Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] solenoid & relay replacement

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Just a little side remark.

I am not sure about other models, but I have been very impressed with the robust quality of relays and solenoids on the Super Maramu. The ones selected by Amel cost as much as 10 times what you might find at an auto supply store.

The quality of these Amel selected parts is VERY important. A defective relay or solenoid can lock a device ON when you least need it. Ask Gian whose bow thruster locked ON burned itself  up and almost burned his 54 to the waterline. Save money on wax and polish if you need to save money, but relays and solenoids...buy the very best that you can find.

My sermon for this Sunday is now over...please stand and salute Captain Amel.

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail
Currently USVI


Re: boxtron replacement

luvkante
 

Jeffrey,

I see. I have constant trouble as well. Shuts off and starts beeping. But when I switch it on and off, it starts working again


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: boxtron replacement

JEFFREY KRAUS
 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Wearing out bearing

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Eric,

That is the VERY REASON that I have not tried Speedi Sleeves. I assume the reason for using the sleeves is to get longer life out of the wear bushing. Since I service the C Drive and Bow Thruster every two years when hauled out for antifouling, I cannot justify adding a Speedi Sleeve or two. If you add Speedi Sleeves because you want to  eliminate water intrusion, I suggest that you should review the service  procedure. When it's done correctly, there will not be intrusion.

Now, that said, Amel accidentally shipped what I believe is a test prototype of a wear bushing with chrome plating where the seals ride on the bushing. I have not been able to get the story behind this chrome plated wear bushing from Amel. The person who has this part is going to try it shortly, but it will probably be a year or two before he has any reportable results.

Does anyone in the Group have any inside information on this partially chrome plated wear bushing? Maybe he shouldn't try it?

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail


On Dec 3, 2016 6:59 PM, "'sailormon' kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

The excess sleeve that hangs over the wearing out bearing can easily be removed with a dremel tool. Takes a minute.

Also I was able to get the two sleeves to butt up against each other , Unfortunately I forgot how.

Why not just buy a few new ones from Amel they are only 149 euros each?

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com [mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Saturday, December 03, 2016 5:12 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Wearing out bearing

 

 

Craig,

Thanks a lot for providing details. That is very important.

I do not have the sleeves yet. I am just thinking how can I install two sleeves on the bushing. The wear bushing is 28 mm long plus 2 mm chamfer. That is total 30 mm.

A sleeve with a flange is 17 mm long.&nbsp ; A sleeve without a flange is 14 mm. There will be a gap between the sleevs 1 mm or more. Totally two sleeves will cover cove 17+14+1=32 mm.

Therefore the second sleeve will cover the chamfer and overhang the wear bushing by 2 mm.

Is this correct??

 

On Dec 3, 2016 7:52 AM, "sangaris@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

 

Hi Vladimir,

It sounds like the issue is that you are tr ying to push on the edge of the sleeve, which is incorrect. You must only push on the flange, never on the edge of the sleeve. No special tools needed.

You install the first sleeve with the flange side down, that is, the flange goes on first and you do not remove that flange. Again, you are pushing on the flange, not the edge. You then cut a notch in the flange of the second sleeve and then put it on again flange first, sliding it down so it is very close to the first one. Again, you only push on the flanges, not the edge of the sleeve. Finally, you take a pliers and remove the flange of the second sleeve (not the first sleeve). There will be a small gap between the two sleeves after you remove the flange - not a problem as no seals rub there.

Hope that helps,

Cheers, Craig, SN#68 S angaris

 



---In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, <sonsev52@...> wrote :

Hi Crag,

I have reviewed the instructions. Instructions are not applicable for our case.
Instructions recommend to push Speedi sleeves by the flange. It will not work for us. Because the  first sleeve should contact a bushing shoulder by it's edge after the flange is removed. That is additional 2.99 mm. Similar situation is with a second sleeve. It should contact the end of the first sleeve after the flange is removed. Both sleeves have to be pushed for 2.99 mm by force that is applied on a sleeve edge. The edges are very thin. You need a special tool that slides with minimum clerance on the outer edge of the sleeve with a step to smaller diameter that slids on the wear bushing. That tool has to be made. It will cost probubly $100.00 or $200.00. The edge of the sleeve should not be damaged during installation. If sleev's edge is damaged it can cut a seal during installation.
Perhaps Speedi sleeve option is not practical in our application because sleeve's installation has to deviat from SKF instructions.

Vladimir
SM # 345


Re: boxtron replacement

Bob Hodgins <bobh@...>
 

Jeff,
I have an answer for you, as I recently did exactly the same procedure. My 54 is #31, so likely very similar to yours. When my original boxtron failed, Paul was also helpful in replacing it with the newer e14s, but the same issue of 2 vs. 3 wires was the problem he could not answer. In the original configuration, when you activated the switch, it supplied 24v to the boxtron, and depending on which way the switch was switched, it would power right or left turns. The new e14S only requires to contact the ground with either of the other leads to activate the turns. It supplies the power internally, you only need to make the contact. I think the terminals were 4, 5, and 6 in the e14S, or maybe it was 5, 6, and 7. Either way you need to contact the middle one with either of the other to make it run in one direction or the other.
I had spare relays for the bow thruster up down circuit. They are little ice cube relays that are available in most any auto parts store for less than $10. A part number is 24V-03526. Google it to find them. I installed 2 of them right in the e14 box using the 24v from the original wires, one to each relay, to activate the relay, which closes the contacts to complete the circuit for the e14s.
Pick up a ground internally in the e14s, connect it to terminal 85 on each relay. Connect one of the original power wires to terminal 86 on each of the relays. In the e14s box, connect terminal 5 to terminal 30 on both relays, and connect terminal 4 to terminal 87 on one relay and terminal 6 to the other relay terminal 87. Easy install without having to change any wires from the helm to the bow.
Cheers,
Bob Hodgins
Gallivant
Amel 54 #31
currently in St. Thomas, USVI


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Changing companionway veneer.

James Alton
 

Eric,

   I will keep this in mind, thanks.  I have some higher priority projects on the to do list so it might be a while before I get to the slider.

Best,

James Alton
SV Sueno,  Maramu #220
Arbatax,  Italy

On Dec 3, 2016, at 6:25 PM, 'sailormon' kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


James,

Please contact me before you do the job there are a few tricks that you must do to get a perfect job.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Wearing out bearing

VLADIMIR SONSEV
 

Hi Bill,

If we do not have a gap between sleeves 17+14= 31 mm.  Second sleeve still covers the chamfer and overhang by 1mm. I really do not see how it can work.
The only way possible is to remove the flange on the first sleeve and push it to the wear bushing shoulder. But I don't see how it can be done.

VLADIMIR
SM #345 "LIFE IS GOOD"


On Dec 3, 2016 5:57 PM, "Bill Kinney greatketch@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Do not let the sleeves overhang the chamfer. The sharp edge will tear the rubber lip of the seal. 

They will go on all the way without a gap between. 

Bill Kinney
SM #160, Harmonie
On the hard, Ft Lauderdale, FL

On Dec 3, 2016, at 17:12, Vladimir Sonsev sonsev52@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

Craig,

Thanks a lot for providing details. That is very important.

I do not have the sleeves yet. I am just thinking how can I install two sleeves on the bushing. The wear bushing is 28 mm long plus 2 mm chamfer. That is total 30 mm.

A sleeve with a flange is 17 mm long.  A sleeve without a flange is 14 mm. There will be a gap between the sleevs 1 mm or more. Totally two sleeves will cover cove 17+14+1=32 mm.

Therefore the second sleeve will cover the chamfer and overhang the wear bushing by 2 mm.

Is this correct??


On Dec 3, 2016 7:52 AM, "sangaris@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
 


Hi Vladimir,
It sounds like the issue is that you are trying to push on the edge of the sleeve, which is incorrect. You must only push on the flange, never on the edge of the sleeve. No special tools needed.
You install the first sleeve with the flange side down, that is, the flange goes on first and you do not remove that flange. Again, you are pushing on the flange, not the edge. You then cut a notch in the flange of the second sleeve and then put it on again flange first, sliding it down so it is very close to the first one. Again, you only push on the flanges, not the edge of the sleeve. Finally, you take a pliers and remove the flange of the second sleeve (not the first sleeve). There will be a small gap between the two sleeves after you remove the flange - not a problem as no seals rub there.
Hope that helps,
Cheers, Craig, SN#68 Sangaris



---In amelyachtowners@...m, wrote :

Hi Crag,

I have reviewed the instructions. Instructions are not applicable for our case.
Instructions recommend to push Speedi sleeves by the flange. It will not work for us. Because the  first sleeve should contact a bushing shoulder by it's edge after the flange is removed. That is additional 2.99 mm. Similar situation is with a second sleeve. It should contact the end of the first sleeve after the flange is removed. Both sleeves have to be pushed for 2.99 mm by force that is applied on a sleeve edge. The edges are very thin. You need a special tool that slides with minimum clerance on the outer edge of the sleeve with a step to smaller diameter that slids on the wear bushing. That tool has to be made. It will cost probubly $100.00 or $200.00. The edge of the sleeve should not be damaged during installation. If sleev's edge is damaged it can cut a seal during installation.
Perhaps Speedi sleeve option is not practical in our application because sleeve's installation has to deviat from SKF instructions.

Vladimir
SM # 345


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Wearing out bearing

Bill Kinney <greatketch@...>
 

Do not let the sleeves overhang the chamfer. The sharp edge will tear the rubber lip of the seal. 

They will go on all the way without a gap between. 

Bill Kinney
SM #160, Harmonie
On the hard, Ft Lauderdale, FL

On Dec 3, 2016, at 17:12, Vladimir Sonsev sonsev52@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Craig,

Thanks a lot for providing details. That is very important.

I do not have the sleeves yet. I am just thinking how can I install two sleeves on the bushing. The wear bushing is 28 mm long plus 2 mm chamfer. That is total 30 mm.

A sleeve with a flange is 17 mm long.  A sleeve without a flange is 14 mm. There will be a gap between the sleevs 1 mm or more. Totally two sleeves will cover cove 17+14+1=32 mm.

Therefore the second sleeve will cover the chamfer and overhang the wear bushing by 2 mm.

Is this correct??


On Dec 3, 2016 7:52 AM, "sangaris@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 


Hi Vladimir,
It sounds like the issue is that you are trying to push on the edge of the sleeve, which is incorrect. You must only push on the flange, never on the edge of the sleeve. No special tools needed.
You install the first sleeve with the flange side down, that is, the flange goes on first and you do not remove that flange. Again, you are pushing on the flange, not the edge. You then cut a notch in the flange of the second sleeve and then put it on again flange first, sliding it down so it is very close to the first one. Again, you only push on the flanges, not the edge of the sleeve. Finally, you take a pliers and remove the flange of the second sleeve (not the first sleeve). There will be a small gap between the two sleeves after you remove the flange - not a problem as no seals rub there.
Hope that helps,
Cheers, Craig, SN#68 Sangaris



---In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, wrote :

Hi Crag,

I have reviewed the instructions. Instructions are not applicable for our case.
Instructions recommend to push Speedi sleeves by the flange. It will not work for us. Because the  first sleeve should contact a bushing shoulder by it's edge after the flange is removed. That is additional 2.99 mm. Similar situation is with a second sleeve. It should contact the end of the first sleeve after the flange is removed. Both sleeves have to be pushed for 2.99 mm by force that is applied on a sleeve edge. The edges are very thin. You need a special tool that slides with minimum clerance on the outer edge of the sleeve with a step to smaller diameter that slids on the wear bushing. That tool has to be made. It will cost probubly $100.00 or $200.00. The edge of the sleeve should not be damaged during installation. If sleev's edge is damaged it can cut a seal during installation.
Perhaps Speedi sleeve option is not practical in our application because sleeve's installation has to deviat from SKF instructions.

Vladimir
SM # 345


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Wearing out bearing

Eric Freedman
 

The excess sleeve that hangs over the wearing out bearing can easily be removed with a dremel tool. Takes a minute.

Also I was able to get the two sleeves to butt up against each other , Unfortunately I forgot how.

Why not just buy a few new ones from Amel they are only 149 euros each?

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, December 03, 2016 5:12 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Wearing out bearing

 

 

Craig,

Thanks a lot for providing details. That is very important.

I do not have the sleeves yet. I am just thinking how can I install two sleeves on the bushing. The wear bushing is 28 mm long plus 2 mm chamfer. That is total 30 mm.

A sleeve with a flange is 17 mm long.  A sleeve without a flange is 14 mm. There will be a gap between the sleevs 1 mm or more. Totally two sleeves will cover cove 17+14+1=32 mm.

Therefore the second sleeve will cover the chamfer and overhang the wear bushing by 2 mm.

Is this correct??

 

On Dec 3, 2016 7:52 AM, "sangaris@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

 

Hi Vladimir,

It sounds like the issue is that you are trying to push on the edge of the sleeve, which is incorrect. You must only push on the flange, never on the edge of the sleeve. No special tools needed.

You install the first sleeve with the flange side down, that is, the flange goes on first and you do not remove that flange. Again, you are pushing on the flange, not the edge. You then cut a notch in the flange of the second sleeve and then put it on again flange first, sliding it down so it is very close to the first one. Again, you only push on the flanges, not the edge of the sleeve. Finally, you take a pliers and remove the flange of the second sleeve (not the first sleeve). There will be a small gap between the two sleeves after you remove the flange - not a problem as no seals rub there.

Hope that helps,

Cheers, Craig, SN#68 Sangaris

 



---In amelyachtowners@..., <sonsev52@...> wrote :

Hi Crag,

I have reviewed the instructions. Instructions are not applicable for our case.
Instructions recommend to push Speedi sleeves by the flange. It will not work for us. Because the  first sleeve should contact a bushing shoulder by it's edge after the flange is removed. That is additional 2.99 mm. Similar situation is with a second sleeve. It should contact the end of the first sleeve after the flange is removed. Both sleeves have to be pushed for 2.99 mm by force that is applied on a sleeve edge. The edges are very thin. You need a special tool that slides with minimum clerance on the outer edge of the sleeve with a step to smaller diameter that slids on the wear bushing. That tool has to be made. It will cost probubly $100.00 or $200.00. The edge of the sleeve should not be damaged during installation. If sleev's edge is damaged it can cut a seal during installation.
Perhaps Speedi sleeve option is not practical in our application because sleeve's installation has to deviat from SKF instructions.

Vladimir
SM # 345


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Changing companionway veneer.

Eric Freedman
 

There is no need to remove the tracks. The job can be done with the slider in place. I have photos if you wish.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, December 03, 2016 12:52 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Changing companionway veneer.

 

 

I remember to have read here some time ago of a way to remove the slider without removing the dodger. Somehow it seems to be possible to open the tracks and get the slider out. 

 

Cannot remember details, though, but maybe the search function here may help.

 

Michael, SY Sioned, Maramu #148


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Changing companionway veneer.

Eric Freedman
 

James,

Please contact me before you do the job there are a few tricks that you must do to get a perfect job.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Friday, December 02, 2016 11:13 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Changing companionway veneer.

 

 

Eric,

 

   Many thanks for sending the photos.  Not having to remove the hardtop will save me a lot of time.

 

Best,

 

James Alton

SV Sueno,  Maramu #220

Arbatax, Italy

 

On Dec 2, 2016, at 10:07 PM, 'sailormon' kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

 

HI Alex and James.

I have just sent you photos of how to replace the veneer on the companionway without removing the dodger.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...] 
Sent: Friday, December 02, 2016 8:22 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Changing companionway veneer.

 

  

Eric,

 

   That is an interesting and creative solution to replace part of the veneer, thanks for sharing.  While the idea of having the slider on the bench to work on sounds appealing, your method could sure save me a lot of time over removal of the hardtop that could be delegated to other more important projects.  No rush but when you have the time to send me the photos, it would be great to see.

 

Best,

 

James Alton  Lokiyawl2 at aol.com

SV Sueno,  Maramu #220

Arbatax,  Italy

 

On Dec 1, 2016, at 10:50 PM, 'sailormon' kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

 

James,

You do not have to remove the sliding companionway or the hard dodger to replace the veneer.

If you send me your email I will send you photos of how I did mine.

Basically you remove the stop at the bottom of the companionway door . Then the door will slide all the way up to the dodger.

You can then use a router to remove the veneer and put new veneer on. Of course what is in the track cannot be changed, but you can’t see it. 

Mine looks beautiful after 5 or 6 years.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...] 
Sent: Thursday, December 01, 2016 3:12 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Maramu cockpit canopy

 

  

Eric,

 

   The exterior teak veneer has delaminated and I want to replace or reface the panel.   I would also like to improve the exterior seal during this project.  

 

Best,

 

James Alton

SV Sueno,  Maramu #220

Arbatax,  Italy

 

On Dec 1, 2016, at 3:46 PM, 'sailormon' kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

 

James,

Why are you removing the companionway slider?

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:a melyachtowners@...] 
Sent: Wednesday, November 30, 2016 10:31 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Maramu cockpit canopy

 

  

 

 

 

 

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Wearing out bearing

VLADIMIR SONSEV
 

Craig,

Thanks a lot for providing details. That is very important.

I do not have the sleeves yet. I am just thinking how can I install two sleeves on the bushing. The wear bushing is 28 mm long plus 2 mm chamfer. That is total 30 mm.

A sleeve with a flange is 17 mm long.  A sleeve without a flange is 14 mm. There will be a gap between the sleevs 1 mm or more. Totally two sleeves will cover cove 17+14+1=32 mm.

Therefore the second sleeve will cover the chamfer and overhang the wear bushing by 2 mm.

Is this correct??


On Dec 3, 2016 7:52 AM, "sangaris@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 


Hi Vladimir,
It sounds like the issue is that you are trying to push on the edge of the sleeve, which is incorrect. You must only push on the flange, never on the edge of the sleeve. No special tools needed.
You install the first sleeve with the flange side down, that is, the flange goes on first and you do not remove that flange. Again, you are pushing on the flange, not the edge. You then cut a notch in the flange of the second sleeve and then put it on again flange first, sliding it down so it is very close to the first one. Again, you only push on the flanges, not the edge of the sleeve. Finally, you take a pliers and remove the flange of the second sleeve (not the first sleeve). There will be a small gap between the two sleeves after you remove the flange - not a problem as no seals rub there.
Hope that helps,
Cheers, Craig, SN#68 Sangaris



---In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, wrote :

Hi Crag,

I have reviewed the instructions. Instructions are not applicable for our case.
Instructions recommend to push Speedi sleeves by the flange. It will not work for us. Because the  first sleeve should contact a bushing shoulder by it's edge after the flange is removed. That is additional 2.99 mm. Similar situation is with a second sleeve. It should contact the end of the first sleeve after the flange is removed. Both sleeves have to be pushed for 2.99 mm by force that is applied on a sleeve edge. The edges are very thin. You need a special tool that slides with minimum clerance on the outer edge of the sleeve with a step to smaller diameter that slids on the wear bushing. That tool has to be made. It will cost probubly $100.00 or $200.00. The edge of the sleeve should not be damaged during installation. If sleev's edge is damaged it can cut a seal during installation.
Perhaps Speedi sleeve option is not practical in our application because sleeve's installation has to deviat from SKF instructions.

Vladimir
SM # 345


Re: Shaft alternator amel maramu

sbmesasailor
 

I'm not surprised that you could not find this exact alternator in the US.  I had the same issue but I was able to have a local alternator shop review the specifications of the alternator I needed and have one made to those specifications.  You might want to research that possibility.

Dennis Johns
s/v Libertad


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Strange Battery charging…

karkauai
 

Hi again Alex,
I just installed a new Victron Skylla-i 24v 80A (1+1) charger.  It has an automatic equalization OR  manual equalization mode that can be set for your batteries' requirements.
I only equalize in the manual mode because of the high voltages used.  I want all 24v equipment off while the voltages are high.

I kept my old charger as a backup.
Kent
SM243
Kristy



Quick B3 WaterHeater "Zinc"

karkauai
 

Thanks Peregrinus,
I'm looking for the "zincs", too.  So far no luck but waiting to hear from QuickUSA.
Kent
SM243
Kristy


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] boxtron replacement

JEFFREY KRAUS
 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] boxtron replacement

JEFFREY KRAUS
 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] boxtron replacement

luvkante
 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] boxtron replacement

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Jeff,

I cannot answer all of your questions regarding the Bamar electric furler, but 2 wires would work fine if the relay and solenoids reversed polarity to reverse the motor. I suspect that is how it was wired.

If you have a Raymarine autopilot, the electric drive motors only have 2 wires for the motor. The autopilot reverses polarity to reverse direction.

Good luck!

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail


On Dec 3, 2016 9:00 AM, "jmkraus@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

I recently swapped out my headsail boxtron unit with my staysail boxtron unit. I am replacing the staysail boxtron unit with the new boxtron e14s unit. Besides the conversion of the +/- power cables to and from the unit (from power, and to the furler motor) to new clip on connections, which is a straight forward job, there is one issue that presents itself. The old boxtron had 2 wires coming from the switch at the helm. I assume that there was an internal ground in the boxtron unit that allowed the switches to share a common ground. The new boxtron unit shows 3 wires, coming from the switches, in/out/and a common ground.

I have spoken to Paul (Bamar USA). He explained where the 2 switch wires from the old unit went, but the common ground wire shown on the wiring plan for the new unit wasn't identified. Our conversation via email left off with me needing to look at the switches in the cockpit, and revisiting the wiring after that.

If anyone has done this switch from the boxtron to the boxtron e14s? Any insight would be appreciated.

One side note:

In my conversation with Paul,( who was very helpful and forthcoming), he brought up the issue of an overheat sensor on the boxtron unit.

Apparently, the furlers that I have installed aboard do not have an overheat sensor. This, I assume would send a signal to the boxtron to shut off the motor when overloaded during use, avoiding damage to the furler. The next generation has that feature built in.


Jeff Spirit 54 #14

 





Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Wearing out bearing

Craig Briggs
 

Hi again, Vladimir,
I wrote my first post before I read your second post. It definitely sounds like you have removed the flange first and then tried to install the sleeve. You must leave the flanges on and use the supplied tool to push on them (or a correctly sized pipe if you need to push it on further). If you want to remove a flange, which you will on the second sleeve, you only cut a small notch in the flange before installing - do not take the flange off. Then you install it by pushing on the flange and after it is in place you take off the flange.
Cheers, 
Craig


---In amelyachtowners@..., <sangaris@...> wrote :


Hi Vladimir,
It sounds like the issue is that you are trying to push on the edge of the sleeve, which is incorrect. You must only push on the flange, never on the edge of the sleeve. No special tools needed.
You install the first sleeve with the flange side down, that is, the flange goes on first and you do not remove that flange. Again, you are pushing on the flange, not the edge. You then cut a notch in the flange of the second sleeve and then put it on again flange first, sliding it down so it is very close to the first one. Again, you only push on the flanges, not the edge of the sleeve. Finally, you take a pliers and remove the flange of the second sleeve (not the first sleeve). There will be a small gap between the two sleeves after you remove the flange - not a problem as no seals rub there.
Hope that helps,
Cheers, Craig, SN#68 Sangaris



---In amelyachtowners@..., <sonsev52@...> wrote :

Hi Crag,

I have reviewed the instructions. Instructions are not applicable for our case.
Instructions recommend to push Speedi sleeves by the flange. It will not work for us. Because the  first sleeve should contact a bushing shoulder by it's edge after the flange is removed. That is additional 2.99 mm. Similar situation is with a second sleeve. It should contact the end of the first sleeve after the flange is removed. Both sleeves have to be pushed for 2.99 mm by force that is applied on a sleeve edge. The edges are very thin. You need a special tool that slides with minimum clerance on the outer edge of the sleeve with a step to smaller diameter that slids on the wear bushing. That tool has to be made. It will cost probubly $100.00 or $200.00. The edge of the sleeve should not be damaged during installation. If sleev's edge is damaged it can cut a seal during installation.
Perhaps Speedi sleeve option is not practical in our application because sleeve's installation has to deviat from SKF instructions.

Vladimir
SM # 345