Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] xantrex/charging

karkauai
 

Hi Bill,
Yes, I understood that.  After buying batteries with a much different profile than the others I've had (by mistake, as they were called hybrid marine batteries, just like the old ones), I was charging them wrong and getting poor performance from them.  I was hoping to add something that would encourage him to learn a bit more about his batteries and charging them to get maximum performance and longevity.  I'm obviously still learning about this, too, and my last battery purchase was poorly done.

Kent
 Kristy
SM243


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] xantrex/charging

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Jeffrey,

As a general rule, when you are using the Onan, use the 100 amp. With shore power use the 30 amp. The only time you are concerned with shutting off the charger is when using the Onan.

I hope this helps you. 

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail


On Nov 20, 2016 6:38 PM, "JEFFREY KRAUS jmkraus@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Bill,
right on with those values,
As far as the charging goes, I observed the amperage in, and 30 would be too high, perhaps you're using the 100 amp charger to get that value. That would seem to be appropriate. I'm figuring 18 would probably be appropriate with the 30 amp charger. I like the idea of watching amps in as a judgement of when to stop charging rather then the amphr value.
Thanks for taking the time to respond to me.
Best Regards,
Jeff Spirit Amel54 #14


On Sun, Nov 20, 2016 at 02:35 PM, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] wrote:

 

Jeff,

Rather than looking at remaining Ah or %, I like to look at the number of amps going into the battery. I shut off charging when the number of amps going into the battery is less than 30.

The write-up in the files section that I posted there is for a Link10. You probably know that Xantrex bought Link, and made the last production of Link10. If you have a round face, you have a Link 10 and if you have a square face, you have a Xantrex Battery Monitor. I think that you have the latter...if so,:
F1 = battery amp hours times 12 then divided by 2. if they are 100 each then 600 is correct
F2 = 26.4
F3 = 2.0%
F4 = 4 min
F5 = (Default is 50%...I would use 65%)
F6 = 80%
F7 = 24.0 or possibly 23.5
F8 = 29.5
F9 = AU
F10 = 1.25
Remainder of the settings should be at Default Values

I hope this helps you.

Bill
BeBe 387



On Sun, Nov 20, 2016 at 2:54 PM, JEFFREY KRAUS jmkraus@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
 

Bill,
Unfortunately there is no model# on the xantrex.
The settings run 1 thru 20.
I looked at your explanation in the files section as Mark had suggested, and it's obviously not a link 10.
Amphrs...for my 12 pack 600ah I believe.
max volts....you said 26.4 on your explanation, I was thinking 26.7.
current charged parameter....2%
charged parameter time 4minutes
under voltage alarm....22volts
over voltage alarm....if I followed your 26.4 max volts, 26.5, if I followed mine, 26.8
peukert....I'd leave as default, 1.25
most of the other settings appear to warrant a default setting as per the manual

What would you consider to be a reasonable amperage to consider shutting off your charger. Obviously, there is a law of diminishing returns here.
A well respected friend, another Amelian, recommended a shutoff when the pack is down 80ah. This would only be a scenario where the gen set is powering the charger. Obviously a full charge would be attempted with shoreside power.
Jeff Spirit Amel54 #14



On Sun, Nov 20, 2016 at 11:23 AM, Bill Kinney greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] wrote:

 

Jeff,


Before we can help we either need to know what model Xantrex charger you have, or a guide as to what those various settings are.

Bill Kinney
SM #160, Harmonie
On the Hard, Fort Lauderdale, FL
“Ships and men rot in port."






On Nov 20, 2016, at 11:07, jmkraus@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...om> wrote:


Good Morning Amelians,

I just replaced my battery bank (12), and want to reset the xantrex monitoring system. I am charging the battery bank for the first time after some moderate discharging (130ah).

BTW, after the advise offered by Bill, I believe, I went with standard wet cells, $115 per, no tax.

Using the 30amp charger, I'm expecting to reach float stage at some point. I am showing (on the xantrex) +26a, and in 15 minutes (I've been charging for about 2 hrs) 33 ah, a difference of +5ah in 15 minutes. If I'm interpreting the data correctly, I take that to mean the charger has inputed 5ah of charge into the battery pack. When the battery pack reaches approximately 98% of it's charged capacity, I would assume the charger will be in float stage. Will the charger recognize this, and alter the incoming amperage current (and show up as a much smaller value on the xantrex, ie say from current +26a to say +2a?

I ask now because I don't want to overcharge the battery pack right off the bat. 

As far as setting the xantrex itself:

f01 600ah

f02 When the pack was orininally installed, the voltage reading was 27.2v. , so I assume 27.1 is reasonable

f03-f06 default

f07 I thought 22v would be about as low as I'd be comfortable with

f08 Considering the original voltage, I would think 27.3 would work

f09-f12 default

f13 I thought the 12 minute figure would be more appropriate considering our usage variences.

f14-f20 default


I prefer to shut off the battery power to the boat when not in use rather then run a small independent trickle charger into the pack. I usually leave a note indicating the voltage when I leave, and check it upon arrival to note the difference. Obvioiusly, as they get older, the voltage difference is generally greater, time away being equal.
Any insights into the process, or observations regarding my settings plans, or if I am misunderstanding the data/process, please feel free to comment.
Fair Winds, Sunshine, and Best Wishes to All!
Jeff Spirit Amel54 #14

ps sorry if there is a red line under some of the text


 






Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] xantrex/charging

JEFFREY KRAUS
 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] xantrex/charging

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Kent,

I believe Jeff is talking about the Xantrex battery monitor which has nothing to do with the charger and is not connected to the charger.

There are battery monitors which do actually control the charger, but what Jeff has is simply a monitor.

I hope this helps.

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail


On Nov 20, 2016 4:23 PM, "Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Jeff,

You need to know the recommended bulk amperage, top-up voltage (sorry, my mind has gone blank for the proper term for the high voltage necessary to charge between bulk and maintenance charging), and the voltage for maintenance after full charge is received for your batteries to set you charger appropriately.  I had to call the battery manufacturer technical support people to get this information.

My AHr and % charge readings get progressively less accurate with each charging cycle.  Like others say, use the battery voltage to tell you when to charge (I charge when it is 24.7V or more).  Use the Amps going into the batteries to tell you when to shut the charger off.  I have a 400 AHr bank and charge until it reaches 10A...Usually 1-1 1/2 hrs twice a day (no solar or w ind, yet).  I will go with a larger AHr bank next battery purchase.

If you are only charging to 30A every time, you will need to activate an equalization (desulfation) cycle every 2-4 weeks to refresh your batteries, or they will not hold a charge as well.

Kent
 Kristy
SM 243



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] xantrex/charging

karkauai
 

Jeff,

You need to know the recommended bulk amperage, top-up voltage (sorry, my mind has gone blank for the proper term for the high voltage necessary to charge between bulk and maintenance charging), and the voltage for maintenance after full charge is received for your batteries to set you charger appropriately.  I had to call the battery manufacturer technical support people to get this information.

My AHr and % charge readings get progressively less accurate with each charging cycle.  Like others say, use the battery voltage to tell you when to charge (I charge when it is 24.7V or more).  Use the Amps going into the batteries to tell you when to shut the charger off.  I have a 400 AHr bank and charge until it reaches 10A...Usually 1-1 1/2 hrs twice a day (no solar or wind, yet).  I will go with a larger AHr bank next battery purchase.

If you are only charging to 30A every time, you will need to activate an equalization (desulfation) cycle every 2-4 weeks to refresh your batteries, or they will not hold a charge as well.

Kent
 Kristy
SM 243


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] xantrex/charging

webercardio <webercardio@...>
 

Jeff,
I think the important thing is to have the right setting for the charger.
If you did not change the type of batteries your charger (Dolphin? later Mastervolt)should be right.
The xantrex is only a monitor.
Wolfgang Weber SY Elise Amel 54 #162 Athens Marina Zea 




 





Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] xantrex/charging

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Jeff,

Rather than looking at remaining Ah or %, I like to look at the number of amps going into the battery. I shut off charging when the number of amps going into the battery is less than 30.

The write-up in the files section that I posted there is for a Link10. You probably know that Xantrex bought Link, and made the last production of Link10. If you have a round face, you have a Link 10 and if you have a square face, you have a Xantrex Battery Monitor. I think that you have the latter...if so,:
F1 = battery amp hours times 12 then divided by 2. if they are 100 each then 600 is correct
F2 = 26.4
F3 = 2.0%
F4 = 4 min
F5 = (Default is 50%...I would use 65%)
F6 = 80%
F7 = 24.0 or possibly 23.5
F8 = 29.5
F9 = AU
F10 = 1.25
Remainder of the settings should be at Default Values

I hope this helps you.

Bill
BeBe 387



On Sun, Nov 20, 2016 at 2:54 PM, JEFFREY KRAUS jmkraus@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Bill,
Unfortunately there is no model# on the xantrex.
The settings run 1 thru 20.
I looked at your explanation in the files section as Mark had suggested, and it's obviously not a link 10.
Amphrs...for my 12 pack 600ah I believe.
max volts....you said 26.4 on your explanation, I was thinking 26.7.
current charged parameter....2%
charged parameter time 4minutes
under voltage alarm....22volts
over voltage alarm....if I followed your 26.4 max volts, 26.5, if I followed mine, 26.8
peukert....I'd leave as default, 1.25
most of the other settings appear to warrant a default setting as per the manual

What would you consider to be a reasonable amperage to consider shutting off your charger. Obviously, there is a law of diminishing returns here.
A well respected friend, another Amelian, recommended a shutoff when the pack is down 80ah. This would only be a scenario where the gen set is powering the charger. Obviously a full charge would be attempted with shoreside power.
Jeff Spirit Amel54 #14



On Sun, Nov 20, 2016 at 11:23 AM, Bill Kinney greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] wrote:

 

Jeff,


Before we can help we either need to know what model Xantrex charger you have, or a guide as to what those various settings are.

Bill Kinney
SM #160, Harmonie
On the Hard, Fort Lauderdale, FL
“Ships and men rot in port."






On Nov 20, 2016, at 11:07, jmkraus@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:


Good Morning Amelians,

I just replaced my battery bank (12), and want to reset the xantrex monitoring system. I am charging the battery bank for the first time after some moderate discharging (130ah).

BTW, after the advise offered by Bill, I believe, I went with standard wet cells, $115 per, no tax.

Using the 30amp charger, I'm expecting to reach float stage at some point. I am showing (on the xantrex) +26a, and in 15 minutes (I've been charging for about 2 hrs) 33 ah, a difference of +5ah in 15 minutes. If I'm interpreting the data correctly, I take that to mean the charger has inputed 5ah of charge into the battery pack. When the battery pack reaches approximately 98% of it's charged capacity, I would assume the charger will be in float stage. Will the charger recognize this, and alter the incoming amperage current (and show up as a much smaller value on the xantrex, ie say from current +26a to say +2a?

I ask now because I don't want to overcharge the battery pack right off the bat. 

As far as setting the xantrex itself:

f01 600ah

f02 When the pack was orininally installed, the voltage reading was 27.2v. , so I assume 27.1 is reasonable

f03-f06 default

f07 I thought 22v would be about as low as I'd be comfortable with

f08 Considering the original voltage, I would think 27.3 would work

f09-f12 default

f13 I thought the 12 minute figure would be more appropriate considering our usage variences.

f14-f20 default


I prefer to shut off the battery power to the boat when not in use rather then run a small independent trickle charger into the pack. I usually leave a note indicating the voltage when I leave, and check it upon arrival to note the difference. Obvioiusly, as they get older, the voltage difference is generally greater, time away being equal.
Any insights into the process, or observations regarding my settings plans, or if I am misunderstanding the data/process, please feel free to comment.
Fair Winds, Sunshine, and Best Wishes to All!
Jeff Spirit Amel54 #14

ps sorry if there is a red line under some of the text


 






Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] xantrex/charging

JEFFREY KRAUS
 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] xantrex/charging

Mark Erdos
 

Hi Jeff,

 

I believe you can find what you need by looking here: https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/amelyachtowners/files/Miscellaneous/

 

Bill Rouse did a fantastic job of taking the most complicated operational manual ever written by humankind and generated for us a one page quick reference.

 

As an FYI – when your Xantrex monitor goes kaput, there are a couple of much easier to use replacements that are available. I replaced mine with  a LinkLite. It used the same harness and fit in the same hole on the panel. It is much easier to program and read.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Yacht: Cream Puff

 

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Sunday, November 20, 2016 11:08 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] xantrex/charging

 

 

Good Morning Amelians,

I just replaced my battery bank (12), and want to reset the xantrex monitoring system. I am charging the battery bank for the first time after some moderate discharging (130ah).

BTW, after the advise offered by Bill, I believe, I went with standard wet cells, $115 per, no tax.

Using the 30amp charger, I'm expecting to reach float stage at some point. I am showing (on the xantrex) +26a, and in 15 minutes (I've been charging for about 2 hrs) 33 ah, a difference of +5ah in 15 minutes. If I'm interpreting the data correctly, I take that to mean the charger has inputed 5ah of charge into the battery pack. When the battery pack reaches approximately 98% of it's charged capacity, I would assume the charger will be in float stage. Will the charger recognize this, and alter the incoming amperage current (and show up as a much smaller value on the xantrex, ie say from current +26a to say +2a?

I ask now because I don't want to overcharge the battery pack right off the bat.

As far as setting the xantrex itself:

f01 600ah

f02 When the pack was orininally installed, the voltage reading was 27.2v. , so I assume 27.1 is reasonable

f03-f06 default

f07 I thought 22v would be about as low as I'd be comfortable with

f08 Considering the original voltage, I would think 27.3 would work

f09-f12 default

f13 I thought the 12 minute figure would be more appropriate considering our usage variences.

f14-f20 default

 

I prefer to shut off the battery power to the boat when not in use rather then run a small independent trickle charger into the pack. I usually leave a note indicating the voltage when I leave, and check it upon arrival to note the difference. Obvioiusly, as they get older, the voltage difference is generally greater, time away being equal.

Any insights into the process, or observations regarding my settings plans, or if I am misunderstanding the data/process, please feel free to comment.

Fair Winds, Sunshine, and Best Wishes to All!

Jeff Spirit Amel54 #14

 

ps sorry if there is a red line under some of the text

 

 

 

 

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] FURLING MOTORS

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Main furl and outhaul motors are the same on your SM. Genoa furler motor is different. These SM motors rarely fail. But sometimes require cleaning and brush replacements. The gearboxes on the Main furler and outhaul will probably fail before the motors, but you can probably get double the life that you have in those gearboxes by adding a method to grease the gearboxes. Two tapped holes normally filled with nylon screws, which for greasing once a year, are removed. One hole is then temporarily fitted with a grease fitting, the other hole is overflow. Pump grease until you have overflow. Remove the grease fitting and replace the nylon screws.  Search photos on this website for photos of this.

For motors, brushes for the motors and gearboxes write SAV"at"AMEL.FR. Include your hull number and it is always a good idea to include a photo of specifically what you want. Give them a list with photos and ask for availability and price. They will take a credit card.

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail


On Nov 20, 2016 12:04 PM, "pjp@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Peter Pappas here Supermamu2000 #369. I am looking to purchase spares for the Genoa Furling Motor, the Main Furling Motor, and the Main Out Haul motor. Are these all the same motor or do I need to purchase all three separately. Thanks for your help


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] xantrex/charging

Bill Kinney <greatketch@...>
 

Jeff,

Before we can help we either need to know what model Xantrex charger you have, or a guide as to what those various settings are.

Bill Kinney
SM #160, Harmonie
On the Hard, Fort Lauderdale, FL
“Ships and men rot in port."






On Nov 20, 2016, at 11:07, jmkraus@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


Good Morning Amelians,

I just replaced my battery bank (12), and want to reset the xantrex monitoring system. I am charging the battery bank for the first time after some moderate discharging (130ah).

BTW, after the advise offered by Bill, I believe, I went with standard wet cells, $115 per, no tax.

Using the 30amp charger, I'm expecting to reach float stage at some point. I am showing (on the xantrex) +26a, and in 15 minutes (I've been charging for about 2 hrs) 33 ah, a difference of +5ah in 15 minutes. If I'm interpreting the data correctly, I take that to mean the charger has inputed 5ah of charge into the battery pack. When the battery pack reaches approximately 98% of it's charged capacity, I would assume the charger will be in float stage. Will the charger recognize this, and alter the incoming amperage current (and show up as a much smaller value on the xantrex, ie say from current +26a to say +2a?

I ask now because I don't want to overcharge the battery pack right off the bat. 

As far as setting the xantrex itself:

f01 600ah

f02 When the pack was orininally installed, the voltage reading was 27.2v. , so I assume 27.1 is reasonable

f03-f06 default

f07 I thought 22v would be about as low as I'd be comfortable with

f08 Considering the original voltage, I would think 27.3 would work

f09-f12 default

f13 I thought the 12 minute figure would be more appropriate considering our usage variences.

f14-f20 default


I prefer to shut off the battery power to the boat when not in use rather then run a small independent trickle charger into the pack. I usually leave a note indicating the voltage when I leave, and check it upon arrival to note the difference. Obvioiusly, as they get older, the voltage difference is generally greater, time away being equal.
Any insights into the process, or observations regarding my settings plans, or if I am misunderstanding the data/process, please feel free to comment.
Fair Winds, Sunshine, and Best Wishes to All!
Jeff Spirit Amel54 #14

ps sorry if there is a red line under some of the text


 





xantrex/charging

JEFFREY KRAUS
 

Good Morning Amelians,

I just replaced my battery bank (12), and want to reset the xantrex monitoring system. I am charging the battery bank for the first time after some moderate discharging (130ah).

BTW, after the advise offered by Bill, I believe, I went with standard wet cells, $115 per, no tax.

Using the 30amp charger, I'm expecting to reach float stage at some point. I am showing (on the xantrex) +26a, and in 15 minutes (I've been charging for about 2 hrs) 33 ah, a difference of +5ah in 15 minutes. If I'm interpreting the data correctly, I take that to mean the charger has inputed 5ah of charge into the battery pack. When the battery pack reaches approximately 98% of it's charged capacity, I would assume the charger will be in float stage. Will the charger recognize this, and alter the incoming amperage current (and show up as a much smaller value on the xantrex, ie say from current +26a to say +2a?

I ask now because I don't want to overcharge the battery pack right off the bat.

As far as setting the xantrex itself:

f01 600ah

f02 When the pack was orininally installed, the voltage reading was 27.2v. , so I assume 27.1 is reasonable

f03-f06 default

f07 I thought 22v would be about as low as I'd be comfortable with

f08 Considering the original voltage, I would think 27.3 would work

f09-f12 default

f13 I thought the 12 minute figure would be more appropriate considering our usage variences.

f14-f20 default


I prefer to shut off the battery power to the boat when not in use rather then run a small independent trickle charger into the pack. I usually leave a note indicating the voltage when I leave, and check it upon arrival to note the difference. Obvioiusly, as they get older, the voltage difference is generally greater, time away being equal.
Any insights into the process, or observations regarding my settings plans, or if I am misunderstanding the data/process, please feel free to comment.
Fair Winds, Sunshine, and Best Wishes to All!
Jeff Spirit Amel54 #14

ps sorry if there is a red line under some of the text


 



FURLING MOTORS

peter pappas
 

Peter Pappas here Supermamu2000 #369. I am looking to purchase spares for the Genoa Furling Motor, the Main Furling Motor, and the Main Out Haul motor. Are these all the same motor or do I need to purchase all three separately. Thanks for your help


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Rudder dismantle

James Alton
 

Donato,
  The rudder is made of two halves so some evidence of a seam may be normal.  Again the Amel rudder is new to me so if an expert like Oliver responds I would be listening to him.  
   Have you tried applying moderate force to turn the rudder each way (perhaps two men pushing on the rudder TE while the rudder shaft is held in some fashion) to see if what you think is a crack opens and closes as the force is applied and released?   

Best,
James Alton
SV Sueno, Maramu #220
Arbatax, Italy

Sent from Samsung Mobile



-------- Original message --------
From: "Donato Valente ing.d.valente@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...>
Date: 11-20-2016 10:33 AM (GMT-04:00)
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Rudder dismantle


 



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Rudder dismantle

Donato Valente
 

Thanks for the great help. 
We will post later some pics, but we are unable to evaluate how deep is the crack because it runs vertically along the shaft near the skeg face. So it's quite difficult to work on. 
Thanks again 
Donato 

Inviato da iPhone

Il giorno 20 nov 2016, alle ore 04:20, christian alby calbyy@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> ha scritto:

 

I had the rudder down on our Maramu last spring
due to cracks & poor repairs done when the one of the previous owners replaced or repaired the rudder shaft following a hard rounding (pure guess work as we do not have any history for the vessel).

Step by step on how we did it on the hard
- lift up the boat so as you have at least an additional 60 cm ground clearance to allow the rudder to slip down
- shore up (vwith wooden block Under the rudder to support
- remove pilot link on rudder lever in cabin
- remove clamping bolts & nuts (3 x 10mm) on the square section top of shaft; grounding straps off; Watch out for shims on square section
- unbolt center support on rudder blade (called femelot in french); when bolts are unscrewed both flanges will open up on their own free will; do not cut grounding cable (SSB) linking to copper plate
- unbolt clamping bolts & nuts (3 x 10 mm)  on base of rudder blade (called crapaudine in french);
- support weight of rudder slipping lever beam Under, & remove wooden blocks supporting the rudder. Bring down slowly supporing by hand (two strong men can hold with ne assistant to guide).
- rudder laid down on ground you will be free t inspect & check for cracks & faulty repairs (ours was stuffed with gel coat resin & fiber to fill in around SS shaft )
- do all necessary repairs using proper methods (clean down to sane material, & rebuild using resin fiber cloth before protecting)
- take advantage to check main hull on skeg for cracks wher half hulls were assembled together (weak point on old boats can genertae cracks and water ingress if damaged)

Then you will have to reverse actions to mount back in hull ...
another story requiring patient adjusting when bolting the 'Femelot' & the 'Crapaudine', to match 2 x 3 bolt holes, & to cut to length when securely fastened.

final step will be to replace packing on top of shaft; screwing on delrin nut after each navigation until well tightened (not too much !).
check bolts on square section regularly, they come unfastened with rudder motion if not checked.

Hope this helps
fair winds 

christian alby - Maramu 168 Désirade VIII - Canet South of France
 




De : "Donato Valente ing.d.valente@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...>
À : amelyachtowners@...
Envoyé le : Dimanche 20 novembre 2016 2h53
Objet : Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Rudder dismantle

 
Many thanks Joel for the precious and comforting information. 
Still waiting some kind sailor who can give us suggestions for rudder dismantling. 

Thanks

Donato 


Inviato da iPhone

Il giorno 19 nov 2016, alle ore 19:16, 'Joel Potter' jfpottercys@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> ha scritto:

 
No, the rudder is designed to be full of water to add a dampening effect. It is normal for it to pee like a cow on a flat rock. If it does not, you might have a problem.  Make sure the exit hole is not corrupted with marine growth. As you use the boat and have occasion to look under the water line, it is a good idea to have the appropriate tool to be sure that this exit hole is free and clear.  Properly sized Philips head screwdrivers works well for most of us. Insert it into the drain hole and give it a 360 degree exercise.
 
When I give the Amel School to my buyer clients, this is addressed as it is so very important that sea water has easy in and out movement from the rudder.
 
Please, sellers, spend a few days with the new owners of your now sold boat to pass knowledge along that will ensure the survival of the brand . This is for the common good. Trust me…
 
Please feel free to call me if you need a solid explanation about this.
 
 
Joel F. Potter/Cruising Yacht Specialist LLC
THE EXPERIENCED AMEL GUY
954 462 5869 office
954 812 2485 cell
 
 
 
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, November 19, 2016 6:31 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Rudder dismantle
 
 
Good day.
We put the sm2000 on the hard and found on hauling the boat out large quantity of water flowing from the hole on bottom of the rudder. Shouldn't be a cap on the hole ?
Secondly we must service the rudder because of some cracks on the surface.
We need your advice for dismantling the rudder. We never did it before, so will appreciate how to proceed.
Thanks for your help.
Donato

SM2000 Ocean Bird #468
In Linton Bay, Panama

Inviato da iPhone



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Rudder dismantle

christian alby <calbyy@...>
 

I had the rudder down on our Maramu last spring
due to cracks & poor repairs done when the one of the previous owners replaced or repaired the rudder shaft following a hard rounding (pure guess work as we do not have any history for the vessel).

Step by step on how we did it on the hard
- lift up the boat so as you have at least an additional 60 cm ground clearance to allow the rudder to slip down
- shore up (vwith wooden block Under the rudder to support
- remove pilot link on rudder lever in cabin
- remove clamping bolts & nuts (3 x 10mm) on the square section top of shaft; grounding straps off; Watch out for shims on square section
- unbolt center support on rudder blade (called femelot in french); when bolts are unscrewed both flanges will open up on their own free will; do not cut grounding cable (SSB) linking to copper plate
- unbolt clamping bolts & nuts (3 x 10 mm)  on base of rudder blade (called crapaudine in french);
- support weight of rudder slipping lever beam Under, & remove wooden blocks supporting the rudder. Bring down slowly supporing by hand (two strong men can hold with ne assistant to guide).
- rudder laid down on ground you will be free t inspect & check for cracks & faulty repairs (ours was stuffed with gel coat resin & fiber to fill in around SS shaft )
- do all necessary repairs using proper methods (clean down to sane material, & rebuild using resin fiber cloth before protecting)
- take advantage to check main hull on skeg for cracks wher half hulls were assembled together (weak point on old boats can genertae cracks and water ingress if damaged)

Then you will have to reverse actions to mount back in hull ...
another story requiring patient adjusting when bolting the 'Femelot' & the 'Crapaudine', to match 2 x 3 bolt holes, & to cut to length when securely fastened.

final step will be to replace packing on top of shaft; screwing on delrin nut after each navigation until well tightened (not too much !).
check bolts on square section regularly, they come unfastened with rudder motion if not checked.

Hope this helps
fair winds 

christian alby - Maramu 168 Désirade VIII - Canet South of France
 




De : "Donato Valente ing.d.valente@... [amelyachtowners]"
À : amelyachtowners@...
Envoyé le : Dimanche 20 novembre 2016 2h53
Objet : Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Rudder dismantle

 
Many thanks Joel for the precious and comforting information. 
Still waiting some kind sailor who can give us suggestions for rudder dismantling. 

Thanks

Donato 


Inviato da iPhone

Il giorno 19 nov 2016, alle ore 19:16, 'Joel Potter' jfpottercys@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> ha scritto:

 
No, the rudder is designed to be full of water to add a dampening effect. It is normal for it to pee like a cow on a flat rock. If it does not, you might have a problem.  Make sure the exit hole is not corrupted with marine growth. As you use the boat and have occasion to look under the water line, it is a good idea to have the appropriate tool to be sure that this exit hole is free and clear.  Properly sized Philips head screwdrivers works well for most of us. Insert it into the drain hole and give it a 360 degree exercise.
 
When I give the Amel School to my buyer clients, this is addressed as it is so very important that sea water has easy in and out movement from the rudder.
 
Please, sellers, spend a few days with the new owners of your now sold boat to pass knowledge along that will ensure the survival of the brand . This is for the common good. Trust me…
 
Please feel free to call me if you need a solid explanation about this.
 
 
Joel F. Potter/Cruising Yacht Specialist LLC
THE EXPERIENCED AMEL GUY
954 462 5869 office
954 812 2485 cell
 
 
 
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, November 19, 2016 6:31 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Rudder dismantle
 
 
Good day.
We put the sm2000 on the hard and found on hauling the boat out large quantity of water flowing from the hole on bottom of the rudder. Shouldn't be a cap on the hole ?
Secondly we must service the rudder because of some cracks on the surface.
We need your advice for dismantling the rudder. We never did it before, so will appreciate how to proceed.
Thanks for your help.
Donato

SM2000 Ocean Bird #468
In Linton Bay, Panama

Inviato da iPhone



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Older Super Maramu Raw Water Manifold

Germain Jean-Pierre <jgermain@...>
 

Hello Bill & al,

We did something different; we installed a second independent “sea chest” serving the needs of AC, genset and Dessalator.  As our new AC is Webasto, it needed significantly more water.  So we went for a 2 inch feed from the hull and sized the feeder pipes according to the manufacturer recommendations for each service.

We also removed the Original “seachest” sea cock and to my amazement, the hole had been wilfully partially obstructed to reduce the entry size to .75 inch…. 

New components are SS except for the water strainers which are bronze if I recall (I’d have to look).  We also added a 1 1/2 inch connector line with shut off valve to ensure feed to the main engine should its strainer become blocked.  The work was done in Majorca by Peter Kuklok, (Yacht Concept Majorca) the best marine engineer I’ve ever met.

We now have a fully safe dual system.

Kind regards,



Jean-Pierre Germain
SY Eleuthera, SM007
Lanzarote… waiting for the “trades” to set… looks like a long wait in store.



On 20 Nov 2016, at 02:00, greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Bill from BeBe has posted some very helpful information about the raw water manifold in newer model SM's. For those of us with older boats, the arrangement is quite different, and in most ways a lot simpler.


If you haven't gotten the memo, and you have an older boat, be sure to inspect this system carefully.  Joel Potter has pointed out that some older boats have had significant corrosion issues with this Amel manufactured copper piece. It would really ruin your day if it failed offshore!


In our current haulout, I completely disassembled the raw water system, and was lucky enough to find everything in excellent order.  If you have an older SM, take a look here: 


Raw Water Manifold Inspection


Bill Kinney 

SM #160, Harmonie

On the hard, Fort Lauderdale, FL

"Ships and men rot in port."

fetchinketch





Jean-Pierre Germain,
+44 7551 211 511
jp.germain@...


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Rudder dismantle

Beaute Olivier
 

Hello Donato,

removing the rudder blade is not a quick and easy job...
Before telling you how to do it, I would like to know what is the extent of the cracks. Did you hit something or came aground? A sma11 to medium hit and consequent cracks are usually repairable on the spot, without dismantling the rudder from its location.

You could send one or two pictures to help.

Have a good day.

Olivier.


On Sunday, November 20, 2016 3:44 AM, "James Alton lokiyawl2@... [amelyachtowners]" wrote:


 
Donato,

   I am sure that someone will be back to you soon on how to remove your rudder.  I thought that I would direct you to the File section of this Owners group where under “Amel Drawings” there are 7 pages of drawings on the Super Maramu rudder which might be helpful.  Also, if you have not already done so, take some photos of the “surface cracks” that are of concern to you since they could be helpful in giving some direction.  The rudder on my boat has some cracks in the areas around the hinge points that is only a fairing compound applied over the fittings to smooth things up and as such are not a problem,  you did not say where yours were.  My Amel is relatively new to me so again best to have one of the experts direct you through the removal process but I will say from having worked on boats all my life for a living that the Amel rudders are very well constructed and unlikely to fail barring major damage.  I would evaluate the cracks that you are seeing before making a determination to remove the rudder.

Best,

James Alton
SV, Sueno, Maramu #220
Arbatax,  Italy

On Nov 19, 2016, at 9:53 PM, Donato Valente ing.d.valente@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


Many thanks Joel for the precious and comforting information. 
Still waiting some kind sailor who can give us suggestions for rudder dismantling. 

Thanks

Donato 






Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Rudder dismantle

James Alton
 

Donato,

   I am sure that someone will be back to you soon on how to remove your rudder.  I thought that I would direct you to the File section of this Owners group where under “Amel Drawings” there are 7 pages of drawings on the Super Maramu rudder which might be helpful.  Also, if you have not already done so, take some photos of the “surface cracks” that are of concern to you since they could be helpful in giving some direction.  The rudder on my boat has some cracks in the areas around the hinge points that is only a fairing compound applied over the fittings to smooth things up and as such are not a problem,  you did not say where yours were.  My Amel is relatively new to me so again best to have one of the experts direct you through the removal process but I will say from having worked on boats all my life for a living that the Amel rudders are very well constructed and unlikely to fail barring major damage.  I would evaluate the cracks that you are seeing before making a determination to remove the rudder.

Best,

James Alton
SV, Sueno, Maramu #220
Arbatax,  Italy

On Nov 19, 2016, at 9:53 PM, Donato Valente ing.d.valente@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


Many thanks Joel for the precious and comforting information. 
Still waiting some kind sailor who can give us suggestions for rudder dismantling. 

Thanks

Donato 




Older Super Maramu Raw Water Manifold

greatketch@...
 

Bill from BeBe has posted some very helpful information about the raw water manifold in newer model SM's. For those of us with older boats, the arrangement is quite different, and in most ways a lot simpler.


If you haven't gotten the memo, and you have an older boat, be sure to inspect this system carefully.  Joel Potter has pointed out that some older boats have had significant corrosion issues with this Amel manufactured copper piece. It would really ruin your day if it failed offshore!


In our current haulout, I completely disassembled the raw water system, and was lucky enough to find everything in excellent order.  If you have an older SM, take a look here: 


Raw Water Manifold Inspection


Bill Kinney 

SM #160, Harmonie

On the hard, Fort Lauderdale, FL

"Ships and men rot in port."

fetchinketch