Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] rust on inox cable

Craig Briggs
 

J-P is quite right that all these $$ products are acids and home brews can work fine. Alan mentioned Grunt which is phosphoric acid based, like Coca-Cola, which works well, too. Or sprinkle a potato with baking soda and rub the rust off. Products like Grunt and Marykate On & Off do have the advantage of having the acid in a gel base which keeps it from drying while it does its work. Or try slicing a lemon half way through and sticking it around the stay wire just above the swage overnight. Has the added advantage that if you have folks over for sun-downers they can add their own twists to their gin & tonics.
Cheers, Craig Briggs, SN#68 Sangaris

---In amelyachtowners@..., <jgermain@...> wrote :

Hello Gang,

FWIW, instead of paying silly prices for these named products, first try white vinegar.. if this does not work use Hydrocloric Acid (HCL) 20% 

RINSE THOROUGHLY AFTER USE… rust all gone

Fair winds,

Jean-Pierre Germain,
SY Eleuthera, SM007
Guadeloupe.


On 1 Mar 2017, at 03:49, divanz620@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

I think this is a common problem...

i have taken off all the white plastic on the rigging except where sheets rub against the shrouds, and then I have replaced the original stuff with a size larger, so it turns as the sheet  moves past it...Plastimo have a lot of different sizes available.
As for the corrosion at the swage ends, i have two products..one is INOX which the previous owner swore by and left on board, and the other is a NZ product called GRUNT.
They both work in a similar fashion. Paint it on, leave for about 15 minutes and then hose off with fresh water.
Result : rusty marks all gone
Grunt works well on gel coat too...for rusty marks..e.g. on deck at the bow where the anchor chain comes up.
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437




Re: Convert Incandescent Light Fixtures to LED for $1

Duane Siegfri
 

Bill K,

Well, first I didn't know they existed!  

But what started me down this path was the bayonet socket in one of the engine room lights failed and had to be replaced.  Since I've changed out the G4 halogen lights for G4 LED's, I thought it would be simpler to have all G4 socketed LED's and so changed the engine room lights over to G4 sockets.  

The other thing to consider is that the BAY15d socketed LED's give all-around light (are there one-sided LED's for this socket?).  It's going to be more efficient if all the LED's are pointed down rather than at the reflector of the fixture so the G4 LED's will be more efficient in a ceiling fixture.

Duane


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] rust on inox cable

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

I am sure that everyone knows this...BUT...

The rigging turnbuckles on any Amel with ACMO rigging are chrome plated bronze. Many winches are also chrome plated bronze. Please do not put any form of acid on chrome plating...it will ruin it. If you accidentally get some on chrome plating, rinse it immediately.

 Acid comes in hull cleaning products like ON-OFF and many others...Be careful.

Bill
X-BeBe

On Wed, Mar 1, 2017 at 3:52 PM, Germain Jean-Pierre jgermain@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hello Gang,


FWIW, instead of paying silly prices for these named products, first try white vinegar.. if this does not work use Hydrocloric Acid (HCL) 20% 

RINSE THOROUGHLY AFTER USE… rust all gone

Fair winds,

Jean-Pierre Germain,
SY Eleuthera, SM007
Guadeloupe.


On 1 Mar 2017, at 03:49, divanz620@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

I think this is a common problem...

i have taken off all the white plastic on the rigging except where sheets rub against the shrouds, and then I have replaced the original stuff with a size larger, so it turns as the sheet  moves past it...Plastimo have a lot of different sizes available.
As for the corrosion at the swage ends, i have two products..one is INOX which the previous owner swore by and left on board, and the other is a NZ product called GRUNT.
They both work in a similar fashion. Paint it on, leave for about 15 minutes and then hose off with fresh water.
Result : rusty marks all gone
Grunt works well on gel coat too...for rusty marks..e.g. on deck at the bow where the anchor chain comes up.
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437





Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] rust on inox cable

Germain Jean-Pierre <jgermain@...>
 

Hello Gang,

FWIW, instead of paying silly prices for these named products, first try white vinegar.. if this does not work use Hydrocloric Acid (HCL) 20% 

RINSE THOROUGHLY AFTER USE… rust all gone

Fair winds,

Jean-Pierre Germain,
SY Eleuthera, SM007
Guadeloupe.


On 1 Mar 2017, at 03:49, divanz620@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

I think this is a common problem...

i have taken off all the white plastic on the rigging except where sheets rub against the shrouds, and then I have replaced the original stuff with a size larger, so it turns as the sheet  moves past it...Plastimo have a lot of different sizes available.
As for the corrosion at the swage ends, i have two products..one is INOX which the previous owner swore by and left on board, and the other is a NZ product called GRUNT.
They both work in a similar fashion. Paint it on, leave for about 15 minutes and then hose off with fresh water.
Result : rusty marks all gone
Grunt works well on gel coat too...for rusty marks..e.g. on deck at the bow where the anchor chain comes up.
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437




Re: replacement faucets

Duane Siegfri
 

Just the right adapter:

I just replaced the kitchen faucet (it started leaking into the cabinet below).  I found a fitting at Home Depot that is also available on Ebay (Watts LFA-117) that will adapt the house fitting in the sink cabinet to the US Supply hose.  There are three pieces in the package, throw away the two smaller pieces and use the 3/8 in OD to 3/8" FIP adapter.  The FIP (female iron pipe threads, aka, NPT) will connect to the house fitting, the other end is a 3/8" male compression fitting to attach the compression fitting on the supply hose.

Good luck!

Duane
Wanderer, SM#477


Re: Smoking generator

greatketch@...
 

As has already been suggested, I'd start with a compression test.  

A bit of corrosion, or a stuck ring after 6 months of inactivity could be the problem.  If the compression test is good, AND the injectors are good (which might be different than "new"), then the next place to look is the injection pump.

If the compression test is bad...  then you have a decision to make as to how far into the engine you dig to try to solve it.  Might be valves (not too expensive) might be rings or cylinder walls (much more expensive).

Bill Kinney
SM#160 Harmonie
La Parguera, Puerto Rico


Re: Convert Incandescent Light Fixtures to LED for $1

greatketch@...
 

Is there a reason you did not use a simple adapter to go from the bayonet mount to the G4 mount?

Bill Kinney
SM#160 Harmonie
La Payguera, Puerto Rico


Replacing fridge

Warren Traill
 

We have a Sharki #15 and it's time to improve our refridgeration. We have a space under a seat in the saloon where an old fridge/freezer is, though never worked while we have owned Manon. Also have a small Norcold fridge next to the sink. Would appreciate any ideas about replacing what we have.

Cheers,
Zetta Traill
Manon Two #15


Re: Smoking generator

Alan Leslie
 

Yes...white smoke is most likely unburnt fuel...or less likely, water vapour in the exhaust.
Put your hands over the exhaust ...if it smells of diesel , it's unburnt fuel 
If that is the case, then perhaps one cylinder is not firing..you should be able to hear / feel that...
OR if the weather is cold when you start the engine and it goes away as the engine warms up, then you've got a compression problem...piston rings / valve seats....
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] rust on inox cable [1 Attachment]

Alan Leslie
 

I think this is a common problem...
i have taken off all the white plastic on the rigging except where sheets rub against the shrouds, and then I have replaced the original stuff with a size larger, so it turns as the sheet  moves past it...Plastimo have a lot of different sizes available.
As for the corrosion at the swage ends, i have two products..one is INOX which the previous owner swore by and left on board, and the other is a NZ product called GRUNT.
They both work in a similar fashion. Paint it on, leave for about 15 minutes and then hose off with fresh water.
Result : rusty marks all gone
Grunt works well on gel coat too...for rusty marks..e.g. on deck at the bow where the anchor chain comes up.
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Convert Incandescent Light Fixtures to LED for $1

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Duane,

Since you are probably buying LEDs made in China, why not go to eBay and buy Chinese LEDs for about $2.50 each?

I bought a total of about 30 LEDs and had only one bad one. 

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
+1(832) 380-4970

On Feb 28, 2017 20:21, "sailor63109@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

I posted photo's to show the process I used to convert the incandescent fixture over the helm and those in the engine room to LED lights (the G4 pin type).  I did this mainly so I could have a bi-color light at the helm, but went ahead and converted the ones in the engine room as well (especially since one of the engine room lights had a socket go bad). 


The round LED's that fit a G4 (two wire pin type) light fixture can be had pretty bright so they work better in the engine room than the typical Bay15d LED.  Also I have a tendency to forget to turn the engine room lights out during the daytime, and the LED's burn a lot fewer amps.


The new G4 light socket is 10 for $3 on Ebay, then all you need is a small bit of JB Waterweld to glue it to the existing light fixture.  Hook up the wires to the e xisting switch, reinstall it and you're done!


I'm not an electrician, but it looks ok.  I wouldn't completely encase the new G4 socket with the JB so it can still dissipate heat.


The whole thing is less than $1 to convert, and then you'll have to buy a $15 LED.


Duane

Wanderer, SM#477


Smoking generator

Graham Boyd
 

My Onan MDKDP 6.5, was unused for about 6 months. Now, on start up and before any load is applied it produces large amounts of white smoke (the smell tells me this is unburnt fuel). This smoke persists even when the engine is warm.As soon as I apply load to the generator (aircon etc) the level of smoke drops drastically and becomes slight darker. My thoughts are this is probably a fuel supply or pump problem as the injectors have already been changed.


Any thoughts or similar first hand experience?


Graham

SM140 Sula

Hong Kong


ps full rebuilds in this town are rarely cost effective!



Convert Incandescent Light Fixtures to LED for $1

Duane Siegfri
 

I posted photo's to show the process I used to convert the incandescent fixture over the helm and those in the engine room to LED lights (the G4 pin type).  I did this mainly so I could have a bi-color light at the helm, but went ahead and converted the ones in the engine room as well (especially since one of the engine room lights had a socket go bad). 


The round LED's that fit a G4 (two wire pin type) light fixture can be had pretty bright so they work better in the engine room than the typical Bay15d LED.  Also I have a tendency to forget to turn the engine room lights out during the daytime, and the LED's burn a lot fewer amps.


The new G4 light socket is 10 for $3 on Ebay, then all you need is a small bit of JB Waterweld to glue it to the existing light fixture.  Hook up the wires to the existing switch, reinstall it and you're done!


I'm not an electrician, but it looks ok.  I wouldn't completely encase the new G4 socket with the JB so it can still dissipate heat.


The whole thing is less than $1 to convert, and then you'll have to buy a $15 LED.


Duane

Wanderer, SM#477


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Replacement Genoa furling motor electrical cable

eric freedman
 

Where are you located?

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Tuesday, February 28, 2017 2:49 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Replacement Genoa furling motor electrical cable

 

 

Does anyone have a source for the Genoa furling motor cable?  The closest I can find is three conductor yellow shorepower cable #6 AWG.  I haven't been able to find black.  UV resistance and flexibility is very important.

 

I may end up using yellow with a Sunbrella cover

 

Steve Leeds

Yacht MACCABEE

Sharki #121

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Replacement Genoa furling motor electrical cable

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Steve,

I bet Amel (sav"at"amel.fr) has some of the exact cable because they have used it for many years.

Bill
X-BeBe
Galveston

On Tue, Feb 28, 2017 at 1:48 PM, yachtmaccabee@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Does anyone have a source for the Genoa furling motor cable?  The closest I can find is three conductor yellow shorepower cable #6 AWG.  I haven't been able to find black.  UV resistance and flexibility is very important.


I may end up using yellow with a Sunbrella cover


Steve Leeds

Yacht MACCABEE

Sharki #121




Replacement Genoa furling motor electrical cable

Steve Leeds
 

Does anyone have a source for the Genoa furling motor cable?  The closest I can find is three conductor yellow shorepower cable #6 AWG.  I haven't been able to find black.  UV resistance and flexibility is very important.


I may end up using yellow with a Sunbrella cover


Steve Leeds

Yacht MACCABEE

Sharki #121



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] rust on inox cable [1 Attachment]

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Dieter,

I saw your photo. 

Since water runs down the wire it will accumulate near the swage fitting and under the plastic. I believe that if you want to use plastic over the wire that there should be about 25mm from the end of the plastic and the swage fitting. This will help you two ways.
  1. Water will not accumulate and the wire-to-fitting area will dry completely
  2. It makes it easy to visually inspect this vulnerable area every time you pass by them.
I hope this helps.

Bill
X-BeBe
Galveston Island

On Tue, Feb 28, 2017 at 12:07 PM, inusbusch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 
[Attachment(s) from inusbusch@... [amelyachtowners] included below]

On my old rigging I had rust at the connection where the inox cable entered the terminals, caused by minimal water droplets there.


Now I have a new rigging from ACMO and want to protect this parts as much as possible. See attached pic. The answer from ACMO was

“You must wash with a plastic brush where you see the little rust, and you can apply some silicon.”


But I know that there are different types of silicon, so before applying silicon I wanted to ask the group what you are doing to avoid water there, maybe you grease the parts?


Dieter

FAL-LERA Sharki #135




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] rust on inox cable [1 Attachment]

James Alton
 

Dieter,

   Here is what I do:  

1.  Wash/rinse (sometimes with soap if crusty)  the rigging and especially the lower terminals with freshwater to remove salt accumulation.

2.  At least once a year, polish all terminals and as much of the wire as I can reach with a fine metal polish.  (this seems to help a lot in reducing the eventual pitting that often occurs as the rigging ages) 

3.  Apply a coat of good marine wax which often contains silicone such as the Meguiars cleaner wax.  

Besides possibly extending the life of the stainless, this also helps to keep sails and lines clean that rub on the wire when tacking etc.

The idea of spraying the lower terminals/rusty areas with silicone is an interesting idea since it might help keep water from sitting in the terminal.  I will be curious to see what others have to say.  I am installing new ACMO rigging on my Maramu which replaces the original 29 year old wire and fittings that was still in serviceable shape.

Best of luck,

James Alton

SV Sueno
Amel Maramu #220

On Feb 28, 2017, at 1:07 PM, inusbusch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

[Attachment(s) from inusbusch@... [amelyachtowners] included below]

On my old rigging I had rust at the connection where the inox cable entered the terminals, caused by minimal water droplets there. 


Now I have a new rigging from ACMO and want to protect this parts as much as possible. See attached pic. The answer from ACMO was

“You must wash with a plastic brush where you see the little rust, and you can apply some silicon.”


But I know that there are different types of silicon, so before applying silicon I wanted to ask the group what you are doing to avoid water there, maybe you grease the parts?


Dieter

FAL-LERA Sharki #135





rust on inox cable

INUS - BUSCH
 

On my old rigging I had rust at the connection where the inox cable entered the terminals, caused by minimal water droplets there.


Now I have a new rigging from ACMO and want to protect this parts as much as possible. See attached pic. The answer from ACMO was

“You must wash with a plastic brush where you see the little rust, and you can apply some silicon.”


But I know that there are different types of silicon, so before applying silicon I wanted to ask the group what you are doing to avoid water there, maybe you grease the parts?


Dieter

FAL-LERA Sharki #135



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Nav Instruments on SM

alainfeuillet@...
 

Peter, I did replace my Hydra330 FFD which had no NMEA In/output by an Hercules2000 FFD which has the NMEA connection. It is enough and it has been working fine for five years. I connected it to my NMEA network allowing in particular to sail to the wind with my ST7002 A/P and get magnetic heading from it as well .
If Tinley has no solution you can try at Myles Electronic who supllied mewith this Hercules.
Fair wind
Alain (S/V Pilgrim)


---In amelyachtowners@..., <yahoogroups@...> wrote :

Peter,

Email Sarah Pidgley sarah@...

Tell her hi from Bill s/v BeBe.

I think that Sarah is the best one to answer specific questions, but I thought that even early model FFDs had NEMA 0183 OUT & IN. Sarah will tell you. Tinley will repair many B&G components and sometimes has refurbished components for sale. In my experience, Raymarine is great for autopilots, but I believe they are outclassed in most other categories. 

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
+1(832) 380-4970

On Feb 27, 2017 19:17, "Peter Jaeger mallamok@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Thank you Bill, that's realy briliant.

Now, my only speed indication is SOG from GPS and that is good enough. For the Ultra Sonic Speed from NKE, I would have to drill a new hole the get SOW. I think I am quite happy with SOG, even with some log-errors with strong curents. I will contact Tinley. What's the best contact, Sarah was her name?

If I want to upgrade my Hydra System to NMEA, would it be good enough to upgrade ONE FFD or do I have to do that with all components (2xFFD plus Processor)?

Peter

SY Wilson, SM#003, La Rochelle