Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Solar panels for SM

Colin - ex SV Island Pearl
 

Hi Ian & Judy

We had Riza (Emek) make our davits and are completely happy with them as they are far nicer looking than anything else we have seen ever and the price was good too. I doubt you will have equally nice ones made any cheaper. He shipped ours to Australia and it was not difficult to have them welded together and fitted locally.

There are many options for size of panels. You would need to decide on that first and provide the correct measurements. We went with 2 x 260w (34v) panels run in series through a Tracer MPPT with MT50 display so have 520w optimised as it is in series. We ideally wanted 600w but find 520w quite adequate as we typically get 10 amp hrs x 26v in winter and up to 20 amp hrs x 26v peak in summer so rarely ever run the generator now, although in our case we are not cruising full time yet.

Good luck with it. You will not regret getting a good large solar system on board. It has certainly transformed our boat.

Colin & Lauren Streeter
Island Pearl II, aMEL 53 #332
Brisbane



On Fri, Jul 1, 2016 at 11:31 PM, Ian & Judy ianjudyjenkins@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

 Hi all solar users,


We were planning to visit Emek in Turkey for one of their solar arches. Discretion being the better part of valour we have postponed that trip. We have so many photos of their arches that we can get one built elsewhere.


The question I would be interested in having answered is:


What are the appropriate  dimensions and output of solar panels  for an SM arch ?


Every yottie we speak to raves about their own panels and advises us  to go as big as we can; however, some boats  ( in general, not Amels)look overwhelmed by outsized panels, others look to have been too conservative. Clearly there is a balance of output versus aesthetics .


Any views will be very welcome.


Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302 , Greece ( 37c and very sunny )




--
Colin Streeter
0411 016 445


Solar panels for SM

ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 

 Hi all solar users,


We were planning to visit Emek in Turkey for one of their solar arches. Discretion being the better part of valour we have postponed that trip. We have so many photos of their arches that we can get one built elsewhere.


The question I would be interested in having answered is:


What are the appropriate  dimensions and output of solar panels  for an SM arch ?


Every yottie we speak to raves about their own panels and advises us  to go as big as we can; however, some boats  ( in general, not Amels)look overwhelmed by outsized panels, others look to have been too conservative. Clearly there is a balance of output versus aesthetics .


Any views will be very welcome.


Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302 , Greece ( 37c and very sunny )


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow Thruster Motor Repair and Main Relay

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Andrew & Kent,

I think mine is in a different place with access under the port berth, but I cannot get there right now...granddaughter, BeBe, is asleep on that berth. Will report back when the princess wakes!

Bill 
BeBe 387
Trinidad

On Fri, Jul 1, 2016 at 11:58 AM, Andrew Lamb andrew.lamb@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi Kent

It is bolted on the inside of the wall of the bow thruster compartment on the upper port side of the frame that supports the bow thruster assembly.

Andrew
SM 472


On 1 Jul 2016, at 13:46, Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Bill,
Where is the bow thruster solenoid?
Thanks 
Kent
SM243
Kristy


On Jul 1, 2016, at 6:42 AM, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Andrew,

I know of one other owner who had the same problem with their bow thruster motor. They had Amel in Martinique ship the motor to Amel La Rochelle, who shipped it to some unknown place for rebuild. The total cost was between 3,000 and 4,000 Euros!

When you have a chance please share your information, because even though it is located in Perpignan, France, it may be a solution for boats located elsewhere.

It is interesting that he suggested a possible cause might be the bow thruster solenoid switch. I had not considered that too much resistance in the solenoid would cause damage to the motor and communicator, but I now understand how it could. I do not know the specs of the thruster relay on a SM. I can't get to mine right now and will look later. I suspect that I will find some numbers on it that I will search.

Regarding your batteries, they can be checked for internal shorts and load-checked. I am sure that you know that most battery suppliers will provide this service.

Thanks,

Bill BeBe 387
Trinidad

On Fri, Jul 1, 2016 at 8:36 AM, Andrew Lamb andrew.lamb@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi

 

So I managed to find a local motor engineering workshop near Perpignan that specialise in repairing and reconditioning motors (lift motors, wind generators, etc) they have completely rebuilt the main bow thruster motor including changing the commutator the whole unit looks brand new now! He strongly advised me to also change the boat batteries and bow thruster relay to eliminate all possible causes of the problem. Does anyone know the specifications of the main bow thruster motor relay?

 

Andrew

 

Ronpische

SM 472

Canet en Roussillon

__.



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow Thruster Motor Repair and Main Relay

Andrew & Kate Lamb
 

Hi Kent

It is bolted on the inside of the wall of the bow thruster compartment on the upper port side of the frame that supports the bow thruster assembly.

Andrew
SM 472


On 1 Jul 2016, at 13:46, Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Bill,
Where is the bow thruster solenoid?
Thanks 
Kent
SM243
Kristy


On Jul 1, 2016, at 6:42 AM, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Andrew,

I know of one other owner who had the same problem with their bow thruster motor. They had Amel in Martinique ship the motor to Amel La Rochelle, who shipped it to some unknown place for rebuild. The total cost was between 3,000 and 4,000 Euros!

When you have a chance please share your information, because even though it is located in Perpignan, France, it may be a solution for boats located elsewhere.

It is interesting that he suggested a possible cause might be the bow thruster solenoid switch. I had not considered that too much resistance in the solenoid would cause damage to the motor and communicator, but I now understand how it could. I do not know the specs of the thruster relay on a SM. I can't get to mine right now and will look later. I suspect that I will find some numbers on it that I will search.

Regarding your batteries, they can be checked for internal shorts and load-checked. I am sure that you know that most battery suppliers will provide this service.

Thanks,

Bill BeBe 387
Trinidad

On Fri, Jul 1, 2016 at 8:36 AM, Andrew Lamb andrew.lamb@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi

 

So I managed to find a local motor engineering workshop near Perpignan that specialise in repairing and reconditioning motors (lift motors, wind generators, etc) they have completely rebuilt the main bow thruster motor including changing the commutator the whole unit looks brand new now! He strongly advised me to also change the boat batteries and bow thruster relay to eliminate all possible causes of the problem. Does anyone know the specifications of the main bow thruster motor relay?

 

Andrew

 

Ronpische

SM 472

Canet en Roussillon

__.


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow Thruster Motor Solenoid Location

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Kent,

I think I know where it is, but I can't get there right now to verify it...Andrew, would you explain the location.

Bill
BeBe 387

On Fri, Jul 1, 2016 at 11:45 AM, Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi Bill,
Where is the bow thruster solenoid?
Thanks 
Kent
SM243
Kristy


On Jul 1, 2016, at 6:42 AM, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Andrew,

I know of one other owner who had the same problem with their bow thruster motor. They had Amel in Martinique ship the motor to Amel La Rochelle, who shipped it to some unknown place for rebuild. The total cost was between 3,000 and 4,000 Euros!

When you have a chance please share your information, because even though it is located in Perpignan, France, it may be a solution for boats located elsewhere.

It is interesting that he suggested a possible cause might be the bow thruster solenoid switch. I had not considered that too much resistance in the solenoid would cause damage to the motor and communicator, but I now understand how it could. I do not know the specs of the thruster relay on a SM. I can't get to mine right now and will look later. I suspect that I will find some numbers on it that I will search.

Regarding your batteries, the y can be checked for internal shorts and load-checked. I am sure that you know that most battery suppliers will provide this service.

Thanks,

Bill BeBe 387
Trinidad

On Fri, Jul 1, 2016 at 8:36 AM, Andrew Lamb andrew.lamb@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi

 

So I managed to find a local motor engineering workshop near Perpignan that specialise in repairing and reconditioning motors (lift motors, wind generators, etc) they have completely rebuilt the main bow thruster motor including changing the commutator the whole unit looks brand new now! He strongly advised me to also change the boat batteries and bow thruster relay to eliminate all possible causes of the problem. Does anyone know the specifications of the main bow thruster motor relay?

 

Andrew

 

Ronpische

SM 472

Canet en Roussillon

__.



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow Thruster Motor Repair and Main Relay

karkauai
 

Hi Bill,
Where is the bow thruster solenoid?
Thanks 
Kent
SM243
Kristy


On Jul 1, 2016, at 6:42 AM, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Andrew,

I know of one other owner who had the same problem with their bow thruster motor. They had Amel in Martinique ship the motor to Amel La Rochelle, who shipped it to some unknown place for rebuild. The total cost was between 3,000 and 4,000 Euros!

When you have a chance please share your information, because even though it is located in Perpignan, France, it may be a solution for boats located elsewhere.

It is interesting that he suggested a possible cause might be the bow thruster solenoid switch. I had not considered that too much resistance in the solenoid would cause damage to the motor and communicator, but I now understand how it could. I do not know the specs of the thruster relay on a SM. I can't get to mine right now and will look later. I suspect that I will find some numbers on it that I will search.

Regarding your batteries, they can be checked for internal shorts and load-checked. I am sure that you know that most battery suppliers will provide this service.

Thanks,

Bill BeBe 387
Trinidad

On Fri, Jul 1, 2016 at 8:36 AM, Andrew Lamb andrew.lamb@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi

 

So I managed to find a local motor engineering workshop near Perpignan that specialise in repairing and reconditioning motors (lift motors, wind generators, etc) they have completely rebuilt the main bow thruster motor including changing the commutator the whole unit looks brand new now! He strongly advised me to also change the boat batteries and bow thruster relay to eliminate all possible causes of the problem. Does anyone know the specifications of the main bow thruster motor relay?

 

Andrew

 

Ronpische

SM 472

Canet en Roussillon

__.


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow Thruster Motor Repair and Main Relay

Andrew & Kate Lamb
 

Bill

 

I can now answer my own question – the solenoid is Albright SW202N-14 (24 volt version) – I have found a supplier in the UK (http://www.forktruckspares.com/ ) – they are building one for me today from Albright parts according to the original specification and are sending it to me in France by 3 day delivery for £220.

 

I tested the batteries myself last year and again recently using a battery tester that you recommended and they were ok last year and again recently (although the values were down on last year) but as they are 5 years old then it seems prudent to change them anyway. So I am replacing them with 13 Victron AGM batteries.

 

The engineer who fixed the motor charged 920 euros – which seems extremely reasonable to me – particularly after what you just posted. I found him originally as I decided to buy Victron solar panels as they had very similar specification to the panels that you and many have used on the solar arch and we have other Victron equipment which we have been very impressed with. He was the closest Victron dealer according to their site. When I went to collect the panels from him (which he supplied at a very good price) I noticed that he had a few people rewinding motors and I soon realized that he and his son were real engineering geeks and took a great deal of pride in their work. When I took him the motor a few weeks ago I think he saw repairing it as a challenge - particularly after the “Brico” that I had performed on the motor last year in Menorca. Needless to say he told me sternly that if it breaks again that I am not to touch but rather to bring it back to him!

 

His business details are : SARL EFE – www.efe66.com - email : e.f.e.transfo AT wanadoo.fr

 

One other thing he has offered : we have a Victron Quattro 100 Amp charger / inverter and a Victron mppt solar panel regulator both connected to the Victron color Control – this is connected via our boat network via 4G to the Victron site this allows me to monitor remotely the state of batteries, etc. With this system I was able to grant him access to the control system and he has offered to reconfigure from his workshop the Quattro and Mppt for the agm batteries when I have installed them – very helpful indeed.

 

Andrew

Ronpische SM472

Canet en Roussillon

 

From: "amelyachtowners@..." <amelyachtowners@...> on behalf of "amelyachtowners@..." <amelyachtowners@...>
Reply-To: "amelyachtowners@..." <amelyachtowners@...>
Date: Friday, 1 July 2016 at 12:42
To: "amelyachtowners@..." <amelyachtowners@...>
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow Thruster Motor Repair and Main Relay

 

 

Andrew,

 

I know of one other owner who had the same problem with their bow thruster motor. They had Amel in Martinique ship the motor to Amel La Rochelle, who shipped it to some unknown place for rebuild. The total cost was between 3,000 and 4,000 Euros!

 

When you have a chance please share your information, because even though it is located in Perpignan, France, it may be a solution for boats located elsewhere.

 

It is interesting that he suggested a possible cause might be the bow thruster solenoid switch. I had not considered that too much resistance in the solenoid would cause damage to the motor and communicator, but I now understand how it could. I do not know the specs of the thruster relay on a SM. I can't get to mine right now and will look later. I suspect that I will find some numbers on it that I will search.

 

Regarding your batteries, they can be checked for internal shorts and load-checked. I am sure that you know that most battery suppliers will provide this service.

 

Thanks,

 

Bill BeBe 387

Trinidad

 

On Fri, Jul 1, 2016 at 8:36 AM, Andrew Lamb andrew.lamb@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi

 

So I managed to find a local motor engineering workshop near Perpignan that specialise in repairing and reconditioning motors (lift motors, wind generators, etc) they have completely rebuilt the main bow thruster motor including changing the commutator the whole unit looks brand new now! He strongly advised me to also change the boat batteries and bow thruster relay to eliminate all possible causes of the problem. Does anyone know the specifications of the main bow thruster motor relay?

 

Andrew

 

Ronpische

SM 472

Canet en Roussillon

__.

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Bow thruster shaft removal

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Ian,

Possibly you should get a local machine shop involved.

I have successfully helped an owner with the "drop method" I explained earlier, and with the Amel tool method. I think the most important ingredients in both were time and patience. Time for penetrating fluid to work and patience to keep from doing something that breaks something else.

A last resort...and I have not tried this:
A small impact driver which typically uses both bit rotation and concussive blows to power-drive screws. I would place the largest diameter blunt-end steel rod that will fit in the driver and lightly hold it around the cast iron base of the motor, while using the tool to provide downward force.


If you have not already, review the photos in this album:

And review this:


Bill 
BeBe #387


On Fri, Jul 1, 2016 at 9:06 AM, francesringley@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Thanks James. Interesting idea. This vintage SM has two steel bars as part of the bracket that holds the motor housing. Not sure these are on the SM2000 model. Makes it difficult to use a hammer (lack of room to throw) or attaching a sander though I'll have to see what I can do. Thanks again.

Ian Townsend
Loca Lola II
SM153



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow Thruster Motor Repair and Main Relay

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Andrew,

I know of one other owner who had the same problem with their bow thruster motor. They had Amel in Martinique ship the motor to Amel La Rochelle, who shipped it to some unknown place for rebuild. The total cost was between 3,000 and 4,000 Euros!

When you have a chance please share your information, because even though it is located in Perpignan, France, it may be a solution for boats located elsewhere.

It is interesting that he suggested a possible cause might be the bow thruster solenoid switch. I had not considered that too much resistance in the solenoid would cause damage to the motor and communicator, but I now understand how it could. I do not know the specs of the thruster relay on a SM. I can't get to mine right now and will look later. I suspect that I will find some numbers on it that I will search.

Regarding your batteries, they can be checked for internal shorts and load-checked. I am sure that you know that most battery suppliers will provide this service.

Thanks,

Bill BeBe 387
Trinidad

On Fri, Jul 1, 2016 at 8:36 AM, Andrew Lamb andrew.lamb@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi

 

So I managed to find a local motor engineering workshop near Perpignan that specialise in repairing and reconditioning motors (lift motors, wind generators, etc) they have completely rebuilt the main bow thruster motor including changing the commutator the whole unit looks brand new now! He strongly advised me to also change the boat batteries and bow thruster relay to eliminate all possible causes of the problem. Does anyone know the specifications of the main bow thruster motor relay?

 

Andrew

 

Ronpische

SM 472

Canet en Roussillon

__.


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] engine coupling alignment

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Mike,

If you were to ask David Shepherd david"at"bruntons-propellers.com, I am sure that he would say that 1000 hours is about the time for a bearing kit.

I think it depends. And I believe it especially depends on the Style of the internals of the AutoProp and whether or not yours is one that takes grease. I included David's email above. He will ask you for your model and serial number. The serial number is stamped on the Propeller. The description of the AutoProp on BeBe SM #387 is H6-566 LH Roller Bearing TS system.

I hope this helps you.

bill
BeBe 387
Trinidad

On Fri, Jul 1, 2016 at 1:43 AM, 'Mike Ondra' mdondra@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

After installing new engine mounts and reassembling everything we still had a modest vibration of the assembly while under power, increasing with RPM. After loosening the bolts that hold the Vetus coupling together and to the transmission output hub, the bolts were not at all under pressure (shear) that would indicate misalignment. In fact they could be slid fore and aft easily with a finger. The coupling and transmission hub separated about the distance of the thickness of a business card, and the gap was uniform at each of the 4 bolt locations. Seems to me this is about as good as it gets for alignment. Is that precise enough?

Suspecting the remaining vibration is from the Autoprop. Bearings replaced in 2009 with maybe 1000 hours on it since then. Seemed OK 200 hours ago when examined on the hard, clean and no wobble in the bearings. Total hours probably approaching 3500. Does the Autoprop need t o be rebalanced from time to time?

Mike Ondra

ALETES SM#240

Rock Hall, MD

 



Re: Bow thruster shaft removal

francesringley@...
 

Thanks James. Interesting idea. This vintage SM has two steel bars as part of the bracket that holds the motor housing. Not sure these are on the SM2000 model. Makes it difficult to use a hammer (lack of room to throw) or attaching a sander though I'll have to see what I can do. Thanks again.


Ian Townsend
Loca Lola II
SM153


Bow Thruster Main Relay

Andrew & Kate Lamb
 

Hi

 

So I managed to find a local motor engineering workshop near Perpignan that specialise in repairing and reconditioning motors (lift motors, wind generators, etc) they have completely rebuilt the main bow thruster motor including changing the commutator the whole unit looks brand new now! He strongly advised me to also change the boat batteries and bow thruster relay to eliminate all possible causes of the problem. Does anyone know the specifications of the main bow thruster motor relay?

 

Andrew

 

Ronpische

SM 472

Canet en Roussillon


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow thruster shaft removal

James Alton
 

Bill and Ian,

   I don’t know if this will help or not but one way to provide a gentle and controllable amount of vibration to loosen rust and work penetrant in would be to use an orbital sander or some similar tool.  Perhaps find a way to strap/tape the sander (with just a rubber pad on the sander)  to the assembly and leave it run for a period of time, stopping to squirt in more penetrant from time to time as Bill has suggested.  This problem certainly illustrates the importance of regular service to the bow thruster.

Best of luck,

James

On Jun 30, 2016, at 10:47 PM, francesringley@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Thanks Bill, we are in St.Augustine Florida. I have no idea when the last servicing was done.We only bought the boat two years ago and there are no records. Yes, the locking pin was in. The special tool is broken and i will have to order a new one or repair this one. We have doused the bolt holes and the underside of the collar with penetrating oil. Will attempt your suggestions tomorrow morning. Thank you once again 


Ian Townsend
Loca Lola II
SM 153



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow thruster shaft removal

francesringley@...
 

Thanks Bill, we are in St.Augustine Florida. I have no idea when the last servicing was done.We only bought the boat two years ago and there are no records. Yes, the locking pin was in. The special tool is broken and i will have to order a new one or repair this one. We have doused the bolt holes and the underside of the collar with penetrating oil. Will attempt your suggestions tomorrow morning. Thank you once again 

Ian Townsend
Loca Lola II
SM 153


engine coupling alignment

Mike Ondra
 

After installing new engine mounts and reassembling everything we still had a modest vibration of the assembly while under power, increasing with RPM. After loosening the bolts that hold the Vetus coupling together and to the transmission output hub, the bolts were not at all under pressure (shear) that would indicate misalignment. In fact they could be slid fore and aft easily with a finger. The coupling and transmission hub separated about the distance of the thickness of a business card, and the gap was uniform at each of the 4 bolt locations. Seems to me this is about as good as it gets for alignment. Is that precise enough?

Suspecting the remaining vibration is from the Autoprop. Bearings replaced in 2009 with maybe 1000 hours on it since then. Seemed OK 200 hours ago when examined on the hard, clean and no wobble in the bearings. Total hours probably approaching 3500. Does the Autoprop need to be rebalanced from time to time?

Mike Ondra

ALETES SM#240

Rock Hall, MD

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow thruster shaft removal

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Ian,

Your problem was caused by a small amount of  saltwater water passing the foam and lip seals.

When was the last time it was serviced? It should be serviced every two years.
Do you use the locking pin? If not, even new seals may leak a little in rough seas.

What commonly happens is that the above mentioned small amount of saltwater causes oxidation (rust) on the cast iron base of the electric motor. This causes the clearance for the tube to become smaller and the tube becomes bound inside the cast iron base of the motor.

I would not recommend heat because you may damage the tube. I would not recommend pulling the bow thruster out as you described because I think that you will break the foot.

The best solution is to spray copious amounts of penetrating fluid through the bolt holes and into the space between the tube and base of the motor from the bottom. Using the clamp-on special tool apply as much downward force on the tube as you can, then find something to vibrate that cast iron base... possibly an impact tool. Don't hit it with a hammer, because it is cast iron and it will break. You will also need lots a patience because it may take hours of vibration and downward force. Possibly a rubber mallet could work as well to provide enough shock while the tool is applying downward force.

There is another method which works, but usually only with a light amount of rust. That is to disconnect the cable at the top of the motor and from under the boat push the thruster up and pull it down quickly. The shock of hitting the bottom may break the tube loose from the motor. If this doesn't work in 6-8 tries, it probably won't work at all.

Of course everything I suggested could be overdone causing something else to break.

You did not say where you are. If you were near me, or possibly another owner, you could possibly have a volunteer to help you.

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Currently Trinidad, Crews Inn Marina
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail

On Jun 30, 2016 5:03 PM, "francesringley@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

HELP! 

I am trying to service the Bow Thruster and following the procedures given in the files section and various threads.

I have removed the band clamp, the four hex bolts and washers. But the shaft did not descend.

I used the Amel special tool and it moved about 3/4". But the tool kept slipping and the shaft would move no further. So as we torqued the nut, the bolt broke.

Next we tried torching the collar as much as we dared. No movement.

We have tried reefing down on the fairing with each of the above strategies. But we can only go so far without damaging it. 

Our latest effort has been to back up a pickup truck with a trailer hitch to just below the thrus ter, then connect a come along to the rectangular trunk piece and the hitch. Then we reefed on  the come along.  Truck went up. No shaft came down.

Now I am completely stumped. Any ideas from the group? What am I missing? 


Ian Townsend
Loca Lola II
SM153



Bow thruster shaft removal

francesringley@...
 

HELP! 

I am trying to service the Bow Thruster and following the procedures given in the files section and various threads.

I have removed the band clamp, the four hex bolts and washers. But the shaft did not descend.

I used the Amel special tool and it moved about 3/4". But the tool kept slipping and the shaft would move no further. So as we torqued the nut, the bolt broke.

Next we tried torching the collar as much as we dared. No movement.

We have tried reefing down on the fairing with each of the above strategies. But we can only go so far without damaging it. 

Our latest effort has been to back up a pickup truck with a trailer hitch to just below the thruster, then connect a come along to the rectangular trunk piece and the hitch. Then we reefed on  the come along.  Truck went up. No shaft came down.

Now I am completely stumped. Any ideas from the group? What am I missing? 


Ian Townsend
Loca Lola II
SM153



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Alternator wiring Volve D3-110i

James Wendell <ms42phantom54@...>
 

Great, sorry I could not help directly.
 
s/v Phantom Amel 54 #044


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: A RIB Dinghy Question...

Veit M <veitm@...>
 

That is a really smart idea!
Cheers,
Veit
SM 215, Atman


On Jun 30, 2016, at 2:07 PM, Ann-Sofie Svanberg kanalmamman@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

This how we have solved it on S/Y Lady Annila. The Dinghy is a Carib CX8

 

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/u8ufca4tt73dbq8/AAD8AxcANvAUU6IPK_LggbHCa?dl=0

 

/Regards

Annsofie

 

S/Y Lady Annila, SM232, 1998

 

 

 

Skickades från E-post för Windows 10

 

Från: James Alton lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners]
Skickat: den 30 juni 2016 11:15
Till: amelyachtowners@...
Ämne: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: A RIB Dinghy Question...

 

 

Ian,

   Thanks for the detailed information on the UL 260,  very helpful.  I will see if there might be a way to fit the 290 on the aft cabin top deflated without interference from the traveller but it does at least sound like the 260 would fit.  The videos showing the 260 also suggest to me that a bit more length would improve the stability.  I am wondering if eventually the aluminum will begin to corrode where it is pressed up against the tubes?  Hopefully that will not be an issue.  I never would have thought that a RIB could be as light as these dinghies,  quite a breakthrough I think.  I will let you know if I am able to fit the UL 290 and if so what I think of it.

Best,

James

Maramu #220  Sueno


On Jun 30, 2016, at 3:13 AM, parkianj@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

James
The short answer is I don't know, our boat is in Grenada and we're in UK!
Previously we had a Quicksilver 275 air deck. It lasted 13 years. The sun in the Med and the Caribbean destroyed the inflatable deck. The tubes and floor are still going strong with friends who made a wooden floor for it. My experience of PVC has therefore been good as long as it isn't in the sun. One thing I have found with the hard hull and Hypalon tubes is that the tubes don't need to be inflated anywhere near the pressure of airdeck. Therefore they withstand the rigours of the big pressure variation in tropical sunlight.

The Highfield has had five months use. I have no reason to believe the powder coating will be an issue. It has taken a bit more abuse than the old PVC dinghy!

Our Santorin came with the Liferaft cradle on the aft deck. The UL260 transom sits over the top of it up against the mizzen mast. With all tubes deflated it seems well short of the edge of the coach roof ( but I don't know comparative lengths). I have an electric inflator in the lazarette so no hassle there. With the air deck the electric pump would not achieve the inflation pressure especially for the floor and had to be finished by hand pump.

The Quicksilver was rated at max 10 HP outboard. The Highfield had a lower figure in the book than on the transom. The high figure was 6 HP. We got the 9.8 2 stroke which was the same weight. I doubt if the 6 HP would get it on the plane with two up and the shopping. Previously we had a 3.3 2 stroke - the difference now is we no longer have to see how close to the shoreline we can anchor (a longer haul to shore is much quicker now).

I am pleased with the dinghy, but in retrospect I could have got the 290 on board inflated on the front deck. I think this would have achieved planing speeds even better. The length of the 260 hull does sacrifice a bit when turning and going over steeper chop.

The 260 doesn't row as well as the Quicksilver, the bow sits higher out of the water and is more affected by the wind. We tend to use the oars and paddle from either side of the bow sitting on the seat when we choose not to use the engine.

The boat had a beautiful padded seat cover and underseat zip up back. Excellent design, but disintegrated in the sun in 3 months.

Highfield have recognised the problem and have changed the material. They are sending me a new one. 

Sorry about the length of the saga, I guess you need to get some deflated sizes from Highfield. 
The weight is really good for two pensioners to haul aboard with the halliard and winch.

Good hunting

Ian

'Ocean Hobo' SN96



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] A RIB Dinghy Question...

Germain Jean-Pierre <jgermain@...>
 

Hello Bil,

I have an ALU AB 9.5 with a Yamaha 15 HP 2 stroke… goes like stink and was a factor in my recent starboard knee refit.  Nice and dry with very large tubes (Hypalon).  A previous post of yours where you commented about the towing ability with 15 HP was instrumental in my choice.

The AB choice fitted all legal requirements to use a 15 HP.  No brainer… works for us and we stow it on the fore deck on passage.

Jean-Pierre Germain
Eleuthera, SM007


On 30 Jun 2016, at 13:10, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

JP,

I do not remember what dinghy you have. 

Facts:
We have a 310 and previously had a 320. To get the dinghy to lay in that area upside down you have to put the aft tubes on either side of the mizzen, which will somewhat alter the cockpit seating comfort in those two spots. 

Opinion:
The 260 is a little small for me (but generally big for Europeans) and you will certainly get wetter than in a larger dinghy. Additionally, your engine choices will be limited to about 9hp or less. Dinghies and outboards are very important choices because you will rely on them for much of your enjoyment when cruising the world.

Summary:
The 310 or 320 will take a 15hp engine which is large enough to push a SM up to 3kts (calm seas) with the dinghy tied fore and aft on the quarter of the SM. When cruising to distant shores a dinghy can sometimes be the only source to save you from grounding with engine failure, especially with no wind.

The 310 & 320 will fit upside down on the mizzen deck with the aft tubes against the starboard rail and lying at an angle with the bow of the dinghy against the aft port mizzen shroud. This position allows use of the starboard mizzen mid halyard to raise the dinghy with the electric main winch after you have used the same to raise the outboard motor. Access to the rear of the boat can be made on the port side faux-teak deck and the port side is sufficient for anything you want to do. The mizzen traveller is 100% free to travel from starboard to port. The only issue is deck connection of the mizzen boom preventer is blocked. A piece of line tied to the starboard chainplate is an easy solution.

BTW, it is very easy to use the port side mizzen halyard with a dinghy lifting harness to raise the dinghy with motor to deck level when at anchor to avoid fouling and theft. The dinghy will rest against the port chainplate. I use a very small fender between the dinghy and the chainplate and tie the dinghy fore and aft.

I hope this helps someone in making their choices.

Bill
BeBe 387
Currently Trinidad

On Thu, Jun 30, 2016 at 10:40 AM, Jean-Pierre Germain jgermain@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

If I had to buy again, I'd opt for a smaller rib equal or shorter than the mizzen mast to the mizzen traveler. 

A fit to measure for the aft deck ...,

Jean-Pierre
Eleuthera SM007



On 30 Jun 2016, at 12:07, Ann-Sofie Svanberg kanalmamman@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

This how we have solved it on S/Y Lady Annila. The Dinghy is a Carib CX8

 

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/u8ufca4tt73dbq8/AAD8AxcANvAUU6IPK_LggbHCa?dl=0

 

/Regards

Annsofie

 

S/Y Lady Annila, SM232, 1998

 

 

 

Skickades från E-post för Windows 10

 

Från: James Alton lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners]
Skickat: den 30 juni 2016 11:15
Till: amelyachtowners@...
Ämne: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: A RIB Dinghy Question...

 

 

Ian,

   Thanks for the detailed information on the UL 260,  very helpful.  I will see if there might be a way to fit the 290 on the aft cabin top deflated without interference from the traveller but it does at least sound like the 260 would fit.  The videos showing the 260 also suggest to me that a bit more length would improve the stability.  I am wondering if eventually the aluminum will begin to corrode where it is pressed up against the tubes?  Hopefully that will not be an issue.  I never would have thought that a RIB could be as light as these dinghies,  quite a breakthrough I think.  I will let you know if I am able to fit the UL 290 and if so what I think of it.

Best,

James

Maramu #220  Sueno


On Jun 30, 2016, at 3:13 AM, parkianj@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

James
The short answer is I don't know, our boat is in Grenada and we're in UK!
Previously we had a Quicksilver 275 air deck. It lasted 13 years. The sun in the Med and the Caribbean destroyed the inflatable deck. The tubes and floor are still going strong with friends who made a wooden floor for it. My experience of PVC has therefore been good as long as it isn't in the sun. One thing I have found with the hard hull and Hypalon tubes is that the tubes don't need to be inflated anywhere near the pressure of airdeck. Therefore they withstand the rigours of the big pressure variation in tropical sunlight.

The Highfield has had five months use. I have no reason to believe the powder coating will be an issue. It has taken a bit more abuse than the old PVC dinghy!

Our Santorin came with the Liferaft cradle on the aft deck. The UL260 transom sits over the top of it up against the mizzen mast. With all tubes deflated it seems well short of the edge of the coach roof ( but I don't know comparative lengths). I have an electric inflator in the lazarette so no hassle there. With the air deck the electric pump would not achieve the inflation pressure especially for the floor and had to be finished by hand pump.

The Quicksilver was rated at max 10 HP outboard. The Highfield had a lower figure in the book than on the transom. The high figure was 6 HP. We got the 9.8 2 stroke which was the same weight. I doubt if the 6 HP would get it on the plane with two up and the shopping. Previously we had a 3.3 2 stroke - the difference now is we no longer have to see how close to the shoreline we can anchor (a longer haul to shore is much quicker now).

I am pleased with the dinghy, but in retrospect I could have got the 290 on board inflated on the front deck. I think this would have achieved planing speeds even better. The length of the 260 hull does sacrifice a bit when turning and going over steeper chop.

The 260 doesn't row as well as the Quicksilver, the bow sits higher out of the water and is more affected by the wind. We tend to use the oars and paddle from either side of the bow sitting on the seat when we choose not to use the engine.

The boat had a beautiful padded seat cover and underseat zip up back. Excellent design, but disintegrated in the sun in 3 months.

Highfield have recognised the problem and have changed the material. They are sending me a new one. 

Sorry about the length of the saga, I guess you need to get some deflated sizes from Highfield. 
The weight is really good for two pensioners to haul aboard with the halliard and winch.

Good hunting

Ian

'Ocean Hobo' SN96








Jean-Pierre Germain,
SY Eleuthera, Amel Super Maramu 007
Porto Turistico Marina di Ragusa, Pontoon M15,
97100 Ragusa, Sicily, Italy
+44 7551 211 511
jp.germain@...