Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Explanation of Bonding System

karkauai
 

The biggest difference between the Amel bonding system and a typically wired ABYC (American Boat and Yacht Council) boat, is that the DC system does not use the bonding system as the DC negative.  There should be no connections between the DC system and the bonding system on your Amel.  If there is a DC connection, and a fault occurs in the DC wiring or equipment that is not enough to trip the breaker, stray current can go out through the underwater metallic parts of the boat and cause severe electrolytic corrosion to those metals.

I have not been able to identify a connection between the DC negative and the bonding system on Kristy, despite 100+ hrs of looking and two days of a marine electrician specializing in this.  I have decided to keep looking when/if I see any evidence of a current leak.  I am watching my zincs closely and monitor hull potential regularly with a silver/silver chloride reference electrode and multimeter.

OK, all you engineers and electrical and Amel gurus...fire away!  I'm still eager to learn what I still don't understand.

Kent
SM243
Kristy




On Aug 16, 2016, at 11:45 AM, sailor63109@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Ian,


When you're back in Brunswick let me know, we're on dock 14 in BLM.

First, I'm not an expert in bonding systems.  But here is what I understand.

If you connect different metals together with a conductor, one will corrode (the anode and less noble metal), and the other will not (cathode and more noble metal).  

Seawater will conduct electricity.  

When seawater is in contact with different metals (say a stainless steel pump impeller and a bronze seacock) one of these is less noble and will corrode (the anode).  Zinc is more anodic than the other metals on your boat.  By connecting all the metals that are in contact with seawater, and then connecting that wire to the zinc anode on the rudder, the zinc will corrode and protect the other metals in contact with seawater.

This is a form of "cathodic protection", check wikipedia for a more detailed explanation of cathodic protection.  This is an electro-chemical reaction.

Duane
Wanderer, SM #477


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Jabsco Quite Flush Toilet Maintenance and Head Smell

Bill Kinney <greatketch@...>
 

Jim,

I am very familar with Vacuflush heads, and have had nothing but good experiences with them.  But you should be aware that they have a specifically designed air-gap backflow preventer in the fresh water supply line as part of their system.

Piping freshwater directly to your toilet without such an air-gap device is not a good idea. 

Bill Kinney
SM #160, Harmonie
Narragansett Bay, RI
“Ships and men rot in port."





On Aug 16, 2016, at 18:03, Jim Anderson capt.anderson@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


I'll try taking out just the two screws and the niple for the next joker valve change. 

I flush with fresh water from the shower most of the time. On the long term to-do wish list is installing a y-valve/selector valve in the engine room for each head's supply to be able to select fresh or sea water supply. Since all vacu-flush heads on other boats are always plumbed with fresh water flush only I don't think there is more than a 1 in 100,000 chance of contaminating the fresh water supply. But if I ever get around to this I will certainly use check/joker valves, and gravity to reduce any posibility of back-flow.
Jim




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] illustration of the Galvanic Isolator Installation

karkauai
 

Hi Alex,
Your #289 is fairly close to my #243.

I'm not on the boat, so writing this from memory.  If I've left something out or am still clueless about something, please chime in.

 If Nikimat is like Kristy, the 110AC shore power will go directly to a box on the forward bulkhead, up against the cockpit floor.  It terminates at a 110AC 30A breaker there.  From the breaker, it goes to your 110->220 AC transformer.  On Kristy the transformer is a cubical box on the forward end of the shelf above the generator.
The converted 220AC power output (which will be the same frequency as the input, 60Hz) then goes back to the box on the bulkhead to a female plug marked "220 via the transformer" (sorry, it's inFrench and I can't remember it exactly).  To use 110 shore power, you have to insert the male plug in this receptacle. (For 220 shore power it has to be plugged into the other receptacle on the front of that box marked 2"20AC Sur Le Quai".
From either receptacle, it then goes to the automatic switch which chooses generator power over shore power.  This is above the generator. I don't remember how it is marked.  There is another box near there marked 220AC that has the relays for the Air Conditioners that turn on the 220AC raw water pump which cools all three A/C units.
From that automatic switch, all 220AC power goes to the 220 breakers in the galley.

If you have a 220 inverter, power goes from it to the 220 panel receptacles and microwave breakers.  I think others have a little different set up with the inverter.

In a post a year or so ago, Olivier suggested that you could cover both 220AC and 110AC shore power by putting the galvanic isolator in the ground wire that goes from the box on the forward bulkhead in the engine room to the automatic switch above the generator.  My understanding is that the 110->220 transformer is an "isolation transformer", and having it between the shore power and the galvanic isolator is not a problem.  The only other item that is between shore power and the galvanic isolator with this placement is the 110 breaker in the box on the forward engine room bulkhead.

Hop that helps
Kent
SM243
Kristy


On Aug 16, 2016, at 2:58 PM, Alexandre Uster von Baar uster@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Good afternoon Derick,

Thanks for the compliment and also to pay attention to the details!!!

You are totally correct, currently only the 220 volt is connected.
Electricity is my weakest subject, so building confidence!

I was just thinking last night the same thing you mentioned!
The 110 Volt earth should fit inside the electric “domino”.

My 110 volt doesn’t have any shore plug… I need to open the box and look at what color cable I have and see where they go.

Do you have both shore power?
If so what good options could be good to have?

I assume the 30 A 125 Volt?
http://www.frugal-mariner.com/images/img0565.png

Does any of you have other plug for European, South American, etc. Marinas?

Once I take the pictures, i will make a post just for it.

Thanks again, sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Club Nautico de San Juan, Puerto Rico

--------------------------------------------
On Tue, 8/16/16, derickgates@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] illustration of the Galvanic Isolator Installation
To: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Tuesday, August 16, 2016, 1:23 PM


 









Alexandre,
Nicely illustrated, as always.
 Thank you for the instructive pictures!
I note that the way you have hooked
up the galvanic isolator, only the 230V shore line is
isolated.  The 110V shore line is not (yet) protected.
 You can protect the 110V shore line using the same
isolator by hooking it up similarly simultaneously.
 Disconnect the 110V ground from the common post in the
box, and connect it to the input side of the galvanic
isolator using the same connection point as the 230V shore
ground and you have done it!  (I.e. Change your 2-wire
connector to a three-wire connector.)
That way you are protected no matter
which shore line you use!
Derick
GatesSM2K#400Currently on the hard in
Antigua for hurricane season









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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Jabsco Quite Flush Toilet Maintenance and Head Smell

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Hello Jim,

Personally I only use the shower head to flush the toilet as you are doing now.

I am not sure it is worth installing Y valve, selector, etc. but I am sure you can spend that time and money on many other things !!!
Plus keep your AMEL as original.

Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Club Nautico de San Juan, Puerto Rico



--------------------------------------------

On Tue, 8/16/16, Jim Anderson capt.anderson@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Jabsco Quite Flush Toilet Maintenance and Head Smell
To: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Tuesday, August 16, 2016, 5:03 PM


 









I'll try taking out just the
two screws and the niple for the next joker valve change.

I flush with fresh water from the shower most
of the time. On the long term to-do wish list is installing
a y-valve/selector valve in the engine room for each
head's supply to be able to select fresh or sea water
supply. Since all vacu-flush heads on other boats are always
plumbed with fresh water flush only I don't think there
is more than a 1 in 100,000 chance of contaminating the
fresh water supply. But if I ever get around to this I will
certainly use check/joker valves, and gravity to reduce any
posibility of back-flow.

Jim










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Re: Jabsco Quite Flush Toilet Maintenance and Head Smell

Jim Anderson
 

I'll try taking out just the two screws and the niple for the next joker valve change.

I flush with fresh water from the shower most of the time. On the long term to-do wish list is installing a y-valve/selector valve in the engine room for each head's supply to be able to select fresh or sea water supply. Since all vacu-flush heads on other boats are always plumbed with fresh water flush only I don't think there is more than a 1 in 100,000 chance of contaminating the fresh water supply. But if I ever get around to this I will certainly use check/joker valves, and gravity to reduce any posibility of back-flow.
Jim


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] illustration of the Galvanic Isolator Installation

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Good afternoon Derick,

Thanks for your reply!
Ok, glad to know the plug fitted on your is the 30 A 125 Volt, I am likely to do the same.

I did the same, I attached an extension from the European 3-Prong plug to the 125/250 Volt 50 Amp shore power plug.
So far this is only what I have been using, but in Dominican Republic I was closed to have to use a 110 Volt shore power and was not ready for it.

Thanks for reminding me, but I am very aware the frequency will remain the same (plus my newly installed Blue Sea AC multimeter will confirm the frequency).
I am also aware that I will loose half the Amp and that when I connect to a 30 Amp 110 Volt shore power, I will get 15 Amp at 220 Volt, another great use of the Blue Sea AC multimeter !!!

I was aware about the 32 amp limit, BUT I don’t understand the: “be sure not to leave your "extra" cable tightly coiled because it will generate a lot of heat at 16 to 30 amps, enough to melt the insulation”. Could you please tell me more? On or off forum? I don’t want to make mistake…

Also, very curious about your “other” short linker cables… which one are they.

I will post tomorrow some pictures of the plugs I have, some I have no clue…

Thanks again for your reply Derick !!!

Sincerely, Alexandre




--------------------------------------------

On Tue, 8/16/16, derickgates@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] illustration of the Galvanic Isolator Installation
To: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Tuesday, August 16, 2016, 3:03 PM


 









Alexandre,
My
boat was the U.S. Demonstration boat, originally owned by
Joel Potter.  Like yours, it was fitted out with the 110V
to 230V transformer.  The plug on the end of the 110V shore
cable is like the one you have illustrated.  Originally I
used this cable in Saint Thomas, being a U.S. territory.
 Then I set up a short linker cable that could be attached
to the European 3-prong plug on the 230V cable supplied by
Amel, and convert it to a standard U.S. 220V plug.  That
230V cable is now my standard to connect to shore power,
with the adaptor linker (in the U.S. And the BVI and Antigua
and Saint Lucia) or without the adaptor linker in Guadeloupe
and Martinique.
Previous owners have gotten me well
supplied with additional short linker cables to allow
connection to other types of plugs.  
If you have not used your
transformer yet, be aware that although it will create
230Volts from 110Volts, it DOES NOT CHANGE THE FREQUENCY.
 That is to say, if the 110 Volt shore power is 60 Hz,
which would be standard, you cannot run the dishwasher,
clothes washer, or Dessalator because they require
50Hz.
Also note that
while you can add an adaptor plug that will feed you 50 or
more amps, the Amel wiring was set up to take a maximum of
32 amps.  I know you have recently installed a meter to
measure the amps and watts being consumed via shore power,
so you should have no trouble monitoring this.  Even so, be
sure not to leave your "extra" cable tightly
coiled because it will generate a lot of heat at 16 to 30
amps, enough to melt the insulation - ask me how I know
this...
Derick
GatesSM2K#400Currently on the hard in
Antigua for hurricane season









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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Lofrans Winch Mounting

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Duane. Yes there is an embedded mild steel plate which lovingly will not let go of the stainless steel bolt. Highly likely that if you try to remove it the last one will wring off. Don't remove it unless you really need to. Draw the oil out with a pump and a small diameter tube.
Regards
Danny
Sm 299
Ocean pearl

Sent from my Vodafone Smart

On Aug 17, 2016 5:05 AM, "sailor63109@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Alexandre,


There was a discussion on oil pumps in the past few months, and one commentor noted a small diameter hose was good for the Lofrans.

I would definitely not unbolt that beast if it wasn't necessary.  Lots of wiring and it may be that there is an embedded plate with the bolt corroded fast.

Does anyone know if the mounting bolts can be just turned out (i.e. is there an embedded plate below the winch for the mounting bolts)??

Duane
Wanderer, SM#477


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] illustration of the Galvanic Isolator Installation

Derick Gates
 

Alexandre,

My boat was the U.S. Demonstration boat, originally owned by Joel Potter.  Like yours, it was fitted out with the 110V to 230V transformer.  The plug on the end of the 110V shore cable is like the one you have illustrated.  Originally I used this cable in Saint Thomas, being a U.S. territory.  Then I set up a short linker cable that could be attached to the European 3-prong plug on the 230V cable supplied by Amel, and convert it to a standard U.S. 220V plug.  That 230V cable is now my standard to connect to shore power, with the adaptor linker (in the U.S. And the BVI and Antigua and Saint Lucia) or without the adaptor linker in Guadeloupe and Martinique.

Previous owners have gotten me well supplied with additional short linker cables to allow connection to other types of plugs.  

If you have not used your transformer yet, be aware that although it will create 230Volts from 110Volts, it DOES NOT CHANGE THE FREQUENCY.  That is to say, if the 110 Volt shore power is 60 Hz, which would be standard, you cannot run the dishwasher, clothes washer, or Dessalator because they require 50Hz.

Also note that while you can add an adaptor plug that will feed you 50 or more amps, the Amel wiring was set up to take a maximum of 32 amps.  I know you have recently installed a meter to measure the amps and watts being consumed via shore power, so you should have no trouble monitoring this.  Even so, be sure not to leave your "extra" cable tightly coiled because it will generate a lot of heat at 16 to 30 amps, enough to melt the insulation - ask me how I know this...

Derick Gates
SM2K#400
Currently on the hard in Antigua for hurricane season


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] illustration of the Galvanic Isolator Installation

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Good afternoon Derick,

Thanks for the compliment and also to pay attention to the details!!!

You are totally correct, currently only the 220 volt is connected.
Electricity is my weakest subject, so building confidence!

I was just thinking last night the same thing you mentioned!
The 110 Volt earth should fit inside the electric “domino”.

My 110 volt doesn’t have any shore plug… I need to open the box and look at what color cable I have and see where they go.

Do you have both shore power?
If so what good options could be good to have?

I assume the 30 A 125 Volt?
http://www.frugal-mariner.com/images/img0565.png

Does any of you have other plug for European, South American, etc. Marinas?

Once I take the pictures, i will make a post just for it.

Thanks again, sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Club Nautico de San Juan, Puerto Rico






--------------------------------------------

On Tue, 8/16/16, derickgates@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] illustration of the Galvanic Isolator Installation
To: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Tuesday, August 16, 2016, 1:23 PM


 









Alexandre,
Nicely illustrated, as always.
 Thank you for the instructive pictures!
I note that the way you have hooked
up the galvanic isolator, only the 230V shore line is
isolated.  The 110V shore line is not (yet) protected.
 You can protect the 110V shore line using the same
isolator by hooking it up similarly simultaneously.
 Disconnect the 110V ground from the common post in the
box, and connect it to the input side of the galvanic
isolator using the same connection point as the 230V shore
ground and you have done it!  (I.e. Change your 2-wire
connector to a three-wire connector.)
That way you are protected no matter
which shore line you use!
Derick
GatesSM2K#400Currently on the hard in
Antigua for hurricane season









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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] illustration of the Galvanic Isolator Installation

Derick Gates
 

Alexandre,

Nicely illustrated, as always.  Thank you for the instructive pictures!

I note that the way you have hooked up the galvanic isolator, only the 230V shore line is isolated.  The 110V shore line is not (yet) protected.  You can protect the 110V shore line using the same isolator by hooking it up similarly simultaneously.  Disconnect the 110V ground from the common post in the box, and connect it to the input side of the galvanic isolator using the same connection point as the 230V shore ground and you have done it!  (I.e. Change your 2-wire connector to a three-wire connector.)

That way you are protected no matter which shore line you use!

Derick Gates
SM2K#400
Currently on the hard in Antigua for hurricane season


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Lofrans Winch Mounting

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

ok wil do !!!

Alexandre


--------------------------------------------

On Tue, 8/16/16, Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Lofrans Winch Mounting
To: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Tuesday, August 16, 2016, 1:15 PM


 









You should still remove the bolts and
clean the salt from under the windlass.Kent

Sent from my
iPhone
On Aug 16, 2016, at 2:01
PM, Alexandre Uster von Baar uster@...
[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
wrote:
















 






Just saw your message. I read you had to unbolt
it, etc. I actually have the instruction.

But even thought the owner manual says to change the oil,
since Bill, etc. say it is not necessary to change the oil,
then I will keep it as it is...



Alexandre



--------------------------------------------

On Tue, 8/16/16, sailor63109@...
[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
wrote:



Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Lofrans Winch Mounting

To: amelyachtowners@...

Date: Tuesday, August 16, 2016, 12:05 PM





 



















Alexandre,

There was a discussion on oil pumps

in the past few months, and one commentor noted a small

diameter hose was good for the Lofrans.

I would definitely not unbolt that

beast if it wasn't necessary.  Lots of wiring and
it

may be that there is an embedded plate with the bolt

corroded fast.

Does

anyone know if the mounting bolts can be just turned out

(i.e. is there an embedded plate below the winch for the

mounting bolts)??

DuaneWanderer,

SM#477



















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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Lofrans Winch Mounting

karkauai
 

You should still remove the bolts and clean the salt from under the windlass.
Kent


On Aug 16, 2016, at 2:01 PM, Alexandre Uster von Baar uster@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Just saw your message. I read you had to unbolt it, etc. I actually have the instruction.
But even thought the owner manual says to change the oil, since Bill, etc. say it is not necessary to change the oil, then I will keep it as it is...

Alexandre

--------------------------------------------
On Tue, 8/16/16, sailor63109@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Lofrans Winch Mounting
To: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Tuesday, August 16, 2016, 12:05 PM


 









Alexandre,
There was a discussion on oil pumps
in the past few months, and one commentor noted a small
diameter hose was good for the Lofrans.
I would definitely not unbolt that
beast if it wasn't necessary.  Lots of wiring and it
may be that there is an embedded plate with the bolt
corroded fast.
Does
anyone know if the mounting bolts can be just turned out
(i.e. is there an embedded plate below the winch for the
mounting bolts)??
DuaneWanderer,
SM#477









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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Lofrans Winch Mounting

karkauai
 

I got the same advice from Lofrans a couple years ago.
Kent
SM243
Kristy


On Aug 16, 2016, at 1:18 PM, Ben Driver joedoakes66@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

FYI.  I inquired to Amel Marin about changing Lofrans oil.  They recommended against it.  They did recommend greasing cone but advised against oil change saying it wasn't necessary.  I Got this advise from their head maintenance man in May this year.  


Ben and Gayle
La Bella Vita 
SM #347


On Tuesday, August 16, 2016, 11:05 AM, sailor63109@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Alexandre,


There was a discussion on oil pumps in the past few months, and one commentor noted a small diameter hose was good for the Lofrans.

I would definitely not unbolt that beast if it wasn't necessary.  Lots of wiring and it may be that there is an embedded plate with the bolt corroded fast.

Does anyone know if the mounting bolts can be just turned out (i.e. is there an embedded plate below the winch for the mounting bolts)??

Duane
Wanderer, SM#477


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Lofrans Winch Mounting

karkauai
 

There are threaded plates in the deck.  I have had two of the bolts break off when trying to remove them.  I redrilled and tapped them, and use a slightly larger bolt that still fit through the holes in the windlass.  I service it every 6-12 months and always use lanacote or waterproof grease when reassembling.

Kent
SM 243
Kristy


On Aug 16, 2016, at 1:05 PM, sailor63109@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Alexandre,


There was a discussion on oil pumps in the past few months, and one commentor noted a small diameter hose was good for the Lofrans.

I would definitely not unbolt that beast if it wasn't necessary.  Lots of wiring and it may be that there is an embedded plate with the bolt corroded fast.

Does anyone know if the mounting bolts can be just turned out (i.e. is there an embedded plate below the winch for the mounting bolts)??

Duane
Wanderer, SM#477


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Lofrans Winch Mounting

karkauai
 

I also had a similar problem with the key shortly after I bought the boat.  The cone finally came off with 3 screw drivers and a lot of grunting and cursing.
The key slot in the cone was damaged, so I took it to a machine shop and they cut a new slot for the key.  It has worked fine since.  I'm religious about servicing it and using a snubber now.
Kent
SM243
Kristy


On Aug 16, 2016, at 11:55 AM, Alexandre Uster von Baar uster@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Good morning Duane,

I feel now terrible to have inspired you to service the windlass…

Here are pictures of used spare parts that came with the boat.
You can see the space for the key bent as well as inner and outer gipsy bent.

http://nikimat.com/lofrans_tigres_windlass_used_parts.html

I throw these away but purchase a spare of each (which is probably not necessary).

One of my next project is to change the oil of the windlass (and I understood it needs to be unbolted), so if you can take pictures..

Good luck…

Sincerely, Alexandre

--------------------------------------------
On Tue, 8/16/16, sailor63109@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Lofrans Winch Mounting
To: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Tuesday, August 16, 2016, 10:05 AM


 









I've been trying to remove the
inner clutch cone without success.  The key is binding in
the clutch cone key-slot.  (picture the clutch cone slot at
11:00, the drive shaft slot at noon, and the key tipped to
stay in both slots).  
I tried using a bearing
splitter, which is the only puller that can be gotten
between the clutch cone and the aluminum casing, and the
puller then pushes against the drive shaft.  It bent the
edge of the clutch cone but did not move one
bit.
I decided to remove the
winch and send it to Lofrans for repair.  Looking in the
chain locker, directly below the windlass, I don't see
any nuts for the four mounting bolts.
 
Are the nut embedded in the
deck?  I started to turn one of the bolts and didn't
get a good feeling about it.
Duane









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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Lofrans Winch Mounting

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Just saw your message. I read you had to unbolt it, etc. I actually have the instruction.
But even thought the owner manual says to change the oil, since Bill, etc. say it is not necessary to change the oil, then I will keep it as it is...

Alexandre



--------------------------------------------

On Tue, 8/16/16, sailor63109@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Lofrans Winch Mounting
To: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Tuesday, August 16, 2016, 12:05 PM


 









Alexandre,
There was a discussion on oil pumps
in the past few months, and one commentor noted a small
diameter hose was good for the Lofrans.
I would definitely not unbolt that
beast if it wasn't necessary.  Lots of wiring and it
may be that there is an embedded plate with the bolt
corroded fast.
Does
anyone know if the mounting bolts can be just turned out
(i.e. is there an embedded plate below the winch for the
mounting bolts)??
DuaneWanderer,
SM#477









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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Lofrans Winch Mounting

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Ok then...
One less project...

Alexandre



--------------------------------------------

On Tue, 8/16/16, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Lofrans Winch Mounting
To: "amelyachtowners@..." <amelyachtowners@...>
Date: Tuesday, August 16, 2016, 12:35 PM


 









Duane,
I have helped other owners with this
issue. Most have been exactly as you have
described.
My
recommendation is that you can probably leave it as is, but
be sure you grease it and use a snubber.
I agree on not changing the oil.
There is really no reason to change the oil
because:If there is any slivers of metal
or any other heavy substances in the oil you probably will
not retrieve them by siphoning, and these pieces will
probably do no harm as they will sink to the bottom. There
is no oil pump...just splash-oiling.The windlass is
not an internal combustion engine that will change the oil
by heat.
However, make
sure that there is sufficient oil by using a small stiff
wire through the fill hole to check the oil level. If you
overfill it, you will likely get some minor seepage at the
axle seals. I find it impossible to use the sight glass to
determine the level, but use the wire to ensure that the
level is at the sight glass.

BillBeBe
387
On Tue, Aug 16, 2016 at
10:18 AM, Ben Driver @JoeDoakes
[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
wrote:















 











FYI.  I inquired to Amel Marin about
changing Lofrans oil.  They recommended against it.
 They did recommend greasing cone but advised against
oil change saying it wasn't necessary.  I Got this
advise from their head maintenance man in May this year.
 


Ben and GayleLa Bella
Vita SM #347Sent from
Yahoo Mail for iPhone

On
Tuesday, August 16, 2016, 11:05 AM, sailor63109@...
[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.
com> wrote:
 









Alexandre,
There was a discussion on oil pumps
in the past few months, and one commentor noted a small
diameter hose was good for the Lofrans.
I would definitely not unbolt that
beast if it wasn't necessary.  Lots of wiring and it
may be that there is an embedded plate with the bolt
corroded fast.
Does
anyone know if the mounting bolts can be just turned out
(i.e. is there an embedded plate below the winch for the
mounting bolts)??
DuaneWanderer,
SM#477










































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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Lofrans Winch Mounting

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Duane,

I have helped other owners with this issue. Most have been exactly as you have described.

My recommendation is that you can probably leave it as is, but be sure you grease it and use a snubber.

I agree on not changing the oil. There is really no reason to change the oil because:
  • If there is any slivers of metal or any other heavy substances in the oil you probably will not retrieve them by siphoning, and these pieces will probably do no harm as they will sink to the bottom. There is no oil pump...just splash-oiling.
  • The windlass is not an internal combustion engine that will change the oil by heat.
However, make sure that there is sufficient oil by using a small stiff wire through the fill hole to check the oil level. If you overfill it, you will likely get some minor seepage at the axle seals. I find it impossible to use the sight glass to determine the level, but use the wire to ensure that the level is at the sight glass.

Bill
BeBe 387

On Tue, Aug 16, 2016 at 10:18 AM, Ben Driver joedoakes66@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

FYI.  I inquired to Amel Marin about changing Lofrans oil.  They recommended against it.  They did recommend greasing cone but advised against oil change saying it wasn't necessary.  I Got this advise from their head maintenance man in May this year.  


Ben and Gayle
La Bella Vita 
SM #347


On Tuesday, August 16, 2016, 11:05 AM, sailor63109@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

Alexandre,


There was a discussion on oil pumps in the past few months, and one commentor noted a small diameter hose was good for the Lofrans.

I would definitely not unbolt that beast if it wasn't necessary.  Lots of wiring and it may be that there is an embedded plate with the bolt corroded fast.

Does anyone know if the mounting bolts can be just turned out (i.e. is there an embedded plate below the winch for the mounting bolts)??

Duane
Wanderer, SM#477



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Lofrans Winch Mounting

Ben and Gayle Super Maramu #347
 

FYI.  I inquired to Amel Marin about changing Lofrans oil.  They recommended against it.  They did recommend greasing cone but advised against oil change saying it wasn't necessary.  I Got this advise from their head maintenance man in May this year.  


Ben and Gayle
La Bella Vita 
SM #347


On Tuesday, August 16, 2016, 11:05 AM, sailor63109@... [amelyachtowners]

 

Alexandre,


There was a discussion on oil pumps in the past few months, and one commentor noted a small diameter hose was good for the Lofrans.

I would definitely not unbolt that beast if it wasn't necessary.  Lots of wiring and it may be that there is an embedded plate with the bolt corroded fast.

Does anyone know if the mounting bolts can be just turned out (i.e. is there an embedded plate below the winch for the mounting bolts)??

Duane
Wanderer, SM#477


Re: Lofrans Winch Mounting

Duane Siegfri
 

By the way, I'm thinking of leaving the inner clutch cone as is and just clean up the clutch surfaces and grease them.  If the inner clutch cone is jammed into place by that key, I can't see the downside to leaving it that way.  Any thoughts of why that's a problem?

Thanks,
Duane