Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] provenciales

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Hello Jeff,

Going to echo Mark.

I stayed at Blue Haven Marina for 2.5 months, was only going to stay 2 to 3 weeks because of the price, but the marina was so nice, the only 5 star marina I stayed in (better than Atlantis in Nassau) and they also gave me a better price as I stayed longer (talk to Adam or Porcia).

At the time I did not feel confortable (even with a pilot going to Turtle Cove), but since several Super Maramu went.

With Blue Haven, you will get “Free shuttle” to towns and many other amenities that they don’t advertise such as free shuttle and full access to Alexandria and the Beach House… The Beach House will load you (no charge) hobby cat, paddle board, snorkeling equipment, bring you tea and pastries… at no charge… also free shuttle to the fish fry on Wednesday… The customs & emigration also came on site… I can go on and on…
Note: if you stay less than 7 days: no need for cruising permit ($300) if you plan on staying more then $300 valid for 3 months.
DO NOT pay for the “anchoring permit” they will try to charge you, it is for vessel over 20 meters.

From Blue Haven, grocery shopping will be far walking, I have a bicycle so was never an issue: 15 min away.

Regardless of where you stay, I think you will love Providenciales, the nicest beach and the bluest water.

Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Harbor View Marina, Tortola, BVI




--------------------------------------------

On Sun, 3/12/17, 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@gmail.com [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] provenciales
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Sunday, March 12, 2017, 9:52 AM


 

















Jeff,


 

You have two
options. It depends on how much money you want to spend. The
lower price option
is Turtle Cove at $0.85 per foot per day for the monthly
rate or Blue Haven at $1.75
per foot per day.

 

Both are accessible
with a 7’ draft. Turtle Cove will send a pilot boat out at
no-charge to guide
you in (recommended) - you will need high tide. The IGA
store (grocery) is about
one mile from Turtle Cove and a cab ride from Blue Haven.
Blue Haven has a
small store on site with some groceries. Turtle Cove is a
Port of Entry/Exit. Blue
Haven can arrange entry.

 



With best
regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel
- Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currenlty
cruising – Great Exuma Island, Bahamas

www.creampuff.us




 





From:
amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com]

Sent: Sunday, March 12, 2017 8:41 AM

To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com

Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] provenciales





 

 







Good Morning Amelians,

I'm looking for recommendations on where to pick up a
slip in Provenciales.
I see there are a couple of options.

I plan to slide down there in a month, and leave Spirit
there for a month or
so before pressing onward, towards Trinidad.

Any feedback is appreciated.

Thanks.

 

Jeff Spiriut Amel 54 #14


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] provenciales

JEFFREY KRAUS
 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] provenciales

Mark Erdos
 

Jeff,

 

You have two options. It depends on how much money you want to spend. The lower price option is Turtle Cove at $0.85 per foot per day for the monthly rate or Blue Haven at $1.75 per foot per day.

 

Both are accessible with a 7’ draft. Turtle Cove will send a pilot boat out at no-charge to guide you in (recommended) - you will need high tide. The IGA store (grocery) is about one mile from Turtle Cove and a cab ride from Blue Haven. Blue Haven has a small store on site with some groceries. Turtle Cove is a Port of Entry/Exit. Blue Haven can arrange entry.

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currenlty cruising – Great Exuma Island, Bahamas

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Sunday, March 12, 2017 8:41 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] provenciales

 

 

Good Morning Amelians,

I'm looking for recommendations on where to pick up a slip in Provenciales. I see there are a couple of options.

I plan to slide down there in a month, and leave Spirit there for a month or so before pressing onward, towards Trinidad.

Any feedback is appreciated.

Thanks.

 

Jeff Spiriut Amel 54 #14

 


Engine performance on 54

hodginsbob@...
 

I am curious if there is anyone that has kept a log of engine turbo performance under way? My 54 has the Volvo D3-110 engine. I regret that in the past I have not recorded the turbo boost pressure at various rpm settings. If anyone has that information would they be willing to share?
Bob & Mary Lu
Gallivant
currently at anchor near St. James Island, USVI



Re: Autoprop on Amel 54

Bob Hodgins <bobh@...>
 

Yes, I can confirm Martin is correct, it is a H6 Autoprop on the 54.

Bob
Gallivant
Amel 54 #31
currently at St. James Island, USVI


provenciales

JEFFREY KRAUS
 

Good Morning Amelians,

I'm looking for recommendations on where to pick up a slip in Provenciales. I see there are a couple of options.

I plan to slide down there in a month, and leave Spirit there for a month or so before pressing onward, towards Trinidad.

Any feedback is appreciated.

Thanks.


Jeff Spiriut Amel 54 #14



Re: Hydraulic 2nd Backup for linear Auto pilot drive

svperegrinus@yahoo.com
 

An interesting thing that either I forgot or was never told on our '55 visits, but which came up on this week's '55 demo to the Delos crew, is that Amel installs that boat's hydraulic autopilot pump on a separate, isolated mount to keep things quiet in the sleeping quarters.

Something to consider if you go the hydraulic route.

Peregrinus
SM2K No. 350
At anchor, Ortona, Italy


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Autoprop on Amel 54

amelforme
 

Thanks Martin. I put my pants on one leg at a time, too!

The great thing about this group is the great willingness to help each other. This is of great value to us all.

Thanks again, Martin

Joel F. Potter
THE EXPERIENCED AMEL GUY
954-812-2485

On Mar 11, 2017, at 1:35 PM, Martin Komischke luvkante@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Joel,


I am not 100% sure, but I think it is H6. In case of that might help:

My BRUNTON Autoprop S/N is AP 7959. Maybe they can track it.

Would be so happy , if I would have helped the famous J.Potter. Didn`t know, that`s possible!

Best regards

Martin Komischke

AMEL 54 #149 CHIARA
Currently Rodney Bay, St. Lucia

Am 11. März 2017 um 19:28:21, jfpottercys@... [amelyachtowners] (amelyachtowners@...) schrieb:

 

Hello Everyone.


I am far away from an Amel boat today and my failing memory cannot recall which model of Autoprop is on the Amel 54. Can anyone help me out with the Bruntons Autoprop Model Number for the Amel 54?


Many thanks in advance.


Joel F. Potter 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Autoprop on Amel 54

luvkante
 


Autoprop on Amel 54

amelforme
 

Hello Everyone.


I am far away from an Amel boat today and my failing memory cannot recall which model of Autoprop is on the Amel 54. Can anyone help me out with the Bruntons Autoprop Model Number for the Amel 54?


Many thanks in advance.


Joel F. Potter 


Re: Hydraulic 2nd Backup for linear Auto pilot drive

greatketch@...
 

Jose,

I have never put a hydraulic drive in a SM2K, but have installed and used them on other boats.  

They are easy to install, relatively.  The key being they need to have someplace VERY strong to push and pull against that works with the geometry of the ram.  They really should have their own tiller arm, and not attach to the existing quadrant, although many installations cheat on this.

Some of the pumps can be quite noisy compared to the linear drive, but they can be mounted somewhere other than under the berth. If you want to go with a remote mount, installing the pump in the engine room and then routing the hoses without compromising the engine room bulkhead integrity might take away the "easy to install" benefit! 

If you are interfacing to a Raymarine autopilot, check the voltage for the clutch.  Many (most? all?) of the 24V Raymarine AP units use 12 Volts to drive the clutch and 24V to drive the motor.

Another benefit of hydraulics is repairability.  On the ram side, parts are pretty standard all over the world in all kinds of industries, so seals and even whole rams are easy to get anywhere there is an industrial economy.  For long range cruising it would be easy to carry a spare pump for a drop in replacement.  So no matter what fails you don't need to find a Raymarine technician or parts depot to fix it. 

Bill Kinney
SM#160 Harmonie
Punta Montalva, Puerto Rico


---In amelyachtowners@..., <jvenegas@...> wrote :

I have two sets of questions:  

1) My rotary drive has failed.  I makes sounds as if it is receiving the signal but the wheel does not turn.  Is it a failing clutch? If that is the problem  can it be repaired without sending it to Raymarine?


2)  I am preparing the boat for the Marion Bermuda Cruising race taking place this year and would like to add a 2nd backup linear drive, preferably hydraulic.  I would prefer the hydraulic because it is more robust, it has less parts to fail and can handle stronger forces with less energy spent.  Has anybody added a hydraulic linear back up drive to a SM2K?

Any pros and cons arguments welcome.


Jose


IPANEMA

SM2K 278

Currently shrink rapped at Constitution Marina, Boston.

 


Re: fresh water hose join to pipe

greatketch@...
 


Duane,

Good question...  I actually spread cement on the male connector, and then slide the hose on while the cement is still wet.  double clamping immediately.  It does take some time to dry, and certainly is not "full strength" when done that way but the next day the hose is on tight.  An additional advantage to doing it this way, is the wet cement acts as a lubricant, making it easy to slide the hose on to its full length.  

I put the cement on the male side so that as little as possible ends up inside the hose.  When I put a hose on this way it is not easy to remove, but it is possible--which is what I am looking for.

I have never felt the need to do this with "barbed" fittings but the smooth male connectors Amel uses seem like they need more than just clamps.

Bill Kinney
SM#160, Harmonie
Punta Montalva, Puerto Rico


---In amelyachtowners@..., <sailor63109@...> wrote :

Bill,

One last question on using contact cement to join the unbarbed connections.

Do you spread it on both surfaces and allow it to become tacky before joining as usual?  Usually contact cement bonds on contact so how can you slide the hose onto the pipe?  Do you just spread it on the pipe, slide the hose on while still wet?

Normally I would go get some scrap pipe and try it out, but I'm on foot in the boatyard and Home Depot is a long walk.

Thanks,
Duane
Wanderer, SM#477
Hard aground in the boatyard...


Re: fresh water hose join to pipe

Duane Siegfri
 

Bill,

One last question on using contact cement to join the unbarbed connections.

Do you spread it on both surfaces and allow it to become tacky before joining as usual?  Usually contact cement bonds on contact so how can you slide the hose onto the pipe?  Do you just spread it on the pipe, slide the hose on while still wet?

Normally I would go get some scrap pipe and try it out, but I'm on foot in the boatyard and Home Depot is a long walk.

Thanks,
Duane
Wanderer, SM#477
Hard aground in the boatyard...


Re: Hydraulic 2nd Backup for linear Auto pilot drive

Ian Park
 

If it's a Raymarine rotary drive it is quick (on the Santorin) to remove - just two bolts, and then you can unbolt the casing and see the gear arrangement. You can then turn the motor or the gear train by hand to see the problem. It was so easy to change over - 10-15 minutes - I decided to buy a spare rotary. But there are several threads on the advantages of a second independent linear drive and perhaps it's own course computer.

Ian
Ocean Hobo SN96


Hydraulic 2nd Backup for linear Auto pilot drive

Jose Venegas
 

I have two sets of questions:  

1) My rotary drive has failed.  I makes sounds as if it is receiving the signal but the wheel does not turn.  Is it a failing clutch? If that is the problem  can it be repaired without sending it to Raymarine?


2)  I am preparing the boat for the Marion Bermuda Cruising race taking place this year and would like to add a 2nd backup linear drive, preferably hydraulic.  I would prefer the hydraulic because it is more robust, it has less parts to fail and can handle stronger forces with less energy spent.  Has anybody added a hydraulic linear back up drive to a SM2K?

Any pros and cons arguments welcome.


Jose


IPANEMA

SM2K 278

Currently shrink rapped at Constitution Marina, Boston.

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Collapsing mizzen mast support on a 1986 Maramu

Jacob Champness
 

Thanks James!  I appreciate your input.


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Alternative for not working Sonic Speed sensors

greatketch@...
 

Awesome follow up, Bill!

I have so far been happy with the performance of the CS4500 in my system.  It is very nice not having to clean a paddlewheel after a day or two of sitting!

Bill Kinney
SM#160 Harmonie



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Gel Coat Cracks adjacent to the backstays & other assorted questions

Duane Siegfri
 

Thanks for the info Joel.

I couldn't remember whether they were there or not for sure  Interesting that they cracked through the 2014/15 repair already.  Not much point in fixing them if they just keep reappearing.  You mentioned adding glass on the inside, is that a repair you've seen that works?  It doesn't "sound" like adding a couple layers of glass would be that hard, but if the problem is overly thick gel coat, how would that help?

If overly thick gel coat, which reduces the flexibility of the gel coat, causes the cracking would the real answer be grind off the gel coat at the cracked surface and paint?  Have you seen this done?

I'm thinking of putting a flexible sealant in the cracks where I'm getting some leakage.  That will stop the leak and protect the fiberglass from UV.

Thanks for your input,
Duane





Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Alternative for not working Sonic Speed sensors

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Alan, Willem, and other interested owners.

I spent most of the day talking to various B&G distributors about substituting the Airmar 4500 for a faulty Sonic Speed sensor. Almost half of them told me NO, but I received a YES from a few that I respect.

So, I am reversing myself. I now believe that the Airmar 4500 will work when wired directly to the Hydra 2000 computer's speed input.

I apologize if I misled anyone, but when I experienced Sonic Speed sensor failure on BeBe, I could not find anyone that told me that the 4500 would work. I understand that Airmar had quality issues the first few years of production and this may have been the reason that the respected B&G distributors told me it would not work with the Hydra 2000.

I exchanged emails with Alan Leslie. He has a Airmar 4500 on order and will report to the group when he receives it.

Best,

Bill
X-BeBe

On Fri, Mar 10, 2017 at 7:03 AM, Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...> wrote:
Alan,

I am sure that there are several people that would like to know if your proposal works for a B&G Sonic Speed sensor replacement. Like I said earlier, everyone I spoke to said that it will not, but like several other things involving electronic instrumentation, I found that the majority can be wrong. 

Be sure to report back. 


CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Galveston Island
Sent using Google Fi
+1(832) 380-4970

   

On Mar 9, 2017 21:50, "divanz620@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
 

To Bill and Bill and Willem and anyone else following this thread....


What I proposed was not a dual speed/depth transducer, but an Airmar ultrasonic speed transducer CS4500, which will fit in the existing depth transducer housing, and which produces an analog output to a connection box that can connect directly to the ultrasonic speed connections on the Hydra computer (there are three connections for speed : sonic transducer, ultrasonic, paddlewheel).
Then as Bill Kinney suggested, I would use a P79 in hull depth transducer, that has the same output as the standard thru hull depth transducer, and connect that to the Hydra computer, in place of the B&G depth transducer.
No NMEA 0183, no NMEA 2000, just direct analog connections. 
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Gel Coat Cracks adjacent to the backstays & other assorted questions

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Wow ! Impressive explanation! Always learning!

As always THANKS Joel for your input!

Sincerely, Alexandre



--------------------------------------------

On Fri, 3/10/17, 'Joel Potter' jfpottercys@att.net [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Gel Coat Cracks adjacent to the backstays & other assorted questions
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Friday, March 10, 2017, 8:05 AM


 









I will answer in caps for
clarity  From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Friday, March 10, 2017 7:07 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Gel Coat
Cracks adjacent to the backstays & other assorted
questions    At the transom/hull joint on
both sides the gel coat is cracked from top to bottom.
 While we're in a boatyard I'm thinking of doing a
repair, so I'm soliciting suggestions on the repair
method. THE
REASON THE GEL COAT WILL CRACK IN THIS AREA ON ALL SUPER
MARAMUS IS SIMPLE. THE ACTUAL TRANSON ITSELF IS A SEPARATE
MOLDING FROM THE REST OF THE ONE PIECE HULL. THE TRANSOM IS
INSTALLED AFTER THE OTHERWISE COMPLETED HULL AND DECK
ASSEMBLY HAVE BEEN LAMINATED TOGETHER INTO ONE PIECE AND
REMOVED FROM THE MOLD. THE TRANSOM IS MOUNTED THEN LAMINATED
TO THE AFTER ENDS OF THE HULL AND DECK. AMEL DOES NOT DO
EVERYTHING ABSOLUTELY PERFECTLY. IN THIS CASE, AFTER THE
TRANSOM IS LAMINATED AND CURED, GEL COAT IS APPLIED TO THE
AREA WHERE THE EXTERIOR OF THE TRANSOM JOIN IS. AMEL SIMPLY
USED TOO THICK/TOO MUCH GEL COAT IN THIS AREA TO “FAIR AND
FLUSH FIT” THE EDGES OF THE TRANSOM. IN A MORE PERFECT
APPROACH, AN APPROVED FAIRING COMPOUND SHOULD BE USED, AND
THEN THE PROPER THICKNESS, ABOUT 20 MILS, OF GEL COAT,
SHOULD BE APPLIED.THE REASON THE GEL COAT CRACKS IS
BECAUSE IT IS VERY BRITTLE. WHEN APPLIED TOO THICKLY, IT
EXACERBATES THE TENDANCY TO CRACK AS IT BECOMES EVEN MORE
BRITTLE THE THICKER THE FINISHED GEL COAT SKIN
BECOMES.THE CRACKS BEGIN WHERE THE MIZZEN
BACKSTAYS ARE ATTACHED AS THIS IS A POINT LOADED AREA WHICH
ENCOURAGES THESE TYPES OF CRACKS. I HAVE NEVER SEEN THE
LAMINATE IN THIS AREA WHERE THE CRACKS APPEAR DAMAGED IN ANY
WAY BY THE MOUNTING OF THE MIZZEN BACKSTAYS THERE.  I HAVE
SEEN IT SEVERLY DAMAGED BY THE MOUNTING OF DAVITS,
SOLAR/RADAR ARCHES, AND POST MOUNTED WIND GENERATORS WITHOUT
PROPER REINFORCEMENT TO THE INSIDE OF THE
TRANSOM.IT IS EASY TO CHECK THE LAMINATE IN
THIS AREA FOR DAMAGE. AT NIGHT, TAKE A POWERFUL SEACHLAMP
AND HAVE A HELPER SHINE IT CLOSE TO BUT NOT TOUCHING ON THE
EXTERIOR OF THE TRANSOM-HULL JOIN WHILE YOU CLIMB INSIDE A
HOPEFULLY LESS THAN FULL STERN LOCKER. THE BRIGHT AND
POWERFUL LIGHT WILL ILLUMINATE THE LAMINATE JUST LIKE AN
X-RAY AS AMEL DID NOT APPLY ANY GEL COAT TO THE INSIDE OF
THE TRANSOM. IF THE LAMINATE IS DAMAGED, IT WILL APPEAR TO
HAVE MOVED AS INDEED THAT IS WHAT IT DOES WHEN IT FAILS.
HAVE A REAL EXPERT TAKE A LOOK IF YOU ARE NOT SURE.  COST
CUTTING? NOT AT ALL. THEY DIDN’T APPLY GEL COAT TO MAKE
THIS PANEL MORE TRANSLUCENT ALLOWING MORE LIGHT INTO AN AREA
WHICH WOULD BE OTHERWISE QUITE DARK. ALWAYS THINKING, THESE
AMEL PEOPLE! PLEASE, DO NOT TRY TO DO THIS BY YOURSELF BY
PLACING THE SEARCHLAMP DIRECTLY ON THE TRANSOM THEN CRAWLING
INSIDE AS YOU WILL SEE THE LAMINATE FAIL RIGHT BEFORE YOUR
EYES BECAUSE POLYESTER RESIN STARTS TO FAIL/CRYSTALIZE AT
175F AND WILL CATCH ON FIRE AS IT GASSES WITH THE
APPLICATION OF EXCESSIVE HEAT. TRUST ME. DON’T DO IT
ALONE.
   I've read here that these
cracks happen on most SM's, and looking from inside the
lazaret, it appears they are in the gel coat only.  I am a
bit concerned that these cracks were not reported on the
2015 pre-purchase Survey in any form, as if they weren't
there then.  I think they were there then, but don't
know if they have gotten worse.
DUANE, DESPITE THE DIFFICULTIES YOU HAVE EXPERIENCED WITH
YOUR BOAT, THE PREVIUOS OWNER WAS A STICKLER FOR SYSTEMS
MAINTENANCE AND COSMETIC UPKEEP. SINCE WE WERE GOING TO USE
THE BOAT AS OUR SHOWBOAT IN THE MIAMI BOAT SHOW, I HAD THE
CRACKS REPAIRED AS THIS COSMETIC ROUTINE WAS NOT HIDING
ANYTHING THAT WAS WRONG WITH THE LAMINATE. THE GEL COAT GUY
WAS EXPERIENCED. I TOLD HIM TO REALLY SAND DOWN THE OLD GEL
COAT IN HOPES THE NEW GEL COAT WOULD NOT BE TOO THICK AND
PRONE TO CRACKS. THERE WERE NO CRACKS THERE WHEN YOU AND PEG
BOUGHT YOUR BOAT, YOU DIDN’T MISS ANYTHING. HE JUST PUT ON
TOO MUCH GEL COAT. AGAIN.  The
fiberglass repairman working on the boat (collision damage)
suggested "radical surgery" including grinding off
the gel coat over a wide area on both sides of the crack,
adding fiberglass and then new gel coat.  His opinion was
if he just repaired the gel coat it would only crack again.
 Then he pointed out several areas where the gel coat had
been "touched up" to hide the crack, only to
subsequently crack in the same place. MY EARS PERK UP AND MY THINKING CAP
GETS PULLED ON TIGHT WHEN ANYONE SAYS ‘RADICAL’.   IF
HE SUGGESTED ADDING FIBERGLASS AFTER GRINDING OFF THE GEL
COAT, TO THE OUTSIDE, THAT WOULD BE A LESS THAN SATISFACTORY
REPAIR. ADD STRUCTURAL FIBERGLASS TO THE INSIDE OF THE
TRAMSOM WHERE A BETTER OVERLAP/MORE STRENGTH CAN BE
ACHIEVED. THIS IS ESSENTIAL IF ADDING THE AFOREMENTIONED
EQUIPMENT .  I can see there is some
water intrusion on the stbd side at the crack.  I'm
thinking of filling it with Marine-Tex. I don't want to
damage the structural laminates below, so any grinding/prep
would be limitied to opening the gel coat crack to 1/8"
or so.   <<<Any thoughts about
that?>>>IN MY
EXPERIENCES WITH THIS CHALLENGE, I HAVE FOUND THAT SANDING
THE GEL COAT OFF, CAREFULLY AND SLOWLY SO AS NOT TO CHEW
INTO STRUCTURAL LAMINATE, FOLLOWED BY PROPER APPLICATION OF
A COMPATABLE PRIMER FOLLOWED BY POLYUREATHANE PAINT WITH AN
ELASTOMER ADDITIVE MAKING IT VERY RESISTANT TO SURFACE
CRACKS WORKS NICELY AND LASTS A LONG TIME AS IT DOES NOT
OXIDIZE AS MUCH AS GEL COAT. THE ONLT NEGATIVE PAINT HAS TO
GEL COAT IN THIS APPLICATION IS THAT GEL COAT CAN BE SANDED
IF SCRATHED, PAINT COMES OFF AND MUST BE REPAINTED. THE
PERFECT TIME TO DO THIS ALMOST PERMANENT REPAIR IS WHEN A
NEW OWNER BUYS THE BOAT AND RENAMES IT. IF THE PREVIUOS NAME
ON THE TRANSOM HAS BEEN THERE FOR YEARS, IT WILL BE PRETTY
HARD TO ELIMINATE THE GHOSTING THAT THE AREA UNDER WHERE THE
OLD NAME WAS. PAINTING THE ENTIRE TRANSOM KILLS TWO BIRDS
WITH ONE STONE.    I'll take some
photos after the sun comes up.    I'm up
early with sore muscles/joints after buffing and polishing
the boat the last three days, and I'm only half done!
 The red gel coat on the rubrail was terribly oxidized, but
I've been able to get it back to "pretty good"
with some aggressive rubbing compound and then a polishing
compound.  The bootstripe also got the same treatment and
looks great now.  I used the polishing compound on the
white gelcoat and that seemed to even out the color.  I
just started waxing! yesterday afternoon.  I've used
the Collinite Fleetwax before and it would last a year on a
freshwater lake.  I'll see how it goes in saltwater.
 <<<Does anyone have a favorite wax that makes
removing the diesel soot smudge easier?>>> DUANE, THAT’S WHAT HIGH SCHOOL DROP
OUT BOATYARD WORKERS ARE FOR. I WONT ARM WRESTLE YOU FOR A
FEW WEEKS…  One of the yard workers
recommended "Marykate On&Off Hull&Bottom
Cleaner" for the scum line.  It says it also removes
the diesel soot smudge.  I have had trouble removing that
smudge with ANY cleaner.  Last time I worked on that in the
water I had to use a rubbing compound by hand.
 <<<<Any recommendations on a
product?>>>>THAT
STUFF REALLY WORKS. SOME GEL COAT SUPPLIERS RECOMMEND
AGAINST USING IT. DON’T HAVE DEFINITVE ANSWER FOR YOU.
 Thanks,
MY PLEASUREDuane       
JOELWanderer, SM#477









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