2016 2:39 pm
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Leroy Somers main outhaul gearbox
To: amelyachtowners@...

> I just received a quote from our local Leroy Somers rep for a
> new main
> outhaul gearbox for $460. Problem is about a 14 week lead time between
> production in France, summer vacation, and ocean shipping. What
> has been the
> cost and time when purchasing direct from Amel?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mike
>
> ALETES SM#240
>
>


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Leroy Somers main outhaul gearbox

Mike Ondra
 

Eric. I am near Philadelphia.
Mike Ondra
ALETES SM240
Rock Hall, MD

Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID


"kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Mike,
Where are you located.
Eric
Kimberlite sm 376


----- Original Message -----
From: "'Mike Ondra' mdondra@... [amelyachtowners]"
Date: Tuesday, June 14, 2016 2:39 pm
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Leroy Somers main outhaul gearbox
To: amelyachtowners@...

> I just received a quote from our local Leroy Somers rep for a
> new main
> outhaul gearbox for $460. Problem is about a 14 week lead time between
> production in France, summer vacation, and ocean shipping. What
> has been the
> cost and time when purchasing direct from Amel?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mike
>
> ALETES SM#240
>
>


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] DC cable sizing for larger charger

Stephen Davis
 

Hi Ben,

We have a Mastervolt 100 amp charger on Aloha, but have a different setup than you. We are hull #72, have a shorter cable run, and I went with 1/0 battery cable, which was a bit of an overkill. I think Bill's advice was excellent, and unless you are willing to up your cable size, you should probably stick to a smaller charger. Mastervolt also makes an 80 amp charger, and maybe the numbers would look a bit better with that. 

We are headed from Trinidad to Grenada tomorrow night, and will be at Port Louis Marina next to Rick and Linda on Rascal. Hope we can get together in Grenada. 

Regards,
Steve and Liz
Aloha SM72
Trinidad for not much longer...

On Jun 14, 2016, at 18:53, Ben Driver/YAHOO joedoakes66@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

It seems 100 amps will challenge my existing 25mm sq wiring.  Looks like I will keep it at 60 amp max 

Ben Driver
La Bella Vita
CG #1120066
SM #347

On Jun 14, 2016, at 11:33 AM, Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

When I bought a new charger I went with a 60A.  The cables from the charger go through the forward starboard corner of the engine room, then under the raised "step" between the Nav station and passageway to the battery compartment.  In that area under the "step", they are encased in a very hard material and would be very hard to replace.  You would have to look at the specs required for your new charger to see if the existing ones are adequate for the amperage and distance.
Kent
SM243
Kristy


On Jun 14, 2016, at 10:46 AM, joedoakes66@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

I recently replaced my failed Dolhin 30 Amp charger with a Mastervolt 60 Amp charger.  I did not upgrade either th AC or DC wiring.  All seems to work well.  Now I'm considering replacing the 50 Amp charger with a Mastervolt 80 or 100 Amp unit.  I think AC input wire size is OK.   Amel used the same size wire for both 30 and 50 Amp units.  My concern is DC wire size.    Not sure but it appears to be 25mm sq. (3 AWG).  Again Amel used same size for both 30 and 50 Amp chargers.  My question is will this size wire support larger charger?  Or will I need upgrade to 35 or 50mm sq.?  Has anyone done this upgrade without wiring upgrade?


Ben Driver

La Blla Vita

SM 347

Prickly Bay Grenada





Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Batteries - What type house batteries to use & what voltage charge from Solar/Wind?

karkauai
 

Great, Hanspeter, I look forward to your suggestions.
Kent

On Jun 14, 2016, at 8:07 PM, 'Hanspeter.baettig' hanspeter.baettig@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Kent, the battery monitor on your boat is ok, since you have the same messurements on all your points you tested; dont worry. I will send you a email for more probleme solving for your case. And then we will post the results on the Amel Forum, ok?
Hanspeter
Tamango 2
SM 16
Athene

Von meinem iPad gesendet

Am 14.06.2016 um 22:16 schrieb Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>:

 

I have not checked the shunt, Hanspeter, maybe my battery monitor is giving me bad readings?  When I check with my multimeter, the voltage and amperage readings are the same as what the battery monitor shows, whether charging or discharging.
I will check the shunt connections next.  Difficult job since all cables have to be removed to get to it!
Kent
On Jun 14, 2016, at 12:36 PM, 'hanspeter.baettig@...' hanspeter.baettig@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

to check the right way the batteries; each batterie has to be disconnect from the bus. Then wait at least 8 hours to check each batterie with a professional Bat Tester which print you the real status of the individual batterie status. Also a hint. Clean the connection on the shunt. The Shunt is connected in the negative big bat cabel. Go for google to understand what a shunt is for. To find out where your shunt is, look in your Amel Technical Manuals.
Hanspeter

Von meinem iPhone gesendet

Am 14.06.2016 um 17:46 schrieb 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>:

 

Did you totally disconnect each battery when testing it? Also, I think I read somewhere that when testing batteries they should be off of the charger for 30 minutes. I am not sure about this, but this is what I do.

An internal short will account for a battery taking more from the charger, but your tester should identify a short.

Somewhere else I believe that I read that some batteries in a bank will discharge more than others, resulting in those needing more charge...google for this or maybe ask a marine battery expert.

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail

On Jun 14, 2016 11:19 AM, "Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi all, thank you for your replies.

I have non-sealed batteries.  The water level is fine...I added less than a liter to all 8 batteries.  (that was Derick who added 2 gallons of water).  
The charger is set for flooded lead-acid batteries.  When the voltage is 24V, the charger voltage goes up to 26 v+/- and charges at 50-53 A for a short time, then amps slowly drop and the voltage increases as the batteries fill up. At float charge it reads 26v.  It acts like it is working properly, but I will look up the advertised charging characteristics for the lead-acid setting to see if it matches what I am seeing.

I don't have solar or wind yet.

The voltage and amperage I measure is the same as I am reading on my 24v monitor, but as I said earlier, when I look at the amperage going into each battery pair, one pair seems to be getting an amp more than the other pairs early in the charging cycle.

To me, it seems that the system acts like there is a much smaller Ah battery bank than the 400 Ah I should have.  I have checked all connections,  confirmed that all batteries in the bank are at the same voltage, and tested for CCA with my Solar (TM) battery tester.  The only anomalies I find are that one pair is charging at a higher rate than the others early in the charging cycle, and during discharge (charger off) two pairs are discharging at 1.6A, and two pairs at 0.6A.  That makes me think that either the connections are not all good (they all test No Resistance), or I have a bad battery or two (they all test the same with the battery tester).

During all phases of charging, there are no batteries that feel warm to the touch.

Thanks again
Kent




On Jun 14, 2016, at 10:33 AM, Bill Kinney greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Kent,


I’ll elaborate a bit on Bill R’s questions…  

The amount of water you are adding to your batteries is above normal.  Water does not leave a battery by evaporation, no matter how hot it is in the Caribbean! It leaves by being converted to hydrogen gas during the charging process.  The amount of water your batteries are using would lead me (and Bill R.  to guess your batteries are being overcharged.

Do all the individual batteries take the same amount of water?

Do you know what the acceptance and float voltages are for your charging system?

How are your solar panels controlled?

Bill Kinney
SM#160 Harmonie

On Jun 14, 2016, at 10:02, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


Kent,

Is the charger switched to match the charging characteristics of your batteries? Didn't you switch the type of batteries and the charger? Has a qualified person checked the charging characteristics...and, did he determine that the charger is actually outputting the correct charging characteristics?

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail

 

Kent,


Did you get sealed batteries?  If not, have you checked the fluid levels?  I just replaced my batteries with 12 Trojan SCS200 batteries (115AH) in January in Martinique.  Unlike my previous sealed batteries, I am able to/need to open the vents and add distilled water.  I found that even when new, water needed to be added to several of the cells.  In the last 5 months, I have checked the fluid levels twice and have added a total of about 2 gallons of distilled water!  The Caribbean is one hot place!!  I also have an indoor/outdoor thermometer installed in the battery compartment to monitor the temperature when the batteries are charging (thanks for the suggestion Bill Rouse).  The battery compartment usually stays a couple of degrees above ambient.

I will check them one more time before putting Brava up on the hard for hurricane season, leaving the solar power on to keep them topped up i n voltage but with only the freshwater pump and the bilge pump left in the on position.  The former will rinse the Dessalator membranes once a week for three minutes with fresh water from the tank.

It seems early in the life of your batteries to have to desulfate them, but maybe that would be worth a try.

Derick
SM2K#400 Brava




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Batteries - What type house batteries to use & what voltage charge from Solar/Wind?

karkauai
 

Thanks Hanspeter,
Another issue with the voltage dropping below 24 is that the fridges don't run their compressors in an effort to conserve battery power.  I've been told or read somewhere that discharging below 24v decreases the life of the batteries.
When the voltage is just above 24v with the fridges running, if I turn off the fridges the voltage stays the same.
I found in the charger specs that the bulk charge voltage for my charger is at 28 V, and the float voltage is 26.6v.  That is what my charger is doing, so I think the charger is working properly.  I will get a new hygrometer and check the specific gravity of the cells when at full charge after I get to Curaçao and let you know what I find.
Kent

On Jun 14, 2016, at 7:13 PM, 'hanspeter.baettig@...' hanspeter.baettig@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Ok Kent thanks for your reply
I send you some of my recomondation and then we post it in the amel forum. Even if your battery monitor shows in the evening after you used some amps and the voltages goes under 24 V lets say 23.5 V thats not a problem; because your batteries are decharching; thats ok. If you switch of some consumer amps and the voltage goes up to 24.2 or 24.6 V then your batteries are ok
Hanspeter
Tamango 2,
Athen, Greek

Von meinem iPhone gesendet

Am 14.06.2016 um 21:51 schrieb Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>:

 

Thank you Hanspeter,
My email is karkauai "at" yahoo "dot" com
The 8 100Ah series 27 lead acid batteries are set up as 4 pairs in series.  Each of these pairs is connected in parallel to two posts at the port side of the battery compartment.  The positive pole of each pair to the positive post, and the negative pole of each pair to the negative post (i.e. in parallel).  I have looked at this twice to confirm that I didn't connect one pair wrong.  A large cable goes from each post to the double pole switch on the foreward end of the battery compartment (marked "Service").
When I charge tonight, I will let it run longer than normal until I am only charging at about 1 Amp and see what the voltage is.  That's when you say it should be at 27.2-27.3V, correct?  In the interim I will look at the charging characteristics of my charger, and the discharge characteristics of the batteries.  I am sailing tomorrow, when I get to Curacao and get internet access again, I will let you know what I found.
Thanks again
Kent
SM 243
Kristy

On Jun 14, 2016, at 12:02 PM, 'hanspeter.baettig@...' hanspeter.baettig@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Kent
do you have the original Amel set up for your 8 115 AH Batteries Bank?
The floating Voltage should be 27.2 -27.3 V when Engine, Genset or Landpower or with the 24 V Alternator when motoring after lets say 6-8 hours or less depending on the charge level of the batteries.
Send a picture how the Batteries are connected to the charger; that means from what point of the batterie bank the two big cabels goes to the main batterie switches in the engine room. Unfortunately there are a lot of non professional info about batteries in this forum. I keep the ball down but I'm a Electric Engineer with quite a lot of know how about this subject. If you whish I can send you my email to support you.
regards
Hanspeter

Von meinem iPhone gesendet

Am 14.06.2016 um 17:19 schrieb Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>:

 

Hi all, thank you for your replies.

I have non-sealed batteries.  The water level is fine...I added less than a liter to all 8 batteries.  (that was Derick who added 2 gallons of water).  
The charger is set for flooded lead-acid batteries.  When the voltage is 24V, the charger voltage goes up to 26 v+/- and charges at 50-53 A for a short time, then amps slowly drop and the voltage increases as the batteries fill up. At float charge it reads 26v.  It acts like it is working properly, but I will look up the advertised charging characteristics for the lead-acid setting to see if it matches what I am seeing.

I don't have solar or wind yet.

The voltage and amperage I measure is the same as I am reading on my 24v monitor, but as I said earlier, when I look at the amperage going into each battery pair, one pair seems to be getting an amp more than the other pairs early in the charging cycle.

To me, it seems that the system acts like there is a much smaller Ah battery bank than the 400 Ah I should have.  I have checked all connections,  confirmed that all batteries in the bank are at the same voltage, and tested for CCA with my Solar (TM) battery tester.  The only anomalies I find are that one pair is charging at a higher rate than the others early in the charging cycle, and during discharge (charger off) two pairs are discharging at 1.6A, and two pairs at 0.6A.  That makes me think that either the connections are not all good (they all test No Resistance), or I have a bad battery or two (they all test the same with the battery tester).

During all phases of charging, there are no batteries that feel warm to the touch.

Thanks again
Kent




On Jun 14, 2016, at 10:33 AM, Bill Kinney greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Kent,


I’ll elaborate a bit on Bill R’s questions…  

The amount of water you are adding to your batteries is above normal.  Water does not leave a battery by evaporation, no matter how hot it is in the Caribbean! It leaves by being converted to hydrogen gas during the charging process.  The amount of water your batteries are using would lead me (and Bill R.  to guess your batteries are being overcharged.

Do all the individual batteries take the same amount of water?

Do you know what the acceptance and float voltages are for your charging system?

How are your solar panels controlled?

Bill Kinney
SM#160 Harmonie

On Jun 14, 2016, at 10:02, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


Kent,

Is the charger switched to match the charging characteristics of your batteries? Didn't you switch the type of batteries and the charger? Has a qualified person checked the charging characteristics...and, did he determine that the charger is actually outputting the correct charging characteristics?

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail

 

Kent,


Did you get sealed batteries?  If not, have you checked the fluid levels?  I just replaced my batteries with 12 Trojan SCS200 batteries (115AH) in January in Martinique.  Unlike my previous sealed batteries, I am able to/need to open the vents and add distilled water.  I found that even when new, water needed to be added to several of the cells.  In the last 5 months, I have checked the fluid levels twice and have added a total of about 2 gallons of distilled water!  The Caribbean is one hot place!!  I also have an indoor/outdoor thermometer installed in the battery compartment to monitor the temperature when the batteries are charging (thanks for the suggestion Bill Rouse).  The battery compartment usually stays a couple of degrees above ambient.

I will check them one more time before putting Brava up on the hard for hurricane season, leaving the solar power on to keep them topped up i n voltage but with only the freshwater pump and the bilge pump left in the on position.  The former will rinse the Dessalator membranes once a week for three minutes with fresh water from the tank.

It seems early in the life of your batteries to have to desulfate them, but maybe that would be worth a try.

Derick
SM2K#400 Brava




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] OLDER MARAMU REPOWERING WITH YANMAR 4JH4-HTE WATER INGRESS EXHAUST

James Alton
 

Alex,

   Thank you for your reply.  That is very interesting that your boat does not and apparently never had a siphon break for the raw water.  I have never seen a below waterline engine installation without one.  My Maramu is new to me and I have not yet had the time to explore all of the details of the engine compartment but I will be curious to see if my boat also lacks a siphon breaker.

   That is great to know that the footprint of even the 110hp Yanmar is smaller than the Perkins.

Best,

James

   

On Jun 14, 2016, at 8:16 PM, alex.paquin@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Hello James,

Thanks for your reply. I have no vent or anti-syphoning device in my exhaust system. The original Amel installation with the Perkins did not have one either. The Yanmar is definitely much a smaller footprint than the Perkins, and also 200 lbs lighter. The 4JH4-HTE is of course a 110 hp vis a vis the 62 hp of the 4154, which is probably not necessary, but in our case it was a question of availability at the location (the more logical choice is the 4JH4-TE, 75 hp). The fact that you are generating so much more energy with a smaller block, means that you need more efficient cooling and therefore, I guess the water flow in the Yanmar is much greater and this means that maybe the old exhaust system may not have enough capacity to handle it. One solution we are considering is to lower the muffler even further and make some more calculations.
Regards,
Alex



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: OLDER MARAMU REPOWERING WITH YANMAR 4JH4-HTE WATER INGRESS EXHAUST

Bob Grey
 

Hi Alex, same thing happened to me a months ago, motor salt water flooded the Kubota Onan motor, and it turned out the anti syphon hole in the top of the U pipe was blocked with rust, it was hidden away so couldn't see it wasn't flowing when the motor was running so I rerouted the exit hose so could see it easily. My main Volvo motor has an anti syphon exit in the scupper under the helm position so it's just a glance down through the grate to see the seawater jet, I'm thinking I should do the same for the Onan through the scupper pipe to make it easy to check both that the impeller is working well and the anti syphon hole is open.

Bob Grey
Renaissance 3

On Wednesday, June 15, 2016, 09:16, alex.paquin@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hello James,

Thanks for your reply. I have no vent or anti-syphoning device in my exhaust system. The original Amel installation with the Perkins did not have one either. The Yanmar is definitely much a smaller footprint than the Perkins, and also 200 lbs lighter. The 4JH4-HTE is of course a 110 hp vis a vis the 62 hp of the 4154, which is probably not necessary, but in our case it was a question of availability at the location (the more logical choice is the 4JH4-TE, 75 hp). The fact that you are generating so much more energy with a smaller block, means that you need more efficient cooling and therefore, I guess the water flow in the Yanmar is much greater and this means that maybe the old exhaust system may not have enough capacity to handle it. One solution we are considering is to lower the muffler even further and make some more calculations.
Regards,
Alex


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Blue Sea AC Multimeter Installation

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Good afternoon Gary,

Thank for checking on that.

Since you don’t write for the invoice on the check.
All I know is what I wrote on the invoice.

Thanks for your reply and research Gary,
I just look at the instruction I received and didn’t see any reference to extension. So thanks so much for downloading and researching it.

I remember reading about inverting the cable 4 & 5 if the Watt don’t show.

So, I should try to get/make a twisted wire as closed as the current size. if I happened to go larger, could be an issue?

Long day here, change oil, oil filter, both fuel filter and impeller on the Engine, then cleaning… one thing for sure, I couldn’t make a living doing oil change!

Once I receive the 250 V 1.0 amp fuse, I will proceed to the installation and be careful! When I was 8 in the Alp, I touch a 220 volt connection and I still remember it…

Thanks again for all your help! Being a visual person, Little by little, I hope to be able to illustrate all you wrote!
Also would love meeting you and have a tour of your SM2K, looking at the pictures of the Blue Sea device, looking at the other buttons, I can see the attention to detail.

Sincerely, Alexandre



--------------------------------------------

On Tue, 6/14/16, amelliahona <no_reply@...> wrote:

Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Blue Sea AC Multimeter Installation
To: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Tuesday, June 14, 2016, 11:09 AM


 









Alexandre:
I
downloaded and re-viewed the installation instructions for
this multimeter.  It does say that the wattmeter sensor
wires (twisted pair) can be extended up to 25 feet!
 
The polarity of the
wires isn't an issue for the amperage reading but is for
the watt reading.  It says that if you install it and the
amps reads ok but the watts doesn't then reverse the
polarity of the wires on the back of the multimeter. It also
confirmed that the twisted pair (as I suspected) is used to
limit RF (radio frequency) electric noise that can interfere
with other systems. 
Good luck and be careful with the
deadly voltages/currents on the 220 VAC
system. 
Gary S.
SilverSM #335









#yiv3469564738 #yiv3469564738 --
#yiv3469564738ygrp-mkp {
border:1px solid #d8d8d8;font-family:Arial;margin:10px
0;padding:0 10px;}

#yiv3469564738 #yiv3469564738ygrp-mkp hr {
border:1px solid #d8d8d8;}

#yiv3469564738 #yiv3469564738ygrp-mkp #yiv3469564738hd {
color:#628c2a;font-size:85%;font-weight:700;line-height:122%;margin:10px
0;}

#yiv3469564738 #yiv3469564738ygrp-mkp #yiv3469564738ads {
margin-bottom:10px;}

#yiv3469564738 #yiv3469564738ygrp-mkp .yiv3469564738ad {
padding:0 0;}

#yiv3469564738 #yiv3469564738ygrp-mkp .yiv3469564738ad p {
margin:0;}

#yiv3469564738 #yiv3469564738ygrp-mkp .yiv3469564738ad a {
color:#0000ff;text-decoration:none;}
#yiv3469564738 #yiv3469564738ygrp-sponsor
#yiv3469564738ygrp-lc {
font-family:Arial;}

#yiv3469564738 #yiv3469564738ygrp-sponsor
#yiv3469564738ygrp-lc #yiv3469564738hd {
margin:10px
0px;font-weight:700;font-size:78%;line-height:122%;}

#yiv3469564738 #yiv3469564738ygrp-sponsor
#yiv3469564738ygrp-lc .yiv3469564738ad {
margin-bottom:10px;padding:0 0;}

#yiv3469564738 #yiv3469564738actions {
font-family:Verdana;font-size:11px;padding:10px 0;}

#yiv3469564738 #yiv3469564738activity {
background-color:#e0ecee;float:left;font-family:Verdana;font-size:10px;padding:10px;}

#yiv3469564738 #yiv3469564738activity span {
font-weight:700;}

#yiv3469564738 #yiv3469564738activity span:first-child {
text-transform:uppercase;}

#yiv3469564738 #yiv3469564738activity span a {
color:#5085b6;text-decoration:none;}

#yiv3469564738 #yiv3469564738activity span span {
color:#ff7900;}

#yiv3469564738 #yiv3469564738activity span
.yiv3469564738underline {
text-decoration:underline;}

#yiv3469564738 .yiv3469564738attach {
clear:both;display:table;font-family:Arial;font-size:12px;padding:10px
0;width:400px;}

#yiv3469564738 .yiv3469564738attach div a {
text-decoration:none;}

#yiv3469564738 .yiv3469564738attach img {
border:none;padding-right:5px;}

#yiv3469564738 .yiv3469564738attach label {
display:block;margin-bottom:5px;}

#yiv3469564738 .yiv3469564738attach label a {
text-decoration:none;}

#yiv3469564738 blockquote {
margin:0 0 0 4px;}

#yiv3469564738 .yiv3469564738bold {
font-family:Arial;font-size:13px;font-weight:700;}

#yiv3469564738 .yiv3469564738bold a {
text-decoration:none;}

#yiv3469564738 dd.yiv3469564738last p a {
font-family:Verdana;font-weight:700;}

#yiv3469564738 dd.yiv3469564738last p span {
margin-right:10px;font-family:Verdana;font-weight:700;}

#yiv3469564738 dd.yiv3469564738last p
span.yiv3469564738yshortcuts {
margin-right:0;}

#yiv3469564738 div.yiv3469564738attach-table div div a {
text-decoration:none;}

#yiv3469564738 div.yiv3469564738attach-table {
width:400px;}

#yiv3469564738 div.yiv3469564738file-title a, #yiv3469564738
div.yiv3469564738file-title a:active, #yiv3469564738
div.yiv3469564738file-title a:hover, #yiv3469564738
div.yiv3469564738file-title a:visited {
text-decoration:none;}

#yiv3469564738 div.yiv3469564738photo-title a,
#yiv3469564738 div.yiv3469564738photo-title a:active,
#yiv3469564738 div.yiv3469564738photo-title a:hover,
#yiv3469564738 div.yiv3469564738photo-title a:visited {
text-decoration:none;}

#yiv3469564738 div#yiv3469564738ygrp-mlmsg
#yiv3469564738ygrp-msg p a span.yiv3469564738yshortcuts {
font-family:Verdana;font-size:10px;font-weight:normal;}

#yiv3469564738 .yiv3469564738green {
color:#628c2a;}

#yiv3469564738 .yiv3469564738MsoNormal {
margin:0 0 0 0;}

#yiv3469564738 o {
font-size:0;}

#yiv3469564738 #yiv3469564738photos div {
float:left;width:72px;}

#yiv3469564738 #yiv3469564738photos div div {
border:1px solid
#666666;height:62px;overflow:hidden;width:62px;}

#yiv3469564738 #yiv3469564738photos div label {
color:#666666;font-size:10px;overflow:hidden;text-align:center;white-space:nowrap;width:64px;}

#yiv3469564738 #yiv3469564738reco-category {
font-size:77%;}

#yiv3469564738 #yiv3469564738reco-desc {
font-size:77%;}

#yiv3469564738 .yiv3469564738replbq {
margin:4px;}

#yiv3469564738 #yiv3469564738ygrp-actbar div a:first-child {
margin-right:2px;padding-right:5px;}

#yiv3469564738 #yiv3469564738ygrp-mlmsg {
font-size:13px;font-family:Arial, helvetica, clean,
sans-serif;}

#yiv3469564738 #yiv3469564738ygrp-mlmsg table {
font-size:inherit;font:100%;}

#yiv3469564738 #yiv3469564738ygrp-mlmsg select,
#yiv3469564738 input, #yiv3469564738 textarea {
font:99% Arial, Helvetica, clean, sans-serif;}

#yiv3469564738 #yiv3469564738ygrp-mlmsg pre, #yiv3469564738
code {
font:115% monospace;}

#yiv3469564738 #yiv3469564738ygrp-mlmsg * {
line-height:1.22em;}

#yiv3469564738 #yiv3469564738ygrp-mlmsg #yiv3469564738logo {
padding-bottom:10px;}


#yiv3469564738 #yiv3469564738ygrp-msg p a {
font-family:Verdana;}

#yiv3469564738 #yiv3469564738ygrp-msg
p#yiv3469564738attach-count span {
color:#1E66AE;font-weight:700;}

#yiv3469564738 #yiv3469564738ygrp-reco
#yiv3469564738reco-head {
color:#ff7900;font-weight:700;}

#yiv3469564738 #yiv3469564738ygrp-reco {
margin-bottom:20px;padding:0px;}

#yiv3469564738 #yiv3469564738ygrp-sponsor #yiv3469564738ov
li a {
font-size:130%;text-decoration:none;}

#yiv3469564738 #yiv3469564738ygrp-sponsor #yiv3469564738ov
li {
font-size:77%;list-style-type:square;padding:6px 0;}

#yiv3469564738 #yiv3469564738ygrp-sponsor #yiv3469564738ov
ul {
margin:0;padding:0 0 0 8px;}

#yiv3469564738 #yiv3469564738ygrp-text {
font-family:Georgia;}

#yiv3469564738 #yiv3469564738ygrp-text p {
margin:0 0 1em 0;}

#yiv3469564738 #yiv3469564738ygrp-text tt {
font-size:120%;}

#yiv3469564738 #yiv3469564738ygrp-vital ul li:last-child {
border-right:none !important;
}
#yiv3469564738


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Batteries - What type house batteries to use & what voltage charge from Solar/Wind?

hanspeter baettig
 

Kent, the battery monitor on your boat is ok, since you have the same messurements on all your points you tested; dont worry. I will send you a email for more probleme solving for your case. And then we will post the results on the Amel Forum, ok?
Hanspeter
Tamango 2
SM 16
Athene

Von meinem iPad gesendet

Am 14.06.2016 um 22:16 schrieb Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>:

 

I have not checked the shunt, Hanspeter, maybe my battery monitor is giving me bad readings?  When I check with my multimeter, the voltage and amperage readings are the same as what the battery monitor shows, whether charging or discharging.
I will check the shunt connections next.  Difficult job since all cables have to be removed to get to it!
Kent
On Jun 14, 2016, at 12:36 PM, 'hanspeter.baettig@...' hanspeter.baettig@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

to check the right way the batteries; each batterie has to be disconnect from the bus. Then wait at least 8 hours to check each batterie with a professional Bat Tester which print you the real status of the individual batterie status. Also a hint. Clean the connection on the shunt. The Shunt is connected in the negative big bat cabel. Go for google to understand what a shunt is for. To find out where your shunt is, look in your Amel Technical Manuals.
Hanspeter

Von meinem iPhone gesendet

Am 14.06.2016 um 17:46 schrieb 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>:

 

Did you totally disconnect each battery when testing it? Also, I think I read somewhere that when testing batteries they should be off of the charger for 30 minutes. I am not sure about this, but this is what I do.

An internal short will account for a battery taking more from the charger, but your tester should identify a short.

Somewhere else I believe that I read that some batteries in a bank will discharge more than others, resulting in those needing more charge...google for this or maybe ask a marine battery expert.

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail

On Jun 14, 2016 11:19 AM, "Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi all, thank you for your replies.

I have non-sealed batteries.  The water level is fine...I added less than a liter to all 8 batteries.  (that was Derick who added 2 gallons of water).  
The charger is set for flooded lead-acid batteries.  When the voltage is 24V, the charger voltage goes up to 26 v+/- and charges at 50-53 A for a short time, then amps slowly drop and the voltage increases as the batteries fill up. At float charge it reads 26v.  It acts like it is working properly, but I will look up the advertised charging characteristics for the lead-acid setting to see if it matches what I am seeing.

I don't have solar or wind yet.

The voltage and amperage I measure is the same as I am reading on my 24v monitor, but as I said earlier, when I look at the amperage going into each battery pair, one pair seems to be getting an amp more than the other pairs early in the charging cycle.

To me, it seems that the system acts like there is a much smaller Ah battery bank than the 400 Ah I should have.  I have checked all connections,  confirmed that all batteries in the bank are at the same voltage, and tested for CCA with my Solar (TM) battery tester.  The only anomalies I find are that one pair is charging at a higher rate than the others early in the charging cycle, and during discharge (charger off) two pairs are discharging at 1.6A, and two pairs at 0.6A.  That makes me think that either the connections are not all good (they all test No Resistance), or I have a bad battery or two (they all test the same with the battery tester).

During all phases of charging, there are no batteries that feel warm to the touch.

Thanks again
Kent




On Jun 14, 2016, at 10:33 AM, Bill Kinney greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Kent,


I’ll elaborate a bit on Bill R’s questions…  

The amount of water you are adding to your batteries is above normal.  Water does not leave a battery by evaporation, no matter how hot it is in the Caribbean! It leaves by being converted to hydrogen gas during the charging process.  The amount of water your batteries are using would lead me (and Bill R.  to guess your batteries are being overcharged.

Do all the individual batteries take the same amount of water?

Do you know what the acceptance and float voltages are for your charging system?

How are your solar panels controlled?

Bill Kinney
SM#160 Harmonie

On Jun 14, 2016, at 10:02, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


Kent,

Is the charger switched to match the charging characteristics of your batteries? Didn't you switch the type of batteries and the charger? Has a qualified person checked the charging characteristics...and, did he determine that the charger is actually outputting the correct charging characteristics?

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail

 

Kent,


Did you get sealed batteries?  If not, have you checked the fluid levels?  I just replaced my batteries with 12 Trojan SCS200 batteries (115AH) in January in Martinique.  Unlike my previous sealed batteries, I am able to/need to open the vents and add distilled water.  I found that even when new, water needed to be added to several of the cells.  In the last 5 months, I have checked the fluid levels twice and have added a total of about 2 gallons of distilled water!  The Caribbean is one hot place!!  I also have an indoor/outdoor thermometer installed in the battery compartment to monitor the temperature when the batteries are charging (thanks for the suggestion Bill Rouse).  The battery compartment usually stays a couple of degrees above ambient.

I will check them one more time before putting Brava up on the hard for hurricane season, leaving the solar power on to keep them topped up i n voltage but with only the freshwater pump and the bilge pump left in the on position.  The former will rinse the Dessalator membranes once a week for three minutes with fresh water from the tank.

It seems early in the life of your batteries to have to desulfate them, but maybe that would be worth a try.

Derick
SM2K#400 Brava




Re: OLDER MARAMU REPOWERING WITH YANMAR 4JH4-HTE WATER INGRESS EXHAUST

Alejandro Paquin
 

Hello James,
Thanks for your reply. I have no vent or anti-syphoning device in my exhaust system. The original Amel installation with the Perkins did not have one either. The Yanmar is definitely much a smaller footprint than the Perkins, and also 200 lbs lighter. The 4JH4-HTE is of course a 110 hp vis a vis the 62 hp of the 4154, which is probably not necessary, but in our case it was a question of availability at the location (the more logical choice is the 4JH4-TE, 75 hp). The fact that you are generating so much more energy with a smaller block, means that you need more efficient cooling and therefore, I guess the water flow in the Yanmar is much greater and this means that maybe the old exhaust system may not have enough capacity to handle it. One solution we are considering is to lower the muffler even further and make some more calculations.
Regards,
Alex