Hi Vladimir,

It sounds like the issue is that you are trying to push on the edge of the sleeve, which is incorrect. You must only push on the flange, never on the edge of the sleeve. No special tools needed.

You install the first sleeve with the flange side down, that is, the flange goes on first and you do not remove that flange. Again, you are pushing on the flange, not the edge. You then cut a notch in the flange of the second sleeve and then put it on again flange first, sliding it down so it is very close to the first one. Again, you only push on the flanges, not the edge of the sleeve. Finally, you take a pliers and remove the flange of the second sleeve (not the first sleeve). There will be a small gap between the two sleeves after you remove the flange - not a problem as no seals rub there.

Hope that helps,

Cheers, Craig, SN#68 Sangaris

---In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, wrote :

Hi Crag,

I have reviewed the instructions. Instructions are not applicable for our case.
Instructions recommend to push Speedi sleeves by the flange. It will not work for us. Because the  first sleeve should contact a bushing shoulder by it's edge after the flange is removed. That is additional 2.99 mm. Similar situation is with a second sleeve. It should contact the end of the first sleeve after the flange is removed. Both sleeves have to be pushed for 2.99 mm by force that is applied on a sleeve edge. The edges are very thin. You need a special tool that slides with minimum clerance on the outer edge of the sleeve with a step to smaller diameter that slids on the wear bushing. That tool has to be made. It will cost probubly $100.00 or $200.00. The edge of the sleeve should not be damaged during installation. If sleev's edge is damaged it can cut a seal during installation.
Perhaps Speedi sleeve option is not practical in our application because sleeve's installation has to deviat from SKF instructions.

Vladimir
SM # 345

 

I recently swapped out my headsail boxtron unit with my staysail boxtron unit. I am replacing the staysail boxtron unit with the new boxtron e14s unit. Besides the conversion of the +/- power cables to and from the unit (from power, and to the furler motor) to new clip on connections, which is a straight forward job, there is one issue that presents itself. The old boxtron had 2 wires coming from the switch at the helm. I assume that there was an internal ground in the boxtron unit that allowed the switches to share a common ground. The new boxtron unit shows 3 wires, coming from the switches, in/out/and a common ground.

I have spoken to Paul (Bamar USA). He explained where the 2 switch wires from the old unit went, but the common ground wire shown on the wiring plan for the new unit wasn't identified. Our conversation via email left off with me needing to look at the switches in the cockpit, and revisiting the wiring after that.

If anyone has done this switch from the boxtron to the boxtron e14s? Any insight would be appreciated.

One side note:

In my conversation with Paul,( who was very helpful and forthcoming), he brought up the issue of an overheat sensor on the boxtron unit.

Apparently, the furlers that I have installed aboard do not have an overheat sensor. This, I assume would send a signal to the boxtron to shut off the motor when overloaded during use, avoiding damage to the furler. The next generation has that feature built in.

Jeff Spirit 54 #14

 

 

Good morning Danny,
I just compare the Dolphin owner manual and my new MDP, unfortunately I won’t have the Sulphation recovery Program like you have…
Very interesting curve.

Also thanks for the Super Wind info.

Sincerely Alexandre

--------------------------------------------

On Fri, 12/2/16, Danny and Yvonne SIMMS simms@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Strange Battery charging…

To: "amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Friday, December 2, 2016, 6:33 PM


 









Hi
Alexandre,My

Dolphin chargers have a desulphation phase. Position 9. It
runs to have the batteries at 34 volts and then dropping
until finishing with a float phase at 27.6v. Takes two hours
to complete. I turn off all instrumentation and don't
enliven anything electrical during the process. My main
battery switches remain on. I do all the 12 batteries
together in situ. All cell caps off and the lid to the
battery locker closed.. Avoid doing anything that might
create an ignition source, there is a lot of toxic gas
produced. Without the closed battery compartment vented
outside it would be suicidal to do this in the

boat.As I

said in my post I desulphated yesterday. The boat is on the
mooring and I had noticed battery volts were at or above 28
every time I went on board (solar panels and wind generator)
This indicated to me that the batteries were sulphated. (see
my comments in yesterdays post) Today, post desulphation
they were at 25. (rising as the solar kicked
in)CheersDannySM
299 Ocean Pearl 

From: "Alexandre
Uster von Baar uster@... [amelyachtowners]"

<amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>

To:
amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, 3

December 2016 9:54 AM

Subject: Re: [Amel
Yacht Owners] Strange Battery charging…



 

Hello Danny,



Desulphalisation is the word I was looking for!

I put a “Pulse” system 3 years ago, it is 24 volt so
connected on 2 batteries at the time, not sure it was
useful…



How do you desulphalise?



Sincerely, Alexandre

SM2K #289 NIKIMAT

Harbor View Marina, Tortola, BVI



--------------------------------------------

On Fri, 12/2/16, Danny and Yvonne SIMMS simms@...
[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
wrote:

Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Strange Battery
charging…

To: "amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com"
<amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>

Date: Friday, December 2, 2016, 2:46 PM





 



















Hi

Gary,The

detail you go to in caring for your batteries
intimidates

me. I bought our 12, 6 volt wet cell lead acid batteries

from West marine in Newport Rhode Island in July 2009. I
top

the water up from our water tank as needed  (the only
water

that goes into our tank comes from the water maker) and
if

they begin to not hold charge I desulphate. I believe on
a

logical thought process (I think it is logical anyway)
that

individual batteries may sulphate at different rates so
the

performance for each battery would be affected
differently.

So I would think that detailed individual testing may
give

misleading results unless the bank had recently been

desulphated.

I had

got to the point of thinking I needed to replace them
and

then I found how to desulphate.Sulphates

build up on the plates and reduce the ability for the
charge

to get to the plates. The more sulphates the less charge

gets through. What happens is the batteries seem to
charge

more quickly but then discharge rapidly. The higher the
rate

of amp input the worse the effect as the charger senses
the

batteries are full and cuts out. A lower rate of charge

trickles through the sulphate coating and results in a

fuller genuine charge. Imagine pumping water through a
fine

filter with a pump with a pressure cut out. A high flow

pump would build up pressure quickly and cut out. A
lower

flow pump would keep going. But, best solution, remove
the

filter ie desulphate.I

also confess to at times over discharging (too often)
but

here we are 8 years down the track and still going. (now

I've said that they'll fail tomorrow) I believe
the

solar panels and the wind generator are critical
components

the battery longevity. All the time it is on the mooring
the

batteries are kept to optimum levels, we leave one fridge
on

and there is a dump load system for the wind generator.
If

its cloudy and windy the generator does it. If its sunny
and

still, the panels. If its sunny AND windy;

wow.CheersDannySM

299 Ocean PearlMangonuiNew

Zealand









From: amelliahona

<no_reply@...>

To:

amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Saturday, 3

December 2016 8:50 AM

Subject: Re: [Amel

Yacht Owners] Strange Battery charging…







 



















Hi

Alexandre:

I

don't recall the Serial Number of you boat, but mine
(SN

335) accepts 8 , group 31 batteries for the house bank.
 I

am in Puerto Rico and just purchased 8 Trojan SCS225
deep

cycle flooded lead acid batteries from Battery Giant (a
USA

national chain) for $237 each (I ordered them and they
took

about 2.5 weeks to arrive, I picked them up in San Juan

(actually Guaynabo which is part of the San Juan
megaplex)

with a rental car.  I have used Battery Giant twice for

various battery needs and they treated me fairly both
times.

 They were very solicitous.  I worked with Javier,
phone

787-272-0533.  I can recommend them.  This

is the second set of Trojan SCS225s I have purchased
(last

set bought in Antigua and cost $125 more each because
they

were further down island).  When you buy a set of
batteries

look at the serial numbers on the batteries to see if
you

get a fairly consistent run of numbers to exclude the

potential for getting some older ones mixed with newer
ones

as they sat in stock at the vendor.

I echo the idea that one bad battery

can bring down an entire bank.  As I monitor my bank I
try

to follow the specifics of the battery manufacturer

faithfully (in my case Trojans). I do the

following:

1. I  use

a digital volt meter to check the voltage of each
battery

about once a week when I am aboard.  Testing
conditions:

 I fully charge the bank, then turn off all current
draws,

wait 30 minutes to an hour then check each battery (not
each

pair).  This does not require disconnecting each pair,
just

measure from positive to negative across each individual

battery.  I log this data in a spreadsheet to spot
trends.

 Takes me about 10 minutes.2.  I check the

battery water level each week when aboard and have the

caretaker check it monthly when not aboard.  Top up the

level ONLY when the batteries are fully charged.  Use
only

distilled water (NOT

PURIFIED WATER).  You don't want minerals in the
water.

Takes me about 20 minutes and I am surprised at how much

water they use in the hot Caribbean.3.  I

measure the specific gravity of each cell using a
hydrometer

(6 cells X 8 batteries = 48 cells) once a month.  I do
this

at the same time I check the battery voltages and under
the

same testing conditions.  Log that data to spot trends.
 A

single failing cell can bring down the whole bank. Takes
me

about 1 hour.4.  I load test any suspect battery

with the load tester that Bill Rouse

recommended.5.  Make sure you have a digital

thermometer in you battery box, one that has a probe with
a

programable alarm capability.  A single bad cell can
cause

an overcharging condition that will boil your entire
bank

(been there twice in my 15 years of owning Liahona).
 Takes

hours to remove and clean up the batteries and the
battery

box from the spilled electrolyte not to mention the harm

done to the batteries.5.  I never leave the boat

plugged in to shore power with a charger on if I am going
to

be absent from the boat for more than a couple of hours.
 I

just don't want to burn down my boat from an

overcharging scenario.6.  Equalize your

batteries if you have the capability to do so.  Follow
the

manufacturers directions and be very very careful as you
do

so to make sure the bank is disconnected from all loads
and

carefully monitor the process.  

I wish you the best, 

Gary S. Silver  s/v Liahona  

 Amel #335   Currently in Puerto Del Rey Marina Puerto

RicoI

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Vladimir,

I think you will find that several people have installed speedi-sleeves on an Amel “wearing-out-bearing” without issue.

Some people have had good luck with them, getting longer life than from the original part, while other have not gotten any extended life from them.  I am not sure why the differences. Maybe the amount of abrasive sediment in the water they sail in?  Maybe they blame the sleeves when it is actually the seal that has failed and the sleeves are just fine.

I am not aware of anyone who has tried them who has reported they were a disaster.

If they wear out, they are easily removed and new ones installed.

They are cheaper and more readily available than the Amel original IF you are in a major industrial port.  If you are “out island” there is no real difference in availability or cost between sourcing an Amel bearing and a set of sleeves.

On my boat I have two spare bearings new from Amel, and two sets of speedi-sleeves.  The bearing in the drive right now has speedi-sleeves on it.  

Bill Kinney

SM #160, Harmonie

On the Hard, Fort Lauderdale, FL

“Ships and men rot in port."

http://fetchinketch.net

On Dec 2, 2016, at 21:29, Vladimir Sonsev sonsev52@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Hi Crag,

I have reviewed the instructions. Instructions are not applicable for our case.
Instructions recommend to push Speedi sleeves by the flange. It will not work for us. Because the  first sleeve should contact a bushing shoulder by it's edge after the flange is removed. That is additional 2.99 mm. Similar situation is with a second sleeve. It should contact the end of the first sleeve after the flange is removed. Both sleeves have to be pushed for 2.99 mm by force that is applied on a sleeve edge. The edges are very thin. You need a special tool that slides with minimum clerance on the outer edge of the sleeve with a step to smaller diameter that slids on the wear bushing. That tool has to be made. It will cost probubly $100.00 or $200.00. The edge of the sleeve should not be damaged during installation. If sleev's edge is damaged it can cut a seal during installation.
Perhaps Speedi sleeve option is not practical in our application because sleeve's installation has to deviat from SKF instructions. 

Vladimir
SM # 345