Date   

Re: Explanation of Bonding System

Duane Siegfri
 

Ian,

When you're back in Brunswick let me know, we're on dock 14 in BLM.

First, I'm not an expert in bonding systems.  But here is what I understand.

If you connect different metals together with a conductor, one will corrode (the anode and less noble metal), and the other will not (cathode and more noble metal).  

Seawater will conduct electricity.  

When seawater is in contact with different metals (say a stainless steel pump impeller and a bronze seacock) one of these is less noble and will corrode (the anode).  Zinc is more anodic than the other metals on your boat.  By connecting all the metals that are in contact with seawater, and then connecting that wire to the zinc anode on the rudder, the zinc will corrode and protect the other metals in contact with seawater.

This is a form of "cathodic protection", check wikipedia for a more detailed explanation of cathodic protection.  This is an electro-chemical reaction.

Duane
Wanderer, SM #477


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Lofrans Winch Mounting

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Duane,

Apparently that guy has not worked at Lofrans very long, because it is a very common problem when people either tighten the wing nut very tight and don't use a snubber, or they do not believe that the cone-to-gypsy connection should be greased.

Bill
BeBe 387



On Tue, Aug 16, 2016 at 8:26 AM, sailor63109@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

I'm sure that's the reason Bill.  I called Lofrans this morning and the guy I talked to said he had never heard of the key binding before!


Duane



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Lofrans Winch Mounting

Duane Siegfri
 

I'm sure that's the reason Bill.  I called Lofrans this morning and the guy I talked to said he had never heard of the key binding before!

Duane


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Lofrans Winch Mounting

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Duane,

I am sure that you know this...The cause of the twisted key on the shaft is that the cone was not greased.

When you get it back, be sure the cone is greased between the gypsy and the cone. You want it to slip under high loads. Be sure to use a snubber to take any load off the windlass when you are anchored.

Bill
BeBe 387

On Tue, Aug 16, 2016 at 8:05 AM, sailor63109@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

I've been trying to remove the inner clutch cone without success.  The key is binding in the clutch cone key-slot.  (picture the clutch cone slot at 11:00, the drive shaft slot at noon, and the key tipped to stay in both slots).  


I tried using a bearing splitter, which is the only puller that can be gotten between the clutch cone and the aluminum casing, and the puller then pushes against the drive shaft.  It bent the edge of the clutch cone but did not move one bit.


I decided to remove the winch and send it to Lofrans for repair.  Looking in the chain locker, directly below the windlass, I don't see any nuts for the four mounting bolts.  


Are the nut embedded in the deck?  I started to turn one of the bolts and didn't get a good feeling about it.


Du ane



Lofrans Winch Mounting

Duane Siegfri
 

I've been trying to remove the inner clutch cone without success.  The key is binding in the clutch cone key-slot.  (picture the clutch cone slot at 11:00, the drive shaft slot at noon, and the key tipped to stay in both slots).  


I tried using a bearing splitter, which is the only puller that can be gotten between the clutch cone and the aluminum casing, and the puller then pushes against the drive shaft.  It bent the edge of the clutch cone but did not move one bit.


I decided to remove the winch and send it to Lofrans for repair.  Looking in the chain locker, directly below the windlass, I don't see any nuts for the four mounting bolts.  


Are the nut embedded in the deck?  I started to turn one of the bolts and didn't get a good feeling about it.


Duane


Explanation of Bonding System

francesringley@...
 

Can anyone provide an explanation of the bonding system on the Super Maramu? I have looked through the forum and tried to interpret various messages that mention it. But I can't seem to put it all together so it makes complete sense. How and where is it laid out? What should you be know when installing new equipment? How do you check it and what are the signs of trouble?

I want to be able to add/replace various 24V and 220V things (e.g. instruments, cabin fans, microwave, etc.) but not until I fully understand.

Thanks all.


Ian Townsend
Loca Lola II
SM153
Brunswick, GA


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Dive Compressor

robin hutter
 

check the Lenherr and Wagner - as good as the Baur, if not better, also German made - costs certainly less than US$ 4000, will easily fit and does only need 2,2 Kw

fair winds
Robin
SM #56
Amel SM
presently in Kavala, Greece


Re: Amel SM engine room bulkheads and keel bolts.

johnabo2003 <no_reply@...>
 

Perfect! Thank you very much for the information

John. SM Notre Vie


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Exhaust flap

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Thanks Jamie. Sounds simple, must do it.



From: "James Wendell ms42phantom54@... [amelyachtowners]"
To: "amelyachtowners@..."
Sent: Monday, 15 August 2016 3:28 AM
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Exhaust flap

 
You have to remove it from inside the boat. You first disconnect the exhaust hose going to it (mine was a 75mm hose - not sure about the SM). Then you remove the flapper from the large-diameter but short length of hose that you will see.. The big hose is much larger in diameter than the flapper. It connects to the flapper and then to the thru-hull fitting. It is pretty easy to remove once you remove the exhaust hose. Be careful to ensure the exhaust outlet is not below the water line or you will get a lot of seawater entry. I did mine out of the water.
Jamie
 
s/v Phantom Amel 54 #044


On Saturday, August 13, 2016 9:34 PM, "simms simms@... [amelyachtowners]" wrote:


 
Thanks Jamie. The hand in will see if it is there. If not,how to replace?
Thanks
Danny
Sm 299
ocean pearl
Sent from my Vodafone Smart
On Aug 14, 2016 11:26 AM, "James Wendell ms42phantom54@... [amelyachtowners]" wrote:
 
Danny, I just replaced mine, as I had to increase my exhaust hose from 75 to 90 mm. You can reach in from the outside and feel it. You should not be able to stick your hands into the actual hose. It is welded into a tube that then fits into a rubber outer hose.
 
s/v Phantom Amel 54 #044


On Saturday, August 13, 2016 3:33 PM, "simms simms@... [amelyachtowners]" wrote:


 

Hi all. How do you get to check if the exhaust flap is in place still. Lazy question because I haven't started looking yet but don't want to pull things apart if there is a better way. If it is missing/damaged how to replace?
Regards
Danny
Sm 299
Ocean pearl
Sent from my Vodafone Smart







Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] The crazy wiring of the Yanmar isolated ground on my 4jh3hte Hull #376 SM

karkauai
 

Thanks Eric.  Glad you're up and running again.
Kent


On Aug 14, 2016, at 10:48 PM, 'sailormon' kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Kent,

Yanmar uses plain copper wire in their harnesses. Normal USA wire is tinned. I believe some of my problems were the fact that he wires corroded over time, Secondly a number of wires that Amel selected to use are too small a gauge for the current/distance..

Having  soldered , changed, and rewired most of the engine harness I cannot say it was something specific except time and wrong wire sizing.

Fair Winds

 

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Sunday, August 14, 2016 6:47 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] The crazy wiring of the Yanmar isolated ground on my 4jh3hte Hull #376 SM

 

 

Congrats, Eric!  So what did you find was the problem?

Kent

SM243

Kristy

 


From: "kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Sunday, August 14, 2016 2:42 AM
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] The crazy wiring of the Yanmar isolated ground on my 4jh3hte Hull #376 SM

 

 

I thought I had solved the problem of the erratic starting and stopping of my engine. I finally threw in the towel and the last few days I have removed all the plastic covering of the entire engine harness and the gooey black electrical tape that was used 14 years ago to close the corrugated covering of the wires.

 

I have found a number of connections that work but make no sense as there are much simpler ways to accomplish the same thing.

 

Tomorrow I will take some photos an explain the improvements I am making to the wiring harness.

 

One series of improvements will be to remove soldered splices that the factory did to make the engine an isolated ground. I will run non spliced cables directly from point to point. a number of these connections are in the middle of a run of wire just soldered and taped together.

 

To make things worse these connections are under the area of the turbo and totally inaccessible unless you remove the entire engine harness from the oil filter side.

 

The good news is I have it figured out and the engine now works perfectly.

More to follow.

 

 


Re: Transformer Information/Documents

sebastien aubouin <sfaubouin@...>
 

Puis  is shorthand for puissance  which means "Power" in French.  Hope this helps.

--
Sebastien Aubouin


Transformer Information/Documents

greatketch@...
 

The only piece of equipment I have found lacking documentation in our boat's files has been the transformer. Does anybody has any details about it?  I wasn't able to get anything on this older model from the Scheiber website.


Here is the contents of the label:


Auto Transformateur

P.  110/230  HZ 50/60

S. ________ Ph. _______

Puis. 6300

Type  ATP   No _______

SCHEIBER S.A.  85120


Here is what I think I know, please feel free to correct any misunderstanding.

  • This transformer will convert 110V up to 230V OR 230V down to 110V, depending on which side is energized.
  • It is rated for 6300 Watts.

That's about it!  Anything else important to know?


Bill Kinney

Harmonie, SM#160

Narraganset Bay, RI




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Water in engine

Beaute Olivier
 

Hello,

installing a valve on an engine exhaust line is not recommended at all. It is not abiding by the EC regulations for leisure crafts manufacturing, and I'm pretty sure ABYC would recommend against that.
Moreover, that would mean installing a HUUUGE valve (75 mm internal diameter).

Another way of preventing seawater to fill up the exhaust line and the cylinders would be to install a drain with a valve, in the muffler, that is left open when you don't run the engine (but, then don't forget to shut it before starting!). Some plastic mufflers (VETUS) have that kind of built-in drain.

However, as always, try not to change too many things on your AMEL.

Olivier.


On Sunday, August 14, 2016 9:35 PM, "James Wendell ms42phantom54@... [amelyachtowners]" wrote:


 
Bill, you are absolutely correct. My old boat, a Tayana 42, had a very high outlet point - with a non-functioning gate valve of all crazy ideas. I only added a flapper when I installed a gas/water separator. It seemed to work.

I would be most interested in hearing your story about a closed valve, over that glass of wine of course. I would not want to give that a whirl on my boat.

I think James said it well that you cannot defy physics, but I do think the Amel design is the best of both worlds - a high exhaust loop and a flapper. I took advantage of each when I installed my new engine and the larger exhaust.

Jamie
 
s/v Phantom Amel 54 #044


On Sunday, August 14, 2016 1:48 PM, "Bill Kinney greatketch@... [amelyachtowners]" wrote:


 
All boats have compromises in design... Even Amels!

Many boats do not need a flap on the exhaust because the design allows the exhaust to loop high enough that one is not needed.

On other boats a valve is fitted to absolutely close the exhaust port. You don't have to worry about not opening it, the engine will not run against a closed exhaust! I will only explain how I know this after several glasses of wine...

On my old boat for example, the exhaust hose looped way up inside the cockpit coming. That got the high point of the hose almost a meter higher above the water than is possible on my SM where the height of the hose loop is limited by the floor of the cockpit. Water entry was never a problem.

But... On an SM, even if vertical space was available, you can't ask a turbocharged engine to work against that much back pressure!

Isn't boat design FUN!?!?

Bill Kinney
Harmonie, SM160
Narragansett Bay, RI

> On Aug 14, 2016, at 13:11, James Wendell ms42phantom54@... [amelyachtowners] wrote:
>
> I think what Amel installed for the engine on the SM and on is quite good. =
> Most boats have no flapper at all. The only other option would be a shutoff=
> valve, which is what my generator exhaust has. But there you have to be ve=
> ry careful to remember to open when you run the generator. Otherwise you wi=
> ll seriously fill up the boat with raw water - an






Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Amel SM engine room bulkheads and keel bolts.

Beaute Olivier
 

Hello John,

the keel bolts' diameter is 20mm, the nuts are hex 32mm.

Concerning the aft bulkhead of the engine room, you should find a first plywood (10mm) behind the foam, then foam again, then the 20mm plywood mizzen mast bulkhead. Check with a gentle drill...

Olivier


On Monday, August 15, 2016 4:51 PM, johnabo2003 wrote:


 
Thanks Bill. I will start with 14mm and hope it is right first time.



Re: Amel SM engine room bulkheads and keel bolts.

johnabo2003 <no_reply@...>
 

Thanks Bill. I will start with 14mm and hope it is right first time.


Re: Amel SM engine room bulkheads and keel bolts.

johnabo2003 <no_reply@...>
 

Hey, Kent!  We'll send you an e-mail at the address you provided.  Great to hear from you!


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Jabsco Quite Flush Toilet Maintenance and Head Smell

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

I also change my locker valve as well as the seal twice a year. (seal on the macerator - make sure to point the hole vertically)

Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Club Nautico de San Juan, Puerto Rico



--------------------------------------------

On Sun, 8/14/16, Kent Robertson karkauai@yahoo.com [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Jabsco Quite Flush Toilet Maintenance and Head Smell
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Sunday, August 14, 2016, 8:51 PM


 









I changed my hoses due to severe
calcification when I bought the boat.  Since then I've
flushed all urine out of the output hose from pump to tank.
 When I leave the boat, or twice a year, I use SewClean
(same company that makes Barnacle Buster for engines).  I
haven't had any further calcification. I need to change
joker valve at least twice a year. The engine raw water
systems are also clear of scale and hard growth.KentSM244Kristy
On Aug 14,
2016, at 6:48 PM, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@svbebe.com
[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
wrote:
















 






I think that the replacement times
for a full time occupant of a SM are:

Jabsco Macerator pump every 3-4 years

Joker Valve every 3-4 years

25mm output hose, 25mm to 38mm adapter and 38mm hose every
5-6 years (in about 5 years, these hoses will get calcified
inside, harden, and odor will escape through the hose).
So, don't worry about heating the hose too
many times because of changing the Joker Valve each time you
change the macerator pump.
Bill Rouse

BeBe Amel 53 #387

Sent from my tablet

+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail

On Aug 14, 2016 2:44 PM,
"Ben Driver joedoakes66@yahoo.com
[amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
wrote:















 









Kent,
I do same on mine.  I've never
removed hose for reason Jim states .  It's a
hassle! 

Ben
DriverLa Bella VitaSM #347Sent
from my iPhone 6S

On Aug 14, 2016, at 1:41 PM, Kent Robertson karkauai@yahoo.com
[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.
com> wrote:
















 






That's what I do,
Ben.KentSM
243Kristy
On Aug 14,
2016, at 12:50 PM, Ben Driver joedoakes66@yahoo.com
[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.
com> wrote:
















 






Jim Would it be possible to
remove the two screws holding plastic nipple to base without
removing hose?  That is, flex the hose enough to gain
access to input side of nipple in order to replace joker?

Ben DriverLa
Bella VitaSM #347Sent from my iPhone
6S

On
Aug 13, 2016, at 5:29 PM, 'Jim Anderson' capt.anderson@gmail.com
[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.
com> wrote:
















 






Bill,
Ben & the Group,I didn’t replace the
joker/check valve this time because it wasn’t leaking. And
(maybe someone can chime in on this..), because in order to
replace the joker valve you have to remove the output
nipple. But to do that, the only way I have succeeded so far
is to use a heat gun to make the output hose flexible enough
to bend so as to be able to pull it off of the output
nipple. I’m afraid that repeatedly heating the hose every
year or so, so as to be able to replace the joker valve and
maybe the output nipple, will cause it to fail. I’ve
replaced the aft output hose but would like to put off doing
a similar job again if at all possible. For spares I keep at least 1:
 24V motor, white round plastic seal housing that screws to
the motor, blade & nut kit, output nipples, Jabsco
re-build kits, and now a bunch of 1.5MM X 75MM
O-rings. Also as an aside, I’ve
replaced some of the four slotted screws that attach the
seal housing to the toilet base with hex-drive screws. This
solves the problem of the screwdriver constantly slipping
out of the screw head as you’re hugging the toilet and
watching the flashlight roll away while trying to
disassemble or reassemble the unit. I’m not aboard right
now so don’t have the size available. Best,JimSM384 Sirena
Azul


















































































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Re: Before wiring harness photos 4jh3 Yanmar

Derick Gates SM2K #400 Brava
 

What a mess of spaghetti!  I hope that your annotations will help us all to label/diagnose/repair/replace similar issues more easily.  Thanks for pioneering Eric!

Derick Gates
SM2K#400 Brava
Currently on the hard in Antigua for hurricane season


Before wiring harness photos 4jh3 Yanmar

Eric Freedman
 

I just posted some before photos of the wiring after I took the covering  off of the wiring harness.

Fair Winds,

Eric Freedman


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] The crazy wiring of the Yanmar isolated ground on my 4jh3hte Hull #376 SM

Eric Freedman
 

Kent,

Yanmar uses plain copper wire in their harnesses. Normal USA wire is tinned. I believe some of my problems were the fact that he wires corroded over time, Secondly a number of wires that Amel selected to use are too small a gauge for the current/distance..

Having  soldered , changed, and rewired most of the engine harness I cannot say it was something specific except time and wrong wire sizing.

Fair Winds

 

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Sunday, August 14, 2016 6:47 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] The crazy wiring of the Yanmar isolated ground on my 4jh3hte Hull #376 SM

 

 

Congrats, Eric!  So what did you find was the problem?

Kent

SM243

Kristy

 


From: "kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Sunday, August 14, 2016 2:42 AM
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] The crazy wiring of the Yanmar isolated ground on my 4jh3hte Hull #376 SM

 

 

I thought I had solved the problem of the erratic starting and stopping of my engine. I finally threw in the towel and the last few days I have removed all the plastic covering of the entire engine harness and the gooey black electrical tape that was used 14 years ago to close the corrugated covering of the wires.

 

I have found a number of connections that work but make no sense as there are much simpler ways to accomplish the same thing.

 

Tomorrow I will take some photos an explain the improvements I am making to the wiring harness.

 

One series of improvements will be to remove soldered splices that the factory did to make the engine an isolated ground. I will run non spliced cables directly from point to point. a number of these connections are in the middle of a run of wire just soldered and taped together.

 

To make things worse these connections are under the area of the turbo and totally inaccessible unless you remove the entire engine harness from the oil filter side.

 

The good news is I have it figured out and the engine now works perfectly.

More to follow.