Date   
Dive Compressor

thomas.kleman <no_reply@...>
 

Hello- I own SM2K #422 (L'ORIENT) with the Onan MDKAV 7 KW genset. I've read all the dive compressor posts and am considering installing one. The Bauer Junior II retailer and some of the literature I've read indicate an 8 KW genset is required......yet when I read the conversation on this site as well as Alexandre's detailed install plan on Nikimat, it seems apparent that my 7 KW Onan will do......the peak draw from the Bauer seems to be well below 7 KW when I read the specs, making the info from Bauer internally inconsistent . Am I missing something ? We dive quite a bit and are planning trips to more remote locations so having access to dive shops might be a problem going forward. I'd love to have one but don't want to make a $4000 mistake.

Amel SM engine room bulkheads and keel bolts.

johnabo2003 <no_reply@...>
 

I am in the process of mounting a heavy-ish fuel polisher in the engine room on the rear bulkhead. Does any body know if the bulkhead is double walled? I do not want to drive the mounting screws through into the rear head. 

I am also going to install a new copper strap in the bilge as per Bill's excellent write up. However I do not know the size of the hole to drill in the copper strip that is for the keel bolt. Does anybody know the diameter of the keel bolt studs.


Thanks

John Abercrombie SM 391 in Port Louis Grenada

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] The crazy wiring of the Yanmar isolated ground on my 4jh3hte Hull #376 SM

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

I cannot wait to get your explanation and photos...nobody has been able to document this before!

Bill
BeBe 387

On Sun, Aug 14, 2016 at 5:46 AM, Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Congrats, Eric!  So what did you find was the problem?
Kent
SM243
Kristy



From: "kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, August 14, 2016 2:42 AM
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] The crazy wiring of th e Yanmar isolated ground on my 4jh3hte Hull #376 SM

 
I thought I had solved the problem of the erratic starting and stopping of my engine. I finally threw in the towel and the last few days I have removed all the plastic covering of the entire engine harness and the gooey black electrical tape that was used 14 years ago to close the corrugated covering of the wires.

I have found a number of connections that work but make no sense as there are much simpler ways to accomplish the same thing.

Tomorrow I will take some photos an explain the improvements I am making to the wiring harness.

One series of improvements will be to remove soldered splices that the factory did to make the engine an isolated ground. I will run non spliced cables directly from point to point. a number of these connections are i n the middle of a run of wire just soldered and taped together.

To make things worse these connections are under the area of the turbo and totally inaccessible unless you remove the entire engine harness from the oil filter side.

The good news is I have it figured out and the engine now works perfectly.
More to follow.
 



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Correct way to rig the bi-directional Anderson traveler winch"

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

I have seen both, ours in outside...BUT...we were able to replace with exact line used by Amel on Super Maramus because we got those lines from Amel Hyères, France. La Rochelle recommends replacing with 12mm line.

Here is why:
It is almost impossible to buy the quality of 10mm line that Amel originally used...even from SAV. The problem is illustrated when you squeeze the new 10mm line with your fingers. I assume that line manufacturers are NOT putting as much fiber content in their new lines because you can compress new line to 7-8mm with your fingers. This is problematic with that Anderson winch and with the same winch on the main outhaul because 7-8mm is not enough for the teeth to get a good bite on the line...and it will slip.

One of the things that you can do on the main traveler line is to run it inside the pins. This causes the line to meet more of the winch circumference and therefore reduces slippage. Unfortunately, you do not have that option on the outhaul, where the best fix is to use 12mm line rather than 10mm. BTW, the 12mm will compress to 9-10mm.

I hope that my description is understandable...it is based on my experience with these winches and lines and is probably accurate, but not guaranteed.

Bill
BeBe 387

On Sun, Aug 14, 2016 at 2:47 AM, svperegrinus@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Eric, our are inside, but it's probably a random happenstance! (we replaced all the running rigging in 2013).


I'd like to make sure ours is set as per factory spec.

Cheerio,

Peregrinus
SM2K N. 350
At anchor, Bonifacio


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Exhaust flap

James Wendell <ms42phantom54@...>
 

You have to remove it from inside the boat. You first disconnect the exhaust hose going to it (mine was a 75mm hose - not sure about the SM). Then you remove the flapper from the large-diameter but short length of hose that you will see. The big hose is much larger in diameter than the flapper. It connects to the flapper and then to the thru-hull fitting. It is pretty easy to remove once you remove the exhaust hose. Be careful to ensure the exhaust outlet is not below the water line or you will get a lot of seawater entry. I did mine out of the water.
Jamie
 
s/v Phantom Amel 54 #044


On Saturday, August 13, 2016 9:34 PM, "simms simms@... [amelyachtowners]" wrote:


 
Thanks Jamie. The hand in will see if it is there. If not,how to replace?
Thanks
Danny
Sm 299
ocean pearl
Sent from my Vodafone Smart
On Aug 14, 2016 11:26 AM, "James Wendell ms42phantom54@... [amelyachtowners]" wrote:
 
Danny, I just replaced mine, as I had to increase my exhaust hose from 75 to 90 mm. You can reach in from the outside and feel it. You should not be able to stick your hands into the actual hose. It is welded into a tube that then fits into a rubber outer hose.
 
s/v Phantom Amel 54 #044


On Saturday, August 13, 2016 3:33 PM, "simms simms@... [amelyachtowners]" wrote:


 

Hi all. How do you get to check if the exhaust flap is in place still. Lazy question because I haven't started looking yet but don't want to pull things apart if there is a better way. If it is missing/damaged how to replace?
Regards
Danny
Sm 299
Ocean pearl
Sent from my Vodafone Smart




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Watertank cleaning on SM

Ann-Sofie Svanberg <kanalmamman@...>
 

Hi Kent

We were not able to get that freezer/fridge unit out due to that someone laminated the box to the wooden work.

 

/Annsofie

S/Y Lady Annila, SM232, 1998

 

 

 

Skickades från E-post för Windows 10

 

Från: Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners]
Skickat: den 14 augusti 2016 12:42
Till: amelyachtowners@...
Ämne: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Watertank cleaning on SM

 

 

Merci Olivier, but I am talking about the aft freezer box under the dinette seat.  I think Bill's description has answered my question.  I'm not on the boat now, when I get back aboard, I'll try again.  If I still can't get it out, I'll post some pics of the problem.
Thanks again to you both for your help.
Kent
SM 243
Kristy




On Aug 14, 2016, at 2:27 AM, Beaute Olivier atlanticyachtsurvey@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 
Hello Kent,

you don't need to remove all the screws you find around the box, just remove the wooden board below the door (where you find the switch for low fan speed) AND the floor board in front of the fridge.
The fridge will then be able to be slided forward.

Good luck.

Olivier.


On Friday, August 12, 2016 5:05 PM, "Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


 
Bon Jour Olivier,
I am unable to remove the aft freezer to access the forward tank. I've removed all the screws I can find on the woodwork around the box and it's still immobile on the phone inboard end.  What am I missing?

Merci beaucoup pour votre aide!
Kent, Patch, Rusty
SM243
Kristy 



 


 








Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Water in engine

Bob Grey
 

Tom had same thing happen on my Onan check the anti symphony u tube on the raw water cooling  as it is probably blocked.

Get the motor running as soon as possible as it will heat up and expel all the water.



On Friday, August 12, 2016, 7:46 PM, onboardaphrodite@... [amelyachtowners] wrote:

 

Hi group this is Tom amel 46 Maramu no. 125 1983

I have had Aphrodite for 16 years and never had this happen

I used the starter button, one clik and would not turn engine over!

I could not turn drive shaft with pipe wrench!

Opened air cleaner and FULL of water! Took off exhaust hose lots of water

Was able to turn over with wrench with some water coming out

Took off first and last injectors water came out of each cylinder

I think I have most water out?

ShouldI take other injectors off or will water go out ext. valves as I turn over?

Should I put some oil in cylinders before putting injectors back on?

 After bleading fuel I will try and start, run for a few and change oil 

There is no water in oil at this point, only in air intake and cyclinders.

I think this will get me going . I am at a small island in Indonesia!

I have been in 30ft seas and 60kts winds and never had this happen.

We had 15to25 down wind 4ft seas the last two days I motored for 4hrs.but ! Only at 1500RPMS I usually

Run2000 Any ideas on putting back together and not happening agin Perkins 4-154 Thanks Tom


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Battery Charger Manual

karkauai
 

Hi, Peregrinus,
I wasn't aware of the ability to change the charging specs via a computer connection.  Thanks for that!

I haven't seen anything about that capability when looking at the Victron Skylla-i 80A model.  I'll write them again to confirm.
I'd still like to hear from someone who has the Victron about how they equalize their batteries.

Steady as she goes,
Kent
SM 243
Kristy



From: "svperegrinus@... [amelyachtowners]"
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Sunday, August 14, 2016 3:42 AM
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Battery Charger Manual

 
Kent,

I share your experience.  Different batteries specify different voltages for bulk, absorption, and float, and this is often not at all made clear on marketing materials: you must dig deeper.  I am starting speculate some people's early battery failures may be attributable to this.

Take for instance my Trojan AGMs, per the spec-sheet, and double-checked by calling Trojan Tech service:

Bulk and absorption: 28.2-29.4V (at 25°C), I assume 29 for practical purposes
Float: 27V (at 25°C)

The AGM factory default settings of no charger brand that I know of will meet these specs.  Certainly the two Mastervolt chargers on board (100A and 30A) and the external Mastervolt alternator regulator will destroy the batteries even if all three devices are set to the factory "AGM" setting.

The solution?  Products from Mastervolt or Victron, if networked among themselves, and if you install their USB module, let you connect a PC.  Each brand provides its own PC software at no additional charge.  You can then adjust the bulk, absorption, and float values for each device.  Or in the case of Mastervolt, this can also be done from their touch screen modules, if you have one installed on the network, but very laboriously (not recommended).

A further wrinkle: Trojan states that for e.a. 5°C increase in batt temp the voltage must be reduced by 0.2V.  The Mastervolt does this automatically, but only if you have installed the battery temperature sensors that came in the box.  On our boat, the previous owner had installed the 30A charger while neglecting to install the sensor.

Cheerio,

Peregrinus
SM No. 350
At anchor, Bonifacio


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] The crazy wiring of the Yanmar isolated ground on my 4jh3hte Hull #376 SM

karkauai
 

Congrats, Eric!  So what did you find was the problem?
Kent
SM243
Kristy



From: "kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners]"
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Sunday, August 14, 2016 2:42 AM
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] The crazy wiring of the Yanmar isolated ground on my 4jh3hte Hull #376 SM

 
I thought I had solved the problem of the erratic starting and stopping of my engine. I finally threw in the towel and the last few days I have removed all the plastic covering of the entire engine harness and the gooey black electrical tape that was used 14 years ago to close the corrugated covering of the wires.

I have found a number of connections that work but make no sense as there are much simpler ways to accomplish the same thing.

Tomorrow I will take some photos an explain the improvements I am making to the wiring harness.

One series of improvements will be to remove soldered splices that the factory did to make the engine an isolated ground. I will run non spliced cables directly from point to point. a number of these connections are in the middle of a run of wire just soldered and taped together.

To make things worse these connections are under the area of the turbo and totally inaccessible unless you remove the entire engine harness from the oil filter side.

The good news is I have it figured out and the engine now works perfectly.
More to follow.
 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Watertank cleaning on SM

karkauai
 

Merci Olivier, but I am talking about the aft freezer box under the dinette seat.  I think Bill's description has answered my question.  I'm not on the boat now, when I get back aboard, I'll try again.  If I still can't get it out, I'll post some pics of the problem.
Thanks again to you both for your help.
Kent
SM 243
Kristy




On Aug 14, 2016, at 2:27 AM, Beaute Olivier atlanticyachtsurvey@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 
Hello Kent,

you don't need to remove all the screws you find around the box, just remove the wooden board below the door (where you find the switch for low fan speed) AND the floor board in front of the fridge.
The fridge will then be able to be slided forward.

Good luck.

Olivier.


On Friday, August 12, 2016 5:05 PM, "Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


 
Bon Jour Olivier,
I am unable to remove the aft freezer to access the forward tank. I've removed all the screws I can find on the woodwork around the box and it's still immobile on the phone inboard end.  What am I missing?

Merci beaucoup pour votre aide!
Kent, Patch, Rusty
SM243
Kristy 



 


 








Re: Correct way to rig the bi-directional Anderson traveler winch"

svperegrinus@yahoo.com
 

Eric, our are inside, but it's probably a random happenstance! (we replaced all the running rigging in 2013).

I'd like to make sure ours is set as per factory spec.

Cheerio,

Peregrinus
SM2K N. 350
At anchor, Bonifacio

Re: Battery Charger Manual

svperegrinus@yahoo.com
 

Kent,

I share your experience.  Different batteries specify different voltages for bulk, absorption, and float, and this is often not at all made clear on marketing materials: you must dig deeper.  I am starting speculate some people's early battery failures may be attributable to this.

Take for instance my Trojan AGMs, per the spec-sheet, and double-checked by calling Trojan Tech service:

Bulk and absorption: 28.2-29.4V (at 25°C), I assume 29 for practical purposes
Float: 27V (at 25°C)

The AGM factory default settings of no charger brand that I know of will meet these specs.  Certainly the two Mastervolt chargers on board (100A and 30A) and the external Mastervolt alternator regulator will destroy the batteries even if all three devices are set to the factory "AGM" setting.

The solution?  Products from Mastervolt or Victron, if networked among themselves, and if you install their USB module, let you connect a PC.  Each brand provides its own PC software at no additional charge.  You can then adjust the bulk, absorption, and float values for each device.  Or in the case of Mastervolt, this can also be done from their touch screen modules, if you have one installed on the network, but very laboriously (not recommended).

A further wrinkle: Trojan states that for e.a. 5°C increase in batt temp the voltage must be reduced by 0.2V.  The Mastervolt does this automatically, but only if you have installed the battery temperature sensors that came in the box.  On our boat, the previous owner had installed the 30A charger while neglecting to install the sensor.

Cheerio,

Peregrinus
SM No. 350
At anchor, Bonifacio

Re: Correct way to rig the bi-directional Anderson traveler winch"

Ian Park
 

Mine were inside, but I changed them to outside the pins as there was far less drag. I also reduced the main role diameter which gave much more grip in the Anderson winch. All works with much less effort under load.

Ian

Ocean Hobo SN 96

Re: Water in engine

svperegrinus@yahoo.com
 

I found Oliver's post fascinating, and I would like to thank him for his insights and reminders.

To sum it up: on a Super Maramu:

1.  One should run the genset every day during a passage, because there is no rubber flap.
2.  If on a port tack on choppy waters, also run the engine, even with a rubber flap?

Note: our manual clearly states on page 25: 
Warning 2: you must run the main engine everyday of sailing for 15 or 20 minutes (in 1 or 2 times) to drain the exhaust circuit (the waves fill it).

I must say, we crossed the Atlantic on a port tack and ran the genset only every second day or more, and certainly way more than a week without turning on the Yanmar!  I now see we are fortunate to not have ruined the  machinery.

Cheerio,

Peregrinus
SM2K #350 (2002)
At anchor, off Bonifacio (Corsica)


The crazy wiring of the Yanmar isolated ground on my 4jh3hte Hull #376 SM

eric freedman
 

I thought I had solved the problem of the erratic starting and stopping of my engine. I finally threw in the towel and the last few days I have removed all the plastic covering of the entire engine harness and the gooey black electrical tape that was used 14 years ago to close the corrugated covering of the wires.


I have found a number of connections that work but make no sense as there are much simpler ways to accomplish the same thing.


Tomorrow I will take some photos an explain the improvements I am making to the wiring harness.


One series of improvements will be to remove soldered splices that the factory did to make the engine an isolated ground. I will run non spliced cables directly from point to point. a number of these connections are in the middle of a run of wire just soldered and taped together.


To make things worse these connections are under the area of the turbo and totally inaccessible unless you remove the entire engine harness from the oil filter side.


The good news is I have it figured out and the engine now works perfectly.

More to follow.

 

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Watertank cleaning on SM

Beaute Olivier
 

Hello Kent,

you don't need to remove all the screws you find around the box, just remove the wooden board below the door (where you find the switch for low fan speed) AND the floor board in front of the fridge.
The fridge will then be able to be slided forward.

Good luck.

Olivier.


On Friday, August 12, 2016 5:05 PM, "Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners]" wrote:


 
Bon Jour Olivier,
I am unable to remove the aft freezer to access the forward tank. I've removed all the screws I can find on the woodwork around the box and it's still immobile on the phone inboard end.  What am I missing?

Merci beaucoup pour votre aide!
Kent, Patch, Rusty
SM243
Kristy 


On Aug 12, 2016, at 9:32 AM, Beaute Olivier atlanticyachtsurvey@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 
Hello Paul,

I wish it would be just a 5 minutes job...
However, in your SM, there are 2 more inspection hatches (there are 3 compartments in the water tank, so, 3 inspection hatches). One is located under the fridge in the galley, the other one is located under the deep freezer.
Removing the fridge to get access to the aft hatch is rather easy.
In order to remove the deep freezer, you first need to disconnect the compressor from the evaporator thanks to the valve fitting connectors (there is a valve inside the connector to prevent the gas from escaping). Then you can remove the whole freezer container by undoing a few screws.

For me, a thorough cleaning of the SM freshwater tank takes one day work...(a bit less on a Santorin and Maramu). 

Bon courage.

Olivier.


On Friday, August 12, 2016 1:55 PM, "Jean-Pierre Germain jgermain@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


 
Hi James,

Also agree with Michel. While tank is empty, you can also check the heads of the keel bolts for corrosion 

:-)

Jean-Pierre Germain
Eleuthera SM007



On 12 Aug 2016, at 13:33, James Alton lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 
JPG,

   A very simple solution!  (grin)  

   Michel btw warned me against using a pressure washer of any sort since it can lift the tank coating causing flaking and problems down the road.  

James

On Aug 12, 2016, at 5:56 AM, Jean-Pierre Germain jgermain@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


Hi Paul,

Remove the tank cover and using your wet/dry vacuum cleaner, suck out the tank bottom. 

Takes 5 mins

Jean-Pierre
Eleuthera SM007



On 12 Aug 2016, at 09:24, p.aebersold@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hello everyone
Has somebody a good Solution to clean the watertank on a super Maramu
I cannot find any remark in this Forum on this Subjekt

Thanks Paul  sm328







Correct way to rig the bi-directional Anderson traveler winch"

eric freedman
 

I had my main traveler line replaced while I was in St Maarten a few months ago. I noticed the rigger had run the line inside the two pins that stick up from the forward end of the "winch" . My winch was rigged by Amel at the factory with the lines outside the pins. I have spoken to a number of owners and some are inside and some are outside. Inside the pins makes a lot more sense as there is much more line on the  winch.

Just A FYI.

Fair winds

Eric SM 376 Kimberlite

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Exhaust flap

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Thanks Jamie. The hand in will see if it is there. If not,how to replace?
Thanks
Danny
Sm 299
ocean pearl
Sent from my Vodafone Smart

On Aug 14, 2016 11:26 AM, "James Wendell ms42phantom54@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Danny, I just replaced mine, as I had to increase my exhaust hose from 75 to 90 mm. You can reach in from the outside and feel it. You should not be able to stick your hands into the actual hose. It is welded into a tube that then fits into a rubber outer hose.
 
s/v Phantom Amel 54 #044


On Saturday, August 13, 2016 3:33 PM, "simms simms@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


 

Hi all. How do you get to check if the exhaust flap is in place still. Lazy question because I haven't started looking yet but don't want to pull things apart if there is a better way. If it is missing/damaged how to replace?
Regards
Danny
Sm 299
Ocean pearl
Sent from my Vodafone Smart


Double Emails

James Wendell <ms42phantom54@...>
 

Does anyone know why I have 2 identical emails show up every time I reply to a group posting? I thought it was because I was doing a "reply all," but it seems to do it all the time, even with a simple "reply."
I would like to fix this problem.
Thanks,
Jamie
 
s/v Phantom Amel 54 #044

Re: Jabsco Quite Flush Toilet Maintenance and Head Smell

Jim Anderson
 

Bill, Ben & the Group,

I didn’t replace the joker/check valve this time because it wasn’t leaking. And (maybe someone can chime in on this..), because in order to replace the joker valve you have to remove the output nipple. But to do that, the only way I have succeeded so far is to use a heat gun to make the output hose flexible enough to bend so as to be able to pull it off of the output nipple. I’m afraid that repeatedly heating the hose every year or so, so as to be able to replace the joker valve and maybe the output nipple, will cause it to fail. I’ve replaced the aft output hose but would like to put off doing a similar job again if at all possible.

 

For spares I keep at least 1:  24V motor, white round plastic seal housing that screws to the motor, blade & nut kit, output nipples, Jabsco re-build kits, and now a bunch of 1.5MM X 75MM O-rings.

 

Also as an aside, I’ve replaced some of the four slotted screws that attach the seal housing to the toilet base with hex-drive screws. This solves the problem of the screwdriver constantly slipping out of the screw head as you’re hugging the toilet and watching the flashlight roll away while trying to disassemble or reassemble the unit. I’m not aboard right now so don’t have the size available.

 

Best,

Jim

SM384 Sirena Azul