Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] SM Jib Furler Failure.

karkauai
 

Just shooting from the hip here Bill, I've not heard of a failure like that before.  Glad you were able to get it furled manually...did you have the manual furler set up already?
Certainly corrosion the most likely culprit, but why such catastrophic failure?  1.  Could there have been some stray current involved?  2.  I'm sure it should be attached to the bonding system, if that failed, it might not have been protected.  The aluminum would go b4 the SS.  I couldn't keep paint on my furler despite two "professional" paint jobs.  I finally took it apart and had it powder coated 3 years ago and so far looks great.

Could the bolts have been tightened too much creating cracks that allowed water ingress?

Will be interested to hear what you find.

Kent
SM 243
Kristy

On Sep 22, 2016, at 10:58 AM, greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

In the SM jib furler, there is an aluminum plate that transfers the torque from the motor to the foil via the release pin.  It has one large hole in it that accepts the release pin, and smaller holes which take machine screws down into the rotating part of the motor.


Yesterday while sailing in 20 to 25 knots of wind, close-hauled, with the jib rolled up to its second reef mark, that plate self destructed, cracking into several pieces releasing the jib foil from the furler motor.  I am happy to report the manual furling system does work, after a fashion.  


I haven’t had the chance to disassemble things yet to see if other damage occurred as well which might have either caused, or been caused by, the plate failure.


Anybody see this failure before? Other than it’s old and showed signs of corrosion, which is certainly sufficient to be the primary cause, anybody have another potential cause I should look out for?


Bill Kinney

SM#160, Harmonie

Chesapeake Bay, VA, USA



SM Jib Furler Failure.

greatketch@...
 

In the SM jib furler, there is an aluminum plate that transfers the torque from the motor to the foil via the release pin.  It has one large hole in it that accepts the release pin, and smaller holes which take machine screws down into the rotating part of the motor.


Yesterday while sailing in 20 to 25 knots of wind, close-hauled, with the jib rolled up to its second reef mark, that plate self destructed, cracking into several pieces releasing the jib foil from the furler motor.  I am happy to report the manual furling system does work, after a fashion.  


I haven’t had the chance to disassemble things yet to see if other damage occurred as well which might have either caused, or been caused by, the plate failure.


Anybody see this failure before? Other than it’s old and showed signs of corrosion, which is certainly sufficient to be the primary cause, anybody have another potential cause I should look out for?


Bill Kinney

SM#160, Harmonie

Chesapeake Bay, VA, USA



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bonding

karkauai
 

The engine should be bonded separately from the CDrive.

Kent

On Sep 22, 2016, at 8:37 AM, sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

How is the Cdrive & engine protected , if it not connected to the bonding system. With the silver anode the electrician had a reading over 1000 mv at the C-Drive, and at the strap 804. With the battery connection off, everything off it was 804 , with everything on ,still 804 . I suppose the 804 could be explain by poor zinc/bolt contact and the test being conducted in fresh water. If the engine is not grounded / bonded , how is it protected?

Thanks ,

Pat SM 123


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bonding

karkauai
 

Hi Pat.  It sounds like your drive connection to the bonding system has failed.  Do you have a prop zinc?  On Kristy the connection to the bonding system is at one of the bolts on the housing at the top of the vertical drive shaft.  Around -1000mv hull potential is correct for your boat.  Your 804 (I assume really -804mv) reading indicates under protection of the whole system, so I would first check the connections between the strap and the rudder.  I hope you'll find something there, as that would be the simplest thing to fix.  If they are all OK, you'll need to check connections of the zincs to the rudder.  Only way I know to do that is haul the boat out and check continuity from the zinc to the rudder post.  I guess you could remove the zincs and wire brush the bolts and bottle brush the bolt holes with a SS or Brass brush if you can find one.

Let us know what you find.

Kent
SM243
Kristy

On Sep 22, 2016, at 8:37 AM, sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

How is the Cdrive & engine protected , if it not connected to the bonding system. With the silver anode the electrician had a reading over 1000 mv at the C-Drive, and at the strap 804. With the battery connection off, everything off it was 804 , with everything on ,still 804 . I suppose the 804 could be explain by poor zinc/bolt contact and the test being conducted in fresh water. If the engine is not grounded / bonded , how is it protected?

Thanks ,

Pat SM 123


Bonding

Patrick McAneny
 

How is the Cdrive & engine protected , if it not connected to the bonding system. With the silver anode the electrician had a reading over 1000 mv at the C-Drive, and at the strap 804. With the battery connection off, everything off it was 804 , with everything on ,still 804 . I suppose the 804 could be explain by poor zinc/bolt contact and the test being conducted in fresh water. If the engine is not grounded / bonded , how is it protected?

Thanks ,

Pat SM 123


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] No power to SSB

karkauai
 

I don't have the same converter, but I have had other converters fail due to a blown fuse.  I suspect yours has a fuse as well.  If the rocker switch wasn't accidentally turned off (the timing suggests that your failure may be due to something related to removing your satellite system), I'd look for a fuse next.

Kent Robertson
SM 243
Kristy

On Sep 21, 2016, at 11:31 PM, sailor63109@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

As a result of removing a hardwired satellite broadband phone/internet system from Wanderer, I now have no power to the SSB.  The Broadband system was wired to the breaker for the SSB in the hanging locker.  After I had the wiring for it removed I checked the SSB and no power.  So I put the wiring back that had fed the Broadband and still no joy.


I started checking tonight to see if I could trace it down and found that I have no power coming out of the Mastervolt 24/12V converter in the locker below the nav desk.  There is 24V power coming to the converter.  There is no on/off switch on the units (I found the user manual on line and it agrees).  


Anybody have an idea why the 24/12Volt converter isn't working?


Thanks,

Duane

Wanderer

SM#477


Re: AC earth on SM and SN

Herbert Lackner
 

Hi Enio,

understood.

On KALI MERA the connection from AC-ground to the bonding was original (at least it seems so and would make sense), do not know how it is on the other Santorins, but I think it will be the same. Maybe Olivier can jump in and tell us how it really is..  there was also a post from olivier where he explained it in detail.

regarding battery charging: we have 500AH lead acid batteries, we take out not more than 150AH before recharging. Maximal Ampere for charging ist 80A (battery charger can deviler 200A) and that only for a short period, then goes down to ~ 50A.  I have a quite sophisticated battery management with genset, solar panels, shaft alternator and engine and monitor in detail for each device what goes into the battery and what takes energy and try to treat my batteries as good as possible.  Maybe your batteries accept more current than mine.  On KALI MERA a 100A alternator would have marginal impact on charging times and efficiency compared to a 60A  alternator.

fair winds, herbert
KALI MERA, SN120, Trinidad


Re: AC earth on SM and SN

rossienio@...
 

Hi Herbert,my genset Fischer Panda does not function properly. I bought one Sterling ProALTc (alternator to battery charger) that improves the charge of the batteries (AGM) from the alternator. This loads 80A, I therefore decided to also put alternator 80 or 100A. Fair winds.
P.S. The wire that connects the AC ground to the bonding system (above the galley) is on all Santorin or you put it???


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] No power to SSB

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Duane,

I just saw your photo...Mastervolt, not Icom.

I assume the converter is bad.

Bill
BeBe 387

On Thu, Sep 22, 2016 at 4:24 AM, Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...> wrote:
Duane,

BeBe has a large Icom 24VDC to 12VDC converter installed below the Nav Table and connected to that breaker. There is a small rocker switch on the front of that converter. When you find it, it may be on and still no power. That rocker switch is problematic. I know of several failures.

Maybe this helps you...look again.

Bill
BeBe 387

On Thu, Sep 22, 2016 at 3:31 AM, sailor63109@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
 

As a result of removing a hardwired satellite broadband phone/internet system from Wanderer, I now have no power to the SSB.  The Broadband system was wired to the breaker for the SSB in the hanging locker.  After I had the wiring for it removed I checked the SSB and no power.  So I put the wiring back that had fed the Broadband and still no joy.


I started checking tonight to see if I could trace it down and found that I have no power coming out of the Mastervolt 24/12V converter in the locker below the nav desk.  There is 24V power coming to the converter.  There is no on/off switch on the units (I found the user manual on line and it agrees).  


Anybody have an idea why the 24/12Volt converter isn't working?


Thanks,

Duane

Wanderer

SM#477




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] No power to SSB

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Duane,

BeBe has a large Icom 24VDC to 12VDC converter installed below the Nav Table and connected to that breaker. There is a small rocker switch on the front of that converter. When you find it, it may be on and still no power. That rocker switch is problematic. I know of several failures.

Maybe this helps you...look again.

Bill
BeBe 387

On Thu, Sep 22, 2016 at 3:31 AM, sailor63109@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

As a result of removing a hardwired satellite broadband phone/internet system from Wanderer, I now have no power to the SSB.  The Broadband system was wired to the breaker for the SSB in the hanging locker.  After I had the wiring for it removed I checked the SSB and no power.  So I put the wiring back that had fed the Broadband and still no joy.


I started checking tonight to see if I could trace it down and found that I have no power coming out of the Mastervolt 24/12V converter in the locker below the nav desk.  There is 24V power coming to the converter.  There is no on/off switch on the units (I found the user manual on line and it agrees).  


Anybody have an idea why the 24/12Volt converter isn't working?


Thanks,

Duane

Wanderer

SM#477



New file uploaded to amelyachtowners

amelyachtowners@...
 

Hello,


This email message is a notification to let you know that
a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the amelyachtowners
group.


File : /SV Wanderer/IMG_1367.JPG
Uploaded by : sailor63109 <sailor63109@yahoo.com>
Description : For reference, these are the converters that have 24 volts "in" and no volts "out".


You can access this file at the URL:
https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/amelyachtowners/files/SV%20Wanderer/IMG_1367.JPG


To learn more about file sharing for your group, please visit:
https://help.yahoo.com/kb/index?page=content&y=PROD_GRPS&locale=en_US&id=SLN15398


Regards,


sailor63109 <sailor63109@yahoo.com>


No power to SSB

Duane Siegfri
 

As a result of removing a hardwired satellite broadband phone/internet system from Wanderer, I now have no power to the SSB.  The Broadband system was wired to the breaker for the SSB in the hanging locker.  After I had the wiring for it removed I checked the SSB and no power.  So I put the wiring back that had fed the Broadband and still no joy.


I started checking tonight to see if I could trace it down and found that I have no power coming out of the Mastervolt 24/12V converter in the locker below the nav desk.  There is 24V power coming to the converter.  There is no on/off switch on the units (I found the user manual on line and it agrees).  


Anybody have an idea why the 24/12Volt converter isn't working?


Thanks,

Duane

Wanderer

SM#477


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: AC earth on SM and SN

Ric Gottschalk <ric@...>
 

I can send photos showing how I had a Balmar added with a custom bracket. I kept the standard alternator for the engine & genset batteries. Also have serpentine belt & pulleys if you want to go that way. Must upgrade wire & switch. Dockyard electric can do it
BaliHai
SN 24 Annapolis 

Ric Gottschalk
Kitchen Magic Refacers, Inc
Office 410-923-5800
Fax 410-923-5802

On Sep 21, 2016, at 5:15 PM, herbert@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

enio,

just one more thought: if you change the alternator to a 100A model I think there is also the need to switch to a bigger belt dimension and to a new pulley, I assume the original belt will not live a long time with the stronger model.

and - as Bill said - Balmar alternators are available with isolated ground.

herbert
SN120 KALI MERA, Trinidad


Re: AC earth on SM and SN

Herbert Lackner
 

enio,

just one more thought: if you change the alternator to a 100A model I think there is also the need to switch to a bigger belt dimension and to a new pulley, I assume the original belt will not live a long time with the stronger model.

and - as Bill said - Balmar alternators are available with isolated ground.

herbert
SN120 KALI MERA, Trinidad


Re: AC earth on SM and SN

Herbert Lackner
 

Enio,

sorry, don't know which models have isolated ground, we are still happy with the original one.  just being curious - why do you have to change the alternator to a more powerful one? for battery loading it will have no major impact on the santorin.

if you change the alternator to a 100A model I think you should also change the cabling to the battery.

fair winds

herbert
SN120 KALI MERA, Trinidad


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] AC earth on SM and SN

Bill Kinney <greatketch@...>
 

Most alternators supplied by Balmar are made as isolated ground, and I am pretty sure all of their “6-series” models are.  That’s the size range you are looking for.  By the time you get to 100A alternators, you should find that most made for marine applications should be isolated ground.  


Bill Kinney
SM #160, Harmonie
Chesapeake Bay, Virginia, USA
“Ships and men rot in port."





On Sep 21, 2016, at 08:58, rossienio@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Thanks Herbert, I have to change the engine alternator current 60Ah to put one 100Ah. How should we go about finding an alternator that does not have negative grounded?

Enio Rossi
#SN122 EARENDIL
Italy



Re: AC earth on SM and SN

rossienio@...
 

Thanks Herbert, I have to change the engine alternator current 60Ah to put one 100Ah. How should we go about finding an alternator that does not have negative grounded?

Enio Rossi
#SN122 EARENDIL
Italy


Re: AC earth on SM and SN

Herbert Lackner
 

Hi enio

On KALI MERA AC ground is connected to the bonding system. Wiring is done at the 230V panel above the galley. 

To prevent Problems in the marina I installed a galvanic Isolator for the 230V ground where it "comes in board"

Herbert
SN120 KALI MERA, Trinidad 


Von meinem Samsung Gerät gesendet.


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Explosion & burnt smell on Eumenia dishwasher - FOUND SOMETHING

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Good afternoon,

Thanks Bill for researching the Capacitor.

I am so confused… here is the reply I received from Christian in Austria:

“This is a suppression capacitor, you can remove it! If you then have no interference in television and radio no need to replace it, otherwise if the original is not available you have to look for a replacement.”.

Well, I guess I will be trying the dishwasher next time I used the genset…

Sincerely, Alexandre




--------------------------------------------

On Tue, 9/20/16, Bill Kinney greatketch@yahoo.com [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Explosion & burnt smell on Eumenia dishwasher - FOUND SOMETHING
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tuesday, September 20, 2016, 8:16 AM


 









Alexandre,
What you have is called a “dual
run capacitor” and is typically used to support more than
one motor in a single package.  
The specification you see is 0.22
microFarad and 2 x 4700 picoFarad.
Kent is right, your best bet is
to show the photo, or the part itself, to the supplier.  I
did a quick search and couldn’t match it up by part number
with my normal go-to supplier for electrical
stuff.
Bill KinneySM #160, HarmonieLower Chesapeake Bay,
USA“Ships and men
rot in port."http://fetchinketch.net






On Sep 20, 2016, at 06:53,
Alexandre Uster von Baar uster@rocketmail.com
[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
wrote:
Good morning Bill, Kent and
JPH, 

Thanks for your reply.  

Being in 60 Hz country, I only
use the dish washer when I run the genset, so 50 Hertz
only.  

Ok age sounds like the problem
here, which is a good news.  

Question, and forget my
ignorance, what specs do I start looking for regarding the
capacitor?  
I understand 0.22
MicroFarad, but I don’t understand the + 2 x 4700Pf

http://nikimat.com/eumenia_dishwasher/eumenia_dishwasher_8.jpg

Thanks again and have a great
day, sincerely, Alexandre

--------------------------------------------
On Mon, 9/19/16,
'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@svbebe.com [amelyachtowners]
<amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
wrote:

Subject: Re: [Amel
Yacht Owners] Explosion & burnt smell on Eumenia
dishwasher - FOUND SOMETHING
To: "amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com"
<amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Monday,
September 19, 2016, 9:01 PM


 









Alex,
Capacitors do blow. I think all
will
eventually
either blow or get out of spec. A start capacitor
will blow if it is
left in the circuit too long. The cause
will vary. But, before you begin
to worry about the cause,
replace it and see if it blows
again. It could simply be an
age problem.
However, if you
run that dishwasher on 60htz, you
will blow a capacitor.
Have you been running it on shore
power at 60htz?

BillBeBe
387
On Mon, Sep 19, 2016 at
6:17 PM, Alexandre
Uster von Baar uster@rocketmail.com
[amelyachtowners]
<amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
wrote:















 









Thanks Kent.  



In your opinion, what could be
the cause of that Capacitor
blowing up?  

Age? Or something else?  



Sincerely, Alexandre



------------------------------
--------------

On Mon, 9/19/16, Kent
Robertson karkauai@yahoo.com
[amelyachtowners]
<amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.
com> wrote:



Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners]
Explosion & burnt smell
on Eumenia dishwasher - FOUND
SOMETHING

To:
amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.
com

Date: Monday, September 19, 2016,
1:15 PM





 



















That's a capacitor, Alex. 
Use the

numbers to order one
online if you can't find one in
San

Juan.Kent



Kent Robertsonkarkauai@yahoo.
com828-234-6819

voice/text

On Sep 19,

2016, at 12:19 PM, Alexandre
Uster von Baar uster@rocketmail.com

[amelyachtowners]
<amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.
com>

wrote:

































 













Good afternoon, 







First of all thanks to Bill (SM2K
#387 BeBe) for the

illustration on removing the
stove and also big thanks
to

Mark (SM #275 Creampuff) and his
details explanation for
the

sequence on removing the cabinet
facade in order to
access

the dishwasher cover. I will post
an illustration later
on.









So, I open the dish washer and
found “something”
(fuse

or capacitor?) burnt…  







As you know, electricity is my
weakness point… 



could someone please let me know
what is that burnt part?






And where to find one?  







http://nikimat.com/eumenia_
dishwasher/eumenia_dishwasher_
8.jpg



http://nikimat.com/eumenia_
dishwasher/eumenia_dishwasher_
7.jpg







Here are 10 pictures.  



http://nikimat.com/eumenia_
dishwasher.html







Also, “why” would it
blow?  



Normal wear?  



Something to create the
explosion? (if so then I need
the

cause).  







Anything else I should be looking
at while I am there?  







As always thanks in advance!  







Sincerely, Alexandre



SM2K #289 NIKIMAT



Club Nautico de San Juan, Puerto
Rico

















































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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Explosion & burnt smell on Eumenia dishwasher - FOUND SOMETHING

Bill Kinney <greatketch@...>
 

Alexandre,

What you have is called a “dual run capacitor” and is typically used to support more than one motor in a single package.

The specification you see is 0.22 microFarad and 2 x 4700 picoFarad.

Kent is right, your best bet is to show the photo, or the part itself, to the supplier. I did a quick search and couldn’t match it up by part number with my normal go-to supplier for electrical stuff.

Bill Kinney
SM #160, Harmonie
Lower Chesapeake Bay, USA
“Ships and men rot in port."
http://fetchinketch.net <http://fetchinketch.net/>

On Sep 20, 2016, at 06:53, Alexandre Uster von Baar uster@rocketmail.com [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Good morning Bill, Kent and JPH,

Thanks for your reply.

Being in 60 Hz country, I only use the dish washer when I run the genset, so 50 Hertz only.

Ok age sounds like the problem here, which is a good news.

Question, and forget my ignorance, what specs do I start looking for regarding the capacitor?
I understand 0.22 MicroFarad, but I don’t understand the + 2 x 4700Pf

http://nikimat.com/eumenia_dishwasher/eumenia_dishwasher_8.jpg

Thanks again and have a great day, sincerely, Alexandre

--------------------------------------------
On Mon, 9/19/16, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@svbebe.com <mailto:yahoogroups@svbebe.com> [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com <mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>> wrote:

Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Explosion & burnt smell on Eumenia dishwasher - FOUND SOMETHING
To: "amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com <mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com <mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>>
Date: Monday, September 19, 2016, 9:01 PM












Alex,
Capacitors do blow. I think all will
eventually either blow or get out of spec. A start capacitor
will blow if it is left in the circuit too long. The cause
will vary. But, before you begin to worry about the cause,
replace it and see if it blows again. It could simply be an
age problem.
However, if you
run that dishwasher on 60htz, you will blow a capacitor.
Have you been running it on shore power at 60htz?

BillBeBe
387
On Mon, Sep 19, 2016 at
6:17 PM, Alexandre Uster von Baar uster@rocketmail.com <mailto:uster@rocketmail.com>
[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com <mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>>
wrote:

























Thanks Kent.



In your opinion, what could be the cause of that Capacitor
blowing up?

Age? Or something else?



Sincerely, Alexandre



------------------------------ --------------

On Mon, 9/19/16, Kent Robertson karkauai@yahoo.com <mailto:karkauai@yahoo.com>
[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.
com> wrote:



Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Explosion & burnt smell
on Eumenia dishwasher - FOUND SOMETHING

To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.
com

Date: Monday, September 19, 2016, 1:15 PM

























That's a capacitor, Alex. Use the

numbers to order one online if you can't find one in
San

Juan.Kent



Kent Robertsonkarkauai@yahoo. com828-234-6819

voice/text

On Sep 19,

2016, at 12:19 PM, Alexandre Uster von Baar uster@rocketmail.com <mailto:uster@rocketmail.com>

[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.
com>

wrote:















































Good afternoon,







First of all thanks to Bill (SM2K #387 BeBe) for the

illustration on removing the stove and also big thanks
to

Mark (SM #275 Creampuff) and his details explanation for
the

sequence on removing the cabinet facade in order to
access

the dishwasher cover. I will post an illustration later
on.









So, I open the dish washer and found “something”
(fuse

or capacitor?) burnt…







As you know, electricity is my weakness point…



could someone please let me know what is that burnt part?






And where to find one?







http://nikimat.com/eumenia_
dishwasher/eumenia_dishwasher_ 8.jpg



http://nikimat.com/eumenia_
dishwasher/eumenia_dishwasher_ 7.jpg







Here are 10 pictures.



http://nikimat.com/eumenia_
dishwasher.html







Also, “why” would it blow?



Normal wear?



Something to create the explosion? (if so then I need
the

cause).







Anything else I should be looking at while I am there?







As always thanks in advance!







Sincerely, Alexandre



SM2K #289 NIKIMAT



Club Nautico de San Juan, Puerto Rico

















































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