Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Water in engine

eric freedman
 

Did you try adding a quantity of penetration oil or diesel to each cylinder with the injectors out  and let it sit overnight. In the morning try turning over the engine with a wrench.

That usually works.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, August 13, 2016 12:05 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Water in engine

 

 

Good day group. So I was able to turn over engine and get the water out, last night, this morn I can not turn over .I will have a machinist come in the morn. To pull the valves, head and see in side. The first thing is to get it running then see how the water got in there. I may just sail to Bali where there is more help and an airport.

Thanks for all the help I will keep you posted

Tom Deasy. S/Y Aphrodite


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Water in engine

amel46met
 

Good day group. So I was able to turn over engine and get the water out, last night, this morn I can not turn over .I will have a machinist come in the morn. To pull the valves, head and see in side. The first thing is to get it running then see how the water got in there. I may just sail to Bali where there is more help and an airport.
Thanks for all the help I will keep you posted
Tom Deasy. S/Y Aphrodite


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Watertank cleaning on SM

p.aebersold
 

Thank you very much guys for your Feedback. It looks like to be a rather big Job.

Regards Paul SM328


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Battery Charger Manual

karkauai
 

Hi Duane.
I've never had a dolphin charger, but I thought you might be interested in what I learned from the Interstate Battery technical support.  I have 90Ah series27 lead acid batteries that are a hybrid between cranking by and deep cycle batteries.  The charging specs recommended for these batteries are 
Absorption:  31.6-32V
Float:  26.4V

Don't know what kind of flooded wet cells you have, but these specs for my batteries were not available without contacting the mfg.

Finding a charger that can be set for your batteries seems to be a significant factor...and often not an easy task.

Kent
SM 243
Kristy


On Aug 12, 2016, at 5:05 PM, sailor63109@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

The reason I'm posting is I just cooked my brand new battery bank!

We had Gel and I replaced them with lead acid.  It didn't happen right away, it took a few days.  I think the problem is the 100 amp Dolphin Charger.  I have a 7 page Notice D'Installation for both chargers, and it's in French.  

After studying the Dolphin brochures (7 pages, not an owners manual) the tip-off finally was the 30 amp charger will use either 115V or 230V either 50 or 60hz, but the 100 amp charger is only for 230V/50 or 60hz.  On top of that the 30 amp charger has a selector for Gel or "Free" but the 100 amp charger brochure only provides charging for Gel (28.8V Boost and 27.2V Floating).

Normally we only use the 30 amp with shore power, but I didn't know the 100 amp was only meant for 230V/50hz (totally my fault).  

Does anyone know if running this charger on 110V/60hz would ruin it?

Duane


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Battery Charger Manual

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Ok, please take pictures and show them to us!

It took me lots of time, but using 4 screw drivers I was able to remove it...

Good luck!

Alexandre



--------------------------------------------

On Fri, 8/12/16, sailor63109@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Battery Charger Manual
To: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Friday, August 12, 2016, 5:23 PM


 









I have ordered a "bearing splitter" to
get the inner clutch cone off. It should be in any day.



Duane









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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Battery Charger Manual

Duane Siegfri
 

I have ordered a "bearing splitter" to get the inner clutch cone off. It should be in any day.

Duane


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Water in engine

James Wendell <ms42phantom54@...>
 

I would just like to add a bit of advice based on my previous engine experience. It is really important to get the water out quickly. I did not know I had water in my exhaust manifold until it was too late. I left the engine for about a week and a half and when I tried to start it would not start at all. I just had small amounts of water in the cylinder head, and when the water dried out it left chunks of salt and pits in the valves. My story is over a year old now and I had to replace the engine. I still am wrestling with Volvo to get it running.

By the way, the theory is that water flowed back into the muffler on shutdown, and it was enough to push the water back up into the engine - maybe just a splash or two, as it was not a total flood. No one has been able to determine why that happened, but I did replace all the exhaust system AND the flapper just to be sure.

Good luck.
Jamie
 
s/v Phantom Amel 54 #044


On Friday, August 12, 2016 9:12 AM, "Beaute Olivier atlanticyachtsurvey@... [amelyachtowners]" wrote:


 
Hello Tom,

concerning the causes of water contaminating the cylinders, you may consider water coming from outside through the exhaust hose, filling up the muffler and entering the cylinders through the exhaust valves.
Check that the exhaust hose is making a loop as high as possible, in case the original mounting has been changed.
This has already happened, and this is why AMEL added an anti return flap system in the SM (since probably 1993). The reason for that is that the design of the SM, with a powerful generator, allows not running the engine for a few days (up to 30...) on a passage.
In a Maramu or a Santorin, even on a passage, you need to start the engine at least once a day (for hot water, or batteries charging or fridge engine-driven compressors).
Since 2000, it is strongly advised, in the SM owner's manual, to run the engine once a day (or more), especially in choppy/jumpy waters, to reject the water that may have come into the exhaust circuit (although there's a rubber flap in the stainless steel box, close to the hull.
There is no such flap on the generator's exhaust line of the SMs, because you are supposed to run it every day...!! For those who now have a strong solar panel capacity, and who may not want to start the genset for a few days, bear in mind that, on a port tack, the exhaust through-hull fitiings are exposed to the waves slapping the hull that may force water into these holes.
On a passage, run the engine and genset at least once a day (even for 5 minutes...).

Tom, I hope you will save your engine. You now have all the necessary advice.

Olivier.


On Friday, August 12, 2016 2:31 PM, "'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners]" wrote:


 
Tom,
 
Water is not compressible so cranking the engine with water in it will cause the cylinder rings to break or bend a connecting rod. You need to be SURE the water is out BEFORE cranking.
 
The good news is this is not as bad as it seems unless the water has been there for a while.
 
If you have a decompression lever, you can open it and hand crank the engine until the water is out.
 
If no decompression lever:
METHOD 1: Remove all the injectors and blow water out of the injector holes. Turn the engine over in small increments and try to push water past the cylinder heads. Do not force the issue. Use the starter motor and flick it on and off. Or, better still turn the crank shaft with a wrench. Do not rush or force things. This works well for older engines that have some wear as water will pass by the cylinder rings.
 
METHOD 2: Another method (and I think is a safer method) is to remove the valve cover and place coins under the valves to keep them open (an American quarter is a good size), The coins need to be placed between the rocker arms and the valve stems. The valves open inward to the cylinders. On some engines the distance between the valves and the cylinder head is very small so you must turn the engine by hand to ensure you are not blocking a cylinder cycle with the valve open. If the engine locks up, take the coins out and try again with a thinner coin. Once you have turned the engine 3 or 4 times (complete rotations) you should be able to safely start the engine. While turning the engine water is removed by forcing it out the valves. You can also check each cylinder through the injector holes with the injectors removed. Expect white smoke when first starting as this is small amounts of excess water.
 
Be sure to check for water in the oil regularly for the first 24 hour of operation.
 
Hope this helps.
 
 
 
With best regards,
 
Mark
 
Super Maramu 2000
Hull #275
www.creampuff.us
Currently cruising:  Tampa Bay for hurricane season
 
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Friday, August 12, 2016 5:47 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Water in engine
 
 
Hi group this is Tom amel 46 Maramu no. 125 1983
I have had Aphrodite for 16 years and never had this happen
I used the starter button, one clik and would not turn engine over!
I could not turn drive shaft with pipe wrench!
Opened air cleaner and FULL of water! Took off exhaust hose lots of water
Was able to turn over with wrench with some water coming out
Took off first and last injectors water came out of each cylinder
I think I have most water out?
ShouldI take other injectors off or will water go out ext. valves as I turn over?
Should I put some oil in cylinders before putting injectors back on?
 After bleading fuel I will try and start, run for a few and change oil 
There is no water in oil at this point, only in air intake and cyclinders.
I think this will get me going . I am at a small island in Indonesia!
I have been in 30ft seas and 60kts winds and never had this happen.
We had 15to25 down wind 4ft seas the last two days I motored for 4hrs.but ! Only at 1500RPMS I usually
Run2000 Any ideas on putting back together and not happening agin Perkins 4-154 Thanks Tom
 





Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Battery Charger Manual

James Alton
 

Duane,

   The float voltage for Gel is lower than the setting for lead acid so it should not harm your new battery bank if left set to Gel.  The lead acid would be almost but not quite fully charged due to the lower finish voltage.  

James

On Aug 12, 2016, at 6:05 PM, sailor63109@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


The reason I'm posting is I just cooked my brand new battery bank!

We had Gel and I replaced them with lead acid.  It didn't happen right away, it took a few days.  I think the problem is the 100 amp Dolphin Charger.  I have a 7 page Notice D'Installation for both chargers, and it's in French.  

After studying the Dolphin brochures (7 pages, not an owners manual) the tip-off finally was the 30 amp charger will use either 115V or 230V either 50 or 60hz, but the 100 amp charger is only for 230V/50 or 60hz.  On top of that the 30 amp charger has a selector for Gel or "Free" but the 100 amp charger bro chure only provides charging for Gel (28.8V Boost and 27.2V Floating).

Normally we only use the 30 amp with shore power, but I didn't know the 100 amp was only meant for 230V/50hz (totally my fault).  

Does anyone know if running this charger on 110V/60hz would ruin it?

Duane



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Battery Charger Manual

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Good afternoon Duane,

I have little knowledge about battery chargers, but I would be very surprised they would only work on 50 Hw.
I just look at MDP (who took over Dolphin) and their 100 Amp is also only 230 Volt like yours, but they all accept 50/60hz…
http://www.mdpelectronics.com/english/documents/FT-PRO2012gb.pdf

Let us know what you find…

How about the windlass? Any progress?

Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Club Nautico de San Juan, Puerto Rico



--------------------------------------------

On Fri, 8/12/16, sailor63109@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Battery Charger Manual
To: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Friday, August 12, 2016, 4:05 PM


 









The reason
I'm posting is I just cooked my brand new battery
bank!
We had Gel
and I replaced them with lead acid.  It didn't happen
right away, it took a few days.  I think the problem is the
100 amp Dolphin Charger.  I have a 7 page Notice
D'Installation for both chargers, and it's in
French.  
After
studying the Dolphin brochures (7 pages, not an owners
manual) the tip-off finally was the 30 amp charger will use
either 115V or 230V either 50 or 60hz, but the 100 amp
charger is only for 230V/50 or 60hz.  On top of that the 30 amp
charger has a selector for Gel or "Free" but the
100 amp charger brochure only provides charging for Gel
(28.8V Boost and 27.2V Floating).
Normally we
only use the 30 amp with shore power, but I didn't know
the 100 amp was only meant for 230V/50hz (totally my fault).
 
Does anyone
know if running this charger on 110V/60hz would ruin
it?
Duane









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Re: Battery Charger Manual

Duane Siegfri
 

The reason I'm posting is I just cooked my brand new battery bank!

We had Gel and I replaced them with lead acid.  It didn't happen right away, it took a few days.  I think the problem is the 100 amp Dolphin Charger.  I have a 7 page Notice D'Installation for both chargers, and it's in French.  

After studying the Dolphin brochures (7 pages, not an owners manual) the tip-off finally was the 30 amp charger will use either 115V or 230V either 50 or 60hz, but the 100 amp charger is only for 230V/50 or 60hz.  On top of that the 30 amp charger has a selector for Gel or "Free" but the 100 amp charger brochure only provides charging for Gel (28.8V Boost and 27.2V Floating).

Normally we only use the 30 amp with shore power, but I didn't know the 100 amp was only meant for 230V/50hz (totally my fault).  

Does anyone know if running this charger on 110V/60hz would ruin it?

Duane


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Jabsco Quite Flush Toilet Maintenance and Head Smell

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Jim,

Did you check the Joker Valve inside the output nipple on the back of the pump housing?

I think that you should replace it each time you service or replace the macerator pump. If the Joker Valve leaks, flushed fluid will leak back into the toilet. Evidence of this is a increasing water level 15 minutes after flushing. Also keep one of the PVC outlet nipples because they will crack where the screws secure it to the housing.

Bill
BeBe 387



On Fri, Aug 12, 2016 at 2:58 PM, capt.anderson@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Quick report on most recent Jabsco Quiet Flush head service: Prior to today, never on the 1ST try have I been able to get the "seal housing" to seal and not leak when re-attaching it to the base of the head with the 4 screws. (Often not on the 2ND or 3RD tries, too.) That is because the O-ring provided by Jabsco service kit, part# 90197-0000 is ever so slightly too big and it won't stay in, even with grease to hold it. Today  I got it not to leak on the very 1ST try using a 1.5MM X 75MM O-ring. I'm sure this is a common part, but I got a handful of them from O-Rings West, 2125 196TH ST SW, Suite #114, Lynwood, WA 98036, USA +1 (425) 967-5732 oringswest"dot"com, part #N70-M1.5X75 .
Best to All,
Jim
SM384 Sirena Azul
Seatttle



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Jabsco Quite Flush Toilet Maintenance and Head Smell

Ben and Gayle Super Maramu #347
 

I had same issue many many times.  Glad you verified this.  I even complained to Jabsco customer service to no avail.  

Ben Driver
La Bella Vita
SM #347

On Aug 12, 2016, at 2:13 PM, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Thanks, Jim

That has always been an issue and you solved it!

Bill
BeBe 387

On Fri, Aug 12, 2016 at 2:58 PM, capt.anderson@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Quick report on most recent Jabsco Quiet Flush head service: Prior to today, never on the 1ST try have I been able to get the "seal housing" to seal and not leak when re-attaching it to the base of the head with the 4 screws. (Often not on the 2ND or 3RD tries, too.) That is because the O-ring provided by Jabsco service kit, part# 90197-0000 is ever so slightly too big and it won't stay in, even with grease to hold it. Today  I got it not to leak on the very 1ST try using a 1.5MM X 75MM O-ring. I'm sure this is a common part, but I got a handful of them from O-Rings West, 2125 196TH ST SW, Suite #114, Lynwood, WA 98036, USA +1 (425) 967-5732 oringswest"dot"com, part #N70-M1.5X75 .
Best to All,
Jim
SM384 Sirena Azul
Seatttle



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Jabsco Quite Flush Toilet Maintenance and Head Smell

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Thanks, Jim

That has always been an issue and you solved it!

Bill
BeBe 387

On Fri, Aug 12, 2016 at 2:58 PM, capt.anderson@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Quick report on most recent Jabsco Quiet Flush head service: Prior to today, never on the 1ST try have I been able to get the "seal housing" to seal and not leak when re-attaching it to the base of the head with the 4 screws. (Often not on the 2ND or 3RD tries, too.) That is because the O-ring provided by Jabsco service kit, part# 90197-0000 is ever so slightly too big and it won't stay in, even with grease to hold it. Today  I got it not to leak on the very 1ST try using a 1.5MM X 75MM O-ring. I'm sure this is a common part, but I got a handful of them from O-Rings West, 2125 196TH ST SW, Suite #114, Lynwood, WA 98036, USA +1 (425) 967-5732 oringswest"dot"com, part #N70-M1.5X75 .
Best to All,
Jim
SM384 Sirena Azul
Seatttle



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Watertank cleaning on SM

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

the 12VDC is just a typo

Bill

On Fri, Aug 12, 2016 at 12:21 PM, osterberg.paul.l@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Bill!

Your water tank looks as new, I have not cleaned ours yet, feel I need to do it rather promptly. But looking further on your pictures on the pressure switch, you write there 12 v, we have 24 volt on ours. is your pump 12 volt?
Paul on S/Y Kerpa SM#259



Re: Jabsco Quite Flush Toilet Maintenance and Head Smell

Jim Anderson
 

Quick report on most recent Jabsco Quiet Flush head service: Prior to today, never on the 1ST try have I been able to get the "seal housing" to seal and not leak when re-attaching it to the base of the head with the 4 screws. (Often not on the 2ND or 3RD tries, too.) That is because the O-ring provided by Jabsco service kit, part# 90197-0000 is ever so slightly too big and it won't stay in, even with grease to hold it. Today  I got it not to leak on the very 1ST try using a 1.5MM X 75MM O-ring. I'm sure this is a common part, but I got a handful of them from O-Rings West, 2125 196TH ST SW, Suite #114, Lynwood, WA 98036, USA +1 (425) 967-5732 oringswest"dot"com, part #N70-M1.5X75 .
Best to All,
Jim
SM384 Sirena Azul
Seatttle


Battery Charger Manual

Duane Siegfri
 

I don't have an owner manual for my battery chargers and I'm hoping someone here has a pdf.  All I have is a two page "Basic Operation Guide"


I need to change them from Gel to Lead Acid charging.


They are the Dolphin Power First SM Series Battery Charger 100 amp and 30 amp.  This was discussed in an earlier thread but my chargers seem to be different.


The 30 amp had a slide switch labeled "Free" and "Gel" which seems simple enough, but I wonder if a 9 pin connector also has to be relocated.


The 100 amp has 5 holes in the circuit board with the label "Free" and "Gel" below it.  I'm not sure how the holes play into it, there is nothing in any of them.  I posted photos.


Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Duane



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Watertank cleaning on SM

Paul Osterberg
 

Bill!
Your water tank looks as new, I have not cleaned ours yet, feel I need to do it rather promptly. But looking further on your pictures on the pressure switch, you write there 12 v, we have 24 volt on ours. is your pump 12 volt?
Paul on S/Y Kerpa SM#259


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Insurance

Paul Osterberg
 

Scott 
I submit a request, but as I have no US adress they/you could not help me or....
Paul on S/Y Kerpa #259


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Watertank cleaning on SM

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

On Fri, Aug 12, 2016 at 10:05 AM, Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Bon Jour Olivier,
I am unable to remove the aft freezer to access the forward tank. I've removed all the screws I can find on the woodwork around the box and it's still immobile on the phone inboard end.  What am I missing?

Merci beaucoup pour votre aide!
Kent, Patch, Rusty
SM243
Kristy 


On Aug 12, 2016, at 9:32 AM, Beaute Olivier atlanticyachtsurvey@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

Hello Paul,

I wish it would be just a 5 minutes job...
However, in your SM, there are 2 more inspection hatches (there are 3 compartments in the water tank, so, 3 inspection hatches). One is located under the fridge in the galley, the other one is located under the deep freezer.
Removing the fridge to get access to the aft hatch is rather easy.
In order to remove the deep freezer, you first need to disconnect the compressor from the evaporator thanks to the valve fitting connectors (there is a valve inside the connector to prevent the gas from escaping). Then you can remove the whole freezer container by undoing a few screws.

For me, a thorough cleaning of the SM freshwater tank takes one day work...(a bit less on a Santorin and Maramu). 

Bon courage.

Olivier.


On Friday, August 12, 2016 1:55 PM, "Jean-Pierre Germain jgermain@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:


 
Hi James,

Also agree with Michel. While tank is empty, you can also check the heads of the keel bolts for corrosion 

:-)

Jean-Pierre Germain
Eleuthera SM007



On 12 Aug 2016, at 13:33, James Alton lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 
JPG,

   A very simple solution!  (grin)  

   Michel btw warned me against using a pressure washer of any sort since it can lift the tank coating causing flaking and problems down the road.  

James

On Aug 12, 2016, at 5:56 AM, Jean-Pierre Germain jgermain@... [amelyachtowne rs] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:


Hi Paul,

Remove the tank cover and using your wet/dry vacuum cleaner, suck out the tank bottom. 

Takes 5 mins

Jean-Pierre
Eleuthera SM007



On 12 Aug 2016, at 09:24, p.aebersold@... [amelyachtown ers] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

Hello everyone
Has somebody a good Solution to clean the watertank on a super Maramu
I cannot find any remark in this Forum on this Subjekt

Thanks Paul  sm328







Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Watertank cleaning on SM

karkauai
 

Bon Jour Olivier,
I am unable to remove the aft freezer to access the forward tank. I've removed all the screws I can find on the woodwork around the box and it's still immobile on the phone inboard end.  What am I missing?

Merci beaucoup pour votre aide!
Kent, Patch, Rusty
SM243
Kristy 


On Aug 12, 2016, at 9:32 AM, Beaute Olivier atlanticyachtsurvey@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hello Paul,

I wish it would be just a 5 minutes job...
However, in your SM, there are 2 more inspection hatches (there are 3 compartments in the water tank, so, 3 inspection hatches). One is located under the fridge in the galley, the other one is located under the deep freezer.
Removing the fridge to get access to the aft hatch is rather easy.
In order to remove the deep freezer, you first need to disconnect the compressor from the evaporator thanks to the valve fitting connectors (there is a valve inside the connector to prevent the gas from escaping). Then you can remove the whole freezer container by undoing a few screws.

For me, a thorough cleaning of the SM freshwater tank takes one day work...(a bit less on a Santorin and Maramu). 

Bon courage.

Olivier.


On Friday, August 12, 2016 1:55 PM, "Jean-Pierre Germain jgermain@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


 
Hi James,

Also agree with Michel. While tank is empty, you can also check the heads of the keel bolts for corrosion 

:-)

Jean-Pierre Germain
Eleuthera SM007



On 12 Aug 2016, at 13:33, James Alton lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 
JPG,

   A very simple solution!  (grin)  

   Michel btw warned me against using a pressure washer of any sort since it can lift the tank coating causing flaking and problems down the road.  

James

On Aug 12, 2016, at 5:56 AM, Jean-Pierre Germain jgermain@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


Hi Paul,

Remove the tank cover and using your wet/dry vacuum cleaner, suck out the tank bottom. 

Takes 5 mins

Jean-Pierre
Eleuthera SM007



On 12 Aug 2016, at 09:24, p.aebersold@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hello everyone
Has somebody a good Solution to clean the watertank on a super Maramu
I cannot find any remark in this Forum on this Subjekt

Thanks Paul  sm328