Re: mainsail furler/ headsail sheets
Duane Siegfri
Hi Jeff,
We're anchored between the Flagler and Royal Park Bridges, we'd love to get together with you! How about Thursday? You can reach us at 314-280-3757 Duane & Peg Siegfried Wanderer, SM #477
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] mainsail furler/ headsail sheets
Hi Jeff, Darn, I was just visiting friends in Boynton Beach. I'm not on the boat right now, and don't know the answer to your questions off the top of my head. I bought my furling and outhaul motors and gearboxes from Amel. Let me suggest that you don't get new sheets that are significantly larger that the originals. They won't fit well in the self tailing winches. Hope I meet you somewhere and have a beer/wine/rum or two! Kent SM243 Kristy
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mainsail furler/ headsail sheets
JEFFREY KRAUS
I need to replace the mainsail furling motor, and was wondering if anyone knew the best place to find it in the states (I'm currently in West Palm Beach FL, heading back to LINY Sunday), or do I have to get it from Amel? Also, I am looking to replace the headsail sheets. I'm assuming the original sheets are aboard, and that they are some metric rated lines (size/breaking strength). What is the consensus regarding replacement? If anything, I would oversize it. Parting the starboard sheet in 50+ is something I'd prefer to do only once. If there are any Amelians in the vicinity of West Palm, I'd love to invite you down to Cannonsport Marina to have an evening cocktail and a few laughs. Thanks! Jeff s/v Spirit Amel 54
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Re: Stern Bumper for SM2000
alainfeuillet@...
Hi Dominique,
on our SM, hull n°26 year 1990, we got our hold rear bumper covered with Sunbrella. It is a reasonable solution, less than 100€, if your foam is either in good shape or still reparable and the fixation plate on the rear in good condition. Hope it can help and save time and money. Alain
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Fridge for Santorin
Ric Gottschalk <ric@...>
I have placed it in 2 locations. The first was under the salon seat next to the forward head wall. There I took out the macerator. It worked out very well as a freezer. The other location is in the cockpit locker. There I use it for cold drinks. I also had a large Engel 50 cooler on the cockpit floor for cold drinks. Cold beverages, easily available for the captain and 3 crew, keep the contents in the 2 drawer frig cold. Now I use to small Engel for drinks, but can use it as a freezer. I found the freezer in the 2 drawer unit meets my needs. Cheers, Ric Bali Hai SN24 Annapolis
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2017 1:47 PM To: amelyachtowners@... Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Fridge for Santorin
Ric Where have you placed the Engel 35? Thanks Sonya Calypso II M47
Hi, I replaced my Frig. several years ago with a 2 drawer ac/dc vitrifrigo. It has a SS finish and fits with very little modification. The top drawer is a freezer and bottom refrigerator. You can adjust the temperature. Both drawers has a large capacity. My Santorin did not have a separate freezer, so it is a major improvement. I have also added an Engel 35 for additional freezer space Ric Bali Hai SN24 Annapolis
From:
amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Hi Santorin Owners,
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Fridge for Santorin
Daryl P
Ric Where have you placed the Engel 35? Thanks Sonya Calypso II M47 ---In amelyachtowners@..., <ric@...> wrote : Hi, I replaced my Frig. several years ago with a 2 drawer ac/dc vitrifrigo. It has a SS finish and fits with very little modification. The top drawer is a freezer and bottom refrigerator. You can adjust the temperature. Both drawers has a large capacity. My Santorin did not have a separate freezer, so it is a major improvement. I have also added an Engel 35 for additional freezer space Ric Bali Hai SN24 Annapolis
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, January 07, 2017 3:34 PM To: amelyachtowners@... Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Fridge for Santorin
Hi Santorin Owners,
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Raw water manifold replacement
Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
Bill Kinney, I think that I clearly gave an opinion. You have a right to an opinion, also. I am not going to argue with you because you are far smarter than I am and have much more experience. But, I am sticking with my opinion. Bill Rouse
On Jan 10, 2017 2:05 PM, "greatketch@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Raw water manifold replacement
greatketch@...
If the zinc wasn't necessary on the Onan it could easily have been replaced with a standard pipe plug, and heat exchangers are easy and (relatively) cheap to have custom made without a zinc fitting. If those were good ideas, Amel would have done one or the other.
That zinc is needed to protect the materials in the Onan heat exchanger. It is NOT redundant with the rudder zinc. If the rudder zinc protected the Onan heat exchanger, why bother to replace the zinc when it dissolved? Bill Kinney SM#160 Harmonie Rose Island, Bahamas
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Rub Rail
Hi Duane, Attached is the drawing showing the cross section of the rub rail for our SM #240. Yours is may be similar. Should be of significant help in understanding the details. The rub rail is fiberglass integral with the hull, the rubber strip is simply a gutter and provides a closure. We have pulled it out and pushed it back in while repairing the fiberglass rubrail, not an easy job, but doable even on a 15 year old boat.
Mike Ondra S/V Aletes SM#240 Miami, FL
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2017 10:46 AM To: amelyachtowners@... Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Rub Rail
The rub rail suffered damage due to being struck by another boat while at anchor. I've read about how this is a rubber strip applied to the hull. On my boat (2005 Amel Super Maramu) it appears to be fiberglass. Am I mistaken? I can't feel any seam below the rub rail, it feels like and appears to be composite with the hull. The gutter is a separate piece that sets on top of the rub rail and there is a seam there.
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Rub Rail
amelforme
Duane, the later model SM 53' all had the hard thermoplastic 'insert' that replaced the previous soft synthetic rubber type which works well but is prone to staining irreversibly. The hard insert is extremely difficult to replace. Let me emphasize extremely again! The synthetic rubber is much more simple to install and is, in fact, almost easy. You need to snatch up that used 'soft' rub rail insert. How much fiberglass damage did you sustain? I have supervised the repair of the fiberglass box section that supports the 'rub rail' several times and would be pleased to speak to whomever you select to repair it to share the methods we found to be the best way to proceed. Joel F. Potter THE EXPERIENCED AMEL GUY 954-812-2485
On Jan 10, 2017, at 10:59 AM, Alexandre Uster von Baar uster@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Rub Rail
Hi Duane, This is the drawing showing the cross section of the rub rail for our SM #240. Yours is probably similar. Should be of significant help in understanding the details. The rub rail is fiberglass integral with the hull, the rubber strip is simply a gutter and provides a closure. We have pulled it out and pushed it back in while repairing the fiberglass rubrail, not an easy job, but doable even on a 15 year old boat. Mike Ondra S/V Aletes SM#240 Miami, FL
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2017 10:46 AM To: amelyachtowners@... Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Rub Rail
The rub rail suffered damage due to being struck by another boat while at anchor. I've read about how this is a rubber strip applied to the hull. On my boat (2005 Amel Super Maramu) it appears to be fiberglass. Am I mistaken? I can't feel any seam below the rub rail, it feels like and appears to be composite with the hull. The gutter is a separate piece that sets on top of the rub rail and there is a seam there.
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Rub Rail
Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
Olaf is selling the rubber gutter material for earlier SMs and Santorins. Bill Rouse
On Jan 10, 2017 11:59 AM, "Alexandre Uster von Baar uster@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Rub Rail
Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
Duane, The gutter was a rubber-like material on earlier SMs, not yours. This is the reason you read about "rubber." Bill Rouse
On Jan 10, 2017 11:45 AM, "sailor63109@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Rub Rail
Alexandre Uster von Baar
Sorry to read about your misfortune Duane,
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
I can’t answer your question, but wanted to point out that on the Amel Yacht Owner group on Facebook, Olaf Bauer is selling an original Amel Ru rail for SM2K or Santorin 2 x 16 meter. Amel sells for 852 euro, he sells for 550 euro… I would jump on the opportunity… Sincerely, Alexandre SM2K #289 NIKIMAT Harbor View Marina, Tortola, BVI --------------------------------------------
On Tue, 1/10/17, sailor63109@yahoo.com [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Rub Rail To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com Date: Tuesday, January 10, 2017, 9:45 AM The rub rail suffered damage due to being struck by another boat while at anchor. I've read about how this is a rubber strip applied to the hull. On my boat (2005 Amel Super Maramu) it appears to be fiberglass. Am I mistaken? I can't feel any seam below the rub rail, it feels like and appears to be composite with the hull. The gutter is a separate piece that sets on top of the rub rail and there is a seam there. It's frustrating because I went to the other boat after they anchored and politely told them I had 100' of chain out (a 4:1 scope) and they were too close. They said they would "keep an eye on it". We should have moved then, but there are very few choices right now. The collision occured due to wind adverse to current and the propensity for their Cabo Rico to "sail" on the anchor. Duane Wanderer, SM#477 #yiv3326194737 #yiv3326194737 -- #yiv3326194737ygrp-mkp { border:1px solid #d8d8d8;font-family:Arial;margin:10px 0;padding:0 10px;} #yiv3326194737 #yiv3326194737ygrp-mkp hr { border:1px solid #d8d8d8;} #yiv3326194737 #yiv3326194737ygrp-mkp #yiv3326194737hd { color:#628c2a;font-size:85%;font-weight:700;line-height:122%;margin:10px 0;} #yiv3326194737 #yiv3326194737ygrp-mkp #yiv3326194737ads { margin-bottom:10px;} #yiv3326194737 #yiv3326194737ygrp-mkp .yiv3326194737ad { padding:0 0;} #yiv3326194737 #yiv3326194737ygrp-mkp .yiv3326194737ad p { margin:0;} #yiv3326194737 #yiv3326194737ygrp-mkp .yiv3326194737ad a { color:#0000ff;text-decoration:none;} #yiv3326194737 #yiv3326194737ygrp-sponsor #yiv3326194737ygrp-lc { font-family:Arial;} #yiv3326194737 #yiv3326194737ygrp-sponsor #yiv3326194737ygrp-lc #yiv3326194737hd { margin:10px 0px;font-weight:700;font-size:78%;line-height:122%;} #yiv3326194737 #yiv3326194737ygrp-sponsor #yiv3326194737ygrp-lc .yiv3326194737ad { 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Rub Rail
Duane Siegfri
The rub rail suffered damage due to being struck by another boat while at anchor. I've read about how this is a rubber strip applied to the hull. On my boat (2005 Amel Super Maramu) it appears to be fiberglass. Am I mistaken? I can't feel any seam below the rub rail, it feels like and appears to be composite with the hull. The gutter is a separate piece that sets on top of the rub rail and there is a seam there.
It's frustrating because I went to the other boat after they anchored and politely told them I had 100' of chain out (a 4:1 scope) and they were too close. They said they would "keep an eye on it". We should have moved then, but there are very few choices right now. The collision occured due to wind adverse to current and the propensity for their Cabo Rico to "sail" on the anchor. Duane Wanderer, SM#477
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Kent-vetus coupling
Beaute Olivier
Hi Eric, here are some pictures from the VETUS coupling, 35mm, as it is modified/machined from AMEL. Note that the aluminum is machined in order to enter the gear-box output shaft flange. Note that the steel part is machined at the front end, in order not to be "caught" at the C-drive input shaft's bevel end. Of course, there is absolutely no hole to drill or thorn screw to install between the steel hub and the C-drive shaft. Good luck.
On Monday, January 9, 2017 5:02 PM, "sangaris@... [amelyachtowners]" wrote: Remember that these Vetus couplings are designed for conventional drive shaft installations where the propeller is pushing the shaft forward (or pulling it back in reverse gear). That is why they specify drilling a hole in the drive shaft and installing the roll pin. (They used to use a set screw, which could easily slip and you could loose the shaft right out the back of the boat - ask me how I know.) On our Amels there is no force pushing or pulling the shaft and the pin is absolutely not needed, thus Steve's choice is totally correct. The key transfers the rotational force from the engine drive shaft to the "C" drive input shaft and is all that is needed. Craig, SN68 Sangaris
---In amelyachtowners@..., wrote : You can pull up a detailed drawing of the KO5 (type 6) coupling on the web. It does have a keyway. However, on the Vetus instructions, they say you must drill through the shaft, and use a provided roll pin. We chose not to compromise the shaft by drilling, and just used the keyway which seemed identical to the old broken coupling. Steve Aloha SM72 On Jan 9, 2017, at 02:08, Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Yanmar 75HP - Cannot go over 2300 RPM
Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
Dom, I recommend C Drive service at 800 engine hours or 2 years which ever comes first. This would include new wear bushing, 3 new seals, and new oil. At that same time adding grease to the AutoProp, and servicing the bow thruster. We also renew antifouling every two years. Bruntons, manufacturer of AutoProp, recommended 1200 hours for bearing replacement. I replaced our AutoProp bearings at 2200 hours and the old bearings had no signs of wear...so I am not sure. The bearing kit is around 500-600 euros. Do you remember if Amel just added grease, or if they installed a bearing kit? BTW, the bearing kit installation is not that easy. I had an AutoProp representative do it for me. Bill Rouse
On Jan 9, 2017 9:18 PM, "Dominique Guenot dominique_guenot@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Yanmar 75HP - Cannot go over 2300 RPM
Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
Hi all.
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
I grease my prop in water between haul outs. Not difficult Just have to be careful not to drop anything. Especially the little grub screws. If you have spares you won't drop any. I was doing it it what I class as cold water one time, cold fingers don't handle little grub screws well. But I had spares so didn't drop any. Cheers Danny SM 299 Ocean Pearl
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Re: Yanmar 75HP - Cannot go over 2300 RPM
Sorry Dominique,
Autoprop.....700-1000 hours or when the bearings feel rough, they need replacing, not that difficult, but some special tools required....you can find the complete instructions online ...google Autoprop service. Otherwise, grease the bearings of the three blades through the removable screws,( you need a special grease nipple), every time you haul out... Cheers Alan Elyse SM437
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Re: Yanmar 75HP - Cannot go over 2300 RPM
Hi Dominique,
We are hauled out at Gulf Harbour, Auckland, because of caramel C-drive oil....and some keel scrapes that need attention. I've done the C-drive, now waiting on the keel. Amel recommendation to change the C-drive bague d'usure, seals and oil is 800 hrs / 2 years. Trust this of help. Where in NZ is your Amel ? Avec mes salutations les meilleures Alan Elsyse SM437
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