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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Windlass bolt to deck
eric freedman
Bill, Glad it worked, You might also invest in the purple cobalt drills from McMaster Carr they are made especially for drilling stainless. They are not inexpensive but I keep them on board when all else fails. I also use the dam technique when drilling stainless and fill it with drilling oil for stainless also from McMaster. Fair Winds Eric Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Wednesday, October 19, 2016 3:51 PM To: amelyachtowners@... Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Windlass bolt to deck
Eric,
Another success for your dam technique! Thanks for the suggestion.
I had a 5mm machine screw that I had almost given up on getting out in one piece. Not only was it a stainless screw corroded into aluminum, but it had also been sheared, and was bent, jamming the threads for that extra measure of difficulty. And it’s not big enough to really lean on without breaking. Oil, heat, pressure, over and over, and not so much as a wiggle.
I didn’t have any “duct seal” so I improvised by making a stiff dough of flour and water for the dam. It wasn’t perfect, but it worked. After twenty-four hours of soaking in a puddle of PB Blaster, the screw backed out easily. I can see using this often in my future.
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companionway door slot & hurricane Matthew
sailor63109@...
After hurricane Mathew we noticed that the companionway door slot had a substantial amount of water in it. I poked around with a wire and was unable to find a drain hole. Can someone tell me where the drain is? (Port, STBD, or in the middle?)
This might answer why I have wet sound insulation on the engine room FWD bulkhead, seemingly all the time. I thought I had found the reason when we noticed the dishwasher (which we never use) had sinkwater backed up into it. We eliminated the dishwasher. If there is another reason for the wet sound insulation, please educate me! Thanks, Duane Wanderer, SM#477
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Windlass bolt to deck
Bill Kinney <greatketch@...>
Eric,
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Another success for your dam technique! Thanks for the suggestion. I had a 5mm machine screw that I had almost given up on getting out in one piece. Not only was it a stainless screw corroded into aluminum, but it had also been sheared, and was bent, jamming the threads for that extra measure of difficulty. And it’s not big enough to really lean on without breaking. Oil, heat, pressure, over and over, and not so much as a wiggle. I didn’t have any “duct seal” so I improvised by making a stiff dough of flour and water for the dam. It wasn’t perfect, but it worked. After twenty-four hours of soaking in a puddle of PB Blaster, the screw backed out easily. I can see using this often in my future.
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: flexible rubber coupling
Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
Hi Bob, I have not heard that. I have never had a failure in nearly 8 years. I tighten them to the normal tension for a bolt that size. I am sure, given the loads on this coupling, too loose would allow movement which would lead to wear and failure. Do check the rubber bushes periodically, they do wear out over time. Danny SM 299 Ocean Pearl
From: "rossidesigngroup@... [amelyachtowners]" To: amelyachtowners@... Sent: Wednesday, 19 October 2016 10:17 PM Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: flexible rubber coupling I have heard that the 4 bolts that essentially clamp the Vetus flexible coupling together--between the flange coming out of the transmission and the flange on the shaft of the C drive--should not be tightened too much. It has even been posted that tightening them too much will cause failure of the bolts. Is there a rule of thumb for how tight they should be? Should the entire bolt and nut rotate by hand? Should there be slack? Should they be tightened firmly. I can't seem to find that on the site or in the Vetus literature. Bob KAIMI SM 429
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SM2k A/C drain clogged
yahoogroups@...
This is a "heads-up" to SM2k owners. BeBe #387 had the condensation drain clog up for the Salon AC. I did not notice it until about 10 gallons of water was found in the area under the aft settee fridge/freezer, the aft floor compartment under the dining table, the floor compartment in the galley and under the galley sink. Did I say that it is hot and humid in Trinidad? After using a wet vacuum to remove all of the water, I removed and checked the drain hose from the Climma Compact 9. It was obviously blocked. I connected another piece of hose to the drain hose, then connected that hose to my dinghy pump and blew out the clog. I believe that the AC drain hose runs to a connection below the clothes washer, but not sure, as I did not remove the clothes washer. I then ran vinegar, then water through the drain hose and checked to see if water was visible draining into the gray water sump...it was. I should have been warned because I have a water alarm beneath the galley sink. It is powered by a 9VDC battery that will beep when the battery is low. I assume that low battery beeping happened while we were off the boat for 6 weeks. Oh, well, thoroughly cleaning those compartments were on my list of things to do. Now, our cockpit is full of things, drying out, that were originally stored in those compartments. Most of the wet stuff is dive equipment including BCD, wetsuit, etc. I am happy that this was freshwater and not saltwater. Best, Bill BeBe 387
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Re: flexible rubber coupling
rossirossix4
I have heard that the 4 bolts that essentially clamp the Vetus flexible coupling together--between the flange coming out of the transmission and the flange on the shaft of the C drive--should not be tightened too much. It has even been posted that tightening them too much will cause failure of the bolts. Is there a rule of thumb for how tight they should be? Should the entire bolt and nut rotate by hand? Should there be slack? Should they be tightened firmly. I can't seem to find that on the site or in the Vetus literature.
Bob KAIMI SM 429
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Windlass power disconnect?
Stephen Davis
Thanks for sharing what looks to be a great improvement to the system on our older Amels. I'll add this one to my project list. Steve Davis Aloha SM72 Cariacou, Grenada
On Oct 18, 2016, at 13:24, Bill Kinney greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bilge / Sump pump
Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
Hi Pat, I have wondered about that as a solution too. They are much lower cost. I wonder if they could handle the bits and pieces. If there was an electric version of the manual pump that would be my choice for obvious reasons, ie it is so trouble free. Danny SM 299 Ocean Pearl
From: "Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners]" To: amelyachtowners@... Sent: Wednesday, 19 October 2016 12:59 AM Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bilge / Sump pump Danny , Yes my manual pump works great. My foot valve does not leak, at least while I am watching ,over a long time it may.I do not have the original pump , I have a Jabsco , which looks inferior to the original pump. I was wondering if anyone had installed a base and a submersible mounted perhaps a foot above the bottom , occassionally using the manual one to pump out the muck.
Thanks,
Pat
-----Original Message-----
From: Danny and Yvonne SIMMS simms@... [amelyachtowners] To: amelyachtowners Sent: Mon, Oct 17, 2016 2:05 pm Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bilge / Sump pump Hi Pat.
Try taking the suction pipe off the pump. Is it full? If not, fill it and see if it stays full. Of course if its not full the foot valve is leaking. The fill and watch will just confirm this.
I have the original pump. If the foot valve is working ie no leak allowing the water in the suction to go down at all, the pump is always full. I struggled trying to fix things at the pump. Now at last I have a foot valve that works and the pump does too. One thing I did was shorten the suction to get it higher above the sediment that gets into the sump and my problems have been much le
ss since. Foot valves don't like bits of stuff stuck it them when they try to close.
However I wish it would self prime like the manual one does. It doesn't even have a foot valve and yet primes perfectly every time and it cheerfully pumps all the muck from the bottom.
Cheers
Danny
From: "Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> To: amelyachtowners@... Sent: Tuesday, 18 October 2016 12:34 AM Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bilge / Sump pump Danny, As far as can determine the foot valve is not leaking, however over a long time it may . I have tried to seal and clamp the hoses as tight as possible. It has always been unreliable .
Thanks,
Pat
-----Original Message-----
From: simms simms@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> To: Amel Owners <amelyachtowners@...> Sent: Sun, Oct 16, 2016 2:14 pm Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bilge / Sump pump Hi pat. I battled the bilge pump forever. The key is the foot valve. If you can stop that leaking so the pipe stays full you should have no more trouble. Also ensure there are no leeks in the suction pipe.
Cheers Danny SM 299 ocean pearl Sent from my Vodafone Smart
On Oct 17, 2016 2:44 AM, "sailw32@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Windlass power disconnect?
Bill Kinney <greatketch@...>
Hello all,
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
This is a follow up to an older thread about the peculiarities of the windlass power switch on older Super Maramus—or at least on our boat. Here is a link to the final resolution I implemented on Harmonie. I mentioned on that page, but I’ll do it here again, this is NOT applicable to newer boats where Joel assures me the switches work as I wished they had on ours.
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bilge / Sump pump
Patrick McAneny
Bill, Thanks for your input, and see your point about fouling a submersible . I was thinking that as well and was only wondered out loud if anyone had tried it with success. We stopped by your boat during the show, your boat was open , but you weren't there. We were looking for Joel and the 54 he was showing, sorry we missed you.
Thanks,
Pat SM #123
-----Original Message----- From: Bill Kinney greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] To: amelyachtowners Sent: Tue, Oct 18, 2016 11:22 am Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bilge / Sump pump Pat,
Using a submersible for routine service in the Amel bilge would NOT be a good idea. What we call our “bilge" really is not a bilge in the traditional sense of the word. It is actually a grey water sump. Submersible centrifugal pumps would foul and fail in very short order. Submersible pumps can also cause all kinds of stray current problems that you really don’t want to deal with the consequences of. This would be one of those changes from the original Amel design you should just say “No” to.
It is very hard to find a 24 volt pump that is as suited to this service as the original that Amel selected. If you can find one it would be best. Really.
But if you can’t, there are good options...
There are only a few kinds of pumps available that will work as a grey water discharge pump on an Amel. Diaphragm pumps (like the original); some kinds of piston pumps; and possibly some flexible impeller pumps.
I worry that a flexible impeller pump would have trouble with the self-priming at the depth of the well, so I hesitate to recommend them.
Diaphragm pumps are good at pumping “dirty water”, but you need one that is very well designed to work for very long. Most mass-market marine pumps of this sort are designed for very infrequent service as shower sump pumps, and they are even short lived at that. Amel's pump is first-rate and has a long lasting diaphragm and check valves. There are others, like the line of pumps made by Bosworth that that seem very well made, but I have no experience with, and can’t comment on longevity.
One pump that would work well in this service is the T-series discharge pump by Sealand. They are robust, long lived, easy to care for, excellent at self-priming, no foot valve would be needed. This is a piston type pump, without the rubber diaphragm. Maintenance consists of changing check valves about every 6 months. These are made as raw sewage pumps. If a “chunk” can fit up the hose, they will pump it through. They can handle the “gunk”. BUT… the downside is they have lower capacity than the Amel original, and so will run longer on each discharge cycle.
Sealand also makes an “M” series pump of the same design, except with a bronze body that is much larger and has at least the capacity of the Amel original. Check hose sizes and space for this one to see if it is practical replacement.
I don’t have any interest in Sealand pumps, other than using one daily as a pump for un-macerated raw sewage for ten years with only routine maintenance. It just worked.
I have the good fortune that my boat came with a complete working spare of the original pump. Hopefully I can keep the original running for a long time yet.
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bilge / Sump pump
Germain Jean-Pierre <jgermain@...>
Hello Pat,
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Our “bilge” pump was replaced 2 years ago by a Vetus 14024B. Works very well for the last 18 months. We also bought many “duck bill” valves to keep the water head sealed. GL with your solution. Jean-Pierre Germain, SY Eleuthera, SM 007
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bilge / Sump pump
Bill Kinney <greatketch@...>
Pat,
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Using a submersible for routine service in the Amel bilge would NOT be a good idea. What we call our “bilge" really is not a bilge in the traditional sense of the word. It is actually a grey water sump. Submersible centrifugal pumps would foul and fail in very short order. Submersible pumps can also cause all kinds of stray current problems that you really don’t want to deal with the consequences of. This would be one of those changes from the original Amel design you should just say “No” to. It is very hard to find a 24 volt pump that is as suited to this service as the original that Amel selected. If you can find one it would be best. Really. But if you can’t, there are good options... There are only a few kinds of pumps available that will work as a grey water discharge pump on an Amel. Diaphragm pumps (like the original); some kinds of piston pumps; and possibly some flexible impeller pumps. I worry that a flexible impeller pump would have trouble with the self-priming at the depth of the well, so I hesitate to recommend them. Diaphragm pumps are good at pumping “dirty water”, but you need one that is very well designed to work for very long. Most mass-market marine pumps of this sort are designed for very infrequent service as shower sump pumps, and they are even short lived at that. Amel's pump is first-rate and has a long lasting diaphragm and check valves. There are others, like the line of pumps made by Bosworth that that seem very well made, but I have no experience with, and can’t comment on longevity. One pump that would work well in this service is the T-series discharge pump by Sealand. They are robust, long lived, easy to care for, excellent at self-priming, no foot valve would be needed. This is a piston type pump, without the rubber diaphragm. Maintenance consists of changing check valves about every 6 months. These are made as raw sewage pumps. If a “chunk” can fit up the hose, they will pump it through. They can handle the “gunk”. BUT… the downside is they have lower capacity than the Amel original, and so will run longer on each discharge cycle. Sealand also makes an “M” series pump of the same design, except with a bronze body that is much larger and has at least the capacity of the Amel original. Check hose sizes and space for this one to see if it is practical replacement. I don’t have any interest in Sealand pumps, other than using one daily as a pump for un-macerated raw sewage for ten years with only routine maintenance. It just worked. I have the good fortune that my boat came with a complete working spare of the original pump. Hopefully I can keep the original running for a long time yet.
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] 30 Amp 125 volt shore power to 50 Amp 125/250 Volt plug?
Alexandre Uster von Baar
Good morning Bill,
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
First thanks for looking out for me !!! I am probably not explaining myself correctly… I have 2 shore powers. If the marina has 250 Volt then I use my regular shore power. If the marina only has only 110 volt, then I plan on using the Amel originally installed transformer. What Marinco (who makes shore power cable, plug, etc.) saying is that if the marina has split phase, I could use a Y with 2 x 30 amp 125 Volt going to 1 50 Amp 125/250 Volt to provide me with my 220 volt (again not going through the transformer). I would not make the Y myself, I would purchase one already made. I know about the frequency, as I mentioned I only use my washing machine, scuba compressor, etc. with the genset. You raised a good point: may be they don’t have that female 125/250 50 Amp, so I am going to look for one locally. Sincerely, Alexandre --------------------------------------------
On Tue, 10/18/16, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] 30 Amp 125 volt shore power to 50 Amp 125/250 Volt plug? To: "amelyachtowners@..." <amelyachtowners@...> Date: Tuesday, October 18, 2016, 6:34 AM Alex, I am not an electrician, and do not want to be your electrician via email. The reason is that you may rely on something that I say and I might be wrong. But, I will make these comments as long as you recognize the above statement. Unfortunately, it is difficult to make the following short, because I feel I should make these comments as clear as possible. I believe that what the transformer company is saying when they say "IF” the marina has a Split Phase," is that If the marina 110-125VAC 60htz shore power connections that derive their power from "1 leg or phase" of a 220-250VAC 60htz connection, it will work. However, this does not tell you how to make the connection. And, what I do not know is what it will take to make it work without making assumptions. And, I do not know if the transformer is is designed to take different inputs and still output 220-250VAC60htz. So, from this point forward, I am assuming (guessing) that your tranformer requires 220-250VAC input. I might be wrong on that assumption and if I am, almost everything that follows is WRONG. Europe and the US have Single Phase 220-250VAC power. Europe delivers this power to the user in three wires including earth. The wires are 220-250VAC (hot) (brown), Return or Neutral (neutral) (blue) and earth. The US "SPLITS THE 220-250VAC into 2 legs or 2 Phase and deliver the power with 4 wires including earth. The wires are 110-125VAC (hot) (red), 110-125VAC (hot) (black), Return or Neutral (neutral) (white) and earth. Many 220-250VAC devices will work with 50 or 60htz and take the voltage split or not split.BUT NOT ALL DEVICES. I suspect (guess) that the transformer is NOT a multiple voltage input transformer and what they intend to say is that you can wire 2 different "legs" (phase) of the 110-125VAC 60htz to the transformer, wiring one leg (red) to your Brown wire input and one leg (black) to the Blue wire input, and finally Earth (NOT WHITE) to your green/yellow input. In this case, you will not use the white from shore. That said, if you are discussing Tortola, BVI, I am 99.9999% sure that they have 220-250VAC on the docks, but maybe (assume) that they may not have a US Type 50 amp 220-250VAC plug. AND maybe (guess) they have only wired the pedestals with US type 110-125VAC 60htz 30 amp connectors. If that is the case, when they say they do not have the larger 50 amp connectors, the split connection device will work, maybe (guess), but each of the 30 amp plugs needs to receive power from separate legs (phase) of the 220-250VAC power. I posted a link earlier of a device that has 2 each 30 amp male connectors and 1 50 amp female. I have one on the boat. It is possible that you could make one, but you will have to follow instructions precisely. Without giving you the instructions now, let me describe what the marina probably (guess) has: Inside their pedestal box they I think (assume) that they have a large input cable with 4 wires inside the cable. They should be color-coded this way:Red - 110-125VAC 60htz (hot)Black - 110-125VAC 60htz (hot)White - NeutralGreen - GroundI believe (guess) that you need to accomplish the following:Red - 110-125VAC 60htz (hot)>>>>>>>>Brown input on transformerBlack - 110-125VAC 60htz (hot)>>>>>>>Blue on input transformerWhite - Neutral>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>Not usedGreen - Ground>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>Green/Yellow input on transformerIt will not work if you use either 2 Reds or 2 Blacks which would be using 2 of the same leg (phase) of the 220-250VAC 60htz. You MUST use 2 different legs...this is what they sometimes refer to a "phase." The best way to accomplish this is for the marina to wire a female US Type 50 Amp 220-250VAC 60htz receptacle for you to plug into. If they do, I would test to make sure that the resulting wiring is according to the Shore Power graphic in the following album.https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/amelyachtowners/search/photos?query=shore%20power#zax/albums_1949812811 I will repeat that I am not an electrician, and even if I was, there is no way I can help you without making assumptions like I did above and those assumptions could be wrong. BillBeBe 387 On Mon, Oct 17, 2016 at 7:45 PM, Alexandre Uster von Baar uster@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote: Hello Bill (Rouse), My Transformer is Original (option) from Amel, just never been used. I can only hope the wiring was done accordingly to: blue wire goes to the neutral connection, brown wire goes to the hot and green/yellow goes to ground. I am honestly not sure an “electrician” could be useful, in the only 4 years that I own my boat, I have noted that 2/3 of the people I hired did not do a proper job, nor knew anything… and I keep seeing that for other boat owners… Marinco has confirm as well the link I mentioned will not work. When I mentioned the 2 x 30 Amp 125 Volt going to a 50 Amp 125/250 Volt, they say it would work “IF” the marina has a Split Phase, but I doubt the marina knew about that… Unfortunately that small marina in Tortola (Harbourview), so far only has 30 amp… this will be a first for me as well. I have been asking them for 1 week, the answer is: we are working on it… kind of reminds me of the Bahamas… Bill (Kinney), I know about my second shore power going to the Transformer, but since it has never been used since installed 16 years ago, I don’t know if it is working… and in my case, when I arrive somewhere i do have to work right away for my clients (need electricity, etc.). so no time for down time which Island people don’t understand… So now, I am just looking for back up alternatives… Craig, I have ask the marina is it was 50 Amp 125 Volt or 50 Amp 125/250 Volt, they were not able to answer… Sincerely, Alexandre ------------------------------ -------------- On Mon, 10/17/16, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups. com> wrote: Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] 30 Amp 125 volt shore power to 50 Amp 125/250 Volt plug? To: "amelyachtowners@yahoogroups. com" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups. com> Date: Monday, October 17, 2016, 10:28 AM Alex, No, that will not help. Without knowing what transformer you have and how it was wired...and if that wiring has changed, none of us can give you much input. I suggest that before you arrive at a marina that only has 110VAC available, that you consult with an electrician and have him inspect what you have. BTW, I was never in a marina that had only 110VAC 60htz available...they all had 110VAC and 220VAC 60 htz. You have my wiring graphic for wiring to 220VAC 60htz without an onboard transformer. If not it is in this album: https://groups.yahoo. com/neo/groups/ amelyachtowners/search/photos? query=shore%20power#zax/ albums_1949812811 BillBeBe 387 On Mon, Oct 17, 2016 at 10:10 AM, Alexandre Uster von Baar uster@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups. com> wrote: Good morning, The next marina I am going to is likely to only have 30 Amp 125 Volt. Since I have never used my big transformer on the boat, I am not sure it works, so trying to cover options. I need 220 volt. I am very ignorant when it comes to electricity… Would the following product be ok? http://www.go2marine.com/ product/389365F/pigtail-shore- power-adapter-30a-125v-male- to-50a-125-250v-female.html Or is there a problem with the phases or something else… I am not concerned with the Amp, but the voltage… Thanks in advance! Sincerely, Alexandre SM2K #289 NIKIMAT Club Nautico de San Juan, Puerto Rico
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bilge / Sump pump
Patrick McAneny
Danny , Yes my manual pump works great. My foot valve does not leak, at least while I am watching ,over a long time it may.I do not have the original pump , I have a Jabsco , which looks inferior to the original pump. I was wondering if anyone had installed a base and a submersible mounted perhaps a foot above the bottom , occassionally using the manual one to pump out the muck.
Thanks,
Pat
-----Original Message----- From: Danny and Yvonne SIMMS simms@... [amelyachtowners] To: amelyachtowners Sent: Mon, Oct 17, 2016 2:05 pm Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bilge / Sump pump Hi Pat.
Try taking the suction pipe off the pump. Is it full? If not, fill it and see if it stays full. Of course if its not full the foot valve is leaking. The fill and watch will just confirm this.
I have the original pump. If the foot valve is working ie no leak allowing the water in the suction to go down at all, the pump is always full. I struggled trying to fix things at the pump. Now at last I have a foot valve that works and the pump does too. One thing I did was shorten the suction to get it higher above the sediment that gets into the sump and my problems have been much le
ss since. Foot valves don't like bits of stuff stuck it them when they try to close.
However I wish it would self prime like the manual one does. It doesn't even have a foot valve and yet primes perfectly every time and it cheerfully pumps all the muck from the bottom.
Cheers
Danny
From: "Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> To: amelyachtowners@... Sent: Tuesday, 18 October 2016 12:34 AM Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bilge / Sump pump Danny, As far as can determine the foot valve is not leaking, however over a long time it may . I have tried to seal and clamp the hoses as tight as possible. It has always been unreliable .
Thanks,
Pat
-----Original Message-----
From: simms simms@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> To: Amel Owners <amelyachtowners@...> Sent: Sun, Oct 16, 2016 2:14 pm Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bilge / Sump pump Hi pat. I battled the bilge pump forever. The key is the foot valve. If you can stop that leaking so the pipe stays full you should have no more trouble. Also ensure there are no leeks in the suction pipe.
Cheers Danny SM 299 ocean pearl Sent from my Vodafone Smart
On Oct 17, 2016 2:44 AM, "sailw32@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] 30 Amp 125 volt shore power to 50 Amp 125/250 Volt plug?
Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
Alex, I am not an electrician, and do not want to be your electrician via email. The reason is that you may rely on something that I say and I might be wrong. But, I will make these comments as long as you recognize the above statement. Unfortunately, it is difficult to make the following short, because I feel I should make these comments as clear as possible. I believe that what the transformer company is saying when they say "IF” the marina has a Split Phase," is that If the marina 110-125VAC 60htz shore power connections that derive their power from "1 leg or phase" of a 220-250VAC 60htz connection, it will work. However, this does not tell you how to make the connection. And, what I do not know is what it will take to make it work without making assumptions. And, I do not know if the transformer is is designed to take different inputs and still output 220-250VAC60htz. So, from this point forward, I am assuming (guessing) that your tranformer requires 220-250VAC input. I might be wrong on that assumption and if I am, almost everything that follows is WRONG. Europe and the US have Single Phase 220-250VAC power. Europe delivers this power to the user in three wires including earth. The wires are 220-250VAC (hot) (brown), Return or Neutral (neutral) (blue) and earth. The US "SPLITS THE 220-250VAC into 2 legs or 2 Phase and deliver the power with 4 wires including earth. The wires are 110-125VAC (hot) (red), 110-125VAC (hot) (black), Return or Neutral (neutral) (white) and earth. Many 220-250VAC devices will work with 50 or 60htz and take the voltage split or not split.BUT NOT ALL DEVICES. I suspect (guess) that the transformer is NOT a multiple voltage input transformer and what they intend to say is that you can wire 2 different "legs" (phase) of the 110-125VAC 60htz to the transformer, wiring one leg (red) to your Brown wire input and one leg (black) to the Blue wire input, and finally Earth (NOT WHITE) to your green/yellow input. In this case, you will not use the white from shore. That said, if you are discussing Tortola, BVI, I am 99.9999% sure that they have 220-250VAC on the docks, but maybe (assume) that they may not have a US Type 50 amp 220-250VAC plug. AND maybe (guess) they have only wired the pedestals with US type 110-125VAC 60htz 30 amp connectors. If that is the case, when they say they do not have the larger 50 amp connectors, the split connection device will work, maybe (guess), but each of the 30 amp plugs needs to receive power from separate legs (phase) of the 220-250VAC power. I posted a link earlier of a device that has 2 each 30 amp male connectors and 1 50 amp female. I have one on the boat. It is possible that you could make one, but you will have to follow instructions precisely. Without giving you the instructions now, let me describe what the marina probably (guess) has: Inside their pedestal box they I think (assume) that they have a large input cable with 4 wires inside the cable. They should be color-coded this way:
It will not work if you use either 2 Reds or 2 Blacks which would be using 2 of the same leg (phase) of the 220-250VAC 60htz. You MUST use 2 different legs...this is what they sometimes refer to a "phase." The best way to accomplish this is for the marina to wire a female US Type 50 Amp 220-250VAC 60htz receptacle for you to plug into. If they do, I would test to make sure that the resulting wiring is according to the Shore Power graphic in the following album.https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/amelyachtowners/search/photos?query=shore%20power#zax/albums_1949812811 I will repeat that I am not an electrician, and even if I was, there is no way I can help you without making assumptions like I did above and those assumptions could be wrong. Bill BeBe 387
On Mon, Oct 17, 2016 at 7:45 PM, Alexandre Uster von Baar uster@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Windlass bolt to deck
INUS - BUSCH
Concerning removing studs I just read an instructive article in the latest PBO November 2016 pages 84-85. If someone is interested and not having access pls send me an email inusbusch (at) yahoo (dot) de, I will try to send pictures. Dieter Sharki #235 Von meinem iPhone gesendet Am 18.10.2016 um 12:42 schrieb Alexandre Uster von Baar uster@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>:
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Dinghy Inflator - Amel 54
James Wendell
Does anyone out there know about the electric dinghy inflator for the Amel 54? I have a circuit breaker labeled as such above the battery area and I think a plug in the lazarette. I do not have the inflator and do not know what it is or how it would work. Also, I had to rebuild my Opacmare passarelle. It no longer works correctly and I cannot figure it out. It allows me to extend and/or raise the gangway when it is stowed in its pocket. I would not expect that, as it could jam. Also, it does not raise or lower fully. I suspect I have problems with the limit sensors, but I do not know enough about how it is supposed to function. The manual is written in English, but the translation is really confusing. Any advice would be much appreciated. I know these are somewhat unusual questions. Thanks, Jamie s/v Phantom Amel 54 #044
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Windlass bolt to deck
Alexandre Uster von Baar
I like the idea!
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Adding duck seal on my list of things to find! Alexandre --------------------------------------------
On Mon, 10/17/16, 'sailormon' kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Windlass bolt to deck To: amelyachtowners@... Date: Monday, October 17, 2016, 9:26 PM I have had great success over the years removing stuck and broken bolts in this manner:I use a clay like substance called here in the USA Duct Seal.I build up a small dam around the offending bolts and fill the dam with PB blaster for a week. The bolts almost always are loose by that time if not I continue the process eventually they come out.It is also important to try to turn the bolt in both directions to spread the PB blaster.When I re install them I use a paste called never seize high temperature. It is especially good on the outhaul shaft.Works like a charm.Fair WindsEricKimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376 From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...] Sent: Monday, October 17, 2016 8:48 AM To: amelyachtowners@... Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Windlass bolt to deck Mike,Danny's thru-bolt solution sounds good and the drilling, as he points out, will be the key to success. With the good amount of bolt you've got left above deck you may want to try removing it before you go to drilling it out, even though it may shear off. After a good soaking with penetrants (use some acid too, to attack the salts) you may be able to lock two nuts on top to screw it out. If or when that fails you could weld a short bolt of the same diameter to the broken end and use the new bolts hex head to turn. The welding heat may also help break the threads free. If still no joy,you're likely into drilling it out,. Here's a great link to using tread inserts after drilling out the bolt. https://racemagazine.com.au/cars/thread-repair-how-to-fix-broken-bolts-and-stripped-threadsGood luck with it,Craig Briggs, SN68 Sangaris. ---In amelyachtowners@..., <simms@...> wrote :Hi mike. I drilled mine out and put a bolt through. I now have a nut top and bottom I lost a lot of sweat and blunted several drills in the process. If you can get a cobalt drill they cut stainless much better than the standard. I didn't have one, as always I was fixing a boat in an exotic location. Cheers Danny SM 299 ocean pearl Sent from my Vodafone SmartOn Oct 17, 2016 4:33 AM, "'Mike Ondra' mdondra@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote: [Attachment(s) from Mike Ondra included below]As others may have experienced with removing the windlass from the deck, 3 of the 4 bolts were easily removed. The aft starboard bolt is threaded into the deck (no visible nut and probably into a glassed in steel plate). In fact in the bow locker there is rust stain coming through the fiberglass deck and also all along the hawse pipe. In attempting removal the bolt head sheared off leaving a stud about 1” above the deck as pictured above (assuming picture goes with email. I am afraid that continuing to attempt to remove the remaining bole will simply result in shearing off at the deck line. My question is what have others done in this situation? I can envision finding a coupling that could be used but would require an enlargement of the bolt hole in the windlass base thereby weakening it. The stud could be cut off and the windlass moved slightly with new holes for all bolts. Thoughts? Mike OndraAletes SM#240Rock Hall, MD #yiv0053232137 #yiv0053232137 -- #yiv0053232137ygrp-mkp { border:1px solid #d8d8d8;font-family:Arial;margin:10px 0;padding:0 10px;} #yiv0053232137 #yiv0053232137ygrp-mkp hr { border:1px solid #d8d8d8;} #yiv0053232137 #yiv0053232137ygrp-mkp #yiv0053232137hd { color:#628c2a;font-size:85%;font-weight:700;line-height:122%;margin:10px 0;} #yiv0053232137 #yiv0053232137ygrp-mkp #yiv0053232137ads { margin-bottom:10px;} #yiv0053232137 #yiv0053232137ygrp-mkp .yiv0053232137ad { padding:0 0;} #yiv0053232137 #yiv0053232137ygrp-mkp .yiv0053232137ad p { margin:0;} #yiv0053232137 #yiv0053232137ygrp-mkp .yiv0053232137ad a { color:#0000ff;text-decoration:none;} #yiv0053232137 #yiv0053232137ygrp-sponsor #yiv0053232137ygrp-lc { font-family:Arial;} #yiv0053232137 #yiv0053232137ygrp-sponsor #yiv0053232137ygrp-lc #yiv0053232137hd { margin:10px 0px;font-weight:700;font-size:78%;line-height:122%;} #yiv0053232137 #yiv0053232137ygrp-sponsor #yiv0053232137ygrp-lc 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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] New Owner - 1990 Santorin
Veit M
Hello Trevor: Just reading about your location. We had a Super Maramu for glorious 5 years and have just moved to Dubai, maybe we can grab a coffee sometime. Contact me at Veit - at - iCloud dot com if you're interested. Cheers, Veit Previous : Atman
On Oct 17, 2016, at 9:20 PM, tfortner1975@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Windlass bolt to deck
eric freedman
I have had great success over the years removing stuck and broken bolts in this manner: I use a clay like substance called here in the USA Duct Seal. I build up a small dam around the offending bolts and fill the dam with PB blaster for a week. The bolts almost always are loose by that time if not I continue the process eventually they come out. It is also important to try to turn the bolt in both directions to spread the PB blaster. When I re install them I use a paste called never seize high temperature. It is especially good on the outhaul shaft. Works like a charm. Fair Winds Eric Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Monday, October 17, 2016 8:48 AM To: amelyachtowners@... Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Windlass bolt to deck
Mike, Danny's thru-bolt solution sounds good and the drilling, as he points out, will be the key to success. With the good amount of bolt you've got left above deck you may want to try removing it before you go to drilling it out, even though it may shear off. After a good soaking with penetrants (use some acid too, to attack the salts) you may be able to lock two nuts on top to screw it out. If or when that fails you could weld a short bolt of the same diameter to the broken end and use the new bolts hex head to turn. The welding heat may also help break the threads free. If still no joy,you're likely into drilling it out,. Here's a great link to using tread inserts after drilling out the bolt. https://racemagazine.com.au/cars/thread-repair-how-to-fix-broken-bolts-and-stripped-threads Good luck with it, Craig Briggs, SN68 Sangaris.
Hi mike. I drilled mine out and put a bolt through. I now have a nut top and bottom
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