Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Servicing The Outhaul Gearbox & Bearings

Eric Freedman
 

_____

From: sailamel [mailto:sailamel@optonline.net]
Sent: Monday, August 13, 2007 8:39 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: FW: [Amel Yacht Owners] Servicing The Outhaul Gearbox & Bearings



Hi,

I do not recall the thread size. It is metric. Stainless bolts are too soft
to use to drive out the shaft. this is a VERY simple project.

I don't think you can use penetrating oil.

I did not take the gearbox apart.

I do not know if there is a bearing below the winch, I guess not.

you will need some metric grommets if you remove the motor mounts.

I also wire brushed the gearbox primed it and used epoxy white to repaint.

Fair Winds,

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite



_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of amelliahona
Sent: Monday, August 13, 2007 6:14 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Servicing The Outhaul Gearbox & Bearings



Thanks for the clarification Eric.

I have updated and posted a third picture to the photo folder
related to Outhaul Service. If I understand correctly, the bolt
depicted on the bottom of the gearbox in photo number 3 is
the one you remove, then install a long steel bolt in its place to
drive the shaft vertically upwards. A couple of questions:

1. Do you know the bolt size (thread size)? I presume it is metric.

2. Is it possible to drip some penetrating oil down the shaft and
have it enter the keyway area to help loosen up the rust?

3. Have you dis-assembled the gearbox and overhauled the
internal items? If so can you describe your findings and that
process.

4. Is there a bearing pressed into the main boom beneath the
Anderson Winch?

Thanks again for your thoughts.

Gary


Re: Vertical Battens on SM main and mizzen

Miles Bidwell <mbidwell@...>
 

Graham,



Last month I took delivery of a set on new sails from Voiles Gateff in
Toulon, France. The sails do not have battens, but the improved boat
performance is remarkable. The sails are considerably larger than the
original Amel sails which were also made by Gateff. The new sails are made
of Hydra-net, a new woven spectra material that is replacing laminates.
(see the internet for more information on the material). The sails are all
tri-radial and the shapes are beautiful. As Gateff promised, the boat is
faster in light winds and tacks in a smaller angle.



The sails are not cheap, but the shear increased fun in sailing the boat
makes them worthwhile. I suggest looking into these sails when you do your
evaluation of alternatives.



Happy sailing,



Miles Bidwell

Aboard LADYBUG

SM 216


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Servicing The Outhaul Gearbox & Bearings

Richard Piller <richard03801@...>
 

Eric, your memory is correct. The biggest problem we
had is that the bolt in the top of the winch was
stripped and had to be tapped again. As there is no
load in the "up-down tenision" direction this should
not be and issue... Getting motor parts can be
depending on the year of the motor.
Richard SM 209


--- kimberlite <kimberlite@optonline.net> wrote:

Hi,

Let me explain and redefine some of my previous
comments.

The vertical shaft that turns the Anderson outhaul
winch is what I refer to
as the motor shaft.

If I remember correctly it is welded to the arm that
is on top of the
Anderson winch and attaches to the winch with the
one visible stainless
screw. This holds the top of the shaft in place. The
bottom of the shaft is
held in by a bolt on the other end of this shaft. In
the middle of the shaft
( not visible) is a key which locks into the motor
gearbox key way. It is
usually rusted in place. To remove the shaft,

Remove the screw on the Anderson winch ,

Remove the bolt on the other end of the shaft.

Insert a long steel ( not stainless) and drive it up
with a small sledge
hammer ( lump hammer).

As soon as the keyway clears the gearbox the shaft
comes out easily. When
re installing use an anti seize compound.

Fair winds

Eric sm 376 kimberlite







_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf
Of amelliahona
Sent: Sunday, August 12, 2007 1:41 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Servicing The Outhaul
Gearbox & Bearins



Eric on Kimberlite wrote:

"It is easy to remove the vertical shaft from the
outhaul.

1 Remove the screw from the arm that goes into the
Anderson winch on the
boom outhaul line.

2 Remove the nut and washers from the bottom of the
outhaul motor shaft.

3 The only thing that is now holding the shaft in
place is the rust on the
shaft and a key, which sits into a keyway in

the gearbox.

4 Use a very long STEEL, not stainless, bolt screw
it into the bottom of the
motor shaft.

5 Use a very heavy hammer and drive the shaft up and
out of the gearbox.

Fair Winds,

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite"

I have posted two photos to a new folder entitled
"Outhaul Service" for
parts reference.

Eric and others who have done this this service, (I
have not), I have a
couple of questions and would appreciate some
clarifications:

a. To access the shaft do you remove the bottom
panel of the gearbox?

b. In step 2 above you mention removing the screws
from the bottom of
the "motor shaft". Are you referring to the panel on
the bottom of the
gearbox housing that is held in place with 4 screws?

c. In step 4 above you mention the "motor shaft'.
The motor shaft is
horizontal is it not? Are you describing here
threading the bolt into the
vertical shaft that passes upward (vertically) to
the Anderson Winch?

d. What holds the shaft into the Anderson Winch
head? Is it pressed
in?

e. Is there a bearing pressed into the boom through
which the vertical
shaft passes? If so how difficult is it to remove?

f. What material/metal is the gearbox made of. The
paint is completly
flaking off of mine. Is it aluminum or some aluminum
aloy? Any
suggestions for re-priming/painting?

Thanks for some clarification as I anticipate doing
this service next time
I am on the boat.

Regards, Gary Silver
Amel SM2000 Hull # 335





[Non-text portions of this message have been
removed]




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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Servicing The Outhaul Gearbox & Bearings

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Thanks for the clarification Eric.

I have updated and posted a third picture to the photo folder
related to Outhaul Service. If I understand correctly, the bolt
depicted on the bottom of the gearbox in photo number 3 is
the one you remove, then install a long steel bolt in its place to
drive the shaft vertically upwards. A couple of questions:

1. Do you know the bolt size (thread size)? I presume it is metric.

2. Is it possible to drip some penetrating oil down the shaft and
have it enter the keyway area to help loosen up the rust?

3. Have you dis-assembled the gearbox and overhauled the
internal items? If so can you describe your findings and that
process.

4. Is there a bearing pressed into the main boom beneath the
Anderson Winch?

Thanks again for your thoughts.

Gary


Correction Servicing The Outhaul Gearbox & Bearings

Eric Freedman
 

Hi,

Let me explain and redefine some of my previous comments.

The vertical shaft that turns the Anderson outhaul winch is what I refer to
as the motor shaft.

If I remember correctly it is welded to the arm that is on top of the
Anderson winch and attaches to the winch with the one visible stainless
screw. This holds the top of the shaft in place. The bottom of the shaft is
held in by a bolt on the other end of this shaft. In the middle of the shaft
( not visible) is a key which locks into the motor gearbox key way. It is
usually rusted in place. To remove the shaft,

Remove the screw on the Anderson winch ,

Remove the bolt on the other end of the shaft.

Insert a long steel ( not stainless) bolt and drive it up with a small
sledge
hammer ( lump hammer).

As soon as the keyway clears the gearbox the shaft comes out easily. When
re installing use an anti seize compound.

Fair winds

Eric sm 376 kimberlite

_____

From: amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of amelliahona
Sent: Sunday, August 12, 2007 1:41 AM
To: amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Servicing The Outhaul Gearbox & Bearins

Eric on Kimberlite wrote:

"It is easy to remove the vertical shaft from the outhaul.

1 Remove the screw from the arm that goes into the Anderson winch on the
boom outhaul line.

2 Remove the nut and washers from the bottom of the outhaul motor shaft.

3 The only thing that is now holding the shaft in place is the rust on the
shaft and a key, which sits into a keyway in

the gearbox.

4 Use a very long STEEL, not stainless, bolt screw it into the bottom of the
motor shaft.

5 Use a very heavy hammer and drive the shaft up and out of the gearbox.

Fair Winds,

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite"

I have posted two photos to a new folder entitled "Outhaul Service" for
parts reference.

Eric and others who have done this this service, (I have not), I have a
couple of questions and would appreciate some clarifications:

a. To access the shaft do you remove the bottom panel of the gearbox?

b. In step 2 above you mention removing the screws from the bottom of
the "motor shaft". Are you referring to the panel on the bottom of the
gearbox housing that is held in place with 4 screws?

c. In step 4 above you mention the "motor shaft'. The motor shaft is
horizontal is it not? Are you describing here threading the bolt into the
vertical shaft that passes upward (vertically) to the Anderson Winch?

d. What holds the shaft into the Anderson Winch head? Is it pressed
in?

e. Is there a bearing pressed into the boom through which the vertical
shaft passes? If so how difficult is it to remove?

f. What material/metal is the gearbox made of. The paint is completly
flaking off of mine. Is it aluminum or some aluminum aloy? Any
suggestions for re-priming/painting?

Thanks for some clarification as I anticipate doing this service next time
I am on the boat.

Regards, Gary Silver
Amel SM2000 Hull # 335


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Servicing The Outhaul Gearbox & Bearings

Eric Freedman
 

Hi,

Let me explain and redefine some of my previous comments.

The vertical shaft that turns the Anderson outhaul winch is what I refer to
as the motor shaft.

If I remember correctly it is welded to the arm that is on top of the
Anderson winch and attaches to the winch with the one visible stainless
screw. This holds the top of the shaft in place. The bottom of the shaft is
held in by a bolt on the other end of this shaft. In the middle of the shaft
( not visible) is a key which locks into the motor gearbox key way. It is
usually rusted in place. To remove the shaft,

Remove the screw on the Anderson winch ,

Remove the bolt on the other end of the shaft.

Insert a long steel ( not stainless) and drive it up with a small sledge
hammer ( lump hammer).

As soon as the keyway clears the gearbox the shaft comes out easily. When
re installing use an anti seize compound.

Fair winds

Eric sm 376 kimberlite







_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of amelliahona
Sent: Sunday, August 12, 2007 1:41 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Servicing The Outhaul Gearbox & Bearins



Eric on Kimberlite wrote:

"It is easy to remove the vertical shaft from the outhaul.

1 Remove the screw from the arm that goes into the Anderson winch on the
boom outhaul line.

2 Remove the nut and washers from the bottom of the outhaul motor shaft.

3 The only thing that is now holding the shaft in place is the rust on the
shaft and a key, which sits into a keyway in

the gearbox.

4 Use a very long STEEL, not stainless, bolt screw it into the bottom of the
motor shaft.

5 Use a very heavy hammer and drive the shaft up and out of the gearbox.

Fair Winds,

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite"

I have posted two photos to a new folder entitled "Outhaul Service" for
parts reference.

Eric and others who have done this this service, (I have not), I have a
couple of questions and would appreciate some clarifications:

a. To access the shaft do you remove the bottom panel of the gearbox?

b. In step 2 above you mention removing the screws from the bottom of
the "motor shaft". Are you referring to the panel on the bottom of the
gearbox housing that is held in place with 4 screws?

c. In step 4 above you mention the "motor shaft'. The motor shaft is
horizontal is it not? Are you describing here threading the bolt into the
vertical shaft that passes upward (vertically) to the Anderson Winch?

d. What holds the shaft into the Anderson Winch head? Is it pressed
in?

e. Is there a bearing pressed into the boom through which the vertical
shaft passes? If so how difficult is it to remove?

f. What material/metal is the gearbox made of. The paint is completly
flaking off of mine. Is it aluminum or some aluminum aloy? Any
suggestions for re-priming/painting?

Thanks for some clarification as I anticipate doing this service next time
I am on the boat.

Regards, Gary Silver
Amel SM2000 Hull # 335


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Servicing The Outhaul Gearbox & Bearins

Richard Piller <richard03801@...>
 

We have also had the out haul motor fail due to a
brush welding itself to the housing. We could find no
24 volt brushes so we have ordered a new motor from a
shop here in NH. Once we install and test it we will
share the results. The price is about $450 with the
remachineing of the housing as the Leroy Somers motor
is no longer made?
Eric is right on about taking the motor off. As far
as paint goes we wire brushed the housing washed it
with white vinigar and applied deck paint to it. We
shall see.

best to all.
Richard SM 209
--- amelliahona <no_reply@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Eric on Kimberlite wrote:

"It is easy to remove the vertical shaft from the
outhaul.

1 Remove the screw from the arm that goes into the
Anderson winch on the
boom outhaul line.

2 Remove the nut and washers from the bottom of the
outhaul motor shaft.

3 The only thing that is now holding the shaft in
place is the rust on the
shaft and a key, which sits into a keyway in

the gearbox.

4 Use a very long STEEL, not stainless, bolt screw
it into the bottom of the
motor shaft.

5 Use a very heavy hammer and drive the shaft up and
out of the gearbox.

Fair Winds,

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite"

I have posted two photos to a new folder entitled
"Outhaul Service" for
parts reference.

Eric and others who have done this this service, (I
have not), I have a
couple of questions and would appreciate some
clarifications:

a. To access the shaft do you remove the bottom
panel of the gearbox?

b. In step 2 above you mention removing the screws
from the bottom of
the "motor shaft". Are you referring to the panel
on the bottom of the
gearbox housing that is held in place with 4 screws?

c. In step 4 above you mention the "motor shaft'.
The motor shaft is
horizontal is it not? Are you describing here
threading the bolt into the
vertical shaft that passes upward (vertically) to
the Anderson Winch?

d. What holds the shaft into the Anderson Winch
head? Is it pressed
in?

e. Is there a bearing pressed into the boom through
which the vertical
shaft passes? If so how difficult is it to remove?

f. What material/metal is the gearbox made of. The
paint is completly
flaking off of mine. Is it aluminum or some
aluminum aloy? Any
suggestions for re-priming/painting?

Thanks for some clarification as I anticipate doing
this service next time
I am on the boat.

Regards, Gary Silver
Amel SM2000 Hull # 335




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Servicing The Outhaul Gearbox & Bearings

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Eric on Kimberlite wrote:

"It is easy to remove the vertical shaft from the outhaul.

1 Remove the screw from the arm that goes into the Anderson winch on the
boom outhaul line.

2 Remove the nut and washers from the bottom of the outhaul motor shaft.

3 The only thing that is now holding the shaft in place is the rust on the
shaft and a key, which sits into a keyway in

the gearbox.

4 Use a very long STEEL, not stainless, bolt screw it into the bottom of the
motor shaft.

5 Use a very heavy hammer and drive the shaft up and out of the gearbox.

Fair Winds,

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite"

I have posted two photos to a new folder entitled "Outhaul Service" for
parts reference.

Eric and others who have done this this service, (I have not), I have a
couple of questions and would appreciate some clarifications:

a. To access the shaft do you remove the bottom panel of the gearbox?

b. In step 2 above you mention removing the screws from the bottom of
the "motor shaft". Are you referring to the panel on the bottom of the
gearbox housing that is held in place with 4 screws?

c. In step 4 above you mention the "motor shaft'. The motor shaft is
horizontal is it not? Are you describing here threading the bolt into the
vertical shaft that passes upward (vertically) to the Anderson Winch?

d. What holds the shaft into the Anderson Winch head? Is it pressed
in?

e. Is there a bearing pressed into the boom through which the vertical
shaft passes? If so how difficult is it to remove?

f. What material/metal is the gearbox made of. The paint is completly
flaking off of mine. Is it aluminum or some aluminum aloy? Any
suggestions for re-priming/painting?

Thanks for some clarification as I anticipate doing this service next time
I am on the boat.

Regards, Gary Silver
Amel SM2000 Hull # 335


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Electronics Needs

Eric Freedman
 

Hi,

The blue seas voltmeter and frequency meter is shown on kimberlites photos.

Also a photo of my muffler meltdown. I had a muffler shop make me a metal
one, but I still installed the Borel high temp exhaust alarm.

There is a high water alarm switch already mounted on the sole of my engine
room to the starboard of my a/c raw water pump. It was stock with the boat.

Fair Winds,

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of amelliahona
Sent: Wednesday, August 08, 2007 11:37 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Electronics Needs



Frank Newton
Boat # 321

RE: Electronics suggestions:

I would recommend installing a bilge pump run-on-alarm (alarms if the bilge
pump runs
for more than a programmed time limit, I use two minutes) and exhaust
temperature
alarms. Both are available from http://www.borelmfg
<http://www.borelmfg.com/index.html> .com/index.html ( www dot
borelmfg dot com).

I don't see the run on alarm on Borel's current web site, but if you call
them I am sure they
can provide it.

The temp sensors may save you from a meltdown of the water muffler or hose/
or both if
the injector nozel becomes blocked and the run on alarm will give early
warning that the
bilge is filling with water, (sooner than after the bilge pump has been
running for an hour
trying to keep up), and finally falls behind.

Additional suggestions are: Electronic salinity sensor for the water maker
as the
Dessalator salinity sensor DOES NOT WORK. and the Blue Sea's Digital
Multimeter on the
220 volt panel so you always know your power consumption, frequency, and
voltage.

Pictures of both of the last items are in the photo section under watermaker
as I recall.

Regards, Gary


Re: {Disarmed} [Amel Yacht Owners] SM2000 propeller shaft seals

michael grunstein <mgrunstein2002@...>
 

Thanks Ann and John,
this is my thinking too,
Michael #345


--- Anne & John Hollamby <annejohn@melita.net.mt>
wrote:

Hello Michael,
The seals are easily bought from a shop dealing in
bearings and seals. The bronze wearing fitting is
also easily made by any competent machinist
especialy as the measurements are not super critical
since one side is the new lip seals and the other an
O ring. Have a couple made up so you are ready for
the next time.


____________________________________________________________________________________
Building a website is a piece of cake. Yahoo! Small Business gives you all the tools to get online.
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Re: Electronics Needs

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 


Re: Electronics Needs

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 


Re: Electronics Needs

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Frank Newton
Boat # 321

RE: Electronics suggestions:

I would recommend installing a bilge pump run-on-alarm (alarms if the bilge pump runs
for more than a programmed time limit, I use two minutes) and exhaust temperature
alarms. Both are available from http://www.borelmfg.com/index.html ( www dot
borelmfg dot com).

I don't see the run on alarm on Borel's current web site, but if you call them I am sure they
can provide it.

The temp sensors may save you from a meltdown of the water muffler or hose/ or both if
the injector nozel becomes blocked and the run on alarm will give early warning that the
bilge is filling with water, (sooner than after the bilge pump has been running for an hour
trying to keep up), and finally falls behind.

Additional suggestions are: Electronic salinity sensor for the water maker as the
Dessalator salinity sensor DOES NOT WORK. and the Blue Sea's Digital Multimeter on the
220 volt panel so you always know your power consumption, frequency, and voltage.

Pictures of both of the last items are in the photo section under watermaker as I recall.

Regards, Gary


Re: Electronics Needs

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

F/wd Frank Newton
Boat # 321
inquired regarding recommendations for:

" .... echopilot - through hull sonar...."

Frank: I had Amel install a Twinscope system on my SM 2000 Hull # 335 in 2001. It is
the monochrome system and even though I installed the TWINScope Display head, Amel
declined to install the larger transducer that it required. They indicated that they hadn't
done the Twinscope previously and were concerned that turbulance from the larger
transducer might interfere with the B & G sonic speed transducer system. The Twinscope
can utilize a sincel larger transducer or two smaller transducers. So Amel installed only the
vertical forward scanning transducer. I subsequently installed the second transducer (the
horizontal scanning transducer), forward of the one amel installed. It had to be further
forward on the bow to be out of the way of the 1st transducer. Joel correctly pointed out
that the risk of doing this, besides the increased drag, is the doubling of the potential risk
of tearing a hole in the boat if you stike somethin in the water.

I have found the horizontal scanning mode rather difficult to interpret. On the other hand
the vertical forward scanning mode has saved me from grounding several times. Would I
do it again?, I honestly don't know. I believe Twinscope has a color unit available now and
if I was sailing where there were more coral heads then I think I would opt for the
Twinscope, but so far I haven't found much use for the horizontal scanning mode in the
Caribbean, Western Europe, or the East coast of the US.

Hope this helps. Gary Silver


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Vertical Battens on SM main and mizzen

Dr. Seidel <mseidel@...>
 

Call doyle in Ft. Lauderdale. Please see my e- mailk to you. There are problems doing it, but sm349 Sundance has them, Do not get the short horizontal to vertical. They do not work and the strings controlling the are a mess. You have to use long thin rods and highly reinforced ends. The first try on Sundance ripped out at the leach on Trip in late Jan., 2005 from Ft. L. to Wilm, NC. Paul Lockwood at Omar sails in Beaufort NC fixed them correctly. They have to be put on a specifis side of the sail. Murray Seidel 910-470-1225

----- Original Message -----
From: eric
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2007 8:23 PM
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Vertical Battens on SM main and mizzen


Graham,

Is there enough room in the mast to accommodate the additional diameter of
the battens?

Fair Winds,

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Graham Boyd
Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2007 3:29 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Vertical Battens on SM main and mizzen

I am about to replace the main and mizzen sail on my SM 140. I would
like to have the new sails made with vertical battens (either full
length or short ones like the Amel 54). Has anyone out there fitted
sails like this to a SM and if so is there any problems with the sails
catching during furling and unfurling or merely fitting into the masts
when furled? Has any one any recommendation of sail makers that have
fitted these sails to a SM? I am hoping that by getting some roach
into the main and mizzen this will help improve light air performance.

Graham


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Vertical Battens on SM main and mizzen

Dr. Seidel <mseidel@...>
 

Grahm- SM349 has 6-8 foot vertical battens done by Doyle in Ft. Lauderdale. The first attemt was by doyle in Barbados with "swing battens". They do not work and the lines used for control i.e.-deploying are a mess.I am sailing out of Wilmington NC and I think they make only a miniscule difference, but some compared to the standard Amel sail that I also have. The battens can only be placed on one specific side of the sail due to the small slot. When I picked the sail up in Ft. Laud. and sailed to Wilmington end of Nov.2005, the top ends of the battens chewed right through the leech. Had to remove sail and have Paul Lockwood of Omar Sails in Beafort, N.C. repair them. Works ok now. Below 5-6 knots, tough to get the SM moving decently. I did better with my J-24 in that wind. Turn on the Yanmar to 1200 rpm, can"t even hear or feel it and create a bit more wind and it svery nice. Murray Seidel 910-470-1225

----- Original Message -----
From: Graham Boyd
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2007 3:29 PM
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Vertical Battens on SM main and mizzen


I am about to replace the main and mizzen sail on my SM 140. I would
like to have the new sails made with vertical battens (either full
length or short ones like the Amel 54). Has anyone out there fitted
sails like this to a SM and if so is there any problems with the sails
catching during furling and unfurling or merely fitting into the masts
when furled? Has any one any recommendation of sail makers that have
fitted these sails to a SM? I am hoping that by getting some roach
into the main and mizzen this will help improve light air performance.

Graham


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] A Favor

Dr. Seidel <mseidel@...>
 

Dear Richard- I live in Wilmington , N>C> with 3 airlines servicing us.Fly direct to Charlotte then on to Wilm. I would be happy to have you sail SM349 all weekend. Just went to Bermuda and back. Call me if interested. Murray Seidel. 910-470-1225 or 910-395-6755. Office # 763-2361.----- Original Message -----
From: Richard Piller
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, August 03, 2007 8:42 AM
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] A Favor


If you want to come to Maine we'd be happy to show you
around.
Richard
rpille at earthlink.net
--- richard_navarro26 <richard_navarro26@yahoo.com>
wrote:

> I am considering purchasing a Super Maramu, but I
> haven't actually
> been on one yet. Is there a kind owner in Southern
> California who
> would be willing to allow me look at his boat so I
> can get an idea of
> what I am getting myself into? Thank you.
>
>

__________________________________________________________
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Re: A Favor

Stephan Regulinski
 

Richard,

If you make it up to the Seattle/Vancouver area, we would be happy to
show you ours . . . SMM303, "Delos".

Stephan

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "richard_navarro26"
<richard_navarro26@...> wrote:

I am considering purchasing a Super Maramu, but I haven't actually
been on one yet. Is there a kind owner in Southern California who
would be willing to allow me look at his boat so I can get an idea
of
what I am getting myself into? Thank you.


Re: Electronics Needs

Stephan Regulinski
 

Frank,

(1) SSB: We have an Icom 710 and have been very happy with it. We
had Amel install it (below the radar display in the spot that is
otherwise a drawer)with the whip antenna on the aft and the tuner in
the lazarette. Amel does a lot of these installations and they do a
good job.

(2) Sat Phone: we had a mini M and were not happy with the cost.
It was too easy to run up bills on the order of $1000/month. We
removed it and replaced it with a Pactor modem attached to the Icom
so we could do email over shortwave. By the way, I do not recommend
the stainless steel mounting system that Amel sells for the mini M.
Ours cracked. We replaced it with an arch on which we mounted the
mini M antenna (until we removed the system) and the wind
generator.

(3) Source: We bought our Icom, the Mini M and the Pactor modem all
from HF Onboard. Don, who runs the place is outstanding. When I
last spoke to him (around the time we bought the Pactor modem), he
reported that I was the last person to buy a mini M from him!
Apparently, pricing on the Iridium airtime and the Iridium phones is
substantially better than that on the mini M.

(4) Second autopilot drive unit. We bought the second drive unit
(chain) from Amel. It turned out to be worth the investment as we
had a failure on the aft drive unit while underway (Kingdom of Tonga
to New Zealand). At this point, we had about 35,000 miles on the
boat. Drive units will wear, and need service like everything else
(our linear drive was serviced in New Zealand and continues to
function fine).


Stephan
Delos (SMM 303)


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Global Scanner
<globalscanner44@...> wrote:

With some major blue water cruising planned for later this year
I am currently looking to fit the following in my SM2000.

I have tried Amel's electronics installers but had no response.
I am looking for recommendations / advice from members on the
following as electronics is not my bag.

SSB Radio

a) the best radio to go for ( UK licence )

b) type of aerial to use and where to locate it

Satellite Phone

What make/ type to go for in terms of features, charge rates -
is it the 'Mini M' ?

F/wd facing echopilot - through hull sonar

In members experience how good/effective are these ? Best to go
for ?

2nd Raymarine ST7000 Autopilot

to include, fluxgate, computer, rotary chain drive, control
panel, and rudder angle with switch to ensure both systems cannot be
on at same time.

In members experience do I need to go for this second autohelm;
how reliable is the principle ST7000?

My need for internet and e-mail at reasonable speed is also
critical in the above considerations

Any help on some or all of the above will be much appreciated.

Frank Newton
Boat # 321




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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Vertical Battens on SM main and mizzen

amelforme
 

Dear Members,

Peter Grimm Jr. of Sail Depot/Super Sail Makers, here in Fort Lauderdale
has made several sets of partial vertical batten sails for the 53, as on the 54,
for several of my clients. All are pleased with the performance increase.
He will give you my trade discount which makes these sails quite
affordable even when shipping is involved. Peter is our "anointed" AMEL
sail maker and does a good job in making our AMEL owners happy. You
can trust him.

Contact Peter on email at: peter@sail-depot.com
or by phone at (954) 462-3695.

All the best,

Joel F. Potter AMEL 54, Hull # 14, HOLLIS