Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Failed outhaul

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Hello Ben,
I just read you found the cause! Glad it was so simple!
Was super nice to meet you , Gayle and Erin!

Sincerely, Alexandre



--------------------------------------------

On Thu, 4/6/17, Ben Driver/YAHOO joedoakes66@yahoo.com [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Failed outhaul
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Thursday, April 6, 2017, 8:01 AM


 









Hi Alex,It turned out to be a
simple fix.  I just needed to reset breaker in port bow
locker. Noise you and Steve heard was from main furler
gearbox which - over the years - had leaked out most of its
grease.  I opened it, cleaned it, and repacked with fresh
grease and noise went away.  
Now I wonder what will
require repair today😎

Ben

Ben and GayleS/V
La Bella VitaSM #347
Sent
from my iPad
On Apr 6,
2017, at 7:28 AM, Alexandre Uster von Baar uster@rocketmail.com
[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
wrote:
















 






Good morning Ben & Gayle,



Sorry to hear about your trouble.

If you remember when Steve and I went on your boat, we both
said something was making lots of noice, much more than on
our boats.

Could be something with the transmission attached to the
motor, I would start there.



Sincerely, Alexandre

SM2K #289 NIKIMAT

Island Water World Marina, Sint Maarten, NA



--------------------------------------------

On Wed, 4/5/17, joedoakes66@yahoo.com
[amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
wrote:



Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Failed outhaul

To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com

Date: Wednesday, April 5, 2017, 6:14 PM





 



















Gentlemen,Yesterday my

main outhaul stuck with a fully opened mainsail.  In
order

to roll sail up I was forced to disconnect line from
outhaul

hub.  So far I cannot determine whether gearbox is
jammed,

motor failed or solenoid failed.  System failed with
fully

open main after several minutes  of outhaul use in order
to

fully unfurl main.

I did

replace motor brushes and liberally sprayed motor witn

contact cleaner to no avail.  Only symtopm - other than

imobile shaft - is clicking sound coming from forward
head

which I assume to be solenoid.  From my youthful auto

experience I would diagnose this as bad solenoid.  Has

anyone else had such a failure?  Was solenoid the
culprit?

 

ThanksBen

Ben and GayleLa Bella

VitaSM 347Virgin Gorda


Re: Negative ground slave solenoid

James Sterling
 

Got it thanks.  The file Bill mentioned is on the isolated ground wiring diagram is missing.  It may be somewhere else.  However, I've isolated the problem.  All save one (generator side) of the mystery wires in the engine compartment have been dealt with and eliminated.The stop solenoid lead has diodes in it that were evidently cut away.  Disconnecting that lead and the entire problem goes away and both generator and engine run happily and the interrupt in the Valeo solenoid (chatter of ground interrupt) stops.  If anyone has the type and specs for the diodes in the stop solenoid lead, it would be much appreciated. 

James Sterling

S/V Longbow SM2K #418


Re: rigg of santorin when should it be changed?

Craig Briggs
 

Hi Christoph,
    I see Bill R also replied at the same time as I did. If you do not want to do this yourself for about 5000 Euro with original quality from ACMO, there is, indeed, an excellent rigger in Sicily who could do the installation for you. He is Franco Catania (Francesco) and he has an excellent reputation working on many Gran Prix race boats throughout the Med. He fixed our broken stay which kept us going until we got the entire new rig from ACMO. I'd recommend him highly. He's located in the NE corner of Catania Harbor.  
    He could certainly fabricate the rigging himself, if that's what you choose, but it would be far better (and likely much less expensive) to simply have ACMO ship the material to you and have Franco install it.
Cheers,
Craig Briggs, SN#68, Sangaris


Re: rigg of santorin when should it be changed?

Craig Briggs
 

Hi Christoph,
     Adding to Ian and Bill K's good advice, what year is your Santorin and is the rigging original? Just wondering if it may be a bit more than 20 years. You'll also want to consider what kind of sailing you'll be doing. Day saying in the Med obviously being less risky than an ocean passage, although 20 or more years is beyond my comfort level. What motivated us to replace our rigging was having a mizzen forward lower stay break while sailing off Catania, Sicily. The rig was 18 years old.
     Regarding price, you can compare your 10000 Euro quote from Turkey with 4851 Euros we paid to Acmo for our Santorin rigging, including shipping to Italy, all new turnbuckles etc. I'd guess the Turkey quote included labor and Acmo was material only. Using Acmo has the advantage that they made your original rigging and therefore know the exact specs and provide factory swaged stays that only need to be put up - no field cutting and swaging to get the lengths right. They also supply the "special" short turnbuckle for the headstay, 
     The only change we made from the original specification was to use standard right-hand turnbuckles rather than the left-handed ones Amel originally specified which would have added about 1000 Euros to the cost. Nobody has ever explained why Amel used left-handed turnbuckles.
     Katherine and I did all the work ourselves with the mast up. Took a week doing 2 or 3 stays a day - not difficult and you will know it's done right (or, I suppose, have nobody to blame but yourself :-)
Cheers,
Craig and Katherine, SN#68 Sangaris
 


---In amelyachtowners@..., <greatketch@...> wrote :

Twenty year old rigging is old.  I, personally, would not cross an ocean with it--no matter how good it looked.  Here is why.

Stainless steel rigging does not typically fail because of visible corrosion, assuming that good quality 316 or 316L wire was used.  The failure mode is much more insidious because you can not see it happening.  The rigger who looks, no matter how closely, at old rigging and pronounces it "good for another 15 years" does NOT know what he is talking about.

In the language of the metallurgist to "work" a metal is to bend or stretch it.  When you "work" the kinds of stainless steel that are used in rigging the metal hardens.  As it hardens it also gets brittle and weaker. Think about bending a stiff piece of wire back and forth.  It bends, it bends, it bends, it breaks. Nothing visible happens. until the strands of the wire start to break.

Now, a well tuned sailboat rig (i.e., nice tight wires) doesn't "work" its wires a much, but it does work them. "Work" happens every time they stretch a little tiny bit in strong winds, or in the shock load imposed by hitting a big wave.

In addition to work hardening, there is also crevice corrosion to worry about.  It also happens even to the best stainless when chloride is around.  Without a detailed dye test (preferably magnaflux) it can be very hard to see, if it is visible at all.  This happens faster in saltier water (I.e., The Med), and warmer temperatures (i.e., everywhere we like to sail!)

The problem with any recommendation on this subject is that it is an odds game.  The chances of 5 year old rigging that has been in a well tuned rig failing due to work-hardening or crevice corrosion are near zero. The odds of a 30 year old rig being significantly weaker than designed is very high.  

You have to draw the line somewhere.  A conservative number is 15 years, based on the opinions of lots of people whose opinion I trust.  Is it conservative?  For most boats, under most condidtions--yes.  But in the middle of the ocean, I am a very conservative guy.

When I worked for a charter company with boats that were sailed in strong winds a LOT, we changed small boat rigging every five years, and big boat rigging every seven.  

Bill Kinney
SM#160 Harmonie
Ponce, P.R.


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] rigg of santorin when should it be changed?

Bill & Judy Rouse <yahoogroups@...>
 

Christoph,

So, which rigger was correct? The one that gave you the answer you wanted to hear?

I am not sure that there is a rigger in Sicily that is experienced​ enough to be trusted with an Amel, but there is one in Malta. Let me know if you want that contact. 

20 year old rigging should be replaced and when replaced, it should be replaced with quality stainless steel, it will cost 10,000 euro for a Super Maramu. If it is significantly less, you will likely have another problem. 

Be safe.


CW Bill Rouse
Admiral, Texas Navy
Commander Emeritus
Galveston Island
Sent using Google Fi
+1(832) 380-4970

   

On Apr 6, 2017 05:19, "christoph.kasper@... [amelyachtowners]" <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

hi

staying in Turkey ölast year  the guys there told me that the meanwhile twenty year old rigg is broken and should be changed. costs: 10000.- Euro !!!!!!!

now I checked the rigg in Sicily - no damage found, no rost -   the rigger was impressed because of the quality.

He told me to do the following repairs:  nothing!!  :-)


what is your experience - after twenty years- change or not?


thank you all for your ideas...

Christoph






Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Failed outhaul

Ben and Gayle Super Maramu #347
 

Hi Alex,
It turned out to be a simple fix.  I just needed to reset breaker in port bow locker. Noise you and Steve heard was from main furler gearbox which - over the years - had leaked out most of its grease.  I opened it, cleaned it, and repacked with fresh grease and noise went away.  

Now I wonder what will require repair today😎

Ben

Ben and Gayle
S/V La Bella Vita
SM #347

On Apr 6, 2017, at 7:28 AM, Alexandre Uster von Baar uster@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Good morning Ben & Gayle,

Sorry to hear about your trouble.
If you remember when Steve and I went on your boat, we both said something was making lots of noice, much more than on our boats.
Could be something with the transmission attached to the motor, I would start there.

Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Island Water World Marina, Sint Maarten, NA

--------------------------------------------
On Wed, 4/5/17, joedoakes66@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Failed outhaul
To: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Wednesday, April 5, 2017, 6:14 PM


 









Gentlemen,Yesterday my
main outhaul stuck with a fully opened mainsail.  In order
to roll sail up I was forced to disconnect line from outhaul
hub.  So far I cannot determine whether gearbox is jammed,
motor failed or solenoid failed.  System failed with fully
open main after several minutes  of outhaul use in order to
fully unfurl main.
I did
replace motor brushes and liberally sprayed motor witn
contact cleaner to no avail.  Only symtopm - other than
imobile shaft - is clicking sound coming from forward head
which I assume to be solenoid.  From my youthful auto
experience I would diagnose this as bad solenoid.  Has
anyone else had such a failure?  Was solenoid the culprit?
 
ThanksBen
Ben and GayleLa Bella
VitaSM 347Virgin Gorda 




Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Failed outhaul

Ben and Gayle Super Maramu #347
 

Thanks to all for recommended solutions.  I did not know there was a breaker for outhaul forward on port side; I erroneously thought this was for anchor windlass and jib furler only.  Turns out it was the breaker and an easy fix; that is, after pulling motor cover and replacing brushes.  I had forgotten the law Occam's Razor:  "The simplest explanation for some phenomenon is more likely to be accurate than more complicated explanations."  However, there was some positive in opening motor; I found original brushes were near new with little wear and motor was clean and dry.  All good.  

And Bill R, your point is well taken on using contact cleaner. Although mine was "totally evaporating" type, it could leave a conducting residue.   Maybe better to use Corrosion X.  

Ben Driver
S/V La Bella Vita
SM #347

On Apr 6, 2017, at 1:55 AM, divanz620@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:

 

Hi Ben,

As per other advice check the breaker in the port side fwd cabin cupboard, that's the most common cause of the outhaul motor not running, especially if you've been driving it hard as you say.
I know of one solenoid failure on an SM and I have a spare just in case.
We had a problem with the outhaul motor not running and it turned out to be a bad solder joint where the cable joins the brush carrier in the motor, Seems someone in the past had "repaired" this motor but not done a good soldering job. I cleaned it all up and silver soldered it and it's been good ever since.
Corrosion X is the best thing to use on your brushes and commutator.
I would never use WD40 for anything on a boat..its a solvent, and while it has initial water displacement properties, when it dries out it becomes hydrophilic (attracts water) which is exactly what you don't want.
You can prove this to yourself by cleaning a steel tool and spraying with WD40. Come back in a few months and it will be rusty.
Good luck solving the problem.
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437    


Re: Caribbean surveyors

Alan Grayson
 

Thanks everyone for the replies, seems there is a consensus the Olivier is the man followed by Dave Huffman. I will look over the boat first. If we like it I will try and get Olivier to come over.
Regards
Alan


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Failed outhaul

Alexandre Uster von Baar
 

Good morning Ben & Gayle,

Sorry to hear about your trouble.
If you remember when Steve and I went on your boat, we both said something was making lots of noice, much more than on our boats.
Could be something with the transmission attached to the motor, I would start there.

Sincerely, Alexandre
SM2K #289 NIKIMAT
Island Water World Marina, Sint Maarten, NA



--------------------------------------------

On Wed, 4/5/17, joedoakes66@yahoo.com [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Failed outhaul
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Wednesday, April 5, 2017, 6:14 PM


 









Gentlemen,Yesterday my
main outhaul stuck with a fully opened mainsail.  In order
to roll sail up I was forced to disconnect line from outhaul
hub.  So far I cannot determine whether gearbox is jammed,
motor failed or solenoid failed.  System failed with fully
open main after several minutes  of outhaul use in order to
fully unfurl main.
I did
replace motor brushes and liberally sprayed motor witn
contact cleaner to no avail.  Only symtopm - other than
imobile shaft - is clicking sound coming from forward head
which I assume to be solenoid.  From my youthful auto
experience I would diagnose this as bad solenoid.  Has
anyone else had such a failure?  Was solenoid the culprit?
 
ThanksBen
Ben and GayleLa Bella
VitaSM 347Virgin Gorda


Re: rigg of santorin when should it be changed?

greatketch@...
 

Twenty year old rigging is old.  I, personally, would not cross an ocean with it--no matter how good it looked.  Here is why.

Stainless steel rigging does not typically fail because of visible corrosion, assuming that good quality 316 or 316L wire was used.  The failure mode is much more insidious because you can not see it happening.  The rigger who looks, no matter how closely, at old rigging and pronounces it "good for another 15 years" does NOT know what he is talking about.

In the language of the metallurgist to "work" a metal is to bend or stretch it.  When you "work" the kinds of stainless steel that are used in rigging the metal hardens.  As it hardens it also gets brittle and weaker. Think about bending a stiff piece of wire back and forth.  It bends, it bends, it bends, it breaks. Nothing visible happens. until the strands of the wire start to break.

Now, a well tuned sailboat rig (i.e., nice tight wires) doesn't "work" its wires a much, but it does work them. "Work" happens every time they stretch a little tiny bit in strong winds, or in the shock load imposed by hitting a big wave.

In addition to work hardening, there is also crevice corrosion to worry about.  It also happens even to the best stainless when chloride is around.  Without a detailed dye test (preferably magnaflux) it can be very hard to see, if it is visible at all.  This happens faster in saltier water (I.e., The Med), and warmer temperatures (i.e., everywhere we like to sail!)

The problem with any recommendation on this subject is that it is an odds game.  The chances of 5 year old rigging that has been in a well tuned rig failing due to work-hardening or crevice corrosion are near zero. The odds of a 30 year old rig being significantly weaker than designed is very high.  

You have to draw the line somewhere.  A conservative number is 15 years, based on the opinions of lots of people whose opinion I trust.  Is it conservative?  For most boats, under most condidtions--yes.  But in the middle of the ocean, I am a very conservative guy.

When I worked for a charter company with boats that were sailed in strong winds a LOT, we changed small boat rigging every five years, and big boat rigging every seven.  

Bill Kinney
SM#160 Harmonie
Ponce, P.R.


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] rigg of santorin when should it be changed?

ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 

Hi Christoph,


 Your insurers will probably tell you that a 20 year old rig should be changed.  When I asked the question of Olivier Beaute, whose knowledge of Amels is second to none, he advised a change after 30,000 miles.

 We had done 60,000 miles at the time, in 16 years.

 When we took our old rigging off it looked fine, but I am glad to have rerigged.   Do bear in mind the comments previously made by Joel Potter that in all his years representing Amel he has never come across a rigger who could properly rig an Amel first time. We came back from Greece to have Pen Azen rerigged in Hyeres by Xvoiles, on the recommendation of Amel. They really understand an Amel rig. You would be amazed at just how much tension they put into it. Two guys worked together to tighten the fore and aft stay.

 They took both masts off the boat, checked them thoroughly, and we are delighted with their work.


 Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302 St Mandrier, France


From: amelyachtowners@... on behalf of christoph.kasper@... [amelyachtowners]
Sent: 06 April 2017 10:19:04
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] rigg of santorin when should it be changed?
 

hi

staying in Turkey ölast year  the guys there told me that the meanwhile twenty year old rigg is broken and should be changed. costs: 10000.- Euro !!!!!!!

now I checked the rigg in Sicily - no damage found, no rost -   the rigger was impressed because of the quality.

He told me to do the following repairs:  nothing!!  :-)


what is your experience - after twenty years- change or not?


thank you all for your ideas...

Christoph





rigg of santorin when should it be changed?

christoph.kasper@...
 

hi

staying in Turkey ölast year  the guys there told me that the meanwhile twenty year old rigg is broken and should be changed. costs: 10000.- Euro !!!!!!!

now I checked the rigg in Sicily - no damage found, no rost -   the rigger was impressed because of the quality.

He told me to do the following repairs:  nothing!!  :-)


what is your experience - after twenty years- change or not?


thank you all for your ideas...

Christoph





Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Gap behind the sofa

Ann-Sofie Svanberg <kanalmamman@...>
 

Hi Rafael!
Congratulations to your SuperMaramu!

Those "holes" are to maximate the air flow to freezer/fridge and AC compressors Somit is not a very good idea to close them.
Things you drop ther can be accessed if you lift the cochon and the sofa seat up. In the same way you acces the AC and the compressors.

Regards
Ann-Sofie
S/Y Lady Annila, SM232, 1998

Skickat från min iPad

5 apr. 2017 kl. 20:54 skrev rcavie <no_reply@...>:

 

Hello

In the rounded corners behind the sofa of ASM 2k, there is a gap on each side towards port, one towards the bow and another towards the stern, which reaches the floor but is unreachable to clean or pick something dropped. Anyone have any ideas how to take advantage of that space or close it?


Rafael

AMEL SM2K 246



Re: Failed outhaul

Alan Leslie
 

Hi Ben,
As per other advice check the breaker in the port side fwd cabin cupboard, that's the most common cause of the outhaul motor not running, especially if you've been driving it hard as you say.
I know of one solenoid failure on an SM and I have a spare just in case.
We had a problem with the outhaul motor not running and it turned out to be a bad solder joint where the cable joins the brush carrier in the motor, Seems someone in the past had "repaired" this motor but not done a good soldering job. I cleaned it all up and silver soldered it and it's been good ever since.
Corrosion X is the best thing to use on your brushes and commutator.
I would never use WD40 for anything on a boat..its a solvent, and while it has initial water displacement properties, when it dries out it becomes hydrophilic (attracts water) which is exactly what you don't want.
You can prove this to yourself by cleaning a steel tool and spraying with WD40. Come back in a few months and it will be rusty.
Good luck solving the problem.
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437    


Re: Problematic Mainsail Furling in mid 80s Maramu/Sharki models

Alejandro Paquin
 

We purchased an older Maramu, hull#94, 1981, which came with a Bamar aftermarket roller furler behind the Amel Isomat Mast. This system had two major breakdowns, once the thermoplastic connectors used to connect the three pieces of the shaft that turns inside the system broke (due to the torque involved, we replaced with nylon), and a second time, the top swivel fell apart and had to be rebuilt (it is difficult to maintain since it inside the tube). The original Amel mainsail with slides can be installed on the outside of this furling system.I always carry it onboard. It is not electrical and we use an electric winch installed in the cockpit to operate this unit. It is comfortable BUT and Benjamin says the shape of the sail leaves much to be desired.
Alex Paquin
SIMPATICO


Re: Caribbean surveyors

John Clark
 

Hi Alan, I used Dave Huffman and was totally pleased. I "expanded" his duties to include being buyers agent...he was great.

All that said if Olivier is available and you want to fly him in...he is perhaps more an Amel expert. I had engaged him for an Amel purchase in Portugal that never completed. Either man would be good . Dave is cocientiuos and thorough too...

Good luck with purchase.

P.S. Bill Rouse is also someone that you should talk to and mighy be able to help you.

John Clark
SV Vent de Soleil
SM37. Sint Maarten


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Failed outhaul

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Ben,
The clicking sound from the solenoid does not indicate a faulty solenoid. As Bill said the breaker in the forward cabin port upper locker is a possible culprit. Or brushes, or any failure that interrupts the electrical supply from the solenoid to the motor. As to furling without the motor. remove the bolt that screws down through the short arm on top of the drive pulley. This releases the pulley from the drive motor. It is possible to jury rig an outhaul rope to the end of the boom to keep you going. Agree with Bill about corrosion X. (best) WD 40 works too, or in NZ CRC 5.56.
Danny
SM 299 Ocean Pearl



From: "joedoakes66@... [amelyachtowners]" To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Thursday, 6 April 2017 11:14 AM
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Failed outhaul

 
Gentlemen,
Yesterday my main outhaul stuck with a fully opened mainsail.  In order to roll sail up I was forced to disconnect line from outhaul hub.  So far I cannot determine whether gearbox is jammed, motor failed or solenoid failed.  System failed with fully open main after several minutes  of outhaul use in order to fully unfurl main.

I did replace motor brushes and liberally sprayed motor witn contact cleaner to no avail.  Only symtopm - other than imobile shaft - is clicking sound coming from forward head which I assume to be solenoid.  From my youthful auto experience I would diagnose this as bad solenoid.  Has anyone else had such a failure?  Was solenoid the culprit?  

Thanks
Ben

Ben and Gayle
La Bella Vita
SM 347
Virgin Gorda 



Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Gap behind the sofa

Alan Leslie
 

Similarly, I made two wood panels to cover those holes, forward one is solid, aft one with lots of small holes drilled in it for ventilation.....and now things don't disappear into the black holes anymore !
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Failed outhaul

steve_morrison@...
 

Maud just sent me two new motors for our outhaul and main mast furler and they were roughly 750 euros each.  They are Leroy Somer MBT82M where my originals were MBT86M.  They seem to have the same specs, but are physically smaller and lack the easy access brush caps of the original such that the brush assembly must be removed to access or change them.  I have to find someone that can mill plastic so that I can machine a new collar that goes between the motor and gear box and to which the white plastic shell clamps.  Hope that may be helpful if you look towards replacing the motor.

Steve Morrison
sm380 TouRai
Brunswick, Georgia
  


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Failed outhaul

Steve Morrison <steve_morrison@...>
 

Maud just sent me two new motors for our outhaul and main mast furler and they were roughly 750 euros each.  They are Leroy Somer MBT82M where my originals were MBT86M.  They seem to have the same specs, but are physically smaller and lack the easy access brush caps of the original such that the brush assembly must be removed to access or change them.  I have to find someone hat can mill plastic to that I can machine a new collar that goes between the motor and gear box and to which the white plastic shell clamps.  Hope that may be helpful if you look towards replacing the motor.

Steve Morrison
sm380 TouRai
Brunswick, Georgia
  

On 5 April 2017, at 7:26 PM, 'Bill & Judy Rouse' yahoogroups@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:


Ben,

Normally the first time this happens to an Amel owner it is the breaker in the forward cabinet port side, V Berth.

Have you checked that?

The electromagnetic switches (solenoids) for the Main Mast Furling are very heavy duty in the Super Maramu and I believe may NEVER fail. It is located behind a Velcro'd panel in the forward shower.

If it is not the breaker, my guess is it is the motor or jammed gearbox. 

You said that you "replaced motor brushes and liberally sprayed motor with contact cleaner to no avail." I would not do that because most of the "contact cleaner" I know of is conductive, and if you liberally sprayed the motor with conductive material, I think you know what happens. For this reason, I always recommend only CorrosionX because CorrosionX is non-conductive, but it increases the conductivity between contacts. There is a difference.

You may want to get SAV at Amel to send you an outhaul motor, or maybe there is an Amel nearby who happens to have a spare.

Best,

Bill
X-BeBe




On Wed, Apr 5, 2017 at 6:14 PM, joedoakes66@... [amelyachtowners] <amelyachtowners@...> wrote:
 

Gentlemen,

Yesterday my main outhaul stuck with a fully opened mainsail.  In order to roll sail up I was forced to disconnect line from outhaul hub.  So far I cannot determine whether gearbox is jammed, motor failed or solenoid failed.  System failed with fully open main after several minutes  of outhaul use in order to fully unfurl main.


I did replace motor brushes and liberally sprayed motor witn contact cleaner to no avail.  Only symtopm - other than imobile shaft - is clicking sound coming from forward head which I assume to be solenoid.  From my youthful auto experience I would diagnose this as bad solenoid.  Has anyone else had such a failure?  Was solenoid the culprit?  


Thanks

Ben


Ben and Gayle

La Bella Vita

SM 347

Virgin Gorda