Date   
Replacing fridge

Warren Traill
 

We have a Sharki #15 and it's time to improve our refridgeration. We have a space under a seat in the saloon where an old fridge/freezer is, though never worked while we have owned Manon. Also have a small Norcold fridge next to the sink. Would appreciate any ideas about replacing what we have.

Cheers,
Zetta Traill
Manon Two #15

Re: Smoking generator

Alan Leslie
 

Yes...white smoke is most likely unburnt fuel...or less likely, water vapour in the exhaust.
Put your hands over the exhaust ...if it smells of diesel , it's unburnt fuel 
If that is the case, then perhaps one cylinder is not firing..you should be able to hear / feel that...
OR if the weather is cold when you start the engine and it goes away as the engine warms up, then you've got a compression problem...piston rings / valve seats....
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] rust on inox cable [1 Attachment]

Alan Leslie
 

I think this is a common problem...
i have taken off all the white plastic on the rigging except where sheets rub against the shrouds, and then I have replaced the original stuff with a size larger, so it turns as the sheet  moves past it...Plastimo have a lot of different sizes available.
As for the corrosion at the swage ends, i have two products..one is INOX which the previous owner swore by and left on board, and the other is a NZ product called GRUNT.
They both work in a similar fashion. Paint it on, leave for about 15 minutes and then hose off with fresh water.
Result : rusty marks all gone
Grunt works well on gel coat too...for rusty marks..e.g. on deck at the bow where the anchor chain comes up.
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Convert Incandescent Light Fixtures to LED for $1

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Duane,

Since you are probably buying LEDs made in China, why not go to eBay and buy Chinese LEDs for about $2.50 each?

I bought a total of about 30 LEDs and had only one bad one. 

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
+1(832) 380-4970

On Feb 28, 2017 20:21, "sailor63109@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

I posted photo's to show the process I used to convert the incandescent fixture over the helm and those in the engine room to LED lights (the G4 pin type).  I did this mainly so I could have a bi-color light at the helm, but went ahead and converted the ones in the engine room as well (especially since one of the engine room lights had a socket go bad). 


The round LED's that fit a G4 (two wire pin type) light fixture can be had pretty bright so they work better in the engine room than the typical Bay15d LED.  Also I have a tendency to forget to turn the engine room lights out during the daytime, and the LED's burn a lot fewer amps.


The new G4 light socket is 10 for $3 on Ebay, then all you need is a small bit of JB Waterweld to glue it to the existing light fixture.  Hook up the wires to the e xisting switch, reinstall it and you're done!


I'm not an electrician, but it looks ok.  I wouldn't completely encase the new G4 socket with the JB so it can still dissipate heat.


The whole thing is less than $1 to convert, and then you'll have to buy a $15 LED.


Duane

Wanderer, SM#477

Smoking generator

Graham Boyd
 

My Onan MDKDP 6.5, was unused for about 6 months. Now, on start up and before any load is applied it produces large amounts of white smoke (the smell tells me this is unburnt fuel). This smoke persists even when the engine is warm.As soon as I apply load to the generator (aircon etc) the level of smoke drops drastically and becomes slight darker. My thoughts are this is probably a fuel supply or pump problem as the injectors have already been changed.


Any thoughts or similar first hand experience?


Graham

SM140 Sula

Hong Kong


ps full rebuilds in this town are rarely cost effective!


Convert Incandescent Light Fixtures to LED for $1

sailor63109@...
 

I posted photo's to show the process I used to convert the incandescent fixture over the helm and those in the engine room to LED lights (the G4 pin type).  I did this mainly so I could have a bi-color light at the helm, but went ahead and converted the ones in the engine room as well (especially since one of the engine room lights had a socket go bad). 


The round LED's that fit a G4 (two wire pin type) light fixture can be had pretty bright so they work better in the engine room than the typical Bay15d LED.  Also I have a tendency to forget to turn the engine room lights out during the daytime, and the LED's burn a lot fewer amps.


The new G4 light socket is 10 for $3 on Ebay, then all you need is a small bit of JB Waterweld to glue it to the existing light fixture.  Hook up the wires to the existing switch, reinstall it and you're done!


I'm not an electrician, but it looks ok.  I wouldn't completely encase the new G4 socket with the JB so it can still dissipate heat.


The whole thing is less than $1 to convert, and then you'll have to buy a $15 LED.


Duane

Wanderer, SM#477

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Replacement Genoa furling motor electrical cable

eric freedman
 

Where are you located?

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Tuesday, February 28, 2017 2:49 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Replacement Genoa furling motor electrical cable

 

 

Does anyone have a source for the Genoa furling motor cable?  The closest I can find is three conductor yellow shorepower cable #6 AWG.  I haven't been able to find black.  UV resistance and flexibility is very important.

 

I may end up using yellow with a Sunbrella cover

 

Steve Leeds

Yacht MACCABEE

Sharki #121

 

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Replacement Genoa furling motor electrical cable

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Steve,

I bet Amel (sav"at"amel.fr) has some of the exact cable because they have used it for many years.

Bill
X-BeBe
Galveston

On Tue, Feb 28, 2017 at 1:48 PM, yachtmaccabee@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Does anyone have a source for the Genoa furling motor cable?  The closest I can find is three conductor yellow shorepower cable #6 AWG.  I haven't been able to find black.  UV resistance and flexibility is very important.


I may end up using yellow with a Sunbrella cover


Steve Leeds

Yacht MACCABEE

Sharki #121



Replacement Genoa furling motor electrical cable

Steve Leeds
 

Does anyone have a source for the Genoa furling motor cable?  The closest I can find is three conductor yellow shorepower cable #6 AWG.  I haven't been able to find black.  UV resistance and flexibility is very important.


I may end up using yellow with a Sunbrella cover


Steve Leeds

Yacht MACCABEE

Sharki #121


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] rust on inox cable [1 Attachment]

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Dieter,

I saw your photo. 

Since water runs down the wire it will accumulate near the swage fitting and under the plastic. I believe that if you want to use plastic over the wire that there should be about 25mm from the end of the plastic and the swage fitting. This will help you two ways.
  1. Water will not accumulate and the wire-to-fitting area will dry completely
  2. It makes it easy to visually inspect this vulnerable area every time you pass by them.
I hope this helps.

Bill
X-BeBe
Galveston Island

On Tue, Feb 28, 2017 at 12:07 PM, inusbusch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 
[Attachment(s) from inusbusch@... [amelyachtowners] included below]

On my old rigging I had rust at the connection where the inox cable entered the terminals, caused by minimal water droplets there.


Now I have a new rigging from ACMO and want to protect this parts as much as possible. See attached pic. The answer from ACMO was

“You must wash with a plastic brush where you see the little rust, and you can apply some silicon.”


But I know that there are different types of silicon, so before applying silicon I wanted to ask the group what you are doing to avoid water there, maybe you grease the parts?


Dieter

FAL-LERA Sharki #135



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] rust on inox cable [1 Attachment]

James Alton
 

Dieter,

   Here is what I do:  

1.  Wash/rinse (sometimes with soap if crusty)  the rigging and especially the lower terminals with freshwater to remove salt accumulation.

2.  At least once a year, polish all terminals and as much of the wire as I can reach with a fine metal polish.  (this seems to help a lot in reducing the eventual pitting that often occurs as the rigging ages) 

3.  Apply a coat of good marine wax which often contains silicone such as the Meguiars cleaner wax.  

Besides possibly extending the life of the stainless, this also helps to keep sails and lines clean that rub on the wire when tacking etc.

The idea of spraying the lower terminals/rusty areas with silicone is an interesting idea since it might help keep water from sitting in the terminal.  I will be curious to see what others have to say.  I am installing new ACMO rigging on my Maramu which replaces the original 29 year old wire and fittings that was still in serviceable shape.

Best of luck,

James Alton

SV Sueno
Amel Maramu #220

On Feb 28, 2017, at 1:07 PM, inusbusch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

[Attachment(s) from inusbusch@... [amelyachtowners] included below]

On my old rigging I had rust at the connection where the inox cable entered the terminals, caused by minimal water droplets there. 


Now I have a new rigging from ACMO and want to protect this parts as much as possible. See attached pic. The answer from ACMO was

“You must wash with a plastic brush where you see the little rust, and you can apply some silicon.”


But I know that there are different types of silicon, so before applying silicon I wanted to ask the group what you are doing to avoid water there, maybe you grease the parts?


Dieter

FAL-LERA Sharki #135




rust on inox cable

INUS - BUSCH
 

On my old rigging I had rust at the connection where the inox cable entered the terminals, caused by minimal water droplets there.


Now I have a new rigging from ACMO and want to protect this parts as much as possible. See attached pic. The answer from ACMO was

“You must wash with a plastic brush where you see the little rust, and you can apply some silicon.”


But I know that there are different types of silicon, so before applying silicon I wanted to ask the group what you are doing to avoid water there, maybe you grease the parts?


Dieter

FAL-LERA Sharki #135


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Nav Instruments on SM

alainfeuillet@...
 

Peter, I did replace my Hydra330 FFD which had no NMEA In/output by an Hercules2000 FFD which has the NMEA connection. It is enough and it has been working fine for five years. I connected it to my NMEA network allowing in particular to sail to the wind with my ST7002 A/P and get magnetic heading from it as well .
If Tinley has no solution you can try at Myles Electronic who supllied mewith this Hercules.
Fair wind
Alain (S/V Pilgrim)


---In amelyachtowners@..., <yahoogroups@...> wrote :

Peter,

Email Sarah Pidgley sarah@...

Tell her hi from Bill s/v BeBe.

I think that Sarah is the best one to answer specific questions, but I thought that even early model FFDs had NEMA 0183 OUT & IN. Sarah will tell you. Tinley will repair many B&G components and sometimes has refurbished components for sale. In my experience, Raymarine is great for autopilots, but I believe they are outclassed in most other categories. 

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
+1(832) 380-4970

On Feb 27, 2017 19:17, "Peter Jaeger mallamok@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Thank you Bill, that's realy briliant.

Now, my only speed indication is SOG from GPS and that is good enough. For the Ultra Sonic Speed from NKE, I would have to drill a new hole the get SOW. I think I am quite happy with SOG, even with some log-errors with strong curents. I will contact Tinley. What's the best contact, Sarah was her name?

If I want to upgrade my Hydra System to NMEA, would it be good enough to upgrade ONE FFD or do I have to do that with all components (2xFFD plus Processor)?

Peter

SY Wilson, SM#003, La Rochelle



Replacing a 22 year old Onan

Graham Boyd
 

It looks like Sula's Onan MDKDP 6.5 generator engine is either up for a major overhaul or complete replacement.


For those of you who have replaced this same unit on your boats what did you go for?


The closest that Onan now manufactures, the 7.5/6.0  MDKBJ?...or something else?


Any comments/ advice?


Graham

Sula SM140

Hong Kong

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Nav Instruments on SM

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Peter,

Email Sarah Pidgley sarah@...

Tell her hi from Bill s/v BeBe.

I think that Sarah is the best one to answer specific questions, but I thought that even early model FFDs had NEMA 0183 OUT & IN. Sarah will tell you. Tinley will repair many B&G components and sometimes has refurbished components for sale. In my experience, Raymarine is great for autopilots, but I believe they are outclassed in most other categories. 

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
+1(832) 380-4970

On Feb 27, 2017 19:17, "Peter Jaeger mallamok@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Thank you Bill, that's realy briliant.

Now, my only speed indication is SOG from GPS and that is good enough. For the Ultra Sonic Speed from NKE, I would have to drill a new hole the get SOW. I think I am quite happy with SOG, even with some log-errors with strong curents. I will contact Tinley. What's the best contact, Sarah was her name?

If I want to upgrade my Hydra System to NMEA, would it be good enough to upgrade ONE FFD or do I have to do that with all components (2xFFD plus Processor)?

Peter

SY Wilson, SM#003, La Rochelle



Gesendet von Yahoo Mail für iPad

Am Montag, Februar 27, 2017, 23:26 schrieb 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>:

 

Peter,

It sounds like you may be looking for another option...

One option is to display SOG on the analog B&G cockpit gauges and on the Hydra FFD rather than SOW by installing a NMEA paddlewheel. 

The NMEA Paddlewheel device connects to a data port on the GPS, reads the GPS NMEA sentences and finds SOG. It then translates that SOG into B&G language as SOW. If you are a sailing purest, SOW may be important to you if you must know how much current is impacting your SOG, but remember SOG is what really counts and gets you where you are going. 

This solution may be the best for you. It is simple to install: 2 wires connect to 12VDC at the Hydra toggle switch, 2 wires connect to NMEA data OUT on your GPS and 2 wires connect to the B&G computer at the same place that sonic speed or paddlewheel connect.


NMEA Paddlewheel

NMEA Paddlewheel

The NMEA Paddlewheel converts NMEA from either a GPS or electromagnetic log to a paddlewheel output suitable for connecting directly to an instrument system, such as a B&G Hydra/Hercules.

Retail price £295.00

Bill
BeBe 387


On Mon, Feb 27, 2017 at 2:55 PM, mallamok@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
 

Hi everybody

Since one year I am refitting a older SM in La Rochelle (1989, SM #3).

I am quite happy, the old Lady is pretty again.

I installed a new Radar (Simrad 4G), an NAIS 400 and both are connected to a Lowrance HDS10 1 Gen. Works excellent. The B&G equippment is the original one, a Hydra 330, with 4 analog Instruments in the Cockpit (no NMEA), one Hydra330 FFD at the Chart table and one Hydra2 FFD, both none NMEA:

The sonic Speed is not working correctly anymore, the is Speed, but never more than 2 knots, regardless of the SOG on the GPS. Since there are no spares anymore for the Sonic Speed from B@G, Stephane from Pochon recommend a Ultra Sonic Speed Sensor from NKE, which should be compatible with my Hydra, good News but.... it is about 1000 Euro!

My dream is to have the Hydra upgraded to NMEA Protocoll, to have wind and Autopilot connected (also an old Autohelm ST700, Type300, Rotary Drive Type2).

What do you experienced guys recommend, shall I keep/upgrade my old Equipment (I already replaced the wind 321 when I bought my boat) or shall I replace the old ones with a Triton or Raymarine System. One reason why I am asking: I like the analoge Instruments in the Cockpit more than digital ones. But I am afraid that upgrading is much more expensive. Good advices are very wellcome.

Cheers

Peter

SY Wilson, SM#003, La Rochelle


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Nav Instruments on SM

Peter Jaeger
 




Gesendet von Yahoo Mail für iPad

Am Dienstag, Februar 28, 2017, 01:20 schrieb svperegrinus@... [amelyachtowners] :

 

Bill's solution is brilliant.  That's what I would do.


We never had beautiful B&G analogues, as hull #350 came from the factory with an all-Raytheon cockpit (and an all-Furuno nav table).  So in 2013 we replaced the Raytheon instruments with B&G Triton displays.  The Tritons are amazing, from displaying "analog" gauges, to 10, 20, 30 min historicals, to doing most of what a chart plotter usually does.

Here's what's bad about the Tritons: at night, you set them to night mode: red light on a black background, but the red, which is direct lighting, will still negatively impact your night vision.  So you lower the brightness.  The problem is that when you dim them as much as you need, then you can't really read them!

There are now Triton2 instruments which may have better screens.  Something to consider.

Peregrinus
Venice

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Nav Instruments on SM

Peter Jaeger
 

Thank you Bill, that's realy briliant.
Now, my only speed indication is SOG from GPS and that is good enough. For the Ultra Sonic Speed from NKE, I would have to drill a new hole the get SOW. I think I am quite happy with SOG, even with some log-errors with strong curents. I will contact Tinley. What's the best contact, Sarah was her name?

If I want to upgrade my Hydra System to NMEA, would it be good enough to upgrade ONE FFD or do I have to do that with all components (2xFFD plus Processor)?

Peter

SY Wilson, SM#003, La Rochelle



Gesendet von Yahoo Mail für iPad

Am Montag, Februar 27, 2017, 23:26 schrieb 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] :

 

Peter,

It sounds like you may be looking for another option...

One option is to display SOG on the analog B&G cockpit gauges and on the Hydra FFD rather than SOW by installing a NMEA paddlewheel. 

The NMEA Paddlewheel device connects to a data port on the GPS, reads the GPS NMEA sentences and finds SOG. It then translates that SOG into B&G language as SOW. If you are a sailing purest, SOW may be important to you if you must know how much current is impacting your SOG, but remember SOG is what really counts and gets you where you are going. 

This solution may be the best for you. It is simple to install: 2 wires connect to 12VDC at the Hydra toggle switch, 2 wires connect to NMEA data OUT on your GPS and 2 wires connect to the B&G computer at the same place that sonic speed or paddlewheel connect.


NMEA Paddlewheel

NMEA Paddlewheel

The NMEA Paddlewheel converts NMEA from either a GPS or electromagnetic log to a paddlewheel output suitable for connecting directly to an instrument system, such as a B&G Hydra/Hercules.

Retail price £295.00

Bill
BeBe 387


On Mon, Feb 27, 2017 at 2:55 PM, mallamok@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi everybody

Since one year I am refitting a older SM in La Rochelle (1989, SM #3).

I am quite happy, the old Lady is pretty again.

I installed a new Radar (Simrad 4G), an NAIS 400 and both are connected to a Lowrance HDS10 1 Gen. Works excellent. The B&G equippment is the original one, a Hydra 330, with 4 analog Instruments in the Cockpit (no NMEA), one Hydra330 FFD at the Chart table and one Hydra2 FFD, both none NMEA:

The sonic Speed is not working correctly anymore, the is Speed, but never more than 2 knots, regardless of the SOG on the GPS. Since there are no spares anymore for the Sonic Speed from B@G, Stephane from Pochon recommend a Ultra Sonic Speed Sensor from NKE, which should be compatible with my Hydra, good News but.... it is about 1000 Euro!

My dream is to have the Hydra upgraded to NMEA Protocoll, to have wind and Autopilot connected (also an old Autohelm ST700, Type300, Rotary Drive Type2).

What do you experienced guys recommend, shall I keep/upgrade my old Equipment (I already replaced the wind 321 when I bought my boat) or shall I replace the old ones with a Triton or Raymarine System. One reason why I am asking: I like the analoge Instruments in the Cockpit more than digital ones. But I am afraid that upgrading is much more expensive. Good advices are very wellcome.

Cheers

Peter

SY Wilson, SM#003, La Rochelle


Re: Nav Instruments on SM

svperegrinus@yahoo.com
 

Bill's solution is brilliant.  That's what I would do.

We never had beautiful B&G analogues, as hull #350 came from the factory with an all-Raytheon cockpit (and an all-Furuno nav table).  So in 2013 we replaced the Raytheon instruments with B&G Triton displays.  The Tritons are amazing, from displaying "analog" gauges, to 10, 20, 30 min historicals, to doing most of what a chart plotter usually does.

Here's what's bad about the Tritons: at night, you set them to night mode: red light on a black background, but the red, which is direct lighting, will still negatively impact your night vision.  So you lower the brightness.  The problem is that when you dim them as much as you need, then you can't really read them!

There are now Triton2 instruments which may have better screens.  Something to consider.

Peregrinus
Venice

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Nav Instruments on SM

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Peter,

It sounds like you may be looking for another option...

One option is to display SOG on the analog B&G cockpit gauges and on the Hydra FFD rather than SOW by installing a NMEA paddlewheel. 

The NMEA Paddlewheel device connects to a data port on the GPS, reads the GPS NMEA sentences and finds SOG. It then translates that SOG into B&G language as SOW. If you are a sailing purest, SOW may be important to you if you must know how much current is impacting your SOG, but remember SOG is what really counts and gets you where you are going. 

This solution may be the best for you. It is simple to install: 2 wires connect to 12VDC at the Hydra toggle switch, 2 wires connect to NMEA data OUT on your GPS and 2 wires connect to the B&G computer at the same place that sonic speed or paddlewheel connect.


NMEA Paddlewheel

NMEA Paddlewheel

The NMEA Paddlewheel converts NMEA from either a GPS or electromagnetic log to a paddlewheel output suitable for connecting directly to an instrument system, such as a B&G Hydra/Hercules.

Retail price £295.00

Bill
BeBe 387


On Mon, Feb 27, 2017 at 2:55 PM, mallamok@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hi everybody

Since one year I am refitting a older SM in La Rochelle (1989, SM #3).

I am quite happy, the old Lady is pretty again.

I installed a new Radar (Simrad 4G), an NAIS 400 and both are connected to a Lowrance HDS10 1 Gen. Works excellent. The B&G equippment is the original one, a Hydra 330, with 4 analog Instruments in the Cockpit (no NMEA), one Hydra330 FFD at the Chart table and one Hydra2 FFD, both none NMEA:

The sonic Speed is not working correctly anymore, the is Speed, but never more than 2 knots, regardless of the SOG on the GPS. Since there are no spares anymore for the Sonic Speed from B@G, Stephane from Pochon recommend a Ultra Sonic Speed Sensor from NKE, which should be compatible with my Hydra, good News but.... it is about 1000 Euro!

My dream is to have the Hydra upgraded to NMEA Protocoll, to have wind and Autopilot connected (also an old Autohelm ST700, Type300, Rotary Drive Type2).

What do you experienced guys recommend, shall I keep/upgrade my old Equipment (I already replaced the wind 321 when I bought my boat) or shall I replace the old ones with a Triton or Raymarine System. One reason why I am asking: I like the analoge Instruments in the Cockpit more than digital ones. But I am afraid that upgrading is much more expensive. Good advices are very wellcome.

Cheers

Peter

SY Wilson, SM#003, La Rochelle


Nav Instruments on SM

Peter Jaeger
 

Hi everybody

Since one year I am refitting a older SM in La Rochelle (1989, SM #3).

I am quite happy, the old Lady is pretty again.

I installed a new Radar (Simrad 4G), an NAIS 400 and both are connected to a Lowrance HDS10 1 Gen. Works excellent. The B&G equippment is the original one, a Hydra 330, with 4 analog Instruments in the Cockpit (no NMEA), one Hydra330 FFD at the Chart table and one Hydra2 FFD, both none NMEA:

The sonic Speed is not working correctly anymore, the is Speed, but never more than 2 knots, regardless of the SOG on the GPS. Since there are no spares anymore for the Sonic Speed from B@G, Stephane from Pochon recommend a Ultra Sonic Speed Sensor from NKE, which should be compatible with my Hydra, good News but.... it is about 1000 Euro!

My dream is to have the Hydra upgraded to NMEA Protocoll, to have wind and Autopilot connected (also an old Autohelm ST700, Type300, Rotary Drive Type2).

What do you experienced guys recommend, shall I keep/upgrade my old Equipment (I already replaced the wind 321 when I bought my boat) or shall I replace the old ones with a Triton or Raymarine System. One reason why I am asking: I like the analoge Instruments in the Cockpit more than digital ones. But I am afraid that upgrading is much more expensive. Good advices are very wellcome.

Cheers

Peter

SY Wilson, SM#003, La Rochelle