Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Wearing out bearing

Craig Briggs
 

Hi Bill,
Interesting reply... just out of curiosity have you been seeing water intrusion with your every-two-years changing schedule? I'd expect it's more of a function of how many engine hours rather than just time in the water - what's your experience in that regard? I've been getting roughly 900 hours between lip seal changes, that is, about 300 hours per year for 3 years. I haven't seen Amel's recommendation, but is it every two years regardless of engine hours? If so, that seems odd. I wonder why they recommend time and not hours, or a combination. Seal changes with industrial machinery are normally specified by hours and/or visual inspection.

And, on that subject, is there a schedule for the "C" drive upper lip seal? I changed mine only when it started to leak at about 6000 hours (some 20 years). Of course, there is no soft metal wearing-out-bearing there, so you'd expect a long life.  When did you change yours (or have you)?

Regarding bottom paint, my experience for many years in the Med was that it was totally effective for three years, so I choose not to incur the expense of a haul/paint job just because it may be "recommended". Seems like a bit of a self-serving recommendation on the part of the paint company. Then again, I do go to the extra effort of diving on the bottom a couple of times a season to clean it and that may be the difference from your experience. I wonder why your paint company recommends time and not paint condition since bottom paint longevity varies considerably in different regions and boat usage. Then again, your philosophy may co-opt that in that you never want to work on worn out bottom paint. Plus your cruising kitty may be a fatter cat than mine!
Cheers, Craig, SN#68 Sangaris


---In amelyachtowners@..., <yahoogroups@...> wrote :

Craig,

I am changing the wear bushing, seals, and C Drive oil every two years because that is what is recommended by Amel. Also, I renew antifouling with Micron66 every two years because that is what is recommended. I do all these jobs and others every two years when we haul BeBe #387.

It has been my goal since owning BeBe to never have to work on something that is broken or worn out. My goal is to do the scheduled maintenance when it is due. It has worked for me in almost all things on BeBe.

This is what I do. I completely respect your opinion and the opinion of others. I offered my opinion and what I do and asked I straightforward question about Speedi Sleeves because I do not get the benefit, and, of course because I am the resident advocate of "The Amel Way."

Best,

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail



Re: boxtron replacement

Bob Hodgins <bobh@...>
 

Jeff,
Yes, the 87a terminal is to use the relay in a normally closed manner, you want to leave that empty and use terminals 87 and 30 to give you a normally open circuit that is closed when activated.
Yes, the relays are necessary to avoid the need to change wiring at the helm and running new wire to the bow locker. To prove my theory on your boat, use your volt meter and pick up the negative anywhere up front in the Boxtron, and read the voltage on each of the original wires coming from the helm. When the switch is activated in each position you should see +24 volts on the corresponding wire. You do not want to apply that voltage to the terminals 4, 5, or 6 in the e14s or you will damage it. To test the other end of the circuit, hook up the e14s with power in and power out. Nothing is happening, but then use a jumper wire (no power) to connect 4 to 5, you will see it turn one direction. Then jump 5 to 6, you will see it run the other way. This is clear on the wiring diagram on the cover of the e14s.
On your note about the switches that activate in the full up/down position, I think you are referring to limit switches, the little blue plastic push button switches. Yes, I have purchased them from RS Component in the UK. Their web site is: http://www.rs-export.com/ and their part number is 223868. Yes, these are the exact same manufacturer that Amel buys from, but RS has them in stock and will ship right away. Amel buys them and solders the wires on (usually on the correct positions).
Bob


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Watermaker

Bob Grey
 

It's the End caps I had to replace all my end caps, cause they split around the bobbin holes. 


Bob Grey
Renaissance 3
Amel 55 #25


Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPad

On Friday, December 2, 2016, 21:10, amelliahona

 

Hi Duane:


As with all things plumbing trial and error is the rule.  With a new bobbin and new O-rings that leaves only some sort of damage or contamination of the O-rings, or the bore into which the bobbin fits or your suspected alignment problem.  

How much leakage did you have?  Drops or a gusher?   A seep or drops.  Did you inspect the bore for damage or contamination prior to re-assembly?  Did you lube your O-rings with something to make sure they didn't twist or become deformed while installing them on the bobbin or while inserting the bobbin in its bores?

Just some thoughts. 

Hope you are able to remedy the situation. 

Sincerely, 

Gary S. Silver  s/v Liahona  Amel SM #335  with 160 l/hr Dessalator water maker with re-engineered inline continuous EC (electrical conductivity aka salinity) monitor with alarm and manual control switch for the save/discard solenoid.  

Dessalator took a rather simple system and totally screwed it up by attempting to automate it and then not monitoring their vendors to assure they were providing the proper circuity to do what was promised.  In case some on this forum aren't aware, the Dessalator water makers of my vintage of boat were installed with sham good/bad water sensors and sham circuity  for monitoring water quality.  New owners be aware of this and make certain your system has appropriate water quality measuring capability.


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Thank you!!!!

karkauai
 

Congrats, Paul!!  Hope we get to meet some time over a beer/wine/rum.

Happy sailing!
Kent
Kristy
SM243


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Thank you!!!!

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Congratulations Paul,

Looks like you have one of the very last SM2K !
Hope we meet!

Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Harbor View Marina, Tortola, BVI





--------------------------------------------

On Sun, 12/4/16, pstas2003 <no_reply@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Thank you!!!!
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Sunday, December 4, 2016, 9:39 AM


 









Good morning to all.

At the suggestion of one of the members, I
joined this group back in June or July and posted that I was
in the market for an Amel SM.

Shortly thereafter, I was notified of a number
of boats that were for sale.  Within a couple days, I
traveled to Trinidad to look at one that I thought held the
most potential.

I looked
at the boat a number of times over a three day period and
made an offer.  We were able to agree on price, and decided
to survey and close in November.

The survey was done over a three day period
(Dave Huffman of Florida - words can’t describe his level
of knowledge of Amel’s and his professionalism - Highly
Recommended), and we closed on November 10.  

The former owners were
gracious enough to spend almost a month with me sailing and
going over maintenance procedures, spare parts inventory,
etc.  I can’t thank them enough... Unfortunately, my wife
was unable to take part in the whole process, but she was
able to join us all over the Thanksgiving Holiday and share
in the celebration.  God willing, we should be able to both
be aboard full time come June.

Our dreams are coming true and I just would
like to thank everyone here for their help, knowledge, and
willingness to share and give.  I have been reading the all
the postings since joining and am delighted and honored to
be a member of this group.

Thank you to all.  Especially to those who
have given so much of themselves to help us find and care
for our new home.

Paul
Stascavage
SM #466 - s/v Rita Kathryn
Rodney Bay Marina - Saint Lucia


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Wearing out bearing

Bill Kinney <greatketch@...>
 

Here is my best memory of how it went…

  1. On the used bearing, measure the spots where the lips of the seal rub on the bearing.
  2. Push the first sleeve on as far as possible with the tool provided.  The sleeve will need to go in further at this point.
  3. Use a piece of pipe (2 inch, schedule 80 is a good fit) to tap it in all the way.  The pipe will push the base of the flange right back to within less than a mm of the shoulder of the bearing.  My recollection is that he flange might distort a little as it comes up against the shoulder, but that’s not a problem.
  4. Remove the flange from the first sleeve as per SKF’s instructions. If is sits flush against the shoulder of the bearing you might not need to do this.
  5. Install the second sleeve using the tool provided. Tap in in until it just clears the chamfer. This is the critical dimension, not its location relative to the first sleeve.  If my memory serves, this can be done without using the pipe.
  6. Check to be sure the sleeves are properly situated relative the the locations you measured in Step 1, i.e., the lips should bear fully on the sleeves NOT on edges shoulders or gaps.
  7. Remove the flange from the second sleeve as per SKF’s instructions.

If the two sleeves overlap a little, or show a small gap it’s not a problem—the seals should not bear at that spot.

As always, when installing the seals, make sure they are well and fully lubricated.  Do this even if you are just checking the fit, you don’t want to scratch or nick the edge of the rubber lip.

Bill Kinney
SM #160, Harmonie
On the Hard, Fort Lauderdale, FL,
Splashing Wednesday, we hope!
“Ships and men rot in port."






On Dec 4, 2016, at 10:55, Vladimir Sonsev sonsev52@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


Bill,

Don't send a picture with Speed sleeve, just describe in details Speedi sleeve installation process for our application.

Vladimir
SM #345



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Wearing out bearing

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Craig,

I am changing the wear bushing, seals, and C Drive oil every two years because that is what is recommended by Amel. Also, I renew antifouling with Micron66 every two years because that is what is recommended. I do all these jobs and others every two years when we haul BeBe #387.

It has been my goal since owning BeBe to never have to work on something that is broken or worn out. My goal is to do the scheduled maintenance when it is due. It has worked for me in almost all things on BeBe.

This is what I do. I completely respect your opinion and the opinion of others. I offered my opinion and what I do and asked I straightforward question about Speedi Sleeves because I do not get the benefit, and, of course because I am the resident advocate of "The Amel Way."

Best,

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail


On Dec 4, 2016 11:32 AM, "sangaris@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi Bill,

I think we can safely assume you are changing the wearing-out-bearing every two years because they are, well, "wearing out" and allowing water intrusion, or, if not yet leaking you expect them to and you're doing preventive maintenance. How paradoxical that Amel refers to this as a "wearing-out-bearing" - I'd expect "forever-bearing" would be more Amel-ish!
Anyway, as we all discussed on this thread some years ago, Captain Henri made an unusual choice by not specifying a much harder material for the application, which was the engineering judgement of SKF's seal engineer who reviewed this for me and recommended a much harder material. 
Perhaps the captain assumed owners would replace it regularly as you have, and avoid a problem. I have always gone 3 or 4 seasons and not worried about the "chocolate" oil. The Speedi Sleeves do minimize water intrusion because the bearing is not wearing out, although, of course, the lip seals have a limited life.
Let's hope that the prototype you mention was an attempt to improve on the Captain's original choice and will become available to us.
Cheers, Craig SN#68 Sangaris


---In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, wrote :

Eric,

That is the VERY REASON that I have not tried Speedi Sleeves. I assume the reason for using the sleeves is to get longer life out of the wear bushing. Since I service the C Drive and Bow Thruster every two years when hauled out for antifouling, I cannot justify adding a Speedi Sleeve or two. If you add Speedi Sleeves because you want to  eliminate water intrusion, I suggest that you should review the service  procedure. When it's done correctly, there will not be intrusion.

Now, t hat said, Amel accidentally shipped what I believe is a test prototype of a wear bushing with chrome plating where the seals ride on the bushing. I have not been able to get the story behind this chrome plated wear bushing from Amel. The person who has this part is going to try it shortly, but it will probably be a year or two before he has any reportable results.

Does anyone in the Group have any inside information on this partially chrome plated wear bushing? Maybe he shouldn't try it?

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail


On Dec 3, 2016 6:59 PM, "'sailormon' kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
 

The excess sleeve that hangs over the wearing out bearing can easily be removed with a dremel tool. Takes a minute.

Also I was able to get the two sleeves to butt up against each other , Unfortunately I forgot how.

Why not just buy a few new ones from Amel they are only 149 euros each?

Fair Wi nds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups. com [mailto:amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups.com]
Sent:< /b> Saturday, December 03, 2016 5:12 PM


To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups. com
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Wearing out bearing

 

 

Craig,

Thanks a lot for providing details. That is very important.

I do not have the sleeves yet. I am just thinking how can I install two sleeves on the bushing. The wear bushing is 28 mm long plus 2 mm chamfer. That is total 30 mm.

A sleeve with a flange is 17 mm long.&nbsp ; A sleeve without a flange is 14 mm. There will be a gap between the sleevs 1 mm or more. Totally two sleeves will cover cove 17+14+1=32 mm.

Therefore the second sleeve will cover the chamfer and overhang the wear bushing by 2 mm.

Is this correct??

 

On Dec 3, 2016 7:52 AM, "sangaris@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups. com> wrote:

 

 

Hi Vladimir,

It sounds like the issue is that you are tr ying to push on the edge of the sleeve, which is incorrect. You must only push on the flange, never on the edge of the sleeve. No special tools needed.

You install the first sleeve with the flange side down, that is, the flange goes on first and you do not remove that flange. Again, you are pushing on the flange, not the edge. You then cut a notch in the flange of the second sleeve and then put it on again flange first, sliding it down so it is very close to the first one. Again, you only push on the flanges, not the edge of the sleeve. Finally, you take a pliers and remove the flange of the second sleeve (not the first sleeve). There will be a small gap between the two sleeves after you remove the flange - not a problem as no seals rub there.

Hope that helps,

Cheers, Craig, SN#68 S angaris

 



---In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups. com, <sonsev52@...> wrote :

Hi Crag,

I have reviewed the instructions. Instructions are not applicable for our case.
Instructions recommend to push Speedi sleeves by the flange. It will not work for us. Because the  first sleeve should contact a bushing shoulder by it's edge after the flange is removed. That is additional 2.99 mm. Similar situation is with a second sleeve. It s hould contact the end of the first sleeve after the flange is removed. Both sleeves have to be pushed for 2.99 mm by force that is applied on a sleeve edge. The edges are very thin. You need a special tool that slides with minimum clerance on the outer edge of the sleeve with a step to smaller diameter that slids on the wear bushing. That tool has to be made. It will cost probubly $100.00 or $200.00. The edge of the sleeve should not be damaged during installation. If sleev's edge is damaged it can cut a seal during installation.

Perhaps Speedi sleeve option is not practical in our application because sleeve's installation has to deviat from SKF instructions.

Vladimir
SM # 345



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Thank you!!!!

Mark Erdos
 

Hi Paul,

 

Congratulations on Rita Kathryn.

 

We look to bumping into you later this year somewhere in the Caribbean Islands.

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Super Maramu 2000

Hull #275

www.creampuff.us

Currently cruising:  Still in Tampa Bay

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of pstas2003
Sent: Sunday, December 04, 2016 10:40 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Thank you!!!!

 

 

Good morning to all.

At the suggestion of one of the members, I joined this group back in June or July and posted that I was in the market for an Amel SM.

Shortly thereafter, I was notified of a number of boats that were for sale.  Within a couple days, I traveled to Trinidad to look at one that I thought held the most potential.

I looked at the boat a number of times over a three day period and made an offer.  We were able to agree on price, and decided to survey and close in November.

The survey was done over a three day period (Dave Huffman of Florida - words can’t describe his level of knowledge of Amel’s and his professionalism - Highly Recommended), and we closed on November 10.  

The former owners were gracious enough to spend almost a month with me sailing and going over maintenance procedures, spare parts inventory, etc.  I can’t thank them enough... Unfortunately, my wife was unable to take part in the whole process, but she was able to join us all over the Thanksgiving Holiday and share in the celebration.  God willing, we should be able to both be aboard full time come June.

Our dreams are coming true and I just would like to thank everyone here for their help, knowledge, and willingness to share and give.  I have been reading the all the postings since joining and am delighted and honored to be a member of this group.

Thank you to all.  Especially to those who have given so much of themselves to help us find and care for our new home.

Paul Stascavage
SM #466 - s/v Rita Kathryn
Rodney Bay Marina - Saint Lucia

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Wearing out bearing

VLADIMIR SONSEV
 

Bill,

Don't send a picture with Speed sleeve, just describe in details Speedi sleeve installation process for our application.

Vladimir
SM #345

Vladimir
202 258 1916

On Dec 4, 2016 10:38, "Bill Kinney greatketch@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Bill R,


I don’t know about the Amel “chrome plated” bushing, but I can suggest that--in general--chrome plating is not a great solution for hardening a shaft under a lip seal.   Yes, it is hard and doesn’t wear.  And it LOOKS shiny and smooth, but over time develops tiny cracks that make its surface rough at a micro-level that causes the rubber lip of the seals to wear faster. So the seals don’t wear the shaft, the shaft wears the seals.  Might be better than plain bronze, but not a perfect choice.

I wonder why this part is made of bronze? It is a marginal material as far as hardness under a lip seal.  Ok, it’s not really marginal, it is quite a bit softer than seal maker specifications. Not about to change it, but I do wonder what the reasoning was?

I don’t think anybody has suggested that sleeves should be added to a new bearing to eliminate water intrusion. You are absolutely right, that would NOT be a good use for them. If seals leak while following the recommended service interval with a new bearing, installation technique is suspect, and sleeves will NOT help.  

Sleeves CAN be used to rehabilitate a worn out wearing out bearing to get longer life from it.  That’s what they are made for, and thats what they are good at.

I do not believe they significantly change the service interval for the lower c-drive shaft seal. Based on Harmonie’s maintenance data even if the sleeves are not worn, the seals themselves need to be replaced at the recommended interval. 

They do go all the way on without cutting or machining. They should NOT be altered in any way.  I can post a picture of a sleeved bearing if people really don’t believe it.  Unfortunately I don’t have one that needs sleeving so can’t post the process, but I don’t remember any magic, just followed instructions.

All that said….this really is a minor deal.  It’s €150 for a new bearing.  It’s $70 for two speedi sleeves.  If anybody has ANY doubt whatsoever, just call Amel and get a new bearing and throw it away with the seals after 800 hours. We all know THAT works!

Bill Kinney
SM #160, Harmonie
On the Hard, Fort Lauderdale, FL
Splashing Wednesday….  we hope!
“Ships and men rot in port."






On Dec 4, 2016, at 06:36, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Eric,

That is the VERY REASON that I have not tried Speedi Sleeves. I assume the
reason for using the sleeves is to get longer life out of the wear bushing.
Since I service the C Drive and Bow Thruster every two years when hauled
out for antifouling, I cannot justify adding a Speedi Sleeve or two. If you
add Speedi Sleeves because you want to  eliminate water intrusion, I
suggest that you should review the service  procedure. When it's done
correctly, there will not be intrusion.

Now, that said, Amel accidentally shipped what I believe is a test
prototype of a wear bushing with chrome plating where the seals ride on the
bushing. I have not been able to get the story behind this chrome plated
wear bushing from Amel. The person who has this part is going to try it
shortly, but it will probably be a year or two before he has any reportable
results.

Does anyone in the Group have any inside information on this partially
chrome plated wear bushing? Maybe he shouldn't try it?

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail

On Dec 3, 2016 6:59 PM, "'sailormon' kimberlite@...
[amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:



*The excess sleeve that hangs over the wearing out bearing can easily be
removed with a dremel tool. Takes a minute.*

*Also I was able to get the two sleeves to butt up against each other ,
Unfortunately I forgot how.*

*Why not just buy a few new ones from Amel they are only 149 euros each?*

*Fair Winds*

*Eric*

*Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376*





*From:* amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com [mailto:amelyachtowners@
yahoogroups.com]
*Sent:* Saturday, December 03, 2016 5:12 PM
*To:* amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
*Subject:* Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Wearing out bearing





Craig,

Thanks a lot for providing details. That is very important.

I do not have the sleeves yet. I am just thinking how can I install two
sleeves on the bushing. The wear bushing is 28 mm long plus 2 mm chamfer.
That is total 30 mm.

A sleeve with a flange is 17 mm long.&nbsp ; A sleeve without a flange is
14 mm. There will be a gap between the sleevs 1 mm or more. Totally two
sleeves will cover cove 17+14+1=32 mm.

Therefore the second sleeve will cover the chamfer and overhang the wear
bushing by 2 mm.

Is this correct??



On Dec 3, 2016 7:52 AM, "sangaris@... [amelyachtowners]" <
amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:





Hi Vladimir,

It sounds like the issue is that you are tr ying to push on the edge of
the sleeve, which is incorrect. You must only push on the flange, never on
the edge of the sleeve. No special tools needed.

You install the first sleeve with the flange side down, that is, the
flange goes on first and you do not remove that flange. Again, you are
pushing on the flange, not the edge. You then cut a notch in the flange of
the second sleeve and then put it on again flange first, sliding it down so
it is very close to the first one. Again, you only push on the flanges, not
the edge of the sleeve. Finally, you take a pliers and remove the flange of
the second sleeve (not the first sleeve). There will be a small gap between
the two sleeves after you remove the flange - not a problem as no seals rub
there.

Hope that helps,

Cheers, Craig, SN#68 S angaris





---In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, wrote :

Hi Crag,

I have reviewed the instructions. Instructions are not applicable for our
case.
Instructions recommend to push Speedi sleeves by the flange. It will not
work for us. Because the  first sleeve should contact a bushing shoulder by
it's edge after the flange is removed. That is additional 2.99 mm. Similar
situation is with a second sleeve. It should contact the end of the first
sleeve after the flange is removed. Both sleeves have to be pushed for 2.99
mm by force that is applied on a sleeve edge. The edges are very thin. You
need a special tool that slides with minimum clerance on the outer edge of
the sleeve with a step to smaller diameter that slids on the wear bushing.
That tool has to be made. It will cost probubly $100.00 or $200.00. The
edge of the sleeve should not be damaged during installation. If sleev's
edge is damaged it can cut a seal during installation.
Perhaps Speedi sleeve option is not practical in our application because
sleeve's installation has to deviat from SKF instructions.

Vladimir
SM # 345





Thank you!!!!

pstas2003 <no_reply@...>
 

Good morning to all.

At the suggestion of one of the members, I joined this group back in June or July and posted that I was in the market for an Amel SM.

Shortly thereafter, I was notified of a number of boats that were for sale.  Within a couple days, I traveled to Trinidad to look at one that I thought held the most potential.

I looked at the boat a number of times over a three day period and made an offer.  We were able to agree on price, and decided to survey and close in November.

The survey was done over a three day period (Dave Huffman of Florida - words can’t describe his level of knowledge of Amel’s and his professionalism - Highly Recommended), and we closed on November 10.  

The former owners were gracious enough to spend almost a month with me sailing and going over maintenance procedures, spare parts inventory, etc.  I can’t thank them enough... Unfortunately, my wife was unable to take part in the whole process, but she was able to join us all over the Thanksgiving Holiday and share in the celebration.  God willing, we should be able to both be aboard full time come June.

Our dreams are coming true and I just would like to thank everyone here for their help, knowledge, and willingness to share and give.  I have been reading the all the postings since joining and am delighted and honored to be a member of this group.

Thank you to all.  Especially to those who have given so much of themselves to help us find and care for our new home.

Paul Stascavage
SM #466 - s/v Rita Kathryn
Rodney Bay Marina - Saint Lucia



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Wearing out bearing

Bill Kinney <greatketch@...>
 

Bill R,

I don’t know about the Amel “chrome plated” bushing, but I can suggest that--in general--chrome plating is not a great solution for hardening a shaft under a lip seal.   Yes, it is hard and doesn’t wear.  And it LOOKS shiny and smooth, but over time develops tiny cracks that make its surface rough at a micro-level that causes the rubber lip of the seals to wear faster. So the seals don’t wear the shaft, the shaft wears the seals.  Might be better than plain bronze, but not a perfect choice.

I wonder why this part is made of bronze? It is a marginal material as far as hardness under a lip seal.  Ok, it’s not really marginal, it is quite a bit softer than seal maker specifications. Not about to change it, but I do wonder what the reasoning was?

I don’t think anybody has suggested that sleeves should be added to a new bearing to eliminate water intrusion. You are absolutely right, that would NOT be a good use for them. If seals leak while following the recommended service interval with a new bearing, installation technique is suspect, and sleeves will NOT help.  

Sleeves CAN be used to rehabilitate a worn out wearing out bearing to get longer life from it.  That’s what they are made for, and thats what they are good at.

I do not believe they significantly change the service interval for the lower c-drive shaft seal. Based on Harmonie’s maintenance data even if the sleeves are not worn, the seals themselves need to be replaced at the recommended interval. 

They do go all the way on without cutting or machining. They should NOT be altered in any way.  I can post a picture of a sleeved bearing if people really don’t believe it.  Unfortunately I don’t have one that needs sleeving so can’t post the process, but I don’t remember any magic, just followed instructions.

All that said….this really is a minor deal.  It’s €150 for a new bearing.  It’s $70 for two speedi sleeves.  If anybody has ANY doubt whatsoever, just call Amel and get a new bearing and throw it away with the seals after 800 hours. We all know THAT works!

Bill Kinney
SM #160, Harmonie
On the Hard, Fort Lauderdale, FL
Splashing Wednesday….  we hope!
“Ships and men rot in port."






On Dec 4, 2016, at 06:36, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Eric,

That is the VERY REASON that I have not tried Speedi Sleeves. I assume the
reason for using the sleeves is to get longer life out of the wear bushing.
Since I service the C Drive and Bow Thruster every two years when hauled
out for antifouling, I cannot justify adding a Speedi Sleeve or two. If you
add Speedi Sleeves because you want to  eliminate water intrusion, I
suggest that you should review the service  procedure. When it's done
correctly, there will not be intrusion.

Now, that said, Amel accidentally shipped what I believe is a test
prototype of a wear bushing with chrome plating where the seals ride on the
bushing. I have not been able to get the story behind this chrome plated
wear bushing from Amel. The person who has this part is going to try it
shortly, but it will probably be a year or two before he has any reportable
results.

Does anyone in the Group have any inside information on this partially
chrome plated wear bushing? Maybe he shouldn't try it?

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail

On Dec 3, 2016 6:59 PM, "'sailormon' kimberlite@...
[amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:



*The excess sleeve that hangs over the wearing out bearing can easily be
removed with a dremel tool. Takes a minute.*

*Also I was able to get the two sleeves to butt up against each other ,
Unfortunately I forgot how.*

*Why not just buy a few new ones from Amel they are only 149 euros each?*

*Fair Winds*

*Eric*

*Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376*





*From:* amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@
yahoogroups.com]
*Sent:* Saturday, December 03, 2016 5:12 PM
*To:* amelyachtowners@...
*Subject:* Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Wearing out bearing





Craig,

Thanks a lot for providing details. That is very important.

I do not have the sleeves yet. I am just thinking how can I install two
sleeves on the bushing. The wear bushing is 28 mm long plus 2 mm chamfer.
That is total 30 mm.

A sleeve with a flange is 17 mm long.&nbsp ; A sleeve without a flange is
14 mm. There will be a gap between the sleevs 1 mm or more. Totally two
sleeves will cover cove 17+14+1=32 mm.

Therefore the second sleeve will cover the chamfer and overhang the wear
bushing by 2 mm.

Is this correct??



On Dec 3, 2016 7:52 AM, "sangaris@... [amelyachtowners]" <
amelyachtowners@...> wrote:





Hi Vladimir,

It sounds like the issue is that you are tr ying to push on the edge of
the sleeve, which is incorrect. You must only push on the flange, never on
the edge of the sleeve. No special tools needed.

You install the first sleeve with the flange side down, that is, the
flange goes on first and you do not remove that flange. Again, you are
pushing on the flange, not the edge. You then cut a notch in the flange of
the second sleeve and then put it on again flange first, sliding it down so
it is very close to the first one. Again, you only push on the flanges, not
the edge of the sleeve. Finally, you take a pliers and remove the flange of
the second sleeve (not the first sleeve). There will be a small gap between
the two sleeves after you remove the flange - not a problem as no seals rub
there.

Hope that helps,

Cheers, Craig, SN#68 S angaris





---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote :

Hi Crag,

I have reviewed the instructions. Instructions are not applicable for our
case.
Instructions recommend to push Speedi sleeves by the flange. It will not
work for us. Because the  first sleeve should contact a bushing shoulder by
it's edge after the flange is removed. That is additional 2.99 mm. Similar
situation is with a second sleeve. It should contact the end of the first
sleeve after the flange is removed. Both sleeves have to be pushed for 2.99
mm by force that is applied on a sleeve edge. The edges are very thin. You
need a special tool that slides with minimum clerance on the outer edge of
the sleeve with a step to smaller diameter that slids on the wear bushing.
That tool has to be made. It will cost probubly $100.00 or $200.00. The
edge of the sleeve should not be damaged during installation. If sleev's
edge is damaged it can cut a seal during installation.
Perhaps Speedi sleeve option is not practical in our application because
sleeve's installation has to deviat from SKF instructions.

Vladimir
SM # 345





Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Wearing out bearing

Craig Briggs
 

Hi Bill,
I think we can safely assume you are changing the wearing-out-bearing every two years because they are, well, "wearing out" and allowing water intrusion, or, if not yet leaking you expect them to and you're doing preventive maintenance. How paradoxical that Amel refers to this as a "wearing-out-bearing" - I'd expect "forever-bearing" would be more Amel-ish!
Anyway, as we all discussed on this thread some years ago, Captain Henri made an unusual choice by not specifying a much harder material for the application, which was the engineering judgement of SKF's seal engineer who reviewed this for me and recommended a much harder material. 
Perhaps the captain assumed owners would replace it regularly as you have, and avoid a problem. I have always gone 3 or 4 seasons and not worried about the "chocolate" oil. The Speedi Sleeves do minimize water intrusion because the bearing is not wearing out, although, of course, the lip seals have a limited life.
Let's hope that the prototype you mention was an attempt to improve on the Captain's original choice and will become available to us.
Cheers, Craig SN#68 Sangaris


---In amelyachtowners@..., <yahoogroups@...> wrote :

Eric,

That is the VERY REASON that I have not tried Speedi Sleeves. I assume the reason for using the sleeves is to get longer life out of the wear bushing. Since I service the C Drive and Bow Thruster every two years when hauled out for antifouling, I cannot justify adding a Speedi Sleeve or two. If you add Speedi Sleeves because you want to  eliminate water intrusion, I suggest that you should review the service  procedure. When it's done correctly, there will not be intrusion.

Now, that said, Amel accidentally shipped what I believe is a test prototype of a wear bushing with chrome plating where the seals ride on the bushing. I have not been able to get the story behind this chrome plated wear bushing from Amel. The person who has this part is going to try it shortly, but it will probably be a year or two before he has any reportable results.

Does anyone in the Group have any inside information on this partially chrome plated wear bushing? Maybe he shouldn't try it?

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail


On Dec 3, 2016 6:59 PM, "'sailormon' kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

The excess sleeve that hangs over the wearing out bearing can easily be removed with a dremel tool. Takes a minute.

Also I was able to get the two sleeves to butt up against each other , Unfortunately I forgot how.

Why not just buy a few new ones from Amel they are only 149 euros each?

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups. com [mailto:amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Saturday, December 03, 2016 5:12 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups. com
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Wearing out bearing

 

 

Craig,

Thanks a lot for providing details. That is very important.

I do not have the sleeves yet. I am just thinking how can I install two sleeves on the bushing. The wear bushing is 28 mm long plus 2 mm chamfer. That is total 30 mm.

A sleeve with a flange is 17 mm long.&nbsp ; A sleeve without a flange is 14 mm. There will be a gap between the sleevs 1 mm or more. Totally two sleeves will cover cove 17+14+1=32 mm.

Therefore the second sleeve will cover the chamfer and overhang the wear bushing by 2 mm.

Is this correct??

 

On Dec 3, 2016 7:52 AM, "sangaris@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups. com> wrote:

 

 

Hi Vladimir,

It sounds like the issue is that you are tr ying to push on the edge of the sleeve, which is incorrect. You must only push on the flange, never on the edge of the sleeve. No special tools needed.

You install the first sleeve with the flange side down, that is, the flange goes on first and you do not remove that flange. Again, you are pushing on the flange, not the edge. You then cut a notch in the flange of the second sleeve and then put it on again flange first, sliding it down so it is very close to the first one. Again, you only push on the flanges, not the edge of the sleeve. Finally, you take a pliers and remove the flange of the second sleeve (not the first sleeve). There will be a small gap between the two sleeves after you remove the flange - not a problem as no seals rub there.

Hope that helps,

Cheers, Craig, SN#68 S angaris

 



---In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups. com, <sonsev52@...> wrote :

Hi Crag,

I have reviewed the instructions. Instructions are not applicable for our case.
Instructions recommend to push Speedi sleeves by the flange. It will not work for us. Because the  first sleeve should contact a bushing shoulder by it's edge after the flange is removed. That is additional 2.99 mm. Similar situation is with a second sleeve. It should contact the end of the first sleeve after the flange is removed. Both sleeves have to be pushed for 2.99 mm by force that is applied on a sleeve edge. The edges are very thin. You need a special tool that slides with minimum clerance on the outer edge of the sleeve with a step to smaller diameter that slids on the wear bushing. That tool has to be made. It will cost probubly $100.00 or $200.00. The edge of the sleeve should not be damaged during installation. If sleev's edge is damaged it can cut a seal during installation.
Perhaps Speedi sleeve option is not practical in our application because sleeve's installation has to deviat from SKF instructions.

Vladimir
SM # 345


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Wearing out bearing

VLADIMIR SONSEV
 

Eric,

Cutting and polishing Speedi sleeves is not for a man with average skills. SKF will not recommend doing that. Sleeve's leading edge is critical for proper installation. If it is not cut and polished correctly it can damage the seals.

There are several other issues with our application of Speedi sleeves:

1. During wear bushing installation a seal has to slide through the area between two sleeves. It will have some gap. You have to be very careful during installation. You shuold not rotate bushing during installation and move it on ones. Do not put it on and off several times.

2. You have be totally sure that no sleeve is running next to the flange or between two sleeves.

Based on all above, I would not recommend Speedi sleeves to a man with average technical skills. Do not forget that you will not know that installation was bad untill you see a water in the oil. Whatever you do must be perfect with minimal chances for incorrect installation.

Bill,

Chrome plated and polished wear bushings will work several times longer. That is for sure better solution. But it will be expensive. Chrome plating is environmentally bad process.
I will discuss this with a plating place in Baltimore next week.

Vladimir
SM # 345 "LIFE IS GOOD"


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] solenoid & relay replacement

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Well said Bill!

Sincerely, Alexandre



--------------------------------------------

On Sun, 12/4/16, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@svbebe.com [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] solenoid & relay replacement
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Sunday, December 4, 2016, 7:41 AM


 









Just a little side remark.
I am not sure about other models, but I have
been very impressed with the robust quality of relays and
solenoids on the Super Maramu. The ones selected by Amel
cost as much as 10 times what you might find at an auto
supply store.
The quality of these Amel selected parts is
VERY important. A defective relay or solenoid can lock a
device ON when you least need it. Ask Gian whose bow
thruster locked ON burned itself  up and almost burned his
54 to the waterline. Save money on wax and polish if you
need to save money, but relays and solenoids...buy the very
best that you can find.
My sermon for this Sunday is now over...please
stand and salute Captain Amel.
Bill Rouse

BeBe Amel 53 #387

Sent from my tablet

+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail

Currently USVI










#yiv6930865105 #yiv6930865105 --
#yiv6930865105ygrp-mkp {
border:1px solid #d8d8d8;font-family:Arial;margin:10px
0;padding:0 10px;}

#yiv6930865105 #yiv6930865105ygrp-mkp hr {
border:1px solid #d8d8d8;}

#yiv6930865105 #yiv6930865105ygrp-mkp #yiv6930865105hd {
color:#628c2a;font-size:85%;font-weight:700;line-height:122%;margin:10px
0;}

#yiv6930865105 #yiv6930865105ygrp-mkp #yiv6930865105ads {
margin-bottom:10px;}

#yiv6930865105 #yiv6930865105ygrp-mkp .yiv6930865105ad {
padding:0 0;}

#yiv6930865105 #yiv6930865105ygrp-mkp .yiv6930865105ad p {
margin:0;}

#yiv6930865105 #yiv6930865105ygrp-mkp .yiv6930865105ad a {
color:#0000ff;text-decoration:none;}
#yiv6930865105 #yiv6930865105ygrp-sponsor
#yiv6930865105ygrp-lc {
font-family:Arial;}

#yiv6930865105 #yiv6930865105ygrp-sponsor
#yiv6930865105ygrp-lc #yiv6930865105hd {
margin:10px
0px;font-weight:700;font-size:78%;line-height:122%;}

#yiv6930865105 #yiv6930865105ygrp-sponsor
#yiv6930865105ygrp-lc .yiv6930865105ad {
margin-bottom:10px;padding:0 0;}

#yiv6930865105 #yiv6930865105actions {
font-family:Verdana;font-size:11px;padding:10px 0;}

#yiv6930865105 #yiv6930865105activity {
background-color:#e0ecee;float:left;font-family:Verdana;font-size:10px;padding:10px;}

#yiv6930865105 #yiv6930865105activity span {
font-weight:700;}

#yiv6930865105 #yiv6930865105activity span:first-child {
text-transform:uppercase;}

#yiv6930865105 #yiv6930865105activity span a {
color:#5085b6;text-decoration:none;}

#yiv6930865105 #yiv6930865105activity span span {
color:#ff7900;}

#yiv6930865105 #yiv6930865105activity span
.yiv6930865105underline {
text-decoration:underline;}

#yiv6930865105 .yiv6930865105attach {
clear:both;display:table;font-family:Arial;font-size:12px;padding:10px
0;width:400px;}

#yiv6930865105 .yiv6930865105attach div a {
text-decoration:none;}

#yiv6930865105 .yiv6930865105attach img {
border:none;padding-right:5px;}

#yiv6930865105 .yiv6930865105attach label {
display:block;margin-bottom:5px;}

#yiv6930865105 .yiv6930865105attach label a {
text-decoration:none;}

#yiv6930865105 blockquote {
margin:0 0 0 4px;}

#yiv6930865105 .yiv6930865105bold {
font-family:Arial;font-size:13px;font-weight:700;}

#yiv6930865105 .yiv6930865105bold a {
text-decoration:none;}

#yiv6930865105 dd.yiv6930865105last p a {
font-family:Verdana;font-weight:700;}

#yiv6930865105 dd.yiv6930865105last p span {
margin-right:10px;font-family:Verdana;font-weight:700;}

#yiv6930865105 dd.yiv6930865105last p
span.yiv6930865105yshortcuts {
margin-right:0;}

#yiv6930865105 div.yiv6930865105attach-table div div a {
text-decoration:none;}

#yiv6930865105 div.yiv6930865105attach-table {
width:400px;}

#yiv6930865105 div.yiv6930865105file-title a, #yiv6930865105
div.yiv6930865105file-title a:active, #yiv6930865105
div.yiv6930865105file-title a:hover, #yiv6930865105
div.yiv6930865105file-title a:visited {
text-decoration:none;}

#yiv6930865105 div.yiv6930865105photo-title a,
#yiv6930865105 div.yiv6930865105photo-title a:active,
#yiv6930865105 div.yiv6930865105photo-title a:hover,
#yiv6930865105 div.yiv6930865105photo-title a:visited {
text-decoration:none;}

#yiv6930865105 div#yiv6930865105ygrp-mlmsg
#yiv6930865105ygrp-msg p a span.yiv6930865105yshortcuts {
font-family:Verdana;font-size:10px;font-weight:normal;}

#yiv6930865105 .yiv6930865105green {
color:#628c2a;}

#yiv6930865105 .yiv6930865105MsoNormal {
margin:0 0 0 0;}

#yiv6930865105 o {
font-size:0;}

#yiv6930865105 #yiv6930865105photos div {
float:left;width:72px;}

#yiv6930865105 #yiv6930865105photos div div {
border:1px solid
#666666;height:62px;overflow:hidden;width:62px;}

#yiv6930865105 #yiv6930865105photos div label {
color:#666666;font-size:10px;overflow:hidden;text-align:center;white-space:nowrap;width:64px;}

#yiv6930865105 #yiv6930865105reco-category {
font-size:77%;}

#yiv6930865105 #yiv6930865105reco-desc {
font-size:77%;}

#yiv6930865105 .yiv6930865105replbq {
margin:4px;}

#yiv6930865105 #yiv6930865105ygrp-actbar div a:first-child {
margin-right:2px;padding-right:5px;}

#yiv6930865105 #yiv6930865105ygrp-mlmsg {
font-size:13px;font-family:Arial, helvetica, clean,
sans-serif;}

#yiv6930865105 #yiv6930865105ygrp-mlmsg table {
font-size:inherit;font:100%;}

#yiv6930865105 #yiv6930865105ygrp-mlmsg select,
#yiv6930865105 input, #yiv6930865105 textarea {
font:99% Arial, Helvetica, clean, sans-serif;}

#yiv6930865105 #yiv6930865105ygrp-mlmsg pre, #yiv6930865105
code {
font:115% monospace;}

#yiv6930865105 #yiv6930865105ygrp-mlmsg * {
line-height:1.22em;}

#yiv6930865105 #yiv6930865105ygrp-mlmsg #yiv6930865105logo {
padding-bottom:10px;}


#yiv6930865105 #yiv6930865105ygrp-msg p a {
font-family:Verdana;}

#yiv6930865105 #yiv6930865105ygrp-msg
p#yiv6930865105attach-count span {
color:#1E66AE;font-weight:700;}

#yiv6930865105 #yiv6930865105ygrp-reco
#yiv6930865105reco-head {
color:#ff7900;font-weight:700;}

#yiv6930865105 #yiv6930865105ygrp-reco {
margin-bottom:20px;padding:0px;}

#yiv6930865105 #yiv6930865105ygrp-sponsor #yiv6930865105ov
li a {
font-size:130%;text-decoration:none;}

#yiv6930865105 #yiv6930865105ygrp-sponsor #yiv6930865105ov
li {
font-size:77%;list-style-type:square;padding:6px 0;}

#yiv6930865105 #yiv6930865105ygrp-sponsor #yiv6930865105ov
ul {
margin:0;padding:0 0 0 8px;}

#yiv6930865105 #yiv6930865105ygrp-text {
font-family:Georgia;}

#yiv6930865105 #yiv6930865105ygrp-text p {
margin:0 0 1em 0;}

#yiv6930865105 #yiv6930865105ygrp-text tt {
font-size:120%;}

#yiv6930865105 #yiv6930865105ygrp-vital ul li:last-child {
border-right:none !important;
}
#yiv6930865105


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] solenoid & relay replacement

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Just a little side remark.

I am not sure about other models, but I have been very impressed with the robust quality of relays and solenoids on the Super Maramu. The ones selected by Amel cost as much as 10 times what you might find at an auto supply store.

The quality of these Amel selected parts is VERY important. A defective relay or solenoid can lock a device ON when you least need it. Ask Gian whose bow thruster locked ON burned itself  up and almost burned his 54 to the waterline. Save money on wax and polish if you need to save money, but relays and solenoids...buy the very best that you can find.

My sermon for this Sunday is now over...please stand and salute Captain Amel.

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail
Currently USVI


Re: boxtron replacement

luvkante
 

Jeffrey,

I see. I have constant trouble as well. Shuts off and starts beeping. But when I switch it on and off, it starts working again


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: boxtron replacement

JEFFREY KRAUS
 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Wearing out bearing

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Eric,

That is the VERY REASON that I have not tried Speedi Sleeves. I assume the reason for using the sleeves is to get longer life out of the wear bushing. Since I service the C Drive and Bow Thruster every two years when hauled out for antifouling, I cannot justify adding a Speedi Sleeve or two. If you add Speedi Sleeves because you want to  eliminate water intrusion, I suggest that you should review the service  procedure. When it's done correctly, there will not be intrusion.

Now, that said, Amel accidentally shipped what I believe is a test prototype of a wear bushing with chrome plating where the seals ride on the bushing. I have not been able to get the story behind this chrome plated wear bushing from Amel. The person who has this part is going to try it shortly, but it will probably be a year or two before he has any reportable results.

Does anyone in the Group have any inside information on this partially chrome plated wear bushing? Maybe he shouldn't try it?

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail


On Dec 3, 2016 6:59 PM, "'sailormon' kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

The excess sleeve that hangs over the wearing out bearing can easily be removed with a dremel tool. Takes a minute.

Also I was able to get the two sleeves to butt up against each other , Unfortunately I forgot how.

Why not just buy a few new ones from Amel they are only 149 euros each?

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com [mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Saturday, December 03, 2016 5:12 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Wearing out bearing

 

 

Craig,

Thanks a lot for providing details. That is very important.

I do not have the sleeves yet. I am just thinking how can I install two sleeves on the bushing. The wear bushing is 28 mm long plus 2 mm chamfer. That is total 30 mm.

A sleeve with a flange is 17 mm long.&nbsp ; A sleeve without a flange is 14 mm. There will be a gap between the sleevs 1 mm or more. Totally two sleeves will cover cove 17+14+1=32 mm.

Therefore the second sleeve will cover the chamfer and overhang the wear bushing by 2 mm.

Is this correct??

 

On Dec 3, 2016 7:52 AM, "sangaris@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

 

Hi Vladimir,

It sounds like the issue is that you are tr ying to push on the edge of the sleeve, which is incorrect. You must only push on the flange, never on the edge of the sleeve. No special tools needed.

You install the first sleeve with the flange side down, that is, the flange goes on first and you do not remove that flange. Again, you are pushing on the flange, not the edge. You then cut a notch in the flange of the second sleeve and then put it on again flange first, sliding it down so it is very close to the first one. Again, you only push on the flanges, not the edge of the sleeve. Finally, you take a pliers and remove the flange of the second sleeve (not the first sleeve). There will be a small gap between the two sleeves after you remove the flange - not a problem as no seals rub there.

Hope that helps,

Cheers, Craig, SN#68 S angaris

 



---In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, <sonsev52@...> wrote :

Hi Crag,

I have reviewed the instructions. Instructions are not applicable for our case.
Instructions recommend to push Speedi sleeves by the flange. It will not work for us. Because the  first sleeve should contact a bushing shoulder by it's edge after the flange is removed. That is additional 2.99 mm. Similar situation is with a second sleeve. It should contact the end of the first sleeve after the flange is removed. Both sleeves have to be pushed for 2.99 mm by force that is applied on a sleeve edge. The edges are very thin. You need a special tool that slides with minimum clerance on the outer edge of the sleeve with a step to smaller diameter that slids on the wear bushing. That tool has to be made. It will cost probubly $100.00 or $200.00. The edge of the sleeve should not be damaged during installation. If sleev's edge is damaged it can cut a seal during installation.
Perhaps Speedi sleeve option is not practical in our application because sleeve's installation has to deviat from SKF instructions.

Vladimir
SM # 345


Re: boxtron replacement

Bob Hodgins <bobh@...>
 

Jeff,
I have an answer for you, as I recently did exactly the same procedure. My 54 is #31, so likely very similar to yours. When my original boxtron failed, Paul was also helpful in replacing it with the newer e14s, but the same issue of 2 vs. 3 wires was the problem he could not answer. In the original configuration, when you activated the switch, it supplied 24v to the boxtron, and depending on which way the switch was switched, it would power right or left turns. The new e14S only requires to contact the ground with either of the other leads to activate the turns. It supplies the power internally, you only need to make the contact. I think the terminals were 4, 5, and 6 in the e14S, or maybe it was 5, 6, and 7. Either way you need to contact the middle one with either of the other to make it run in one direction or the other.
I had spare relays for the bow thruster up down circuit. They are little ice cube relays that are available in most any auto parts store for less than $10. A part number is 24V-03526. Google it to find them. I installed 2 of them right in the e14 box using the 24v from the original wires, one to each relay, to activate the relay, which closes the contacts to complete the circuit for the e14s.
Pick up a ground internally in the e14s, connect it to terminal 85 on each relay. Connect one of the original power wires to terminal 86 on each of the relays. In the e14s box, connect terminal 5 to terminal 30 on both relays, and connect terminal 4 to terminal 87 on one relay and terminal 6 to the other relay terminal 87. Easy install without having to change any wires from the helm to the bow.
Cheers,
Bob Hodgins
Gallivant
Amel 54 #31
currently in St. Thomas, USVI


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Changing companionway veneer.

James Alton
 

Eric,

   I will keep this in mind, thanks.  I have some higher priority projects on the to do list so it might be a while before I get to the slider.

Best,

James Alton
SV Sueno,  Maramu #220
Arbatax,  Italy

On Dec 3, 2016, at 6:25 PM, 'sailormon' kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


James,

Please contact me before you do the job there are a few tricks that you must do to get a perfect job.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376