Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Rub Rail

Mike Ondra
 

Hi Duane,

This is the drawing showing the cross section of the rub rail for our SM #240. Yours is probably similar. Should be of significant help in understanding the details.

The rub rail is fiberglass integral with the hull, the rubber strip is simply a gutter and provides a closure. We have pulled it out and pushed it back in while repairing the fiberglass rubrail, not an easy job, but doable even on a 15 year old boat.

Mike Ondra

S/V Aletes SM#240

Miami, FL

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2017 10:46 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Rub Rail

 

 

The rub rail suffered damage due to being struck by another boat while at anchor.  I've read about how this is a rubber strip applied to the hull.  On my boat (2005 Amel Super Maramu) it appears to be fiberglass.  Am I mistaken?  I can't feel any seam below the rub rail, it feels like and appears to be composite with the hull.  The gutter is a separate piece that sets on top of the rub rail and there is a seam there.

It's frustrating because I went to the other boat after they anchored and politely told them I had 100' of chain out (a 4:1 scope) and they were too close.  They said they would "keep an eye on it".  We should have moved then, but there are very few choices right now.  The collision occured due to wind adverse to current and the propensity for their Cabo Rico to "sail" on the anchor.

Duane
Wanderer, SM#477

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Rub Rail

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Olaf is selling the rubber gutter material for earlier SMs and Santorins.

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail


On Jan 10, 2017 11:59 AM, "Alexandre Uster von Baar uster@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Sorry to read about your misfortune Duane,

I can’t answer your question, but wanted to point out that on the Amel Yacht Owner group on Facebook, Olaf Bauer is selling an original Amel Ru rail for SM2K or Santorin 2 x 16 meter. Amel sells for 852 euro, he sells for 550 euro…

I would jump on the opportunity…

Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Harbor View Marina, Tortola, BVI

--------------------------------------------
On Tue, 1/10/17, sailor63109@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Rub Rail
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tuesday, January 10, 2017, 9:45 AM


 









The rub rail suffered damage due to being struck by
another boat while at anchor.  I've read about how this
is a rubber strip applied to the hull.  On my boat (2005
Amel Super Maramu) it appears to be fiberglass.  Am I
mistaken?  I can't feel any seam below the rub rail, it
feels like and appears to be composite with the hull.  The
gutter is a separate piece that sets on top of the rub rail
and there is a seam there.

It's frustrating because I went to the
other boat after they anchored and politely told them I had
100' of chain out (a 4:1 scope) and they were too
close.  They said they would "keep an eye on
it".  We should have moved then, but there are very
few choices right now.  The collision occured due to wind
adverse to current and the propensity for their Cabo Rico to
"sail" on the anchor.

Duane
Wanderer, SM#477











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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Rub Rail

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Duane,

The gutter was a rubber-like material on earlier SMs, not yours. This is the reason you read about "rubber."

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail


On Jan 10, 2017 11:45 AM, "sailor63109@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

The rub rail suffered damage due to being struck by another boat while at anchor.  I've read about how this is a rubber strip applied to the hull.  On my boat (2005 Amel Super Maramu) it appears to be fiberglass.  Am I mistaken?  I can't feel any seam below the rub rail, it feels like and appears to be composite with the hull.  The gutter is a separate piece that sets on top of the rub rail and there is a seam there.

It's frustrating because I went to the other boat after they anchored and politely told them I had 100' of chain out (a 4:1 scope) and they were too close.  They said they would "keep an eye on it".  We should have moved then, but there are very few choices right now.  The collision occured due to wind adverse to current and the propensity for their Cabo Rico to "sail" on the anchor.

Duane
Wanderer, SM#477




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Rub Rail

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Sorry to read about your misfortune Duane,

I can’t answer your question, but wanted to point out that on the Amel Yacht Owner group on Facebook, Olaf Bauer is selling an original Amel Ru rail for SM2K or Santorin 2 x 16 meter. Amel sells for 852 euro, he sells for 550 euro…

I would jump on the opportunity…

Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Harbor View Marina, Tortola, BVI





--------------------------------------------

On Tue, 1/10/17, sailor63109@yahoo.com [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Rub Rail
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tuesday, January 10, 2017, 9:45 AM


 









The rub rail suffered damage due to being struck by
another boat while at anchor.  I've read about how this
is a rubber strip applied to the hull.  On my boat (2005
Amel Super Maramu) it appears to be fiberglass.  Am I
mistaken?  I can't feel any seam below the rub rail, it
feels like and appears to be composite with the hull.  The
gutter is a separate piece that sets on top of the rub rail
and there is a seam there.

It's frustrating because I went to the
other boat after they anchored and politely told them I had
100' of chain out (a 4:1 scope) and they were too
close.  They said they would "keep an eye on
it".  We should have moved then, but there are very
few choices right now.  The collision occured due to wind
adverse to current and the propensity for their Cabo Rico to
"sail" on the anchor.

Duane
Wanderer, SM#477











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Rub Rail

Duane Siegfri
 

The rub rail suffered damage due to being struck by another boat while at anchor.  I've read about how this is a rubber strip applied to the hull.  On my boat (2005 Amel Super Maramu) it appears to be fiberglass.  Am I mistaken?  I can't feel any seam below the rub rail, it feels like and appears to be composite with the hull.  The gutter is a separate piece that sets on top of the rub rail and there is a seam there.

It's frustrating because I went to the other boat after they anchored and politely told them I had 100' of chain out (a 4:1 scope) and they were too close.  They said they would "keep an eye on it".  We should have moved then, but there are very few choices right now.  The collision occured due to wind adverse to current and the propensity for their Cabo Rico to "sail" on the anchor.

Duane
Wanderer, SM#477



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Kent-vetus coupling

Beaute Olivier
 

Hi Eric,

here are some pictures from the VETUS coupling, 35mm, as it is modified/machined from AMEL.
Note that the aluminum is machined in order to enter the gear-box output shaft flange.
Note that the steel part is machined at the front end, in order not to be "caught" at the C-drive input shaft's bevel end.
Of course, there is absolutely no hole to drill or thorn screw to install between the steel hub and the C-drive shaft.

 Good luck.


On Monday, January 9, 2017 5:02 PM, "sangaris@... [amelyachtowners]" wrote:


 
Remember that these Vetus couplings are designed for conventional drive shaft installations where the propeller is pushing the shaft forward (or pulling it back in reverse gear). That is why they specify drilling a hole in the drive shaft and installing the roll pin. (They used to use a set screw, which could easily slip and you could loose the shaft right out the back of the boat - ask me how I know.) 
On our Amels there is no force pushing or pulling the shaft and the pin is absolutely not needed, thus Steve's choice is totally correct. The key transfers the rotational force from the engine drive shaft to the "C" drive input shaft and is all that is needed.
Craig, SN68 Sangaris


---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote :

You can pull up a detailed drawing of the KO5 (type 6) coupling on the web. It does have a keyway. However, on the Vetus instructions, they say you must drill through the shaft, and use a provided roll pin. We chose not to compromise the shaft by drilling, and just used the keyway which seemed identical to the old broken coupling. 

Steve
Aloha SM72

On Jan 9, 2017, at 02:08, Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Damn, Eric, I don't know.  I was sitting in the cockpit while the mechanic was doing the hands on work.
Kent


From: "'sailormon' kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Monday, January 9, 2017 1:01 AM
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Kent-vetus coupling

 
Did the coupling have a keyway in it?
Fair Winds
Eric
Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376
 
 
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Monday, January 09, 2017 12:34 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Kent-vetus coupling
 
 
It came from Amel with the new C drive, Eric.  I didn't compare it closely with the old one, but they seemed to be the same.
Kent
 

From: "'sailormon' kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Sunday, January 8, 2017 11:55 PM
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Kent-vetus coupling
 
 
When you installed your yanmar did you use a stock Vetus coupling or did you purchase it from Amel?
Fair Winds
Eric
Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376
 
 
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2017 11:33 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Replacing Vetus Coupling Bolts
 
 
Hi Eric,
The coupling needs to fit a 35mm shaft.  The 60mm is what the coupling housing would go over and is the "hub" of the coupling.  Thought that bit of info might be helpful.  
 
Not sure if it pertains to your project but an earlier posting made me think that the stock Vetus couplings would not work for the later SMs with Yanmars.  It stated--from posting number 22356-- "Pat We have been down this road using the Standard Vetus coupling you describe. It does not fit. We ordered ours from Amel as they have a special build. The one in the catalog is approx. 5MM to long and it can not be shortened to make it fit. Paul & Susan LaFrance SV NOMAD SM#362". 
 
I'll include this for thread continuity on the replacement of the coupling bollts--Regarding my project to replace the bushings using bolts threaded at both ends, an email to Danny (with a Volvo engine) confirmed that he was able to replace the bolts by sliding the engine back, splitting the coupling, replacing the rubber bushings and then sliding the bolts through before reassembling the 2 coupling housings.  Interesting--he did this in Tonga and could not obtain the bushings so he carved come out of truck suspension bushings and they worked fine for several years, showing no wear when he replaced them with the Vetus bushings.
 
A question I still have is how the Vetus hub is removed from the shaft coming from the C drive (especially for the Yanmar era SMs).  Is it removed by drilling out a pin in the hub? Any gurus out there with an answer?
 
I plan to post some pic of our bushing replacement project one I have the bushings and can complete the project.
 
Bob, KAIMI
SM 429
 
 





Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Yanmar 75HP - Cannot go over 2300 RPM

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Dom,

I recommend C Drive service at 800 engine hours or 2 years which ever comes first. This would include new wear bushing, 3 new seals, and new oil. At that same time adding grease to the AutoProp, and servicing the bow thruster. We also renew antifouling every two years.

Bruntons, manufacturer of AutoProp, recommended 1200 hours for bearing replacement. I replaced our AutoProp bearings at 2200 hours and the old bearings had no signs of wear...so I am not sure. The bearing kit is around 500-600 euros. Do you remember if Amel just added grease, or if they installed a bearing kit? BTW, the bearing kit installation is not that easy. I had an AutoProp representative do it for me.

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail


On Jan 9, 2017 9:18 PM, "Dominique Guenot dominique_guenot@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Thanks Bill and all for sharing your thoughts and experience and taking the time.  


I will clean the Turbo per your recommendation when we will come back from our road trip at the end of February


Regarding the Autoprop I have it serviced by Amel Caraibes early February at 2600 hours as well as the C-Drive.

Then I have cleaned the Autoprop diving several times since to ensure good mobility.

We are now in NZ at 3600 hours.

 

What is your recommended hours to service the C-drive - we assume no mayonnaise in the oil ?

and the Autoprop?


Thank you

Dominique Guenot 

+64 21 086 50 233 

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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Yanmar 75HP - Cannot go over 2300 RPM

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi all.
I grease my prop in water between haul outs. Not difficult
 Just have to be careful not to drop anything. Especially the little grub screws. If you have spares you won't drop any. I was doing it it what I class as cold water one time, cold fingers don't handle little grub screws well. But I had spares so didn't drop any. 
Cheers
Danny
SM 299
Ocean Pearl



On Tue, Jan 10, 2017 at 18:46, divanz620@... [amelyachtowners]
<amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Sorry Dominique,


Autoprop......700-1000 hours or when the bearings feel rough, they need replacing, not that difficult, but some special tools required....you can find the complete instructions online ...google Autoprop service.
Otherwise, grease the bearings of the  three blades through the removable screws,( you need a special grease nipple), every time you haul out...

Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437


Re: Yanmar 75HP - Cannot go over 2300 RPM

Alan Leslie
 

Sorry Dominique,

Autoprop.....700-1000 hours or when the bearings feel rough, they need replacing, not that difficult, but some special tools required....you can find the complete instructions online ...google Autoprop service.
Otherwise, grease the bearings of the  three blades through the removable screws,( you need a special grease nipple), every time you haul out...

Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437


Re: Yanmar 75HP - Cannot go over 2300 RPM

Alan Leslie
 

Hi Dominique,
We are hauled out at Gulf Harbour, Auckland,  because of caramel C-drive oil....and some keel scrapes that need attention. I've done the C-drive, now waiting on the keel.
Amel recommendation to change the C-drive bague d'usure, seals and oil is 800 hrs / 2 years.
Trust this of help.
Where in NZ is your Amel ?
Avec mes salutations les meilleures
Alan
Elsyse SM437


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Raw water manifold replacement

eric freedman
 

Vladimir,

I believe if you look at the heat exchanger on the forward end of the Onan you will find a bolt which is actually a short pencil zinc.

THAT ONE IS IMPORTANT.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Monday, January 09, 2017 11:18 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Raw water manifold replacement

 

 

Hi Bill,

How did you attach zink to the raw water manifold?
I do not see zinks on the Yanmar or Onan.

Vladimir
SM#345

 

On Jan 9, 2017 10:30 AM, "greatketch@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Don't forget about the zincs in the engine and generator... they are there for the same reason:  the zinc on the rudder is NOT going to protect anything inside the engine room.  



The bonding serves two purposes: to drain off stray currents and protect underwater metals from galvanic corrosion with the zinc.  For parts up inside the engine room connected to the ocean by a hose the galvanic protection available from an external zinc is so close to zero it makes no nevermind, but the stray current protection is still really important. That's why the engine and generator zincs are so important to keep on top of seperate from the rudder zinc.

 

Worst case:  the zinc installed in the manifold dissolves faster than the rudder zinc.  But it is a piece of cake to replace.  And guess what?  If it dissolves quickly, that means it is needed!

 

It sure sounds to me like some of the original manifolds installed had some brazing issues that might have been helped by an installed zinc if they are failing in as little as 8 years.

 

Bill Kinney

SM#160  Harmonie

Rose Island, Bahamas

 



---In amelyachtowners@..., <yahoogroups@...> wrote :

If you place a zinc on the manifold and also leave the manifold connected to the bonding system, that zinc will be the closest zinc to all items in the bonding system and will deteriorate before the rudder zincs.

Yes, it can't hurt, but I would not advise it if the manifold is connected to the bonding system.

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail

 

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Yanmar 75HP - Cannot go over 2300 RPM

eric freedman
 

Vladimir,

There was no significant difference between the before and after bearing change .

However the engine gained 1000 RPM’s. I believe the difference cannot be detected when the boat is on the hard but when the prop is turning 1000 rpm I am sure that makes the difference.

 

Where are you located?

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Monday, January 09, 2017 10:03 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Yanmar 75HP - Cannot go over 2300 RPM

 

 

Eric,

Thanks for your email. It is interesting.
I have my boat for one year.  The engine has more than 4,000 hours.  I don't know if bearings were replaced before. I greased prop bearings 2 times. Prop blades rotate freely. There is no play. There is no evidence of any bearing damage.  What else could go wrong? Did you feel anything wrong before you change the bears? Could you feel any difference in blade rotation after the bearings change?

Vladimir
SM#345 "LIFE IS GOOD"

 

On Jan 9, 2017 1:00 AM, "'sailormon' kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

I had the same problem with Kimberlite. Even though when I hauled her and tried to wiggle the blades of the autoprop they seemed normal. After exhausting all other possibilities , I spend a day and rebuilt the autoprop.

Voila back to 3500 rpm. I also rebuilt the prop at about 3500 hours.

The autoprop is a sensitive beast and the slightest out of balance will kill your rpm.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Monday, January 09, 2017 12:18 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Yanmar 75HP - Cannot go over 2300 RPM

 

 

Hi Vlad and Dominique,

AutoProps require regular maintenance.  If you haven't done that in a couple of years, that may be your problem.  There are some other threads on this forum that discuss this vis a vis low rpm.  Just spinning the blades on the hub doesn't tell you much.  They can feel perfectly free wheeling, and still be a problem.

If you don't run your engine hard on a regular basis, you can get a serious buildup of carbon in the turbo and exhaust elbow.  That's the second place to look.

Let us know what you find.

Kent

 


From: "Vladimir Sonsev sonsev52@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Sunday, January 8, 2017 11:21 PM
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Yanmar 75HP - Cannot go over 2300 RPM

 

 

Hi Dominique,

I also have 75 HP YANMAR engine 4JH3-TE. I also can't develop more than 2200-2500 RPM.
I am discussing this problem with Autoprop.  I suspect that perhaps prop provides to much torque load.

Autoprop ask me for transmission gear ratio. The label on my transmission is gone. I requested this information from Amel. I am waiting for a reply now.

Autoprop also ask me to conduct some tests. I can't do the tests now because my boat is on hard.
I will keep you posted.

Vladimir
SM#345 "LIFE IS GOOD"

 

On Jan 8, 2017 10:26 PM, "songhui_ma@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Happy New Year 2017

 

Yanmar 4JH3-TE - 3600 hours - 1500 hours maintenance. 

 

A New Zealand mechanic replaced the injectors with Yanmar ones I provided and sourced in the US [Niemiec] Both mechanic and my US provider confirmed that it was the correct part #. 

 

However and since I cannot go over 2300 RPM.

The smoke is pretty transparent neither black or white. 

 

I browsed the internet, got a lot of ideas, but nothing which jumped out.

I suspect it is related to the Turbo - over 2300 RPM - that I have not used much and realized I should have.   

 

Suggestions greatly appreciated

 

Thanks

Dominique 

S/V Viva 

SM #374 

Opua, NZ 

 

 

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Yanmar 75HP - Cannot go over 2300 RPM

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Dominique. I see you are on new Zealand, if NZ means new Zealand. We are at our home port of Mangonui in the far north and we extend an invitation to you and any other amels currently in nz to visit us in Mangonui. It is a safe and sheltered harbour with good anchorages and access to services. our phone no is 0274 876 368.
Regards
Danny 
SM 299
Ocean Pearl


On Tue, Jan 10, 2017 at 14:18, Dominique Guenot dominique_guenot@... [amelyachtowners]
wrote:
 

Thanks Bill and all for sharing your thoughts and experience and taking the time.  


I will clean the Turbo per your recommendation when we will come back from our road trip at the end of February


Regarding the Autoprop I have it serviced by Amel Caraibes early February at 2600 hours as well as the C-Drive.

Then I have cleaned the Autoprop diving several times since to ensure good mobility.

We are now in NZ at 3600 hours.


What is your recommended hours to service the C-drive - we assume no mayonnaise in the oil ?

and the Autoprop?


Thank you

Dominique Guenot 

+64 21 086 50 233 

You'll need Skype CreditFree via Skype
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Looking for information SM246

rcavie <no_reply@...>
 

I am not Amel Owner but I hope to be in the near future, and I learn a lot in this group.

Recently I see the AMEL SM246 Agapanthe in St Martin, Caribbe. I will appreciate if anyone has information on the history of this boat.

Thank you very much

Rafael

Rcavie@...



 


Re: Stern Bumper for SM2000

Dominique Guenot
 

Thank you very much Colin and all.


I will contact Amel


Cheers

Dominique Guenot 
+64 21 086 50 233 


Re: Yanmar 75HP - Cannot go over 2300 RPM

Dominique Guenot
 

Thanks Bill and all for sharing your thoughts and experience and taking the time.  


I will clean the Turbo per your recommendation when we will come back from our road trip at the end of February


Regarding the Autoprop I have it serviced by Amel Caraibes early February at 2600 hours as well as the C-Drive.

Then I have cleaned the Autoprop diving several times since to ensure good mobility.

We are now in NZ at 3600 hours.

 

What is your recommended hours to service the C-drive - we assume no mayonnaise in the oil ?

and the Autoprop?


Thank you

Dominique Guenot 

+64 21 086 50 233 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water manifold replacement

Craig Briggs
 

I would add that, rather than using PVC at the thru-hull, keep your durable metal thru-hull fitting and then transition to the PVC using a flexible rubber connector to isolate vibration. These flex connectors are standard plumbing supplies. I've used PVC for years for all toilet plumbing and find if far superior to flexible hose - no odors and easy to clean out mineral build-up - again with flexible couplings to thru hulls, holding tank and toilet. 
Craig Briggs, SN#68, Sangaris



---In amelyachtowners@..., <greatketch@...> wrote :

There are reasons not to use PVC for through hull connections, although it is certainly easy to fabricate, cheap and impervious to corrosion.

It is much more brittle than stainless, or bronze or the original copper. It can fail it something hits it or someone steps on it or from long term vibration.  I know, I know, such a thing is very unlikely, but the first rule of sailing is to keep the water out of the boat--always.

In the event of a fire, PVC would have a very short life span before it fails and water floods the boat.  PVC begins to seriously soften at temperatures as low as 140F, which is not that far above an Amel engine room on a hot sunny day in the tropics with the engine running.

If plastic still seems like a good idea, use schedule 80 pipe AND fittings for extra strength and use CPVC, not PVC, for it's higher temperature rating. Also, if you use plastic hose barbs be sure they meet the same strength and temperature specs--they are not easy to find.  I have had too many PVC and nylon hose barb adapters break off while removing hoses to ever trust them on through hulls.

There are plastics that can be reliably used in through hull applications (Marelon comes to mind) but PVC?  Not so sure...

Bill Kinney
SM#160 Harmonie
Rose Island, Bahamas




---In amelyachtowners@..., <onboardaphrodite@...> wrote :

I made a new manifold out of PVC




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Raw water manifold replacement

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

V,

There is no zinc on your Yanmar engine, but there is a small zinc on the Onan Generator. 

Both the engine and the generator were connected to the Amel bonding system when the boat was manufactured. I believe that the reason that there is a zinc on the Onan is because Amel could not buy the Onan without a zinc.

The Onan zinc is located on the top and port-side back end of the Onan heat exchanger. It looks like a brass bolt. Refer to your manual for more info.

Bill
BeBe 387

On Mon, Jan 9, 2017 at 4:18 PM, Vladimir Sonsev sonsev52@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi Bill,

How did you attach zink to the raw water manifold?
I do not see zinks on the Yanmar or Onan.

Vladimir
SM#345


On Jan 9, 2017 10:30 AM, "greatketch@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
 

Don't forget about the zincs in the engine and generator... they are there for the same reason:  the zinc on the rudder is NOT going to protect anything inside the engine room.  


The bonding serves two purposes: to drain off stray currents and protect underwater metals from galvanic corrosion with the zinc.  For parts up inside the engine room connected to the ocean by a hose the galvanic protection available from an external zinc is so close to zero it makes no nevermind, but the stray current protection is still really important. That's why the engine and generator zincs are so important to keep on top of seperate from the rudder zinc.

Worst case:  the zinc installed in the manifold dissolves faster than the rudder zinc.  But it is a piece of cake to replace.  And guess what?  If it dissolves quickly, that means it is needed!

It sure sounds to me like some of the original manifolds installed had some brazing issues that might have been helped by an installed zinc if they are failing in as little as 8 years.

Bill Kinney
SM#160  Harmonie
Rose Island, Bahamas



---In amelyachtowners@...m, wrote :

If you place a zinc on the manifold and also leave the manifold connected to the bonding system, that zinc will be the closest zinc to all items in the bonding system and will deteriorate before the rudder zincs.

Yes, it can't hurt, but I would not advise it if the manifold is connected to the bonding system.

Bill Rouse
BeBe Amel 53 #387
Sent from my tablet
+1832-380-4970 USA Voice Mail





Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Raw water manifold replacement

VLADIMIR SONSEV
 

Thanks to evrybody. Your help is appreciated.

Vladimir
SM#345 "LIFE IS GOOD"


On Jan 9, 2017 11:59 AM, "greatketch@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Vladimir,


You can't easily add a zinc to an existing manifold.  If you are having a new manifold fabricated, you have an extra 1/4 or 1/8 NPT port added that a standard pencil zinc will thread into.

Most marine engines have zincs on the heat exchanger. I am not sure where Yanmar puts theirs. Volvos (like my engine) are the most common exception to the rule and do not use cooling system zincs on most of their engines.  

The Onan has a pencil zinc on the heat exchanger head on the end of the engine opposite the generator.  If you haven't replaced it in a long time, you will likely need to replace the brass plug as well as the zinc pencil. If you haven't replaced it in a really long time, the brass plug can crumble when you try to remove it and make a simple project a messy one.  And if you don't replace it for a really, REALLY long time, the brass plug can crumble on its own and flood the boat.  

Bill Kinney
SM#160 Harmonie
Rose Island, Bahamas



---In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, wrote :

Hi Bill,

How did you attach zink to the raw water manifold?
I do not see zinks on the Yanmar or Onan.

Vladimir
SM#345




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Raw water manifold replacement

greatketch@...
 

Vladimir,

You can't easily add a zinc to an existing manifold.  If you are having a new manifold fabricated, you have an extra 1/4 or 1/8 NPT port added that a standard pencil zinc will thread into.

Most marine engines have zincs on the heat exchanger. I am not sure where Yanmar puts theirs. Volvos (like my engine) are the most common exception to the rule and do not use cooling system zincs on most of their engines.  

The Onan has a pencil zinc on the heat exchanger head on the end of the engine opposite the generator.  If you haven't replaced it in a long time, you will likely need to replace the brass plug as well as the zinc pencil. If you haven't replaced it in a really long time, the brass plug can crumble when you try to remove it and make a simple project a messy one.  And if you don't replace it for a really, REALLY long time, the brass plug can crumble on its own and flood the boat.  

Bill Kinney
SM#160 Harmonie
Rose Island, Bahamas



---In amelyachtowners@..., <sonsev52@...> wrote :

Hi Bill,

How did you attach zink to the raw water manifold?
I do not see zinks on the Yanmar or Onan.

Vladimir
SM#345