Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Santorin Dip stick./ Fuel Guage

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Eric,

I can't help you precisely, but can give you a clue. I track fuel consumption by the number of hours on the engine. I use 3.5 liters/hour for the Yanmar 100hp Turbo. Most of the RPM range between 1800 and 2000. This 3.5 liters is a 4,000 hour average and within 5% of actual each time I fill the tank.

Possibly someone with a Santorin can give you the number you need, or just start with a safe 4 liters an hour and adjust with experience.

Bill
BeBe 387

On Tue, Sep 6, 2016 at 7:48 PM, ericmeury@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

The original fuel dip stick was broken in pieces so i got a new one made.  As soon as i put it in the new one snapped at the bend of the fuel fill hose.  After 3 beers and some we finally got it out.  



So what are my options for monitoring fuel level.



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Chain counter

Alan Leslie
 

It was custom made for Amel
They no longer make them but I believe can repair them.
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437
Near Koumac, New Caledonia where an Australian kite surfer was killed by a shark today !!


Bilge Ground Strap

Duane Siegfri
 

Just a thought for all you Amel Owners out there.  I cleaned the bilge today for the first time on Wanderer and found about 6 inches of the ground strap missing.  Bill Rouse has a great explanation of the replacement, just go to Photos and search for "bilge ground strap". I ordered a new copper bar from onlinemetals.com to fit the dimensions Bill gives for 1/8" x 48" copper bar.  I haven't checked but I'll bet the copper in the bilge is copper "foil", somewhat thinner than 1/8".


Duane

Wanderer, SM#477 


Santorin Dip stick./ Fuel Guage

ericmeury@...
 

The original fuel dip stick was broken in pieces so i got a new one made.  As soon as i put it in the new one snapped at the bend of the fuel fill hose.  After 3 beers and some we finally got it out.  


So what are my options for monitoring fuel level.


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Chain counter

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Ben

It is only a Raymarine cover...nothing else is Raymarine. 

Pat,

It was made for Amel by Pochon in France...they no longer make it, but may repair it. Probably any electronics guy can repair it because the control box is fairly simple. The part that fails seems to always be the sensor which is made by IFM Efector, Inc - IFM.com‎. The original sensor was model number IB5076, which has been replaced with model number IB5124. Follow this link and order one for $110: http://www.ifm.com/products/us/ds/IB5124.htm

Bill
BeBe 387

On Tue, Sep 6, 2016 at 6:41 PM, Ben Driver joedoakes66@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

My chain counter display is Raymarine.  Not sure internally its Raymarine but display cover is such. 

Ben and Gayle
La Bella Vita
SM #347
6S


On Sep 6, 2016, at 3:29 PM, Bill greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

The chain counter on our boat had been replaced by a model from Quick.  It's not quite a "drop-in" replacement, but is a nice piece of equipment.

A Quick CHC1202M. Like this:

Bill Kinney
SM#160, Harmonie
Narragansett Bay, RI, USA


On Sep 6, 2016, at 17:22, Andrew Lamb andrew.lamb@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

Pat

Our Chain counter also stopped working I made contact with Pochon who do not make these anymore but can repair them - email is accueilsavlr 'at ' pochon.com

Andrew
Ronpische
SM 472


On 6 Sep 2016, at 23:19, Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

Alan, I looked through the Pochon Catalogue , it looked like they are a distributor of thousands of marine products , but I could not find the chain counter.Do you know that they manufacture , rather than just sell ? I figure the Z has to stand for something.
Thanks,
Pat SM 123


-----Original Message-----
From: divanz620@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tue, Sep 6, 2016 4:24 pm
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Chain counter

 
They were manufactured by Pochon in France

Pochon S. A.
Avenue Michel CREPEAU78501 
17000 La Rochelle
France
Tel.: +33-546 413 053
Fax: +33-546 505 857
E-Mail:commercial@...
WEB: www.pochon.com
Mr. Didier Dupois

Good luck

Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] How to replace the “eye” of the chain counter?

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

The chain counter sensor is held in place by RTV. You will need to push it out.

See this Photo Album and read the notes published on the 2nd photo.

On Tue, Sep 6, 2016 at 5:07 PM, Alexandre Uster von Baar uster@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 


Good afternoon,

I am having a little unknown…
Could you please explain to me how to change the eye of the chain counter?
Is there a trick?
I see some silicone on mine…

If you could please look at the (7) pictures:
http://nikimat.com/lofrans_tigres_windlass_chain_counter_eye.html
Thanks in advance!

Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Club Nautico de San Juan, Puerto Rico



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Chain counter

Ben and Gayle Super Maramu #347
 

My chain counter display is Raymarine.  Not sure internally its Raymarine but display cover is such. 

Ben and Gayle
La Bella Vita
SM #347
6S


On Sep 6, 2016, at 3:29 PM, Bill greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

The chain counter on our boat had been replaced by a model from Quick.  It's not quite a "drop-in" replacement, but is a nice piece of equipment.

A Quick CHC1202M. Like this:

Bill Kinney
SM#160, Harmonie
Narragansett Bay, RI, USA


On Sep 6, 2016, at 17:22, Andrew Lamb andrew.lamb@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Pat

Our Chain counter also stopped working I made contact with Pochon who do not make these anymore but can repair them - email is accueilsavlr 'at ' pochon.com

Andrew
Ronpische
SM 472


On 6 Sep 2016, at 23:19, Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Alan, I looked through the Pochon Catalogue , it looked like they are a distributor of thousands of marine products , but I could not find the chain counter.Do you know that they manufacture , rather than just sell ? I figure the Z has to stand for something.
Thanks,
Pat SM 123


-----Original Message-----
From: divanz620@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Tue, Sep 6, 2016 4:24 pm
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Chain counter

 
They were manufactured by Pochon in France

Pochon S. A.
Avenue Michel CREPEAU78501 
17000 La Rochelle
France
Tel.: +33-546 413 053
Fax: +33-546 505 857
E-Mail:commercial@...
WEB: www.pochon.com
Mr. Didier Dupois

Good luck

Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437


[Amel Yacht Owners] How to replace the “eye” of the chain counter?

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Good afternoon,

I am having a little unknown…
Could you please explain to me how to change the eye of the chain counter?
Is there a trick?
I see some silicone on mine…

If you could please look at the (7) pictures:
http://nikimat.com/lofrans_tigres_windlass_chain_counter_eye.html
Thanks in advance!

Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Club Nautico de San Juan, Puerto Rico


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Chain counter

Bill <greatketch@...>
 

The chain counter on our boat had been replaced by a model from Quick.  It's not quite a "drop-in" replacement, but is a nice piece of equipment.

A Quick CHC1202M. Like this:

Bill Kinney
SM#160, Harmonie
Narragansett Bay, RI, USA


On Sep 6, 2016, at 17:22, Andrew Lamb andrew.lamb@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Pat

Our Chain counter also stopped working I made contact with Pochon who do not make these anymore but can repair them - email is accueilsavlr 'at ' pochon.com

Andrew
Ronpische
SM 472


On 6 Sep 2016, at 23:19, Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Alan, I looked through the Pochon Catalogue , it looked like they are a distributor of thousands of marine products , but I could not find the chain counter.Do you know that they manufacture , rather than just sell ? I figure the Z has to stand for something.
Thanks,
Pat SM 123


-----Original Message-----
From: divanz620@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Tue, Sep 6, 2016 4:24 pm
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Chain counter

 
They were manufactured by Pochon in France

Pochon S. A.
Avenue Michel CREPEAU78501 
17000 La Rochelle
France
Tel.: +33-546 413 053
Fax: +33-546 505 857
E-Mail:commercial@...
WEB: www.pochon.com
Mr. Didier Dupois

Good luck

Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Chain counter

Andrew & Kate Lamb
 

Pat

Our Chain counter also stopped working I made contact with Pochon who do not make these anymore but can repair them - email is accueilsavlr 'at ' pochon.com

Andrew
Ronpische
SM 472


On 6 Sep 2016, at 23:19, Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Alan, I looked through the Pochon Catalogue , it looked like they are a distributor of thousands of marine products , but I could not find the chain counter.Do you know that they manufacture , rather than just sell ? I figure the Z has to stand for something.
Thanks,
Pat SM 123


-----Original Message-----
From: divanz620@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Tue, Sep 6, 2016 4:24 pm
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Chain counter

 
They were manufactured by Pochon in France

Pochon S. A.
Avenue Michel CREPEAU78501 
17000 La Rochelle
France
Tel.: +33-546 413 053
Fax: +33-546 505 857
E-Mail:commercial@...
WEB: www.pochon.com
Mr. Didier Dupois

Good luck

Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Chain counter

Patrick McAneny
 

Alan, I looked through the Pochon Catalogue , it looked like they are a distributor of thousands of marine products , but I could not find the chain counter.Do you know that they manufacture , rather than just sell ? I figure the Z has to stand for something.
Thanks,
Pat SM 123


-----Original Message-----
From: divanz620@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Tue, Sep 6, 2016 4:24 pm
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Chain counter

 
They were manufactured by Pochon in France

Pochon S. A.
Avenue Michel CREPEAU78501 
17000 La Rochelle
France
Tel.: +33-546 413 053
Fax: +33-546 505 857
E-Mail:commercial@...
WEB: www.pochon.com
Mr. Didier Dupois

Good luck

Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437


Re: Chain counter

Alan Leslie
 

They were manufactured by Pochon in France

Pochon S. A.
Avenue Michel CREPEAU78501 
17000 La Rochelle
France
Tel.: +33-546 413 053
Fax: +33-546 505 857
E-Mail:commercial@...
WEB: www.pochon.com
Mr. Didier Dupois

Good luck

Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437


Chain counter

Patrick McAneny
 

My electrician asked me to ask the group if anyone knew, who manufactured the chain counter display. Its black , square and has what appears to be a Z on the face of it. I need to get one fast , so appreciate any leads.

Thanks,

Pat SM123


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] what type of product to put on bolt attaching the windlass to deck?

Bill Kinney <greatketch@...>
 

Alexandre,

For any other application on the boat I can think of, 450F would be good enough, but for an exhaust manifold, it is not.

May I suggest finding an auto part store and asking them?  I’ll bet they have Never-Seez or something very much like it. It is something that any good auto mechanic would add to a bolt threaded into an exhaust manifold..

Bill

On Sep 6, 2016, at 12:19, Alexandre Uster von Baar uster@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Now an email, they won’t ship Never Seez to Puerto Rico…  

Any 2nd choice?  

Tef gel says it can take up to 450*F
Is that enough?  

Thanks in advance, sincerely, Alexandre

--------------------------------------------
On Tue, 9/6/16, James Alton lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] what type of product to put on bolt attaching the windlass to deck?
To: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Tuesday, September 6, 2016, 10:56 AM


 









Bill,
   I must say that this was the
best explanation I have ever read for why I have had so many
problems with stainless on stainless threads over the
years..thank you!  I can now imagine the little batteries
that are formed between the active and passive locations in
such a fastener after Mother Nature adds her natural
electrolyte…..  
  Bronze and stainless threads
seems almost never gall.  Is the softer bronze acting as
sort of a lubricant?
  I was thinking that on Sueno
that I would probably start with a clean stainless windlass
bolt and a clean hole.  Add the Never Seez with a Q tip or
something similar to the embedded plate only, keeping it off
of the fibreglass.  Then apply my sealant between the
interface of the windlass and the deck but hold the windlass
up off of the deck as much as possible while the bolts were
inserted to keep from carrying the sealant down into the
Never Seezed area.  The objective being to avoid
contaminating the faying surfaces for the sealant to insure
a good seal.   It’s too bad that a good seal to keep the
water out also excludes the O2 needed for the stainless
oxide for form but I feel that keeping salt water out of
those holes is more important.  I can imagine that once
salt water migrates in around the plate that there is no
cleaning/drying it out.
   Please tell me how you would
do it since I am sure that you have put a lot more thought
into this than I have.
Best,
James AltonMaramu #220 SuenoSardinia
On Sep 6, 2016, at 12:04 PM, Bill
greatketch@...
[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
wrote:

If your intent is to take it
apart every two or three years to clean salt build up from
between the deck and the windlass housing as recommended by
Lofrans, pretty much anything will probably work.
 
I assume the deck plate is
stainless, as well as the bolts, so in this case you are
protecting against two issues, galvanic corrosion and
"galling" or "cold welding".
 
Most kinds of stainless steel can
exist in two forms "active" and
"passive" depending on the availability of free
oxygen.  These two forms are quite far apart on the
galvanic scale.  When stainless on stainless threads are
wet it sets up a good environment for active and passive
forms to exist close to each other and potentially cause
issues.  For this reason using a product that excludes
water from the joint is a good idea. Lanocote, tef-gel,
Never-Seez, or standard waterproof greases would all do this
for a least a couple years. 
A simple way to think about
stainless galling is that under very high pressures the
protective surface oxide layer rubs off, the
"pure" metal underneath "melts" into
itself and the parts become welded together.  In preventing
this, in my experience, Lanocote is good, Tef-Gel and
Never-Seez are better.  Some greases are good, some not so
much, at this.
So...  All told my
recommendation would be either tef-gel or never-seez, and
I'd know I could get them apart at any time in the
future with no problems. On my boat I'd most likely use
tef-gel only because it lives in my rigging tool bag, while
the never-seez lives in the engine room!
Bill KinneySM#160 HarmonieNarragansett Bay, RI,
USA



On Sep 6, 2016, at 09:37,
Alexandre Uster von Baar uster@... [amelyachtowners]
<amelyachtowners@...>
wrote:

 Good morning, 

To make story short, I removed
the windlass, etc. 

What type of product would you
put on the bolts attaching the windlass to the deck?  
Lanocote? Marine
grease?  

one was extremely difficult to
remove (4 hours) and i would prefer avoid that in the
future…

Thanks in
advance, 
Sincerely,
Alexandre
SM2K
#289 NIKIMAT
Club
Nautico de San Juan, Puerto Rico












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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] what type of product to put on bolt attaching the windlass to deck?

Bill Kinney <greatketch@...>
 

James,

Yes, bronze and stainless threads are pretty much always happy together.  Which is why I have always thought that using stainless steel turnbuckle bodies (rigging screws) was such a dumb idea.  Running on the stainless threads on the rigging studs under high load, if you weren’t really careful (and sometimes where you are!) they can lock together--forever.  Bronze bodied turnbuckles are readily available, and if you need the “shiny” look, just get the chrome plated ones.  

As for the why, I am not sure at the molecular level, but I suspect that the surface of the bronze just is not hard enough to scrape off the very hard chromium oxides on the surface of the stainless.  But that is just a guess, and a real metallurgist will have a better, and probably mush more complex, answer

When I install something on deck like this, I typically use butyl tape rather than silicon sealant.  It provides a lasting seal that is easily removed when needed, works with any materials, does not make a mess, it’s very inexpensive, and it has a long shelve life. All nice things for inventory on a cruising boat.

Bill Kinney
SM #160, Harmonie
Narragansett Bay, RI, USA
“Ships and men rot in port."





On Sep 6, 2016, at 11:56, James Alton lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Bill,


   I must say that this was the best explanation I have ever read for why I have had so many problems with stainless on stainless threads over the years..thank you!  I can now imagine the little batteries that are formed between the active and passive locations in such a fastener after Mother Nature adds her natural electrolyte…..  

  Bronze and stainless threads seems almost never gall.  Is the softer bronze acting as sort of a lubricant?

  I was thinking that on Sueno that I would probably start with a clean stainless windlass bolt and a clean hole.  Add the Never Seez with a Q tip or something similar to the embedded plate only, keeping it off of the fibreglass.  Then apply my sealant between the interface of the windlass and the deck but hold the windlass up off of the deck as much as possible while the bolts were inserted to keep from carrying the sealant down into the Never Seezed area.  The objective being to avoid contaminating the faying surfaces for the sealant to insure a good seal.   It’s too bad that a good seal to keep the water out also excludes the O2 needed for the stainless oxide for form but I feel that keeping salt water out of those holes is more important.  I can imagine that once salt water migrates in around the plate that there is no cleaning/drying it out.

   Please tell me how you would do it since I am sure that you have put a lot more thought into this than I have.

Best,

James Alton
Maramu #220 Sueno
Sardinia

On Sep 6, 2016, at 12:04 PM, Bill greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


If your intent is to take it apart every two or three years to clean salt build up from between the deck and the windlass housing as recommended by Lofrans, pretty much anything will probably work.  

I assume the deck plate is stainless, as well as the bolts, so in this case you are protecting against two issues, galvanic corrosion and "galling" or "cold welding".  

Most kinds of stainless steel can exist in two forms "active" and "passive" depending on the availability of free oxygen.  These two forms are quite far apart on the galvanic scale.  When stainless on stainless threads are wet it sets up a good environment for active and passive forms to exist close to each other and potentially cause issues.  For this reason using a product that excludes water from the joint is a good idea. Lanocote, tef-gel, Never-Seez, or standard waterproof greases would all do this for a least a couple years. 

A simple way to think about stainless galling is that under very high pressures the protective surface oxide layer rubs off, the "pure" metal underneath "melts" into itself and the parts become welded together.  In preventing this, in my experience, Lanocote is good, Tef-Gel and Never-Seez are better.  Some greases are good, some not so much, at this.

So...  All told my recommendation would be either tef-gel or never-seez, and I'd know I could get them apart at any time in the future with no problems. On my boat I'd most likely use tef-gel only because it lives in my rigging tool bag, while the never-seez lives in the engine room!

Bill Kinney
SM#160 Harmonie
Narragansett Bay, RI, USA




On Sep 6, 2016, at 09:37, Alexandre Uster von Baar uster@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Good morning, 

To make story short, I removed the windlass, etc. 

What type of product would you put on the bolts attaching the windlass to the deck?  
Lanocote? Marine grease?  

one was extremely difficult to remove (4 hours) and i would prefer avoid that in the future…

Thanks in advance, 
Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Club Nautico de San Juan, Puerto Rico






Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Masthead lights do not last

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

I will Martin!

Working on another one at the moment…

Sincerely, Alexandre




--------------------------------------------

On Tue, 9/6/16, Martin K luvkante@yahoo.com [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Masthead lights do not last
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tuesday, September 6, 2016, 9:33 AM


 









Hi Alexandre,
Thank you so much for
your fantastic photo-maintenance-guides!
I collect them, just in
case........
Please keep on
providing them!


MartinAMEL 54
#149MCHIARAcurrently
Benalmadena,on my way to Gibraltar,
Algarve, Madeira, Lancarote, St Lucia

Von
meinem iPad gesendet
Am
06.09.2016 um 13:17 schrieb Alexandre Uster von Baar uster@rocketmail.com
[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>:
















 






Good afternoon,



Do you have the Hypalon Velcro Paddle holder available?

http://www.abinflatablesusa.com/product/velcro-paddle-holder-dg/



If yes, how much are they and how much would be the shipping
for San Juan, Puerto Rico.



Sincerely, Alexandre



Windlass, Bill advice: White Lithium grease



Good morning Ben,



Mine is located in the forward passage/closet, near the
forward bathroom.

Where the main mast is bolted.



Here is a picture

http://nikimat.com/mast_tricolor_anchor_light_connection/mast_tricolor_anchor_light_connection_8.jpg



Or you can look at the whole process I did to trouble shot.


http://nikimat.com/mast_tricolor_anchor_light_connection_2.html



Note: for now I removed my voltage stabilizer, as it was
burn and I could not find the replacement parts.

I am using LED tricolor and anchor light, but this was just
changed 3 months ago, so not enough data to know if the bulb
will last.



On the 54 I would guess, situated near where the mast is
bolt on and the wires go through.



Sincerely, Alexandre

SM2K #289 NIKIMAT

Club Nautico de San Juan, Puerto Rico



--------------------------------------------

On Mon, 9/5/16, Martin K luvkante@yahoo.com
[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
wrote:



Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Masthead lights do not
last

To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com

Date: Monday, September 5, 2016, 2:10 PM





 



















Alexandre,

Where is your

voltage-stabilizer box located?

MartinAMEL 54 #149

"CHIARA"Currently

BenalmadenaOn my way to Lanzarote

and Caribbean



Von meinem

iPad gesendet

Am 05.09.2016 um

18:04 schrieb Alexandre Uster von Baar uster@rocketmail.com

[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>:

































 













Good afternoon Ben,







What type of 24 Volt bulb do you use?



LED?







Do you have (adjustable) voltage-stabilizers?







Here are pictures from when I did not what they were.



http://nikimat.com/mast_tricolor_anchor_light_connection.html







Mark (SM #275 Creampuff) told me they were DXE VR200
voltage

regulator.







Wish I could help more.







Alexandre







--------------------------------------------



On Mon, 9/5/16, joedoakes66@yahoo.com

[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>

wrote:







Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Masthead lights do not
last



To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com



Date: Monday, September 5, 2016, 10:22 AM











 







































Since we bought our SM last year (Feb 2015)



we've  replaced the anchor light bulb 5 times.

 The



boat was little used - fewer than 800 hours on engine

and



generator - and we've  had only the usual

maintenance



issues which makes this issue most perplexing.

 We're



trying to determine what could cause premature bulb



failures.  I've suspected a bad batch of bulbs; a

surge



in the electrical when running the generator; or
perhaps



corroded fitting causing an on/off for the bulb thereby



shortening their life. 



Has anyone had a similar experience?



 Also it would wonderful to have a source for high

quality



bulbs.



ThanksBen and



GayleLa Bella VitaSM



347Port Louis, Grenada







































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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Masthead lights do not last

karkauai
 

I routinely turn off all 24v equipment while doing an equalization cycle.  I have not had a charger with an automatic equalization cycle because I fear what the high voltages might do to equipment that remains on during the process.
Kent


On Tuesday, September 6, 2016 10:42 AM, "'Mike Ondra' mdondra@... [amelyachtowners]" wrote:


 
Most LED lights I have been seeing lately are rated at 10-30v. This was confirmed by an LED vendor. Hopefully that is becoming the manufacturing standard and would allow the range of voltages found on our vessels during normal operations. It does beg the question about equalizing the batteries at over 30v. If that is the case, perhaps lighting circuits should be turned off during equalization.
Mike Ondra
Aletes SM#240
Rock Hall, MD
 
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Tuesday, September 06, 2016 8:31 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Masthead lights do not last
 
 
Hi Pat,
It's my understanding that the new LED bulbs are much more tolerant to changes in voltage. When we charge our 24 V battery banks, absorption charge is usually in the 28.8 V range, when we equalize it is significantly over 30 V. If the bank is down in the mid-24 V range and we run a large winch or windless, the voltage may drop significantly below 24 V for a short time. Make sure that you check the voltage tolerances of the fixture/bulbs that you purchase.

Kent
SM243
Kristy 

On Sep 6, 2016, at 8:21 AM, Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 
An electrician thinking it was only a converter just last week removed mine and installed 24v bulbs . He did not realize it stabilized voltage and I always wondered what it was , now I know. If he still has it , I could ask him to reinstall it , but he would also have to go back up to change the bulb back to a 12v bulb. Is it worth it . If I went with a  LED tri-color would I need it?
Pat SM123




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] what type of product to put on bolt attaching the windlass to deck?

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Now an email, they won’t ship Never Seez to Puerto Rico…

Any 2nd choice?

Tef gel says it can take up to 450*F
Is that enough?

Thanks in advance, sincerely, Alexandre





--------------------------------------------

On Tue, 9/6/16, James Alton lokiyawl2@aol.com [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] what type of product to put on bolt attaching the windlass to deck?
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tuesday, September 6, 2016, 10:56 AM


 









Bill,
   I must say that this was the
best explanation I have ever read for why I have had so many
problems with stainless on stainless threads over the
years..thank you!  I can now imagine the little batteries
that are formed between the active and passive locations in
such a fastener after Mother Nature adds her natural
electrolyte…..  
  Bronze and stainless threads
seems almost never gall.  Is the softer bronze acting as
sort of a lubricant?
  I was thinking that on Sueno
that I would probably start with a clean stainless windlass
bolt and a clean hole.  Add the Never Seez with a Q tip or
something similar to the embedded plate only, keeping it off
of the fibreglass.  Then apply my sealant between the
interface of the windlass and the deck but hold the windlass
up off of the deck as much as possible while the bolts were
inserted to keep from carrying the sealant down into the
Never Seezed area.  The objective being to avoid
contaminating the faying surfaces for the sealant to insure
a good seal.   It’s too bad that a good seal to keep the
water out also excludes the O2 needed for the stainless
oxide for form but I feel that keeping salt water out of
those holes is more important.  I can imagine that once
salt water migrates in around the plate that there is no
cleaning/drying it out.
   Please tell me how you would
do it since I am sure that you have put a lot more thought
into this than I have.
Best,
James AltonMaramu #220 SuenoSardinia
On Sep 6, 2016, at 12:04 PM, Bill
greatketch@yahoo.com
[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
wrote:

If your intent is to take it
apart every two or three years to clean salt build up from
between the deck and the windlass housing as recommended by
Lofrans, pretty much anything will probably work.
 
I assume the deck plate is
stainless, as well as the bolts, so in this case you are
protecting against two issues, galvanic corrosion and
"galling" or "cold welding".
 
Most kinds of stainless steel can
exist in two forms "active" and
"passive" depending on the availability of free
oxygen.  These two forms are quite far apart on the
galvanic scale.  When stainless on stainless threads are
wet it sets up a good environment for active and passive
forms to exist close to each other and potentially cause
issues.  For this reason using a product that excludes
water from the joint is a good idea. Lanocote, tef-gel,
Never-Seez, or standard waterproof greases would all do this
for a least a couple years. 
A simple way to think about
stainless galling is that under very high pressures the
protective surface oxide layer rubs off, the
"pure" metal underneath "melts" into
itself and the parts become welded together.  In preventing
this, in my experience, Lanocote is good, Tef-Gel and
Never-Seez are better.  Some greases are good, some not so
much, at this.
So...  All told my
recommendation would be either tef-gel or never-seez, and
I'd know I could get them apart at any time in the
future with no problems. On my boat I'd most likely use
tef-gel only because it lives in my rigging tool bag, while
the never-seez lives in the engine room!
Bill KinneySM#160 HarmonieNarragansett Bay, RI,
USA



On Sep 6, 2016, at 09:37,
Alexandre Uster von Baar uster@rocketmail.com [amelyachtowners]
<amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
wrote:

 Good morning, 

To make story short, I removed
the windlass, etc. 

What type of product would you
put on the bolts attaching the windlass to the deck?  
Lanocote? Marine
grease?  

one was extremely difficult to
remove (4 hours) and i would prefer avoid that in the
future…

Thanks in
advance, 
Sincerely,
Alexandre
SM2K
#289 NIKIMAT
Club
Nautico de San Juan, Puerto Rico












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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] what type of product to put on bolt attaching the windlass to deck?

James Alton
 

Bill,

   I must say that this was the best explanation I have ever read for why I have had so many problems with stainless on stainless threads over the years..thank you!  I can now imagine the little batteries that are formed between the active and passive locations in such a fastener after Mother Nature adds her natural electrolyte…..  

  Bronze and stainless threads seems almost never gall.  Is the softer bronze acting as sort of a lubricant?

  I was thinking that on Sueno that I would probably start with a clean stainless windlass bolt and a clean hole.  Add the Never Seez with a Q tip or something similar to the embedded plate only, keeping it off of the fibreglass.  Then apply my sealant between the interface of the windlass and the deck but hold the windlass up off of the deck as much as possible while the bolts were inserted to keep from carrying the sealant down into the Never Seezed area.  The objective being to avoid contaminating the faying surfaces for the sealant to insure a good seal.   It’s too bad that a good seal to keep the water out also excludes the O2 needed for the stainless oxide for form but I feel that keeping salt water out of those holes is more important.  I can imagine that once salt water migrates in around the plate that there is no cleaning/drying it out.

   Please tell me how you would do it since I am sure that you have put a lot more thought into this than I have.

Best,

James Alton
Maramu #220 Sueno
Sardinia

On Sep 6, 2016, at 12:04 PM, Bill greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


If your intent is to take it apart every two or three years to clean salt build up from between the deck and the windlass housing as recommended by Lofrans, pretty much anything will probably work.  

I assume the deck plate is stainless, as well as the bolts, so in this case you are protecting against two issues, galvanic corrosion and "galling" or "cold welding".  

Most kinds of stainless steel can exist in two forms "active" and "passive" depending on the availability of free oxygen.  These two forms are quite far apart on the galvanic scale.  When stainless on stainless threads are wet it sets up a good environment for active and passive forms to exist close to each other and potentially cause issues.  For this reason using a product that excludes water from the joint is a good idea. Lanocote, tef-gel, Never-Seez, or standard waterproof greases would all do this for a least a couple years. 

A simple way to think about stainless galling is that under very high pressures the protective surface oxide layer rubs off, the "pure" metal underneath "melts" into itself and the parts become welded together.  In preventing this, in my experience, Lanocote is good, Tef-Gel and Never-Seez are better.  Some greases are good, some not so much, at this.

So...  All told my recommendation would be either tef-gel or never-seez, and I'd know I could get them apart at any time in the future with no problems. On my boat I'd most likely use tef-gel only because it lives in my rigging tool bag, while the never-seez lives in the engine room!

Bill Kinney
SM#160 Harmonie
Narragansett Bay, RI, USA




On Sep 6, 2016, at 09:37, Alexandre Uster von Baar uster@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Good morning, 

To make story short, I removed the windlass, etc. 

What type of product would you put on the bolts attaching the windlass to the deck?  
Lanocote? Marine grease?  

one was extremely difficult to remove (4 hours) and i would prefer avoid that in the future…

Thanks in advance, 
Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Club Nautico de San Juan, Puerto Rico




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] what type of product to put on bolt attaching the windlass to deck?

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Good morning Bill, James and Kent and thanks for your replies

The Never Seez is on its way, I was going to keep it for high temperature applications.

Kent, glad the waterproof grease is working for you.

I think I have tea gel, if not will use waterproof grease.

I am now stuck: can not unscrew the “things” that hold the brushes in the electric motor…
There was lots of rust on the case, I am afraid they are stuck for good…
Which is pretty sad as when I run out of brushes, will likely need a new motor…

Which leads me to another question:

How many of you and have changed the brushes on the windlass electric motor? How long did they last for those who anchor a lot.

Thanks again for your input!

Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Club Nautico de San Juan, Puerto Rico








--------------------------------------------

On Tue, 9/6/16, Bill greatketch@yahoo.com [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] what type of product to put on bolt attaching the windlass to deck?
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tuesday, September 6, 2016, 10:04 AM


 









If your intent is to take it
apart every two or three years to clean salt build up from
between the deck and the windlass housing as recommended by
Lofrans, pretty much anything will probably work.
 
I assume the deck
plate is stainless, as well as the bolts, so in this case
you are protecting against two issues, galvanic corrosion
and "galling" or "cold welding".
 
Most kinds of
stainless steel can exist in two forms "active"
and "passive" depending on the availability of
free oxygen.  These two forms are quite far apart on the
galvanic scale.  When stainless on stainless threads are
wet it sets up a good environment for active and passive
forms to exist close to each other and potentially cause
issues.  For this reason using a product that excludes
water from the joint is a good idea. Lanocote, tef-gel,
Never-Seez, or standard waterproof greases would all do this
for a least a couple years. 
A simple way to think about
stainless galling is that under very high pressures the
protective surface oxide layer rubs off, the
"pure" metal underneath "melts" into
itself and the parts become welded together.  In preventing
this, in my experience, Lanocote is good, Tef-Gel and
Never-Seez are better.  Some greases are good, some not so
much, at this.
So...
 All told my recommendation would be either tef-gel or
never-seez, and I'd know I could get them apart at any
time in the future with no problems. On my boat I'd most
likely use tef-gel only because it lives in my rigging tool
bag, while the never-seez lives in the engine
room!
Bill
KinneySM#160 HarmonieNarragansett Bay,
RI, USA



On Sep 6,
2016, at 09:37, Alexandre Uster von Baar uster@rocketmail.com
[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
wrote:
















 






Good morning,



To make story short, I removed the windlass, etc.



What type of product would you put on the bolts attaching
the windlass to the deck?

Lanocote? Marine grease?



one was extremely difficult to remove (4 hours) and i would
prefer avoid that in the future…



Thanks in advance,

Sincerely, Alexandre

SM2K #289 NIKIMAT

Club Nautico de San Juan, Puerto Rico
























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