Date   

website search function not working

drdavegoodman
 

Is there a problem with the website search function? I seem to have
lost search capability. Might be a problem with my own computer
settings?
Thanks
Dave


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Lofrans Windlass Control Box

michael grunstein <mgrunstein2002@...>
 

I had a faulty readout, it just counted up and then
down continuously without even operating the anchor.
I finaly replaced the electronic guts, inside the boat
above the sink counter, as well as the transducer on
the windlass. Problem solved.

Michael Grunstein, #345, Yonita
--- Ian Shepherd <sv_freespirit@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:

Hi Judy and Bill,

Glad you fixed the problem OK and thanks for sharing
the fix with us in case
we have the same problem. I have been having a
related problem the past two
summers with my chain counter that has been driving
me nuts. It works
perfectly in mild temperatures, but once it gets
above about 33C, the
readout goes haywire then freezes. You can anchor
successfully and then
watch the chain counter slowly count down to zero
then go to negative
numbers over a period of time, so when you weigh
anchor, you don't know when
it is coming on board, though I do find that my
forward looking sonar set to
the 6M range does show the chain angle and the
anchor itself.

I really have not proved if the problem lies in the
counter sensor or the
instrument itself. Tests have been inconclusive. Has
anyone else had this
problem and can shed some light on where the fault
lies please?

Ian Shepherd SM 414 Crusader



[Non-text portions of this message have been
removed]




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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Watermaker Dead

Ian Shepherd
 

Hi Ed,

The board came from Dessaltor after voicing my concerns to Amel about the
inherent problems with the old board on a long voyage. I don't have a part
number, but having had some correspondence with the subcontractor that built
it, I would suspect that all Dessalator water makers will use this board in
future.

Cheers

Ian

-------Original Message-------

From: edmund_steele
Date: 07/09/2007 05:13:30
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Watermaker Dead

Gary,
I am back aboard. (Jerusalem was great!) Couple of things.

First, all of my voltage measurements were referenced to Pin 1 ground.

Second, I noticed that my board does not have the C1 capacitor, just
the rectifier.
I retested the voltage on Pin 5 and determined that it is 24V DC. I
measured and confirmed continuity between both Pin 4 and Pin 5 and
the output positive terminal of the rotary switch with Plug 1
disconnected from the board. That is, there is NO AC going to my
control board. Except for the missing C1, my board looks just like
your photo.

Thanks for your diagnosis of the failed T1 and fried RY1, RY2, RY3
relays. This is what I had surmised. However, we have no chance of
getting replacement parts for months yet.

I have now have components for my "manual control" box and will hook
this up today and make sure everything works.

Ian,
That is great news about the new Dessalator board that actually does
what it is supposed to do. Do they have a name or part number for it?
Did you get it from Amel or Dessalator?

Ed

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, amelliahona <no_reply@...>
wrote:

Judy: I will keep it on the forum as requested. I just didn't
want to
bore anybody.

I have used your old board to verify some of what I have written.
I
have not attempted to fix it because I didn't have access to a 220
VAC
50 Hz power supply for testing, but now that I know that the board
doesn't take 220 volts, I just need to verify the correct input
voltage
and perhaps I can repair yours. Or at the very least I can bypass
the
power supply part and verify the logic/relays work.

On another note, I am now on page 8 of a Users Guide, including
troubleshooting, photos of all components and specifications. I
will
post parts of it in the files section as it is complete. Please
note
any ammendments (notated in the header) when referencing this
item as it is a work in progress. I have already updated the file
entitled Logic Board Schematic.pdf to reflect the discoveries of
yesterday.

The NAIS JSI-12v relays on the logic board are $1.49 USD each and
the T1 & T2 voltage regulators (Motorola 7812CT and 7805CT) are
$0.39 USD each I just ordered ten of each for spares and trouble
shooting.

Happy sailing Judy,

Gary

"Judy" <sailingjudy@> wrote:

Gary and Ed,

I have been reading all of your posts with keen interest and am
trying
to produce a troubleshooting guide with all of the info.

I would appresciate it if you kept your posts on the Amel forum,
or if
not, copy me at KE5FTK at winlink.org.

Best,

Bill Rouse s/v BeBe SM2 #387
sailing with Captain Judy in Curacao


Re: Watermaker Dead

edmund_steele
 

Gary,
I am back aboard. (Jerusalem was great!) Couple of things.

First, all of my voltage measurements were referenced to Pin 1 ground.

Second, I noticed that my board does not have the C1 capacitor, just
the rectifier.
I retested the voltage on Pin 5 and determined that it is 24V DC. I
measured and confirmed continuity between both Pin 4 and Pin 5 and
the output positive terminal of the rotary switch with Plug 1
disconnected from the board. That is, there is NO AC going to my
control board. Except for the missing C1, my board looks just like
your photo.

Thanks for your diagnosis of the failed T1 and fried RY1, RY2, RY3
relays. This is what I had surmised. However, we have no chance of
getting replacement parts for months yet.

I have now have components for my "manual control" box and will hook
this up today and make sure everything works.

Ian,
That is great news about the new Dessalator board that actually does
what it is supposed to do. Do they have a name or part number for it?
Did you get it from Amel or Dessalator?

Ed


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, amelliahona <no_reply@...>
wrote:

Judy: I will keep it on the forum as requested. I just didn't
want to
bore anybody.

I have used your old board to verify some of what I have written.
I
have not attempted to fix it because I didn't have access to a 220
VAC
50 Hz power supply for testing, but now that I know that the board
doesn't take 220 volts, I just need to verify the correct input
voltage
and perhaps I can repair yours. Or at the very least I can bypass
the
power supply part and verify the logic/relays work.

On another note, I am now on page 8 of a Users Guide, including
troubleshooting, photos of all components and specifications. I
will
post parts of it in the files section as it is complete. Please
note
any ammendments (notated in the header) when referencing this
item as it is a work in progress. I have already updated the file
entitled Logic Board Schematic.pdf to reflect the discoveries of
yesterday.

The NAIS JSI-12v relays on the logic board are $1.49 USD each and
the T1 & T2 voltage regulators (Motorola 7812CT and 7805CT) are
$0.39 USD each I just ordered ten of each for spares and trouble
shooting.

Happy sailing Judy,

Gary

"Judy" <sailingjudy@> wrote:

Gary and Ed,

I have been reading all of your posts with keen interest and am
trying
to produce a troubleshooting guide with all of the info.

I would appresciate it if you kept your posts on the Amel forum,
or if
not, copy me at KE5FTK at winlink.org.

Best,

Bill Rouse s/v BeBe SM2 #387
sailing with Captain Judy in Curacao


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Lofrans Windlass Control Box

svmalaika@...
 

I have had a similar, but nowhere near as severe, problem with our chain
counter in hot weather. I suspect the problem is with the temperature
sensitivity of the LCD display. I have been meaning to test my theory by waiting until
the problem occurs and then cooling the display unit using a portable fan
blowing over a bowl of ice cubes. Unfortunately summer is ending here in the Med
so my "test" will have wait until next year. Anyone in the tropics with this
problem care to try the "test" and report their findings?

Charlie
S/V MALAIKA II
Barcelona, SPAIN



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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Lofrans Windlass Control Box

Ian Shepherd
 

Hi Judy and Bill,

Glad you fixed the problem OK and thanks for sharing the fix with us in case
we have the same problem. I have been having a related problem the past two
summers with my chain counter that has been driving me nuts. It works
perfectly in mild temperatures, but once it gets above about 33C, the
readout goes haywire then freezes. You can anchor successfully and then
watch the chain counter slowly count down to zero then go to negative
numbers over a period of time, so when you weigh anchor, you don't know when
it is coming on board, though I do find that my forward looking sonar set to
the 6M range does show the chain angle and the anchor itself.

I really have not proved if the problem lies in the counter sensor or the
instrument itself. Tests have been inconclusive. Has anyone else had this
problem and can shed some light on where the fault lies please?

Ian Shepherd SM 414 Crusader


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Watermaker Dead

Ian Shepherd
 

Hi Gary,

I am not sure if you know yet but Dessalator have come up with a new board
that really does what it is supposed to with regards to bad water being
diverted overboard. I have fitted one and done several tests to prove the
detection circuits. I have used it for a months cruising and it has worked
fine. The water in my tank was noticeably sweeter than before. This is
probably because most times it took more than the standard two minutes to
produce acceptable water.

Today it did not allow any water into the tank. Sampling the bypassed water
and testing with my Hanna TDS meter showed that I have developed a membrane
problem, so the new board proved to be doing what it should.

The new board is very easy to fit. It mounts on the same posts in the box
that contains the old board and the edge connectors are the same.

I hope that this is of help to you and others. Of course it should have been
like this in the first place!

Cheers

Ian Shepherd SM 414 Crusader


Lofrans Windlass Control Box

Judy Rouse
 

A few weeks ago our windlass began to act up when switched to the DOWN
position from either the cockpit or the foot switch. After a little
troubleshooting, we diagnosed this intermittent problem as a faulty
control box. We contacted the Lofrans distributor in the US who
informed us that Lofrans no longer made the control box. He said that
they carried a universal replacement made by Imtra. With FedEx
charges delivered in the US, the new control box was about $200 USD.

As it turned out we had friends flying to Curacao to visit us so they
volunteered to purchase the control box from the distributor and
deliver it to us.

Our friends returned to the US yesterday so I decided to replace the
faulty control box today. I pulled out the board that it is mounted
on and removed the control box. As I did this, I admired how much
effort and attention to detail Amel puts into the solenoid mounting
panel in the forward port-side locker. If you have not looked at
this, you should.

Before I mounted the new control box I noticed that the old one had 4
screws securing the top of the box...so I decided to take a look
inside. I found that the solenoid contacts were hardly burned. I
cleaned the contacts and when I was putting things back together I
noticed something inside the "DOWN" solenoid. I removed a small piece
of black plastic sheet about the size of a paper hole-punch. This
piece of plastic was lodged between the solenoid plunger and the "on
end" of the solenoid. I am fairly certain that the intermittent
problem with the DOWN solenoid was caused this piece of plastic
interfering with the travel of the solenoid plunger.

Apparently Lofrans designed the control box to allow service and
cleaning of the solenoid contacts...I like that...Oh sure, the new
improved "non-Lofrans brand" control box is waterproof...in my book
all that means is that you cannot service and clean the
contacts...More significantly, who really needs a waterproof control
box if you mount it in the right place?

I put the old box back together and wired it up...it works perfectly.

I learned something today...look closer at what I am about to replace
before buying a replacement part.

Best,

Bill Rouse, sailing with Captain Judy
s/v BeBe SM2 #387
at anchor in Curacao


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Watermaker Schematics and Owners Manual

Richard Piller <richard03801@...>
 

Thanks for making the effort and most of all taking
the time to put this all together.
Richard SM 209

--- Judy <sailingjudy@gmail.com> wrote:

Thanks Gary...these are very good and will be VERY
helpful.

Bill Rouse Sailing with Captain Judy
S/V BeBe SM2 #387
Anchored in Curacao

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, amelliahona
<no_reply@...> wrote:

Hi All:

I have finally started to transfer my written
notes and
drawings to something presentable. I have
uploaded
several new files including some data sheets on
components for the logic board. I have uploaded
1st drafts of the first two chapters of an
owners/service
manual for the Dessalator watermaker. I have also
uploaded a schematic of the Logic Board (P1,
Relays,
Fuses, input wiring, Rectifier/Voltage regulator
circuits
etc.). There is more to come so stay tuned.

Regards to all,

Gary Silver s/v Liahona Amel SM 2000 Hull #
335




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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Watermaker Schematics and Owners Manual

dlm48@...
 

the man is on a mission :-)

regards

David

In a message dated 06/09/2007 14:10:31 GMT Daylight Time,
richard03801@yahoo.com writes:

Thanks for making the effort and most of all taking
the time to put this all together.
Richard SM 209


Re: Watermaker Schematics and Owners Manual

Judy Rouse
 

Thanks Gary...these are very good and will be VERY helpful.

Bill Rouse Sailing with Captain Judy
S/V BeBe SM2 #387
Anchored in Curacao

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, amelliahona <no_reply@...> wrote:

Hi All:

I have finally started to transfer my written notes and
drawings to something presentable. I have uploaded
several new files including some data sheets on
components for the logic board. I have uploaded
1st drafts of the first two chapters of an owners/service
manual for the Dessalator watermaker. I have also
uploaded a schematic of the Logic Board (P1, Relays,
Fuses, input wiring, Rectifier/Voltage regulator circuits
etc.). There is more to come so stay tuned.

Regards to all,

Gary Silver s/v Liahona Amel SM 2000 Hull # 335


Watermaker Schematics and Owners Manual

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Hi All:

I have finally started to transfer my written notes and
drawings to something presentable. I have uploaded
several new files including some data sheets on
components for the logic board. I have uploaded
1st drafts of the first two chapters of an owners/service
manual for the Dessalator watermaker. I have also
uploaded a schematic of the Logic Board (P1, Relays,
Fuses, input wiring, Rectifier/Voltage regulator circuits
etc.). There is more to come so stay tuned.

Regards to all,

Gary Silver s/v Liahona Amel SM 2000 Hull # 335


Re: Watermaker Dead

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Judy: I will keep it on the forum as requested. I just didn't want to
bore anybody.

I have used your old board to verify some of what I have written. I
have not attempted to fix it because I didn't have access to a 220 VAC
50 Hz power supply for testing, but now that I know that the board
doesn't take 220 volts, I just need to verify the correct input voltage
and perhaps I can repair yours. Or at the very least I can bypass the
power supply part and verify the logic/relays work.

On another note, I am now on page 8 of a Users Guide, including
troubleshooting, photos of all components and specifications. I will
post parts of it in the files section as it is complete. Please note
any ammendments (notated in the header) when referencing this
item as it is a work in progress. I have already updated the file
entitled Logic Board Schematic.pdf to reflect the discoveries of
yesterday.

The NAIS JSI-12v relays on the logic board are $1.49 USD each and
the T1 & T2 voltage regulators (Motorola 7812CT and 7805CT) are
$0.39 USD each I just ordered ten of each for spares and trouble
shooting.

Happy sailing Judy,

Gary

"Judy" <sailingjudy@...> wrote:


Gary and Ed,

I have been reading all of your posts with keen interest and am trying
to produce a troubleshooting guide with all of the info.

I would appresciate it if you kept your posts on the Amel forum, or if
not, copy me at KE5FTK at winlink.org.

Best,

Bill Rouse s/v BeBe SM2 #387
sailing with Captain Judy in Curacao


Re: Watermaker Dead

Judy Rouse
 

Gary and Ed,

I have been reading all of your posts with keen interest and am trying
to produce a troubleshooting guide with all of the info.

I would appresciate it if you kept your posts on the Amel forum, or if
not, copy me at KE5FTK at winlink.org.

Best,

Bill Rouse s/v BeBe SM2 #387
sailing with Captain Judy in Curacao

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, amelliahona <no_reply@...> wrote:

... Ed if you want to take this ongoing trouble shooting off the
forum please feel free to email me directly at
AgCEagle at comcast dot net

Regards, Gary


Re: Watermaker Dead

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

STOP THE PRESSES: Ed I deduced some new information related to:

" I rechecked all of the pins on Plug #1. With the 220 V breaker
turned "ON" and the panel rotary switch turned "ON" and with
the plug connected to the board, I had:

Pin #4 53V with the meter set on AC and 24 V with the meter set
to DC (I got the same results testing Fuse F1)"

Dessalator told me via email over a year ago that pin 4 is 220
VAC. THIS CAN NOT BE CORRECT. Based on the Spec. Sheet for
T1 (7812 voltage regulator), the max Vi (input voltage is 35
Volts DC). This input voltage comes directly input from the
bridge rectifier/filter capacitor (C1). There is NO WAY FOR
220 VAC to be rectified and filtered and end up with 35 VDC.
However, 53 VAC would be rectified and filtered to
approximately 24-25 Volts AC.

To answer this questions we need to know: WHAT IS THE
AC VOLTAGE BETWEEN PLUG 1 PIN 1 AND PIN 4 with the
breaker on. If it is indeed about 53 Volts AC then
where does that voltage come from. There must be a small
transformer somewhere that steps the 220 VAC down to about
53 VAC. We need to trace the red wire on P1 pin 4 and
see where it goes. The transformer is not on the logic board.

The DC input voltage to the 7812 (T1) voltage regulator
must be at least 2 volts more than the output voltage (per
the spec sheet) and we know that the output voltage HAS
TO BE 12 VDC because that is what RY1, RY2, and RY3
require. So I believe there is definitely a problem with T1.

The 24 VDC that you read on pin 4 is just your multimeter
trying to measure AC voltage.

Lastly, it will be important to see if the 24 Volt DC out of T1
has burned up the control coils of RY1, RY2, and RY 3. You
could test them with a 12 VDC source to see if they still
energize (clicking sound). I'll try and post a photo showing
the pins to apply 12 volts DC to to test them.

Ed if you want to take this ongoing trouble shooting off the
forum please feel free to email me directly at
AgCEagle at comcast dot net

Regards, Gary


Re: Holding tanks for Super Maramu

spence_alan <no_reply@...>
 

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "hibibif2006"
<f.bizzarro@...> wrote:

I'm owning since 6 month a Super Maramu (056, 1991).
Since there are many areas where damping the toilet is forbidden,
my question is if anybody has installed a holding tank for the two
toilets,
and how it was done.

Thanks for any advise

Fedi
Fedi,
I have a 1987 Mango. I'm not sure of all the differences, but a
holding tank was installed under the port bed in the v-berth. For
the aft head, I installed a Lectra-san system. The combination seems
to work well.

Alan
sv Charisma, Mango #62


Re: Watermaker Dead

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Ed:
Regarding
" I tested the pins on T1 and T2. with fuses to the "top":
T1 left pin 21.8V center pin ~ 0 right pin 23.5V
(should be ~ 12V?)"

I just uploaded to the Files section the data sheet for T1
This voltage regulator is made by many different manufacturers
and in many different voltage configurations, but this
data sheet is typical and is the exact one for the motorloa
chips on my logic board and should be representative for
your KA7812 chips.

Gary


Re: {Disarmed} [Amel Yacht Owners] Sun Shade for Amel SM

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

John:

Regarding the sun shade, excellent suggestion, key word cheap.

Thanks,

Gary


Re: Watermaker Dead

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Hi Ed:

Great work. When looking at these voltages I need to always know
what ground source you are referencing.

Ed wrote (enclosed in " " :

" Pin #4 53V with the meter set on AC and 24 V with the
meter set to DC. (I got the same results testing Fuse F1)"

I can't explain this. Where you using pin 1 as the ground for these
measurements? In fairness the only source I have for pin 4 being
220 VAC is from Dessalator (a notoriously unreliable source of
informatiion on this subject), as I have not measured or traced
those wires myself. To clear this up, perhaps you would do the
following and let me know what you find:
1. unplug plug 1 (P1)
2. with the 220 VAC breaker set and the 24 VDC panel switch ON
3. measure the voltage (both DC and AC) between pin 1 and pin 4
4. and (with power off) trace the red wire from pin 4 to see where
it goes (I can't make out its origin from the photos I have here.

"After a couple of minutes, Pin #5 thru Pin #11 all showed 24V DC –
did not test when this happened timewise. "

This would be appropriate as this essentiallly provides "activating"
24 VDC power (and return) to the following:
1, hi pressure pump relay,
2, low pressure pump relay, and
3. bypass solenoid.
The control side (i.e. sinking pins 7, 9, & 11 to ground) is controlled
through relays RY1, RY2, & RY3.
Furthermore this seems to imply that the logic board timer circuit
and some of the other ICs are functioning properly.

" I tested the pins on T1 and T2. with fuses to the "top":
T1 left pin 21.8V center pin ~ 0 right pin 23.5V
(should be ~ 12V?)"

Again, please verify what you were using as the ground for your
multi-meter when making these measurements. The right pin
should be 12 VDC, the center pin is ground (0 volts DC)), and the
left pin is the input from the full bridge rectifier/capacitor C1
combination. It is dependant on the input AC voltage on pin 4
(hence my need to know that voltage accurately). It may be that
T1 is shorted ?????, or the rectifier is gone????? and this is the cause
of your failure(s)?????? That would be a fairly logical failure mode.

" T2 left pin 21.6V center pin ~ 0 right pin 5.6V
(correct voltage)"

This seems correct except I would have expected a 12 VDC voltage
on the left pin. The approx 5 VDC output voltage is appropriate,
and is what is fed to all the ICs and is why the green logic board
LED is appropriately illuminated and your logic board timer is working.

" I next disconnected the Plug#1 and tested between pin #1 and
pin #5. It showed 53V with the meter set on AC and 24 V with the
meter set to DC but only with the rotary switch turned to "ON". With
just the 220V breaker, there was no voltage here."

From this I believe that the 53 VAC you are seeing is an erronious
characteristic of your digital voltmeter when looking at DC voltages
OR that there is a failure mode that is allowing AC to bleed on to the
DC circuits.
To trouble shoot this, I would:
1. with P1 plugged into the logic board
2. measure DC voltage between pins 1 and 4, and between pins 1 & 5
3. do this measurement in each of two configurations, with:
first: with the 220 VAC breaker set on ONLY, (rotary switch off).
second: 220 VAC breaker OFF and only the rotary panel switch on.

"Next I jumpered pin #5 to pin #8 and pin #1 to pin #9. The low
pressure pump came on and ran normally."

Great, that is as it should be. Jumpering pin 5 to 8 provides 24 VDC
to the low pressure pump relay, and jumpering pin 1 to pin 9 provides
a ground return for the relay, thereby achieving what RY1 does, that
is activating thelow pressure pump control relay (the 220 VAC control
relay).

So the manual work around is to have three single pole single
throw switchs. One switch each on pins 7, 9, and 11 with one pole
of each switch to each of those pins and the other pole going to
ground (i.e. pin 1). You then manually throw switch 1, activating
the low pressure pump, wait a bit, then throw switch 2, activating
the high pressure pump, then dial up the pressure until product
water is made, and finally when your electronic EC meter shows
you have truely good product water, you throw switch number three,
diverting the product water to your fresh water tanks. Then, if your
EC meter alarm sounds due to a failure resulting in the production
of poor quality water you turn off switch three and proceed to shut
down the system to make repairs. This is the "logic" that should
have been part of this board, but was not.

"406 KA7812" so it looks like the correct part"

I have confirmed that the output of T1 (aka Motorola 7812 or KA7812)
should be 12 VDC.

"BTW, the high pressure sensor switch was "open".

Thanks Ed. That confirms what I was theorizing.

"It shuts down the system at 68/70 bars."

That is between 986 and 1015 psi.

Regards,

Gary


Amel Maramu - keel rust at join

Shann, Mark V <shannmv@...>
 

Dear owners,

I have a 1985 Maramu and last year replaced the "fibreglass below water
line" to resolve some minor osmosis bubbles. This worked very well, but
now the hull is back in the water I have a line of rust that has
appeared at the fibreglass to iron join on the keel, mainly at the back
of the keel stock. I believe this is due to minor flexing between the
two materials and then water getting into a small crack.

Plan is to take the boat out of the water, remove a thin strip of
fibreglass over the join and put in a more flexible compound to seal the
join while allowing slightly more flexibility.

Has anyone seen this before, any ideas on the porposed plan and anyone
know of a good flexible compound to use?

Best Regards,

Mark Shann
Synnefoula