Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Thomson clothes washer

karkauai
 

Hola from Shelter Bay, Bill!
I just got here from San Blas and am just now reading your mail.  The washer drains well and there is no water in the bottom of it, it just doesn't spin.  The clothes seem to be free of detergent.
 Are there relays or capacitors that initiate each part of the cycle, or is it all controlled by a motherboard?  Has anyone gotten into it to troubleshoot?

I'll look at the drain, Bill, but I don't think that will be the problem.

Muchas gracias, Bill. I hope you're enjoying your life ashore.
Kent
Kristy SM243
Panama

Kent Robertson
S/V Kristy
Panama cell: +507-61171896
USA cell: 828-234-6819

On Feb 23, 2017, at 1:33 PM, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Kent,

It may be caused by the water pump no longer working, or clogged.

Remove the two bolts and remove the L shaped wood surrounding your washer...be careful with the washer cabinet lid which will come loose.

On the front of the washer is a clean-out and inspection port for the water pump. On the front of the washer is a manual drain hose.

Do a little investigation...if it is the water pump, I have a source for you...if it is just clogged have your wet-vac handy and of course buckets to drain the washer through the manual drain hose on the front of the washer.

Bill
X-BeBe

On Thu, Feb 23, 2017 at 8:27 AM, Kent Robertson karkauai@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Ahoy, all!
My Thompson Washer/Dryer has just stopped spinning (Essorage) the water out of the clothes.  It stops when the Essorage light comes on.  I don't have any info on this unit and need some advice about what to look for...?and how?

Muchas Gracias from Panama
Kent
S/V Kristy SM243




drawing of the bonding system

enio rossi
 

Good morning to all,
The electric wires (yellow/green) of our Santorin in bonding system are  quite oxidized, so we decided to change them. Unfortunately is very hard to extract some wires cause they don'scroll.
Are they perhaps joined to the copper strap slifding inside? And to pull them may cause major damage?
Could we find somewhere a scheme of the bonding arrangement?
For example, how is made the bonding connection between the bow and the kitchen?
Thanks to all. Good wind.

Enio Rossi
Santorin #122 EARENDIL
Italy


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] rust on inox cable

Craig Briggs
 

J-P is quite right that all these $$ products are acids and home brews can work fine. Alan mentioned Grunt which is phosphoric acid based, like Coca-Cola, which works well, too. Or sprinkle a potato with baking soda and rub the rust off. Products like Grunt and Marykate On & Off do have the advantage of having the acid in a gel base which keeps it from drying while it does its work. Or try slicing a lemon half way through and sticking it around the stay wire just above the swage overnight. Has the added advantage that if you have folks over for sun-downers they can add their own twists to their gin & tonics.
Cheers, Craig Briggs, SN#68 Sangaris

---In amelyachtowners@..., <jgermain@...> wrote :

Hello Gang,

FWIW, instead of paying silly prices for these named products, first try white vinegar.. if this does not work use Hydrocloric Acid (HCL) 20% 

RINSE THOROUGHLY AFTER USE… rust all gone

Fair winds,

Jean-Pierre Germain,
SY Eleuthera, SM007
Guadeloupe.


On 1 Mar 2017, at 03:49, divanz620@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

I think this is a common problem...

i have taken off all the white plastic on the rigging except where sheets rub against the shrouds, and then I have replaced the original stuff with a size larger, so it turns as the sheet  moves past it...Plastimo have a lot of different sizes available.
As for the corrosion at the swage ends, i have two products..one is INOX which the previous owner swore by and left on board, and the other is a NZ product called GRUNT.
They both work in a similar fashion. Paint it on, leave for about 15 minutes and then hose off with fresh water.
Result : rusty marks all gone
Grunt works well on gel coat too...for rusty marks..e.g. on deck at the bow where the anchor chain comes up.
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437




Re: Convert Incandescent Light Fixtures to LED for $1

Duane Siegfri
 

Bill K,

Well, first I didn't know they existed!  

But what started me down this path was the bayonet socket in one of the engine room lights failed and had to be replaced.  Since I've changed out the G4 halogen lights for G4 LED's, I thought it would be simpler to have all G4 socketed LED's and so changed the engine room lights over to G4 sockets.  

The other thing to consider is that the BAY15d socketed LED's give all-around light (are there one-sided LED's for this socket?).  It's going to be more efficient if all the LED's are pointed down rather than at the reflector of the fixture so the G4 LED's will be more efficient in a ceiling fixture.

Duane


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] rust on inox cable

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

I am sure that everyone knows this...BUT...

The rigging turnbuckles on any Amel with ACMO rigging are chrome plated bronze. Many winches are also chrome plated bronze. Please do not put any form of acid on chrome plating...it will ruin it. If you accidentally get some on chrome plating, rinse it immediately.

 Acid comes in hull cleaning products like ON-OFF and many others...Be careful.

Bill
X-BeBe

On Wed, Mar 1, 2017 at 3:52 PM, Germain Jean-Pierre jgermain@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Hello Gang,


FWIW, instead of paying silly prices for these named products, first try white vinegar.. if this does not work use Hydrocloric Acid (HCL) 20% 

RINSE THOROUGHLY AFTER USE… rust all gone

Fair winds,

Jean-Pierre Germain,
SY Eleuthera, SM007
Guadeloupe.


On 1 Mar 2017, at 03:49, divanz620@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

I think this is a common problem...

i have taken off all the white plastic on the rigging except where sheets rub against the shrouds, and then I have replaced the original stuff with a size larger, so it turns as the sheet  moves past it...Plastimo have a lot of different sizes available.
As for the corrosion at the swage ends, i have two products..one is INOX which the previous owner swore by and left on board, and the other is a NZ product called GRUNT.
They both work in a similar fashion. Paint it on, leave for about 15 minutes and then hose off with fresh water.
Result : rusty marks all gone
Grunt works well on gel coat too...for rusty marks..e.g. on deck at the bow where the anchor chain comes up.
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437





Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] rust on inox cable

Germain Jean-Pierre <jgermain@...>
 

Hello Gang,

FWIW, instead of paying silly prices for these named products, first try white vinegar.. if this does not work use Hydrocloric Acid (HCL) 20% 

RINSE THOROUGHLY AFTER USE… rust all gone

Fair winds,

Jean-Pierre Germain,
SY Eleuthera, SM007
Guadeloupe.


On 1 Mar 2017, at 03:49, divanz620@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

I think this is a common problem...

i have taken off all the white plastic on the rigging except where sheets rub against the shrouds, and then I have replaced the original stuff with a size larger, so it turns as the sheet  moves past it...Plastimo have a lot of different sizes available.
As for the corrosion at the swage ends, i have two products..one is INOX which the previous owner swore by and left on board, and the other is a NZ product called GRUNT.
They both work in a similar fashion. Paint it on, leave for about 15 minutes and then hose off with fresh water.
Result : rusty marks all gone
Grunt works well on gel coat too...for rusty marks..e.g. on deck at the bow where the anchor chain comes up.
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437




Re: replacement faucets

Duane Siegfri
 

Just the right adapter:

I just replaced the kitchen faucet (it started leaking into the cabinet below).  I found a fitting at Home Depot that is also available on Ebay (Watts LFA-117) that will adapt the house fitting in the sink cabinet to the US Supply hose.  There are three pieces in the package, throw away the two smaller pieces and use the 3/8 in OD to 3/8" FIP adapter.  The FIP (female iron pipe threads, aka, NPT) will connect to the house fitting, the other end is a 3/8" male compression fitting to attach the compression fitting on the supply hose.

Good luck!

Duane
Wanderer, SM#477


Re: Smoking generator

greatketch@...
 

As has already been suggested, I'd start with a compression test.  

A bit of corrosion, or a stuck ring after 6 months of inactivity could be the problem.  If the compression test is good, AND the injectors are good (which might be different than "new"), then the next place to look is the injection pump.

If the compression test is bad...  then you have a decision to make as to how far into the engine you dig to try to solve it.  Might be valves (not too expensive) might be rings or cylinder walls (much more expensive).

Bill Kinney
SM#160 Harmonie
La Parguera, Puerto Rico


Re: Convert Incandescent Light Fixtures to LED for $1

greatketch@...
 

Is there a reason you did not use a simple adapter to go from the bayonet mount to the G4 mount?

Bill Kinney
SM#160 Harmonie
La Payguera, Puerto Rico


Replacing fridge

Warren Traill
 

We have a Sharki #15 and it's time to improve our refridgeration. We have a space under a seat in the saloon where an old fridge/freezer is, though never worked while we have owned Manon. Also have a small Norcold fridge next to the sink. Would appreciate any ideas about replacing what we have.

Cheers,
Zetta Traill
Manon Two #15


Re: Smoking generator

Alan Leslie
 

Yes...white smoke is most likely unburnt fuel...or less likely, water vapour in the exhaust.
Put your hands over the exhaust ...if it smells of diesel , it's unburnt fuel 
If that is the case, then perhaps one cylinder is not firing..you should be able to hear / feel that...
OR if the weather is cold when you start the engine and it goes away as the engine warms up, then you've got a compression problem...piston rings / valve seats....
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] rust on inox cable [1 Attachment]

Alan Leslie
 

I think this is a common problem...
i have taken off all the white plastic on the rigging except where sheets rub against the shrouds, and then I have replaced the original stuff with a size larger, so it turns as the sheet  moves past it...Plastimo have a lot of different sizes available.
As for the corrosion at the swage ends, i have two products..one is INOX which the previous owner swore by and left on board, and the other is a NZ product called GRUNT.
They both work in a similar fashion. Paint it on, leave for about 15 minutes and then hose off with fresh water.
Result : rusty marks all gone
Grunt works well on gel coat too...for rusty marks..e.g. on deck at the bow where the anchor chain comes up.
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Convert Incandescent Light Fixtures to LED for $1

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Duane,

Since you are probably buying LEDs made in China, why not go to eBay and buy Chinese LEDs for about $2.50 each?

I bought a total of about 30 LEDs and had only one bad one. 

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
+1(832) 380-4970

On Feb 28, 2017 20:21, "sailor63109@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

I posted photo's to show the process I used to convert the incandescent fixture over the helm and those in the engine room to LED lights (the G4 pin type).  I did this mainly so I could have a bi-color light at the helm, but went ahead and converted the ones in the engine room as well (especially since one of the engine room lights had a socket go bad). 


The round LED's that fit a G4 (two wire pin type) light fixture can be had pretty bright so they work better in the engine room than the typical Bay15d LED.  Also I have a tendency to forget to turn the engine room lights out during the daytime, and the LED's burn a lot fewer amps.


The new G4 light socket is 10 for $3 on Ebay, then all you need is a small bit of JB Waterweld to glue it to the existing light fixture.  Hook up the wires to the e xisting switch, reinstall it and you're done!


I'm not an electrician, but it looks ok.  I wouldn't completely encase the new G4 socket with the JB so it can still dissipate heat.


The whole thing is less than $1 to convert, and then you'll have to buy a $15 LED.


Duane

Wanderer, SM#477


Smoking generator

Graham Boyd
 

My Onan MDKDP 6.5, was unused for about 6 months. Now, on start up and before any load is applied it produces large amounts of white smoke (the smell tells me this is unburnt fuel). This smoke persists even when the engine is warm.As soon as I apply load to the generator (aircon etc) the level of smoke drops drastically and becomes slight darker. My thoughts are this is probably a fuel supply or pump problem as the injectors have already been changed.


Any thoughts or similar first hand experience?


Graham

SM140 Sula

Hong Kong


ps full rebuilds in this town are rarely cost effective!



Convert Incandescent Light Fixtures to LED for $1

Duane Siegfri
 

I posted photo's to show the process I used to convert the incandescent fixture over the helm and those in the engine room to LED lights (the G4 pin type).  I did this mainly so I could have a bi-color light at the helm, but went ahead and converted the ones in the engine room as well (especially since one of the engine room lights had a socket go bad). 


The round LED's that fit a G4 (two wire pin type) light fixture can be had pretty bright so they work better in the engine room than the typical Bay15d LED.  Also I have a tendency to forget to turn the engine room lights out during the daytime, and the LED's burn a lot fewer amps.


The new G4 light socket is 10 for $3 on Ebay, then all you need is a small bit of JB Waterweld to glue it to the existing light fixture.  Hook up the wires to the existing switch, reinstall it and you're done!


I'm not an electrician, but it looks ok.  I wouldn't completely encase the new G4 socket with the JB so it can still dissipate heat.


The whole thing is less than $1 to convert, and then you'll have to buy a $15 LED.


Duane

Wanderer, SM#477


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Replacement Genoa furling motor electrical cable

eric freedman
 

Where are you located?

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Tuesday, February 28, 2017 2:49 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Replacement Genoa furling motor electrical cable

 

 

Does anyone have a source for the Genoa furling motor cable?  The closest I can find is three conductor yellow shorepower cable #6 AWG.  I haven't been able to find black.  UV resistance and flexibility is very important.

 

I may end up using yellow with a Sunbrella cover

 

Steve Leeds

Yacht MACCABEE

Sharki #121

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Replacement Genoa furling motor electrical cable

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Steve,

I bet Amel (sav"at"amel.fr) has some of the exact cable because they have used it for many years.

Bill
X-BeBe
Galveston

On Tue, Feb 28, 2017 at 1:48 PM, yachtmaccabee@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Does anyone have a source for the Genoa furling motor cable?  The closest I can find is three conductor yellow shorepower cable #6 AWG.  I haven't been able to find black.  UV resistance and flexibility is very important.


I may end up using yellow with a Sunbrella cover


Steve Leeds

Yacht MACCABEE

Sharki #121




Replacement Genoa furling motor electrical cable

Steve Leeds
 

Does anyone have a source for the Genoa furling motor cable?  The closest I can find is three conductor yellow shorepower cable #6 AWG.  I haven't been able to find black.  UV resistance and flexibility is very important.


I may end up using yellow with a Sunbrella cover


Steve Leeds

Yacht MACCABEE

Sharki #121



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] rust on inox cable [1 Attachment]

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Dieter,

I saw your photo. 

Since water runs down the wire it will accumulate near the swage fitting and under the plastic. I believe that if you want to use plastic over the wire that there should be about 25mm from the end of the plastic and the swage fitting. This will help you two ways.
  1. Water will not accumulate and the wire-to-fitting area will dry completely
  2. It makes it easy to visually inspect this vulnerable area every time you pass by them.
I hope this helps.

Bill
X-BeBe
Galveston Island

On Tue, Feb 28, 2017 at 12:07 PM, inusbusch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 
[Attachment(s) from inusbusch@... [amelyachtowners] included below]

On my old rigging I had rust at the connection where the inox cable entered the terminals, caused by minimal water droplets there.


Now I have a new rigging from ACMO and want to protect this parts as much as possible. See attached pic. The answer from ACMO was

“You must wash with a plastic brush where you see the little rust, and you can apply some silicon.”


But I know that there are different types of silicon, so before applying silicon I wanted to ask the group what you are doing to avoid water there, maybe you grease the parts?


Dieter

FAL-LERA Sharki #135




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] rust on inox cable [1 Attachment]

James Alton
 

Dieter,

   Here is what I do:  

1.  Wash/rinse (sometimes with soap if crusty)  the rigging and especially the lower terminals with freshwater to remove salt accumulation.

2.  At least once a year, polish all terminals and as much of the wire as I can reach with a fine metal polish.  (this seems to help a lot in reducing the eventual pitting that often occurs as the rigging ages) 

3.  Apply a coat of good marine wax which often contains silicone such as the Meguiars cleaner wax.  

Besides possibly extending the life of the stainless, this also helps to keep sails and lines clean that rub on the wire when tacking etc.

The idea of spraying the lower terminals/rusty areas with silicone is an interesting idea since it might help keep water from sitting in the terminal.  I will be curious to see what others have to say.  I am installing new ACMO rigging on my Maramu which replaces the original 29 year old wire and fittings that was still in serviceable shape.

Best of luck,

James Alton

SV Sueno
Amel Maramu #220

On Feb 28, 2017, at 1:07 PM, inusbusch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

[Attachment(s) from inusbusch@... [amelyachtowners] included below]

On my old rigging I had rust at the connection where the inox cable entered the terminals, caused by minimal water droplets there. 


Now I have a new rigging from ACMO and want to protect this parts as much as possible. See attached pic. The answer from ACMO was

“You must wash with a plastic brush where you see the little rust, and you can apply some silicon.”


But I know that there are different types of silicon, so before applying silicon I wanted to ask the group what you are doing to avoid water there, maybe you grease the parts?


Dieter

FAL-LERA Sharki #135