Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: bow thruster service. Problem

karkauai
 

Hi Jim,
If everything with the shaft and motor looked OK, it almost had to be coming out at an angle rather than straight down???  Had the shaft and splines cleared the motor when it jammed?
I'd sure like to know what happened.
Kent
SM 243
Kristy


On Jun 23, 2016, at 1:03 PM, capt.anderson@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Thank you, Alexandre & Bill. Two of my three questions are now answered: It is normal to have to trim the 2 seals on the trunk, and my prop wont come off because the 6 nylon screws secure it to a hub and one must pull the pin out of the hub to remove it and expose the prop shaft lip seal. A picture is worth a thousand words, thanks, Alexandre!

I still am baffled by my first question. Upon easily separating the thruster shaft from the clean and well-greased motor, if let go the whole foot would either fall out the bottom of the boat or down to the temporary retaining hose clamp (which I installed about 2" from the very top of the shaft). Mine didn't. It stopped before reaching the hose clamp, with 4" of shaft still sticking up. much force, simultaneous from me above and the diver below, was required to get the shaft to go the remaining 4" to come out the bottom of the boat. I am worried that during re-assembly the shaft will again become stuck, leaving the tape between the special tool and the shaft underwater for an extended time.

Thanks very much for your help,

Jim
SM384 Sirena Azul
Seattle


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Anchor Wash Pump

karkauai
 

Hi JP.  I'm at the dock at Curaçao Yacht Club for a few days, then back out in Spanish Water on the anchor.
Kent

On Jun 23, 2016, at 1:51 PM, Jean-Pierre Germain jgermain@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Kent,

We have the duo 100 and it is fine. Having lived in Aruba for some years, I agree with the dust comment. However, come December you should get plenty of fresh water. Where are you?

JPG
Eleuthera SM 007




On 23 Jun 2016, at 14:57, Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi JP.  I would like to have that setup, but I have two issues:

On Kristy (SM243) the anchor wash pump is supplied with SW from a thru-hull inboard of the forward head (in the "hallway" between the head and hanging locker).  That would mean running a new hose from the FW tank through the bulkhead.

If that's not daunting enough, I have the 60 l/h watermaker, so I don't have enough capacity to justify washing the boat and chain with FW.

Too bad, here in the ABCs...there is constant accumulation of dust from the dry islands and has been a plume of dust from the Sahara adding to the problem since I arrived.  It has only sprinkled a few times in a month which turns the dust to mud.  I've been washing down w SW every few days to keep the cockpit and down below as dirt free as possible.  Even if I had the FW wash down I don't think I'd like to make water in the bay as there are no pump out facilities and I regularly smell black water being dumped.

If my Watermaker dies I will seriously consider replacing it with the duo.
Kent


On Jun 23, 2016, at 7:53 AM, Jean-Pierre Germain jgermain@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

We improved Eleuthera by removing the SW pump and connecting directly to the FW network. But... you need a good water maker.

JPG
Eleuthera, SM 007


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Anchor Wash Pump

Jean-Pierre Germain <jgermain@...>
 

Hi Kent,

We have the duo 100 and it is fine. Having lived in Aruba for some years, I agree with the dust comment. However, come December you should get plenty of fresh water. Where are you?

JPG
Eleuthera SM 007




On 23 Jun 2016, at 14:57, Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi JP.  I would like to have that setup, but I have two issues:

On Kristy (SM243) the anchor wash pump is supplied with SW from a thru-hull inboard of the forward head (in the "hallway" between the head and hanging locker).  That would mean running a new hose from the FW tank through the bulkhead.

If that's not daunting enough, I have the 60 l/h watermaker, so I don't have enough capacity to justify washing the boat and chain with FW.

Too bad, here in the ABCs...there is constant accumulation of dust from the dry islands and has been a plume of dust from the Sahara adding to the problem since I arrived.  It has only sprinkled a few times in a month which turns the dust to mud.  I've been washing down w SW every few days to keep the cockpit and down below as dirt free as possible.  Even if I had the FW wash down I don't think I'd like to make water in the bay as there are no pump out facilities and I regularly smell black water being dumped.

If my Watermaker dies I will seriously consider replacing it with the duo.
Kent


On Jun 23, 2016, at 7:53 AM, Jean-Pierre Germain jgermain@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

We improved Eleuthera by removing the SW pump and connecting directly to the FW network. But... you need a good water maker.

JPG
Eleuthera, SM 007


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: bow thruster service. Problem

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

I am a visual person myself, so try to illustrate what Bill, Gary, etc. have describe.

The problem of the 1st question doesn’t make sense to me… the shaft has the same size… going through a seal, so why should there be resistance?

Are you sure there was nothing in the water to block it?
Did you lower it straight down? not at an angle?

Unless Bill says otherwise, put lots of grease like on picture:
http://nikimat.com/bow_thruster_overhaul/bow_thruster_overhaul_76.jpg
This will help water getting in.

Good luck, please keep us posted of what you find…

Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Club Nautico de San Juan, Puerto Rico





--------------------------------------------

On Thu, 6/23/16, capt.anderson@gmail.com [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: bow thruster service. Problem
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Thursday, June 23, 2016, 12:03 PM


 









Thank you, Alexandre & Bill. Two of my three
questions are now answered: It is normal to have to trim the
2 seals on the trunk, and my prop wont come off because the
6 nylon screws secure it to a hub and one must pull the pin
out of the hub to remove it and expose the prop shaft lip
seal. A picture is worth a thousand words, thanks,
Alexandre!

I still am
baffled by my first question. Upon easily separating the
thruster shaft from the clean and well-greased motor, if let
go the whole foot would either fall out the bottom of the
boat or down to the temporary retaining hose clamp (which I
installed about 2" from the very top of the shaft).
Mine didn't. It stopped before reaching the hose clamp,
with 4" of shaft still sticking up. much force,
simultaneous from me above and the diver below, was required
to get the shaft to go the remaining 4" to come out the
bottom of the boat. I am worried that during re-assembly the
shaft will again become stuck, leaving the tape between the
special tool and the shaft underwater for an extended
time.

Thanks very much for
your help,

Jim
SM384 Sirena Azul
Seattle









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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: bow thruster service. Problem

Jim Anderson
 

Thank you, Alexandre & Bill. Two of my three questions are now answered: It is normal to have to trim the 2 seals on the trunk, and my prop wont come off because the 6 nylon screws secure it to a hub and one must pull the pin out of the hub to remove it and expose the prop shaft lip seal. A picture is worth a thousand words, thanks, Alexandre!

I still am baffled by my first question. Upon easily separating the thruster shaft from the clean and well-greased motor, if let go the whole foot would either fall out the bottom of the boat or down to the temporary retaining hose clamp (which I installed about 2" from the very top of the shaft). Mine didn't. It stopped before reaching the hose clamp, with 4" of shaft still sticking up. much force, simultaneous from me above and the diver below, was required to get the shaft to go the remaining 4" to come out the bottom of the boat. I am worried that during re-assembly the shaft will again become stuck, leaving the tape between the special tool and the shaft underwater for an extended time.

Thanks very much for your help,

Jim
SM384 Sirena Azul
Seattle


Re: 24V Watermaker

rossirossix4
 

HI  Barry,
Regarding your comment when you said  "This does not make sense!  Why would you deplete your stored energy in your batteries to run a 24 volt motor on your water maker."  The answer is that I would not.  Please re-read my post where I say " It would be great to be able to make water while motoring or with solar"  In neither situation would my batteries necessarily be depleted.  I have considerable excess solar capacity during the day.  There is an excess of amp hours available because my solar system commonly tops up my house bank (SM Redline) by about noon.  Following this, measured unused capacity from the solar panels is substantial--equaling or exceeding 10 amps at 27+V (my solar capacity is pretty high) .   Also, like most Amel owners I have a high capacity (stock) alternator on my engine.  Its capacity is underutilized when motoring for extended periods because, again, the batteries are topped off drawing only a few amps and only 10 amps or so are used for refridge, autopilot and LED lighting, etc.  No question, the 220 AC Dessalator is very good, and you are quite right, I would not trade it for the 24V only system that you are complaining about, but the capacity to make fresh water with both 24 and 220 is desirable for some of us and need not be at the expense of depleting batteries (and running the generator to charge them back up).
Cheers,
Bob, KAIMI SM429
At Anchor, Gocek Turkey--Haven't run my generator for 2 weeks  

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Anchor Wash Pump

karkauai
 

Thanks



On Jun 23, 2016, at 7:07 AM, osterberg.paul.l@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Loctite 577 thread sealant was what we used, very expensive, but it works

Paul on S/Y KERPA SM#259


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Anchor Wash Pump

karkauai
 

Hi JP.  I would like to have that setup, but I have two issues:

On Kristy (SM243) the anchor wash pump is supplied with SW from a thru-hull inboard of the forward head (in the "hallway" between the head and hanging locker).  That would mean running a new hose from the FW tank through the bulkhead.

If that's not daunting enough, I have the 60 l/h watermaker, so I don't have enough capacity to justify washing the boat and chain with FW.

Too bad, here in the ABCs...there is constant accumulation of dust from the dry islands and has been a plume of dust from the Sahara adding to the problem since I arrived.  It has only sprinkled a few times in a month which turns the dust to mud.  I've been washing down w SW every few days to keep the cockpit and down below as dirt free as possible.  Even if I had the FW wash down I don't think I'd like to make water in the bay as there are no pump out facilities and I regularly smell black water being dumped.

If my Watermaker dies I will seriously consider replacing it with the duo.
Kent


On Jun 23, 2016, at 7:53 AM, Jean-Pierre Germain jgermain@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

We improved Eleuthera by removing the SW pump and connecting directly to the FW network. But... you need a good water maker.

JPG
Eleuthera, SM 007


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Anchor Wash Pump

Jean-Pierre Germain <jgermain@...>
 

We improved Eleuthera by removing the SW pump and connecting directly to the FW network. But... you need a good water maker.

JPG
Eleuthera, SM 007



On 23 Jun 2016, at 02:43, Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Danki (Papiamento for Thank You), Paul.  I'm going to try using an Oring first.  If that doesn't work, I'll use locktite or something like that.  On this pump both the threaded hose barb and the housing are plastic.  Does locktite work on plastics?
Kent
SM243
Kristy 


On Jun 22, 2016, at 2:02 PM, osterberg.paul.l@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

We used Loctite for plumbing after that no leak
Paul on SYKerpa SM 259


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: 24V Watermaker

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Barry & Robyn,

Those Amel owners that have these Dessalator DUO systems normally run the 24VDC system when motoring.

I agree that I would not change from the 160 liter to the DUO because when at anchor, and even with alternate charging systems like solar panels, you will find at least 3 hours a week to run the generator. And, 3 hours of the 160 liter produces all of the water that 2 people will use in a week including showers, washing dishes and clothes washing 2-3 loads. We average about 55 liters a day including everything. If you run the generator for 3 hours you can certainly top-off your batteries once a week to 100%. 

We traditionally have done this on Thursdays: Run the Generator, Wash 2-3 loads of clothes, charge the batteries, make water. We have to be careful not to use any other electrical device such as the Microwave or Hair Dryer when doing this. Also. we will ONLY wash clothes with heated water and run the water heater in the last hour because we try not to exceed the capacity of the generator. By the last hour the 100 amp 24VDC battery charger is only pulling a few amps. 
  • Dessalator 160 pulls 15 amps
  • Water heater about 3 amps
  • Clothes washer without hot water setting about 2 amps, but 10 amps with hot water. 
  • The 100 amp charger will pull about 9 amps with the batteries at 75-80%. 
  • The top capacity of the generator is 30 amps. I use 27 amps as my top.
It helps to have an amp meter installed to monitor this.

To me, a prejudiced and very happy 160 liter owner, the best and only solution is the 160 Liter Dessalator water maker. If I did not own a capable generator, I might sing a different tune.

Bill
BeBe 387
Grenada for a few more days 

On Thu, Jun 23, 2016 at 8:16 AM, seagasm@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

This does not make sense!


Why would you deplete your stored energy in your batteries to run a 24 volt motor on your water maker. If you managed your water storage enough, you would be utilizing your genset output each day to top up your water using your 110/240VAC motor while replenishing your battery capacity at the same time.

I have a 24VDC motor on my Dessalator and I would gladly swap it for a 240VAC motor. Ridiculous as it may sound, the amperage used to run a 24VDC motor has to be replenished by running the Genset to keep the batteries topped up. Needless to say, I run my Genset while making water and charging my batteries at the same time.

Kind Regards
< div>Barry & Robyn

Tradewinds III SM #171

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: bow thruster service. Problem

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Jim,

You did not say that you looked up at the bottom of the motor.  It probably looks like this: https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/amelyachtowners/photos/albums/1587075684/lightbox/549533960?orderBy=ordinal&sortOrder=asc&photoFilter=ALL#zax/549533960

As the cast iron electric motor housing oxidizes because of salt water, the rust causes a reduction in size of the tube connection, freezing the tube to the motor housing. Take a camera and point it up at the bottom of the motor and see if you get something similar to the above.

Clean the oxidation very well and use wet dry sand paper on the inside wall. Then grease this entire area with waterproof grease...also same grease for the end of the tube that inserts into the motor housing.

Take a look at Alex's photos on a rebuild of the bow thruster at http://nikimat.com/bow_thruster_overhaul.html
You will see that the bow thruster propeller shaft is behind the white Delrin propeller hub.

You need to slightly trim the external (2) neoprene seals to fit.

Hope this helps.

Bill
BeBe 387
Currently Grenada



On Thu, Jun 23, 2016 at 4:11 AM, capt.anderson@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Perfect timing on this topic for me. Thanks in advance for any help with the following questions. Please forgive me for demonstrating ineptitude as I chime in with a few questions:

 

1. When doing the in-the-water service today on SM384, as per Gary Silver’s instructions & Bill Rouse’s additional notes, after removing the four hex-head screws that secure the Thruster Shaft Housing to the Motor, the shaft would not drop all the way down and out the bottom of the boat. It stopped a good 2” above the “stopper” hose clamp. After installing the Amel Special Tool initially I could lift the shaft up and down but after trying to ram it downwards it stuck and wouldn’t budge up or down. I had to hire a diver. After much pulling and wiggling the diver finally got the shaft to come out. Upon inspection of the foot, shaft and the diver’s inspection of the Thruster Trunk nothing looked unusual. Any ideas what might have caused this?

I am hoping I won’t encounter the same problem with the shaft getting stuck when trying to put it back in tomorrow.

 

2. The diameter of the two neoprene seals on the Thruster Foot is larger than the width of the foot on one side and would over-hang on one side, except the excess was trimmed off with a razor knife. (Photo posted at: https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/amelyachtowners/photos/albums/1196149903

The Amel-supplied replacements are identical and will need have the over-hang trimmed off too if they are not to over-hang.  Is this normal? (Last service, seals in photo done by Amel Martinique.)

 

3. Where is the Prop Shaft Lip Seal? Is it in the hub of the propeller, flush with the 6 nylon screws that hold the prop on, or is it behind the prop in the foot? I removed the 6 nylon screws from the prop but it will not come off.  The seal in the hub of the prop, flush with the nylon screws, is smaller than the Amel-supplied prop shaft seal so I presume the lip seal is in the trunk behind the prop. If so, any suggestions on how to get the prop off with the 6 nylon screws removed?


Again, thanks for any help and please forgive me for demonstrating my ignorance.


Jim

SM384 Sirena Azul

Seattle



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Anchor Wash Pump

Paul Osterberg
 

Loctite 577 thread sealant was what we used, very expensive, but it works
Paul on S/Y KERPA SM#259


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: bow thruster service. Problem

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Good morning Jim,

1) I did 3 times the bow thruster overall and it never happened to me, unless I am not understanding the question…
You did not keep the stopper to make the Thruster shaft going through the seal did you?

Here are pictures I took, it if helps: http://nikimat.com/bow_thruster_overhaul.html


2) Being cut is normal, I think a slightly better job could have been done cutting the foam.

3) The prop shaft lip seal in under the propeller hub, here is the picture:
http://nikimat.com/bow_thruster_overhaul/bow_thruster_overhaul_22.jpg

You will need to be “VERY” careful using 3 tiny screw to pull it out. You don’t want to damage the food of the bow thruster.
Look at my pictures. I think it will make sense.

Sincerely, Alexandre





--------------------------------------------

On Wed, 6/22/16, capt.anderson@gmail.com [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: bow thruster service. Problem
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Wednesday, June 22, 2016, 11:11 PM


 











Perfect timing on
this topic for me. Thanks in advance
for any help with the following questions. Please forgive me
for demonstrating
ineptitude as I chime in with a few questions:

 

1. When doing the
in-the-water service today on SM384, as
per Gary Silver’s instructions & Bill Rouse’s
additional notes, after
removing the four hex-head screws that secure the Thruster
Shaft Housing to the
Motor, the shaft would not drop all the way down and out the
bottom of the boat.
It stopped a good 2” above the “stopper” hose clamp.
After installing the Amel
Special Tool initially I could lift the shaft up and down
but after trying to
ram it downwards it stuck and wouldn’t budge up or down. I
had to hire a diver.
After much pulling and wiggling the diver finally got the
shaft to come out.
Upon inspection of the foot, shaft and the diver’s
inspection of the Thruster
Trunk nothing looked unusual. Any ideas what might have
caused this?

I am hoping I won’t
encounter the same problem with the
shaft getting stuck when trying to put it back in
tomorrow.

 

2. The diameter of the
two neoprene seals on the Thruster
Foot is larger than the width of the foot on one side and
would over-hang on
one side, except the excess was trimmed off with a razor
knife. (Photo posted
at: https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/amelyachtowners/photos/albums/1196149903

The Amel-supplied
replacements are identical and will
need have the over-hang trimmed off too if they are not to
over-hang.  Is this normal? (Last service,
seals in photo
done by Amel Martinique.)

 

3. Where is the Prop
Shaft Lip Seal? Is it in the hub of
the propeller, flush with the 6 nylon screws that hold the
prop on, or is it
behind the prop in the foot? I removed the 6 nylon screws
from the prop but it
will not come off.  The seal in the hub
of the prop, flush with the nylon screws, is smaller than
the Amel-supplied prop shaft seal so I presume the
lip seal is in the trunk behind the prop. If so, any
suggestions on how to get
the prop off with the 6 nylon screws removed?
Again, thanks for any help
and please forgive me for demonstrating my ignorance.
JimSM384 Sirena AzulSeattle










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Re: 24V Watermaker

seagasm@...
 

This does not make sense!

Why would you deplete your stored energy in your batteries to run a 24 volt motor on your water maker. If you managed your water storage enough, you would be utilizing your genset output each day to top up your water using your 110/240VAC motor while replenishing your battery capacity at the same time.

I have a 24VDC motor on my Dessalator and I would gladly swap it for a 240VAC motor. Ridiculous as it may sound, the amperage used to run a 24VDC motor has to be replenished by running the Genset to keep the batteries topped up. Needless to say, I run my Genset while making water and charging my batteries at the same time.

Kind Regards
Barry & Robyn
Tradewinds III SM #171

 


Re: 24V Watermaker

Walter
 

Hi Bob,

Noa (SM2K #436) has the same setup as Elise, dessalator duo 60. The hp pump is driven via belt, either by 220V AC motor or by 24V DC motor, a compact and reliable setup. We use 24V DC when under motor, AC when running the genset. Dessalator specofies the 24V motor with 550W/18A, a bit more when starting. A dessalator 160 has a more powerful or faster running hp pump and the pump is driven directly by the AC motor, so, beside connecting problems, you´ll need a bigger 24V DC motor. The AC motor of the 160 dessalator is 2,2KW, so a DC motor will draw around 90+A, a bit more when starting. Quite substantial amount and difficult to get out of solar or wind power. To my knowledge dessalator doesn´t sell converting kits for the 160, maybe due to the data mentioned above.

Regards,
Walter (Noa, SM2K #436)


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: bow thruster service. Problem

Jim Anderson
 

Perfect timing on this topic for me. Thanks in advance for any help with the following questions. Please forgive me for demonstrating ineptitude as I chime in with a few questions:

 

1. When doing the in-the-water service today on SM384, as per Gary Silver’s instructions & Bill Rouse’s additional notes, after removing the four hex-head screws that secure the Thruster Shaft Housing to the Motor, the shaft would not drop all the way down and out the bottom of the boat. It stopped a good 2” above the “stopper” hose clamp. After installing the Amel Special Tool initially I could lift the shaft up and down but after trying to ram it downwards it stuck and wouldn’t budge up or down. I had to hire a diver. After much pulling and wiggling the diver finally got the shaft to come out. Upon inspection of the foot, shaft and the diver’s inspection of the Thruster Trunk nothing looked unusual. Any ideas what might have caused this?

I am hoping I won’t encounter the same problem with the shaft getting stuck when trying to put it back in tomorrow.

 

2. The diameter of the two neoprene seals on the Thruster Foot is larger than the width of the foot on one side and would over-hang on one side, except the excess was trimmed off with a razor knife. (Photo posted at: https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/amelyachtowners/photos/albums/1196149903

The Amel-supplied replacements are identical and will need have the over-hang trimmed off too if they are not to over-hang.  Is this normal? (Last service, seals in photo done by Amel Martinique.)

 

3. Where is the Prop Shaft Lip Seal? Is it in the hub of the propeller, flush with the 6 nylon screws that hold the prop on, or is it behind the prop in the foot? I removed the 6 nylon screws from the prop but it will not come off.  The seal in the hub of the prop, flush with the nylon screws, is smaller than the Amel-supplied prop shaft seal so I presume the lip seal is in the trunk behind the prop. If so, any suggestions on how to get the prop off with the 6 nylon screws removed?


Again, thanks for any help and please forgive me for demonstrating my ignorance.


Jim

SM384 Sirena Azul

Seattle


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Anchor Wash Pump

karkauai
 

Danki (Papiamento for Thank You), Paul.  I'm going to try using an Oring first.  If that doesn't work, I'll use locktite or something like that.  On this pump both the threaded hose barb and the housing are plastic.  Does locktite work on plastics?
Kent
SM243
Kristy 


On Jun 22, 2016, at 2:02 PM, osterberg.paul.l@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

We used Loctite for plumbing after that no leak
Paul on SYKerpa SM 259


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Santorin Bow Thruster Amperage Draw

James Alton
 

Craig,

  You could compare the voltage drop at the battery terminals as compared to the motor terminals to get some idea of how much of the drop is in the cables.  It is possible that you may find that your batteries are a bit weak.  If you determine that a large part of this voltage drop is in the wiring, check all of the connections carefully.  Any connection with a high resistance will heat up with that much current and would feel warm or hot to the touch after running the thruster for several seconds.   If your batteries are holding their voltage well, and you are starting at 12.5 volts, you are dissipating 3.5 volts x 245 amps or 857 watts in resistance…a lot of power hence the heating.   This information is general in nature since my Amel experience is just beginning.

Best of luck,

James

Maramu #220 Sueno

On Jun 22, 2016, at 3:05 PM, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


Craig,

Check this out: https://www.easycalculation.com/physics/classical-physics/hp-to-amps.php

I think you are in the ballpark. 

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail

On Jun 21, 2016 11:39 PM, "sangaris@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Can any Santorin owners give me a bench mark for how many amps their bow thruster draws? 

Mine is showing 245 Amps after about 3 or 4 seconds of operation and stays constant with continued operation. 


This is with about 1500 rpm on the engine, generating about 35 amps before engaging the bow thruster (it is the original 70 amp Perkins alternator). The system voltage drops to 9 volts during this.  


The bow thruster does work perfectly through all this - I am just suspicious about the old wires/cables losing ampacity after some 24 years and one nearby lightning hit. On the other hand, this may be perfectly normal.  


I'd appreciate hearing if this is normal for the Santorin.


Thanks, 

Craig Briggs, SN#68, Sangaris





Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: bow thruster service. Problem

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

The foam seals on the SM are placed 2 outside and one inside. The outside foam helps seal water when the bow thruster is retracted. The inside seal helps seal water when the bow thruster us in use. The primary seal is the lip seal on the tube.

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail

On Jun 22, 2016 4:09 PM, "rossienio@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

The shaft of the Santorin BT has a diameter of 59-60mm, as I believe that of the SM, then the foam seals are the same?  Then why it says here (3D Bow thruster) that it should be put on the SM 3 outside? Excuse me, but I want to avoid any leakage of water, and I am not at all experienced. regards. enio 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: bow thruster service. Problem

rossienio@...
 

The shaft of the Santorin BT has a diameter of 59-60mm, as I believe that of the SM, then the foam seals are the same?  Then why it says here (3D Bow thruster) that it should be put on the SM 3 outside? Excuse me, but I want to avoid any leakage of water, and I am not at all experienced. regards. enio