Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling

eric freedman
 

Pat,

I believe you can flip the plate over and use the other side.

If you have an opportunity get some thumb screws. They make taking the plate off much easier.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, April 01, 2017 10:13 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling

 

 

Eric , No , it may well be the original pump , and no I don't remember sanding the cover , but I will . It may be a good idea to replace the cover if its available . As I just posted back to Bill on a previous boat a had wear on the back plate as well as the cover. On that pump it had a very thin plate in the back of the pump that could be replaced , a wear plate. I don't know if this pump is the same. It fit so precisely it appeared to be the pump housing itself. Thanks for the suggestion.

Pat SM#123

-----Original Message-----
From: 'sailormon' kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Sat, Apr 1, 2017 9:45 am
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling

 

Sometimes the pump housing becomes out of round.

Did you try changing the entire pump?

Also did you sand the plate that closes the pump smooth?

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, April 01, 2017 8:56 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling

 

 

Bill , The impeller looks good even though it is a couple of years old and a couple of hundred hours on it . I will replace it per your suggestion , that it can look good , yet not provide adequate flow volume.

Thanks,

Pat SM#123

-----Original Message-----
From: 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Fri, Mar 31, 2017 5:46 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling

 

 

On Fri, Mar 31, 2017 at 3:57 PM, Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Mark, I keep my heat exchanger clean , its never been clogged more than one or two passages . I think I need to work my way from the strainer thru the pump.

Thanks , Pat

-----Original Message-----
From: 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Fri, Mar 31, 2017 9:43 am
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling

 

Pat,

 

Ditto on Bob’s comment. I would suggest starting at the sea-chest and working your way down the salt water flow. The tranny cooler is easy to service (do not over tighten when putting it back on or reconnecting the hoses). Also check the 90 degree elbows at the raw water pump. On the Yanmar, the raw water pump has a bar across it at the intake side. Not sue if Volvo has the same. I found a small clam lodged in there once. It took me forever to find it. I tore apart the entire cooling system and missed it the first time.

 

Most temperature issues are because the heat exchanger is not clean enough followed by after cooler flow issues for turbo charged engines. Taking the heat exchanger to a radiator shop is better than messing with the acid required aboard the boat.

 

Also check the thermostat on the coolant side. You can place it on a pan of water on the stove with a thermometer in it heat the water. Note the temperature when the thermostat operates. Check to see if it is in spec.

 

My guess is if you closely inspect the seawater flow passage from start to finish, you will find something partially blocked.

 

Also, check the manual for operating temperatures. Engines will increase in temperature as RPM or load increases. However, there is a cap on what it should warm to. The range should be in the owners manual. Our Yanmar runs at 180F under moderate load and 190F at full load.

 

Hope this helps. Good luck.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currenlty cruising – Turks and Caicos Islands

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Friday, March 31, 2017 4:49 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling

 

 

Pat, the transmission oil cooler should be checked every service as yes it does get blocked, mine blocked first time after 300hours in southern Australia due to the type of spaghetti thin sea grass in Port Phillip bay and the symptoms were identical to what you describe, temp goes up with revs, less water out exhaust. Easy to spot with the engine room hatch open look at the hose coming out of the transmission cooler, rev to 2500 (out of gear if your in dock)🙄 and the hose between the seawater pump and the trasmission cooler flattens as the pump creates a vacuum in this pipe as it's sucking and not getting flow.

 

The local Volvo dealer cleans the oil cooler every service, but he says this is good because the smaller tubes in the transmission cooler catch the weed and protect the heat exchanger from blocking up. It's a a really big job to clean weed out of the heat exchanger.

 

Bob Grey

Renaissance 3

On Friday, March 31, 2017, 08:38, sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

I always check my exhaust for water flow after starting the engine , a Volvo TMD 22A. It is difficult to determine as the exhaust pipe is partially under water , I wish it had been installed a couple of inches higher. I have never thought I had as much water expelled as I would expect. I have seen many boats which seemed to have a more robust exhaust of water. My temperature seems to rise when the rpms go above 2500 . The heat exchanger is always kept clean . I have never taken off the raw water manifold or the transmission cooler, for those that have , have you found any blockage (growth etc.)that could inhibit the flow of water .

Thanks,

Pat SM#123

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling

Patrick McAneny
 

Eric , No , it may well be the original pump , and no I don't remember sanding the cover , but I will . It may be a good idea to replace the cover if its available . As I just posted back to Bill on a previous boat a had wear on the back plate as well as the cover. On that pump it had a very thin plate in the back of the pump that could be replaced , a wear plate. I don't know if this pump is the same. It fit so precisely it appeared to be the pump housing itself. Thanks for the suggestion.
Pat SM#123


-----Original Message-----
From: 'sailormon' kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners]
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Sat, Apr 1, 2017 9:45 am
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling

 
Sometimes the pump housing becomes out of round.
Did you try changing the entire pump?
Also did you sand the plate that closes the pump smooth?
Fair Winds
Eric
Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376
 
 
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, April 01, 2017 8:56 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling
 
 
Bill , The impeller looks good even though it is a couple of years old and a couple of hundred hours on it . I will replace it per your suggestion , that it can look good , yet not provide adequate flow volume.
Thanks,
Pat SM#123

-----Original Message-----
From: 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Fri, Mar 31, 2017 5:46 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling
 
Pat,
 
Yes, check everything from the sea chest to the impeller on the engine.
 
 
Bill
 
On Fri, Mar 31, 2017 at 3:57 PM, Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 
Mark, I keep my heat exchanger clean , its never been clogged more than one or two passages . I think I need to work my way from the strainer thru the pump.
Thanks , Pat

-----Original Message-----
From: 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Fri, Mar 31, 2017 9:43 am
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling
 
Pat,
 
Ditto on Bob’s comment. I would suggest starting at the sea-chest and working your way down the salt water flow. The tranny cooler is easy to service (do not over tighten when putting it back on or reconnecting the hoses). Also check the 90 degree elbows at the raw water pump. On the Yanmar, the raw water pump has a bar across it at the intake side. Not sue if Volvo has the same. I found a small clam lodged in there once. It took me forever to find it. I tore apart the entire cooling system and missed it the first time.
 
Most temperature issues are because the heat exchanger is not clean enough followed by after cooler flow issues for turbo charged engines. Taking the heat exchanger to a radiator shop is better than messing with the acid required aboard the boat.
 
Also check the thermostat on the coolant side. You can place it on a pan of water on the stove with a thermometer in it heat the water. Note the temperature when the thermostat operates. Check to see if it is in spec.
 
My guess is if you closely inspect the seawater flow passage from start to finish, you will find something partially blocked.
 
Also, check the manual for operating temperatures. Engines will increase in temperature as RPM or load increases. However, there is a cap on what it should warm to. The range should be in the owners manual. Our Yanmar runs at 180F under moderate load and 190F at full load.
 
Hope this helps. Good luck.
 
 
With best regards,
 
Mark
 
Skipper
Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275
Currenlty cruising – Turks and Caicos Islands
 
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Friday, March 31, 2017 4:49 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling
 
 
Pat, the transmission oil cooler should be checked every service as yes it does get blocked, mine blocked first time after 300hours in southern Australia due to the type of spaghetti thin sea grass in Port Phillip bay and the symptoms were identical to what you describe, temp goes up with revs, less water out exhaust. Easy to spot with the engine room hatch open look at the hose coming out of the transmission cooler, rev to 2500 (out of gear if your in dock)🙄 and the hose between the seawater pump and the trasmission cooler flattens as the pump creates a vacuum in this pipe as it's sucking and not getting flow.
 
The local Volvo dealer cleans the oil cooler every service, but he says this is good because the smaller tubes in the transmission cooler catch the weed and protect the heat exchanger from blocking up. It's a a really big job to clean weed out of the heat exchanger.
 
Bob Grey
Renaissance 3
On Friday, March 31, 2017, 08:38, sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 
I always check my exhaust for water flow after starting the engine , a Volvo TMD 22A. It is difficult to determine as the exhaust pipe is partially under water , I wish it had been installed a couple of inches higher. I have never thought I had as much water expelled as I would expect. I have seen many boats which seemed to have a more robust exhaust of water. My temperature seems to rise when the rpms go above 2500 . The heat exchanger is always kept clean . I have never taken off the raw water manifold or the transmission cooler, for those that have , have you found any blockage (growth etc.)that could inhibit the flow of water .
Thanks,
Pat SM#123
 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling

Patrick McAneny
 

Bill , I agree , if all the blades are intact one assumes all is good. I had a problem on a previous boat where the plate on the pump behind the impeller wore as well as the cover plate diminishing efficiency .
Pat SM#123


-----Original Message-----
From: 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners]
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Sat, Apr 1, 2017 9:44 am
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling

 
Pat,

When you change the impeller, closely compare the old one to the new one. I believe that you will probably find the same thing I have with wear at the ends of the blades. Once I found what appeared to be a 45° angle cut at the end of used impeller blades, with all of the thickened ends of the blades worn off. It was wear. 

I am aware of the rubber separating from the metal hub with low hour impellers which are left in place for over a year. This causes the rubber to slip on the hub, reducing water flow. 

I think most of us consider only missing blades as an indication of failure. 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Galveston Island
Sent using Google Fi
+1(832) 380-4970

   

On Apr 1, 2017 07:56, "Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 
Bill , The impeller looks good even though it is a couple of years old and a couple of hundred hours on it . I will replace it per your suggestion , that it can look good , yet not provide adequate flow volume.
Thanks,
Pat SM#123


-----Original Message-----
From: 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Fri, Mar 31, 2017 5:46 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling

 

On Fri, Mar 31, 2017 at 3:57 PM, Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
 
Mark, I keep my heat exchanger clean , its never been clogged more than one or two passages . I think I need to work my way from the strainer thru the pump.
Thanks , Pat


-----Original Message-----
From: 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...om>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...om>
Sent: Fri, Mar 31, 2017 9:43 am
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling

 
Pat,
 
Ditto on Bob’s comment. I would suggest starting at the sea-chest and working your way down the salt water flow. The tranny cooler is easy to service (do not over tighten when putting it back on or reconnecting the hoses). Also check the 90 degree elbows at the raw water pump. On the Yanmar, the raw water pump has a bar across it at the intake side. Not sue if Volvo has the same. I found a small clam lodged in there once. It took me forever to find it. I tore apart the entire cooling system and missed it the first time.
 
Most temperature issues are because the heat exchanger is not clean enough followed by after cooler flow issues for turbo charged engines. Taking the heat exchanger to a radiator shop is better than messing with the acid required aboard the boat.
 
Also check the thermostat on the coolant side. You can place it on a pan of water on the stove with a thermometer in it heat the water. Note the temperature when the thermostat operates. Check to see if it is in spec.
 
My guess is if you closely inspect the seawater flow passage from start to finish, you will find something partially blocked.
 
Also, check the manual for operating temperatures. Engines will increase in temperature as RPM or load increases. However, there is a cap on what it should warm to. The range should be in the owners manual. Our Yanmar runs at 180F under moderate load and 190F at full load.
 
Hope this helps. Good luck.
 
 
With best regards,
 
Mark
 
Skipper
Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275
Currenlty cruising – Turks and Caicos Islands
 
From: amelyachtowners@...m [mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Friday, March 31, 2017 4:49 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...m
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling
 
 
Pat, the transmission oil cooler should be checked every service as yes it does get blocked, mine blocked first time after 300hours in southern Australia due to the type of spaghetti thin sea grass in Port Phillip bay and the symptoms were identical to what you describe, temp goes up with revs, less water out exhaust. Easy to spot with the engine room hatch open look at the hose coming out of the transmission cooler, rev to 2500 (out of gear if your in dock)🙄 and the hose between the seawater pump and the trasmission cooler flattens as the pump creates a vacuum in this pipe as it's sucking and not getting flow.
 
The local Volvo dealer cleans the oil cooler every service, but he says this is good because the smaller tubes in the transmission cooler catch the weed and protect the heat exchanger from blocking up. It's a a really big job to clean weed out of the heat exchanger.
 
Bob Grey
Renaissance 3
On Friday, March 31, 2017, 08:38, sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...om> wrote:
 
I always check my exhaust for water flow after starting the engine , a Volvo TMD 22A. It is difficult to determine as the exhaust pipe is partially under water , I wish it had been installed a couple of inches higher. I have never thought I had as much water expelled as I would expect. I have seen many boats which seemed to have a more robust exhaust of water. My temperature seems to rise when the rpms go above 2500 . The heat exchanger is always kept clean . I have never taken off the raw water manifold or the transmission cooler, for those that have , have you found any blockage (growth etc.)that could inhibit the flow of water .
Thanks,
Pat SM#123



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Negative ground slave solenoid

eric freedman
 

James,

there are many discussions on this site about the benefits of an isolated ground.

Did you read my note to you about the black wire that all of the negative items on the engine are connected to?

Please review what I wrote and then if you have any questions please ask me. I became intimate with the engine wiring after spending 5 days hanging over and around the wiring. I believe you have a bad connection shorting the black wire to the block or something else. The problem is almost 100% in the wiring of the engine and not in the harness to the control panel.

 

Amel does not have a wiring diagram of what they did to the engine.

However do not remove the isolated ground on either engine, you will open up a big can of worms.

If you are electrically competent just go after the black wire that starts at the Valeo solenoid and check every connection. You might have to use a set of channel lock pliers to remove the wiring from under the turbo.

I will post other photos of the wiring to the photo section in a few minutes.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, April 01, 2017 9:26 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Negative ground slave solenoid

 

 

What was Amel’s thinking on the need for an isolated ground for the generator and 185 amp alternator?  It seems to confound local Yanmar techs as there are no Yanmar wiring diagrams available to them.  Their initial reaction is to want to take the isolated ground out somehow.

 

This problem started as a non-functioning tachometer.  The flywheel sensor ground is indeed bad, pointing as you say up the line on the wiring loom or somewhere else on the engine.  A jumper wire placed on the tach sensor ground connector to another engine ground point brought it to life.  All was well until the genset was started on passage.  Genset started, isolated ground started clicking rapidly, engine failed to start, isolated ground was open, top push button engaged, engine would start, but tach indicated interference. 

 

In my initial thought on the initial tach issue I was thinking a bad ignition switch, but since finding that the tach sensor ground wouldn’t work, it points to somewhere in the loom or on an engine connection in my mind.  Opening the wiring loom on the engine would be a big job for me, if it were in the loom from the engine to the helm, that would be another matter entirely.  Jumping the ground to get the tach working was too easy.  Obviously, there is a larger problem.  What do you think the likelihood of the ground short being in the engine wiring loom?  Could it be a bad sensor or relay in the same circuit?  Does a wiring diagram of this motor with the isolated ground shown exist?


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Negative ground slave solenoid

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

James,

The answer to your question requires more words than I have this morning, but I can answer why...

Amel did this to eliminate galvanic corrosion. Amel has done more than any other boat manufacturer to eliminate galvanic corrosion. This is the reason that your mechanic has never seen it. 

There is a wiring diagram on the Group website at:

Believe!

Where are you, what model Amel, and hull#?


CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
X-BeBe #387
Galveston Island
Sent using Google Fi
+1(832) 380-4970

   

On Apr 1, 2017 08:25, "jamessterling88@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

What was Amel’s thinking on the need for an isolated ground for the generator and 185 amp alternator?  It seems to confound local Yanmar techs as there are no Yanmar wiring diagrams available to them.  Their initial reaction is to want to take the isolated ground out somehow.


This problem started as a non-functioning tachometer.  The flywheel sensor ground is indeed bad, pointing as you say up the line on the wiring loom or somewhere else on the engine.  A jumper wire placed on the tach sensor ground connector to another engine ground point brought it to life.  All was well until the genset was started on passage.  Genset started, isolated ground started clicking rapidly, engine failed to start, isolated ground was open, top push button engaged, engine would start, but tach indicated interference. 


In my initial thought on the initial tach issue I was thinking a bad ignition switch, but since finding that the tach sensor ground wouldn’t work, it points to somewhere in the loom or on an engine connection in my mind.  Opening the wiring loom on the engine would be a big job for me, if it were in the loom from the engine to the helm, that would be another matter entirely.  Jumping the ground to get the tach working was too easy.  Obviously, there is a larger problem.  What do you think the likelihood of the ground short being in the engine wiring loom?  Could it be a bad sensor or relay in the same circuit?  Does a wiring diagram of this motor with the isolated ground shown exist?


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Pat,

When you change the impeller, closely compare the old one to the new one. I believe that you will probably find the same thing I have with wear at the ends of the blades. Once I found what appeared to be a 45° angle cut at the end of used impeller blades, with all of the thickened ends of the blades worn off. It was wear. 

I am aware of the rubber separating from the metal hub with low hour impellers which are left in place for over a year. This causes the rubber to slip on the hub, reducing water flow. 

I think most of us consider only missing blades as an indication of failure. 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Galveston Island
Sent using Google Fi
+1(832) 380-4970

   

On Apr 1, 2017 07:56, "Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Bill , The impeller looks good even though it is a couple of years old and a couple of hundred hours on it . I will replace it per your suggestion , that it can look good , yet not provide adequate flow volume.
Thanks,
Pat SM#123


-----Original Message-----
From: 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Fri, Mar 31, 2017 5:46 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling

 

On Fri, Mar 31, 2017 at 3:57 PM, Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
 
Mark, I keep my heat exchanger clean , its never been clogged more than one or two passages . I think I need to work my way from the strainer thru the pump.
Thanks , Pat


-----Original Message-----
From: 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...om>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...om>
Sent: Fri, Mar 31, 2017 9:43 am
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling

 
Pat,
 
Ditto on Bob’s comment. I would suggest starting at the sea-chest and working your way down the salt water flow. The tranny cooler is easy to service (do not over tighten when putting it back on or reconnecting the hoses). Also check the 90 degree elbows at the raw water pump. On the Yanmar, the raw water pump has a bar across it at the intake side. Not sue if Volvo has the same. I found a small clam lodged in there once. It took me forever to find it. I tore apart the entire cooling system and missed it the first time.
 
Most temperature issues are because the heat exchanger is not clean enough followed by after cooler flow issues for turbo charged engines. Taking the heat exchanger to a radiator shop is better than messing with the acid required aboard the boat.
 
Also check the thermostat on the coolant side. You can place it on a pan of water on the stove with a thermometer in it heat the water. Note the temperature when the thermostat operates. Check to see if it is in spec.
 
My guess is if you closely inspect the seawater flow passage from start to finish, you will find something partially blocked.
 
Also, check the manual for operating temperatures. Engines will increase in temperature as RPM or load increases. However, there is a cap on what it should warm to. The range should be in the owners manual. Our Yanmar runs at 180F under moderate load and 190F at full load.
 
Hope this helps. Good luck.
 
 
With best regards,
 
Mark
 
Skipper
Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275
Currenlty cruising – Turks and Caicos Islands
 
From: amelyachtowners@...m [mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Friday, March 31, 2017 4:49 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...m
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling
 
 
Pat, the transmission oil cooler should be checked every service as yes it does get blocked, mine blocked first time after 300hours in southern Australia due to the type of spaghetti thin sea grass in Port Phillip bay and the symptoms were identical to what you describe, temp goes up with revs, less water out exhaust. Easy to spot with the engine room hatch open look at the hose coming out of the transmission cooler, rev to 2500 (out of gear if your in dock)🙄 and the hose between the seawater pump and the trasmission cooler flattens as the pump creates a vacuum in this pipe as it's sucking and not getting flow.
 
The local Volvo dealer cleans the oil cooler every service, but he says this is good because the smaller tubes in the transmission cooler catch the weed and protect the heat exchanger from blocking up. It's a a really big job to clean weed out of the heat exchanger.
 
Bob Grey
Renaissance 3
On Friday, March 31, 2017, 08:38, sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...om> wrote:
 
I always check my exhaust for water flow after starting the engine , a Volvo TMD 22A. It is difficult to determine as the exhaust pipe is partially under water , I wish it had been installed a couple of inches higher. I have never thought I had as much water expelled as I would expect. I have seen many boats which seemed to have a more robust exhaust of water. My temperature seems to rise when the rpms go above 2500 . The heat exchanger is always kept clean . I have never taken off the raw water manifold or the transmission cooler, for those that have , have you found any blockage (growth etc.)that could inhibit the flow of water .
Thanks,
Pat SM#123



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling

eric freedman
 

Sometimes the pump housing becomes out of round.

Did you try changing the entire pump?

Also did you sand the plate that closes the pump smooth?

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, April 01, 2017 8:56 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling

 

 

Bill , The impeller looks good even though it is a couple of years old and a couple of hundred hours on it . I will replace it per your suggestion , that it can look good , yet not provide adequate flow volume.

Thanks,

Pat SM#123

-----Original Message-----
From: 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Fri, Mar 31, 2017 5:46 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling

 

 

On Fri, Mar 31, 2017 at 3:57 PM, Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Mark, I keep my heat exchanger clean , its never been clogged more than one or two passages . I think I need to work my way from the strainer thru the pump.

Thanks , Pat

-----Original Message-----
From: 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Fri, Mar 31, 2017 9:43 am
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling

 

Pat,

 

Ditto on Bob’s comment. I would suggest starting at the sea-chest and working your way down the salt water flow. The tranny cooler is easy to service (do not over tighten when putting it back on or reconnecting the hoses). Also check the 90 degree elbows at the raw water pump. On the Yanmar, the raw water pump has a bar across it at the intake side. Not sue if Volvo has the same. I found a small clam lodged in there once. It took me forever to find it. I tore apart the entire cooling system and missed it the first time.

 

Most temperature issues are because the heat exchanger is not clean enough followed by after cooler flow issues for turbo charged engines. Taking the heat exchanger to a radiator shop is better than messing with the acid required aboard the boat.

 

Also check the thermostat on the coolant side. You can place it on a pan of water on the stove with a thermometer in it heat the water. Note the temperature when the thermostat operates. Check to see if it is in spec.

 

My guess is if you closely inspect the seawater flow passage from start to finish, you will find something partially blocked.

 

Also, check the manual for operating temperatures. Engines will increase in temperature as RPM or load increases. However, there is a cap on what it should warm to. The range should be in the owners manual. Our Yanmar runs at 180F under moderate load and 190F at full load.

 

Hope this helps. Good luck.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currenlty cruising – Turks and Caicos Islands

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Friday, March 31, 2017 4:49 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling

 

 

Pat, the transmission oil cooler should be checked every service as yes it does get blocked, mine blocked first time after 300hours in southern Australia due to the type of spaghetti thin sea grass in Port Phillip bay and the symptoms were identical to what you describe, temp goes up with revs, less water out exhaust. Easy to spot with the engine room hatch open look at the hose coming out of the transmission cooler, rev to 2500 (out of gear if your in dock)🙄 and the hose between the seawater pump and the trasmission cooler flattens as the pump creates a vacuum in this pipe as it's sucking and not getting flow.

 

The local Volvo dealer cleans the oil cooler every service, but he says this is good because the smaller tubes in the transmission cooler catch the weed and protect the heat exchanger from blocking up. It's a a really big job to clean weed out of the heat exchanger.

 

Bob Grey

Renaissance 3

On Friday, March 31, 2017, 08:38, sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

I always check my exhaust for water flow after starting the engine , a Volvo TMD 22A. It is difficult to determine as the exhaust pipe is partially under water , I wish it had been installed a couple of inches higher. I have never thought I had as much water expelled as I would expect. I have seen many boats which seemed to have a more robust exhaust of water. My temperature seems to rise when the rpms go above 2500 . The heat exchanger is always kept clean . I have never taken off the raw water manifold or the transmission cooler, for those that have , have you found any blockage (growth etc.)that could inhibit the flow of water .

Thanks,

Pat SM#123

 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Sea water chest

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Yes, there is a photo for the tool with dimensions that I uploaded. 

Search for "sea chest tools" in Photos on the Amel Yacht Owner's Yahoo website. 

You will find the tool I made that cleans from the top of the sea chest. I used this tool at least 8 times while circumnavigating. A few times for plastic removal, once for jellyfish and the rest for growth. Don't leave port without something to clean this!

The inside of that conduit from the outside of the hull to the ball valve is usually missed during the application of antifouling and, it is perfect for barnacle or mussel growth with the huge flow of water. 


CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Galveston Island
Sent using Google Fi
+1(832) 380-4970

   

On Apr 1, 2017 05:53, "Ron Hynes riffhynes@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

I have a '76 Meltem and have recently experienced a blockage below the sea cock feeding the chest. A diver was able to clear about 20cm from the hull surface to where the hose makes a 90 degree bend but was unable to clear further. Any ideas as to clear this last area would be appreciated.

Riff on Swan Song, Amel #29



Re: Negative ground slave solenoid

James Sterling
 

What was Amel’s thinking on the need for an isolated ground for the generator and 185 amp alternator?  It seems to confound local Yanmar techs as there are no Yanmar wiring diagrams available to them.  Their initial reaction is to want to take the isolated ground out somehow.


This problem started as a non-functioning tachometer.  The flywheel sensor ground is indeed bad, pointing as you say up the line on the wiring loom or somewhere else on the engine.  A jumper wire placed on the tach sensor ground connector to another engine ground point brought it to life.  All was well until the genset was started on passage.  Genset started, isolated ground started clicking rapidly, engine failed to start, isolated ground was open, top push button engaged, engine would start, but tach indicated interference. 


In my initial thought on the initial tach issue I was thinking a bad ignition switch, but since finding that the tach sensor ground wouldn’t work, it points to somewhere in the loom or on an engine connection in my mind.  Opening the wiring loom on the engine would be a big job for me, if it were in the loom from the engine to the helm, that would be another matter entirely.  Jumping the ground to get the tach working was too easy.  Obviously, there is a larger problem.  What do you think the likelihood of the ground short being in the engine wiring loom?  Could it be a bad sensor or relay in the same circuit?  Does a wiring diagram of this motor with the isolated ground shown exist?


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling

Patrick McAneny
 

Bill , The impeller looks good even though it is a couple of years old and a couple of hundred hours on it . I will replace it per your suggestion , that it can look good , yet not provide adequate flow volume.
Thanks,
Pat SM#123


-----Original Message-----
From: 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners]
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Fri, Mar 31, 2017 5:46 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling

 

On Fri, Mar 31, 2017 at 3:57 PM, Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 
Mark, I keep my heat exchanger clean , its never been clogged more than one or two passages . I think I need to work my way from the strainer thru the pump.
Thanks , Pat


-----Original Message-----
From: 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Fri, Mar 31, 2017 9:43 am
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling

 
Pat,
 
Ditto on Bob’s comment. I would suggest starting at the sea-chest and working your way down the salt water flow. The tranny cooler is easy to service (do not over tighten when putting it back on or reconnecting the hoses). Also check the 90 degree elbows at the raw water pump. On the Yanmar, the raw water pump has a bar across it at the intake side. Not sue if Volvo has the same. I found a small clam lodged in there once. It took me forever to find it. I tore apart the entire cooling system and missed it the first time.
 
Most temperature issues are because the heat exchanger is not clean enough followed by after cooler flow issues for turbo charged engines. Taking the heat exchanger to a radiator shop is better than messing with the acid required aboard the boat.
 
Also check the thermostat on the coolant side. You can place it on a pan of water on the stove with a thermometer in it heat the water. Note the temperature when the thermostat operates. Check to see if it is in spec.
 
My guess is if you closely inspect the seawater flow passage from start to finish, you will find something partially blocked.
 
Also, check the manual for operating temperatures. Engines will increase in temperature as RPM or load increases. However, there is a cap on what it should warm to. The range should be in the owners manual. Our Yanmar runs at 180F under moderate load and 190F at full load.
 
Hope this helps. Good luck.
 
 
With best regards,
 
Mark
 
Skipper
Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275
Currenlty cruising – Turks and Caicos Islands
 
From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com [mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Friday, March 31, 2017 4:49 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling
 
 
Pat, the transmission oil cooler should be checked every service as yes it does get blocked, mine blocked first time after 300hours in southern Australia due to the type of spaghetti thin sea grass in Port Phillip bay and the symptoms were identical to what you describe, temp goes up with revs, less water out exhaust. Easy to spot with the engine room hatch open look at the hose coming out of the transmission cooler, rev to 2500 (out of gear if your in dock)🙄 and the hose between the seawater pump and the trasmission cooler flattens as the pump creates a vacuum in this pipe as it's sucking and not getting flow.
 
The local Volvo dealer cleans the oil cooler every service, but he says this is good because the smaller tubes in the transmission cooler catch the weed and protect the heat exchanger from blocking up. It's a a really big job to clean weed out of the heat exchanger.
 
Bob Grey
Renaissance 3
On Friday, March 31, 2017, 08:38, sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
 
I always check my exhaust for water flow after starting the engine , a Volvo TMD 22A. It is difficult to determine as the exhaust pipe is partially under water , I wish it had been installed a couple of inches higher. I have never thought I had as much water expelled as I would expect. I have seen many boats which seemed to have a more robust exhaust of water. My temperature seems to rise when the rpms go above 2500 . The heat exchanger is always kept clean . I have never taken off the raw water manifold or the transmission cooler, for those that have , have you found any blockage (growth etc.)that could inhibit the flow of water .
Thanks,
Pat SM#123


Sea water chest

Ron Hynes <riffhynes@...>
 

I have a '76 Meltem and have recently experienced a blockage below the sea cock feeding the chest. A diver was able to clear about 20cm from the hull surface to where the hose makes a 90 degree bend but was unable to clear further. Any ideas as to clear this last area would be appreciated.

Riff on Swan Song, Amel #29


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Smoking Gun...

Beaute Olivier
 

Hello Porter,

as Mark says, you should be able to turn the blades with one finger. If not, the blades cannot take the same pitch and overload the engine.
This is a problem with the ball bearings of the blades. These are watertight ball bearings with steel balls (unlike the first generation of AUTOPROPS with open bearings and stainless steel balls). They need to be greased every time the boat is hauled out and at least once a year. These ones may not be watertight anymore, and the balls got rusty. They will probably need replacement. Did someone try to grease the bearings before launching?
The second problem was that the blades were fouled, and from what I see, the fouling may take off 20% of the engine's power (even with new bearings). I guess the prop is now clean!!

So, don't touch the engine until you have an AUTOPROP in working order. You could make the engine tests with the fixed prop that is originally supplied with the 54, as I guess the sellers will not be able to get new bearings and replace them quickly.

Have a nice day.

Olivier


On Saturday, April 1, 2017 6:11 AM, "'sailormon' kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners]" wrote:


 
The rebuild of the prop is simple, it just takes time. You can do it yourself.
Fair Winds
Eric
Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376
 
 
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Friday, March 31, 2017 5:54 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Smoking Gun...
 
 
I totally agree with Bill

6 months ago, my Auto prop was dirty (not as bas as the one on the video) and I had lot of black smoke and couldn't exceed 1350 rpm...
I scuba dive, cleaned it, then was back to 2400 rpm.

Since you already put out money for trip, haul out, etc. have the current owner have the propeller "properly" rebuilt (had mine 2 years ago) then go again for a test.
May be you split the cost. If it solves the problem, like I think it will do, then good. But should the engine still smoke, then i would pass...

Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Island Water World Marina, Sint Maarten, NA

--------------------------------------------
On Fri, 3/31/17, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Smoking Gun...
To: "amelyachtowners@..." <amelyachtowners@...>
Date: Friday, March 31, 2017, 4:38 PM


 









Porter that prop is fouled
enough to be the source of all of your issues.
I cannot guarantee that it is 100%
of the source, but probably is.
Bill
On Fri, Mar 31, 2017 at
12:40 PM, W Porter McRoberts portermcroberts@...
[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
wrote:















 









Bill
Included
below is a video showing the smoke as well as the belly of
the beast and the prop itself.I include the video so you can
asses as well.I really appreciate your
thoughts!

Porter
https://youtu.be/uUDC1Wu_KuU



On Mar
30, 2017, at 1:37 PM, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@...
[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.
com
> wrote:

Porter,
I am
really very surprised that Dave Huffman, the broker, the
Volvo mechanics, and Nigel Calder never asked if the
propellor was clean. The number one cause of the symptoms
you mentioned is an overloaded diesel engine. The number one
cause of an overloaded diesel on an Amel with an AutoProp is
growth on the blades...even a small amount of growth. Growth
causes the blades to pitch too much, biting too much water
and overloads the engine.
Also, from my experience, people
like Nigel Calder who make imperative and absolute
statements like "...should never smoke
and is indicative of a serious issue,"
are only correct the majority of the time and usually
provide good advice for gamblers. I hate
gambling.
So, I
will ask you: Is the propellor clean?
The other thing that I sometimes
hear from experts is that the H6 AutoProp is too large or
too small. Evidence that it is correct for a SM and a 54 is
that over 600 Amels are operating with them...I believe that
fact is much more credible than anyone's
opinion.
Lastly, some
of the Volvo D-3 110 have issues that sometimes even experts
cannot figure out. If you own a good one, you will love
it...if you own a bad one, good luck. That said, the chances
of that Volvo being a good one are very high because based
on the hull number, that engine was probably made in
Volvo's 4th-5th year of production of the D3
110.
My advice,
thoroughly clean that propellor and try things
again.
Best,
BillX-BeBe
On Thu, Mar 30, 2017 at
10:43 AM, 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [
amelyachtowners] ers@...> wrote:
 
Porter, I’m not sure
why you would trust the opinion of a group member rather
than your own instincts and opinions of the expert
mechanics? You seem convinced the boat has an issue and I
seriously doubt even the most knowledgeable members of this
group can guide or are willing to guide you down a
particular path.   If
this is the boat for you, then reach a deal with the owner.
Or, cut your losses and look for another
boat.  With best
regards, Mark SkipperSailing Vessel
- Cream Puff - SM2K - #275Currenlty
cruising – Turks and Caicos
Islandswww.creampuff.us 




W.
Porter McRoberts MD FAAPMR ABPMR ABA/PainDirector
Interventional Spine, Pain Medicine,
NeurosurgeryHoly Cross
HospitalFort Lauderdale,
FL Assistant Professor, University of
Miami School of Medicinewww.fouribis.comwww.internationalhouseofpain.
comportermcroberts@...












































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New file uploaded to amelyachtowners

amelyachtowners@...
 

Hello,


This email message is a notification to let you know that
a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the amelyachtowners
group.


File : /Eudora Soba GK340 Washing Machine/Eudora Soba GK340 parts list (En).pdf
Uploaded by : seagasm <seagasm@gmail.com>
Description : English Version


You can access this file at the URL:
https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/amelyachtowners/files/Eudora%20Soba%20GK340%20Washing%20Machine/Eudora%20Soba%20GK340%20parts%20list%20%28En%29.pdf


To learn more about file sharing for your group, please visit:
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Regards,


seagasm <seagasm@gmail.com>


New file uploaded to amelyachtowners

amelyachtowners@...
 

Hello,


This email message is a notification to let you know that
a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the amelyachtowners
group.


File : /Eudora Soba GK340 Washing Machine/Eudora Soba GK340 parts list (De).pdf
Uploaded by : seagasm <seagasm@gmail.com>
Description : German Version


You can access this file at the URL:
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To learn more about file sharing for your group, please visit:
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Regards,


seagasm <seagasm@gmail.com>


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Eumenia Goldkind EU340 washing machine

seagasm@...
 

Hi Bill, no the washing machine came with the boat, the best I can guess at this time, the original owner John Hofmann had it installed when he purchased from Amel back in '96.

I have posted the parts list in the files folder under the title, "Eudora Soba GK340" Maybe someone might recognize it.

Barry & Robyn
Tradewinds III SM 171


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Negative ground slave solenoid

eric freedman
 

Hi James,

I believe you are referring to the Valeo Solenoid with the rubber push button on top.

You can only get that one from Amel. However you can go to any starter motor / alternator shop and purchase an isolated ground solenoid. The only difference is you will not have the push button.

 

With respect to your electrical problem. The tachometer wire is a separate wire that runs from the sensor on the flywheel directly to the tachometer. The solenoid is not in any way connected to it. I believe you have a short in the black ground wire which I described in a post yesterday, shorting the tach wire as well. I believe you will have to open up the harness to find the problem. Fortunately the tach wire is easy to find. Start at the sensor at the flywheel and trace it to the connectors at the side of the engine near the foam of the fuel tank and see if it is shorted to some other wire.

 

I have some other ideas but this is the simplest one.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Friday, March 31, 2017 4:02 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Negative ground slave solenoid

 

 

Super Maramu 2000 #418
Longbow



---In amelyachtowners@..., <kimberlite@...> wrote :

James,

What boat do you have?

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Friday, March 31, 2017 12:52 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Negative ground slave solenoid

 

 

My slave solenoid has started clicking when the generator is running.  It also interferes with the Engine tach when the engine (4jh3-HTE) and genset are running together.  Has anyone had a similar problem?  I'd like to replace the solenoid anyway.  Is there an US replacement or is this part still available from Amel?

Thanks in advance.

James


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Negative ground slave solenoid

eric freedman
 

 

Hi James,

I believe you are referring to the Valeo Solenoid with the rubber push button on top.

You can only get that one from Amel. However you can go to any starter motor / alternator shop and purchase an isolated ground solenoid. The only difference is you will not have the push button.

 

With respect to your electrical problem. The tachometer wire is a separate wire that runs from the sensor on the flywheel directly to the tachometer. The solenoid is not in any way connected to it. I believe you have a short in the black ground wire which I described in a post yesterday, shorting the tach wire as well. I believe you will have to open up the harness to find the problem. Fortunately the tach wire is easy to find. Start at the sensor at the flywheel and trace it to the connectors at the side of the engine near the foam of the fuel tank and see if it is shorted to some other wire.

 

I have some other ideas but this is the simplest one.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Friday, March 31, 2017 4:02 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Negative ground slave solenoid

 

 

Super Maramu 2000 #418
Longbow



---In amelyachtowners@..., <kimberlite@...> wrote :

James,

What boat do you have?

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Friday, March 31, 2017 12:52 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Negative ground slave solenoid

 

 

My slave solenoid has started clicking when the generator is running.  It also interferes with the Engine tach when the engine (4jh3-HTE) and genset are running together.  Has anyone had a similar problem?  I'd like to replace the solenoid anyway.  Is there an US replacement or is this part still available from Amel?

Thanks in advance.

James


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Smoking Gun...

eric freedman
 

The rebuild of the prop is simple, it just takes time. You can do it yourself.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Friday, March 31, 2017 5:54 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Smoking Gun...

 

 

I totally agree with Bill

6 months ago, my Auto prop was dirty (not as bas as the one on the video) and I had lot of black smoke and couldn't exceed 1350 rpm...
I scuba dive, cleaned it, then was back to 2400 rpm.

Since you already put out money for trip, haul out, etc. have the current owner have the propeller "properly" rebuilt (had mine 2 years ago) then go again for a test.
May be you split the cost. If it solves the problem, like I think it will do, then good. But should the engine still smoke, then i would pass...

Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Island Water World Marina, Sint Maarten, NA

--------------------------------------------
On Fri, 3/31/17, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Smoking Gun...
To: "amelyachtowners@..." <amelyachtowners@...>
Date: Friday, March 31, 2017, 4:38 PM


 









Porter that prop is fouled
enough to be the source of all of your issues.
I cannot guarantee that it is 100%
of the source, but probably is.
Bill
On Fri, Mar 31, 2017 at
12:40 PM, W Porter McRoberts portermcroberts@...
[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
wrote:















 









Bill
Included
below is a video showing the smoke as well as the belly of
the beast and the prop itself.I include the video so you can
asses as well.I really appreciate your
thoughts!

Porter
https://youtu.be/uUDC1Wu_KuU



On Mar
30, 2017, at 1:37 PM, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@...
[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.
com
> wrote:

Porter,
I am
really very surprised that Dave Huffman, the broker, the
Volvo mechanics, and Nigel Calder never asked if the
propellor was clean. The number one cause of the symptoms
you mentioned is an overloaded diesel engine. The number one
cause of an overloaded diesel on an Amel with an AutoProp is
growth on the blades...even a small amount of growth. Growth
causes the blades to pitch too much, biting too much water
and overloads the engine.
Also, from my experience, people
like Nigel Calder who make imperative and absolute
statements like "...should never smoke
and is indicative of a serious issue,"
are only correct the majority of the time and usually
provide good advice for gamblers. I hate
gambling.
So, I
will ask you: Is the propellor clean?
The other thing that I sometimes
hear from experts is that the H6 AutoProp is too large or
too small. Evidence that it is correct for a SM and a 54 is
that over 600 Amels are operating with them...I believe that
fact is much more credible than anyone's
opinion.
Lastly, some
of the Volvo D-3 110 have issues that sometimes even experts
cannot figure out. If you own a good one, you will love
it...if you own a bad one, good luck. That said, the chances
of that Volvo being a good one are very high because based
on the hull number, that engine was probably made in
Volvo's 4th-5th year of production of the D3
110.
My advice,
thoroughly clean that propellor and try things
again.
Best,
BillX-BeBe
On Thu, Mar 30, 2017 at
10:43 AM, 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [
amelyachtowners] ers@...> wrote:
 
Porter, I’m not sure
why you would trust the opinion of a group member rather
than your own instincts and opinions of the expert
mechanics? You seem convinced the boat has an issue and I
seriously doubt even the most knowledgeable members of this
group can guide or are willing to guide you down a
particular path.   If
this is the boat for you, then reach a deal with the owner.
Or, cut your losses and look for another
boat.  With best
regards, Mark SkipperSailing Vessel
- Cream Puff - SM2K - #275Currenlty
cruising – Turks and Caicos
Islandswww.creampuff.us 




W.
Porter McRoberts MD FAAPMR ABPMR ABA/PainDirector
Interventional Spine, Pain Medicine,
NeurosurgeryHoly Cross
HospitalFort Lauderdale,
FL Assistant Professor, University of
Miami School of Medicinewww.fouribis.comwww.internationalhouseofpain.
comportermcroberts@...












































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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Negative ground slave solenoid

eric freedman
 

Hi James,

I believe you are referring to the Valeo Solenoid with the rubber push button on top.

You can only get that one from Amel. However you can go to any starter motor / alternator shop and purchase an isolated ground solenoid. The only difference is you will not have the push button.

 

With respect to your electrical problem. The tachometer wire is a separate wire that runs from the sensor on the flywheel directly to the tachometer. The solenoid is not in any way connected to it. I believe you have a short in the black ground wire which I described in a post yesterday, shorting the tach wire as well. I believe you will have to open up the harness to find the problem. Fortunately the tach wire is easy to find. Start at the sensor at the flywheel and trace it to the connectors at the side of the engine near the foam of the fuel tank and see if it is shorted to some other wire.

 

I have some other ideas but this is the simplest one.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Friday, March 31, 2017 4:02 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Negative ground slave solenoid

 

 

Super Maramu 2000 #418
Longbow



---In amelyachtowners@..., <kimberlite@...> wrote :

James,

What boat do you have?

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Friday, March 31, 2017 12:52 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Negative ground slave solenoid

 

 

My slave solenoid has started clicking when the generator is running.  It also interferes with the Engine tach when the engine (4jh3-HTE) and genset are running together.  Has anyone had a similar problem?  I'd like to replace the solenoid anyway.  Is there an US replacement or is this part still available from Amel?

Thanks in advance.

James


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Smoking Gun...

eric freedman
 

They should also be greased while out of the water.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Friday, March 31, 2017 3:22 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Smoking Gun...

 

 

That prop is really fowled. You should be able to turn the blades 360 degrees with one finger.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currenlty cruising – Turks and Caicos Islands

www.creampuff.us

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Friday, March 31, 2017 1:41 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Smoking Gun...

 

 

Bill

 

Included below is a video showing the smoke as well as the belly of the beast and the prop itself.I include the video so you can asses as well.

I really appreciate your thoughts!

 

 

Porter

 

 

 

 

 

On Mar 30, 2017, at 1:37 PM, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

 

Porter,

 

I am really very surprised that Dave Huffman, the broker, the Volvo mechanics, and Nigel Calder never asked if the propellor was clean. The number one cause of the symptoms you mentioned is an overloaded diesel engine. The number one cause of an overloaded diesel on an Amel with an AutoProp is growth on the blades...even a small amount of growth. Growth causes the blades to pitch too much, biting too much water and overloads the engine.

 

Also, from my experience, people like Nigel Calder who make imperative and absolute statements like "...should never smoke and is indicative of a serious issue," are only correct the majority of the time and usually provide good advice for gamblers. I hate gambling.

 

So, I will ask you: Is the propellor clean?

 

The other thing that I sometimes hear from experts is that the H6 AutoProp is too large or too small. Evidence that it is correct for a SM and a 54 is that over 600 Amels are operating with them...I believe that fact is much more credible than anyone's opinion.

 

Lastly, some of the Volvo D-3 110 have issues that sometimes even experts cannot figure out. If you own a good one, you will love it...if you own a bad one, good luck. That said, the chances of that Volvo being a good one are very high because based on the hull number, that engine was probably made in Volvo's 4th-5th year of production of the D3 110.

 

My advice, thoroughly clean that propellor and try things again.

 

Best,

 

Bill

X-BeBe

 

On Thu, Mar 30, 2017 at 10:43 AM, 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

 

Porter,

 

I’m not sure why you would trust the opinion of a group member rather than your own instincts and opinions of the expert mechanics? You seem convinced the boat has an issue and I seriously doubt even the most knowledgeable members of this group can guide or are willing to guide you down a particular path.  

 

If this is the boat for you, then reach a deal with the owner. Or, cut your losses and look for another boat.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currenlty cruising – Turks and Caicos Islands

www.creampuff.us

 

 

 

 

 

W. Porter McRoberts MD FAAPMR ABPMR ABA/Pain

Director Interventional Spine, Pain Medicine, Neurosurgery

Holy Cross Hospital

Fort Lauderdale, FL 

Assistant Professor, University of Miami School of Medicine