Date   
Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Autoprop Plastic Cap and Zinc Anode Sources

william_maffei@...
 

FYI: Here is the link to the rudder zincs I use. I stepped up the size and they are great. 
R-5 discs fit perfectly, just need to bore the center a tad. 

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Autoprop Plastic Cap and Zinc Anode Sources

william_maffei@...
 

If I remember correctly, Amel is the only source for the plastic H6 prop caps. I am not even sure they are available anymore. I buy the zinc (H6) anodes from boatzincs.com http://www.boatzincs.com/autoprop_specs_H6.html
They work great but they really never need replacing if your Amel is wired properly. I have never in 2 years had to change this anode. The only anodes that do anything are on the rudder. 

Cheers,

Bill Maffei
SM #195
It's all Good 

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: I dont think it is the same engine as mine Isolated ground on a Yanmar

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

James,

I know SM #418. She was previously "Lady H." When I looked at Lady H, she had all sorts of "mystery wiring" and in a lot of places. I have to hand it to you if you cleaned all of that up and got it back to being an Amel.

Congratulations.

Best,

Bill

On Sat, Apr 1, 2017 at 2:31 PM, jamessterling88@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Thanks Bill.

I have hull #418.  I've done an extensive refit and I'm currently in Corpus Christi.

James


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Sea water chest

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Ron,

That is because you need to "login with your Yahoo user name and password to be able to view photos and upload or download files and photos.

I CC'd you of this email and I attached the photo that I downloaded for you...you should login on the website because there are lots of things available there. The dimensions for this tool are for a Super Maramu...maybe you can use this idea and make one to fit your Meltem.

Best,

Bill
X-BeBe

On Sat, Apr 1, 2017 at 2:05 PM, Ron Hynes riffhynes@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
 

Thanks for your help, much appreciated. I recently joined this group and while I can read conversations, for some reason I am precluded from viewing photos.

Ron Hynes

On Apr 1, 2017, at 2:35 PM, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...om> wrote:

 

Yes, there is a photo for the tool with dimensions that I uploaded. 

Search for "sea chest tools" in Photos on the Amel Yacht Owner's Yahoo website. 

You will find the tool I made that cleans from the top of the sea chest. I used this tool at least 8 times while circumnavigating. A few times for plastic removal, once for jellyfish and the rest for growth. Don't leave port without something to clean this!

The inside of that conduit from the outside of the hull to the ball valve is usually missed during the application of antifouling and, it is perfect for barnacle or mussel growth with the huge flow of water. 


CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Galveston Island
Sent using Google Fi
+1(832) 380-4970

   

On Apr 1, 2017 05:53, "Ron Hynes riffhynes@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...om> wrote:
 

I have a '76 Meltem and have recently experienced a blockage below the sea cock feeding the chest. A diver was able to clear about 20cm from the hull surface to where the hose makes a 90 degree bend but was unable to clear further. Any ideas as to clear this last area would be appreciated.

Riff on Swan Song, Amel #29



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Autoprop Plastic Cap and Zinc Anode Sources

eric freedman
 

AB marine is the other Brutons distributor.

I find them to be great. They even rented me the special tools to rebuild the prop.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

AB Marine
747 Aquidneck Ave
Middletown
RI 02842
USA

Email:- sales@...

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, April 01, 2017 4:59 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Autoprop Plastic Cap and Zinc Anode Sources

 

 

Hello All,

Here are sources for both the plastic cap that Amel installed in leiu of the Autoprop zinc, and for the actual zinc-zinc for the Autoprop,including the H-6 that many SM's and 54's have.

They call the plastic cap a "plastic zinc" even though it is all plastic.
The source is King Propulsion in Virgina Beach, Virginia, USA tel. +1 757 962 9219
kingpropulsion dot com
roderick.sampson"at"kingpropulsion"dot"com
About $36.00 US plus shipping for the H-6 Autoprop plastic cap with fasteners.

King Propulsion is a USA manufacturer's representative for Bruntons Autoprop so they also have the bearing rebuild kits. I have to commend Rod there because he also sells the O.E.M. zinc-zincs, but said he couldn't come anywhere near to matching the below source on pricing, and referred me to them.

For the "zinc-zinc" the source is
boatzincs"dot"com
sales"at"boatzincs"dot"com
+1 978 842 9978
$19.53 US for the H-6 Autoprop zinc with fasteners.
They bill themselves as the zinc anode online superstore and have just about every kind of zinc imaginable, at good prices.

Wishing smooth sailing and endless broad reaches to all,

Jim
SM384 Sirena Azul
Seattle

 

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: I dont think it is the same engine as mine Isolated ground on a Yanmar

eric freedman
 

James if you can email me some photos of both sides of the engine and its wiring, possibly I can help you.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

Kimberlite at optonline  dot net

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, April 01, 2017 3:31 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: I dont think it is the same engine as mine Isolated ground on a Yanmar

 

 

Thanks Bill.

I have hull #418.  I've done an extensive refit and I'm currently in Corpus Christi.

James

Autoprop Plastic Cap and Zinc Anode Sources

Jim Anderson
 

Hello All,

Here are sources for both the plastic cap that Amel installed in leiu of the Autoprop zinc, and for the actual zinc-zinc for the Autoprop,including the H-6 that many SM's and 54's have.

They call the plastic cap a "plastic zinc" even though it is all plastic.
The source is King Propulsion in Virgina Beach, Virginia, USA tel. +1 757 962 9219
kingpropulsion dot com
roderick.sampson"at"kingpropulsion"dot"com
About $36.00 US plus shipping for the H-6 Autoprop plastic cap with fasteners.

King Propulsion is a USA manufacturer's representative for Bruntons Autoprop so they also have the bearing rebuild kits. I have to commend Rod there because he also sells the O.E.M. zinc-zincs, but said he couldn't come anywhere near to matching the below source on pricing, and referred me to them.

For the "zinc-zinc" the source is
boatzincs"dot"com
sales"at"boatzincs"dot"com
+1 978 842 9978
$19.53 US for the H-6 Autoprop zinc with fasteners.
They bill themselves as the zinc anode online superstore and have just about every kind of zinc imaginable, at good prices.

Wishing smooth sailing and endless broad reaches to all,

Jim
SM384 Sirena Azul
Seattle


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Negative ground slave solenoid

eric freedman
 

Look in the photo section I posted a photo of the box of the solenoid.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, April 01, 2017 2:33 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Negative ground slave solenoid

 

 

Thanks, I'd like to see a part number on the solenoid.  Mine is unreadable.

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] I dont think it is the same engine as mine Isolated ground on a Yanmar

eric freedman
 

Bill,

I understand what the new wiring kit does, however it was made for a different engine.

I have ha 3 4JH yanmar engines and they were all identical except one did not have a turbo, one did , and my current one has the turbo and intercooler.

The theory is the same and the schematic diagram might look the same but it really depends on how the actual engine was wired.  

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, April 01, 2017 12:55 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] I dont think it is the same engine as mine Isolated ground on a Yanmar

 

 

Eric,

 

Every engine will be somewhat different, but the "Amel isolation wiring theory" should be the same. The information I searched and found on the Yahoo Amel Group website was originally posted by Kent and, I believe, that it refers to a newer Yanmar than the Yanmar in Kimberlite. I do not know believe that we know the hull # of the boat that this thread is referring to.

 

Best,

 

Bill

 

 

 

On Sat, Apr 1, 2017 at 9:36 AM, 'sailormon' kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

The photo that Bill posted shows a different wiring setup than what was on my Yanmar.

 

If you will note in Bills photo all of the ground wires run to the valeo solenoid and are not connected to the big black wire that I mentioned.  Also this engine is not mounted in a boat.

Bill, are you sure this is a 4jh3hte engine and not a 4jh4hte or the newer rail engine that I believe Kristie used?

 

These photos seem to show the valeo solenoid mounted under the starter motor on the outboard side of the engine. Mine is mounted inboard near the starter relay  on the forward side of the engine. It also shows 3 diodes and my engine had only 2. It also looks like the oil filter is in a different place than is on my engine.

This engine does not look like mine. It also appears that the injector pump is further aft than on my engine. The wiring is completely different and according to Amel there is no wiring diagram for my engine.

 

If I remember this wiring diagram and the isolation kit were sent to someone who was installing a new engine in their boat using a stock Yanmar and the wiring kit was sent to make the engine isolated.

Note the transmission oil cooler is mounted under the turbo..

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, April 01, 2017 9:54 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Negative ground slave solenoid

 

 

James,

 

The answer to your question requires more words than I have this morning, but I can answer why...

 

Amel did this to eliminate galvanic corrosion. Amel has done more than any other boat manufacturer to eliminate galvanic corrosion. This is the reason that your mechanic has never seen it. 

 

There is a wiring diagram on the Group website at:

 

Believe!

 

Where are you, what model Amel, and hull#?


CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

X-BeBe #387
Galveston Island
Sent using Google Fi
+1(832) 380-4970

   

 

On Apr 1, 2017 08:25, "jamessterling88@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

What was Amel’s thinking on the need for an isolated ground for the generator and 185 amp alternator?  It seems to confound local Yanmar techs as there are no Yanmar wiring diagrams available to them.  Their initial reaction is to want to take the isolated ground out somehow.

 

This problem started as a non-functioning tachometer.  The flywheel sensor ground is indeed bad, pointing as you say up the line on the wiring loom or somewhere else on the engine.  A jumper wire placed on the tach sensor ground connector to another engine ground point brought it to life.  All was well until the genset was started on passage.  Genset started, isolated ground started clicking rapidly, engine failed to start, isolated ground was open, top push button engaged, engine would start, but tach indicated interference. 

 

In my initial thought on the initial tach issue I was thinking a bad ignition switch, but since finding that the tach sensor ground wouldn’t work, it points to somewhere in the loom or on an engine connection in my mind.  Opening the wiring loom on the engine would be a big job for me, if it were in the loom from the engine to the helm, that would be another matter entirely.  Jumping the ground to get the tach working was too easy.  Obviously, there is a larger problem.  What do you think the likelihood of the ground short being in the engine wiring loom?  Could it be a bad sensor or relay in the same circuit?  Does a wiring diagram of this motor with the isolated ground shown exist?

 

Re: I dont think it is the same engine as mine Isolated ground on a Yanmar

James Sterling
 

Thanks Bill.

I have hull #418.  I've done an extensive refit and I'm currently in Corpus Christi.

James

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Sea water chest

Ron Hynes <riffhynes@...>
 

Thanks for your help, much appreciated. I recently joined this group and while I can read conversations, for some reason I am precluded from viewing photos.

Ron Hynes
954.319.0944

On Apr 1, 2017, at 2:35 PM, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Yes, there is a photo for the tool with dimensions that I uploaded. 

Search for "sea chest tools" in Photos on the Amel Yacht Owner's Yahoo website. 

You will find the tool I made that cleans from the top of the sea chest. I used this tool at least 8 times while circumnavigating. A few times for plastic removal, once for jellyfish and the rest for growth. Don't leave port without something to clean this!

The inside of that conduit from the outside of the hull to the ball valve is usually missed during the application of antifouling and, it is perfect for barnacle or mussel growth with the huge flow of water. 


CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Galveston Island
Sent using Google Fi
+1(832) 380-4970

   

On Apr 1, 2017 05:53, "Ron Hynes riffhynes@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

I have a '76 Meltem and have recently experienced a blockage below the sea cock feeding the chest. A diver was able to clear about 20cm from the hull surface to where the hose makes a 90 degree bend but was unable to clear further. Any ideas as to clear this last area would be appreciated.

Riff on Swan Song, Amel #29


Re: Negative ground slave solenoid

James Sterling
 

Thanks, I'd like to see a part number on the solenoid.  Mine is unreadable.

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Negative ground slave solenoid

Mark Pitt
 

Hi James,

  I bought the Valeo solenoid on French amazon (amazon.fr) a couple of year ago and had it delivered to the US.  I do not recall the price but it was not too bad.

  Mark Pitt,  Sabbatical III, ASM #419, Carloforte, Italy


On 4/1/2017 12:09 AM, 'sailormon' kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] wrote:

Hi James,

I believe you are referring to the Valeo Solenoid with the rubber push button on top.

You can only get that one from Amel. However you can go to any starter motor / alternator shop and purchase an isolated ground solenoid. The only difference is you will not have the push button.

 

With respect to your electrical problem. The tachometer wire is a separate wire that runs from the sensor on the flywheel directly to the tachometer. The solenoid is not in any way connected to it. I believe you have a short in the black ground wire which I described in a post yesterday, shorting the tach wire as well. I believe you will have to open up the harness to find the problem. Fortunately the tach wire is easy to find. Start at the sensor at the flywheel and trace it to the connectors at the side of the engine near the foam of the fuel tank and see if it is shorted to some other wire.

 

I have some other ideas but this is the simplest one.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Friday, March 31, 2017 4:02 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Negative ground slave solenoid

 

 

Super Maramu 2000 #418
Longbow



---In amelyachtowners@..., <kimberlite@...> wrote :

James,

What boat do you have?

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Friday, March 31, 2017 12:52 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Negative ground slave solenoid

 

 

My slave solenoid has started clicking when the generator is running.  It also interferes with the Engine tach when the engine (4jh3-HTE) and genset are running together.  Has anyone had a similar problem?  I'd like to replace the solenoid anyway.  Is there an US replacement or is this part still available from Amel?

Thanks in advance.

James


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] I dont think it is the same engine as mine Isolated ground on a Yanmar

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Eric,

Every engine will be somewhat different, but the "Amel isolation wiring theory" should be the same. The information I searched and found on the Yahoo Amel Group website was originally posted by Kent and, I believe, that it refers to a newer Yanmar than the Yanmar in Kimberlite. I do not know believe that we know the hull # of the boat that this thread is referring to.

Best,

Bill



On Sat, Apr 1, 2017 at 9:36 AM, 'sailormon' kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

The photo that Bill posted shows a different wiring setup than what was on my Yanmar.

 

If you will note in Bills photo all of the ground wires run to the valeo solenoid and are not connected to the big black wire that I mentioned.  Also this engine is not mounted in a boat.

Bill, are you sure this is a 4jh3hte engine and not a 4jh4hte or the newer rail engine that I believe Kristie used?

 

These photos seem to show the valeo solenoid mounted under the starter motor on the outboard side of the engine. Mine is mounted inboard near the starter relay  on the forward side of the engine. It also shows 3 diodes and my engine had only 2. It also looks like the oil filter is in a different place than is on my engine.

This engine does not look like mine. It also appears that the injector pump is further aft than on my engine. The wiring is completely different and according to Amel there is no wiring diagram for my engine.

 

If I remember this wiring diagram and the isolation kit were sent to someone who was installing a new engine in their boat using a stock Yanmar and the wiring kit was sent to make the engine isolated.

Note the transmission oil cooler is mounted under the turbo..

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com [mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Saturday, April 01, 2017 9:54 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Negative ground slave solenoid

 

 

James,

 

The answer to your question requires more words than I have this morning, but I can answer why...

 

Amel did this to eliminate galvanic corrosion. Amel has done more than any other boat manufacturer to eliminate galvanic corrosion. This is the reason that your mechanic has never seen it. 

 

There is a wiring diagram on the Group website at:

 

Believe!

 

Where are you, what model Amel, and hull#?


CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

X-BeBe #387
Galveston Island
Sent using Google Fi
+1(832) 380-4970

   

 

On Apr 1, 2017 08:25, "jamessterling88@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

What was Amel’s thinking on the need for an isolated ground for the generator and 185 amp alternator?  It seems to confound local Yanmar techs as there are no Yanmar wiring diagrams available to them.  Their initial reaction is to want to take the isolated ground out somehow.

 

This problem started as a non-functioning tachometer.  The flywheel sensor ground is indeed bad, pointing as you say up the line on the wiring loom or somewhere else on the engine.  A jumper wire placed on the tach sensor ground connector to another engine ground point brought it to life.  All was well until the genset was started on passage.  Genset started, isolated ground started clicking rapidly, engine failed to start, isolated ground was open, top push button engaged, engine would start, but tach indicated interference. 

 

In my initial thought on the initial tach issue I was thinking a bad ignition switch, but since finding that the tach sensor ground wouldn’t work, it points to somewhere in the loom or on an engine connection in my mind.  Opening the wiring loom on the engine would be a big job for me, if it were in the loom from the engine to the helm, that would be another matter entirely.  Jumping the ground to get the tach working was too easy.  Obviously, there is a larger problem.  What do you think the likelihood of the ground short being in the engine wiring loom?  Could it be a bad sensor or relay in the same circuit?  Does a wiring diagram of this motor with the isolated ground shown exist?


I dont think it is the same engine as mine Isolated ground on a Yanmar

eric freedman
 

The photo that Bill posted shows a different wiring setup than what was on my Yanmar.

 

If you will note in Bills photo all of the ground wires run to the valeo solenoid and are not connected to the big black wire that I mentioned.  Also this engine is not mounted in a boat.

Bill, are you sure this is a 4jh3hte engine and not a 4jh4hte or the newer rail engine that I believe Kristie used?

 

These photos seem to show the valeo solenoid mounted under the starter motor on the outboard side of the engine. Mine is mounted inboard near the starter relay  on the forward side of the engine. It also shows 3 diodes and my engine had only 2. It also looks like the oil filter is in a different place than is on my engine.

This engine does not look like mine. It also appears that the injector pump is further aft than on my engine. The wiring is completely different and according to Amel there is no wiring diagram for my engine.

 

If I remember this wiring diagram and the isolation kit were sent to someone who was installing a new engine in their boat using a stock Yanmar and the wiring kit was sent to make the engine isolated.

Note the transmission oil cooler is mounted under the turbo..

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, April 01, 2017 9:54 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Negative ground slave solenoid

 

 

James,

 

The answer to your question requires more words than I have this morning, but I can answer why...

 

Amel did this to eliminate galvanic corrosion. Amel has done more than any other boat manufacturer to eliminate galvanic corrosion. This is the reason that your mechanic has never seen it. 

 

There is a wiring diagram on the Group website at:

 

Believe!

 

Where are you, what model Amel, and hull#?


CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus

X-BeBe #387
Galveston Island
Sent using Google Fi
+1(832) 380-4970

   

 

On Apr 1, 2017 08:25, "jamessterling88@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

What was Amel’s thinking on the need for an isolated ground for the generator and 185 amp alternator?  It seems to confound local Yanmar techs as there are no Yanmar wiring diagrams available to them.  Their initial reaction is to want to take the isolated ground out somehow.

 

This problem started as a non-functioning tachometer.  The flywheel sensor ground is indeed bad, pointing as you say up the line on the wiring loom or somewhere else on the engine.  A jumper wire placed on the tach sensor ground connector to another engine ground point brought it to life.  All was well until the genset was started on passage.  Genset started, isolated ground started clicking rapidly, engine failed to start, isolated ground was open, top push button engaged, engine would start, but tach indicated interference. 

 

In my initial thought on the initial tach issue I was thinking a bad ignition switch, but since finding that the tach sensor ground wouldn’t work, it points to somewhere in the loom or on an engine connection in my mind.  Opening the wiring loom on the engine would be a big job for me, if it were in the loom from the engine to the helm, that would be another matter entirely.  Jumping the ground to get the tach working was too easy.  Obviously, there is a larger problem.  What do you think the likelihood of the ground short being in the engine wiring loom?  Could it be a bad sensor or relay in the same circuit?  Does a wiring diagram of this motor with the isolated ground shown exist?

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling

Patrick McAneny
 

Eric , I did not want to suggest flipping the plate without looking at it first , but you may be right , because I remember being able to flip the plate on my previous boat.
Pat SM#123


-----Original Message-----
From: 'sailormon' kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners]
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Sat, Apr 1, 2017 10:27 am
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling

 
Pat,
I believe you can flip the plate over and use the other side.
If you have an opportunity get some thumb screws. They make taking the plate off much easier.
Fair Winds
Eric
Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376
 
 
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, April 01, 2017 10:13 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling
 
 
Eric , No , it may well be the original pump , and no I don't remember sanding the cover , but I will . It may be a good idea to replace the cover if its available . As I just posted back to Bill on a previous boat a had wear on the back plate as well as the cover. On that pump it had a very thin plate in the back of the pump that could be replaced , a wear plate. I don't know if this pump is the same. It fit so precisely it appeared to be the pump housing itself. Thanks for the suggestion.
Pat SM#123

-----Original Message-----
From: 'sailormon' kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Sat, Apr 1, 2017 9:45 am
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling
 
Sometimes the pump housing becomes out of round.
Did you try changing the entire pump?
Also did you sand the plate that closes the pump smooth?
Fair Winds
Eric
Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376
 
 
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, April 01, 2017 8:56 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling
 
 
Bill , The impeller looks good even though it is a couple of years old and a couple of hundred hours on it . I will replace it per your suggestion , that it can look good , yet not provide adequate flow volume.
Thanks,
Pat SM#123
-----Original Message-----
From: 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Fri, Mar 31, 2017 5:46 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling
 
Pat,
 
Yes, check everything from the sea chest to the impeller on the engine.
 
 
Bill
 
On Fri, Mar 31, 2017 at 3:57 PM, Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 
Mark, I keep my heat exchanger clean , its never been clogged more than one or two passages . I think I need to work my way from the strainer thru the pump.
Thanks , Pat
-----Original Message-----
From: 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Fri, Mar 31, 2017 9:43 am
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling
 
Pat,
 
Ditto on Bob’s comment. I would suggest starting at the sea-chest and working your way down the salt water flow. The tranny cooler is easy to service (do not over tighten when putting it back on or reconnecting the hoses). Also check the 90 degree elbows at the raw water pump. On the Yanmar, the raw water pump has a bar across it at the intake side. Not sue if Volvo has the same. I found a small clam lodged in there once. It took me forever to find it. I tore apart the entire cooling system and missed it the first time.
 
Most temperature issues are because the heat exchanger is not clean enough followed by after cooler flow issues for turbo charged engines. Taking the heat exchanger to a radiator shop is better than messing with the acid required aboard the boat.
 
Also check the thermostat on the coolant side. You can place it on a pan of water on the stove with a thermometer in it heat the water. Note the temperature when the thermostat operates. Check to see if it is in spec.
 
My guess is if you closely inspect the seawater flow passage from start to finish, you will find something partially blocked.
 
Also, check the manual for operating temperatures. Engines will increase in temperature as RPM or load increases. However, there is a cap on what it should warm to. The range should be in the owners manual. Our Yanmar runs at 180F under moderate load and 190F at full load.
 
Hope this helps. Good luck.
 
 
With best regards,
 
Mark
 
Skipper
Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275
Currenlty cruising – Turks and Caicos Islands
 
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Friday, March 31, 2017 4:49 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling
 
 
Pat, the transmission oil cooler should be checked every service as yes it does get blocked, mine blocked first time after 300hours in southern Australia due to the type of spaghetti thin sea grass in Port Phillip bay and the symptoms were identical to what you describe, temp goes up with revs, less water out exhaust. Easy to spot with the engine room hatch open look at the hose coming out of the transmission cooler, rev to 2500 (out of gear if your in dock)🙄 and the hose between the seawater pump and the trasmission cooler flattens as the pump creates a vacuum in this pipe as it's sucking and not getting flow.
 
The local Volvo dealer cleans the oil cooler every service, but he says this is good because the smaller tubes in the transmission cooler catch the weed and protect the heat exchanger from blocking up. It's a a really big job to clean weed out of the heat exchanger.
 
Bob Grey
Renaissance 3
On Friday, March 31, 2017, 08:38, sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 
I always check my exhaust for water flow after starting the engine , a Volvo TMD 22A. It is difficult to determine as the exhaust pipe is partially under water , I wish it had been installed a couple of inches higher. I have never thought I had as much water expelled as I would expect. I have seen many boats which seemed to have a more robust exhaust of water. My temperature seems to rise when the rpms go above 2500 . The heat exchanger is always kept clean . I have never taken off the raw water manifold or the transmission cooler, for those that have , have you found any blockage (growth etc.)that could inhibit the flow of water .
Thanks,
Pat SM#123
 

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling

eric freedman
 

Pat,

I believe you can flip the plate over and use the other side.

If you have an opportunity get some thumb screws. They make taking the plate off much easier.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, April 01, 2017 10:13 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling

 

 

Eric , No , it may well be the original pump , and no I don't remember sanding the cover , but I will . It may be a good idea to replace the cover if its available . As I just posted back to Bill on a previous boat a had wear on the back plate as well as the cover. On that pump it had a very thin plate in the back of the pump that could be replaced , a wear plate. I don't know if this pump is the same. It fit so precisely it appeared to be the pump housing itself. Thanks for the suggestion.

Pat SM#123

-----Original Message-----
From: 'sailormon' kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Sat, Apr 1, 2017 9:45 am
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling

 

Sometimes the pump housing becomes out of round.

Did you try changing the entire pump?

Also did you sand the plate that closes the pump smooth?

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, April 01, 2017 8:56 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling

 

 

Bill , The impeller looks good even though it is a couple of years old and a couple of hundred hours on it . I will replace it per your suggestion , that it can look good , yet not provide adequate flow volume.

Thanks,

Pat SM#123

-----Original Message-----
From: 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Fri, Mar 31, 2017 5:46 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling

 

 

On Fri, Mar 31, 2017 at 3:57 PM, Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Mark, I keep my heat exchanger clean , its never been clogged more than one or two passages . I think I need to work my way from the strainer thru the pump.

Thanks , Pat

-----Original Message-----
From: 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Fri, Mar 31, 2017 9:43 am
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling

 

Pat,

 

Ditto on Bob’s comment. I would suggest starting at the sea-chest and working your way down the salt water flow. The tranny cooler is easy to service (do not over tighten when putting it back on or reconnecting the hoses). Also check the 90 degree elbows at the raw water pump. On the Yanmar, the raw water pump has a bar across it at the intake side. Not sue if Volvo has the same. I found a small clam lodged in there once. It took me forever to find it. I tore apart the entire cooling system and missed it the first time.

 

Most temperature issues are because the heat exchanger is not clean enough followed by after cooler flow issues for turbo charged engines. Taking the heat exchanger to a radiator shop is better than messing with the acid required aboard the boat.

 

Also check the thermostat on the coolant side. You can place it on a pan of water on the stove with a thermometer in it heat the water. Note the temperature when the thermostat operates. Check to see if it is in spec.

 

My guess is if you closely inspect the seawater flow passage from start to finish, you will find something partially blocked.

 

Also, check the manual for operating temperatures. Engines will increase in temperature as RPM or load increases. However, there is a cap on what it should warm to. The range should be in the owners manual. Our Yanmar runs at 180F under moderate load and 190F at full load.

 

Hope this helps. Good luck.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currenlty cruising – Turks and Caicos Islands

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Friday, March 31, 2017 4:49 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling

 

 

Pat, the transmission oil cooler should be checked every service as yes it does get blocked, mine blocked first time after 300hours in southern Australia due to the type of spaghetti thin sea grass in Port Phillip bay and the symptoms were identical to what you describe, temp goes up with revs, less water out exhaust. Easy to spot with the engine room hatch open look at the hose coming out of the transmission cooler, rev to 2500 (out of gear if your in dock)🙄 and the hose between the seawater pump and the trasmission cooler flattens as the pump creates a vacuum in this pipe as it's sucking and not getting flow.

 

The local Volvo dealer cleans the oil cooler every service, but he says this is good because the smaller tubes in the transmission cooler catch the weed and protect the heat exchanger from blocking up. It's a a really big job to clean weed out of the heat exchanger.

 

Bob Grey

Renaissance 3

On Friday, March 31, 2017, 08:38, sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

I always check my exhaust for water flow after starting the engine , a Volvo TMD 22A. It is difficult to determine as the exhaust pipe is partially under water , I wish it had been installed a couple of inches higher. I have never thought I had as much water expelled as I would expect. I have seen many boats which seemed to have a more robust exhaust of water. My temperature seems to rise when the rpms go above 2500 . The heat exchanger is always kept clean . I have never taken off the raw water manifold or the transmission cooler, for those that have , have you found any blockage (growth etc.)that could inhibit the flow of water .

Thanks,

Pat SM#123

 

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling

Patrick McAneny
 

Eric , No , it may well be the original pump , and no I don't remember sanding the cover , but I will . It may be a good idea to replace the cover if its available . As I just posted back to Bill on a previous boat a had wear on the back plate as well as the cover. On that pump it had a very thin plate in the back of the pump that could be replaced , a wear plate. I don't know if this pump is the same. It fit so precisely it appeared to be the pump housing itself. Thanks for the suggestion.
Pat SM#123


-----Original Message-----
From: 'sailormon' kimberlite@... [amelyachtowners]
To: amelyachtowners
Sent: Sat, Apr 1, 2017 9:45 am
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling

 
Sometimes the pump housing becomes out of round.
Did you try changing the entire pump?
Also did you sand the plate that closes the pump smooth?
Fair Winds
Eric
Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376
 
 
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, April 01, 2017 8:56 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling
 
 
Bill , The impeller looks good even though it is a couple of years old and a couple of hundred hours on it . I will replace it per your suggestion , that it can look good , yet not provide adequate flow volume.
Thanks,
Pat SM#123

-----Original Message-----
From: 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Fri, Mar 31, 2017 5:46 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling
 
Pat,
 
Yes, check everything from the sea chest to the impeller on the engine.
 
 
Bill
 
On Fri, Mar 31, 2017 at 3:57 PM, Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 
Mark, I keep my heat exchanger clean , its never been clogged more than one or two passages . I think I need to work my way from the strainer thru the pump.
Thanks , Pat

-----Original Message-----
From: 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Fri, Mar 31, 2017 9:43 am
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling
 
Pat,
 
Ditto on Bob’s comment. I would suggest starting at the sea-chest and working your way down the salt water flow. The tranny cooler is easy to service (do not over tighten when putting it back on or reconnecting the hoses). Also check the 90 degree elbows at the raw water pump. On the Yanmar, the raw water pump has a bar across it at the intake side. Not sue if Volvo has the same. I found a small clam lodged in there once. It took me forever to find it. I tore apart the entire cooling system and missed it the first time.
 
Most temperature issues are because the heat exchanger is not clean enough followed by after cooler flow issues for turbo charged engines. Taking the heat exchanger to a radiator shop is better than messing with the acid required aboard the boat.
 
Also check the thermostat on the coolant side. You can place it on a pan of water on the stove with a thermometer in it heat the water. Note the temperature when the thermostat operates. Check to see if it is in spec.
 
My guess is if you closely inspect the seawater flow passage from start to finish, you will find something partially blocked.
 
Also, check the manual for operating temperatures. Engines will increase in temperature as RPM or load increases. However, there is a cap on what it should warm to. The range should be in the owners manual. Our Yanmar runs at 180F under moderate load and 190F at full load.
 
Hope this helps. Good luck.
 
 
With best regards,
 
Mark
 
Skipper
Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275
Currenlty cruising – Turks and Caicos Islands
 
From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Friday, March 31, 2017 4:49 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling
 
 
Pat, the transmission oil cooler should be checked every service as yes it does get blocked, mine blocked first time after 300hours in southern Australia due to the type of spaghetti thin sea grass in Port Phillip bay and the symptoms were identical to what you describe, temp goes up with revs, less water out exhaust. Easy to spot with the engine room hatch open look at the hose coming out of the transmission cooler, rev to 2500 (out of gear if your in dock)🙄 and the hose between the seawater pump and the trasmission cooler flattens as the pump creates a vacuum in this pipe as it's sucking and not getting flow.
 
The local Volvo dealer cleans the oil cooler every service, but he says this is good because the smaller tubes in the transmission cooler catch the weed and protect the heat exchanger from blocking up. It's a a really big job to clean weed out of the heat exchanger.
 
Bob Grey
Renaissance 3
On Friday, March 31, 2017, 08:38, sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 
I always check my exhaust for water flow after starting the engine , a Volvo TMD 22A. It is difficult to determine as the exhaust pipe is partially under water , I wish it had been installed a couple of inches higher. I have never thought I had as much water expelled as I would expect. I have seen many boats which seemed to have a more robust exhaust of water. My temperature seems to rise when the rpms go above 2500 . The heat exchanger is always kept clean . I have never taken off the raw water manifold or the transmission cooler, for those that have , have you found any blockage (growth etc.)that could inhibit the flow of water .
Thanks,
Pat SM#123
 

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling

Patrick McAneny
 

Bill , I agree , if all the blades are intact one assumes all is good. I had a problem on a previous boat where the plate on the pump behind the impeller wore as well as the cover plate diminishing efficiency .
Pat SM#123


-----Original Message-----
From: 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners]
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Sat, Apr 1, 2017 9:44 am
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling

 
Pat,

When you change the impeller, closely compare the old one to the new one. I believe that you will probably find the same thing I have with wear at the ends of the blades. Once I found what appeared to be a 45° angle cut at the end of used impeller blades, with all of the thickened ends of the blades worn off. It was wear. 

I am aware of the rubber separating from the metal hub with low hour impellers which are left in place for over a year. This causes the rubber to slip on the hub, reducing water flow. 

I think most of us consider only missing blades as an indication of failure. 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Galveston Island
Sent using Google Fi
+1(832) 380-4970

   

On Apr 1, 2017 07:56, "Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 
Bill , The impeller looks good even though it is a couple of years old and a couple of hundred hours on it . I will replace it per your suggestion , that it can look good , yet not provide adequate flow volume.
Thanks,
Pat SM#123


-----Original Message-----
From: 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Fri, Mar 31, 2017 5:46 pm
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling

 

On Fri, Mar 31, 2017 at 3:57 PM, Patrick Mcaneny sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
 
Mark, I keep my heat exchanger clean , its never been clogged more than one or two passages . I think I need to work my way from the strainer thru the pump.
Thanks , Pat


-----Original Message-----
From: 'Mark Erdos' mcerdos@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...om>
To: amelyachtowners <amelyachtowners@...om>
Sent: Fri, Mar 31, 2017 9:43 am
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling

 
Pat,
 
Ditto on Bob’s comment. I would suggest starting at the sea-chest and working your way down the salt water flow. The tranny cooler is easy to service (do not over tighten when putting it back on or reconnecting the hoses). Also check the 90 degree elbows at the raw water pump. On the Yanmar, the raw water pump has a bar across it at the intake side. Not sue if Volvo has the same. I found a small clam lodged in there once. It took me forever to find it. I tore apart the entire cooling system and missed it the first time.
 
Most temperature issues are because the heat exchanger is not clean enough followed by after cooler flow issues for turbo charged engines. Taking the heat exchanger to a radiator shop is better than messing with the acid required aboard the boat.
 
Also check the thermostat on the coolant side. You can place it on a pan of water on the stove with a thermometer in it heat the water. Note the temperature when the thermostat operates. Check to see if it is in spec.
 
My guess is if you closely inspect the seawater flow passage from start to finish, you will find something partially blocked.
 
Also, check the manual for operating temperatures. Engines will increase in temperature as RPM or load increases. However, there is a cap on what it should warm to. The range should be in the owners manual. Our Yanmar runs at 180F under moderate load and 190F at full load.
 
Hope this helps. Good luck.
 
 
With best regards,
 
Mark
 
Skipper
Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275
Currenlty cruising – Turks and Caicos Islands
 
From: amelyachtowners@...m [mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Friday, March 31, 2017 4:49 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...m
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Raw water cooling
 
 
Pat, the transmission oil cooler should be checked every service as yes it does get blocked, mine blocked first time after 300hours in southern Australia due to the type of spaghetti thin sea grass in Port Phillip bay and the symptoms were identical to what you describe, temp goes up with revs, less water out exhaust. Easy to spot with the engine room hatch open look at the hose coming out of the transmission cooler, rev to 2500 (out of gear if your in dock)🙄 and the hose between the seawater pump and the trasmission cooler flattens as the pump creates a vacuum in this pipe as it's sucking and not getting flow.
 
The local Volvo dealer cleans the oil cooler every service, but he says this is good because the smaller tubes in the transmission cooler catch the weed and protect the heat exchanger from blocking up. It's a a really big job to clean weed out of the heat exchanger.
 
Bob Grey
Renaissance 3
On Friday, March 31, 2017, 08:38, sailw32@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...om> wrote:
 
I always check my exhaust for water flow after starting the engine , a Volvo TMD 22A. It is difficult to determine as the exhaust pipe is partially under water , I wish it had been installed a couple of inches higher. I have never thought I had as much water expelled as I would expect. I have seen many boats which seemed to have a more robust exhaust of water. My temperature seems to rise when the rpms go above 2500 . The heat exchanger is always kept clean . I have never taken off the raw water manifold or the transmission cooler, for those that have , have you found any blockage (growth etc.)that could inhibit the flow of water .
Thanks,
Pat SM#123


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Negative ground slave solenoid

eric freedman
 

James,

there are many discussions on this site about the benefits of an isolated ground.

Did you read my note to you about the black wire that all of the negative items on the engine are connected to?

Please review what I wrote and then if you have any questions please ask me. I became intimate with the engine wiring after spending 5 days hanging over and around the wiring. I believe you have a bad connection shorting the black wire to the block or something else. The problem is almost 100% in the wiring of the engine and not in the harness to the control panel.

 

Amel does not have a wiring diagram of what they did to the engine.

However do not remove the isolated ground on either engine, you will open up a big can of worms.

If you are electrically competent just go after the black wire that starts at the Valeo solenoid and check every connection. You might have to use a set of channel lock pliers to remove the wiring from under the turbo.

I will post other photos of the wiring to the photo section in a few minutes.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...]
Sent: Saturday, April 01, 2017 9:26 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Negative ground slave solenoid

 

 

What was Amel’s thinking on the need for an isolated ground for the generator and 185 amp alternator?  It seems to confound local Yanmar techs as there are no Yanmar wiring diagrams available to them.  Their initial reaction is to want to take the isolated ground out somehow.

 

This problem started as a non-functioning tachometer.  The flywheel sensor ground is indeed bad, pointing as you say up the line on the wiring loom or somewhere else on the engine.  A jumper wire placed on the tach sensor ground connector to another engine ground point brought it to life.  All was well until the genset was started on passage.  Genset started, isolated ground started clicking rapidly, engine failed to start, isolated ground was open, top push button engaged, engine would start, but tach indicated interference. 

 

In my initial thought on the initial tach issue I was thinking a bad ignition switch, but since finding that the tach sensor ground wouldn’t work, it points to somewhere in the loom or on an engine connection in my mind.  Opening the wiring loom on the engine would be a big job for me, if it were in the loom from the engine to the helm, that would be another matter entirely.  Jumping the ground to get the tach working was too easy.  Obviously, there is a larger problem.  What do you think the likelihood of the ground short being in the engine wiring loom?  Could it be a bad sensor or relay in the same circuit?  Does a wiring diagram of this motor with the isolated ground shown exist?