Date   
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Watertank cleaning on SM

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

the 12VDC is just a typo

Bill

On Fri, Aug 12, 2016 at 12:21 PM, osterberg.paul.l@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Bill!

Your water tank looks as new, I have not cleaned ours yet, feel I need to do it rather promptly. But looking further on your pictures on the pressure switch, you write there 12 v, we have 24 volt on ours. is your pump 12 volt?
Paul on S/Y Kerpa SM#259


Re: Jabsco Quite Flush Toilet Maintenance and Head Smell

Jim Anderson
 

Quick report on most recent Jabsco Quiet Flush head service: Prior to today, never on the 1ST try have I been able to get the "seal housing" to seal and not leak when re-attaching it to the base of the head with the 4 screws. (Often not on the 2ND or 3RD tries, too.) That is because the O-ring provided by Jabsco service kit, part# 90197-0000 is ever so slightly too big and it won't stay in, even with grease to hold it. Today  I got it not to leak on the very 1ST try using a 1.5MM X 75MM O-ring. I'm sure this is a common part, but I got a handful of them from O-Rings West, 2125 196TH ST SW, Suite #114, Lynwood, WA 98036, USA +1 (425) 967-5732 oringswest"dot"com, part #N70-M1.5X75 .
Best to All,
Jim
SM384 Sirena Azul
Seatttle

Battery Charger Manual

Duane Siegfri
 

I don't have an owner manual for my battery chargers and I'm hoping someone here has a pdf.  All I have is a two page "Basic Operation Guide"


I need to change them from Gel to Lead Acid charging.


They are the Dolphin Power First SM Series Battery Charger 100 amp and 30 amp.  This was discussed in an earlier thread but my chargers seem to be different.


The 30 amp had a slide switch labeled "Free" and "Gel" which seems simple enough, but I wonder if a 9 pin connector also has to be relocated.


The 100 amp has 5 holes in the circuit board with the label "Free" and "Gel" below it.  I'm not sure how the holes play into it, there is nothing in any of them.  I posted photos.


Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Duane


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Watertank cleaning on SM

Paul Osterberg
 

Bill!
Your water tank looks as new, I have not cleaned ours yet, feel I need to do it rather promptly. But looking further on your pictures on the pressure switch, you write there 12 v, we have 24 volt on ours. is your pump 12 volt?
Paul on S/Y Kerpa SM#259

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Insurance

Paul Osterberg
 

Scott 
I submit a request, but as I have no US adress they/you could not help me or....
Paul on S/Y Kerpa #259

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Watertank cleaning on SM

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

On Fri, Aug 12, 2016 at 10:05 AM, Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Bon Jour Olivier,
I am unable to remove the aft freezer to access the forward tank. I've removed all the screws I can find on the woodwork around the box and it's still immobile on the phone inboard end.  What am I missing?

Merci beaucoup pour votre aide!
Kent, Patch, Rusty
SM243
Kristy 


On Aug 12, 2016, at 9:32 AM, Beaute Olivier atlanticyachtsurvey@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

Hello Paul,

I wish it would be just a 5 minutes job...
However, in your SM, there are 2 more inspection hatches (there are 3 compartments in the water tank, so, 3 inspection hatches). One is located under the fridge in the galley, the other one is located under the deep freezer.
Removing the fridge to get access to the aft hatch is rather easy.
In order to remove the deep freezer, you first need to disconnect the compressor from the evaporator thanks to the valve fitting connectors (there is a valve inside the connector to prevent the gas from escaping). Then you can remove the whole freezer container by undoing a few screws.

For me, a thorough cleaning of the SM freshwater tank takes one day work...(a bit less on a Santorin and Maramu). 

Bon courage.

Olivier.


On Friday, August 12, 2016 1:55 PM, "Jean-Pierre Germain jgermain@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:


 
Hi James,

Also agree with Michel. While tank is empty, you can also check the heads of the keel bolts for corrosion 

:-)

Jean-Pierre Germain
Eleuthera SM007



On 12 Aug 2016, at 13:33, James Alton lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 
JPG,

   A very simple solution!  (grin)  

   Michel btw warned me against using a pressure washer of any sort since it can lift the tank coating causing flaking and problems down the road.  

James

On Aug 12, 2016, at 5:56 AM, Jean-Pierre Germain jgermain@... [amelyachtowne rs] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:


Hi Paul,

Remove the tank cover and using your wet/dry vacuum cleaner, suck out the tank bottom. 

Takes 5 mins

Jean-Pierre
Eleuthera SM007



On 12 Aug 2016, at 09:24, p.aebersold@... [amelyachtown ers] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

Hello everyone
Has somebody a good Solution to clean the watertank on a super Maramu
I cannot find any remark in this Forum on this Subjekt

Thanks Paul  sm328






Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Watertank cleaning on SM

karkauai
 

Bon Jour Olivier,
I am unable to remove the aft freezer to access the forward tank. I've removed all the screws I can find on the woodwork around the box and it's still immobile on the phone inboard end.  What am I missing?

Merci beaucoup pour votre aide!
Kent, Patch, Rusty
SM243
Kristy 


On Aug 12, 2016, at 9:32 AM, Beaute Olivier atlanticyachtsurvey@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hello Paul,

I wish it would be just a 5 minutes job...
However, in your SM, there are 2 more inspection hatches (there are 3 compartments in the water tank, so, 3 inspection hatches). One is located under the fridge in the galley, the other one is located under the deep freezer.
Removing the fridge to get access to the aft hatch is rather easy.
In order to remove the deep freezer, you first need to disconnect the compressor from the evaporator thanks to the valve fitting connectors (there is a valve inside the connector to prevent the gas from escaping). Then you can remove the whole freezer container by undoing a few screws.

For me, a thorough cleaning of the SM freshwater tank takes one day work...(a bit less on a Santorin and Maramu). 

Bon courage.

Olivier.


On Friday, August 12, 2016 1:55 PM, "Jean-Pierre Germain jgermain@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


 
Hi James,

Also agree with Michel. While tank is empty, you can also check the heads of the keel bolts for corrosion 

:-)

Jean-Pierre Germain
Eleuthera SM007



On 12 Aug 2016, at 13:33, James Alton lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 
JPG,

   A very simple solution!  (grin)  

   Michel btw warned me against using a pressure washer of any sort since it can lift the tank coating causing flaking and problems down the road.  

James

On Aug 12, 2016, at 5:56 AM, Jean-Pierre Germain jgermain@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


Hi Paul,

Remove the tank cover and using your wet/dry vacuum cleaner, suck out the tank bottom. 

Takes 5 mins

Jean-Pierre
Eleuthera SM007



On 12 Aug 2016, at 09:24, p.aebersold@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hello everyone
Has somebody a good Solution to clean the watertank on a super Maramu
I cannot find any remark in this Forum on this Subjekt

Thanks Paul  sm328





Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] New Climma 9EH A/C Unit needed

karkauai
 

Hi Bill.  I have the same configuration as Eric, with the entire AC unit in the aft head under the cubby holes.
The only thing I the engine room is the AC seawater pump.

Kent
SM 243
Kristy


On Aug 12, 2016, at 8:57 AM, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Kent,

I am fairly sure that you have/had separate Climma A/C with the compressor in the engine room.

Eric has a Climma Compact with the entire unit located inside the boat where your evaporator and blower would be.

But, frankly, I think that you did the smart thing with going with a Climma solution. They simply last longer than other marine A/C units...at least that is my opinion...I think the Captain had the same opinion.

Bill
BeBe 387



On Thu, Aug 11, 2016 at 7:54 PM, Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

 I just got a whole new unit from Costal Climate Control in Bowie, MD.  They delivered it to Curaçao in 1wk.  If yours is an old one, you'll need a different controller, and they recommended a new evaporator.
Kent
SM 243
Kristy


On Aug 11, 2016, at 5:08 PM, kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 


My 9 Eh Climma unit finally bought the bullet.
The delivery time from Italy is extensive and I was wondering what options other Amel owners have used.
Fair Winds,
Eric
SM 376 Kimberlite


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Watertank cleaning on SM

Jean-Pierre Germain <jgermain@...>
 

Ooops. Merci Olivier. 

I had forgotten the 2 other compartiments

JPG


On 12 Aug 2016, at 15:32, Beaute Olivier atlanticyachtsurvey@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hello Paul,

I wish it would be just a 5 minutes job...
However, in your SM, there are 2 more inspection hatches (there are 3 compartments in the water tank, so, 3 inspection hatches). One is located under the fridge in the galley, the other one is located under the deep freezer.
Removing the fridge to get access to the aft hatch is rather easy.
In order to remove the deep freezer, you first need to disconnect the compressor from the evaporator thanks to the valve fitting connectors (there is a valve inside the connector to prevent the gas from escaping). Then you can remove the whole freezer container by undoing a few screws.

For me, a thorough cleaning of the SM freshwater tank takes one day work...(a bit less on a Santorin and Maramu). 

Bon courage.

Olivier.


On Friday, August 12, 2016 1:55 PM, "Jean-Pierre Germain jgermain@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


 
Hi James,

Also agree with Michel. While tank is empty, you can also check the heads of the keel bolts for corrosion 

:-)

Jean-Pierre Germain
Eleuthera SM007



On 12 Aug 2016, at 13:33, James Alton lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 
JPG,

   A very simple solution!  (grin)  

   Michel btw warned me against using a pressure washer of any sort since it can lift the tank coating causing flaking and problems down the road.  

James

On Aug 12, 2016, at 5:56 AM, Jean-Pierre Germain jgermain@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


Hi Paul,

Remove the tank cover and using your wet/dry vacuum cleaner, suck out the tank bottom. 

Takes 5 mins

Jean-Pierre
Eleuthera SM007



On 12 Aug 2016, at 09:24, p.aebersold@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hello everyone
Has somebody a good Solution to clean the watertank on a super Maramu
I cannot find any remark in this Forum on this Subjekt

Thanks Paul  sm328





Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Watertank cleaning on SM

Beaute Olivier
 

Hello Paul,

I wish it would be just a 5 minutes job...
However, in your SM, there are 2 more inspection hatches (there are 3 compartments in the water tank, so, 3 inspection hatches). One is located under the fridge in the galley, the other one is located under the deep freezer.
Removing the fridge to get access to the aft hatch is rather easy.
In order to remove the deep freezer, you first need to disconnect the compressor from the evaporator thanks to the valve fitting connectors (there is a valve inside the connector to prevent the gas from escaping). Then you can remove the whole freezer container by undoing a few screws.

For me, a thorough cleaning of the SM freshwater tank takes one day work...(a bit less on a Santorin and Maramu). 

Bon courage.

Olivier.


On Friday, August 12, 2016 1:55 PM, "Jean-Pierre Germain jgermain@... [amelyachtowners]" wrote:


 
Hi James,

Also agree with Michel. While tank is empty, you can also check the heads of the keel bolts for corrosion 

:-)

Jean-Pierre Germain
Eleuthera SM007



On 12 Aug 2016, at 13:33, James Alton lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 
JPG,

   A very simple solution!  (grin)  

   Michel btw warned me against using a pressure washer of any sort since it can lift the tank coating causing flaking and problems down the road.  

James

On Aug 12, 2016, at 5:56 AM, Jean-Pierre Germain jgermain@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


Hi Paul,

Remove the tank cover and using your wet/dry vacuum cleaner, suck out the tank bottom. 

Takes 5 mins

Jean-Pierre
Eleuthera SM007



On 12 Aug 2016, at 09:24, p.aebersold@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hello everyone
Has somebody a good Solution to clean the watertank on a super Maramu
I cannot find any remark in this Forum on this Subjekt

Thanks Paul  sm328





Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Water in engine

Beaute Olivier
 

Hello Tom,

concerning the causes of water contaminating the cylinders, you may consider water coming from outside through the exhaust hose, filling up the muffler and entering the cylinders through the exhaust valves.
Check that the exhaust hose is making a loop as high as possible, in case the original mounting has been changed.
This has already happened, and this is why AMEL added an anti return flap system in the SM (since probably 1993). The reason for that is that the design of the SM, with a powerful generator, allows not running the engine for a few days (up to 30...) on a passage.
In a Maramu or a Santorin, even on a passage, you need to start the engine at least once a day (for hot water, or batteries charging or fridge engine-driven compressors).
Since 2000, it is strongly advised, in the SM owner's manual, to run the engine once a day (or more), especially in choppy/jumpy waters, to reject the water that may have come into the exhaust circuit (although there's a rubber flap in the stainless steel box, close to the hull.
There is no such flap on the generator's exhaust line of the SMs, because you are supposed to run it every day...!! For those who now have a strong solar panel capacity, and who may not want to start the genset for a few days, bear in mind that, on a port tack, the exhaust through-hull fitiings are exposed to the waves slapping the hull that may force water into these holes.
On a passage, run the engine and genset at least once a day (even for 5 minutes...).

Tom, I hope you will save your engine. You now have all the necessary advice.

Olivier.


On Friday, August 12, 2016 2:31 PM, "'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners]" wrote:


 
Tom,
 
Water is not compressible so cranking the engine with water in it will cause the cylinder rings to break or bend a connecting rod. You need to be SURE the water is out BEFORE cranking.
 
The good news is this is not as bad as it seems unless the water has been there for a while.
 
If you have a decompression lever, you can open it and hand crank the engine until the water is out.
 
If no decompression lever:
METHOD 1: Remove all the injectors and blow water out of the injector holes. Turn the engine over in small increments and try to push water past the cylinder heads. Do not force the issue. Use the starter motor and flick it on and off. Or, better still turn the crank shaft with a wrench. Do not rush or force things. This works well for older engines that have some wear as water will pass by the cylinder rings.
 
METHOD 2: Another method (and I think is a safer method) is to remove the valve cover and place coins under the valves to keep them open (an American quarter is a good size), The coins need to be placed between the rocker arms and the valve stems. The valves open inward to the cylinders. On some engines the distance between the valves and the cylinder head is very small so you must turn the engine by hand to ensure you are not blocking a cylinder cycle with the valve open. If the engine locks up, take the coins out and try again with a thinner coin. Once you have turned the engine 3 or 4 times (complete rotations) you should be able to safely start the engine. While turning the engine water is removed by forcing it out the valves. You can also check each cylinder through the injector holes with the injectors removed. Expect white smoke when first starting as this is small amounts of excess water.
 
Be sure to check for water in the oil regularly for the first 24 hour of operation.
 
Hope this helps.
 
 
 
With best regards,
 
Mark
 
Super Maramu 2000
Hull #275
www.creampuff.us
Currently cruising:  Tampa Bay for hurricane season
 
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Friday, August 12, 2016 5:47 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Water in engine
 
 
Hi group this is Tom amel 46 Maramu no. 125 1983
I have had Aphrodite for 16 years and never had this happen
I used the starter button, one clik and would not turn engine over!
I could not turn drive shaft with pipe wrench!
Opened air cleaner and FULL of water! Took off exhaust hose lots of water
Was able to turn over with wrench with some water coming out
Took off first and last injectors water came out of each cylinder
I think I have most water out?
ShouldI take other injectors off or will water go out ext. valves as I turn over?
Should I put some oil in cylinders before putting injectors back on?
 After bleading fuel I will try and start, run for a few and change oil 
There is no water in oil at this point, only in air intake and cyclinders.
I think this will get me going . I am at a small island in Indonesia!
I have been in 30ft seas and 60kts winds and never had this happen.
We had 15to25 down wind 4ft seas the last two days I motored for 4hrs.but ! Only at 1500RPMS I usually
Run2000 Any ideas on putting back together and not happening agin Perkins 4-154 Thanks Tom
 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Watertank cleaning on SM

karkauai
 

If you haven't cleaned your tanks in a year or more, or if you see growth on the sides of the tanks, I'd recommend putting a couple gallons of bleach in a tank full to the top, flush your fresh water lines, and let it sit for 24 hours.  Pump it out (I use a $40 sump pump to pump it out quickly), then flush the tanks with fresh water a couple of times, flushing your fresh water lines each time.  I use the wet shop vac to get almost all out each time.  I put all dock water through two charcoal filters to remove chlorine, and have a charcoal filter between the tanks and the fresh water pump to remove any remaining chlorine before it goes through the Watermaker membranes during flushing.

If you have mold growing on the sides of the tank, I couldn't find any other way to get rid of it.

Kent "Patch" "Rusty"
SM 243
Kristy


On Aug 12, 2016, at 7:55 AM, Jean-Pierre Germain jgermain@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi James,

Also agree with Michel. While tank is empty, you can also check the heads of the keel bolts for corrosion 

:-)

Jean-Pierre Germain
Eleuthera SM007



On 12 Aug 2016, at 13:33, James Alton lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

JPG,


   A very simple solution!  (grin)  

   Michel btw warned me against using a pressure washer of any sort since it can lift the tank coating causing flaking and problems down the road.  

James

On Aug 12, 2016, at 5:56 AM, Jean-Pierre Germain jgermain@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


Hi Paul,

Remove the tank cover and using your wet/dry vacuum cleaner, suck out the tank bottom. 

Takes 5 mins

Jean-Pierre
Eleuthera SM007



On 12 Aug 2016, at 09:24, p.aebersold@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hello everyone

Has somebody a good Solution to clean the watertank on a super Maramu

I cannot find any remark in this Forum on this Subjekt


Thanks Paul  sm328




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Water in engine

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

I think that all of the advice given is good...

BUT, MAKE SURE you identify/correct why/how you got water in the engine...muffler, exhaust hose, elbow, anti-siphon.

Bill
BeBe 387

On Fri, Aug 12, 2016 at 7:18 AM, 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Tom,

 

Water is not compressible so cranking the engine with water in it will cause the cylinder rings to break or bend a connecting rod. You need to be SURE the water is out BEFORE cranking.

 

The good news is this is not as bad as it seems unless the water has been there for a while.

 

If you have a decompression lever, you can open it and hand crank the engine until the water is out.

 

If no decompression lever:

METHOD 1: Remove all the injectors and blow water out of the injector holes. Turn the engine over in small increments and try to push water past the cylinder heads. Do not force the issue. Use the starter motor and flick it on and off. Or, better still turn the crank shaft with a wrench. Do not rush or force things. This works well for older engines that have some wear as water will pass by the cylinder rings.

 

METHOD 2: Another method (and I think is a safer method) is to remove the valve cover and place coins under the valves to keep them open (an American quarter is a good size), The coins need to be placed between the rocker arms and the valve stems. The valves open inward to the cylinders. On some engines the distance between the valves and the cylinder head is very small so you must turn the engine by hand to ensure you are not blocking a cylinder cycle with the valve open. If the engine locks up, take the coins out and try again with a thinner coin. Once you have turned the engine 3 or 4 times (complete rotations) you should be able to safely start the engine. While turning the engine water is removed by forcing it out the valves. You can also check each cylinder through the injector holes with the injectors removed. Expect white smoke when first starting as this is small amounts of excess water.

 

Be sure to check for water in the oil regularly for the first 24 hour of operation.

 

Hope this helps.

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Super Maramu 2000

Hull #275

www.creampuff.us

Currently cruising:  Tampa Bay for hurricane season

 

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com [mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Friday, August 12, 2016 5:47 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Water in engine

 

 

Hi group this is Tom amel 46 Maramu no. 125 1983

I have had Aphrodite for 16 years and never had this happen

I used the starter button, one clik and would not turn engine over!

I could not turn drive shaft with pipe wrench!

Opened air cleaner and FULL of water! Took off exhaust hose lots of water

Was able to turn over with wrench with some water coming out

Took off first and last injectors water came out of each cylinder

I think I have most water out?

ShouldI take other injectors off or will water go out ext. valves as I turn over?

Should I put some oil in cylinders before putting injectors back on?

 After bleading fuel I will try and start, run for a few and change oil 

There is no water in oil at this point, only in air intake and cyclinders.

I think this will get me going . I am at a small island in Indonesia!

I have been in 30ft seas and 60kts winds and never had this happen.

We had 15to25 down wind 4ft seas the last two days I motored for 4hrs.but ! Only at 1500RPMS I usually

Run2000 Any ideas on putting back together and not happening agin Perkins 4-154 Thanks Tom

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] New Climma 9EH A/C Unit needed

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Kent,

I am fairly sure that you have/had separate Climma A/C with the compressor in the engine room.

Eric has a Climma Compact with the entire unit located inside the boat where your evaporator and blower would be.

But, frankly, I think that you did the smart thing with going with a Climma solution. They simply last longer than other marine A/C units...at least that is my opinion...I think the Captain had the same opinion.

Bill
BeBe 387



On Thu, Aug 11, 2016 at 7:54 PM, Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

 I just got a whole new unit from Costal Climate Control in Bowie, MD.  They delivered it to Curaçao in 1wk.  If yours is an old one, you'll need a different controller, and they recommended a new evaporator.
Kent
SM 243
Kristy


On Aug 11, 2016, at 5:08 PM, kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 


My 9 Eh Climma unit finally bought the bullet.
The delivery time from Italy is extensive and I was wondering what options other Amel owners have used.
Fair Winds,
Eric
SM 376 Kimberlite


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: correct installation of a new charger

enio rossi
 

Thanks Olivier of your indication and have a good day. Initially I did not understand, I'm sorry. Now I had to make measurement on my sterling charger and the answer is that it does not go well. The measurement on  negative are very different from zero. I must then purchase an Amel-compliant charger. Can we have a list of Amel-compliant products? Because now I do not know where to start and my boat gives the shock. Greetings. Enio

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Super Maramu rigging loads

James Alton
 

Ian,

   Thank you for reposting this and thanks to Oliver for taking the time to write the document.  This procedure makes perfect sense to me.  I like the detail about inducing a slight bend in the spar fore/aft by tensioning the forward lowers a bit tighter than the aft.  Oliver did not state the reason but I am thinking that this is done to compensate for the aft tension of the mainsail, thereby resulting in a straight spar (or close).  It would be very interesting to me to know if this is the reasoning here.  I am assuming that (feel free to correct me if I am wrong) that it is quite important to keep the masts as straight as possible to help prevent binding in the internal furling system.   The shroud tension required to keep the lee rigging tight in 20 knots with a full genoa will be firm, but not extreme.  

    I intend to follow Olivers tuning procedure with my own boat after the new ACMO rigging is installed.  Thank you again Oliver for your help.

Best,

James

SV Sueno,  Hull #220

On Aug 12, 2016, at 3:58 AM, parkianj@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Further to my previous reply, I have copied Oliviers instructions.

Ian

Ocean Hobo

I will start with "How did AMEL install the masts and tune the rigging on Santorins, SMs and 54s?" It has now changed as the masts of the 64 and 55 are rigged with discontinuous side shrouds, and the tension is finally set thanks to an hydraulic mast jack tool system and wedges.

The mast steps are bolted through the deck in metal inserts glassed in. 
They are installed horizontally, this means parallel to the saloon floor, or perpendicular to the main bulkhead (underneath).
"How did AMEL install the masts?":
First of all, the spreaders are attached to the top shrouds as follows:
-bring the shroud along the mast and mark it (with a permanent marker) at the bottom side of the spreader's hex nut. Mark both shrouds the same way at both speaders. At spreader's end, put the eye bolt at the mark.
The intermediate shrouds will be secured at spreader's ends only once the rigging is tuned.

As the main mast is hanging from the top (thanks to a crane), it is set on the mast step, centered thanks to both "hubs". The first shrouds to be secured are the 4 lower shrouds, which is enough to hold the mast in place. The crane is going away.
Then the forestay with genoa furler is installed on its chain-plate, then both top shrouds, then the backstay.
Once the forestay, backstay and top shrouds' turnbuckles are gently tightened by hand, the lower shrouds should be eased a bit, in order not to interfere with the operation of "setting the mast foot flat on its mast step":
-Concerning the top shrouds, this is made by measuring the distance between the top of the lower swage, and the bottom of the clevis pin which secures the shroud into the chain-plate. This distance must be the same on both sides.
-Concerning the forestay and backstay, they are adjusted (by hand) in order there is no gap between the rubber sole and the aluminum mast step (front and aft). If you see no gap from the beginning, and you want to check if it is close to a gap, ease the backstay (two turns) and tighten the forestay (two turns). If you start seeing a gap aft, then ease the forestay again (one turn) and tighten the backstay again (one turn). If there is no gap: GOOD, if there is still a gap aft, then come back to the original position (one turn less on the forestay, one more turn on the backstay).
Now, you can say the mast is "vertical" (in fact, the Santorins, SMs and 54s are never horizontal, back to front, but always with the bow up, which means the mast is leaning slightly aft).
It is vertical but it should also be straight as no strong tension has been put on the shrouds.

Once the mast is vertical, you will start tensioning the shrouds by pairs, checking that the mast is straight after each tensioning, like, for instance:
-two turns on front lower shrouds, two turns on aft lower shrouds, check
-two turns on top shrouds, check
-three turns on forestay, three turns on backstay, check

And so on until the shrouds feel very stiff. In the end, you will tension the front lower shrouds a bit more than the aft ones, in order to initiate a slight curve aft (the middle of the mast being in front of the foot and top) and then only the intermediate shrouds, not too tight.
To confirm the rigging is tight enough, go out sailing, close hauling with 18/20 knots. The mast should keep straight sideways, and not bend forward, the leeward shrouds should not be loose. If the mast bends forward, then tighten the backstay and the front lower shrouds.

If the mast is not "vertical" from the beginning, it will bend front if you a gap at the front or aft if there is a gap at the aft.

Once the main mast and rigging are set, you can start with the mizzen mast:
-first line it up with the main mast, looking at both from the far aft of the vessel
-then tension the shrouds in order to make a slight curve aft

This is a first description. I probably forgot some details, so... feel free to ask.

Olivier


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Water in engine

Mark Erdos
 

Tom,

 

Water is not compressible so cranking the engine with water in it will cause the cylinder rings to break or bend a connecting rod. You need to be SURE the water is out BEFORE cranking.

 

The good news is this is not as bad as it seems unless the water has been there for a while.

 

If you have a decompression lever, you can open it and hand crank the engine until the water is out.

 

If no decompression lever:

METHOD 1: Remove all the injectors and blow water out of the injector holes. Turn the engine over in small increments and try to push water past the cylinder heads. Do not force the issue. Use the starter motor and flick it on and off. Or, better still turn the crank shaft with a wrench. Do not rush or force things. This works well for older engines that have some wear as water will pass by the cylinder rings.

 

METHOD 2: Another method (and I think is a safer method) is to remove the valve cover and place coins under the valves to keep them open (an American quarter is a good size), The coins need to be placed between the rocker arms and the valve stems. The valves open inward to the cylinders. On some engines the distance between the valves and the cylinder head is very small so you must turn the engine by hand to ensure you are not blocking a cylinder cycle with the valve open. If the engine locks up, take the coins out and try again with a thinner coin. Once you have turned the engine 3 or 4 times (complete rotations) you should be able to safely start the engine. While turning the engine water is removed by forcing it out the valves. You can also check each cylinder through the injector holes with the injectors removed. Expect white smoke when first starting as this is small amounts of excess water.

 

Be sure to check for water in the oil regularly for the first 24 hour of operation.

 

Hope this helps.

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Super Maramu 2000

Hull #275

www.creampuff.us

Currently cruising:  Tampa Bay for hurricane season

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Friday, August 12, 2016 5:47 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Water in engine

 

 

Hi group this is Tom amel 46 Maramu no. 125 1983

I have had Aphrodite for 16 years and never had this happen

I used the starter button, one clik and would not turn engine over!

I could not turn drive shaft with pipe wrench!

Opened air cleaner and FULL of water! Took off exhaust hose lots of water

Was able to turn over with wrench with some water coming out

Took off first and last injectors water came out of each cylinder

I think I have most water out?

ShouldI take other injectors off or will water go out ext. valves as I turn over?

Should I put some oil in cylinders before putting injectors back on?

 After bleading fuel I will try and start, run for a few and change oil 

There is no water in oil at this point, only in air intake and cyclinders.

I think this will get me going . I am at a small island in Indonesia!

I have been in 30ft seas and 60kts winds and never had this happen.

We had 15to25 down wind 4ft seas the last two days I motored for 4hrs.but ! Only at 1500RPMS I usually

Run2000 Any ideas on putting back together and not happening agin Perkins 4-154 Thanks Tom

 

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Watertank cleaning on SM

Jean-Pierre Germain <jgermain@...>
 

Hi James,

Also agree with Michel. While tank is empty, you can also check the heads of the keel bolts for corrosion 

:-)

Jean-Pierre Germain
Eleuthera SM007



On 12 Aug 2016, at 13:33, James Alton lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

JPG,


   A very simple solution!  (grin)  

   Michel btw warned me against using a pressure washer of any sort since it can lift the tank coating causing flaking and problems down the road.  

James

On Aug 12, 2016, at 5:56 AM, Jean-Pierre Germain jgermain@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


Hi Paul,

Remove the tank cover and using your wet/dry vacuum cleaner, suck out the tank bottom. 

Takes 5 mins

Jean-Pierre
Eleuthera SM007



On 12 Aug 2016, at 09:24, p.aebersold@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hello everyone

Has somebody a good Solution to clean the watertank on a super Maramu

I cannot find any remark in this Forum on this Subjekt


Thanks Paul  sm328




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Watertank cleaning on SM

James Alton
 

JPG,

   A very simple solution!  (grin)  

   Michel btw warned me against using a pressure washer of any sort since it can lift the tank coating causing flaking and problems down the road.  

James

On Aug 12, 2016, at 5:56 AM, Jean-Pierre Germain jgermain@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


Hi Paul,

Remove the tank cover and using your wet/dry vacuum cleaner, suck out the tank bottom. 

Takes 5 mins

Jean-Pierre
Eleuthera SM007



On 12 Aug 2016, at 09:24, p.aebersold@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hello everyone

Has somebody a good Solution to clean the watertank on a super Maramu

I cannot find any remark in this Forum on this Subjekt


Thanks Paul  sm328




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Water in engine

James Alton
 

Tom,

    Sorry to hear about your flooded engine, that must have been quite a shock.  I have recovered a number of diesels that had been flooded with salt water and so long as the recovery is done within a reasonable time there should be no damage.  You won’t break a piston pulling on a short wrench on the crankshaft but you are doing the right thing in clearing the water by not using the starter.  You basically want to clear the water, run the engine, change the fluids as needed if any are milky.  Your oil may look ok now but there may be some water at the bottom of the pan that will mix in after you run the engine.   Just remove all evidence of the water through fluid changes and you should be fine.  I would shut off the sea water intake just before shutting down the engine until you can determine the cause of the flooding.  You can likely use the engine in this manner without flooding until you can correct the problem if you are in a jam and need to run it.  The engine will not flood so long as it is running.  I would come up with some way to remind yourself that the raw water is off so that you don’t forget and run the engine with the valve closed.

   Whatever has changed will likely flood the engine again.  I would take the injection elbow off of the engine and check to see if it has corroded through somewhere,  pin holes are not uncommon.  The vented loop may have become blocked and is allowing the sea water to siphon back into the engine.  Check to be sure that it is operating properly.  Let me know what you find.

Best of luck,

James

SV Sueno,  Maramu #220


On Aug 12, 2016, at 6:46 AM, onboardaphrodite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


Hi group this is Tom amel 46 Maramu no. 125 1983

I have had Aphrodite for 16 years and never had this happen

I used the starter button, one clik and would not turn engine over!

I could not turn drive shaft with pipe wrench!

Opened air cleaner and FULL of water! Took off exhaust hose lots of water

Was able to turn over with wrench with some water coming out

Took off first and last injectors water came out of each cylinder

I think I have most water out?

ShouldI take other injectors off or will water go out ext. valves as I turn over?

Should I put some oil in cylinders before putting injectors back on?

 After bleading fuel I will try and start, run for a few and change oil 

There is no water in oil at this point, only in air intake and cyclinders .

I think this will get me going . I am at a small island in Indonesia!

I have been in 30ft seas and 60kts winds and never had this happen.

We had 15to25 down wind 4ft seas the last two days I motored for 4hrs.but ! Only at 1500RPMS I usually

Run2000 Any ideas on putting back together and not happening agin Perkins 4-154 Thanks Tom