Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Battery Charger Manual

karkauai
 

Hi, Peregrinus,
I wasn't aware of the ability to change the charging specs via a computer connection.  Thanks for that!

I haven't seen anything about that capability when looking at the Victron Skylla-i 80A model.  I'll write them again to confirm.
I'd still like to hear from someone who has the Victron about how they equalize their batteries.

Steady as she goes,
Kent
SM 243
Kristy



From: "svperegrinus@... [amelyachtowners]"
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Sunday, August 14, 2016 3:42 AM
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Battery Charger Manual

 
Kent,

I share your experience.  Different batteries specify different voltages for bulk, absorption, and float, and this is often not at all made clear on marketing materials: you must dig deeper.  I am starting speculate some people's early battery failures may be attributable to this.

Take for instance my Trojan AGMs, per the spec-sheet, and double-checked by calling Trojan Tech service:

Bulk and absorption: 28.2-29.4V (at 25°C), I assume 29 for practical purposes
Float: 27V (at 25°C)

The AGM factory default settings of no charger brand that I know of will meet these specs.  Certainly the two Mastervolt chargers on board (100A and 30A) and the external Mastervolt alternator regulator will destroy the batteries even if all three devices are set to the factory "AGM" setting.

The solution?  Products from Mastervolt or Victron, if networked among themselves, and if you install their USB module, let you connect a PC.  Each brand provides its own PC software at no additional charge.  You can then adjust the bulk, absorption, and float values for each device.  Or in the case of Mastervolt, this can also be done from their touch screen modules, if you have one installed on the network, but very laboriously (not recommended).

A further wrinkle: Trojan states that for e.a. 5°C increase in batt temp the voltage must be reduced by 0.2V.  The Mastervolt does this automatically, but only if you have installed the battery temperature sensors that came in the box.  On our boat, the previous owner had installed the 30A charger while neglecting to install the sensor.

Cheerio,

Peregrinus
SM No. 350
At anchor, Bonifacio



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] The crazy wiring of the Yanmar isolated ground on my 4jh3hte Hull #376 SM

karkauai
 

Congrats, Eric!  So what did you find was the problem?
Kent
SM243
Kristy



From: "kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners]"
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Sunday, August 14, 2016 2:42 AM
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] The crazy wiring of the Yanmar isolated ground on my 4jh3hte Hull #376 SM

 
I thought I had solved the problem of the erratic starting and stopping of my engine. I finally threw in the towel and the last few days I have removed all the plastic covering of the entire engine harness and the gooey black electrical tape that was used 14 years ago to close the corrugated covering of the wires.

I have found a number of connections that work but make no sense as there are much simpler ways to accomplish the same thing.

Tomorrow I will take some photos an explain the improvements I am making to the wiring harness.

One series of improvements will be to remove soldered splices that the factory did to make the engine an isolated ground. I will run non spliced cables directly from point to point. a number of these connections are in the middle of a run of wire just soldered and taped together.

To make things worse these connections are under the area of the turbo and totally inaccessible unless you remove the entire engine harness from the oil filter side.

The good news is I have it figured out and the engine now works perfectly.
More to follow.
 



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Watertank cleaning on SM

karkauai
 

Merci Olivier, but I am talking about the aft freezer box under the dinette seat.  I think Bill's description has answered my question.  I'm not on the boat now, when I get back aboard, I'll try again.  If I still can't get it out, I'll post some pics of the problem.
Thanks again to you both for your help.
Kent
SM 243
Kristy




On Aug 14, 2016, at 2:27 AM, Beaute Olivier atlanticyachtsurvey@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 
Hello Kent,

you don't need to remove all the screws you find around the box, just remove the wooden board below the door (where you find the switch for low fan speed) AND the floor board in front of the fridge.
The fridge will then be able to be slided forward.

Good luck.

Olivier.


On Friday, August 12, 2016 5:05 PM, "Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


 
Bon Jour Olivier,
I am unable to remove the aft freezer to access the forward tank. I've removed all the screws I can find on the woodwork around the box and it's still immobile on the phone inboard end.  What am I missing?

Merci beaucoup pour votre aide!
Kent, Patch, Rusty
SM243
Kristy 



 


 









Re: Correct way to rig the bi-directional Anderson traveler winch"

svperegrinus@yahoo.com
 

Eric, our are inside, but it's probably a random happenstance! (we replaced all the running rigging in 2013).

I'd like to make sure ours is set as per factory spec.

Cheerio,

Peregrinus
SM2K N. 350
At anchor, Bonifacio


Re: Battery Charger Manual

svperegrinus@yahoo.com
 

Kent,

I share your experience.  Different batteries specify different voltages for bulk, absorption, and float, and this is often not at all made clear on marketing materials: you must dig deeper.  I am starting speculate some people's early battery failures may be attributable to this.

Take for instance my Trojan AGMs, per the spec-sheet, and double-checked by calling Trojan Tech service:

Bulk and absorption: 28.2-29.4V (at 25°C), I assume 29 for practical purposes
Float: 27V (at 25°C)

The AGM factory default settings of no charger brand that I know of will meet these specs.  Certainly the two Mastervolt chargers on board (100A and 30A) and the external Mastervolt alternator regulator will destroy the batteries even if all three devices are set to the factory "AGM" setting.

The solution?  Products from Mastervolt or Victron, if networked among themselves, and if you install their USB module, let you connect a PC.  Each brand provides its own PC software at no additional charge.  You can then adjust the bulk, absorption, and float values for each device.  Or in the case of Mastervolt, this can also be done from their touch screen modules, if you have one installed on the network, but very laboriously (not recommended).

A further wrinkle: Trojan states that for e.a. 5°C increase in batt temp the voltage must be reduced by 0.2V.  The Mastervolt does this automatically, but only if you have installed the battery temperature sensors that came in the box.  On our boat, the previous owner had installed the 30A charger while neglecting to install the sensor.

Cheerio,

Peregrinus
SM No. 350
At anchor, Bonifacio


Re: Correct way to rig the bi-directional Anderson traveler winch"

Ian Park
 

Mine were inside, but I changed them to outside the pins as there was far less drag. I also reduced the main role diameter which gave much more grip in the Anderson winch. All works with much less effort under load.

Ian

Ocean Hobo SN 96


Re: Water in engine

svperegrinus@yahoo.com
 

I found Oliver's post fascinating, and I would like to thank him for his insights and reminders.

To sum it up: on a Super Maramu:

1.  One should run the genset every day during a passage, because there is no rubber flap.
2.  If on a port tack on choppy waters, also run the engine, even with a rubber flap?

Note: our manual clearly states on page 25: 
Warning 2: you must run the main engine everyday of sailing for 15 or 20 minutes (in 1 or 2 times) to drain the exhaust circuit (the waves fill it).

I must say, we crossed the Atlantic on a port tack and ran the genset only every second day or more, and certainly way more than a week without turning on the Yanmar!  I now see we are fortunate to not have ruined the  machinery.

Cheerio,

Peregrinus
SM2K #350 (2002)
At anchor, off Bonifacio (Corsica)



The crazy wiring of the Yanmar isolated ground on my 4jh3hte Hull #376 SM

eric freedman
 

I thought I had solved the problem of the erratic starting and stopping of my engine. I finally threw in the towel and the last few days I have removed all the plastic covering of the entire engine harness and the gooey black electrical tape that was used 14 years ago to close the corrugated covering of the wires.


I have found a number of connections that work but make no sense as there are much simpler ways to accomplish the same thing.


Tomorrow I will take some photos an explain the improvements I am making to the wiring harness.


One series of improvements will be to remove soldered splices that the factory did to make the engine an isolated ground. I will run non spliced cables directly from point to point. a number of these connections are in the middle of a run of wire just soldered and taped together.


To make things worse these connections are under the area of the turbo and totally inaccessible unless you remove the entire engine harness from the oil filter side.


The good news is I have it figured out and the engine now works perfectly.

More to follow.

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Watertank cleaning on SM

Beaute Olivier
 

Hello Kent,

you don't need to remove all the screws you find around the box, just remove the wooden board below the door (where you find the switch for low fan speed) AND the floor board in front of the fridge.
The fridge will then be able to be slided forward.

Good luck.

Olivier.


On Friday, August 12, 2016 5:05 PM, "Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners]" wrote:


 
Bon Jour Olivier,
I am unable to remove the aft freezer to access the forward tank. I've removed all the screws I can find on the woodwork around the box and it's still immobile on the phone inboard end.  What am I missing?

Merci beaucoup pour votre aide!
Kent, Patch, Rusty
SM243
Kristy 


On Aug 12, 2016, at 9:32 AM, Beaute Olivier atlanticyachtsurvey@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 
Hello Paul,

I wish it would be just a 5 minutes job...
However, in your SM, there are 2 more inspection hatches (there are 3 compartments in the water tank, so, 3 inspection hatches). One is located under the fridge in the galley, the other one is located under the deep freezer.
Removing the fridge to get access to the aft hatch is rather easy.
In order to remove the deep freezer, you first need to disconnect the compressor from the evaporator thanks to the valve fitting connectors (there is a valve inside the connector to prevent the gas from escaping). Then you can remove the whole freezer container by undoing a few screws.

For me, a thorough cleaning of the SM freshwater tank takes one day work...(a bit less on a Santorin and Maramu). 

Bon courage.

Olivier.


On Friday, August 12, 2016 1:55 PM, "Jean-Pierre Germain jgermain@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


 
Hi James,

Also agree with Michel. While tank is empty, you can also check the heads of the keel bolts for corrosion 

:-)

Jean-Pierre Germain
Eleuthera SM007



On 12 Aug 2016, at 13:33, James Alton lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 
JPG,

   A very simple solution!  (grin)  

   Michel btw warned me against using a pressure washer of any sort since it can lift the tank coating causing flaking and problems down the road.  

James

On Aug 12, 2016, at 5:56 AM, Jean-Pierre Germain jgermain@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


Hi Paul,

Remove the tank cover and using your wet/dry vacuum cleaner, suck out the tank bottom. 

Takes 5 mins

Jean-Pierre
Eleuthera SM007



On 12 Aug 2016, at 09:24, p.aebersold@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hello everyone
Has somebody a good Solution to clean the watertank on a super Maramu
I cannot find any remark in this Forum on this Subjekt

Thanks Paul  sm328








Correct way to rig the bi-directional Anderson traveler winch"

eric freedman
 

I had my main traveler line replaced while I was in St Maarten a few months ago. I noticed the rigger had run the line inside the two pins that stick up from the forward end of the "winch" . My winch was rigged by Amel at the factory with the lines outside the pins. I have spoken to a number of owners and some are inside and some are outside. Inside the pins makes a lot more sense as there is much more line on the  winch.

Just A FYI.

Fair winds

Eric SM 376 Kimberlite


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Exhaust flap

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Thanks Jamie. The hand in will see if it is there. If not,how to replace?
Thanks
Danny
Sm 299
ocean pearl
Sent from my Vodafone Smart

On Aug 14, 2016 11:26 AM, "James Wendell ms42phantom54@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Danny, I just replaced mine, as I had to increase my exhaust hose from 75 to 90 mm. You can reach in from the outside and feel it. You should not be able to stick your hands into the actual hose. It is welded into a tube that then fits into a rubber outer hose.
 
s/v Phantom Amel 54 #044


On Saturday, August 13, 2016 3:33 PM, "simms simms@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


 

Hi all. How do you get to check if the exhaust flap is in place still. Lazy question because I haven't started looking yet but don't want to pull things apart if there is a better way. If it is missing/damaged how to replace?
Regards
Danny
Sm 299
Ocean pearl
Sent from my Vodafone Smart



Double Emails

James Wendell <ms42phantom54@...>
 

Does anyone know why I have 2 identical emails show up every time I reply to a group posting? I thought it was because I was doing a "reply all," but it seems to do it all the time, even with a simple "reply."
I would like to fix this problem.
Thanks,
Jamie
 
s/v Phantom Amel 54 #044


Re: Jabsco Quite Flush Toilet Maintenance and Head Smell

Jim Anderson
 

Bill, Ben & the Group,

I didn’t replace the joker/check valve this time because it wasn’t leaking. And (maybe someone can chime in on this..), because in order to replace the joker valve you have to remove the output nipple. But to do that, the only way I have succeeded so far is to use a heat gun to make the output hose flexible enough to bend so as to be able to pull it off of the output nipple. I’m afraid that repeatedly heating the hose every year or so, so as to be able to replace the joker valve and maybe the output nipple, will cause it to fail. I’ve replaced the aft output hose but would like to put off doing a similar job again if at all possible.

 

For spares I keep at least 1:  24V motor, white round plastic seal housing that screws to the motor, blade & nut kit, output nipples, Jabsco re-build kits, and now a bunch of 1.5MM X 75MM O-rings.

 

Also as an aside, I’ve replaced some of the four slotted screws that attach the seal housing to the toilet base with hex-drive screws. This solves the problem of the screwdriver constantly slipping out of the screw head as you’re hugging the toilet and watching the flashlight roll away while trying to disassemble or reassemble the unit. I’m not aboard right now so don’t have the size available.

 

Best,

Jim

SM384 Sirena Azul


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Exhaust flap

James Wendell <ms42phantom54@...>
 

Danny, I just replaced mine, as I had to increase my exhaust hose from 75 to 90 mm. You can reach in from the outside and feel it. You should not be able to stick your hands into the actual hose. It is welded into a tube that then fits into a rubber outer hose.
 
s/v Phantom Amel 54 #044


On Saturday, August 13, 2016 3:33 PM, "simms simms@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


 

Hi all. How do you get to check if the exhaust flap is in place still. Lazy question because I haven't started looking yet but don't want to pull things apart if there is a better way. If it is missing/damaged how to replace?
Regards
Danny
Sm 299
Ocean pearl
Sent from my Vodafone Smart



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Furler gearbox.

amelforme
 

Good for you Danny! Can you share the details of the part number that you ordered from Emerson and where you placed/with whom, this order? Thanks in advance.

Joel

Joel F. Potter/Cruising Yacht Specialist LLC

THE EXPERIENCED AMEL GUY

954 462 5869 office

954 812 2485 cell

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, August 13, 2016 3:29 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Furler gearbox.

 

 


Hi all. Got the problem sorted. Got no reply from amel France. Sourced a gearbox and parts from amel carribe. FedEx 120euro compared to 500, euro for FedEx from riza in turkey. Then just after they were shipped I got a price from emerson for a complete gearbox for less than amels bronze gear price. Such is life.
Danny
Sm299
Ocean pearl.
Lost in fiji
Sent from my Vodafone Smart


Exhaust flap

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi all. How do you get to check if the exhaust flap is in place still. Lazy question because I haven't started looking yet but don't want to pull things apart if there is a better way. If it is missing/damaged how to replace?
Regards
Danny
Sm 299
Ocean pearl
Sent from my Vodafone Smart


Furler gearbox.

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi all. Got the problem sorted. Got no reply from amel France. Sourced a gearbox and parts from amel carribe. FedEx 120euro compared to 500, euro for FedEx from riza in turkey. Then just after they were shipped I got a price from emerson for a complete gearbox for less than amels bronze gear price. Such is life.
Danny
Sm299
Ocean pearl.
Lost in fiji
Sent from my Vodafone Smart


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Kent-Vetus mockup of flexible coupling.

karkauai
 

Sorry, Eric, I'm not on the boat until late September.  I just took the Vetus flexible coupling to the machine shop and had them make the disc to the same specs.

Kent
SM 243
Kristy


On Aug 13, 2016, at 12:14 AM, 'sailormon' kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Kent,

Do you happen to have the dimensions of the aluminum disk that you made to align your engine?

I think it is about time for me to change my engine mounts.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Water in engine

James Alton
 

Tom,

   I suspect that some water has made it’s way back into the cylinders.  I do not think that the engine could seize from corrosion overnight.  Try clearing it again and once you get it started do not shut it down until you arrive at your new destination.  Be sure to turn off the seawater supply a few seconds before shutting the engine down upon your arrival.  If you turned the seawater off the last time and it still filled back up, perhaps your seacock is not closing fully or is leaking some.  In that case I would remove the engine sea water supply line to prevent any possibility of seawater getting back in the engine.  Best of luck to you and let us know what you find out.

Best,

James

On Aug 13, 2016, at 1:09 AM, 'sailormon' kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


Did you try adding a quantity of penetration oil or diesel to each cylinder with the injectors out  and let it sit overnight. In the morning try turning over the engine with a wrench.

That usually works.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...] 
Sent: Saturday, August 13, 2016 12:05 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Water in engine

 

  

Good day group. So I was able to turn over engine and get the water out, last night, this morn I can not turn over .I will have a machinist come in the morn. To pull the valves, head and see in side. The first thing is to get it running then see how the water got in there. I may just sail to Bali where there is more help and an airport.

Thanks for all the help I will keep you posted

Tom Deasy. S/Y Aphrodite




Kent-Vetus mockup of flexible coupling.

eric freedman
 

Hi Kent,

Do you happen to have the dimensions of the aluminum disk that you made to align your engine?

I think it is about time for me to change my engine mounts.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376