Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Smoking Gun...

James Alton
 

Porter,

  In general I have observed black smoke from a number of different marine diesels due to the engine being overloaded.  The cause can be marine growth, too large of a prop etc.  There could certainly be other reasons and I am not an expert, just sharing my own experiences in the Marine business.  If you are serious about the boat, changing the prop to a smaller one to test would seem worth it to me.  Perhaps the owner would help pay for the lift and prop change out?

Best of luck,

James Alton
SV Sueno,  Maramu #220

On Mar 30, 2017, at 8:38 AM, W Porter McRoberts portermcroberts@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Gentlemen (and any ladies),


Once again I need your sage advice.

The situation exists as follows:

I’ve found what appears to be a great boat, for what I think a reasonable price with a quite reasonable owner.  2010 54 hull 152.

The survey with Dave Huffman confirms an excellent boat free of any serious concerns save a smoking engine.

And here in lies the friction:

The engine black stacks the water under a load.  Black smoke out the exhaust with carbon on the water when increasing load. Start-up is good. Acceleration is good. Engine goes to 2700rpm and quickly.  Engine serviced very regularly without issue.  Volvo Martinique ( and multiple trips to the engine room with multiple mechanics) agrees there is an issue and have suggested either a new engine or a long-block change out, but has not offered an actual diagnosis as they agree the symptoms are present but that can’t find the disease.  Prop is reasonably clean.  

I am told by the broker that the prop is too large and this is likely the issue.
I am told by the owner (who he himself has a good working knowledge of diesels) this is normal for a diesel and there is nothing really wrong.
I am told by Nigel Calder in no uncertain terms: a common rail diesel such as the D3-110 should never smoke and is indicative of a serious issue.
The turbo is clean per Volvo.  And the owner confirms regular open throttle to clean out the turbo. 

I have already in place (3 weeks) plans to bring the boat back to the US and flag delineation etc has begun, some funds already transferred.   

Option one:  Accept the boat as is.
Option two: reject the boat and do not complete the deal, Pay crew for all cancelled airlines etc.
Option three: work towards a half way circumstance where owner and buyer share the financial burden of fix/replace.
Option four: your great ideas! 


I very much appreciate your consideration!!

Porter McRoberts



On Feb 19, 2017, at 2:38 PM, W Porter McRoberts <portermcroberts@...> wrote:

Bill- No I do not mind in the least!!!

All comments very much appreciated! I think once we get under there other findings may elucidate the nature and seriousness of the problem. A Volvo computer check would be helpful i think too.  

Interesting that you state even a Volvo mechanic would not implicitly “fully understand the Volvo system.” 
Thats a little disconcerting.  

I really appreciate it.

Thanks Amigo.

Porter










On Feb 19, 2017, at 2:29 PM, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


Porter,  

I hope that you do not mind receiving comments that do dot definitively solve your issue. Here are some of my thoughts:

I think Nigel Calder know something about a lot of things, and I sometimes disagree with him, especially when he uses generalizations and absolutes.

As Mark said, black smoke is an indication of unburnt diesel. The Volvo D3-110 computer and sensors appear to me to be one of the most misunderstood and most criticized systems in the marine business. It is extremely difficult to find a Volvo certified mechanic that completely understands the computer logic, controls and the sensors. Most of them repair these engines using the "bingo method" of repair which is they start replacing parts until they eventually "bingo." 

Someone needs to fully understand the Volvo system to find the answer. I certainly do not and I do not intend to learn it.

That said, I am betting that the Volvo D3-110 computer primes during the beginning of the start cycle and that this increase of diesel at startup may be normal to a limit, but I do not know the limit, not do I know what controls the limit and if it is adjustable. I believe that once the engine has started the Volvo sensors and computer work together to ensure that the engine is not over-fueled...this eliminates the cause of the black smoke you see at starting.

You state that Calder said, "...it indicates something serious...always.” This is the type of absolute statement that really bothers me about him, because it tells you nothing...what is "serious?" My serious and your serious may be two completely different things. And, "...always" is not possible in the marine business except that things are "always" unpredictable. I know a lot of people like Calder, and he knows a lot more than me, but it is things like this that are very troubling to me, but not "always."

Best,

Bill
X-BeBe
Galveston, Texas

On Sun, Feb 19, 2017 at 12:40 PM, Porter McRoberts portermcroberts@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>wrote:
 

That's comforting. To say the least!  
I'll be sure to check. 

Many thanks Mark



On Feb 19, 2017, at 12:03 PM, 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

Porter,

 

The good news it is definitely not the turbo charger. When the turbo charger goes out you will lack RPM and put out a huge cloud of black smoke with a warm engine (ask me how I know this).

 

A lot of diesels will puff a little black smoke at start. It is an indication of fuel not being burned. It can be due to any number of things such as air in the fuel line or poor fuel quality. When was the last time the fuel filters were changed? (note I said “filters” with an S). Most likely your issue, if you have an issue, is fuel related.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currenlty cruising – Cambridge Cay- Exuma Islands, Bahamas

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com [mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] 
Sent: Sunday, February 19, 2017 11:16 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Smoking Gun...

 

  

Good Sunday morning you Oracles!

Just took Nigel Calder’s Diesel class.  Fascinating.  
I think humans are less complex!

Anyway quick question.  We are in the process of working through buying what seems like a great 2010 54.  

But…  did notice a big puff of black smoke on cold start up while visiting the boat.  Lasted 5 seconds then cleared up.. Owner said no problem.  Nigel disagreed.  He said on a common-rail like the Volvo D3-110 it indicates something serious.  "Always.”

Warm starts seem ok.  The remainder of the trip no smoke. I am sorry that I haven’t spent enough time in the engine room yet to have more details.  

Clearly it's a mixture issue, possible turbo?  

Any thoughts?  I am going down with Dave Huffman in a few weeks.

Always so very appreciated.

Porter

 




















Re: R: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: water separator filter on Santorin

Craig Briggs
 

Antonio,
I have posted 2 pictures of my fuel line setup. It would seem you do not need the "T" off your Racor at all. Just keep your original water separator as is and simply insert the Racor in the feed line to the engine. By the way, you can see I have an extra line to feed my generator - there is no issue with fuel going both directions. 
Cheers, Craig  SN68 Sangaris 


---In amelyachtowners@..., <sangaris@...> wrote :

I'd be happy to, Antonio, and can do so next week after I go to the boat. I'll post them on this site.
Craig SN68 Sangaris


---In amelyachtowners@..., <stilemare@...> wrote :

Hi Craig,
Thank you for your answer, I am thinking to follow your installation, can you send me some pics of your solution?
Thank you a lot.
Antonio
SN 108 vagabundo
Rome
--------------------------------------------
Mer 22/3/17, sangaris@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> ha scritto:

Oggetto: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: water separator filter on Santorin
A: amelyachtowners@...
Data: Mercoledì 22 marzo 2017, 21:45

Hi Antonio, On our
Santorin we kept the original Perkins water/diesel separator
and added the Parker Racor fuel between that and the engine.
That way you do not disturb the line to the Espar heater and
you retain the water-in-fuel electric warning sensor that is
in the original separator, which will light a warning light
on the engine control panel.
That being
said, I see no problem with your installation. The Espar
pump is such a low volume pump that I can't see it
sucking fuel from the engine side, which is totally closed.
And, if it is running when the engine is running it would
still not draw from the engine side.

Cheers,
Craig Briggs, SN#68 Sangaris

---In amelyachtowners@...,
<stilemare@...>
wrote :

Hi owners, is
Vagabundo calling.... I want upgrade my old water/gasoline
separator to a new parker system. You can see in the first
and second pics my actual installation: One old decanter
with two IN and two OUT hole; in one of this there is the
eberspacker pump. In the new "racor" instead I
have only one IN and one OUT...so I have to chose where
install the eberspacker suction duct, you can see in the
last pics my solution. I have fear that in my installation
the heater pump could create problem to the engine in the
case If it finish gasoline inside the filter. I upload the
pics on facebook and on the group.

QUESTION: wich is your opinion? Will eberspacker such from
tank ? Or from the filter ?!?

Thanks and Fair wind

Antonio
Amel Santorin 108
"vagabundo"
Roma


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Smoking Gun...

John Clark
 

Hi Porter,
   I always thought black smoke was indicative of an injector issue, ie too much fuel being dumped into the cylinders, not a "lower end" issue that a long block change out would address.  

Since you are buying a boat for world cruising, you should definitely have the issue resolved before completing the purchase.  You don't want to deal with this in Fiji!  New engine for a 54 runs what about $20-30K?   If the owner will come off the price go ahead and get a new engine.  You may even be able to sell the old one to reduce the expense.  

Regarding the "mechanics,"  they should be able to give you a definitive explanation for the issue before suggesting a new engine.  That smells fishy to me.    If the boat is reliable in the short term, ie can get you back to Lauderdale then maybe it would be good to get her someplace with better "mechanics" or even see if Joel will take a peek at it.  I'm sure Joel can recommend some high quality honest mechanics to look at her. 

Good luck, keep on plugging away at it!

    Regards,  John

John Clark
Vent de Soleil  SM37
Great Bay, Sint Martin 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Smoking Gun...

W Porter McRoberts <portermcroberts@...>
 

Gentlemen (and any ladies),

Once again I need your sage advice.

The situation exists as follows:

I’ve found what appears to be a great boat, for what I think a reasonable price with a quite reasonable owner.  2010 54 hull 152.

The survey with Dave Huffman confirms an excellent boat free of any serious concerns save a smoking engine.

And here in lies the friction:

The engine black stacks the water under a load.  Black smoke out the exhaust with carbon on the water when increasing load. Start-up is good. Acceleration is good. Engine goes to 2700rpm and quickly.  Engine serviced very regularly without issue.  Volvo Martinique ( and multiple trips to the engine room with multiple mechanics) agrees there is an issue and have suggested either a new engine or a long-block change out, but has not offered an actual diagnosis as they agree the symptoms are present but that can’t find the disease.  Prop is reasonably clean.  

I am told by the broker that the prop is too large and this is likely the issue.
I am told by the owner (who he himself has a good working knowledge of diesels) this is normal for a diesel and there is nothing really wrong.
I am told by Nigel Calder in no uncertain terms: a common rail diesel such as the D3-110 should never smoke and is indicative of a serious issue.
The turbo is clean per Volvo.  And the owner confirms regular open throttle to clean out the turbo. 

I have already in place (3 weeks) plans to bring the boat back to the US and flag delineation etc has begun, some funds already transferred.   

Option one:  Accept the boat as is.
Option two: reject the boat and do not complete the deal, Pay crew for all cancelled airlines etc.
Option three: work towards a half way circumstance where owner and buyer share the financial burden of fix/replace.
Option four: your great ideas! 


I very much appreciate your consideration!!

Porter McRoberts



On Feb 19, 2017, at 2:38 PM, W Porter McRoberts <portermcroberts@...> wrote:

Bill- No I do not mind in the least!!!

All comments very much appreciated! I think once we get under there other findings may elucidate the nature and seriousness of the problem. A Volvo computer check would be helpful i think too.  

Interesting that you state even a Volvo mechanic would not implicitly “fully understand the Volvo system.” 
Thats a little disconcerting.  

I really appreciate it.

Thanks Amigo.

Porter










On Feb 19, 2017, at 2:29 PM, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


Porter,  

I hope that you do not mind receiving comments that do dot definitively solve your issue. Here are some of my thoughts:

I think Nigel Calder know something about a lot of things, and I sometimes disagree with him, especially when he uses generalizations and absolutes.

As Mark said, black smoke is an indication of unburnt diesel. The Volvo D3-110 computer and sensors appear to me to be one of the most misunderstood and most criticized systems in the marine business. It is extremely difficult to find a Volvo certified mechanic that completely understands the computer logic, controls and the sensors. Most of them repair these engines using the "bingo method" of repair which is they start replacing parts until they eventually "bingo." 

Someone needs to fully understand the Volvo system to find the answer. I certainly do not and I do not intend to learn it.

That said, I am betting that the Volvo D3-110 computer primes during the beginning of the start cycle and that this increase of diesel at startup may be normal to a limit, but I do not know the limit, not do I know what controls the limit and if it is adjustable. I believe that once the engine has started the Volvo sensors and computer work together to ensure that the engine is not over-fueled...this eliminates the cause of the black smoke you see at starting.

You state that Calder said, "...it indicates something serious...always.” This is the type of absolute statement that really bothers me about him, because it tells you nothing...what is "serious?" My serious and your serious may be two completely different things. And, "...always" is not possible in the marine business except that things are "always" unpredictable. I know a lot of people like Calder, and he knows a lot more than me, but it is things like this that are very troubling to me, but not "always."

Best,

Bill
X-BeBe
Galveston, Texas

On Sun, Feb 19, 2017 at 12:40 PM, Porter McRoberts portermcroberts@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>wrote:
 

That's comforting. To say the least!  
I'll be sure to check. 

Many thanks Mark



On Feb 19, 2017, at 12:03 PM, 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

Porter,

 

The good news it is definitely not the turbo charger. When the turbo charger goes out you will lack RPM and put out a huge cloud of black smoke with a warm engine (ask me how I know this).

 

A lot of diesels will puff a little black smoke at start. It is an indication of fuel not being burned. It can be due to any number of things such as air in the fuel line or poor fuel quality. When was the last time the fuel filters were changed? (note I said “filters” with an S). Most likely your issue, if you have an issue, is fuel related.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currenlty cruising – Cambridge Cay- Exuma Islands, Bahamas

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com [mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] 
Sent: Sunday, February 19, 2017 11:16 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Smoking Gun...

 

  

Good Sunday morning you Oracles!

Just took Nigel Calder’s Diesel class.  Fascinating.  
I think humans are less complex!

Anyway quick question.  We are in the process of working through buying what seems like a great 2010 54.  

But…  did notice a big puff of black smoke on cold start up while visiting the boat.  Lasted 5 seconds then cleared up.. Owner said no problem.  Nigel disagreed.  He said on a common-rail like the Volvo D3-110 it indicates something serious.  "Always.”

Warm starts seem ok.  The remainder of the trip no smoke. I am sorry that I haven’t spent enough time in the engine room yet to have more details.  

Clearly it's a mixture issue, possible turbo?  

Any thoughts?  I am going down with Dave Huffman in a few weeks.

Always so very appreciated.

Porter

 


















Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Tiny lights on 24V panel

Ben and Gayle Super Maramu #347
 

I bought one on Amazon .  Slightly larger than original.  $6.00 
 
Sold by: SUNS International, LLC


Ben Driver
S/V La Bella Vita
SM #347

On Mar 29, 2017, at 7:30 PM, capt.anderson@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

For the 220V panel, does anyone have a source for the green "AC Power Available" light? Maud says Amel doesn't have them anymore.
The best solution, a Blue Sea AC Amp/Volt meter ala Bill R/Bebe, is not in the budget for me right now.
Best
Jim
SM384 Sirena Azul
Seattle


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Tiny lights on 24V panel

greatketch@...
 

No need for surgery of the existing lamp.  These are industry standard panel indicator lamps to fit a 12mm hole. They are easily available in a wide range of voltages and colors (if green shouldn't be to your taste!)

You can buy them from Amazon for US$7 in any color you might like. For example Amazon item number B01N7XVWTT  As you browse for these, the key specifications are they have to fit a 12mm hole, and run on 220V.  Be a bit careful, there are similar lamps with a 12mm face diameter that fit a 9mm hole!

Important Note:  that 12mm hole spec is from my boat's panel.  Double check yours to see it it is the same.

I am sure there are suppliers could get them even cheaper.

It is always useful to remember that Amel didn't have things like this custom made, that would have been extraordinarily expensive--to no benefit. They bought things that were easily available to them at the time. It's always a good idea to search industrial supply chains for these kinds of routine parts, most are still easily available with a bit of google work--once you know what to ask for!

Bill Kinney
SM#160 Harmonie
Ponce PR


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Tiny lights on 24V panel

eric freedman
 

I cut the light socket open with a very fine blade ( a jewelers saw). I then removed the led and the resistor.

I put 2 new LED’s in parallel for more light and soldered the resistor back in place. I glued the socket back together with model cement.

It has been working fine for about 4 or 5 years.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Wednesday, March 29, 2017 10:30 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Tiny lights on 24V panel

 

 

For the 220V panel, does anyone have a source for the green "AC Power Available" light? Maud says Amel doesn't have them anymore.
The best solution, a Blue Sea AC Amp/Volt meter ala Bill R/Bebe, is not in the budget for me right now.
Best
Jim
SM384 Sirena Azul
Seattle


Re: Tiny lights on 24V panel

Jim Anderson
 

For the 220V panel, does anyone have a source for the green "AC Power Available" light? Maud says Amel doesn't have them anymore.
The best solution, a Blue Sea AC Amp/Volt meter ala Bill R/Bebe, is not in the budget for me right now.
Best
Jim
SM384 Sirena Azul
Seattle


Re: Online access to Amel manuals

Jacob Champness
 

+1  That would be sweet!


1986 Maramu replacing cutlass bearing

Jacob Champness
 

Hi all.  


So it's looking pretty good for us to finally become real Amel owners.  The 1986 Maramu we're looking at needs the cutlass bearing replaced.  This is not a job I've undertaken before.  There are plenty of resources about it online, but I wondered if there's anything particular about doing the job on a Maramu that I should be aware of?  


Thanks for any advice!


Jacob


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Super Maramu Dodger window replacement

greatketch@...
 

Gary,

My engineering opinion is that going with the 3/8 thickness will be just fine.  It's 96% of the thickness of the original, and it is not like 3/8" material was available in France and rejected because it was too weak...

It is unlikely that the darker color will significantly affect the crazing that occurs with long term UV exposure, since that is predominantly a surface effect.  I am not a fan of the tinted windows, but that is really just my own esthetic, not an engineering judgement.

Choice of material for this application is always a trade-off.  Lexan (and similar brands) are stronger to impast failure, but shorter lived in UV exposure without custom coating. Here is a good summary:

I am not sure what the original material was on the windscreen. The panels on my boat were replaced with 3/8" clear plexiglass by the previous owner.

Bill Kinney
SM#160 Harmonie
Ponce, PR


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Super Maramu Dodger window replacement

Ben and Gayle Super Maramu #347
 

Hi Gary,
I replaced my windows in St Martin last year with a tinted acrylic and they are much better than clear on a sunny day and nite time vision is not an issue.  However, after requesting 10mm they instead installed 9mm (.354) and it is too thin. It decreases the weight of the panes causing an open port windshield too flutter in a strong wind.  I would recommend staying closer to 10mm.  I will replace my windshield again in Martinique this summer with 10mm.
Ben

Ben and Gayle 
La Bella Vita
SM #347
6S


On Mar 28, 2017, at 6:40 AM, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Gary,

We used 10mm Plexiglass brand because it supposedly scratches less. We picked a gray tint. We tried to pick a tint darkness about the same as a 54 or 55. Yes, visibility is slightly changed, but it was not an issue for us and far outweighs the advantages in full sun...And you can always open the helm side. We also had sunbrella sunscreens made for the front, that allows opening the port side. We also cut new lock-downs for the port side. With the groove for the D gasket, the notching, and beveling required for the port side, you may want to consider a pro. Our total installed costs for 4 pieces plus the latches was about 900 euro, however I was told the guy increased the price about 200 the next time. 

I am not sure which sealant was used. When you remove the sides and the starboard front, you will see that about 1" is painted. This is important to get the right look. 


CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Galveston Island
Sent using Google Fi
+1(832) 380-4970

   


On Mar 28, 2017 00:10, "amelliahona" <no_reply@...> wrote:
 

Hi Bill and all: 


I am preparing to replace my dodger windows due to crazing.  I measured the existing plexiglass (aka acrylic, perspex) and it is 10 mm thick (equivalent to 0.3937 inches thick.  The closest available here on the western side of the Atlantic is 3/8 ths inch thick = 0.375 inches thick.  Difference of almost 19 thousandths of an inch.  I don't have much choice but it worries me a bit that structurally it isn't as strong as the original.  Any thoughts?

Bill, as you used something other than clear plexiglass did you find that detrimental to visibility at night?  I have seen a few boats with the smoked plexiglass and they do look cool and I suspect are less susceptible to crazing.  What are folks thoughts on that?

What sealant have folks used?  I am seeing the Dow Corning 795 is recommended by many.  Thoughts on this?

Thanks for the thoughts on using gel coat to mask the edges of the plexiglass where sealant  interfaces.

Thanks in advance for sharing your experiences. 

Gary S. Silver    Amel Super Maramu 2000   Hull # 335  - Currently Puerto Del Rey Puerto Rico



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Super Maramu Dodger window replacement

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Gary,

We used 10mm Plexiglass brand because it supposedly scratches less. We picked a gray tint. We tried to pick a tint darkness about the same as a 54 or 55. Yes, visibility is slightly changed, but it was not an issue for us and far outweighs the advantages in full sun...And you can always open the helm side. We also had sunbrella sunscreens made for the front, that allows opening the port side. We also cut new lock-downs for the port side. With the groove for the D gasket, the notching, and beveling required for the port side, you may want to consider a pro. Our total installed costs for 4 pieces plus the latches was about 900 euro, however I was told the guy increased the price about 200 the next time. 

I am not sure which sealant was used. When you remove the sides and the starboard front, you will see that about 1" is painted. This is important to get the right look. 


CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Galveston Island
Sent using Google Fi
+1(832) 380-4970

   


On Mar 28, 2017 00:10, "amelliahona" <no_reply@...> wrote:
 

Hi Bill and all: 


I am preparing to replace my dodger windows due to crazing.  I measured the existing plexiglass (aka acrylic, perspex) and it is 10 mm thick (equivalent to 0.3937 inches thick.  The closest available here on the western side of the Atlantic is 3/8 ths inch thick = 0.375 inches thick.  Difference of almost 19 thousandths of an inch.  I don't have much choice but it worries me a bit that structurally it isn't as strong as the original.  Any thoughts?

Bill, as you used something other than clear plexiglass did you find that detrimental to visibility at night?  I have seen a few boats with the smoked plexiglass and they do look cool and I suspect are less susceptible to crazing.  What are folks thoughts on that?

What sealant have folks used?  I am seeing the Dow Corning 795 is recommended by many.  Thoughts on this?

Thanks for the thoughts on using gel coat to mask the edges of the plexiglass where sealant  interfaces.

Thanks in advance for sharing your experiences. 

Gary S. Silver    Amel Super Maramu 2000   Hull # 335  - Currently Puerto Del Rey Puerto Rico



Re: Online access to Amel manuals

JUSTIN OLDHAM
 

A Dropbox link would be very helpful.  Thank you!


---In amelyachtowners@..., <dave_benjamin@...> wrote :

For some time we've kept some Amel manuals on the Island Planet Sails website for people to download. I think what's happening is some people aren't actually downloading the manual but opening the page every time they want to reference it. We're happy to keep these resources available, but just ask that people either download it or ask us to email a copy. Our web host is about to raise the rates due to the volume of downloads.


I can email a Dropbox link as well that might be easier to use than the PDF on the website. 



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Super Maramu Dodger window replacement

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Hi Bill and all: 

I am preparing to replace my dodger windows due to crazing.  I measured the existing plexiglass (aka acrylic, perspex) and it is 10 mm thick (equivalent to 0.3937 inches thick.  The closest available here on the western side of the Atlantic is 3/8 ths inch thick = 0.375 inches thick.  Difference of almost 19 thousandths of an inch.  I don't have much choice but it worries me a bit that structurally it isn't as strong as the original.  Any thoughts?

Bill, as you used something other than clear plexiglass did you find that detrimental to visibility at night?  I have seen a few boats with the smoked plexiglass and they do look cool and I suspect are less susceptible to crazing.  What are folks thoughts on that?

What sealant have folks used?  I am seeing the Dow Corning 795 is recommended by many.  Thoughts on this?

Thanks for the thoughts on using gel coat to mask the edges of the plexiglass where sealant  interfaces.

Thanks in advance for sharing your experiences. 

Gary S. Silver    Amel Super Maramu 2000   Hull # 335  - Currently Puerto Del Rey Puerto Rico


Online access to Amel manuals

Dave_Benjamin
 

For some time we've kept some Amel manuals on the Island Planet Sails website for people to download. I think what's happening is some people aren't actually downloading the manual but opening the page every time they want to reference it. We're happy to keep these resources available, but just ask that people either download it or ask us to email a copy. Our web host is about to raise the rates due to the volume of downloads.


I can email a Dropbox link as well that might be easier to use than the PDF on the website. 



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Port and Door Holders...

Stephen Davis
 

Hi Pat,

I forgot to mention that rig rite seems to think this stuff is made of gold. Budget Marine in the Caribbean and Caribe Marine in Martinique have Goiot gaskets and parts for a lot less money if you are headed this way next season

Steve Davis
Aloha SM72
St Maarten 

On Mar 27, 2017, at 09:28, Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Just checked with Rig Rite , prices seem a bit crazy, gasket $8 /ft. , hold open mushroom knobs $29. each , set of 4 plastic washers per hatch  to provide friction to hold open hatches $35 per set of 4 . I will try to source gasket materials elsewhere and rotate my mushroom knobs.
Pat SM#123


-----Original Message-----
From: 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Sun, Mar 26, 2017 12:25 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Port and Door Holders...

 
They were not made by Goiot. I ordered 12 of them from Amel about 4 years ago. 

Best,


CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Galveston Island
Sent using Google Fi
+1(832) 380-4970

   

On Mar 25, 2017 19:45, "greatketch@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 
On older SM's the portlights and some of the cabin doors were held open with black rubber "mushrooms".  After 20 years ours are starting to degrade.  I have never seen them available from Goiot (the original manufacturer) and Maude says Amel has none left in stock.

Anybody else already solve this problem and care to share?  I have a couple ideas of varying degrees of elegance but haven't finalized my thoughts yet...

Bill Kinney
SM#160 Harmonie
Ponce, PR
 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Turkey Qsails

Mark Pitt
 

I second this view of Qsails.  I received my sails last spring and they were of excellent quality.  I would certainly buy from them again.

  Mark Pitt
  Sabbatical III, ASM #419, Carloforte, Italy


On Mar 24, 2017, at 8:18 AM, danielmfrey63@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

James

my boat (SN 64) is based in Turkey / Kuşadası (west coast of Turkey). I am there almost each month. No problems with terrorism in this area - yet.

I ordered new sails for my boat at Q-sails and I was impressed by the quality of their work. I can recommend the company without hesitation and would buy my sails there again.

Best - Daniel

SY HEUREKA
SN 64 / 1992
Kuşadası / Turkey


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Port and Door Holders...

Patrick McAneny
 

Just checked with Rig Rite , prices seem a bit crazy, gasket $8 /ft. , hold open mushroom knobs $29. each , set of 4 plastic washers per hatch  to provide friction to hold open hatches $35 per set of 4 . I will try to source gasket materials elsewhere and rotate my mushroom knobs.
Pat SM#123


-----Original Message-----
From: 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners]
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Sun, Mar 26, 2017 12:25 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Port and Door Holders...

 
They were not made by Goiot. I ordered 12 of them from Amel about 4 years ago. 

Best,


CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Galveston Island
Sent using Google Fi
+1(832) 380-4970

   

On Mar 25, 2017 19:45, "greatketch@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 
On older SM's the portlights and some of the cabin doors were held open with black rubber "mushrooms".  After 20 years ours are starting to degrade.  I have never seen them available from Goiot (the original manufacturer) and Maude says Amel has none left in stock.

Anybody else already solve this problem and care to share?  I have a couple ideas of varying degrees of elegance but haven't finalized my thoughts yet...

Bill Kinney
SM#160 Harmonie
Ponce, PR
 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Port and Door Holders...

Stephen Davis
 

Bill,

I purchased mine from the USA Goiot distributor, and they have a Goiot part number. It seems to me, they are made by Goiot, and you stated they were not made by Goiot. 

At any rate, my only point is that they are available from Goiot should any Amel owner need some. Hope all is going well with you and Judy. 

Steve

On Mar 26, 2017, at 22:20, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Why am I wrong Steve?

I said that I bought some from Amel...AND, I bought some from Amel some years ago when I was placing a routine order for wear bushing parts. I think I bought 12 of them from Amel for about 5 euro. 

I also said the Goiot did not make them. Before I ordered them from Amel I sent a photo to the USA distributor of Goiot. They told me that they did not make them. 

I think that I am wrong and/or mistaken at times, but I cannot understand how I am wrong with what I said in this thread. 

Am I right?

Best,


CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Galveston Island
Sent using Google Fi
+1(832) 380-4970

   


On Mar 26, 2017 19:57, "Stephen Davis flyboyscd@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
 

Bill R is not wrong very often, but he is wrong about this. This is from the Rig Rite web page, and again, I purchased some of these recently from them:

Rubber Hold-open Knob w/ washer: Goi PT-KR:
Rubber Hold-open Knob is mounted on Cabin wall or ceiling and used to hold Ports open. Unit is 38mm OD x 20mm high and is mounted with (1) 5mm screw. Rubber base washer (34mm OD) is included. Used with Round and Larger Goiot Tradition Ports.  

 http://www.rigrite.com/Hardware/Hatch_&_Port/Goiot_Port_Parts.php#Tradition%20Port%20Parts


Steve Davis

Aloha SM72


On Sun, Mar 26, 2017 at 8:18 PM, greatketch@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...om> wrote:
 

Any idea who did make them?  Since La Rochelle doesn't have them anymore...